Hi, there's a good question. My thoughts are that it takes water for rust and the brake fluid is now new so it will take time for that to get back into the caliper, and maybe in the near future we won't be able to afford to run such cars. The fuel and road tax will continue to rise in an attempt to put these older cars off the road. So no point buying new pistons or calipers if these don't leak, cheers
I just spotted a repair kit including the piston and seals on eBay for £18.69 so if it causes problems 'further down the road' :-) then it should be a cheap(ish) fix. Thanks for the vid, it gives me the confidence to have a go when I need to.
@@davidbrodie5044 Hi, yes that's an option. When investigating it's not always practical to have the bits in stock. It could have been that the caliper body had huge rust pits, but it didn't seem to be leaking, cheers
@@TheInfoworks I think you mentioned having older cars in the past therefore you may be open to owning an older vehicle again. With this in mind one could purchase a 40+ year old Mercedes Diesel, which having historical vehicle status is exempt from ULEZ/Clean Air Rubbish while having the ability to run on vegetable oil. Without fossil fuels, how else could you cut & move logs.
@@sim6699 Yes I understand the logic and I now need an automatic. I don't mind spannering to some degree but I've definitely had my fill of car welding. For my job it's also the auto 4 x 4 that's important. cheers
Perhaps on a more useful note, I have done that trick that you warned of, striping a bolt head using bi-hex. So badly stripped that even a hex couldn't get a grip. My solution was to clean it (could have done that first) then cut the top of a socket back a few mm so the internal chamfer is removed, if you can get it to seat right and there is a bit of the hex bolt head remaining then there is a chance of getting it off. But you have to sacrifice a socket.
@@bootsowen Owen, bi-hex have their place but hex for anything that is real tight. Yes removing the taper on the socket at least helps. I wonder why they put the taper there? cheers
@@bootsowen and we thank them for it, ever had that when you push the pedal and nothing happens? time for the hand brake that you thankfully serviced, cheers
Now there in Australia.happy to see you.
I was always under impression a rusty piston needed replacement due to the chrome finish degraded, it will quickly rust again?
Hi, there's a good question. My thoughts are that it takes water for rust and the brake fluid is now new so it will take time for that to get back into the caliper, and maybe in the near future we won't be able to afford to run such cars. The fuel and road tax will continue to rise in an attempt to put these older cars off the road. So no point buying new pistons or calipers if these don't leak, cheers
I just spotted a repair kit including the piston and seals on eBay for £18.69 so if it causes problems 'further down the road' :-) then it should be a cheap(ish) fix. Thanks for the vid, it gives me the confidence to have a go when I need to.
@@davidbrodie5044 Hi, yes that's an option. When investigating it's not always practical to have the bits in stock. It could have been that the caliper body had huge rust pits, but it didn't seem to be leaking, cheers
@@TheInfoworks I think you mentioned having older cars in the past therefore you may be open to owning an older vehicle again. With this in mind one could purchase a 40+ year old Mercedes Diesel, which having historical vehicle status is exempt from ULEZ/Clean Air Rubbish while having the ability to run on vegetable oil.
Without fossil fuels, how else could you cut & move logs.
@@sim6699 Yes I understand the logic and I now need an automatic. I don't mind spannering to some degree but I've definitely had my fill of car welding. For my job it's also the auto 4 x 4 that's important. cheers
Well done Andy !
Thanks and now a new MOT, cheers
What is wet and dry? Great vid thanks
Hi, a strong, fine abrasive paper that can be used dry or wet. It comes in many different grades, cheers
I knew the Jeff Bradshaw was coming out when you slapped the Truck at the start!
Owen, this old truck, just added a link to the 389 series, cheers
@@TheInfoworks I think it's fair to say that brakes only slow you down!
Perhaps on a more useful note, I have done that trick that you warned of, striping a bolt head using bi-hex. So badly stripped that even a hex couldn't get a grip. My solution was to clean it (could have done that first) then cut the top of a socket back a few mm so the internal chamfer is removed, if you can get it to seat right and there is a bit of the hex bolt head remaining then there is a chance of getting it off. But you have to sacrifice a socket.
@@bootsowen Owen, bi-hex have their place but hex for anything that is real tight. Yes removing the taper on the socket at least helps. I wonder why they put the taper there? cheers
@@bootsowen and we thank them for it, ever had that when you push the pedal and nothing happens? time for the hand brake that you thankfully serviced, cheers
interesting that rubber grease is compatible with all the brake fluids im aware of.
Hi, it's the lube for rubber seals and I figured a small sample to help corrosion and to help with the refit would be just the job, cheers
Can I do the front ones tye same way
I assume so but be careful the front are more important, bad scene if the front are seized, cheers