This is the mechanic you need. Someone who knows engines from inside out no matter what you give him. A humble person, with a sea of knowledge with bare bones attitude of zero drama and all old skool wisdom and logic.
@@Tirah5 dude I completely agree. I watch one other video of his and I like his attitude. He’s not like the others at all. He’s right to it with little jokes but man he’s smart
31:52 - The 'Special' on the Cylinder head refers to it being checked and machined to be a Higher Accuracy for the mating surface and bore centerline, to prevent the cylinders moving about as described a few seconds earlier. Functionally, there is no difference in design, and they are interchangeable. The complete set of Cylinder heads for Slants, are the 'Early', 'Early Special', 'Late' (with the cast cranks) and the 'Pacer' out of Australia, with different ports and combustion chambers. Early, Special and Pacer are all interchangeable. There are also three known examples of the Aluminium Cast cylinder head to escape the prototyping recycle bin, that were never released to the public or put on engines sold by Chyrsler. Doug Dutra had two, one of which he and Steve Magente put on an Aluminium block in a special two door Valiant they built up for a Hot Rod magazine article, along with Alloy bell housing, Diff covers, and IIRC, a four speed OD manual and a Clifford Performance reproduction HyperPak manifold. That Alloy block looks to be in restorable condition, most are not thanks to people not using the correct MoPar Coolant. If that is that bodies original engine, it should be rebuilt as OEM spec and kept with the car as a talking peice.
It was my understanding that the head for the aluminum engine was useable on the cast iron block but the head from a cast iron engine was more likely to leak at the head gasket on an aluminum engine due to the lack of the "undercut" in the lifter gallery area - which allowed a higher per square inch pressure on the gasket in the aluminum engine. The details that were very important on the alloy engines made building them a LOT fiddlier than building an iron engine. Iron engines sealed a LOT easier and were much more tolerant of overheating.
@@Arthagnou He'd have more then just one builds needs. He's been selling some of his collection recently to cover medical costs. The car they built for Hot Rod, with all those Alloy parts, was sold to a bloke in Queensland and shipped DownUnder
Wait. There were aluminum heads made, but it didn't go beyond the prototype stage? With many people choosing to build the old six cylinder engines, like the Slant Six and the Ford 300, having aftermarket cylinder heads with improvements over the factory ones would be something for a niche but surely sizable market. I mean, Edelbrock has an aluminum head for the Jeep straight six. They outperform the stock heads and have a weight saving. Many have figured out that many factory cranks and blocks can easily handle boost when paired with aftermarket pistons and rods.
Dont forget the truck slant 6. Less compression, different cam etc. governer. Used in trucks until at least 70 here. That did have forged cranks. Not many here in Oz ever did. Pacers were about 10 hp and a few more useable revs than a 160hp
Back when I was a teen in the late 60's I purchased a 1962 Dodge Lancer. It ran great but being a teenager I wanted more power so I pulled the engine and had it bored 100 over and the heads milled 100 under with bigger intake valves. I put in a 3/4 race cam (that's what they called them) bought a set of headers and a "two 1-barrel style" manifold. I went to Pep Boys and bought two generic 2-barrel carburetors and 2-to-1 barrel carb adapter from JC Whitney. I used a 6-volt coil (hotter spark) and solid core wires. It was for sure a "sleeper" for stop-light drags. I have no idea what the horsepower was but I blew so many rear-ends that eventually I had to use a junkyard V-8 rear end out of a different Dodge. It was a very fun car to drive and handled surprising well. I eventually sold it to go on a trip.
Watching all of your countless videos on rebuilding engines gave me the confidence to build my own, it is honestly the most rewarding feeling ever. Turning it over for the first time gave me chills. Can't thank you guys enough, as you always say: get into your shop and get some work done!
Yup! Few people remember that antifreeze contained silica! The common cause of water pump failures back then. And since these aluminum engines were 'die cast' using permanent steel molds and cores (instead of sand cast) it's unlikely that was the source of the sand.
@@nathan.kostelecky These blocks were die cast, as described in various magazines back then, such as 'Car Life' May 1961. If sand based cores were used, the blocks could have used the closed deck design and the conventional core plugs (often miscalled freeze plugs) to facilitate the sand removal. These die casting machines were huge and also had to hold the previously made, cast iron, cylinder liners in place during the aluminum casting process.
we used to talk about how to build one of these aluminum slant 6's back in the 70's we came to the conclusion it can be done but only if you have a 1/2 to 3/4 in aluminum plate cut to fit in the water jacket . it has 2 jobs it keeps the cylinders in alignment when you have the block milled down and decked and it helps to keep everything solid if you put more power to the engine . back then it was if you wanted to build it for racing and planned to supercharge it you would need to have a way to keep the compression in and not have the cylinders moving under the head breaking the seal under compression. it was all theoretical shop talk but it can and would work if you needed a light weight 6 cylinder in a drag car and didn't want the cylinders snapping of in the block under power.
I had a customer that owned a 1967 slant six. He was so proud of it because there was an after market toilet paper oil filter externally. He would change it every month. I can't remember his oil change intervals. Engine was super clean. Somewhere near 400,000 miles the oil sending unit broke off and lost all the oil and the engine.
Second engine I ever helped my dad rebuild was a 1960 225 CID Slant Six in a 1960 Dodge Senica Station Wagon. We did a quick and dirty, only honing the cylinders and used a Piston Expander made by Seal Power to tighten up the slop. New rings were installed and we (I) beat the heck out of that engine like any good 16 year old boy would do. We drove it over 50,000 additional miles before I went into the Navy in 69 and dad sold the car a couple of years after that. It was still running and he got $50.00 for it.
Yes sir the first engine I helped my father on was the slant six out of a 61 Valiant. What you have described is referred to as an overhaul which was frequently done on engines back in the day. Generally an overhaul was rings and bearings and a valve job along with any other repair needed. Most vehicles up into the mid to late sixties could be in framed and you did not have to remove the engine. My dad was born in 1923 and coming up he did a lot of valve jobs and ring jobs on engines as this was common place.
I'd like to add some added context on cast aluminum blocks. High pressure die cast (HPDC) blocks are still relatively common in the present day, though they're more common from Asian auto makers and particularly in lower power applications. The reasoning for that is twofold, David covered the structural issues of the open deck design (open deck is required to form the water jacket with the steel die) and the second reason is that they're generally made of lower strength aluminum (higher iron content and less effective heat treatment). Modern closed deck aluminum blocks are cast using what is called a "precision sand" process. The blocks are cast inside a package assembled from a number of cores, this allows the molten aluminum to flow between the water jacket and head deck to form the closed deck for increased rigidity. Precision sand aluminum blocks use iron liners, just like HPDC blocks, but generally use chills that are removed after casting to rapidly cool the aluminum in the main cap bulkheads and other highly stressed areas (when applicable) instead of overcasting steel inserts in those locations. The very best precision sand aluminum blocks are cast in what is called the "Cosworth process." These blocks begin the casting process inverted so that the package can be filled smoothly (called counter-gravity), with minimal turbulence of the molten aluminum. This is important because molten aluminum is highly reactive to oxygen and aluminum oxide films create discontinuities within the blocks that may initiate cracks.
Davin, I think that attachment on the oil drain plug is something that was sold in the J C Whitney catalogs as an acid neutralizer for the oil. Almost like an anode rod for your oil.
When i was a kid, my mom had a 63 Dodge Dart GT with a 225 slant 6. It had the push button automatic transmission. It sat for 5 years, we added fresh fuel and it started right up. I remember my father saying that those engines were indestructible and they were built too good. I think Davin is one of the best mechanics on UA-cam. He's salty, funny, and tells it like it is. They should consider adding a turbo because those engines can handle lots of boost. A sleeper wagon 😃
David is the only mechanic that I watch on Hagerty. In fact, he's the only one I watch on Hagerty. The rest of them I have no intention watching They're boring. This guy is great.
David the heads are basically the same between the aluminum and cast iron blocks. The difference is the head has to match the cylinder sleeves precisely on the aluminum block, or the head gasket would fail quickly. Chrysler put extra quality control steps in the process to make sure the heads would fit the block correctly.
Worked for Chrysler tor a few years in the late 60s and early 70s my understanding is that the heads were the same the heads could go from Aluminum to the Cast Iron BUT yon could not go the other way and in general unless they were over heated there was no problem
Yup, early heads are the same. Later heads that changed at the same time the crank was changed to cast, are different. There's also a variation of the early head used on the Aussie "Pacer" spec Slants - they're rare and you can get the same improvements with a mild porting on a stock head.
I'm glad that the two engines will get a new lease in life. The aluminum block Slant Six is worthy of getting a refresh and made some mild upgrades that won't overwhelm the integrity of the block. A definite piece of history to preserve. The iron block Slant Six is definitely the candidate for performance upgrades, with considerable aftermarket support behind it. These and other straight six engines are getting a following, with a considerable aftermarket support to increase their performance. They have been proven to handle boost with the right combination of parts on the stock forged crankshafts. It would be great if the Slant Six and the Ford 300 were to get aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads, like Edelbrock has done with the Jeep straight six.
As long as the "A body" was going to be a real "compact" and have but six-bangers under the hood, an aluminum Slanty made perfect sense, even for the "Hyper Pak" option. It's a funny thing...the 225 Six was also the base engine for FULL-SIZE Dodges and Plymouths, but Chryslers had stopped offering a Six (the old Flathead) after the 1954 model year. They had only V8s, and after 1958, only the "B" block engines. DeSoto was on its way out by 1960, and also had only V8 engines, I believe they were the 326 Poly "A" engine and the 361 "B" Wedge. An aluminum engine in a full-sized car weighing over 4000 lbs made no sense at all. Also, the casting tech for aluminum blocks and heads was still a work in progress so it was better to have an iron engine in production in case things didn't go right. Curiously enough, although for 1962, with DeSoto gone, and Chrysler and Imperial had quite large body-on-frame full-sized cars, Dodge and Plymouth, seeing what was mistakenly though to be a trend towards smaller cars (about 15 years too early), came in the "B" bodies as their largest offerings. Though the 1962-1964 "full sized", B-Body Dodges and Plymouths included some quite fine cars, they fared poorly in the marketplace. Also, the "suits" at Mopar, like their competitors, put an end to "performance" fours and sixes, as well as European-style powerplants like the air-cooled Corvair Six, which was scaled back a LOT in favor of the Chevy II, or "Nova". This made the aluminum slanty pointless, as the now-compact Darts and Valiants were but entry-level, compact offerings, and reliability, rather than performance, was their selling point. Of course, the "Hyper Pak" had to go also, as the "suits" wanted the new LA V8, which would more readily fit in the narrow engine bay of those early "A" bodies, than the Poly engines, which one COULD "shoe-horn" in with quite a bit of effort. The new 273 cube LA V8, which had 180 ponies in two-barrel, regular gas form, was also the base V8 for the "B" body Mopars, which became intermediates as of 1965. By 1967, the "Poly" was no longer offered in US cars (1968 in Canada), and the 170 cube single-barrel Six was the standard "A" body plant, with the 225 the standard Six banger plant in "B" and "C" bodies. Mopar did offer a two-barrel Super Six in "export" Mopars, where V8s were less common, but not in the US until 1975, and not in Canada also, I think.
Saw a TV show tuning standard Volvo T5 engines where they machined a pocket and pressed-in dowels between the cylinder sleeves and outer block in the water jacket void to prevent movement at the top of the cylinder from higher boost. Had the cylinders rebored/honed after.
I was on the head subassembly line in Windsor in '75 building these. Valve springs flew all over the factory, but we got it done. Got our 400 unit quota done in 3.5 hours, shot pool in the union lounge for the rest of the shift.
Wow. Great tutorial. I have a 97 BMW that is consuming oil a rate of 1qt per 500 miles. Doesn't smoke, doesn't drip and idles and revs like a champ. Dropping it off at the shop who is going to perform these same tests. I'm certain it will require a rebuild.
It would be great to see a rebuild on THIS motor, not necessarily a power boost rebuild, just a slightly warm rebuild motor for a reliable daily driver ;)
This is the plan! We agree that giving the aluminum block engine a light refresh is the right thing to do. It can and should power either this wagon or another Mopar for many years to come.
It was a total disaster. One of the worst engines ever built. By the time the 70s rolled around Dodge quality control had gotten so bad that you either got a good Slant 6 or you got an oil drinking piece of garbage. That’s why the few people still alive today who purchased them in the 70s either loved them or hated them depending upon the engine they got.
@@prevost8686Well, that's total BS. The Aluminium Slant Six was ONLY available from 1960 to 1963. It was not a 'Total Disaster', it was built to better tolerances and build quality then any other US engine of those years. The engines 'problem', was Owners and Dealerships not using the correct Anti Freeze Coolant, and replacing it with ordinary water, causing corrosion, that then led to other failures. The cast iron engines were always made to the same quality control, and used the same tooling as (and hence common measurments with) the B/RB big block V8's. It takes a concerted effort to kill a Slant Six.
@@PiDsPagePrototypes Thanks for your revisionist history lesson. Anyone old enough to have purchased a Dodge product in the 70s can attest to what garbage they were producing.
I had that same problem with putting the same things in the same holes. I was repairing a Buick 350 for a fellow soldier and while I was waiting for a part he decided that I was going to slow so him and another guy put all the pistons in wherever they felt along with the caps for the pistons. Needless to say the engine would not make a whole revolution and nothing was stamped so I walked away to his dismay.
Hello, In the JDM world,they make block supports for the Honda engines. The slant six design is similar to that of a 4 cylinder Honda motor. No support for the top of the block where the cylinder meets the head. I’ve seen them make an insert that is shaped like the open area where the coolant passage is. It is basically pushed in the jacket area but sits close to the top. It keeps the top secure and eliminates any movement of the cylinder bore. I’m sure you can machine that out of aluminum and tap it in. This would allow you to use that motor if you wanted. I don’t see more than a 75 to 90 HP gain. Good luck TY
All solid lifter slant six heads interchange. Even the hydraulic lifter heads are backwards compatible if you change the valvetrain and beehive bolt at the back of the rocker shaft. And vise versa.
Well the ones in Australia didn't appear different between a car and truck besides the colour they were painted. I swapped out a couple of engines in Dodge trucks (when they failed) for ones from cars and I can't recall any difference. Long time ago though.
Interesting project. Since your not using the numbers matching engine, I would have probably dropped a 318 V8 into this car. I did a similar job with a 1967 Barracuda fastback, the original slant six was worn out and I just rebuilt a 318 that dropped right in.
I'm not sure how easy it would be to drop an v8 into the 61-62 model as it never came with one. On your 1967 Barracuda a v8 was available so the chassis was designed to accommodate one and parts such as engine mounts and radiator and all the other parts would have been available. The hood on the 61and 62 models was low so that is why they slanted it over in the first place,
The objective is to show different ways to enjoy the old car hobby. V8 engine rebuilding and modifications have been done many times. Devon is trying to show other options. I appreciate Devon’s efforts. In-line six cylinder engines were very common in my area, because they were less expensive to purchase, easier on gas, and easier to work on. I currently have a Chevrolet Suburban with an in-line six cylinder diesel engine. Smooth and efficient! What is old is now new.
We've done a lot of V8 builds already! We're trying to touch on as many different types of engines as we can with this series. We enjoy rebuilding the weird stuff because we get to learn and teach along the way. Doing V8's over and over again would get boring... for us and for you! 😉
There were ways of dealing with weak open deck aluminum blocks. However, it depended on how popular it was. Many people had to use such tricks when adding turbos to Hondas. 32:24 From what I can see, the aluminum block and iron block had either water jacket holes or bolt holes in different locations. That would require somthin g different about the head to match.
My understanding is that the main bearings are the same as those on the Hemi engine. Same size and everything. An insight to at leasts one reason why the Slant Six can withstand being driven to higher power levels. I hope you got one of the age when the crank was forged.
What a beautiful old wagon, can’t wait to see the project come together. My uncle had the same model sedan here in AUS, that old slant six was the quietest, most torquey engine I had ever seen way back then. Especially compared to our Austin A70 😁. Nice job 👍🇦🇺🦘
Davin, you might should give Derek Bieri at Vice Grip Garage a shout. He's got an old Ford that could probably use some of your expertise and contacts.... Would love to see you two get together on a project like that! Just don't argue over oil filters! LOL!
How about putting a brace plate to convert it from open deck to closed deck? That is something made on many stock open deck engines that are going to see performance upgrades (mostly turbo upgrades)
that is a very stout looking crankshaft for the little horsepower the engine made. In Argentina the straight sixes are very popular and we have been souping them up for road racing. even in the 70s you could be driving and be passed on the highway by a Turismo Carretera road racer doing 240-250km/h with a slant six.
The head is special because the chambers are slightly smaller in diameter to make sure they seal to the cylinder liners. The factory spec for the piston to deck dimension is .140" down in the bore, but usually it is more like .170". You can take .070 to .080 off the deck to try to get back to the original 8.4 to 1 compression. Also the chamber spec is 54cc and they run from 65-70cc as cast. Again the head can be surfaced to get the chambers smaller.
Same issues here in Europe with the Alfa Romeo "Busso" v6 - designed 1967 to make like 100hp, made with early 70s aluminium casting, even if you get an early 2000s version at ~500hp either the unsupported iron sleeve will crack or the block will crack at the webbing where the sleeve fits into the block because the engine was essentially unchanged for ~40 years except for bore increases. Plus it's an externally balanced v6 so you need to change the offset-mass balancer and flywheel for any rotating assembly mass change! 😂
In the early 60's it was not uncommon that there would still be casting sand in the block of the engines. It often clogged the radiator. The magnetic oil plug was not standard. My old 61 (170 CI) Lancer had no magnet and the replacement 225 I put in was the same.
AT2, 145hp, 165hp, and Pacer. Parts mostly interchangeable, AT2 block is stiffer, and may even have dished pistons, they're ideal for draw-thru turbos without intercooling. 165hp got compression bump from head machinging and extra chocke on the carby. Pacer got head with revised ports and chamber, higher again compression, and a different cam, reported occasionally as 195hp.
I never even knew Mopar slant 6 came in an aluminum block version. That is like an Alfa Romeo Nord engine, like 1970 4 cylinder. Commonly called a Wet Sleeve. The cylinder surrounded by coolant. David, you should do an Alfa engine!
I had one of those engines in the corner of the garage with the intent of building a Mopar roadster, T-bucket style. I would rebuild it, polish the block and put 3 S.U.'s carbs on it. Light duty coffee cruiser.
I wonder if you could fill the spaces between the cylinders and the aluminum with sand possibly putting a thin layer of plaster of Paris on top to immobilize them while you Deck The block. It would be fun to see the aluminum block engine run again! Maybe Dyno it against the cast iron, get a horsepower per pound figure
Please tell me that's not the front clip of the '50 lumber truck in the background! That was my favorite project! I'm so glad you guys are back! Keep 'um coming! ❤
19:00 - Davin, you've got it wrong here, but the reason this time is Unique to Slant Sixes, and is a bit unusual. The first step to getting the pistons to be higher in the bore on a 225 Slant, is to use the longer conrods out of the 198 Slant - 6.699 vs 7.005 inches - makes the engine more effiicent, and raises compression by reducing the volume that the air/fuel mix is squeezed within. The "Swept Volume" remains the same, but the wasted volume between the top of the piston at TDC and the top of the deck, is reduced. Once the longer rods are test fitted and the piston to open valve clearance is checked, you'll know how much the block or the cylinder head can be safely machined to achive a good compression ratio, around 9.5:1 is considered safe on cast iron heads. Decking the block needs a different technique, fly-cutters are a bad choice on any open-top block, IIRC it's a tool that looks more like a drill bit, but huge, and on it's side. It'd be fun to mess with people, by removing the the bores completely and turning the Slant in to a full Wet-Sleeve arrangement, like in the Renault 12/15/16 engines. That stock cam has lobes with faster ramp angles then any GM or Ford of the era - a performance cam for a GM 202 or Ford 250 is tamer then the stock Slant cam.
You can surface grind a iron sleeved aluminum engine. I'd probably fly cut it first, and the final dimension is stone ground. I actually did this to a late Vega engine with iron factory sleeves. I bored it .010' and surfaced the block. Nice finish. 20:27
The alloy slopey when built properly cause no issues. Very rare here in Oz though I knew of one in a mud pluuger that had plenty of mumbo. I believe it was a leftover from his R series road race car. He was a Chrysler dealer in that period. That was on 2" SUs. Davin,, the engine is 62 years old. Probabaly had a kero rebuild at some time. So many modern engines are open deck like that and make good power as well. So dont pick on something 50 years ahead. Though really they were not as Euro engines were made like that as well. Properly machined , correct gaskets and it will cause no issues. Most head / deck mills have multiple cutters in the head so should not have an issue decking the block.
Disk brake conversion - lots of guys have done this with original parts from later (70's) era A bodies. Can do front and rear axles but rear is harder if I recall.
Yes sir. it is a good idea to check that crankshaft to camshaft timing marks as some engines are different (Ford Y blocks have a different timing set-up) but also make sure your camshaft is on the compression stroke as even in this six cylinder the question is when you have the marks aligned are you on number one compression or number six compression (of course a proper service manual on the engine is helpful). You align those marks on a SBC as shown and think you are on number one cylinder compression and you time your distributor to that you will be 180 degrees out of time. This is a common mistake that novice engine assemblers make (ask me how I know from fifty years back).
I've seen the Honda guys fill the water jackets with sugar up to just about the top of the cylinders then put epoxy in to stabilize the cylinders. After that they drill the epoxy for water passage. Then you just rinse the sugar out with water.
We once drained the oil out of a slant6, and only the first liter or so actually drained out by itself. Then some oil fell out more like poop falls out of a..... The remaining 50% of oil was stuck in the pan. And yes, the pistons was stuck in the cylinders.
Good eye! Yes, we had an unfortunate mishap last year when another driver ran a stop sign and the old Chevy t-boned them. The straight-6 engine came away relatively unscathed (needed a new fan and water pump). We will try and include a quick update on it in a future episode.
Cylinder head difference... Look at the coolant hole at the front cylinder of each head (near your right hand at 32:13 into the video). The head for the cast iron block is significantly smaller than the head for the aluminum block. The hole corresponding at the rear of the heads look like they are the same size at 32:15 into the video.
Best use of a slant 6 would be for drivability, longevity and MPG. Use variable cam timing to operate the engine in the Atkinson-cycle during cruise. A single fly by wire, throttle injector would be needed and a knock sensor. 12 to1 compression and run it on E-85. keep it under 4,000rpm. Make the slant 6 do what it does best and even better.
I've seen where shops will take an open deck and mill out chunks of metal to fill in around the bores for support. That may be different though because the bores are also aluminum?
Thanks to LEVRACK for supporting this project! Check them out at levrack.com
This is the mechanic you need. Someone who knows engines from inside out no matter what you give him. A humble person, with a sea of knowledge with bare bones attitude of zero drama and all old skool wisdom and logic.
@@Tirah5 dude I completely agree. I watch one other video of his and I like his attitude. He’s not like the others at all. He’s right to it with little jokes but man he’s smart
31:52 - The 'Special' on the Cylinder head refers to it being checked and machined to be a Higher Accuracy for the mating surface and bore centerline, to prevent the cylinders moving about as described a few seconds earlier. Functionally, there is no difference in design, and they are interchangeable. The complete set of Cylinder heads for Slants, are the 'Early', 'Early Special', 'Late' (with the cast cranks) and the 'Pacer' out of Australia, with different ports and combustion chambers. Early, Special and Pacer are all interchangeable. There are also three known examples of the Aluminium Cast cylinder head to escape the prototyping recycle bin, that were never released to the public or put on engines sold by Chyrsler. Doug Dutra had two, one of which he and Steve Magente put on an Aluminium block in a special two door Valiant they built up for a Hot Rod magazine article, along with Alloy bell housing, Diff covers, and IIRC, a four speed OD manual and a Clifford Performance reproduction HyperPak manifold.
That Alloy block looks to be in restorable condition, most are not thanks to people not using the correct MoPar Coolant. If that is that bodies original engine, it should be rebuilt as OEM spec and kept with the car as a talking peice.
I saw steve in the early 2000s, at a car show in LA selling the slant 6 parts.
It was my understanding that the head for the aluminum engine was useable on the cast iron block but the head from a cast iron engine was more likely to leak at the head gasket on an aluminum engine due to the lack of the "undercut" in the lifter gallery area - which allowed a higher per square inch pressure on the gasket in the aluminum engine. The details that were very important on the alloy engines made building them a LOT fiddlier than building an iron engine. Iron engines sealed a LOT easier and were much more tolerant of overheating.
@@Arthagnou He'd have more then just one builds needs. He's been selling some of his collection recently to cover medical costs.
The car they built for Hot Rod, with all those Alloy parts, was sold to a bloke in Queensland and shipped DownUnder
Wait. There were aluminum heads made, but it didn't go beyond the prototype stage?
With many people choosing to build the old six cylinder engines, like the Slant Six and the Ford 300, having aftermarket cylinder heads with improvements over the factory ones would be something for a niche but surely sizable market. I mean, Edelbrock has an aluminum head for the Jeep straight six. They outperform the stock heads and have a weight saving.
Many have figured out that many factory cranks and blocks can easily handle boost when paired with aftermarket pistons and rods.
Dont forget the truck slant 6. Less compression, different cam etc. governer. Used in trucks until at least 70 here. That did have forged cranks. Not many here in Oz ever did. Pacers were about 10 hp and a few more useable revs than a 160hp
Glad to see Davin rebuilding another engine. These are my favorite videos Hagerty makes. Keep them coming!
Back when I was a teen in the late 60's I purchased a 1962 Dodge Lancer. It ran great but being a teenager I wanted more power so I pulled the engine and had it bored 100 over and the heads milled 100 under with bigger intake valves. I put in a 3/4 race cam (that's what they called them) bought a set of headers and a "two 1-barrel style" manifold. I went to Pep Boys and bought two generic 2-barrel carburetors and 2-to-1 barrel carb adapter from JC Whitney. I used a 6-volt coil (hotter spark) and solid core wires. It was for sure a "sleeper" for stop-light drags. I have no idea what the horsepower was but I blew so many rear-ends that eventually I had to use a junkyard V-8 rear end out of a different Dodge. It was a very fun car to drive and handled surprising well. I eventually sold it to go on a trip.
Watching all of your countless videos on rebuilding engines gave me the confidence to build my own, it is honestly the most rewarding feeling ever. Turning it over for the first time gave me chills. Can't thank you guys enough, as you always say: get into your shop and get some work done!
Amazing! This is why we do it!
I'm really glad to see that you're going to put the aluminum block back together. I'd like to see it running on the test stand too.
That "sand" is the remnants of the silica found in older antifreeze formulations. The silica would often cause the thermostats to seize as well.
Nah. More likely it's casting sand that was in the open water jacket that broke or corroded free.
Yup! Few people remember that antifreeze contained silica! The common cause of water pump failures back then. And since these aluminum engines were 'die cast' using permanent steel molds and cores (instead of sand cast) it's unlikely that was the source of the sand.
dried antifreeze?, or Dried "Stop seal"?
@@burthenry7740 You would never be able to remove a steel core. They likely use no-bake, CO2, or SO2 cured sand cores.
@@nathan.kostelecky These blocks were die cast, as described in various magazines back then, such as 'Car Life' May 1961.
If sand based cores were used, the blocks could have used the closed deck design and the conventional core plugs (often miscalled freeze plugs) to facilitate the sand removal.
These die casting machines were huge and also had to hold the previously made, cast iron, cylinder liners in place during the aluminum casting process.
we used to talk about how to build one of these aluminum slant 6's back in the 70's we came to the conclusion it can be done but only if you have a 1/2 to 3/4 in aluminum plate cut to fit in the water jacket . it has 2 jobs it keeps the cylinders in alignment when you have the block milled down and decked and it helps to keep everything solid if you put more power to the engine . back then it was if you wanted to build it for racing and planned to supercharge it you would need to have a way to keep the compression in and not have the cylinders moving under the head breaking the seal under compression. it was all theoretical shop talk but it can and would work if you needed a light weight 6 cylinder in a drag car and didn't want the cylinders snapping of in the block under power.
Thanks for bringing me the Lancer 🙌
It’s really cool to see the parts that you make at you job holding up to there standards
I had a customer that owned a 1967 slant six. He was so proud of it because there was an after market toilet paper oil filter externally. He would change it every month. I can't remember his oil change intervals. Engine was super clean. Somewhere near 400,000 miles the oil sending unit broke off and lost all the oil and the engine.
A lot of taxicabs ran those Frantz filters. Drive 100,000 miles,do the head,drive another 100,000.
J. C. Whitney used to sell a version of toilet paper oil filters. My dad had one for his 67 Jeep Wagoneer and another vehicle, perhaps a 72 Blazer.
I miss these videos ❤
Second engine I ever helped my dad rebuild was a 1960 225 CID Slant Six in a 1960 Dodge Senica Station Wagon. We did a quick and dirty, only honing the cylinders and used a Piston Expander made by Seal Power to tighten up the slop. New rings were installed and we (I) beat the heck out of that engine like any good 16 year old boy would do. We drove it over 50,000 additional miles before I went into the Navy in 69 and dad sold the car a couple of years after that. It was still running and he got $50.00 for it.
Yes sir the first engine I helped my father on was the slant six out of a 61 Valiant. What you have described is referred to as an overhaul which was frequently done on engines back in the day. Generally an overhaul was rings and bearings and a valve job along with any other repair needed. Most vehicles up into the mid to late sixties could be in framed and you did not have to remove the engine. My dad was born in 1923 and coming up he did a lot of valve jobs and ring jobs on engines as this was common place.
I'd like to add some added context on cast aluminum blocks.
High pressure die cast (HPDC) blocks are still relatively common in the present day, though they're more common from Asian auto makers and particularly in lower power applications. The reasoning for that is twofold, David covered the structural issues of the open deck design (open deck is required to form the water jacket with the steel die) and the second reason is that they're generally made of lower strength aluminum (higher iron content and less effective heat treatment).
Modern closed deck aluminum blocks are cast using what is called a "precision sand" process. The blocks are cast inside a package assembled from a number of cores, this allows the molten aluminum to flow between the water jacket and head deck to form the closed deck for increased rigidity. Precision sand aluminum blocks use iron liners, just like HPDC blocks, but generally use chills that are removed after casting to rapidly cool the aluminum in the main cap bulkheads and other highly stressed areas (when applicable) instead of overcasting steel inserts in those locations.
The very best precision sand aluminum blocks are cast in what is called the "Cosworth process." These blocks begin the casting process inverted so that the package can be filled smoothly (called counter-gravity), with minimal turbulence of the molten aluminum. This is important because molten aluminum is highly reactive to oxygen and aluminum oxide films create discontinuities within the blocks that may initiate cracks.
Davin, I think that attachment on the oil drain plug is something that was sold in the J C Whitney catalogs as an acid neutralizer for the oil. Almost like an anode rod for your oil.
Caught me looking for someone offering an answer, I'll accept this until someone comes up with something better. Cheers.
When i was a kid, my mom had a 63 Dodge Dart GT with a 225 slant 6. It had the push button automatic transmission.
It sat for 5 years, we added fresh fuel and it started right up.
I remember my father saying that those engines were indestructible and they were built too good.
I think Davin is one of the best mechanics on UA-cam. He's salty, funny, and tells it like it is.
They should consider adding a turbo because those engines can handle lots of boost.
A sleeper wagon 😃
Saw this again and it's still good!
David is the only mechanic that I watch on Hagerty. In fact, he's the only one I watch on Hagerty. The rest of them I have no intention watching They're boring. This guy is great.
@@Vetteman372 But I'm sure you forgot about Tom Cotter ?
Larry Chen is great to watch!!!
Davin is his name..
@@skozlozlaurie712 Yeah but Larry is no mechanic. Cammisa is a hoot too.
I don't meet another mechanic 😅
David the heads are basically the same between the aluminum and cast iron blocks. The difference is the head has to match the cylinder sleeves precisely on the aluminum block, or the head gasket would fail quickly. Chrysler put extra quality control steps in the process to make sure the heads would fit the block correctly.
@@russabrams3982 I think his name is Davin
@@2DJMK You sure it's not Devon?
Worked for Chrysler tor a few years in the late 60s and early 70s my understanding is that the heads were the same the heads could go from Aluminum to the Cast Iron BUT yon could not go the other way and in general unless they were over heated there was no problem
Cool. Sounds like the head for the aluminum block is the way to go, I would think.
Yup, early heads are the same. Later heads that changed at the same time the crank was changed to cast, are different. There's also a variation of the early head used on the Aussie "Pacer" spec Slants - they're rare and you can get the same improvements with a mild porting on a stock head.
Davin and gang thanks for another great video! We love your dialog and explanation of what and how things work! Blessings to all of you!
I see a new Redline Rebuild video, instant energy supercharge for me.
As always, I really enjoyed watching Davin tear down engines so much.^^
I'm glad that the two engines will get a new lease in life.
The aluminum block Slant Six is worthy of getting a refresh and made some mild upgrades that won't overwhelm the integrity of the block. A definite piece of history to preserve.
The iron block Slant Six is definitely the candidate for performance upgrades, with considerable aftermarket support behind it.
These and other straight six engines are getting a following, with a considerable aftermarket support to increase their performance. They have been proven to handle boost with the right combination of parts on the stock forged crankshafts. It would be great if the Slant Six and the Ford 300 were to get aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads, like Edelbrock has done with the Jeep straight six.
As long as the "A body" was going to be a real "compact" and have but six-bangers under the hood, an aluminum Slanty made perfect sense, even for the "Hyper Pak" option. It's a funny thing...the 225 Six was also the base engine for FULL-SIZE Dodges and Plymouths, but Chryslers had stopped offering a Six (the old Flathead) after the 1954 model year. They had only V8s, and after 1958, only the "B" block engines. DeSoto was on its way out by 1960, and also had only V8 engines, I believe they were the 326 Poly "A" engine and the 361 "B" Wedge. An aluminum engine in a full-sized car weighing over 4000 lbs made no sense at all. Also, the casting tech for aluminum blocks and heads was still a work in progress so it was better to have an iron engine in production in case things didn't go right. Curiously enough, although for 1962, with DeSoto gone, and Chrysler and Imperial had quite large body-on-frame full-sized cars, Dodge and Plymouth, seeing what was mistakenly though to be a trend towards smaller cars (about 15 years too early), came in the "B" bodies as their largest offerings. Though the 1962-1964 "full sized", B-Body Dodges and Plymouths included some quite fine cars, they fared poorly in the marketplace.
Also, the "suits" at Mopar, like their competitors, put an end to "performance" fours and sixes, as well as European-style powerplants like the air-cooled Corvair Six, which was scaled back a LOT in favor of the Chevy II, or "Nova". This made the aluminum slanty pointless, as the now-compact Darts and Valiants were but entry-level, compact offerings, and reliability, rather than performance, was their selling point. Of course, the "Hyper Pak" had to go also, as the "suits" wanted the new LA V8, which would more readily fit in the narrow engine bay of those early "A" bodies, than the Poly engines, which one COULD "shoe-horn" in with quite a bit of effort. The new 273 cube LA V8, which had 180 ponies in two-barrel, regular gas form, was also the base V8 for the "B" body Mopars, which became intermediates as of 1965. By 1967, the "Poly" was no longer offered in US cars (1968 in Canada), and the 170 cube single-barrel Six was the standard "A" body plant, with the 225 the standard Six banger plant in "B" and "C" bodies. Mopar did offer a two-barrel Super Six in "export" Mopars, where V8s were less common, but not in the US until 1975, and not in Canada also, I think.
Sad to see the 1950 Chevy truck front end in the background, crunched. Hope to see it return!
@@jeremyfraser67 what happened? 🫠
Saw a TV show tuning standard Volvo T5 engines where they machined a pocket and pressed-in dowels between the cylinder sleeves and outer block in the water jacket void to prevent movement at the top of the cylinder from higher boost. Had the cylinders rebored/honed after.
That was indeed some killer time lapse!
Slant 6 was the standard Chrysler engine in Australia back in the day. We learned how to do engine rebuilds on these (and Holden 202s) at TAFE.
I was on the head subassembly line in Windsor in '75 building these. Valve springs flew all over the factory, but we got it done. Got our 400 unit quota done in 3.5 hours, shot pool in the union lounge for the rest of the shift.
That's what's messed up about unions.
And therein lies the death of the US auto industry...
Wow. Great tutorial. I have a 97 BMW that is consuming oil a rate of 1qt per 500 miles. Doesn't smoke, doesn't drip and idles and revs like a champ. Dropping it off at the shop who is going to perform these same tests. I'm certain it will require a rebuild.
It would be great to see a rebuild on THIS motor, not necessarily a power boost rebuild, just a slightly warm rebuild motor for a reliable daily driver ;)
Yes a quick re fresh, bearing, rings, etc.. would be good and keep it with the car, in case a future owner wants to put the original engine back in.
This is the plan! We agree that giving the aluminum block engine a light refresh is the right thing to do. It can and should power either this wagon or another Mopar for many years to come.
I'd heard about the aluminum slant 6 but never seen one. Thanks.
It was a total disaster. One of the worst engines ever built. By the time the 70s rolled around Dodge quality control had gotten so bad that you either got a good Slant 6 or you got an oil drinking piece of garbage. That’s why the few people still alive today who purchased them in the 70s either loved them or hated them depending upon the engine they got.
@@prevost8686 I had two iron blocks. The rest of the vehicles rusted out and fell apart but the engines were excellent.
@@prevost8686Well, that's total BS. The Aluminium Slant Six was ONLY available from 1960 to 1963. It was not a 'Total Disaster', it was built to better tolerances and build quality then any other US engine of those years. The engines 'problem', was Owners and Dealerships not using the correct Anti Freeze Coolant, and replacing it with ordinary water, causing corrosion, that then led to other failures.
The cast iron engines were always made to the same quality control, and used the same tooling as (and hence common measurments with) the B/RB big block V8's.
It takes a concerted effort to kill a Slant Six.
@@PiDsPagePrototypes Thanks for your revisionist history lesson. Anyone old enough to have purchased a Dodge product in the 70s can attest to what garbage they were producing.
Looking forward to the continuation of this interesting engine build...
It's been a minute since I've seen a aluminum slant 6...good content and thanks...🔧🔧👍
You guys at Hagerty are totally entertaining and awsome. Thank you gentlemen and maybe gentleladies.
Leaning Tower of Power !!!!!
I’m stoked for this build!
Monday morning , gots my coffee and snackage and ready for a redline rebuild tear down
love that stop motion. very well done.
Leaning tower of power
not really just Torque y
I had that same problem with putting the same things in the same holes. I was repairing a Buick 350 for a fellow soldier and while I was waiting for a part he decided that I was going to slow so him and another guy put all the pistons in wherever they felt along with the caps for the pistons. Needless to say the engine would not make a whole revolution and nothing was stamped so I walked away to his dismay.
The ole leaning tower of power!!!
Thank you for sharing Davin. Well done!
Interesting build of a well respected 6. Great coverage and knowledgeable explanation. Thanks!
If you get stuck or have slant six questions, Doug Dutra is the slant six guru. He has literally written the book on them.
Hello, In the JDM world,they make block supports for the Honda engines. The slant six design is similar to that of a 4 cylinder Honda motor. No support for the top of the block where the cylinder meets the head. I’ve seen them make an insert that is shaped like the open area where the coolant passage is. It is basically pushed in the jacket area but sits close to the top. It keeps the top secure and eliminates any movement of the cylinder bore. I’m sure you can machine that out of aluminum and tap it in. This would allow you to use that motor if you wanted. I don’t see more than a 75 to 90 HP gain. Good luck TY
What they say is true!! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!!! Not my first choice for a wagon
All solid lifter slant six heads interchange. Even the hydraulic lifter heads are backwards compatible if you change the valvetrain and beehive bolt at the back of the rocker shaft. And vise versa.
Watching these rebuilds is amazing. I wish I could get my LDT 465 multifuel engine out of my M35A2 in there for Davin to rebuild. 😊
I have always wanted an aluminum block slant. Having a 64 Valiant slant 4spd, it would go good.
Watching a Redline Rebuild while wrapping up some Christmas Hot Wheels Monster Trucks for the Grandkids, nice.✌️
Very interesting comparison of the two engine designs/materials.
Back in the 60s, truck engines were build with gear drive for the cams instead of a chain. It would be interesting to see a truck slant 6.
Truck Slant Sixes used a chain, too. Not a gear drive.
Ford 300 CI straight six had gear driven cam
@@JosephOlson-ld2td but that wouldn’t be a slant 6, would it?
Well the ones in Australia didn't appear different between a car and truck besides the colour they were painted. I swapped out a couple of engines in Dodge trucks (when they failed) for ones from cars and I can't recall any difference. Long time ago though.
Slanter in my truck had a chain.
Always up for a redline rebuild video
Interesting project. Since your not using the numbers matching engine, I would have probably dropped a 318 V8 into this car. I did a similar job with a 1967 Barracuda fastback, the original slant six was worn out and I just rebuilt a 318 that dropped right in.
I'd rather build out a 6, even though 360s are like the cheapest crate motor there is. You can make real power out of a slant 6.
I'm not sure how easy it would be to drop an v8 into the 61-62 model as it never came with one. On your 1967 Barracuda a v8 was available so the chassis was designed to accommodate one and parts such as engine mounts and radiator and all the other parts would have been available. The hood on the 61and 62 models was low so that is why they slanted it over in the first place,
in the early 60 that was a problem the steering box was in the way
The objective is to show different ways to enjoy the old car hobby. V8 engine rebuilding and modifications have been done many times. Devon is trying to show other options. I appreciate Devon’s efforts. In-line six cylinder engines were very common in my area, because they were less expensive to purchase, easier on gas, and easier to work on. I currently have a Chevrolet Suburban with an in-line six cylinder diesel engine. Smooth and efficient! What is old is now new.
We've done a lot of V8 builds already! We're trying to touch on as many different types of engines as we can with this series. We enjoy rebuilding the weird stuff because we get to learn and teach along the way. Doing V8's over and over again would get boring... for us and for you! 😉
There were ways of dealing with weak open deck aluminum blocks. However, it depended on how popular it was.
Many people had to use such tricks when adding turbos to Hondas.
32:24 From what I can see, the aluminum block and iron block had either water jacket holes or bolt holes in different locations. That would require somthin g different about the head to match.
My understanding is that the main bearings are the same as those on the Hemi engine. Same size and everything. An insight to at leasts one reason why the Slant Six can withstand being driven to higher power levels. I hope you got one of the age when the crank was forged.
What a beautiful old wagon, can’t wait to see the project come together. My uncle had the same model sedan here in AUS, that old slant six was the quietest, most torquey engine I had ever seen way back then. Especially compared to our Austin A70 😁. Nice job 👍🇦🇺🦘
Davin, you might should give Derek Bieri at Vice Grip Garage a shout. He's got an old Ford that could probably use some of your expertise and contacts.... Would love to see you two get together on a project like that! Just don't argue over oil filters! LOL!
Better Yet Jamie from Dead Dodge Garage
Inverse dissimilar metal problems... aluminum bock and cast iron head vs the other way around. Great content!
Like the Chevy Vega engine.
I try to think about how engineers thought that such backwards thinking was a good idea.
Looks like the 50 Chevy pickup got smushed. That was a nice looking truck.
How about putting a brace plate to convert it from open deck to closed deck? That is something made on many stock open deck engines that are going to see performance upgrades (mostly turbo upgrades)
that is a very stout looking crankshaft for the little horsepower the engine made. In Argentina the straight sixes are very popular and we have been souping them up for road racing. even in the 70s you could be driving and be passed on the highway by a Turismo Carretera road racer doing 240-250km/h with a slant six.
The head is special because the chambers are slightly smaller in diameter to make sure they seal to the cylinder liners. The factory spec for the piston to deck dimension is .140" down in the bore, but usually it is more like .170". You can take .070 to .080 off the deck to try to get back to the original 8.4 to 1 compression. Also the chamber spec is 54cc and they run from 65-70cc as cast. Again the head can be surfaced to get the chambers smaller.
Same issues here in Europe with the Alfa Romeo "Busso" v6 - designed 1967 to make like 100hp, made with early 70s aluminium casting, even if you get an early 2000s version at ~500hp either the unsupported iron sleeve will crack or the block will crack at the webbing where the sleeve fits into the block because the engine was essentially unchanged for ~40 years except for bore increases.
Plus it's an externally balanced v6 so you need to change the offset-mass balancer and flywheel for any rotating assembly mass change! 😂
Looking forward to the next episode 😀 ❤
Weigh them both. See if Aluminum worth the hassle to make it a closed deck block.
For the rear axle, check out an axle from a 1999-2003 Dodge Durango. It also has disc brakes, stock.
That drain plug magnet has J.C. Whitney written all over it
I miss JC whitney.
In the early 60's it was not uncommon that there would still be casting sand in the block of the engines. It often clogged the radiator. The magnetic oil plug was not standard. My old 61 (170 CI) Lancer had no magnet and the replacement 225 I put in was the same.
in Australia there were speed / horsepower differences and optional assemblies that enhanced the power.
And a hemi head.
@@brianf8621Hemi Head goes on Hemi Engine, NOT on Slant.
AT2, 145hp, 165hp, and Pacer. Parts mostly interchangeable, AT2 block is stiffer, and may even have dished pistons, they're ideal for draw-thru turbos without intercooling. 165hp got compression bump from head machinging and extra chocke on the carby. Pacer got head with revised ports and chamber, higher again compression, and a different cam, reported occasionally as 195hp.
I never even knew Mopar slant 6 came in an aluminum block version. That is like an Alfa Romeo Nord engine, like 1970 4 cylinder. Commonly called a Wet Sleeve. The cylinder surrounded by coolant. David, you should do an Alfa engine!
I had one of those engines in the corner of the garage with the intent of building a Mopar roadster, T-bucket style. I would rebuild it, polish the block and put 3 S.U.'s carbs on it. Light duty coffee cruiser.
Modern archaeology! 👍
I wonder if you could fill the spaces between the cylinders and the aluminum with sand possibly putting a thin layer of plaster of Paris on top to immobilize them while you Deck The block. It would be fun to see the aluminum block engine run again! Maybe Dyno it against the cast iron, get a horsepower per pound figure
Great video as always, thank you.
A Turbo slant 6 would be a great build too
Hey! I had that Dart! I even had the nutless slant 6 that came with it!
Please tell me that's not the front clip of the '50 lumber truck in the background! That was my favorite project! I'm so glad you guys are back! Keep 'um coming! ❤
19:00 - Davin, you've got it wrong here, but the reason this time is Unique to Slant Sixes, and is a bit unusual. The first step to getting the pistons to be higher in the bore on a 225 Slant, is to use the longer conrods out of the 198 Slant - 6.699 vs 7.005 inches - makes the engine more effiicent, and raises compression by reducing the volume that the air/fuel mix is squeezed within. The "Swept Volume" remains the same, but the wasted volume between the top of the piston at TDC and the top of the deck, is reduced. Once the longer rods are test fitted and the piston to open valve clearance is checked, you'll know how much the block or the cylinder head can be safely machined to achive a good compression ratio, around 9.5:1 is considered safe on cast iron heads.
Decking the block needs a different technique, fly-cutters are a bad choice on any open-top block, IIRC it's a tool that looks more like a drill bit, but huge, and on it's side. It'd be fun to mess with people, by removing the the bores completely and turning the Slant in to a full Wet-Sleeve arrangement, like in the Renault 12/15/16 engines.
That stock cam has lobes with faster ramp angles then any GM or Ford of the era - a performance cam for a GM 202 or Ford 250 is tamer then the stock Slant cam.
You can surface grind a iron sleeved aluminum engine. I'd probably fly cut it first, and the final dimension is stone ground. I actually did this to a late Vega engine with iron factory sleeves. I bored it .010' and surfaced the block. Nice finish.
20:27
The alloy slopey when built properly cause no issues. Very rare here in Oz though I knew of one in a mud pluuger that had plenty of mumbo. I believe it was a leftover from his R series road race car. He was a Chrysler dealer in that period. That was on 2" SUs.
Davin,, the engine is 62 years old. Probabaly had a kero rebuild at some time.
So many modern engines are open deck like that and make good power as well. So dont pick on something 50 years ahead. Though really they were not as Euro engines were made like that as well. Properly machined , correct gaskets and it will cause no issues. Most head / deck mills have multiple cutters in the head so should not have an issue decking the block.
Great episode, Davin and John and the crew! Always look forward to seeing someone other than myself get all greasy!😂 ✌🏻❤️🙂🇨🇦
Disk brake conversion - lots of guys have done this with original parts from later (70's) era A bodies. Can do front and rear axles but rear is harder if I recall.
Where is next part of this?
AWESOME THANKS FOR SHARING HAGERTY👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yes sir. it is a good idea to check that crankshaft to camshaft timing marks as some engines are different (Ford Y blocks have a different timing set-up) but also make sure your camshaft is on the compression stroke as even in this six cylinder the question is when you have the marks aligned are you on number one compression or number six compression (of course a proper service manual on the engine is helpful). You align those marks on a SBC as shown and think you are on number one cylinder compression and you time your distributor to that you will be 180 degrees out of time. This is a common mistake that novice engine assemblers make (ask me how I know from fifty years back).
1950 chevy p/u front clip crunched - - - did brakes give out??
I've seen the Honda guys fill the water jackets with sugar up to just about the top of the cylinders then put epoxy in to stabilize the cylinders. After that they drill the epoxy for water passage. Then you just rinse the sugar out with water.
We once drained the oil out of a slant6, and only the first liter or so actually drained out by itself.
Then some oil fell out more like poop falls out of a.....
The remaining 50% of oil was stuck in the pan.
And yes, the pistons was stuck in the cylinders.
Um, is that the front clip from the 1950 truck with the world's most famous thrift master engine rebuild?!
I was wondering the same. Looks damaged.
Good eye! Yes, we had an unfortunate mishap last year when another driver ran a stop sign and the old Chevy t-boned them. The straight-6 engine came away relatively unscathed (needed a new fan and water pump). We will try and include a quick update on it in a future episode.
My slant 6 has the piston .140" down the hole with a .040" over bore and .010" cut off the deck
Cylinder head difference... Look at the coolant hole at the front cylinder of each head (near your right hand at 32:13 into the video). The head for the cast iron block is significantly smaller than the head for the aluminum block. The hole corresponding at the rear of the heads look like they are the same size at 32:15 into the video.
Several companies used to make domed pistons to gain some compression. I'm sure there must be some available somewhere still.
CARLOS FROM BRASIL,WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS.
Slant or 8 . All leaked oil. ) was like a dream back in the day
Best use of a slant 6 would be for drivability, longevity and MPG.
Use variable cam timing to operate the engine in the Atkinson-cycle during cruise.
A single fly by wire, throttle injector would be needed and a knock sensor.
12 to1 compression and run it on E-85. keep it under 4,000rpm.
Make the slant 6 do what it does best and even better.
I've seen where shops will take an open deck and mill out chunks of metal to fill in around the bores for support. That may be different though because the bores are also aluminum?
Mr. Hagerty when's the rebuilt began????
Greetings,new subscriber,I really enjoy this video. Very informative source..thanks
I had a 82 with hydraulic lifters. Much quieter than the solid lifter engine.