What a fascinating video! Thank you for sharing! I saved my overtime and bought a Fluke 175, brand new, that was on offer from RS. I use a 175 at work and it is checked/calibrated annually by the company. I went into to eBay and could not find a Fluke 25 but I did find a Fluke 27 in an auction. It would seem that Flukes hold some value, whatever their age.
Yes, Flukes hold their value. I also bought a 27 which was broken and fixed it. Will be a future video, Besides the electrical issue, that one had glue residue on the display window which made it hard to read. I tried polishing (for the first time... nothing to lose...) and its like new. Very happy with that one.
Very nice video! I have a Fluke 25 of my own on my work bench, and I had a 27 at work before I retired. I think both of these are touted as being "intrinsically safe" for use in dangerous conditions ( explosive atmospheres ) as in some industrial plants working with solvents or in mines or the oil production industry.
I have a Fluke 27 of late 1980’s vintage. It still works very well and I still use it. Probably my favourite meter to use on the bench. Mine has the stand. Regarding the changes you identified between your meter and the schematic for the 27 I think those might just be a matter of age (for either 25 or 27) rather than a difference between 25 and 27. They were probably always manufactured and sold alongside each other. My 27 has three fuses laid out exactly like those on your 25. They’re visible inside the battery bay. I have no need to take it apart so I don’t know about the fusible resistor.
Yes that makes sense, I guess the 27 I got for comparison is slightly newer and Fluke changed the schematic. Probably there are 25s out there that have only 2 fuses as well.
Fluke multimeters are good but the newer meters can drift slightly. The older meters do suffer from aging components. Being a calibration engineer I would buy a Fluke 83/85 or 87 but these do suffer from badly designed input terminals. A Fluke 175/177 or 179 is a good meter and if the terminals do come loose you can re-solder them. Drift can be down to over loading the current ranges. Tenma do a multimeter that is 50000 count and similar spec to Fluke 80 series for half the price. DO NOT bother with Isotech, RS Pro or cheaper Tenma meters apart from the mentioned one. Your HP 34401A will drift over time and need a full re-calibration about every 5 tears as DC mV drift, high voltage DC and resistance common errors. You can calibrate a lot of your own equipment using a good 6.5 digit dmm and a TTI counter with annual cal cost about £200 total (£100 each for UKAS calibration). Always get your equipment adjusted if its readings are 50% of the spec this will ensure the meters accuracy.
Interesting you mention Iso-Tech. I used to be responsible for the compliance testing of those products. Most meters were made by Appa in Taiwan and from the safety side were very good with proper fusing, layout etc for creepage and clearances. Mind you, that was 15 or more years ago when typically the 70 series and the like were new. Things have changed dramatically at RS and the compliance checking is virtually non-existant these days and purely a paperwork exercise. Fluke don't make all their own meters and some are made by Appa, Chung and a couple of others I can't remember now. They are badged by Fluke and many others.
I have an eBay Fluke 37, which is a 27 in a benchtop case. It worked when I got it although it was listed as parts/not working. A great everyday meter. I do wish the LCD had a backlight.
Nice repair!
What a fascinating video!
Thank you for sharing!
I saved my overtime and bought a Fluke 175, brand new, that was on offer from RS. I use a 175 at work and it is checked/calibrated annually by the company.
I went into to eBay and could not find a Fluke 25 but I did find a Fluke 27 in an auction. It would seem that Flukes hold some value, whatever their age.
Yes, Flukes hold their value. I also bought a 27 which was broken and fixed it. Will be a future video, Besides the electrical issue, that one had glue residue on the display window which made it hard to read. I tried polishing (for the first time... nothing to lose...) and its like new. Very happy with that one.
Very nice video! I have a Fluke 25 of my own on my work bench, and I had a 27 at work before I retired. I think both of these are touted as being "intrinsically safe" for use in dangerous conditions ( explosive atmospheres ) as in some industrial plants working with solvents or in mines or the oil production industry.
I have a Fluke 27 of late 1980’s vintage. It still works very well and I still use it. Probably my favourite meter to use on the bench. Mine has the stand. Regarding the changes you identified between your meter and the schematic for the 27 I think those might just be a matter of age (for either 25 or 27) rather than a difference between 25 and 27. They were probably always manufactured and sold alongside each other. My 27 has three fuses laid out exactly like those on your 25. They’re visible inside the battery bay. I have no need to take it apart so I don’t know about the fusible resistor.
Yes that makes sense, I guess the 27 I got for comparison is slightly newer and Fluke changed the schematic. Probably there are 25s out there that have only 2 fuses as well.
Fluke multimeters are good but the newer meters can drift slightly. The older meters do suffer from aging components. Being a calibration engineer I would buy a Fluke 83/85 or 87 but these do suffer from badly designed input terminals. A Fluke 175/177 or 179 is a good meter and if the terminals do come loose you can re-solder them. Drift can be down to over loading the current ranges. Tenma do a multimeter that is 50000 count and similar spec to Fluke 80 series for half the price. DO NOT bother with Isotech, RS Pro or cheaper Tenma meters apart from the mentioned one. Your HP 34401A will drift over time and need a full re-calibration about every 5 tears as DC mV drift, high voltage DC and resistance common errors. You can calibrate a lot of your own equipment using a good 6.5 digit dmm and a TTI counter with annual cal cost about £200 total (£100 each for UKAS calibration). Always get your equipment adjusted if its readings are 50% of the spec this will ensure the meters accuracy.
Interesting you mention Iso-Tech. I used to be responsible for the compliance testing of those products. Most meters were made by Appa in Taiwan and from the safety side were very good with proper fusing, layout etc for creepage and clearances. Mind you, that was 15 or more years ago when typically the 70 series and the like were new. Things have changed dramatically at RS and the compliance checking is virtually non-existant these days and purely a paperwork exercise.
Fluke don't make all their own meters and some are made by Appa, Chung and a couple of others I can't remember now. They are badged by Fluke and many others.
I have an eBay Fluke 37, which is a 27 in a benchtop case. It worked when I got it although it was listed as parts/not working. A great everyday meter. I do wish the LCD had a backlight.
I would say: Do it again so we can see that it is not a Fluke.
I see what you did there! 😂
Good job and repair. What makes a fusible resistor fusible?????
I think they have a defined (data sheet) and controlled way of failing
@@TheHWcave Thanx
There is no such thing as having too many multimeters.
I agree.