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Review: Laowa 15mm Medium Format shift lens - Ultra-wide on the 100MP Fuji GFX100S
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- Review of the Laowa 15mm f/4.5 shift lens on the G mount medium format [100MP] Fuji GFX100S. How shift works and lens performance. Lens is equivalent to ~11mm on full frame.
Includes information about lens corrections for this fully manual lens
More images in the full [written] review at
www.northlight...
The 35mm [Canon/Nikon/Sony] version of the lens is reviewed at
www.northlight...
[note: Includes videos]
The shift mount is covered in its own reviews:
• Banish parallax proble...
and
www.northlight...
Keith's tilt/shift book
www.crowood.co...
00:00 Start
00:42 A 15mm shift lens on different mounts
01:40 More about what shift is about
02:15 Lens build and construction
02:50 How wide is wide?
03:35 Aperture blades
04:50 Lens mount
06:10 Shifting the lens
08:10 No electronics in the lens
10:00 Thinking wide
11:18 Why use shift
12:50 Image detail
14:10 Fixing blur?
15:10 Distortion or geometry?
15:50 Flare
16:58 Limitations for shift
21:08 A way of fixing shift vignetting
22:20 Having to work with the lens
23:10 Using ultra-wide composition
25:10 Shift for architecture
26:00 Wide or too wide?
27:50 Indoors
29:00 How the 15mm helps...
29:50 Conclusions
![Bespoke 1-2-1 photography training by Keith Cooper [UK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SNxBaicWQwM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Bespoke 1-2-1 photography training by Keith Cooper [UK]](/img/tr.png)
Again Keith, another very informative and useful video! I have owned the red-ring 15mm Laowa shift for over a year. I had not used a shift lens prior to purchasing this one and you are correct it does take some practice to use effectively. I normally shoot at F/8 or f/11 and on a tripod. Primarily for architectural type photos. I shoot with a Nikon Z6. I wasn't happy with the focus peaking method of focus so I am "zooming in" focussing and then zooming back out to get my focus. Based on one of your other videos, I purchased Topaz Sharpen AI. I found it extremely useful when sharpening these 15mm images. Like your tree limb example, it improved the images significantly. I also do a fair number of horizontal and vertical shift stitching images and that has been a lot of fun. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise.
Thanks - Glad it's helped!
Outstanding - much more than a review! Thanks!!
Have you found any third-party mounting support for this lens? The new Laowa version looks a bit cumbersome to carry 🤣
Thanks
I only had the lens kit here for a while I'm afraid, so didn't have any other system to test, nor have I seen any...
Another great review Keith. Ive been struggling with the whole idea adapting a tilt shift to the gfx mount or purchasing a lens like this. This review was just what I need to see to help me in the decision process. Thank you so much Charlie
Tanks - I need to get a camera back to do some more tests with my Canon TS-E lenses
@@KeithCooper That being the case, I'll hold off until I see your update post. I think the comparison would be most helpful in the decision process. Have you tested the Nikor 19mm pc-e? Not sure to has the sensor coverage the Canon does. Most of the online discussion revolves around Canon 17mm or 24mm. Thank you so much Charlie
Don't hold your breath too much - I need to get Fuji to lend me the camera again [simply can't afford to buy one at the moment]
See the written review for far more info
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-15mm-shift-g-mount-lens/
@@KeithCooper Hi Keith, Not sure what happened to the Fuji Summit scheduled for April. None the less I picked up the Laowa to give it a go on my GFX 50 and 100. Found a like new one at BH in NYC saved $400 from new, so we'll worth the try. I also picked up your book to support the fine work you do. Thank you so very much Charlie
@@charliehoffmanphotography3145 Thanks - Hope it works well for you -that's a great deal!
Excellent review Keith. I didn't know that AI sharpen can fix that corner issue. Great tip.
Thanks - it handles the off-axis nature of the aberrations really well. I often apply it to a duplicated layer and then mask it back in where needed - depends on the sharpness of the rest of the image.
Thanks Kieth. A great review, as always! If you shot the gallery with the shift reversed and pointed the camera up you could probably get the building sides parallel - that would freak the architect out! 😉🤣
Yes, it did ;-) I have this in one of my videos about shift IIRC
@@KeithCooper Haha, great minds think alike! Have a great new year! David Myers Digital Masters Australasia.
Thanks again Keith, great review. 8 months down the road.... have you been able to test their new 20mm f/4 version? If so, what about image quality?
Thanks
No - they hadn't got one spare - I have a full review of the exact same lens in 35mm mount on the Northlight site.
Still hoping for a test...
Hi Keith, I have this lens for my gfx and love it, but I am still reading through your book and experimenting with the different perspective. A couple of things you might find of interest, firstly you can actually use filters if you really want to, H&Y make a L-100 magnetic filter holder which mates with the bayonet type mount on the lens. Secondly Laowa make a "Shift lens support" for the lens which enables you to keep the camera sensor horizontal or vertical (or any other angle you prefer) whilst using any lens shift independent of the shift angle. It also has an Arca Swiss mount, Best regards Sarah
Thanks - I've tried filters for lenses like this and really don't like them - just a personal choice though ;-)
The shift mount is covered in its own reviews
ua-cam.com/video/oaOUkgy2CYI/v-deo.html
and
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/
Thanks for mentioning - I'll add these links to the description
@@KeithCooper My apologies Keith I hadn't seen that you had reviewed the lens support :-) Thank you for taking the time to reply. Best regards Sarah
Keith, you understand the idea of a physical vs apparent horizon line and perspective well. You are from England. You are about middle age. You are technically capable. There is a good chance you know the earth is not a ball You even have some old Tartarian structure images. You must have heard of Martin Leidtke, or Paul Cook that are up in your area? 🙂 Shift lenses like this can give a nice new approach to product ...I wonder what the close focus distance is?
MFD on this is listed as 20cm [there's a pic in the written review showing it]
Afraid my knowledge of other photographers is very limited - as an ex geologist and surveyor I'll settle for the WGS 84 geoid
@@KeithCooper you might enoy Paul Cook then..and Martin's channel :-)
Very nice video, Keith. That rear baffle is a serious limitation, IMO, and seemingly unnecessary. I noticed this lens is also available in mounts for e.g. Nikon Z or other "35mm" "full frame" cameras. The question with the lens's numbers is how to interpret them. 110 degrees? Is that the horizontal angle? The angle with the "image circle"field of view? The net angle relative to the camera's frame size?
That would be important to me as I do not need an effective 20mm that I already have.
We, you and I, know from large format that stopping aperture down can increase the image circle significantly, and it seems that also works with this lens.
Biggest gripe with a lens like this is that it does not generate lens EXIF data. It should be relatively easy to pass on lens brand and model, focal length, max aperture, and aperture setting where the latter is the only one that needs bridging across the rotating front and back end.
Considering the existence of so many lens/camera mount adapters that relay electronic data, this should be easy.
Thanks.
With lens designs like these, stopping down makes very little difference to image circle size, it just reduces the rate of vignetting fall-off.
The 35mm versions are limited by the lens mount [especially F mount] and many do exhibit milder versions of reverse shift vignetting at wider apertures [this is usually covered in my written reviews, not videos]
The smaller of the rear stops in this lens does seem excessive, but I'll have to ask them at Venus Optics about that. It is only an issue at extremes of shift [beyond what's suggested for this lens]
@@KeithCooper - clear, thank you
You could say that secondary vignetting is baffling. Thanks for the video. You may have a look at an LCC filter along with Capture One Pro. Since tilt shift lenses (or just shift lenses) don't have a profile you could apply to all images due to the nature of the shifting you'd have to use the filter on a second shot for each image (or scene if you will) and apply the LCC correction independently to each image in Capture One. I know of another UA-camr that has a video for this using a TS lens if you'd like me to point you in that direction. Caveat, I have yet to purchase the LCC filter myself as I'd have to figure out how to use it with a lens that bulbous and no real way of blocking light from intruding from the sides into the lens.
Glad it was of interest
I don't have a copy of C1 Pro to test this with at all - well that and the GFX goes back to Fuji on Tuesday ;-)
However, I don't really use filters with my very wide lenses, so don't have any of those sitting round ;-) I do use the TS-E-17 a lot for my work though.
I use an ND on my TS-E24 occasionally, but not often
Simply never been a big fan of filters...
@@KeithCooper It's not really a filter you'd shoot through but more like a white balance tool, but you use it to correct the vignetting of a scene (or even dust spots on your sensor) in the computer. It wouldn't really be all that useful for most lenses as you'd just get a good lens profile and use that, but for TS lenses you'd have to know how much tilt and shift that you used and make profiles for all those scenarios and even then you'd have to write it all down as it's not saved to the exif data.
Cheers and Happy New Year!
Yes, one of my hopes this year is to see some tilt/shift lenses with proper EXIF support... fingers crossed ;-)
Fabulous! Great review!
Thanks
Have a good new year, I just dumped my A4 canon printer and I will get the P900. I'm waiting for Fujis TS/PC lenses before I start translating to Fuji GFX 100s.When is it better to use Panorama using a wide lens than using a Ultra Wide lens and a single photo?
I prefer stitching for wider views. For my high res work I use a gigapan Epic Pro.
Super wide is limited to rectilinear projection and that's often not what I want for very wide views.
Something I'll be returning to... For me shift lenses are not for panoramics, other than stitching multiple vertically shifted shots on a pano head.
@@KeithCooper I have stared to learn about the equipment I need to use of a normal lens for panorama. In your book there is not any information about panormana equipment unless you use a PC/TS lens.
Yup, that would be because the book is just about using T/S lenses... ;-)
See here for some pano stuff...
www.northlight-images.co.uk/making-a-14-metre-photographic-print/
Always interesting looking at these lenses. I love wide angle photography myself although other than a vintage 35mm shift lens I don't own any other shift type lenses as they are pretty expensive. My favourite has to be my Irix 11mm f4 lens. I'd recommend you give this lens a try ( it's available for Canon EF ). It's a rectilinear design and pretty decent edge to edge. I use mine to shoot church interiors with great results. As you alluded to, it does need careful use as results will either be great or look lousy lol. That said, the Irix is the widest lens you can use on Nikon f mount without having to resort to fisheye lenses which honestly I'm not a fan of. I have looked into using this lens mounting my camera to one of those huge pole type tripods to offset the leaning distortion. Other than it being a hassle to carry around is this something you have tried in the past as an alternative to using a shift lens?
Thanks
See here [from my years of pre-video articles]
www.northlight-images.co.uk/megamast-a-28-foot-camera-tripodstand-review/
Perhaps time to consider a video review outdoors - once the weather improves ;-)
I have tried the Irix 15mm, but not the 11mm
www.northlight-images.co.uk/irix-15mm-lens-review/
Almost all my wide lens reviews pre-date my videos
@@KeithCooper Excellent Keith, yes that tripod megamast stand is exactly the type of thing I was considering. The camranger is a good addition I'll have to check that out too 👍
I get to use it relatively often - often to get views of industrial/business premisses over the top of a busy car park ;-)
Hi Keith. Thank you for the valuable content you provide. I've been doing some "math/geometry" in my head regarding the shift (only) lenses. Am I correct to say that provided I have a sensor with a high enough megapixel count where I can afford to crop 30% of the image and still get a big enough file... Using a shift only lens for perspective correction and using a wider lens levelled correctly (to avoid converging lines) and than cropping out the part I need will actually give me the same result, isn't it? (just less megapixels). Thank you!
Yes, of course you can just use a good wider angle lens and crop....
The key is levelling the camera [if it's elimination of convergence you want]
if you used the 5 blader wide open then used a circular disc in the lens, would that reduce the sunstars while also manually stopping down the lens?
laowa do make nice optics
Unfortunately I don't think there is anywhere you could actually put such an aperture stop to work effectively. The aperture blades go in a very specific place inside the lens.
Yes, interesting lenses, I've tested quite a few development ones for them over the years - the 24mm f/14 probe lens was the strangest ;-)
How about the magic shift convertor from Laowa? It states that it can convert any lens into shift lens. Have you had an opportunity to try it?
I'll have to see if I can borrow one to have a look when I next have a camera here - it's just gone back to Fuji
Looking forward on your next lecture on Wide angle. I unsertion if I shall get a m 19mm PC that I cannmot use filter on or a fixed 15mm that I can use one filter on. I ususally use ND and NDgrad on the lenses.
For me the shift trumps any use of filters.
I'll take two shots and blend if need be...
@@KeithCooper Thank you. Did you put an video on stiching horrisontal pictures?
maybe, but it's in every [written] lens review I do
It's a trivial operation in Photoshop - I don't ever use Lightroom though
I will add a video the next time I have a shift lens to test.
@@KeithCooper Ok Thank you. Mostly interested in the distortion at the edge of the single photo before you stich them when you use a Wide as 15-19mm.
With shift, they stitch completely - you are just stitching different parts of the lens image circle
Was the heavy vignette found on medium format or 35mm? I'd like the 14 blade aperture but do not want the vignette issue. I'm using 35mm.
This is my testing of the medium format version of the lens - only tested as an MF lens
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-15mm-shift-g-mount-lens/
See my testing of the 35mm version at
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-15mm-f4_5-shift-lens/
The reviews also show differences between 14 and 5 blade. I would pick the 14 blade every time - it makes no difference to the other characteristics of the lens beyond OOF look and star spikes
Thank you!@@KeithCooper My thoughts exactly
Keith is shifty!
In many ways I'm told... ;-)
@@KeithCooper 😅
Before I watch the video, I feel we should not bow to marketers calling these cameras "medium format". Let's go back to old school definitions. The simple definition for "small format" was, as long as it fits on 127 film, it's small format. That film compares to 120 film (but with a different spool pick up) but rather than 60mm wide, 127 is 40mm wide. Of that 40mm, between 34mm and 36mm is usable. For a 36mm * 24mm, this meant it would fit vertically on a horizontally rolling film. If we assume 36mm usable, then at a 3:2 ratio, you could still get a 54mm * 36mm shot on that - more than twice the area of 36mm * 24mm (but "only" 1.5 times linear magnification and that defines the ceteris paribus gain potential, not the area gain).
This means that medium format will start at a format like "645" that really is 54mm * 45mm. And, "6*9" (56mm*84mm) would still be "medium format". I'd say, if 120 film format is too small to fill the camera's frame, then it's large format. Generally, in practice that means it starts with so-called 9*12 (cm) or the slightly larger inch format of 4"*5" (10.16cm * 12.70cm).
In digital cameras of today, this means "we" only have two medium format cameras: the big Hasselblad and the Phase One. Even anything that uses a crop sensor in a 645 body is small format.
Whilst I agree, and I do make a point of calling this 'small medium format' in the video. I'm afraid the good ship 'Historical origins' has long since sailed for most photographers ;-)
I've tried out the 'real MF' Hasselblad and it was great, but the lens options were relatively limited for what I wanted [not that I could afford it for my own use]
@@KeithCooper - when historical becomes hysterical, we become like Don Quixote fighting windmills. I'm aware of that.
Still, the younger generation needs to understand where these terms come from.
After all they also learn the difference between an inch and a foot or metric analogons.
Yes, I alternate between imperial and metric quite often, partly just to irk a few people ;-) I grew up with both, so still think of both, much in the way I use Fahrenheit for thinking of how hot it is and Celsius for how cold (and Kelvin for calculations!)
Thank you for your thorough review.
I'm sure you've used your Canon TS-E 3,5/24mm II and TS-E 4,0/17mm on the Fujifilm G100s, how do they behave there?
Just for a few shots when I got the adapter - the GFX goes back to Fuji next week, so a detailed test of the Canon TS-E lenses may have to wait until I get a body back some time (unless the weather forecast is wrong for the next week)
See the examples I posted in this DPR thread
www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66721457