Great video! Just what I needed. For a total newbie trying to repaint kitchen cabinets with Fuji Mini-Mite 3 platinum, what paint and primer would you recommend? I’m thinking of buying 2.0mm cap and the flexible hose attachment as well.
Thank you for checking out my video and the kind comments! Repainting kitchen cabinets is also on my to do list - seems like a lot of people are updating their kitchens. I was planning on using Stix primer and BM Advance for mine as I like how this combo turns out and I can spray it with my Fuji SP2. Recently I have received some comments on another BM product called Command. Apparently all the benefits of Advance but dries a lot faster. I have never used it but went ahead and bought a gallon to try on a bunch of outdoor planters I am finishing building right now - so going to try the Stix and Command combo this weekend - will be posting a video of the results if you are interested. I don't think you can go wrong with the BM Advance, however, the dry time can be challenging... I had good results with the 2.0 capset and have been using the whip hose (not as flexible as you would think but definitely lighter and more maneuverable) for quite some time. I have a few other videos that you may find useful if you are new to spraying with a Fuji turbine - they are posted on my channel. Good luck with your kitchen project!
Stix is great. Unfortunately it doesn’t do well with blocking stains. I painted some cabinets a few weeks ago and yellow stains appeared on almost every door and some cabinets, luckily it was after priming it and not the top coat. I had ran out to Home Depot to get BIN shellac. It did great on blocking the stains.
Thanks for posting this. I just watched and commented on another of your videos comparing different cups for the Fuji Semi-Pro 2. As I mentioned in my comments there, I'll be using my Fuji Hobby Pro 2 tomorrow for the first time (same as the Semi-Pro 2 except it's black, not blue, and it comes with a 1.8mm spray cap installed instead of the 1.3 that comes with the Semi-Pro 2. Perfect timing seeing this, as I'll be painting with Benjamin Moore Advance after priming with Zinsser BIN. From all I've read that BIN won't need thinning, and the approx 10% water thinning for the Advance should thin it enough to work with the 1.8 spray cap. Great to see this here!
Thanks for the comment. I thinned the paint (Benjamin Moore Advance) and primer (Insl-X Stix) about 8% and sprayed with the 2.0mm capset and was very happy with the result. I don't have any experience with the Zinsser BIN with my HVLP - but I have used it before with a roller with good results, seem to recall that it is shellac based. Curious why you chose the Zinsser BIN - always interested in what works well and as importantly in what situations! Also interested in cleanup if it is shellac based - does that mean clean up with alcohol? I am a big fan of the Fuji turbines and also the Benjamin Moore Advance. My only quibble with the Advance is that it takes a long time to cure, however, once cured it is very resilient and looks great. Good luck tomorrow!
@@warrentonwoodworks Chicagoland Painter here. Our local BM Retailer, JC Licht, started carrying Ilva Paints. With the hardener additive, it dries to touch in 45 minutes and cures in 12 hours. Yes. It works. It's comparable to Fine Paints of Europe if you're familiar.
Haven't seen Ilva at my local BM store or ever used a hardener additive. Curious if after adding the hardener do you have to use the material within a certain time? Interesting.
@@warrentonwoodworks no, I asked the same thing to the Rep. it evaporates out. Still, to be safe, I mixed only what I needed in a 1QT cup. But yeah, they did say it's supposed to evaporate out. It works. Scratched it with a key the next day. Dented the wood, didn't scratch the paint.
Nice! I will have to check it out - my current goto's are Advance for indoor stuff and Command or GF Milk Paint for outdoor, these have yet to let me down! Appreciate you sharing your experience with the Ilva paints and hardener additive.
Which air cap? I’ve been spraying INSL-X Cabinet Coat using a 1.5 tip and a #9 air cap thinned at 10%. Fantastic results. Pre 3M 4 turbine Accuspray system. I use the 3M disposables too. They’re awesome.
I'm using Fuji Semi-Pro 2 with the 2.0mm capset - I also thinned about 10%. Very happy with the results. Getting ready to try INSL-X primer and BM Command combo on some outdoor planters, going to stick with the 2.0mm capset, not sure about thinning yet as I have not used Command before.
I have been happy with the BM Advance paint - it looks great and is pretty resilient. I was really happy I was able to spray it with my SP2 as it is so much faster and better looking than rolling/brushing. I thinned the paint about 8-10% and used a 2.0mm cap set - my 1.5mm was a fail... Thanks for checking out my video and good luck with the 1.8mm cap set.
@@warrentonwoodworks Both 1.8 and even 1.5 are doable. My BM dealer is the biggest in the state. On his advice, I thinned to 20%+. He told me that 2.0 is asking for orange peel. For your own home (no rental) thin to make it work with a 1.5mm tip. I know that it violates the TDS. They move more Advance than anyone in the state. He said there have been no issues with durability.
@@warrentonwoodworks Also, just FYI, Advance in bright whites will yellow pretty bad. BM fully admits it. I was an Advance guy until I discovered Scuff-X. Then my BM dealer encouraged me to try Corrotech command. Both Ben Moore products are superior to Advance in pretty much every way. Starting with being non-yellowing.
Appreciate the info on the Command product - I will definitely give it a try especially after reading about the dry/cure time - that is the only thing I don't like about Advance. I also like that it is waterborne and a single component product - both wins for me! If it can be used on a shop floor it's got to be resilient - has that been your experience? Any downsides? Thankfully I have not had any yellowing with the Advance product or had anyone complain about it. Thanks again for the tip on the Command product.
I did try the 1.5 capset and was not able to get a nice spray pattern - it was just too spotty. Have not been comfortable with thinning more than 8-10%. I'm sure at 20% you can get a better pattern - if the BM dealer is fine with 20% maybe next time I will be more comfortable increasing the water, however, I have always been afraid of messing with the manufacturers "chemistry". So far I have been happy with the 2.0 capset, Advance, and 8-10% thinning combo and haven't had any issues with orange peel. Appreciate the info, looking forward to giving the Command product a go!
I love my Fuji and the BM Advanced. I re-did my kitchen cabinets during Covid and they look as good as the originals. Need to paint some doors and actually looking forward to it.
Smashing video, very informative to a newcomer like me so thank you! I've been trying to spray a water based gloss paint with absolutely no success at all with my new Semi-Pro 2. It either spatters out when thinned to the fastest viscosity runout time or if I thin it even more so it doesn't spatter it just dries like chalk dust. I've been using Floetrol to 20% but it doesn't help me. Fuji tells me it won't spray these, after I bought it, but I'm wondering if you've ever achieved a good gloss finish. I've tried 1.8 and 2.0 cap sets. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you for the very kind words! I do use Floetrol with latex paint when rolling/brushing walls and trim to reduce brush and roller marks, however, don't typically use it when spraying - I would try spraying w/o the Floetrol, and thin to no more than 10 percent using water -- check the data sheet for the paint you are spraying - the manufacturer will have guidelines for how much thinning you can do - or - just try 8-10 percent water with your paint and spray on some test pieces. Definitely stick with the larger 2.0 cap set. I was able to spray Stix primer (very thick) using around 10 percent water and the 2.0 cap set - you may be able to go even higher with the water than 10 percent but that always concerns me and the 10 percent worked for me. I have not used gloss - I usually stick with satin, however, think you should be able to get nice results either way with the SP2. Good luck and let me know if the 10 percent water works.
@@warrentonwoodworks Thank you very much for answering my question, I really appreciate your time and help. I originally tried 10% then went to 20% but both were far too thick for the SP2 unfortunately. I had a reply from Fuji today and their response was that the SP2 was only a 5psi unit and consequently I would need to thin the paint I'm trying to use to a point that it would lose its sheen. That's exactly what happened to me unfortunately. At least I know now that the SP2 isn't capable of spraying water based gloss paint. I just wish I'd known that before I'd bought it. Thanks again for your reply! Keep spraying! 👍😁
@@elguapo1507 Geez, sorry to hear that but thank you for the info - would never have guessed the gloss is so difficult to deal with. Good luck with all your projects.
You might want to try wiping down the hvlp gun with lacquer thinner after your initial soap and water wash. Toss the rags outside when you are done of course.
Thank you for checking out my video and the comment - I have been pretty happy with the 2.0mm cap set but I do thin ~ 8 to 10 percent for Stix and BM Advance. I am able to spray w/o thinning using Graco TC Pro but I don't think the finish is as nice and I use a ton more paint...
Thanks for sharing. I have a Mini 3 and not have sprayed latex before, I find it interesting the amount of thinning and cap sets different folks use with Advance.
Thanks for checking out my video! I did try spraying Advance w/o thinning and with a smaller cap set but was not able to get a good spray pattern on my SP2. Thankfully 8-10% thinning and a 2.0mm cap set seemed to do the trick for me. I do like the Advance, however, at the suggestion of @ILruffian in a comment on one of my videos I am going to give BM Command a try - seems like the best aspects of Advance w/o the long dry/cure time.
@@warrentonwoodworks I have brushed and rolled Command but I would have to say it would be best sprayed as it dries so fast it was had to keep a wet edge. I do have some of the Command left over and since the gun it new to me I am going to try it. Thanks again
@@garrettlmorton I did spray the BM Command on some outdoor planters (ua-cam.com/video/ZNHq6MVf9PQ/v-deo.html) and a concrete wall (ua-cam.com/video/3WMk66PLyoc/v-deo.html). It is now one of my goto outdoor paints. I sprayed it with my Fuji Semi-Pro 2 (thinned) and also with my Graco Airless and both did a great job with it. It didn't dry and cure as fast as they advertise but it is faster than Advance. The finish is great - comparable to Advance, maybe not quite as "soft" to the touch but very close. I will be spraying my entire concrete foundation soon and will use it on outdoor projects - it's a toss up for me Command or General Finishes Milk Paint for outdoor - both are great and have done well against the elements (sun/rain/snow). I still like the Advance better for indoor projects as it has less odor when spraying/drying/curing, just wish Advance would dry/cure faster.
Was there any orange peel effect with the Benny Moore advanced? I ask as I just purchased the Fuji semi pro 2 and would be using Sherwin-Williams Emerald Enamel and I am trying to acquire a cabinet finish.
I did not have any orange peel with BM Advance - very happy with the finish, although it does take a while to dry and fully cure. I have gone to using box fans with filters to speed it along... Also the Fuji Semi-Pro 2 has been a game changer for me - I've gone from someone who used to hate the finishing process to really enjoying it! Good luck on your spraying projects and hope you enjoy your new sprayer!
I don't know that Fuji makes a larger cup for the gravity fed M Series gun, but guessing that 3M does - you would have to get an adapter for their 3M PPS 2.0 system. I am doing this for my M Series gun but don't have the gravity fed one. Check out 3M's site for their PPS 2.0 options for your gun. Good Luck!
I used Benjamin Moore Advance - it is a waterborne alkyd paint. It is my goto for indoor projects, I have sprayed, rolled, and brushed it and really like the finish, however, it does take a bit of time to dry and cure.
I like the Advance and also the Benjamin Moore Command - I use Advance for indoor projects and Command for outdoor projects. They both have a great finish, and are easy to clean up. They also both take a while to dry and fully cure. Very happy with Benjamin Moore products.
Thanks! Surprisingly it works really well on 90 degree cuts - between the force of the rotating saw throwing the dust toward the chute at the back and the dust collection running I am super happy with it. Admittedly it is not great when cutting miters and kinda a pain to scoot the bin one direction or the other for the mitered cuts, but works well enough for now!
Yes, it does a good job containing the over spray - one of the nice things with the Fuji SP2 is that I do not have a ton of over spray. I find I have a lot more over spray with my airless which I try to use outside... My current spray booth can be configured in a bunch of sizes I tend to use small (74"x42"x80" LxWxH), medium (84"x74"x80"), and large (122"x74"x80") basic configurations. I posted a free model with dimensions on my website, you can download it from here www.warrentonwoodworks.com/images/projects/spraybooth/SprayBoothModel.pdf. Checkout my video on some things to consider when building your own spray booth ua-cam.com/video/NWdfCnLsypU/v-deo.html, and a demo setup/teardown ua-cam.com/video/ovi2kZsAnPo/v-deo.html of the one I made - if interested. Thanks for checking out my video!
I was planning on doing a short video on using the 3M system with a Fuji SP2. I had questions about what was needed when I made the switch. Thanks for checking out my video and I will try and get something up this weekend.
Just need to screw the 3M adapter into the gun, uploading the video now that includes various cup options, including 3M PPS 2.0 H/O 13.5 oz Midi size cup - check out the comments for the right adapter - hardest part is finding the right adapter...
@@warrentonwoodworks 100%. There is no conversion lesson needed. But you will spend a lot of time with charts (and possibly making calls) to find out which adapter you need for your gun.
Great video. I have a Fuji Q5 I use for painting motorcycle parts. It works quite well. I am curious about your trick with using the Saran wrap on the 1 gallon containers. Does this help preserve the paint somehow?
Thank you, very kind. I generally use the heavy duty, gallon size, zip lock bags or in some cases Saran wrap between the lid and the container -- I have found it helps to prevent rust and paint from forming and drying on the bottom of the lid and eventually dropping into the can when I re-open it. I started doing this years ago with left over house paint after a bunch of dried crap dropped into the paint when I re-opened it -- it seems to work pretty well so I have just stuck with it. It probably also does help seal the can better too! Every time I open a gallon of paint I am amazed that someone has not come up with a better lid system - we have cars that run on batteries but still messing with old paint can technology.
Some quart cans come with the plastic cans and lids and are easy to wipe clean. I haven’t seen rust on these paint cans yet. I gonna start keeping them for leftover paint.
I did notice the last gallon of poly I purchased had a plastic lid that snapped into the can - it did not occur to me to keep the can+lid for storing other material after cleaning it out - great idea - Thanks!
Just read a tip regarding thinning latex with 25% Floetrol and 50% water based polyeurethane. Sounds way excessive to me but a 1.3 tip supposedly can then be used. Guy was only using a 3 stage hvlp ! Mines a 4 stage, but i always figured you needed a 5 or 6 to do latex. Gotta try it i guess.
Hmm, sounds like a bit of a science experiment to me - I have successfully sprayed latex, thinning 8-10% with water, and using a 2.0mm cap set with my Semi Pro 2. I use Floetrol when brushing and rolling to extend open time and reduce brush and roller marks. You should be able to get a nice coat spraying latex if you thin with water and use an appropriate capset. Think I would pass on the latex+Floetrol+poly and stick with water - Good luck!
@@warrentonwoodworks LOL - yeah possibly. I homed in on it searching for latex use with a 1.3 tip which is the only one i have. Cap sets for my Maxum2 gun are close to $100 a set, so i really dont want to guess what will work. Ill let you know if i try the science experiment :)
Thanks for the comment! For me I think the 2.0 capset is best. My experience is the Fuji SP2 rocks poly and stain but struggles a little with the thicker materials. That said, I do think it produces a pretty good finish if you thin appropriately - I go around 8-10 percent based on the manufacturers recommendations with Advance. I think it is generally safe to thin most materials 10 percent and have seen others go as high as 20 percent with Advance - the amount you thin will determine the capsets you can spray with... Thinner material like poly is fine with the 1.3 mm... I feel like thinning 10 percent and using a 2.0 capset is best for me when spraying Advance with my Fuji SP2 - I don't think I would get better results with the 1.8 capset as I'm not sure the Fuji SP 2 would atomize the material (thinned ~10 percent) sufficiently (YMMV). This is the issue I had with the smaller capset, it was not able to atomize the Advance sufficiently and the spray was spotty and I was not able to get a good fan pattern. The 2.0 capset does a good job atomizing the Advance when thinned ~10 percent and I think you can see the quality of the finish at the end of the video. Thanks again for the comment and good luck on your spraying projects!
I purchased the Fuji Mini Mite 4, but I have been experiencing orange peel issues, even when just using a primer. Specifically, I have been using SW Extreme Blocker Oil Based primer, which had an out-of-can viscosity of 45s. I thinned 10% and later to 15% but still get orange peel, and when I spray vertically, I even get runs when thinned so much. I have experimented with different fan sizes and flow rates, but I am still not getting the fine finish I desire. I have been using a 1.8mm tip as that is what Fuji recommends for oil based and enamel paints, but I cannot get it to spray a fine-looking finish. I am going to try a smaller tip and see how that does. Any suggestions to try to get a smooth fine finish.
Unfortunately I do not have experience with the material you are spraying or the Fuji Mini Mite 4 - when I spray paint/primer I use a 2.0mm cap set and spray BM Advance, Command, and Insl-X Stix primer. I do thin between 8 and 10 percent. I spray many light coats vs fewer heavier coats. My Fuji SP 2 is definitely going to spray less material than your 4 stage Mini Mite. I think I would stick with the 10 percent thinning (assuming that is recommended on the SW DS for the product you are spraying) and try more lighter coats vs fewer heavier coats - if you get runs or orange peel any time savings from fewer coats is lost... You may be able to use a smaller cap set with the Mini Mite 4 but I cannot with my SP2 - I have tried and could not get a decent spray pattern. I wish you luck in finding the right combination of material, cap set, fan pattern, and air volume - it definitely can be frustrating. Maybe worth trying some cheap paint/primer on Home Depot/Lowes cardboard boxes to dial in your material volume when you are not too concerned about what you are spraying or where it is going -- try lighter coats on vertical cardboard and see what works. Good luck!
Orange peel can have multiple causes. The usual cause is simply not enough atomization of the material. Even then, there can be differing reasons for not enough atomization. In GENERAL, it may be caused by too much fluid so your gun/system does not have enough air/force to atomize what's coming out of the tip. This CAN be caused by to big of a tip, but there's a limit on how small you can go because of the viscosity. You might want to try dialing down the fluid flow rate of the gun before going with a smaller tip. If the Mini Mite has an adjustable air output, you can try dialing that up. Also make sure you're not moving the gun too slowly, which would lay too much material, which can also cause orange peel.
I know your comment was about a year ago however I thought I'd at least throw this in for good measure. Remove the airflow control valve from the hose to increase your airflow. It's night and day difference. Control the airflow on the gun.
You are correct. There is not a lot of over spray with the Fuji Semi Pro 2 and also not a lot of wasted material. I have sprayed directly on my work table with only a piece of cardboard to cover the area. The over spray that does come off is fairly fine (much like the spray itself). Thanks for checking out my video! Hope you will take a look at my new video that I post tonight to answer the question (from wwh2694) regarding using the 3M cup system.
Yeah, I definitely have noticed the longer dry time, however, I really like the finish after it has dried and cured. I did try the BM Command to see if it had the nice finish and quicker dry time and not sure I had a significantly different experience on the dry time. It was quicker but it did not seem too different than my experience with the Advance. I sprayed it on some planters I built - they have been baking in the sun on my deck and getting watered every day and still look amazing. Thanks for commenting.
I have not had orange peel when rolling, brushing, or spraying Advance - when spraying with my HVLP the coats are pretty light, but rolling and brushing are heavier coats - I do find it takes a while to dry, perhaps allowing it to level out... I have been very happy with Advance, however, I am going to give BM Command a try this weekend as the dry/cure time for Command is supposedly very good.
@@yvainbrassard-cf5mp Plan on doing a video for anyone that may be interested in using it - I just picked up a gallon of Command from my local BM store and will be spraying some outdoor planters with it. Looking forward to giving it a try!
Thanks for the comment - how much do you thin the Advance to use the 1.3 mm cap set with a your SP2? I initially tried the 1.5 mm cap set but was not able to get a good result. The 2.0 mm cap set and between 8 and 10 percent thinning worked well for me with the Advance.
Great Video! You answered all my questions with respect spray tip, finish and paint thining with respect latex type finishes.
Thanks for checking out my video and leaving a kind comment - good luck on your finishing projects!
Great video! Just what I needed. For a total newbie trying to repaint kitchen cabinets with Fuji Mini-Mite 3 platinum, what paint and primer would you recommend? I’m thinking of buying 2.0mm cap and the flexible hose attachment as well.
Thank you for checking out my video and the kind comments! Repainting kitchen cabinets is also on my to do list - seems like a lot of people are updating their kitchens. I was planning on using Stix primer and BM Advance for mine as I like how this combo turns out and I can spray it with my Fuji SP2. Recently I have received some comments on another BM product called Command. Apparently all the benefits of Advance but dries a lot faster. I have never used it but went ahead and bought a gallon to try on a bunch of outdoor planters I am finishing building right now - so going to try the Stix and Command combo this weekend - will be posting a video of the results if you are interested. I don't think you can go wrong with the BM Advance, however, the dry time can be challenging... I had good results with the 2.0 capset and have been using the whip hose (not as flexible as you would think but definitely lighter and more maneuverable) for quite some time. I have a few other videos that you may find useful if you are new to spraying with a Fuji turbine - they are posted on my channel. Good luck with your kitchen project!
Stix is great. Unfortunately it doesn’t do well with blocking stains. I painted some cabinets a few weeks ago and yellow stains appeared on almost every door and some cabinets, luckily it was after priming it and not the top coat. I had ran out to Home Depot to get BIN shellac. It did great on blocking the stains.
@@Da-veed thanks for the response!
Thanks for posting this. I just watched and commented on another of your videos comparing different cups for the Fuji Semi-Pro 2. As I mentioned in my comments there, I'll be using my Fuji Hobby Pro 2 tomorrow for the first time (same as the Semi-Pro 2 except it's black, not blue, and it comes with a 1.8mm spray cap installed instead of the 1.3 that comes with the Semi-Pro 2. Perfect timing seeing this, as I'll be painting with Benjamin Moore Advance after priming with Zinsser BIN. From all I've read that BIN won't need thinning, and the approx 10% water thinning for the Advance should thin it enough to work with the 1.8 spray cap. Great to see this here!
Thanks for the comment. I thinned the paint (Benjamin Moore Advance) and primer (Insl-X Stix) about 8% and sprayed with the 2.0mm capset and was very happy with the result. I don't have any experience with the Zinsser BIN with my HVLP - but I have used it before with a roller with good results, seem to recall that it is shellac based. Curious why you chose the Zinsser BIN - always interested in what works well and as importantly in what situations! Also interested in cleanup if it is shellac based - does that mean clean up with alcohol? I am a big fan of the Fuji turbines and also the Benjamin Moore Advance. My only quibble with the Advance is that it takes a long time to cure, however, once cured it is very resilient and looks great. Good luck tomorrow!
@@warrentonwoodworks
Chicagoland Painter here. Our local BM Retailer, JC Licht, started carrying Ilva Paints. With the hardener additive, it dries to touch in 45 minutes and cures in 12 hours. Yes. It works. It's comparable to Fine Paints of Europe if you're familiar.
Haven't seen Ilva at my local BM store or ever used a hardener additive. Curious if after adding the hardener do you have to use the material within a certain time? Interesting.
@@warrentonwoodworks no, I asked the same thing to the Rep. it evaporates out. Still, to be safe, I mixed only what I needed in a 1QT cup. But yeah, they did say it's supposed to evaporate out. It works. Scratched it with a key the next day. Dented the wood, didn't scratch the paint.
Nice! I will have to check it out - my current goto's are Advance for indoor stuff and Command or GF Milk Paint for outdoor, these have yet to let me down! Appreciate you sharing your experience with the Ilva paints and hardener additive.
Which air cap? I’ve been spraying INSL-X Cabinet Coat using a 1.5 tip and a #9 air cap thinned at 10%. Fantastic results. Pre 3M 4 turbine Accuspray system. I use the 3M disposables too. They’re awesome.
I'm using Fuji Semi-Pro 2 with the 2.0mm capset - I also thinned about 10%. Very happy with the results. Getting ready to try INSL-X primer and BM Command combo on some outdoor planters, going to stick with the 2.0mm capset, not sure about thinning yet as I have not used Command before.
Thanks for the info. Looking at buying this unit and I've learned a lot.
I don't think you can go wrong with the SP2 - I have been very happy with mine over the last 6+ years! Thanks for checking out my video.
Thanks I have a 1.8 needle and aircap set for mine so hopefully will spray the B M paint
I have been happy with the BM Advance paint - it looks great and is pretty resilient. I was really happy I was able to spray it with my SP2 as it is so much faster and better looking than rolling/brushing. I thinned the paint about 8-10% and used a 2.0mm cap set - my 1.5mm was a fail... Thanks for checking out my video and good luck with the 1.8mm cap set.
@@warrentonwoodworks Both 1.8 and even 1.5 are doable. My BM dealer is the biggest in the state. On his advice, I thinned to 20%+. He told me that 2.0 is asking for orange peel. For your own home (no rental) thin to make it work with a 1.5mm tip. I know that it violates the TDS. They move more Advance than anyone in the state. He said there have been no issues with durability.
@@warrentonwoodworks Also, just FYI, Advance in bright whites will yellow pretty bad. BM fully admits it. I was an Advance guy until I discovered Scuff-X. Then my BM dealer encouraged me to try Corrotech command. Both Ben Moore products are superior to Advance in pretty much every way. Starting with being non-yellowing.
Appreciate the info on the Command product - I will definitely give it a try especially after reading about the dry/cure time - that is the only thing I don't like about Advance. I also like that it is waterborne and a single component product - both wins for me! If it can be used on a shop floor it's got to be resilient - has that been your experience? Any downsides? Thankfully I have not had any yellowing with the Advance product or had anyone complain about it. Thanks again for the tip on the Command product.
I did try the 1.5 capset and was not able to get a nice spray pattern - it was just too spotty. Have not been comfortable with thinning more than 8-10%. I'm sure at 20% you can get a better pattern - if the BM dealer is fine with 20% maybe next time I will be more comfortable increasing the water, however, I have always been afraid of messing with the manufacturers "chemistry". So far I have been happy with the 2.0 capset, Advance, and 8-10% thinning combo and haven't had any issues with orange peel. Appreciate the info, looking forward to giving the Command product a go!
I love my Fuji and the BM Advanced. I re-did my kitchen cabinets during Covid and they look as good as the originals. Need to paint some doors and actually looking forward to it.
We must have the same to do list - I have to do my cabinets and a bunch of doors...
Smashing video, very informative to a newcomer like me so thank you! I've been trying to spray a water based gloss paint with absolutely no success at all with my new Semi-Pro 2. It either spatters out when thinned to the fastest viscosity runout time or if I thin it even more so it doesn't spatter it just dries like chalk dust. I've been using Floetrol to 20% but it doesn't help me. Fuji tells me it won't spray these, after I bought it, but I'm wondering if you've ever achieved a good gloss finish. I've tried 1.8 and 2.0 cap sets. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you for the very kind words! I do use Floetrol with latex paint when rolling/brushing walls and trim to reduce brush and roller marks, however, don't typically use it when spraying - I would try spraying w/o the Floetrol, and thin to no more than 10 percent using water -- check the data sheet for the paint you are spraying - the manufacturer will have guidelines for how much thinning you can do - or - just try 8-10 percent water with your paint and spray on some test pieces. Definitely stick with the larger 2.0 cap set. I was able to spray Stix primer (very thick) using around 10 percent water and the 2.0 cap set - you may be able to go even higher with the water than 10 percent but that always concerns me and the 10 percent worked for me. I have not used gloss - I usually stick with satin, however, think you should be able to get nice results either way with the SP2. Good luck and let me know if the 10 percent water works.
@@warrentonwoodworks Thank you very much for answering my question, I really appreciate your time and help. I originally tried 10% then went to 20% but both were far too thick for the SP2 unfortunately. I had a reply from Fuji today and their response was that the SP2 was only a 5psi unit and consequently I would need to thin the paint I'm trying to use to a point that it would lose its sheen. That's exactly what happened to me unfortunately. At least I know now that the SP2 isn't capable of spraying water based gloss paint. I just wish I'd known that before I'd bought it. Thanks again for your reply! Keep spraying! 👍😁
@@elguapo1507 Geez, sorry to hear that but thank you for the info - would never have guessed the gloss is so difficult to deal with. Good luck with all your projects.
You might want to try wiping down the hvlp gun with lacquer thinner after your initial soap and water wash. Toss the rags outside when you are done of course.
I have not tried wiping down with lacquer thinner - curious if it would take off the old dried on paint? Will have to give it a try.
I use the 1.8mm tip, and it's a bit of a push to get thinned paint out, with my SemiPro2
Interesting to see other people using a different tip.
Thank you for checking out my video and the comment - I have been pretty happy with the 2.0mm cap set but I do thin ~ 8 to 10 percent for Stix and BM Advance. I am able to spray w/o thinning using Graco TC Pro but I don't think the finish is as nice and I use a ton more paint...
Thanks for sharing. I have a Mini 3 and not have sprayed latex before, I find it interesting the amount of thinning and cap sets different folks use with Advance.
Thanks for checking out my video! I did try spraying Advance w/o thinning and with a smaller cap set but was not able to get a good spray pattern on my SP2. Thankfully 8-10% thinning and a 2.0mm cap set seemed to do the trick for me. I do like the Advance, however, at the suggestion of @ILruffian in a comment on one of my videos I am going to give BM Command a try - seems like the best aspects of Advance w/o the long dry/cure time.
@@warrentonwoodworks I have brushed and rolled Command but I would have to say it would be best sprayed as it dries so fast it was had to keep a wet edge. I do have some of the Command left over and since the gun it new to me I am going to try it. Thanks again
Did you ever spray the BM Command? How did it spray and how is the quality of paint and finish compared to Advance?@@warrentonwoodworks
@@garrettlmorton I did spray the BM Command on some outdoor planters (ua-cam.com/video/ZNHq6MVf9PQ/v-deo.html) and a concrete wall (ua-cam.com/video/3WMk66PLyoc/v-deo.html). It is now one of my goto outdoor paints. I sprayed it with my Fuji Semi-Pro 2 (thinned) and also with my Graco Airless and both did a great job with it. It didn't dry and cure as fast as they advertise but it is faster than Advance. The finish is great - comparable to Advance, maybe not quite as "soft" to the touch but very close. I will be spraying my entire concrete foundation soon and will use it on outdoor projects - it's a toss up for me Command or General Finishes Milk Paint for outdoor - both are great and have done well against the elements (sun/rain/snow). I still like the Advance better for indoor projects as it has less odor when spraying/drying/curing, just wish Advance would dry/cure faster.
Was there any orange peel effect with the Benny Moore advanced? I ask as I just purchased the Fuji semi pro 2 and would be using Sherwin-Williams Emerald Enamel and I am trying to acquire a cabinet finish.
I did not have any orange peel with BM Advance - very happy with the finish, although it does take a while to dry and fully cure. I have gone to using box fans with filters to speed it along... Also the Fuji Semi-Pro 2 has been a game changer for me - I've gone from someone who used to hate the finishing process to really enjoying it! Good luck on your spraying projects and hope you enjoy your new sprayer!
@@warrentonwoodworks thank you kindly Sir!
Anytime. Good luck!
Hi I have one semi pro 2 with the gand cup on top of the gun but I’d like to add a bigger cup but I don’t know if it’s possible
I don't know that Fuji makes a larger cup for the gravity fed M Series gun, but guessing that 3M does - you would have to get an adapter for their 3M PPS 2.0 system. I am doing this for my M Series gun but don't have the gravity fed one. Check out 3M's site for their PPS 2.0 options for your gun. Good Luck!
So you used Benjamin Moore advanced lacquer paint?
I used Benjamin Moore Advance - it is a waterborne alkyd paint. It is my goto for indoor projects, I have sprayed, rolled, and brushed it and really like the finish, however, it does take a bit of time to dry and cure.
@@warrentonwoodworkssi the one you used is water base
Cuz most of the brand is oil base
@@warrentonwoodworkshow do you think that paint?
I like the Advance and also the Benjamin Moore Command - I use Advance for indoor projects and Command for outdoor projects. They both have a great finish, and are easy to clean up. They also both take a while to dry and fully cure. Very happy with Benjamin Moore products.
I like your miter saw dust hood lol.
Thanks! Surprisingly it works really well on 90 degree cuts - between the force of the rotating saw throwing the dust toward the chute at the back and the dust collection running I am super happy with it. Admittedly it is not great when cutting miters and kinda a pain to scoot the bin one direction or the other for the mitered cuts, but works well enough for now!
Was your spray booth sufficient to contain the overspray? What are the dimensions of your booth?
Yes, it does a good job containing the over spray - one of the nice things with the Fuji SP2 is that I do not have a ton of over spray. I find I have a lot more over spray with my airless which I try to use outside... My current spray booth can be configured in a bunch of sizes I tend to use small (74"x42"x80" LxWxH), medium (84"x74"x80"), and large (122"x74"x80") basic configurations. I posted a free model with dimensions on my website, you can download it from here www.warrentonwoodworks.com/images/projects/spraybooth/SprayBoothModel.pdf. Checkout my video on some things to consider when building your own spray booth ua-cam.com/video/NWdfCnLsypU/v-deo.html, and a demo setup/teardown ua-cam.com/video/ovi2kZsAnPo/v-deo.html of the one I made - if interested. Thanks for checking out my video!
good primer and paint
Thank you for checking out my video. I agree - these have become my "go to" combo for indoor furniture.
Hello great video can u show us how u convert the spray gun to 3m with the adaptor.
I was planning on doing a short video on using the 3M system with a Fuji SP2. I had questions about what was needed when I made the switch. Thanks for checking out my video and I will try and get something up this weekend.
Just need to screw the 3M adapter into the gun, uploading the video now that includes various cup options, including 3M PPS 2.0 H/O 13.5 oz Midi size cup - check out the comments for the right adapter - hardest part is finding the right adapter...
@@warrentonwoodworks 100%. There is no conversion lesson needed. But you will spend a lot of time with charts (and possibly making calls) to find out which adapter you need for your gun.
Great video. I have a Fuji Q5 I use for painting motorcycle parts. It works quite well. I am curious about your trick with using the Saran wrap on the 1 gallon containers. Does this help preserve the paint somehow?
Thank you, very kind. I generally use the heavy duty, gallon size, zip lock bags or in some cases Saran wrap between the lid and the container -- I have found it helps to prevent rust and paint from forming and drying on the bottom of the lid and eventually dropping into the can when I re-open it. I started doing this years ago with left over house paint after a bunch of dried crap dropped into the paint when I re-opened it -- it seems to work pretty well so I have just stuck with it. It probably also does help seal the can better too! Every time I open a gallon of paint I am amazed that someone has not come up with a better lid system - we have cars that run on batteries but still messing with old paint can technology.
Some quart cans come with the plastic cans and lids and are easy to wipe clean. I haven’t seen rust on these paint cans yet. I gonna start keeping them for leftover paint.
I did notice the last gallon of poly I purchased had a plastic lid that snapped into the can - it did not occur to me to keep the can+lid for storing other material after cleaning it out - great idea - Thanks!
Just read a tip regarding thinning latex with 25% Floetrol and 50% water based polyeurethane. Sounds way excessive to me but a 1.3 tip supposedly can then be used. Guy was only using a 3 stage hvlp ! Mines a 4 stage, but i always figured you needed a 5 or 6 to do latex.
Gotta try it i guess.
Hmm, sounds like a bit of a science experiment to me - I have successfully sprayed latex, thinning 8-10% with water, and using a 2.0mm cap set with my Semi Pro 2. I use Floetrol when brushing and rolling to extend open time and reduce brush and roller marks. You should be able to get a nice coat spraying latex if you thin with water and use an appropriate capset. Think I would pass on the latex+Floetrol+poly and stick with water - Good luck!
@@warrentonwoodworks LOL - yeah possibly. I homed in on it searching for latex use with a 1.3 tip which is the only one i have. Cap sets for my Maxum2 gun are close to $100 a set, so i really dont want to guess what will work.
Ill let you know if i try the science experiment :)
You jumped from 1.3 to 2.0 which you said wasn’t 100%. Do you think a 1.8 could have produced a better result.
Thanks for the comment! For me I think the 2.0 capset is best. My experience is the Fuji SP2 rocks poly and stain but struggles a little with the thicker materials. That said, I do think it produces a pretty good finish if you thin appropriately - I go around 8-10 percent based on the manufacturers recommendations with Advance. I think it is generally safe to thin most materials 10 percent and have seen others go as high as 20 percent with Advance - the amount you thin will determine the capsets you can spray with... Thinner material like poly is fine with the 1.3 mm... I feel like thinning 10 percent and using a 2.0 capset is best for me when spraying Advance with my Fuji SP2 - I don't think I would get better results with the 1.8 capset as I'm not sure the Fuji SP 2 would atomize the material (thinned ~10 percent) sufficiently (YMMV). This is the issue I had with the smaller capset, it was not able to atomize the Advance sufficiently and the spray was spotty and I was not able to get a good fan pattern. The 2.0 capset does a good job atomizing the Advance when thinned ~10 percent and I think you can see the quality of the finish at the end of the video. Thanks again for the comment and good luck on your spraying projects!
I purchased the Fuji Mini Mite 4, but I have been experiencing orange peel issues, even when just using a primer. Specifically, I have been using SW Extreme Blocker Oil Based primer, which had an out-of-can viscosity of 45s. I thinned 10% and later to 15% but still get orange peel, and when I spray vertically, I even get runs when thinned so much. I have experimented with different fan sizes and flow rates, but I am still not getting the fine finish I desire.
I have been using a 1.8mm tip as that is what Fuji recommends for oil based and enamel paints, but I cannot get it to spray a fine-looking finish. I am going to try a smaller tip and see how that does. Any suggestions to try to get a smooth fine finish.
Unfortunately I do not have experience with the material you are spraying or the Fuji Mini Mite 4 - when I spray paint/primer I use a 2.0mm cap set and spray BM Advance, Command, and Insl-X Stix primer. I do thin between 8 and 10 percent. I spray many light coats vs fewer heavier coats. My Fuji SP 2 is definitely going to spray less material than your 4 stage Mini Mite. I think I would stick with the 10 percent thinning (assuming that is recommended on the SW DS for the product you are spraying) and try more lighter coats vs fewer heavier coats - if you get runs or orange peel any time savings from fewer coats is lost... You may be able to use a smaller cap set with the Mini Mite 4 but I cannot with my SP2 - I have tried and could not get a decent spray pattern. I wish you luck in finding the right combination of material, cap set, fan pattern, and air volume - it definitely can be frustrating. Maybe worth trying some cheap paint/primer on Home Depot/Lowes cardboard boxes to dial in your material volume when you are not too concerned about what you are spraying or where it is going -- try lighter coats on vertical cardboard and see what works. Good luck!
Orange peel can have multiple causes. The usual cause is simply not enough atomization of the material. Even then, there can be differing reasons for not enough atomization. In GENERAL, it may be caused by too much fluid so your gun/system does not have enough air/force to atomize what's coming out of the tip. This CAN be caused by to big of a tip, but there's a limit on how small you can go because of the viscosity. You might want to try dialing down the fluid flow rate of the gun before going with a smaller tip. If the Mini Mite has an adjustable air output, you can try dialing that up. Also make sure you're not moving the gun too slowly, which would lay too much material, which can also cause orange peel.
Have you considered the ambient temperature, it can make a huge difference to the finished results.
I know your comment was about a year ago however I thought I'd at least throw this in for good measure. Remove the airflow control valve from the hose to increase your airflow. It's night and day difference. Control the airflow on the gun.
Thanks for good video. I don't see much overspray at all. Would please tell me more about overspary?
You are correct. There is not a lot of over spray with the Fuji Semi Pro 2 and also not a lot of wasted material. I have sprayed directly on my work table with only a piece of cardboard to cover the area. The over spray that does come off is fairly fine (much like the spray itself). Thanks for checking out my video! Hope you will take a look at my new video that I post tonight to answer the question (from wwh2694) regarding using the 3M cup system.
He is spot on. Overspray with HVLP is minimum. Anything outside a 4-6 foot radius will land as dry powder that you can sweep up.
Can you please comment on how noisy the unit is? You’re wearing hearing protection so I’m assuming it is pretty loud.
I would compare it to a shop vac - perhaps a little higher in pitch.
It has long hose, I keep the unit outside the garage with the door open a crack.
@@jamesholecek2211 Good idea - also probably cuts down on the amount of dried spray that gets into the filters. Just have to watch out for rain...
I tried this paint a few times but I decided that I don't like it b/c of dry time.
Yeah, I definitely have noticed the longer dry time, however, I really like the finish after it has dried and cured. I did try the BM Command to see if it had the nice finish and quicker dry time and not sure I had a significantly different experience on the dry time. It was quicker but it did not seem too different than my experience with the Advance. I sprayed it on some planters I built - they have been baking in the sun on my deck and getting watered every day and still look amazing. Thanks for commenting.
Do you ever get a orange peel effect using advance??
I have not had orange peel when rolling, brushing, or spraying Advance - when spraying with my HVLP the coats are pretty light, but rolling and brushing are heavier coats - I do find it takes a while to dry, perhaps allowing it to level out... I have been very happy with Advance, however, I am going to give BM Command a try this weekend as the dry/cure time for Command is supposedly very good.
@@warrentonwoodworks thank you, let me know how that works, or if it’s better, 👍
@@yvainbrassard-cf5mp Plan on doing a video for anyone that may be interested in using it - I just picked up a gallon of Command from my local BM store and will be spraying some outdoor planters with it. Looking forward to giving it a try!
I use a 1.3
Thanks for the comment - how much do you thin the Advance to use the 1.3 mm cap set with a your SP2? I initially tried the 1.5 mm cap set but was not able to get a good result. The 2.0 mm cap set and between 8 and 10 percent thinning worked well for me with the Advance.