Wonderful! I asked for this not too long ago and you promised one was coming. Here we go! ;). It will be a while before I can dig into my ftn, but I'll have seen this a few times. Many thanks!!!
Hi Kenneth, Your video on removing the top of a Nikkormat was great. It helped me clean out years of dust from the viewfinder. Unfortunately, the camera has developed a jumpy light meter. Can you do a video on cleaning and/or replacing the resistor ring that is part of the aperture and shutter speed dial? Thanks.
Hey Kenneth! I just ran into your repair for the FTN. I have managed to put together and fix a Nikkormat FT2. Everything seems accurate, and the light meter works. My question is, the ASA dial is also very stiff on it. Is it safe to say that the FTN and FT2 are similar in which I can follow these steps to try and loosen it? Thanks in advance
Hello Kenneth, I've had a problem removing the bayonet base screws when I was removing it from a Nikkormat to do the cleaning procedure like you, they were cross type screws but they won't budge. i've tried heating them with a soldering iron but no success. I've also applied some alcohol thinking that they had some thread lock on them, but still no success. Can you offer me some advice as to how to remove them?
I couldn't remove the bayonet base screws due to the lock tight used. I tried the same procedure as you, but tried with nail polish remover with acetone. It works in most cases, but not here, so I stopped before ruining the screws, so you could say I did not go "all the way" with the procedure..
@@TomFindahl The only other option that comes to my mind is to cut the head with a Dremel to fit a slotted screwdriver and use a screwdriver with a thick handle, but that would only make the small metal bits fly around, you'd have to be extremely careful and try to isolate the screwheads from the rest of the camera. It can be done, but at what cost... At that point you'd have to replace the screws.
@@vladislavstanimirovic9650 When the nikkormats where made, lock tight was not invented yet. What was used was a glue with hardener which can be dissolved with heat.
@@vladislavstanimirovic9650 I've discussed this issue with my mentor, which has been a camera tech for 40 years, and he said that very often the heat from a soldering iron is not enough.
Hi Kenneth, Great Part 1 video! Glad my FTN works properly. It's good to know I can use your video when the time comes for repair, Thanks.
Wonderful! I asked for this not too long ago and you promised one was coming. Here we go! ;). It will be a while before I can dig into my ftn, but I'll have seen this a few times. Many thanks!!!
Excellent video. I always wanted to find out how it was done.
Hi Kenneth,
Your video on removing the top of a Nikkormat was great. It helped me clean out years of dust from
the viewfinder. Unfortunately, the camera has developed a jumpy light meter. Can you do a video on
cleaning and/or replacing the resistor ring that is part of the aperture and shutter speed dial?
Thanks.
Hey Kenneth! I just ran into your repair for the FTN. I have managed to put together and fix a Nikkormat FT2. Everything seems accurate, and the light meter works. My question is, the ASA dial is also very stiff on it. Is it safe to say that the FTN and FT2 are similar in which I can follow these steps to try and loosen it? Thanks in advance
If you use plastic container for the ultrasonic cleaner aren't you in effect dambening the sound waves? Afaik, glass is recommended.
Hello Kenneth, I've had a problem removing the bayonet base screws when I was removing it from a Nikkormat to do the cleaning procedure like you, they were cross type screws but they won't budge. i've tried heating them with a soldering iron but no success. I've also applied some alcohol thinking that they had some thread lock on them, but still no success. Can you offer me some advice as to how to remove them?
I couldn't remove the bayonet base screws due to the lock tight used. I tried the same procedure as you, but tried with nail polish remover with acetone. It works in most cases, but not here, so I stopped before ruining the screws, so you could say I did not go "all the way" with the procedure..
@@TomFindahl The only other option that comes to my mind is to cut the head with a Dremel to fit a slotted screwdriver and use a screwdriver with a thick handle, but that would only make the small metal bits fly around, you'd have to be extremely careful and try to isolate the screwheads from the rest of the camera. It can be done, but at what cost... At that point you'd have to replace the screws.
@@vladislavstanimirovic9650 I put it on hold so far..
@@vladislavstanimirovic9650 When the nikkormats where made, lock tight was not invented yet. What was used was a glue with hardener which can be dissolved with heat.
@@vladislavstanimirovic9650 I've discussed this issue with my mentor, which has been a camera tech for 40 years, and he said that very often the heat from a soldering iron is not enough.