Great video. Just an FYI, if a person is going to be working with SFIC regularly= you really need to get keyway testers. It'll cost like 60 or 70$ in Blanks. I have mine segmented on a large ring- attached to it are a smaller group of keys/ 1 FM, you use this first as these are the most common keyways. If your FM fits= than it has to be a A,D,E,F ,or G. If not= I use an JKLM key blank. This is an expensive one, I paid 14 for it, but if it fits= it has to be a JLK or M keyway. I have these on their own smaller ring attached to my larger one also. (You DO need each individual letter as the keyways that can use FM or JKLM cannot be inserted into each other.) If it is neither= you've eliminated have the basic key types. Than you simply go through the rest, B,C,H,P,R, etc. Also, as an aside, Best has it's Standard edition keyway types- those are all the ones I've mentioned. They also have what I call- the T series, which start with a letter T and some other secondary Letter. You will almost Never find these anywhere. There is also a few oddballs like the DD, BA, etc, I assume they added these on right after the created the standard key set for more options. They made the T series as the are more para-centric. Now, you also have the W series. Well, I've talked to plenty of locksmiths and most= never even heard of them. I've also contacted a few company's who sell locksmithing gear, locks, doorknobs, etc. They DO sell them, but they a more expensive than the standards and almost never sell. Plus because the keyways are SO exaggerated they are not easy to cut even with the proper machine, they have a tendency to squish the side rails on a key, which is probably also why they almost never get sold. I've looked at thousands of SFIC's and have never seen one, and they are crazy enough that you'd notice. Just my 2 cents on that. If you are NOT going to be working with SFIC's a lot, well, trying to identify a keyway off of just eyeballing it and comparing, might be hard.
First time iv heard the best locks called the FFIC core! I worked for best locks in Canada. Very cool. We usually called them by the keyway and 6 or 7 pin set up. 👌👌
Very well executed, I don’t use a pick to lift pins though, I actually use an eyeglass screwdriver that I machined down to the perfect size to push up thru the eviction holes at the bottom of the core and I use leather or cloth instead of cardboard as it’s less likely to slip away.
awesome info! Wish I had seen this before disassembling that identical core with plug follower,operating key works but control key does not,core will not go into lock body because of that,wondering what you think,should i try again and repin from top? Thanks
How do you tell the difference between the A2, A3, and A4? I understand that there are different pin stack lengths, but is there a way to tell by the key itself or the keyway used? Trying to measure root cut depth on old well-used keys is difficult. Thanks!
+redcatimaging no prob. I can't wait to make that tensioner. Picking the 6 pin SFIC isn't too bad, but I can't get the 7 pin BESTs to turn over. Hopefully it'll be breeze with it. I saw another way of picking to the control shear line that uses a blank cut in half, but it only works on SFICs that are mastered... I might make them both for the lulz. Thanks for watching!
I only had some sfic cores as a lent some time ago, could only pick them to control, never to operating ;D. As I said, I'm very curious about your tool(s) too :).
Pressure fit. It would be similar to a roll pin, or the "rivet" that holds a bicycle chain together. The tolerance is very tight. The cap is pretty much exactly the same diametre as the chamber. Not close enough that it is impossible to put in (or take out), but close enough that it requires "encouragement" to move.
+GEORGE EPIC GOODHUE thanks, man and good luck! Try clksupplies for the blanks. I found them after this vid. Only $0.68 per blank. Pick up some springs and caps just in case you bust any of them.
+Leon's lockpad thank you! It was fun researching this stuff. Very interesting solution for commercial lock applications. I want to go back in time to the board meeting where the guy first pitched this idea to see the look on everybody's face.
Apologies mate. I'd say give it a whirl. Nothing's ever permanently broken with these things. If it don't work, try something new. If all else fails, cut a new control key with the new pin out. I'm impressed that you were able to reassemble using a plug follower. As soon as I did what you did, my head exploded and figured there's no way I could get it back together. Good luck!
Lol! Thanks so much for getting back! So I did no research before taking it apart I figured it was a gutting like others! I have done it at least 3 times now operating key works but I cannot get core back in lock because control key doesn't allow me the slight rotation so yeah I have it sitting on a pinning tray,it can be seen in most of my videos its now a fixture,I was not aware of gutting from the top,I am fairly new to this game and wouldnt know how to prepare another control key and repin that shear line.Thanks though for responding,hope you can enjoy my channel still,you have an incredible channel yourself my brother!!
![[480] The Top Ten Nastiest Keyways (In My Collection)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GncYzuRMtb8/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Just an FYI, if a person is going to be working with SFIC regularly= you really need to get keyway testers. It'll cost like 60 or 70$ in Blanks. I have mine segmented on a large ring- attached to it are a smaller group of keys/ 1 FM, you use this first as these are the most common keyways. If your FM fits= than it has to be a A,D,E,F ,or G. If not= I use an JKLM key blank. This is an expensive one, I paid 14 for it, but if it fits= it has to be a JLK or M keyway. I have these on their own smaller ring attached to my larger one also. (You DO need each individual letter as the keyways that can use FM or JKLM cannot be inserted into each other.) If it is neither= you've eliminated have the basic key types. Than you simply go through the rest, B,C,H,P,R, etc. Also, as an aside, Best has it's Standard edition keyway types- those are all the ones I've mentioned. They also have what I call- the T series, which start with a letter T and some other secondary Letter. You will almost Never find these anywhere. There is also a few oddballs like the DD, BA, etc, I assume they added these on right after the created the standard key set for more options. They made the T series as the are more para-centric. Now, you also have the W series. Well, I've talked to plenty of locksmiths and most= never even heard of them. I've also contacted a few company's who sell locksmithing gear, locks, doorknobs, etc. They DO sell them, but they a more expensive than the standards and almost never sell. Plus because the keyways are SO exaggerated they are not easy to cut even with the proper machine, they have a tendency to squish the side rails on a key, which is probably also why they almost never get sold. I've looked at thousands of SFIC's and have never seen one, and they are crazy enough that you'd notice. Just my 2 cents on that. If you are NOT going to be working with SFIC's a lot, well, trying to identify a keyway off of just eyeballing it and comparing, might be hard.
First time iv heard the best locks called the FFIC core! I worked for best locks in Canada. Very cool. We usually called them by the keyway and 6 or 7 pin set up. 👌👌
I came back to review this a second time. Very helpful.
Just the vid I needed! Great job!
Very well executed, I don’t use a pick to lift pins though, I actually use an eyeglass screwdriver that I machined down to the perfect size to push up thru the eviction holes at the bottom of the core and I use leather or cloth instead of cardboard as it’s less likely to slip away.
I have a Best core with “TL3” stamped on it. Any idea how I can acquire a key blank for this?
awesome info!
Wish I had seen this before disassembling that identical core with plug follower,operating key works but control key does not,core will not go into lock body because of that,wondering what you think,should i try again and repin from top? Thanks
Great video and i got a quick question where can i get those best keys locks with best keys
Amazing Work! Exactly what I needed. Thank you
How do you tell the difference between the A2, A3, and A4? I understand that there are different pin stack lengths, but is there a way to tell by the key itself or the keyway used? Trying to measure root cut depth on old well-used keys is difficult. Thanks!
Awesome plain information. Thanks.
Excellent
Can i gut the lock with follower?
Great video :D. I can't wait to see part 3 which tool you come up to pick them to control :). Thank you for sharing, it's really helpful.
+redcatimaging no prob. I can't wait to make that tensioner. Picking the 6 pin SFIC isn't too bad, but I can't get the 7 pin BESTs to turn over. Hopefully it'll be breeze with it. I saw another way of picking to the control shear line that uses a blank cut in half, but it only works on SFICs that are mastered... I might make them both for the lulz. Thanks for watching!
I only had some sfic cores as a lent some time ago, could only pick them to control, never to operating ;D. As I said, I'm very curious about your tool(s) too :).
Can you impression these?
Very nice overview - let me know if I can help in any way!
+Jeff Moss will do. Thank you so much!
Wow great video. Very nicely explained - thank you for taking the time :-)
+Potti314 You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
How are the caps held in place?
Pressure fit. It would be similar to a roll pin, or the "rivet" that holds a bicycle chain together. The tolerance is very tight. The cap is pretty much exactly the same diametre as the chamber. Not close enough that it is impossible to put in (or take out), but close enough that it requires "encouragement" to move.
Awesome Thank You
What happened to 3 and 4
Thanks for making this video i just order a master sfic and it came with no keys at all but with your video i should be able to make some keys!!!
+GEORGE EPIC GOODHUE thanks, man and good luck! Try clksupplies for the blanks. I found them after this vid. Only $0.68 per blank. Pick up some springs and caps just in case you bust any of them.
Where's video 3 and 4?
very helpful video my friend great info😊👍😊😊
+Leon's lockpad thank you! It was fun researching this stuff. Very interesting solution for commercial lock applications. I want to go back in time to the board meeting where the guy first pitched this idea to see the look on everybody's face.
i left comment below could you advise thanks!!!!
Apologies mate. I'd say give it a whirl. Nothing's ever permanently broken with these things. If it don't work, try something new. If all else fails, cut a new control key with the new pin out. I'm impressed that you were able to reassemble using a plug follower. As soon as I did what you did, my head exploded and figured there's no way I could get it back together. Good luck!
Lol! Thanks so much for getting back! So I did no research before taking it apart I figured it was a gutting like others! I have done it at least 3 times now operating key works but I cannot get core back in lock because control key doesn't allow me the slight rotation so yeah I have it sitting on a pinning tray,it can be seen in most of my videos its now a fixture,I was not aware of gutting from the top,I am fairly new to this game and wouldnt know how to prepare another control key and repin that shear line.Thanks though for responding,hope you can enjoy my channel still,you have an incredible channel yourself my brother!!