BUILDING THE DRUM THAT ALMOST KILLED ME, Pt. 1
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2018
- This drum has taught and challenged me more than any other--BY FAR. I've wanted to quit several times, and if the buyer hadn't already paid for the wood, the hardware, and his 50% deposit, I probably would have. I'm glad I didn't. This thing is going to be spectacular!
Finally, sorry about the couple of editing mistakes and the bad volume levels. It's been so long since I did a regular video that I think I'm rusty!
THANKS FOR WATCHING!
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![How to build a Stave Snare Drum 14x6,5 [Part. 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_NfCplNHigI/mqdefault.jpg)
I love watching these videos. Im working on my first build. I keep seeing different things you do, and cant wait to try them. Thanks for posting all of this!
Outstanding! Looks killer!
That shell is going to be beautiful when finished.
Une couleur et un fil de bois sublime. on ne trouve pas ça en France. bravo pour cette réalisation. Je regarde la suite de la vidéo en suivant.
Bravo
You need to pick up a used jointer and table saw equipment for that Shopsmith.
Nice work, Joseph!! I read some of people's comments......for what it is worth, buy a descent table saw and you will not need a joiner. A straight/square table saw with a good blade is the ticket. Out of all my woodworking tools I probably use my joiner the least, bcz my cabinet saw rocks.
Thanks, Bryan! You're right. A good table saw would work wonders. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that a potential and very large future order actually comes through, which would give me enough cash up front to get a decent mid-range hybrid table saw. I want something that's not direct drive, has a cast iron table, and has accurate miter gauges and a rock solid fence. That would solve SO MANY problems in my shop.
I’m excited to see how this one turns out! What kind of hardware to you plan on putting on this one?
Thanks, man! I've got a video coming in the next few days (I hope) that will be the completion of the build plus final assembly and demo.
Man, I get sweaty palms every time you make a cut on that table saw lacking any anti-kickback protection, not even a splitter.
You do incredible work with limited tools though, kudos! I'm about to embark on a mahogany build.
You know, looking back on these projects from a year or more ago, and back to the beginning of the channel, I get sweaty palms, too. While my tools haven't gotten any better--maybe someday I'll be able to afford a nicer saw--my technique and skill have. I work very carefully, and I think it helps that I'm doing any batch work--no projects where I"m doing the same move on the saw for an extended period of time. And sometimes the angle of the camera makes things looks worse than they are.... Thanks for the nice comment and for watching!
@@JosephCenter I'll give a shout out to the DeWalt DWE7480 table saw if you ever want to upgrade. They're always on sale somewhere and the rack and pinion fence is just awesome, saves me so much time. But mostly, it has a riving knife (as all new saws do). I'll admit I rarely have the blade guard on, but the riving knife never leaves. I had a piece of plywood thrown at me once (kickback) while the knife wasn't there, almost broke my arm!
You make me wanna make a drum I wonder what's possible with a drill and three rusty drill bits lol. Thank you Joseph really beautiful shells. Do you sell them?
I don't know about the rusty drill bits, but the drill is helpful! :) Thanks for watching! (And, yes, I do sell them. This one is for a client in the Netherlands, actually.)
What was the size and length of those blanks you used? I would like to build a drum for myself and was just curious about what size I should get?
Hey, Brandon -- It all depends on how big the drum is you want to do. The math is relatively easy, but takes a bit of imagination. If you know the size of each individual stave (this is the best resource for figuring that out, by the way: uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/ ), then, ensuring you account for the kerf of your saws, it's just a matter of fitting those into the board you want to use. You can also use the information provided by that website I just gave you, which estimates the amount of board feet you'll need. I don't find this very helpful, though, and just consider the size of each stave and the width and length of the boards I've got available to choose from. Good luck!
I want to try the endgrain to endgrain look like this....any tips on the glue up?
Depends on the wood. The katalox is incredibly dense with very, very tight end grain. I wasn't worried about the typical problems of end-grain glue-ups, at the top of the list of which is glue absorbing into the end grain and starving the joint. If you're using something domestic like maple or oak or cherry, I've seen some tips for end grain glue ups, including pre-treating the end grain of each joint with a watered down glue to fill the end grain before the final glue up. If you're doing a very dense wood like the katalox, a lot of these are oily which can also interfere with a successful glue up. Just wipe down the grain with mineral spirits right before you apply the glue and you should be fine.
How close did you cut the staves before you actually cut the bevels?
I don't remember how I did it on this build (it was a couple years ago), but now I always cut the bevels in 2 passes. This is especially important with really hard woods (hard maple and harder, really). I make the first pass to gut in the angle, but this usually results in some blade chatter, so I leave it just 1/32" to 1/16" or so over width, after which I make a finishing pass just shaving off the bare minimum needed to bring it to the final width.
Have you ever done one from a cheap 2x4?
Just curious if it would be too soft to mount the lugs without each hole "ovaling" from the pressure, when you screw them down.
Calderwood Percussion did it a number of years ago for the makers' "2x4 Challenge." Here's their result: ua-cam.com/video/71pAwQw8NL8/v-deo.html With proper washers for the material, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Other boutique builders have used cedar to good results. I think if you apply good building techniques it should work just fine. And, frankly, with the extremely low price of material, it would be a great wood for learning on. I've thought about doing a drum from a 2x4 for a while. I might just have to pull the trigger!
Joseph Center
.... yes PLEASE!... but with metal hoops and lugs. Real wires, etc. That way we will hear how it really sounds... l love this channel!
You've inspired me so much that lve started the 2x4 challenge...
Wish me luck. I sent pics to your Facebook inbox.
Hey my friend :) tell do you have every wood excatly dry? how much dampness used? cheers....Hubas
Good question. I once used wood that was not sufficiently dry/seasoned and the shell promptly warped. It was a big problem, because it was the first drum I did on commission. I had to rebuild completely at my own expense. If the wood is not completely dry, I think you can go ahead and still cut and glue staves into the shell blank, but I'd let it sit for a month or so (depending on how wet it is) in a well ventilated area so that it has time to stabilize before you shape it. Warping is easier to deal with before you shape than after. :)
@@JosephCenter thanx do you used some humidity meter? the wood should to be something about 5-6% humidity I would say :) or much better is 8years old and older :) what do you think?:) H
Moisture readers work fine--I got a cheap one and used a tutorial on UA-cam to make sure I was using it right. The time to dry depends on how thick it is. At the outside, they say one year's drying time for every inch of thickness. I've found that things get dryer faster than that, and especially if you keep the wood indoors.
How did that endgrain glue up held up?
Just fine. I don't believe the endgrain glue joint issue is so problematic with tight grained woods, and this stuff is among the tightest. I also saturate end grain and allow it to soak before completing the joint. Anyway, no problems reported by the client, who was repeatedly warned that an endgrain glue up like this was potentially problematic.
@@JosephCenter if the client was warned, then it is their issue not yours!
Why didn't you use the tablesaw to joint the edges? Also, a wise old woodworker said to me once, "what's your time worth?". It stuck with me. So I ask, why do t you pick up a used lunchbox planer? Would save you soo much time. Just a suggestion :)
Gonna look beautiful!
Jason Enz I was curious about this. A table saw would have been easier.
Excellent question. I started to get into that in an explanation that I actually cut out, so I'll put it here: my table saw sucks. Bad. Every time I've tried to joint an edge, I get a very gradual but distinct bow (the fence has some give to it and the surface is far from flat and getting worse). Depending on the wood, I can sometimes "clamp it out" when I'm doing the glue up. Nothing doing here. This wood is so insanely hard, rigid, and dense, that no clamps (okay, maybe a hydraulic press) could manage it. So, why not a lunchbox planer? Shoe string budget, man. I've got no funds to go toward that. Insane amount of money tied up in student loans (like, INSANE) and all my extra income goes straight to that.
Joseph Center In spite of your "basic" tools, you make some damn fine drums! We all can relate to being on a tight budget.
In regard to the wonky fence .. is there enough table real estate so that you could build an auxiliary fence, which would slip over the top of the stock fence (like a sacrificial fence) and could then be clamped at the front and back? That and a basic jointer sled would do the job.
Yeah. So I'm in a bit of limbo right now. I've got this large-scale buyer in the wings who might come through, but he might not. The deposit on his maybe order will be more than enough to get myself a real table saw. If that happens, then my jointing woes--such as that here--are mostly solved. If he doesn't come through, then I am going to rebuilt my table and add a fence system for my a router-based "jointer." Everything here would have worked fine if I hadn't been stupid. (Isn't that just so often the case???)
Please, be careful with your fingers, at least stop the saw when you’re repositioning your stave! 👏The wood is much cheaper than the new hands.
Dude! the wood grains is awesome.
Great work dude!
check out my UA-cam channel too, i recorded a sound test video of my 14x7 solid hollowed javanese rosewood snare drum that i built.
cheers!
Thanks, man! I've seen your shells over on the snare drum love FB page, and have always been very impressed. I would love an opportunity to do some true solid shells. :) I will totally watch your channel, and am glad that you've got one! Cheers to you, too!