You nailed brother.. this was my issue with my 2005 GMC Sierra ... This didn't come and go.. it was just.. WHAM.. no power and was telling me reduced engine power.. I came to UA-cam and watched your video.. I went right out and did what you did and it was the fix.. so thank you.. God bless
I have replaced the main engine grounding wire and the throttle body...but still intermittent on an H2 Hummer. It has been to the shop 3 times...no luck. I found that TPS ground wire by the driver's side door...cleaned it up...SHAZAM...engine light gone...codes gone...running like a champ again! Thanks Dude!!
Thank you very much, I changed the TPS sensor and I hadn't used it for two weeks, and I looked for many videos, and today I watched yours. You saved money for all of us who commented and those who didn't comment, I did it. Thank you very much and good luck.
Before swapping expensive parts check your GROUNDS! All cars/trucks ground to engine, frame and body to complete circuits. That's why you see different ground locations. They can break off, get disconnected/cut, or have bad connections from corrosion. Micro switches, modules, and computers get squirly with bad power or bad grounds. Start with ground cable at battery, and clean the others. My '04, Z71 Burb had a bad ground on back of pass. head so I ran the black/white stripe wire to drivers side firewall ground that was shown with braided flat ground strap. That fixed 4wd. selection switch, ch. eng. lt., no crank, and crazy door locks. A wire brush from H.F. on a drill easily cleans rust on frame, then use wire brush, sandpaper to shine up wire ends, bolts, etc. Carefully clean the 3 wires shown here on frame below drivers seat. Follow smaller ground cable wire down to frame below core support to clean that important one as it also looks like the main computer ground is there. The gas pedal module is bolted to firewall by Master Brake Cylinder and must have a good ground so check that as well. Smear electrical grease on all cleaned connections and reg. grease once bolted tight. Ground cable from batt. to engine block can go bad but pretty unusual. You MUST have good grounds so do that first yourself. Remember the dealer makes a bunch more money replacing expensive parts than cleaning the grounds that affected the part they replaced as comments show. Great video, Thanks.
Thank you! I've done everything, replaced throttle body and TPS sensor, other grounds but I did not know about this ground under the door! I'll try this next
For that ground fix slide the conduit up to make sure both wires are connected. Another ground on frame, drivers side below core support. Single black/white stripe wire back of passenger head. Another by motor mount to block. There's more but those are the usual problem places.
Thanks for the video homie, my 03’ H2 is going through the same issue with no power when I hit the gas… tomorrow I’m gonna try your method cleaning the grounds. I thought it was a transmission problem truthfully. Much appreciated!!
Bro i just drove my tahoe to my bois house and it was fine. Then im gettin ready to leave and no power i was pissed i thought it was gunna be something major or hella expensive. I got home barely got up to 25 30 mph and then watched your video. Life saver bro good shit!!!!
Agreed let’s put corporate gm to shame. I’ve saved so much money and time doing mechanics myself. From watching you and others I know more about my Tahoe. I would like to say thank you for sharing.
Thank you Very Much.. same thing Happened to my truck today, After watching your video This is the first thing i Did and Bam! It work ...... That was it.... Can’t believe something that small can cause some Major Headaches....
I'm having the same issue on a 2005 Sierra 3500. This will be the first thing I check! I have ALOT of rust on the frame and I am guessing I have a ground issue. I will re-post to let everyone else know if this fixes my issue. Thanks so much!
@@phouston6802 I ended up just cleaning and applying dielectric grease to the 2 electrical plugs on the firewall behind the brake fluid container (master cylinder). Unhook your battery first. Haven’t had the problem since.
Thanks for sharing, sure hope mine is this easy to fix. I have a throttle position sensor on order for my 2011 Avalanche due to my reduced power issue that comes up intermittently and puts me on the side of the road. Restart truck and it's fine again but I surely will be checking all these grounds I have been learning about until the TPS gets here.
Thanks man your a life saver! I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 8.1 that just did this. I checked the grounds under the truck first after watching your video. So much rust the frame and bolts were flush. Grinded everything down and it runs perfect.
Really good video. I have a 96 and a 05 suburban and I don’t have any problems yet but still going to check it out hope to save the problem to ever happening. Thank u
You're easy fix to clean the 2 bolts under the driver-side door made the ground connection better. It worked, and saved me hundreds of dollars $ and tons of trips/time paying a mechanic who could NOT find the issue during expensive diagnostic/trouble-shoots. THANK YOU!
You're, the Fucking Man. 2004 GMC Sierra affectionately as "Hanna". She's part of the family. You have saved me from making a rash, decision. Thank you
Excellent, both grounds are an issue. Up here in the rust belt. Ohio/ Michigan are we are under winter A-SALT. I believe there is one more ground behind the passenger head. Our truck frames here are not that clean.
Thx for the video. Don’t have that trouble right now but i was researching why these trucks have such poor throttle response off the line and i can across this. I’ll keep it in my favs.
dealing with same thing on buds wife yukon xlt the battery small ground wire is under the front bumper drivers side also needs cleaned and tightened !...So after lots of searching and videos I came across 1 guys forum post on a GM site. He removed the intake manifold to access those 2 bolts, mounted on back of head/block!....My last thing am in middle of fixing! So the passenger side ground bolt, is top mounted on rear corner of the block , the braided ground to drivers side is horizontally mounted in back side of the head.....With the intake out of the way, REAL easy to repair those 2. BUT I added an extra ground wire along with the braided ground, and relocated both to the side of the head. Bolt fits the hole midway by exhaust manifold. So THIS will be easier to get at later down the road IF needed! Screw the back side of the head location! Reassembling it tomorrow with new intake gaskets also since this Yukon does have 300k on the clock.....Funny, all this nightmare began when truck sat parked for a bit and the battery went dead!! Once I replaced it with a new $130 battery, its been stuck in limp mode throwing DTC P1518 So will see tomorrow IF I finally got this booger fixed! good thing I have short hair or I'd have pulled it out by now ! Engineers should have to work on their shit to see how stupid somethings they do in designing a vehicle is totally idiotic! hahaha
@@budthechud3408 yes cut wires in split loom near brake booster dunno if I did that removing alarm horn or not. Not my typical goof up but it was the issue n fixed it once I repaired wires
Thanks for the video bro. For the ground at 2:40 could you just use a wire and crimp the o shaped connector to it and reground it to the side of the engine/alternator or does it NEED to be grounded to the original location?
I found the solution to this problem. I added more grounds to the frame motor etc and ended up replacing every single sensor related to the gas peddle and a new throttle body. Next i put in a whole brand new wiring harness in the car and a brand new pcm and could not fix the problem. I took it to a guy in Richmond va which had more advanced computers to diagnose the problem and he said that in my case it was like nothing he had ever seen before. He could not find what was causing this problem. So i unbolted everything gad peddle related and literally threw it in the woods and put the cable driven throttle cable on it. Problem is fixed now.
On my 2005 chevy suburban my issue was everytime i let off the gas pedal it boggs down like its going to break down and turn off with slight shake or trembles. It just started. I watched your video sounds like i have the same problems. I will check in it.
Just tried this. My ground was not between two washers (only reason to have two washers), but was instead right up against the body, dirty as hell. So I took it apart and decreased and wire brushed it. Will give is a go later and see if it helped.
Is yours a electric throttle body? I have 2000 yukon and it's crazy but I have a electric throttle body which I thought they didn't start using them on the gm models till around 2002 or 03.
The solution can be much, much simpler. Before you replace a throttle body or an accelerator pedal position sensor, or even clean the grounds or replace ground wires, try this method. Get a can of full strength De-Oxit or Electronic Contact Cleaner. Find the accelerator pedal position sensor (right above the gas pedal) and disconnect the connector between it and the rest of the wiring harness; if you've done this before it may be simple, if you have not and can't get a good look at what you're doing, it can be frustrating, very frustrating. Once apart, spray both parts of the connector(pins and connector sockets) with a generous amount of the spray from either product, and the chemical spray will remove any corrosion in the connections, particularly if you put the parts partially together and work them in and out, then lock them together with the snaps. This bundle of wires controls the throttle position sensor (i.e. the sensor that moves throttle plate position inside the throttle body). After removing the plastic cover plate on top of the engine, find the closest connector to the throttle body, separate the two halves as you did with the other sensor down by the throttle pedal and generously spray both the pins and sockets in the connector halves, and put them back together using the same technique as you did with the first connector. Wait a few minutes for all the chemical spray to evaporate. The vehicle should start now with no more money lights or codes. If not, start working on the various ground wires and connectors as described in this video. To see how tricky these problems can be, watch part one and part two of D-Ray Smith's video on fixing this problem on his 2010 Chevy 2500 HD, published on UA-cam on or about June 25, 2011. D-Ray is a country genius on diagnosing and fixing trucks.
@@4fletch75 Amazon.DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw. There are several varieties. This is the latest, improved version.I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71 that I bought new. Our new car got destroyed in a rear-ender, my son had the Z71 at his house, he had parked it because the low-power message, etc. We needed something to drive. It took me 5 to 10 minutes with De-Oxit to cure all these problems, and I hopped in it and drove it home, 100 miles, at night, with no worries, no problems. I have had to spray it again after about 2 months, another 10 minute job. Had vehicle checked a month ago by the regular independent mechanic who has worked on it for years. Some worn steering parts replaced, but he found no bad wiring, no DTC codes, no lights. Friable corrosion is caused by vibration, and can be invisible to the eye. Moisture based corrosion usually shows as "green crusties" which are very visible, particularly with a magnifying glass. Overloaded circuits show up as burned connections and melted plastic. Don't overlook loose connections from pushed out sockets and using probes that are too large.(Happened to me last week on another car when I replaced A/C compressor switch - one connector socket was pushed out of the back of the plug.) A very strong flash light helps you see these issues. Follow South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Diagnostics on UA-cam for great insight and more diagnostic tips.
Thanks for this video....my GMC envoy also goes into reduced power mode when I go through a puddle or deep snow on the drivers side....really hoping it's a similar type fix
why are they grounded under the vehicle in the first place? can they be moved to be grounded somewhere in the engine compartment? great video btw... wish I saw your video before i replaced everything that still didn't resolve my issue
There is another ground in the engine compartment but it’s nearly impossible to get to unlike this one. I’m sorry, sometimes vehicles are such a burden
biker mike your the only genius I’ve ever seen watching these low quality how to videos before your stranded. Props to you sir. Wish I would have because I’m here out of desperation not education!
There's two under the door, 2 on the back of the engine on either cylinder head.. driver side goes to the body bolt for a chassis ground and the other goes directly to the computer from the passenger side head. There's also a main ground coming off the battery to the side of the engine block.
Are people getting a code for this? I have an 05 sierra 1500 thats acting all crazy, but I've been chasing and changing emissions codes and parts. Code keeps coming back and when i step on the gas the truck barley moves but then it will get going. It idles fine.
@@matthewlewis9996 what you have going on sounds exactly like a dirty mass air flow. The grounds create different issues and compound other issues. You won't get codes specifically for the ground.
@@matthewlewis9996 thanks for the response good to no on my 04 Tahoe I don't have any codes just lack of power when I need it so I'm try clean up those grounds see what happens.
Google ground locations for your car. It would most likely be in a place susceptible to moisture and rust. If your case is like mine, you’ll be upset after replacing everything else when it was something so simple.
My 2004 GMC Yukon 1500 is always going into "Reduced Engine Power" Mode. When it happens, I get off the road, roughly idle to a hault and shut the truck off because it makes the whole truck shake. I would wait like 2 minutes and try to restart it and it would run fine but the check engine light would stay on for awhile unless it sits for a few hours and then that would even turn off. I brought it into GMC here in Winter Haven Florida and they have replaced gas pedal sensors, Throttle sensors and the whole throttle body and just last night, Into a 30 min drive, it would go into low power mode again. I had a 2 hour drive to family and back and it happened about 30 mins into the drive both ways. If I clean the grounds that you pointed out is it really going to solve my problem?
I can’t guarantee it will but it’s a simple thing to try and I bet it’s the problem 😂. It definitely won’t hurt to try, so give it a go! Your description sounds EXACTLY Like what mine was doing.
I just bought my 2006 suburban from a dealership. They told me the power steering pump made some noises here and there when you take a turn. Twice now when I push on the gas going straight it has made that sound like it does when I turn but it just creeps forward and then after a few agonizing seconds it lurches forward. Does it sound like the grounding is the issue you discussed in the video?
So hey I have a 03 tahoe and when I stomp the gas it hesitates or like bogs kinda jumps a little when it's trying to get power I all ready did the gounds and sea foamed the tahoe the sea foam helped but still kinda doing the same thing any thoughts?
daygo West I’m not a professional nor do I claim to be and don’t know the possible ramifications of not doing so, however, I have always been taught to unhook power when working on electrical on a vehicle. Take it as you will. Make your own decisions with your own consequences or take it to a professional.
Good evening. I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500, I would like to know what could possibly be causing my truck to stop driving after a few minutes. But when I turn it off and let it sit for as little as a minute or so, I can drive it like there’s nothing wrong with it and then it will stop driving Could you please help , if you can
I have the same problem and it is also intermittent, always at a stoplight or stop sign, mine has happened 3 times in 6 months. I also had two other faults "Stability Control" and "Service 4WD". I researched the problem and it was cleaning these two grounds that solved those two problems. The loss of power happened again yesterday, I was hoping this was connected to the stability control fault, but I guess not. I also have another issue. I am getting a groaning noise every time I power the car from a dead stop. ABS? If the abs unit is on the left front of the vehicle, that is probably it.
@@4fletch75 No, I meant that the noise was coming from the front left side of the vehicle, not that ABS was only on left wheel. My problem ended up being the grounds. I missed one by the front left wheel, and once cleaned, that took care of both problems.
g1 - thanks for mentioning your "stability control" and "service 4WD" faults being due to the poor ground. I had the same faults, but they were so intermittent that I just lived with them for 3 years! I figured it was just a bad wheel speed sensor. But when the reduced engine power thing happened and I had to limp home at 10 MPH, I was forced to due some research - so I found your post here and just may have solved all 3 problems at once, or at least 2 out of three! Kudos to you.
Has this problem returned? Let me know cause I'm going through the same problem. Getting p1125 code and intermittent "reduced engine power" on a 2004 silverado 6.0. Thanks.
Hi I have a 2006 suburban when I press gas it hesitates at times I give gas and it doesn't get power i know its not the engine I shut traction control off and helps a little could this be my problem?
I actually had to do it twice myself. My video was after the second time. Make sure you clean it VERY well and tighten the bolt back properly. There’s another ground on the back of the motor but it’s much tougher to get to. Good luck, and I hope you get it working!
You nailed brother.. this was my issue with my 2005 GMC Sierra ... This didn't come and go.. it was just.. WHAM.. no power and was telling me reduced engine power.. I came to UA-cam and watched your video.. I went right out and did what you did and it was the fix.. so thank you.. God bless
I’m glad it helped! I often refer to UA-cam for vehicle help.
Thank you
I have replaced the main engine grounding wire and the throttle body...but still intermittent on an H2 Hummer. It has been to the shop 3 times...no luck. I found that TPS ground wire by the driver's side door...cleaned it up...SHAZAM...engine light gone...codes gone...running like a champ again! Thanks Dude!!
Happy to hear! Shazam!!
Thank you very much, I changed the TPS sensor and I hadn't used it for two weeks, and I looked for many videos, and today I watched yours. You saved money for all of us who commented and those who didn't comment, I did it. Thank you very much and good luck.
Thank you sir. You have saved me time, money and stress by you taking the time to share your knowledge. Thank you again.
videos like this are what helping others is all about thank you
Before swapping expensive parts check your GROUNDS! All cars/trucks ground to engine, frame and body to complete circuits. That's why you see different ground locations. They can break off, get disconnected/cut, or have bad connections from corrosion. Micro switches, modules, and computers get squirly with bad power or bad grounds. Start with ground cable at battery, and clean the others. My '04, Z71 Burb had a bad ground on back of pass. head so I ran the black/white stripe wire to drivers side firewall ground that was shown with braided flat ground strap. That fixed 4wd. selection switch, ch. eng. lt., no crank, and crazy door locks. A wire brush from H.F. on a drill easily cleans rust on frame, then use wire brush, sandpaper to shine up wire ends, bolts, etc. Carefully clean the 3 wires shown here on frame below drivers seat. Follow smaller ground cable wire down to frame below core support to clean that important one as it also looks like the main computer ground is there. The gas pedal module is bolted to firewall by Master Brake Cylinder and must have a good ground so check that as well. Smear electrical grease on all cleaned connections and reg. grease once bolted tight. Ground cable from batt. to engine block can go bad but pretty unusual. You MUST have good grounds so do that first yourself. Remember the dealer makes a bunch more money replacing expensive parts than cleaning the grounds that affected the part they replaced as comments show. Great video, Thanks.
BRAVO...MANY THANKS!!
2001Yukon XL went into Power Reduced Mode and threw an 1125P DTC code...YOU fixed my truck!
Thank you! I've done everything, replaced throttle body and TPS sensor, other grounds but I did not know about this ground under the door! I'll try this next
For that ground fix slide the conduit up to make sure both wires are connected. Another ground on frame, drivers side below core support. Single black/white stripe wire back of passenger head. Another by motor mount to block. There's more but those are the usual problem places.
We had the same problem with our truck Chevy Silverado thanks to your video we were able to fix it.Thank you.
Thanks for the video homie, my 03’ H2 is going through the same issue with no power when I hit the gas… tomorrow I’m gonna try your method cleaning the grounds. I thought it was a transmission problem truthfully. Much appreciated!!
Did it work?
Bro i just drove my tahoe to my bois house and it was fine. Then im gettin ready to leave and no power i was pissed i thought it was gunna be something major or hella expensive. I got home barely got up to 25 30 mph and then watched your video. Life saver bro good shit!!!!
Brother you saved my day I replaced my throttle and pedal and it still was coming p1518 now I check the ground and it was loose I'm one happy camper
I wanted to say thank you 😀😀😀 for this video it was my ground wire dirty and now I have. Running vehicle to take my kid to school .
How did you clean it
@@victor2187puj I used a hard wire brush I had one that I used to clean my battery terminal I just scraped at it on both sides
Did you took the screws off i get reduce engine power whene im driving did you change some parts or thats all you do
It had rust or just duat and dirt?
How do you know that was tbe problem
Dude, you nailed it. Awesome video, very simple and well articulated. You are the man.
Agreed let’s put corporate gm to shame. I’ve saved so much money and time doing mechanics myself. From watching you and others I know more about my Tahoe. I would like to say thank you for sharing.
Thank you Very Much.. same thing Happened to my truck today, After watching your video This is the first thing i Did and Bam! It work ...... That was it.... Can’t believe something that small can cause some Major Headaches....
was yours bringing up the "reduced engine power" code on the dash ?
This fixed the "Reduced Engine Power" issue on my 2003 Suburban Z71. Cleaned the connections and replaced the screws/washers.
Thank you sir, have the same issue 2005 Tahoe. For me it wasn’t so much rusty but dusty from all this caked up oil lol . Your a good man , God bless .
Wow I'm so happy I found this video. I fixed my throttle so easy with buying no sensors. Thankyou
Thank you so much this was literally the problem i didn't have to spend a dime you're awesome !!!
Thank you for that detailed video! I've been having the same issue even after replacing the throttle body!!
I'm having the same issue on a 2005 Sierra 3500. This will be the first thing I check! I have ALOT of rust on the frame and I am guessing I have a ground issue. I will re-post to let everyone else know if this fixes my issue. Thanks so much!
And.....
@@phouston6802 I ended up just cleaning and applying dielectric grease to the 2 electrical plugs on the firewall behind the brake fluid container (master cylinder). Unhook your battery first. Haven’t had the problem since.
Thanks for sharing, sure hope mine is this easy to fix. I have a throttle position sensor on order for my 2011 Avalanche due to my reduced power issue that comes up intermittently and puts me on the side of the road. Restart truck and it's fine again but I surely will be checking all these grounds I have been learning about until the TPS gets here.
Thanks man your a life saver! I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 8.1 that just did this. I checked the grounds under the truck first after watching your video. So much rust the frame and bolts were flush. Grinded everything down and it runs perfect.
Hey Brother thank you so much my sister Tahoe was doing the same thing as yours I did what you said and it runs great thanks again
Well I have to say this fixed it man !! Right on brother !!
I hope this is it! My ground to the motor broke off last year and yea mine has these symptoms! Huge thanks!
thank you Fletch your tip was right you saved me a LOT OF MONEY!!! cant thank you enough!!! have a blessed life!!!
Who the man , you the man !!!!!!
I fucking love you man! You just saved me money by doing it myself and the two under the door was it! Thank you brother!
Love you too buddy 😂👍
Mine is getting almost zero throttle response. I can hold it to the floor and only get 1000rpm. Could this also be my issue???
@@christophersims5263 same brooo did you ever find the problem?
Really good video. I have a 96 and a 05 suburban and I don’t have any problems yet but still going to check it out hope to save the problem to ever happening. Thank u
You're easy fix to clean the 2 bolts under the driver-side door made the ground connection better. It worked, and saved me hundreds of dollars $ and tons of trips/time paying a mechanic who could NOT find the issue during expensive diagnostic/trouble-shoots. THANK YOU!
Hey Fletch...the "Reduced Engine Power" alert came back, so I am wondering about cleaning the ground under the hood, think that is the culprit?
Those grounds help alot
You're, the Fucking Man. 2004 GMC Sierra affectionately as "Hanna". She's part of the family. You have saved me from making a rash, decision. Thank you
That worked perfect I was having same issues was considering getting TPI watched this video 5 minutes later problem solved thanks
Excellent, both grounds are an issue. Up here in the rust belt. Ohio/ Michigan are we are under winter A-SALT. I believe there is one more ground behind the passenger head.
Our truck frames here are not that clean.
Buddy thank you so much for putting this on you tube you saved my ass I am so greatful that's what it was im indeded to you thanks again!!!!!
Thx for the video. Don’t have that trouble right now but i was researching why these trucks have such poor throttle response off the line and i can across this. I’ll keep it in my favs.
Thank you for the video, Fletch, Your a good Man!
Hope this helps mine. Deff gonna try this for mine.
Nice! Saved me a bunch bud. I had the same issue today!
dealing with same thing on buds wife yukon xlt the battery small ground wire is under the front bumper drivers side also needs cleaned and tightened !...So after lots of searching and videos I came across 1 guys forum post on a GM site. He removed the intake manifold to access those 2 bolts, mounted on back of head/block!....My last thing am in middle of fixing!
So the passenger side ground bolt, is top mounted on rear corner of the block , the braided ground to drivers side is horizontally mounted in back side of the head.....With the intake out of the way, REAL easy to repair those 2. BUT I added an extra ground wire along with the braided ground, and relocated both to the side of the head. Bolt fits the hole midway by exhaust manifold. So THIS will be easier to get at later down the road IF needed! Screw the back side of the head location!
Reassembling it tomorrow with new intake gaskets also since this Yukon does have 300k on the clock.....Funny, all this nightmare began when truck sat parked for a bit and the battery went dead!! Once I replaced it with a new $130 battery, its been stuck in limp mode throwing DTC P1518
So will see tomorrow IF I finally got this booger fixed! good thing I have short hair or I'd have pulled it out by now ! Engineers should have to work on their shit to see how stupid somethings they do in designing a vehicle is totally idiotic! hahaha
How did it go? I have a 04 Yukon and am interested if you got yours fixed.
@@budthechud3408 yes cut wires in split loom near brake booster dunno if I did that removing alarm horn or not. Not my typical goof up but it was the issue n fixed it once I repaired wires
It worked for my 02 silverado!
Thanks the ground wires makes sense and solved my problem. Before you buy anything try this.
why aren't all videos this good!
Thanks Bro, tanks very much
Thanks for the video bro. For the ground at 2:40 could you just use a wire and crimp the o shaped connector to it and reground it to the side of the engine/alternator or does it NEED to be grounded to the original location?
I don’t know I can answer that. I personally wouldn’t move it. Good luck!!
I found the solution to this problem. I added more grounds to the frame
motor etc and ended up replacing every single sensor related to the gas
peddle and a new throttle body. Next i put in a whole brand new wiring
harness in the car and a brand new pcm and could not fix the problem. I
took it to a guy in Richmond va which had more advanced computers to
diagnose the problem and he said that in my case it was like nothing he
had ever seen before. He could not find what was causing this problem.
So i unbolted everything gad peddle related and literally threw it in
the woods and put the cable driven throttle cable on it. Problem is
fixed now.
Does adding the cable cause the engine light to come on?
blyguy I have no check engine light, motor was swapped into a classic car.
blyguy when adding the cable you have to have a ECU for the cable.
@@PolecatCreekGarage so an ecu from an older truck is required?
blyguy idk got mine tuned
On my 2005 chevy suburban my issue was everytime i let off the gas pedal it boggs down like its going to break down and turn off with slight shake or trembles. It just started. I watched your video sounds like i have the same problems. I will check in it.
Let us know the results
I tried this and it worked thanks for the video
This helped alot and fixed my problem thank you.
Thank you I will try that tomorrow morning Great video!!
Thank you so much, you saved me some money ❤️
Early Christmas gift for my 2005 Silverado , Thx Bro !
I'm so glad it helped. UA-cam has been a life saver for several things for me so when I figured this out I thought I'd share.
Just tried this. My ground was not between two washers (only reason to have two washers), but was instead right up against the body, dirty as hell. So I took it apart and decreased and wire brushed it. Will give is a go later and see if it helped.
Awesome!!!!!!!!! THANKYOU BUDDY!!!!!!!!!
Is yours a electric throttle body? I have 2000 yukon and it's crazy but I have a electric throttle body which I thought they didn't start using them on the gm models till around 2002 or 03.
Yes, it’s electric.
The solution can be much, much simpler. Before you replace a throttle body or an accelerator pedal position sensor, or even clean the grounds or replace ground wires, try this method. Get a can of full strength De-Oxit or Electronic Contact Cleaner. Find the accelerator pedal position sensor (right above the gas pedal) and disconnect the connector between it and the rest of the wiring harness; if you've done this before it may be simple, if you have not and can't get a good look at what you're doing, it can be frustrating, very frustrating. Once apart, spray both parts of the connector(pins and connector sockets) with a generous amount of the spray from either product, and the chemical spray will remove any corrosion in the connections, particularly if you put the parts partially together and work them in and out, then lock them together with the snaps. This bundle of wires controls the throttle position sensor (i.e. the sensor that moves throttle plate position inside the throttle body). After removing the plastic cover plate on top of the engine, find the closest connector to the throttle body, separate the two halves as you did with the other sensor down by the throttle pedal and generously spray both the pins and sockets in the connector halves, and put them back together using the same technique as you did with the first connector. Wait a few minutes for all the chemical spray to evaporate. The vehicle should start now with no more money lights or codes. If not, start working on the various ground wires and connectors as described in this video. To see how tricky these problems can be, watch part one and part two of D-Ray Smith's video on fixing this problem on his 2010 Chevy 2500 HD, published on UA-cam on or about June 25, 2011. D-Ray is a country genius on diagnosing and fixing trucks.
Great suggestions. Where does one purchase “De-Oxit”??
@@4fletch75 Amazon.DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw. There are several varieties. This is the latest, improved version.I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71 that I bought new. Our new car got destroyed in a rear-ender, my son had the Z71 at his house, he had parked it because the low-power message, etc. We needed something to drive. It took me 5 to 10 minutes with De-Oxit to cure all these problems, and I hopped in it and drove it home, 100 miles, at night, with no worries, no problems. I have had to spray it again after about 2 months, another 10 minute job. Had vehicle checked a month ago by the regular independent mechanic who has worked on it for years. Some worn steering parts replaced, but he found no bad wiring, no DTC codes, no lights. Friable corrosion is caused by vibration, and can be invisible to the eye. Moisture based corrosion usually shows as "green crusties" which are very visible, particularly with a magnifying glass. Overloaded circuits show up as burned connections and melted plastic. Don't overlook loose connections from pushed out sockets and using probes that are too large.(Happened to me last week on another car when I replaced A/C compressor switch - one connector socket was pushed out of the back of the plug.) A very strong flash light helps you see these issues. Follow South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Diagnostics on UA-cam for great insight and more diagnostic tips.
That seems hard lol
Tnks a lot bro. Very helpful
My 07 Tahoe having the same symptoms, gotta check if this would help.
Definitely going to be trying this!!!
Worked for me. Thankyou
Thanks for this video....my GMC envoy also goes into reduced power mode when I go through a puddle or deep snow on the drivers side....really hoping it's a similar type fix
I went thri a big puddle today and same thing. Did u ever get it fixed?
@@suhhdudee5153 no...it eventually stopped on it's own and is running fine for the time being. But I'm nervous driving it everytime it rains
Damn yeah it sucks man.. Appreciate it
My truck is not accelerating when I’m in gear. Wiuld that fix it?
I'm chasing down hesitation on acceleration on my Vortex Silverado. I've addressed the frame grounds. Gonna look at this firewall ground next
Jason Ricci did you ever find the issue having same problem
Me to 2004 chevy 6.0
Same problem, what was the mix ?
@@chrisrowe9471 Turned out to be a small air leak from intake manifold gasket.
Jason Ricci same problem with my truck, hesitated and won’t get passed 3500 rpm. Changed maf sensor and that didn’t do anything
You’re the man, thank you so much!!
why are they grounded under the vehicle in the first place? can they be moved to be grounded somewhere in the engine compartment? great video btw... wish I saw your video before i replaced everything that still didn't resolve my issue
There is another ground in the engine compartment but it’s nearly impossible to get to unlike this one. I’m sorry, sometimes vehicles are such a burden
Thanks for sharing my man
Great tip bro! I'll Remember this for the future if needed
biker mike your the only genius I’ve ever seen watching these low quality how to videos before your stranded. Props to you sir. Wish I would have because I’m here out of desperation not education!
I will try this tomorrow.
Thank you brother appreciate the help
after cleaning the grounds add
copper never seize then reinstall better than grease .
There's two under the door, 2 on the back of the engine on either cylinder head.. driver side goes to the body bolt for a chassis ground and the other goes directly to the computer from the passenger side head. There's also a main ground coming off the battery to the side of the engine block.
Are people getting a code for this? I have an 05 sierra 1500 thats acting all crazy, but I've been chasing and changing emissions codes and parts. Code keeps coming back and when i step on the gas the truck barley moves but then it will get going. It idles fine.
@@matthewlewis9996 what you have going on sounds exactly like a dirty mass air flow. The grounds create different issues and compound other issues. You won't get codes specifically for the ground.
@@matthewlewis9996 check your coil packs that could be it also
@@TheGottyline i found out it's the shift solenoids in the tranny
@@matthewlewis9996 thanks for the response good to no on my 04 Tahoe I don't have any codes just lack of power when I need it so I'm try clean up those grounds see what happens.
I have a 06 mustang and I’m not having throttle response and I’ve tried everything so ima try this. Maybe it’ll fix my problem
Google ground locations for your car. It would most likely be in a place susceptible to moisture and rust. If your case is like mine, you’ll be upset after replacing everything else when it was something so simple.
@@4fletch75 I still can’t find the problem. Might have to put it in the shop
Just tried this
Im praying this fixes it gonna see if the light comes back after a few hours of sitting
thank you. that was very useful.
My 2004 GMC Yukon 1500 is always going into "Reduced Engine Power" Mode. When it happens, I get off the road, roughly idle to a hault and shut the truck off because it makes the whole truck shake. I would wait like 2 minutes and try to restart it and it would run fine but the check engine light would stay on for awhile unless it sits for a few hours and then that would even turn off. I brought it into GMC here in Winter Haven Florida and they have replaced gas pedal sensors, Throttle sensors and the whole throttle body and just last night, Into a 30 min drive, it would go into low power mode again. I had a 2 hour drive to family and back and it happened about 30 mins into the drive both ways. If I clean the grounds that you pointed out is it really going to solve my problem?
I can’t guarantee it will but it’s a simple thing to try and I bet it’s the problem 😂. It definitely won’t hurt to try, so give it a go! Your description sounds EXACTLY Like what mine was doing.
@@4fletch75 thank you, I will definitely check the ground wires tomorrow
Did this problem come back?
Not for the additional years I had the vehicle, no. I don’t have it anymore.
Thank you for the tip im having a similar problem with a 2003 Tahoe Lt 5.3l ill try that first when i get a chance.
How did it go iam having the same problem?
@@GoriSauceda915 im having the same issue as well do you have a check engine light?
@@andyhealey5567 yes, code p0300
@@GoriSauceda915 alright im getting a code po122 and I cant figure it out
@@andyhealey5567 had that same code as well. I got rid of it by replacing the throttle body with a new one out of ebay.
Thank you I fix it is working good now
I just bought my 2006 suburban from a dealership. They told me the power steering pump made some noises here and there when you take a turn. Twice now when I push on the gas going straight it has made that sound like it does when I turn but it just creeps forward and then after a few agonizing seconds it lurches forward. Does it sound like the grounding is the issue you discussed in the video?
Are you getting lights on the dash?
No. No lights
@@bethanynelson2678 it sounds like more of a fuel issue then? Sorry, take it back to the dealership if you just bought it.
They sold it “as is” so no use bringing it back. Turns out it was a wheel sensor.
Hello i have a cuestion , what code did you get before
Sorry, I never put a code reader on it. Just the reduced power light on the dash
Was your vehicle running fine for a little while, after resetting the TPS? Mine lasts a day.
Replacing the TPS did nothing. It was always the ground.
I'm hoping this is my issue. Been chasing error codes and intermittent problems for a week.
Many times I have found the problem to be a bad ground. The shops Never look for a 'ground' problem. (So I have to fix it myself ! )
So long term follow up.... was it the ground issue ?
It helped and worked for the time I owned the vehicle but I don’t have it anymore.
@@4fletch75 thanks for the heads up!!
Mine just seems to have no power climbing any hill. I will try this. Thanks.
Any update on this?
When you remove the ground are you supposed to disconnect the battery first?
Yes, when working on any electrical you should disconnect the battery. Sorry I didn’t note that in the video.
@@4fletch75 thanks for the reply
So hey I have a 03 tahoe and when I stomp the gas it hesitates or like bogs kinda jumps a little when it's trying to get power I all ready did the gounds and sea foamed the tahoe the sea foam helped but still kinda doing the same thing any thoughts?
Did you unconnect your negative battery terminal when you changed your throttle position sensor or did you leave it on?
daygo West disconnect
@@4fletch75 what will happen if you don't?
daygo West I’m not a professional nor do I claim to be and don’t know the possible ramifications of not doing so, however, I have always been taught to unhook power when working on electrical on a vehicle. Take it as you will. Make your own decisions with your own consequences or take it to a professional.
Yes it resets computer and check it with code scanner clear codes and Turn key off let sit for about 10 min then restart to check for codes
Good evening. I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500, I would like to know what could possibly be causing my truck to stop driving after a few minutes. But when I turn it off and let it sit for as little as a minute or so, I can drive it like there’s nothing wrong with it and then it will stop driving Could you please help , if you can
See my video on the suburban. Sorry, I just saw your comment.
Thanks bro
I have the same problem and it is also intermittent, always at a stoplight or stop sign, mine has happened 3 times in 6 months. I also had two other faults "Stability Control" and "Service 4WD". I researched the problem and it was cleaning these two grounds that solved those two problems. The loss of power happened again yesterday, I was hoping this was connected to the stability control fault, but I guess not. I also have another issue. I am getting a groaning noise every time I power the car from a dead stop. ABS? If the abs unit is on the left front of the vehicle, that is probably it.
I doubt the grinding noise is your ABS? It’s most likely something with the brake shoes or rotor? ABS is on both sides not just one.
@@4fletch75 No, I meant that the noise was coming from the front left side of the vehicle, not that ABS was only on left wheel. My problem ended up being the grounds. I missed one by the front left wheel, and once cleaned, that took care of both problems.
g1 - thanks for mentioning your "stability control" and "service 4WD" faults being due to the poor ground. I had the same faults, but they were so intermittent that I just lived with them for 3 years! I figured it was just a bad wheel speed sensor. But when the reduced engine power thing happened and I had to limp home at 10 MPH, I was forced to due some research - so I found your post here and just may have solved all 3 problems at once, or at least 2 out of three! Kudos to you.
@@smo-guiver8315 You are welcome sir!
good work !! if all else fails , check you effin ground ......
Where is that located ?
@@albertoloya5025 under the driver side door in the chassis
Has this problem returned? Let me know cause I'm going through the same problem. Getting p1125 code and intermittent "reduced engine power" on a 2004 silverado 6.0. Thanks.
No, it hadn’t returned but I’ve fairly recently sold the vehicle so it’s no longer my problem. Good luck!
Thank you
Hi I have a 2006 suburban when I press gas it hesitates at times I give gas and it doesn't get power i know its not the engine I shut traction control off and helps a little could this be my problem?
Try it😂. I don’t know if it will fix it, but your broken note seems similar to the same issues I had.
Did you get any message on your dash ?
Yes, the limp mode message of reduced power I believe. It was a while ago and I no longer have the vehicle. I don’t remember exactly what it said.
@@4fletch75 Thanks.
Awesome thanks
Thanks bud
I did this but it only worked for a while then back to losing power, any suggestions?
I actually had to do it twice myself. My video was after the second time. Make sure you clean it VERY well and tighten the bolt back properly. There’s another ground on the back of the motor but it’s much tougher to get to. Good luck, and I hope you get it working!
thanks, it just happened to me and this fixed it instantly
James Paschal I’m glad it helped!
Fletch Magilacutty is your vehicle still running ok?
I have an 03 yukon denali started doing same thing no power when you press pedal
shane oneill yes, it’s still going strong with 175,000 miles now.