I was 10 yo , when I built this kit 57 years past, saw the kit online, ordered.my winter project , Happy I found this clip. Thanks for sharing your build 😊
The second I get back inti balsa wood, you come up with one of my favorite series. Combines both of the things I love. Thanks for sharing this helpful video.
extremely beautiful build! i did notice however the right wing panel looked like it had a ton of washout compared to the other wing, that would be a fight all by itself especially for a tiny fast model like that, and yes like the one fellow mentioned a bit more dihedral would stabilize a rudder only turning plane, but she sure is beautiful
Hi Tim, I built that kit in 1969, I think. Flew it rubber power for a while then I got the bright idea to put a Cox .020 on it. Flew great, however it did spend a couple weeks in the top of a locust tree. Rain storm finally got her down. The Cub was done but the .020 lived on. Capt. GB Slagle.
@@TimMcKay56 love your videos, I’m surprised that at 12 or 13 years old I could build those kits by myself. Eventually launching me into a 40 year combined USAF and airline career.
Great job and great vidd!!! I to enjoy building Guillows model plane's and doing a R/C conversion. Learned some good tips from ur viddz... I wanted to ask you were is the best place to find those bricks you use ?? The one's I've found are rather pricy..You can pretty much buy a eflite or park zone RTF micro plane kit complete and ready to fly for what one brick costs.. and my last question is do you know if those park zone bricks will bind to other transmitters other than Spectrum brands???? Thanks again for your help.....Ray from Colorado....
Ray: It can be tough finding the bricks from time to time. I’ve had good luck with StevensAero.com and Horizon Hobby. Also, maybe find an old RTF at a swap meet. They should be able to bind with other TX, I just like Spektrum. Tim
I really like your tip on building the wing in one piece, I'm doing one right now and just couldn't get the wings right, ended up taking them off and following your tip, I made a center jig and worked around that, I'm very happy now with the alignment and will do this from now on. It's fun doing these conversions, only I'm using micro brushless motors and tiny servos. Although some can be quite quick, like the guillows flyboy I just converted, it's now called the missile as it's really quick! And I found tricky to land as the threshold of how slow she could go before dropping I found out was still pretty fast. But it's fun... lol
Tim, I love your channel - thanks for all you do. I'm in the midst of a r/c build of the same kit, and wanted to offer your viewers an alternative for electronics. I'm just getting back into the hobby after a 53 year hiatus - back then, as a teenager, I built several of these Guillows kits, free flight, with a Pee Wee .020. Anyway, as a gateway back into the fold, I've been flying a Top Race TR-C385, an OEM version of the Volantex Sport Cub S2. These planes are indestructable, inexpensive, and are so easy to fly. The electronics are functionally identical to the DSMX bricks that you are using - but they have an additional channel for ailerons. I bought several of these, with the idea of cannibalizing some of them for balsa kit builds, but then found that from time to time Top Race sells the electronics (brick + motor) for $21 - obviously scavenged from a crushed/damaged model. They don't include the ailerons servo, but those are super cheap, just be sure to get the ones with the tiny JST connectors. Yes, this is Volantex, so you cannot use your Spektrum transmitter, but you can use the transmitter that comes with these planes (I have 3 or 4 lying around). You can also bind these receivers with a Radiomaster TX16S. So, lots of options. Buying a TR-C385 to learn how to fly, and then using that transmitter with a $21 electronics package is another great way to go. One thing I really, really like about the Volantex electronics, is that the geared motor has a "prop saver", where the prop disconnects on impact and is easily reconnected. If you first buy the full TR-C385 ($119), then you will have extra props with the prop saver gizmo that you can add to the $21 electronics package.
@@TimMcKay56 Another thing I forgot to mention about this brick. It is the same as the one in the TR-C285, which is a 3 channel plane. The brick will detect the aileron servo on power up, and if present, the right stick controls aileron and left stick controls rudder. If not present, then the right stick controls rudder. Pretty neat.
Thanks Tim I really enjoy your model conversion , I like watching your modifications , and lightening techniques, like omitting ribs etc , I build from plans mostly to keep cost down , as balsawood has become quite expensive here in England , so even plan building can be expensive, anyway thanks I'm enjoying your videos, as I don't tune in to any television, thanks again, from Tony McCarthy from Bedfordshire england, I've got to get back to watching the rest of your video, thanks
I've loved cubs since I was so little, when I joined the hobby last year I built one of these but when I got into radio controlled I thought about building another one maybe, if I do decide to, then this will help me! Thanks!
I agree about the landing gear. I just finished the Aeronca Champ, which is very similar to the cub kit. The windshield was a pain, but ended up using little strips of double sided carpet tape to mount it. Mine is not a flyer.
I've got this kit, it will be the first one built as I'm retiring in Mexico in 4 short weeks. - Nice videos! I'd love to see it fly if you made any further CG adjustments.
Great video as usual. I always thought the Guillows construction methods with wide formers on the fuselage added too much aft weight. Next time I build a Guillows I will remove much of the material.
Great video. One thought is to install the brick upside down (servos down) then the battery can sit on top of the brick, accessed from the front or the top.
Very informative and enjoyable to watch. I flew one of these 50 years ago free flight with the Pee Wee 0.020 engine. How would you compare the power of your electric motor to the Cox engine? I hope to build another and was going to use the gas engine again, but your conversion is a real possibility. Never thought about leaving the stringers off until radio gear was installed.
Hi Tim, great video, the cowl idea was one I hadn't seen before. I agree, more nose weight, how did it compare to the plan? Great colour (color) scheme by the way 👍🙂
Hey, Tim! This is awesome! I’m putting a small Pee-Wee .020 engine slapped onto the front, would I still try to put all of the electronics so close to the front of the aircraft? Or to balance it would I bring it closer to the middle or back? Thanks, Monty
Monty: The Pee Wee .020 should work out just fine, plenty of power. My guess is your Piper will be a bit nose heavy with the .020 motor. It is possible you may need a bit of tail weight. As you build out the fuselage I literally tape on the wing, tail surfaces, motor and electronics to find the best location. Remember to add the fuselage 1/16” stringers after the electronics are in place, a lot easier. Tim
Hi Tim I'm new to the hobby and this is the first plane i'm converting. I'm looking at buying the brick you used in the video as well as the FS-i6X controller. However i'm having trouble figuring out if they are compatible. Can you help? Thanks
It looks like tail heavy, but I am sure you must have checked the CG and done the adjustments correctly. Another culprit may be AoA. Perhaps lowering the wing incidence may help solve the problem? Good video :-)
BW I used 1/16" music wire for the gear, and bent this for the short axle. Wheels were some larger model tailwheels I had in the parts bin, see Ebay for model airplane tail wheels. Tim
Chip: The Guillows water slide decals stick just fine on Parklite covering. No issues there. The decals can "age" a bit over time. I mist a light coating of Krylon clear coat spray over the decals, seems to keep them there fine. Tim
Danny: To be honest the Piper never really flew right. The CG was OK. Sometimes with the smaller models the gremlins win out. Likely some subtle warp somewhere. Tim
TAIL HEAVY Pro tip, build the balsa then balance the plane with electronics and if tail heavy stop and modify to bring the motor farther foreward and your plane will float like a dream
Can anyone advice me what guillow kit is the best to begin with and add electronics ? I already have the brick and the motor, but I have built a piper like 4 years ago, but that didn't go well. Help would be apricated ;|)
BWM: These tiny, brushed motors do not really have specs. Rather, they work with their gearbox and one type of prop and lipo battery to produce enough thrust for about a 3 ounce model. See www.StevensAero.com for further details on these motors. Tim
Nice video Tim. I built mine from the old die ‘crushed’ kit and it hasn’t worked out, Not since maiden, half a dozen fixes and so on. It’s been relegated to mantle piece duty temporarily. Will be watching how you fix the bugs to get yours flying nicely. I compare this with my son’s Parkzone Champ, and wonder why the Guillows with similar dimensions (but slightly heavier weight).will simply not fly as well as the Champ. Wonder if I may e- mail you for advice.
Tim McKay that looks tail heavy I despise adding weight to planes but I have a buddy who's always telling me I need nose weight and more times than not hes actually right. That or too much up elevator it seemed to be stalling.
Romin: I agree. I am so hesitant to add weight that I do think the plane is a tad tail heavy. I epoxied another metal bolt under the motor. Model balances out, weight now 2.8 ounces. Will test fly here as weather allows! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 mine were free flight and had the same flying characteristics as yours. I just couldn’t add enough weight to the front to make it fly right. Have you converted any of the bombers? How do they do?
Does anyone really know how to pronounce "Guillow" ?. New York: GEE LOW. Texas: GIL OW, Minnesta: GUY LOW, Califormia:. DZHJEE YOW, Missouri: GIL OY, Indiana:, You" GWEEL YO
I was 10 yo , when I built this kit 57 years past, saw the kit online, ordered.my winter project , Happy I found this clip. Thanks for sharing your build 😊
Thanks for checking in!
The second I get back inti balsa wood, you come up with one of my favorite series. Combines both of the things I love. Thanks for sharing this helpful video.
👍🏻 Tim
50 stars for this MASTERCLASS on micro models. Thank you Tim.
Chilarai: Thanks for checking in. I have 8 Guillow/one Dumas C-3 conversions on the channel, do check them out! Tim
Thanks for all the tips! At age 71 I'm thinking of getting back in to RC planes in a "small" way.
Robert: Good luck! Tim
That yellow makes the airplane stand out,nice build Tim.
👍🏻 Tim
Nice work on the G. Cub and video Tim. Thanks.
Mine didn’t work out well. Relegated to mantle piece duty,
until I see your final fix !
Will work on it! Tim
I just got this kit from my daughter for Christmas. I'm almost sure I built this exact same kit 50 yrs ago!
All good! Tim
extremely beautiful build! i did notice however the right wing panel looked like it had a ton of washout compared to the other wing, that would be a fight all by itself especially for a tiny fast model like that, and yes like the one fellow mentioned a bit more dihedral would stabilize a rudder only turning plane, but she sure is beautiful
Thanks for checking in!
Hi Tim, I built that kit in 1969, I think. Flew it rubber power for a while then I got the bright idea to put a Cox .020 on it. Flew great, however it did spend a couple weeks in the top of a locust tree. Rain storm finally got her down. The Cub was done but the .020 lived on. Capt. GB Slagle.
Geof: All good, great update! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 love your videos, I’m surprised that at 12 or 13 years old I could build those kits by myself. Eventually launching me into a 40 year combined USAF and airline career.
@@geofslagle410 Geof: Same at this end, hard to believe shat I could construct back then. Good times! Tim
Great video Tim. You've passed on a lot of valuable information.
Johnny: Glad it was helpful! Tim
Thanks, Tim. Epic video, sir!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Tim, another great video. Hopefully you get her sorted out- looks like you are close. Your Guillow’s builds are my favorite
Many thanks! Tim
Fun video Tim. Looking forward to the Guillows PBY and DC3.
👍🏻😊 Tim
Sweet stinger track at the end!
Thanks!
I just got one of these, and I’m super excited to try this. Thanks!
Zach: Good luck! Tim
Great video. Very helpful - thank you for taking time to make it. Love Rudi, we have one the same who goes by the name Dougie…
Otto: Glad it was helpful! Rudy is a good doggie . . . 😁 Tim
Great job and great vidd!!! I to enjoy building Guillows model plane's and doing a R/C conversion. Learned some good tips from ur viddz... I wanted to ask you were is the best place to find those bricks you use ?? The one's I've found are rather pricy..You can pretty much buy a eflite or park zone RTF micro plane kit complete and ready to fly for what one brick costs.. and my last question is do you know if those park zone bricks will bind to other transmitters other than Spectrum brands???? Thanks again for your help.....Ray from Colorado....
Ray: It can be tough finding the bricks from time to time. I’ve had good luck with StevensAero.com and Horizon Hobby. Also, maybe find an old RTF at a swap meet. They should be able to bind with other TX, I just like Spektrum. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thanks for that info... I will look at the places you suggested.. take care Tim........Ray
I really like your tip on building the wing in one piece, I'm doing one right now and just couldn't get the wings right, ended up taking them off and following your tip, I made a center jig and worked around that, I'm very happy now with the alignment and will do this from now on. It's fun doing these conversions, only I'm using micro brushless motors and tiny servos. Although some can be quite quick, like the guillows flyboy I just converted, it's now called the missile as it's really quick! And I found tricky to land as the threshold of how slow she could go before dropping I found out was still pretty fast. But it's fun... lol
Don: So glad things are working out! Tim
Keep building and making videos so I can keep up on the fun too! Lol.
Tim, I love your channel - thanks for all you do. I'm in the midst of a r/c build of the same kit, and wanted to offer your viewers an alternative for electronics. I'm just getting back into the hobby after a 53 year hiatus - back then, as a teenager, I built several of these Guillows kits, free flight, with a Pee Wee .020. Anyway, as a gateway back into the fold, I've been flying a Top Race TR-C385, an OEM version of the Volantex Sport Cub S2. These planes are indestructable, inexpensive, and are so easy to fly. The electronics are functionally identical to the DSMX bricks that you are using - but they have an additional channel for ailerons. I bought several of these, with the idea of cannibalizing some of them for balsa kit builds, but then found that from time to time Top Race sells the electronics (brick + motor) for $21 - obviously scavenged from a crushed/damaged model. They don't include the ailerons servo, but those are super cheap, just be sure to get the ones with the tiny JST connectors. Yes, this is Volantex, so you cannot use your Spektrum transmitter, but you can use the transmitter that comes with these planes (I have 3 or 4 lying around). You can also bind these receivers with a Radiomaster TX16S. So, lots of options. Buying a TR-C385 to learn how to fly, and then using that transmitter with a $21 electronics package is another great way to go. One thing I really, really like about the Volantex electronics, is that the geared motor has a "prop saver", where the prop disconnects on impact and is easily reconnected. If you first buy the full TR-C385 ($119), then you will have extra props with the prop saver gizmo that you can add to the $21 electronics package.
Steve: Great info, I need to check this out further! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Another thing I forgot to mention about this brick. It is the same as the one in the TR-C285, which is a 3 channel plane. The brick will detect the aileron servo on power up, and if present, the right stick controls aileron and left stick controls rudder. If not present, then the right stick controls rudder. Pretty neat.
Good to know! Tim
I own a few volantex /top race planes, and might try this, did you successfully fly a model like this with one of those boards?
@@indecisivekairyc4868 I flew with just the ultra-micro equipment shown in this video and my other Guillow conversions. Tim
Thanks Tim I really enjoy your model conversion , I like watching your modifications , and lightening techniques, like omitting ribs etc , I build from plans mostly to keep cost down , as balsawood has become quite expensive here in England , so even plan building can be expensive, anyway thanks I'm enjoying your videos, as I don't tune in to any television, thanks again, from Tony McCarthy from Bedfordshire england, I've got to get back to watching the rest of your video, thanks
Tony: Great update, thanks so much for tuning in. Next video out (on dihedral) tomorrow morning (early afternoon UK time😊). Tim
I've loved cubs since I was so little, when I joined the hobby last year I built one of these but when I got into radio controlled I thought about building another one maybe, if I do decide to, then this will help me! Thanks!
Leroy: Good luck! Tim
I agree about the landing gear. I just finished the Aeronca Champ, which is very similar to the cub kit. The windshield was a pain, but ended up using little strips of double sided carpet tape to mount it. Mine is not a flyer.
👍🏻😊 Tim
I've got this kit, it will be the first one built as I'm retiring in Mexico in 4 short weeks. - Nice videos! I'd love to see it fly if you made any further CG adjustments.
Will try, enjoy Mexico! Tim
Great work! Many compliments!
Michele: Many thanks! Tim
😊👍🏻 Tim
@@TimMcKay56 semplicemente "bravo"!
@@TimMcKay56 I have the same Kit Guillows, and I would like to start building the model. Do you have any suggestions?
@@michelemarchese259 Just watch the video. 😊👍🏻 Tim
Really enjoyed your build and video. Thanks sir!
Jesse: Thanks for checking in! Tim
Great video and the airplane too. Thanks and take care, Tim.
Perry: Glad you enjoyed it! Tim
Very pretty! Hope you get it sorted.
👍🏻😁 Tim
Great video as usual. I always thought the Guillows construction methods with wide formers on the fuselage added too much aft weight. Next time I build a Guillows I will remove much of the material.
Good plan! Tim
Great video. One thought is to install the brick upside down (servos down) then the battery can sit on top of the brick, accessed from the front or the top.
Great idea, thanks! Tim
Loved watching your build Tim. Great video thankyou :-)
David: Glad you enjoyed it! Tim
Tim, Steven's Aero has been out of stock on all those Bricks forever. Do you know when they might restock? Great video!
Joe: No idea, likely an issue with supply and China. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Ive got some boards
Beautiful plane👍👍
👍🏻 Tim
Nicely done, I am now doing that same model and hope to have it flying in a couple of weeks
BW: Good luck with your build! Tim
Very informative and enjoyable to watch. I flew one of these 50 years ago free flight with the Pee Wee 0.020 engine. How would you compare the power of your electric motor to the Cox engine? I hope to build another and was going to use the gas engine again, but your conversion is a real possibility. Never thought about leaving the stringers off until radio gear was installed.
Jim: I'd say the Pee Wee had more power than these smaller electric motors. Maybe too much power. Good luck with your conversion! Tim
I enjoyed watching that. Would a bit of down thrust help at all?
GB: Thanks for watching! I did have a bit of down thrust, think the main issue is the model is a bit tail heavy. Will fix that next! Tim
Hi Tim, great video, the cowl idea was one I hadn't seen before. I agree, more nose weight, how did it compare to the plan? Great colour (color) scheme by the way 👍🙂
Cliff: Agree on the need for a bit more nose weight, added now. Tim
Hey, Tim! This is awesome! I’m putting a small Pee-Wee .020 engine slapped onto the front, would I still try to put all of the electronics so close to the front of the aircraft? Or to balance it would I bring it closer to the middle or back?
Thanks,
Monty
Monty: The Pee Wee .020 should work out just fine, plenty of power. My guess is your Piper will be a bit nose heavy with the .020 motor. It is possible you may need a bit of tail weight. As you build out the fuselage I literally tape on the wing, tail surfaces, motor and electronics to find the best location. Remember to add the fuselage 1/16” stringers after the electronics are in place, a lot easier. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 wow, thanks for the detailed reply! This will help heaps.
May be camera lens , but looks to me you have a twist in your wing ,this may be a cause for poor control . Nice conversion though .
Dave, Many thanks. On travel, will check that first thing when I return home. Tim
Definitely a warped wing . Could see it from the UK 🇬🇧
excelente, gracias
👍🏻 Tim
Great Job ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you 🤗 Tim
Well done.
Thanks! Tim
Beautiful work. Did you get the flight characteristics sorted?
Jaime: Yes, I did get the Piper flying well! Tim
Hi Tim I'm new to the hobby and this is the first plane i'm converting. I'm looking at buying the brick you used in the video as well as the FS-i6X controller. However i'm having trouble figuring out if they are compatible. Can you help? Thanks
Apologies, I am not sure on this. Maybe buy one and try? Tim
It looks like tail heavy, but I am sure you must have checked the CG and done the adjustments correctly. Another culprit may be AoA. Perhaps lowering the wing incidence may help solve the problem? Good video :-)
WS: Good points. CG was OK but lowering the wing incidence would have helped. Tim
What did you use for landing gear up front ? wheels, axle, etc. ?
BW I used 1/16" music wire for the gear, and bent this for the short axle. Wheels were some larger model tailwheels I had in the parts bin, see Ebay for model airplane tail wheels. Tim
The Hobby Zone power brick is discontinued. Is there an alternative?
M5: I am still poking around, but have not found a replacement yet. Will be a video the moment I discover something that works. Tim
Hey Tim, will the Guillows decals stick to the parklite covering? I can have sticker decals made if the originals don't work. Thanks
Chip: The Guillows water slide decals stick just fine on Parklite covering. No issues there. The decals can "age" a bit over time. I mist a light coating of Krylon clear coat spray over the decals, seems to keep them there fine. Tim
Please let me know the completed plane full weight and used electronic components separately
RM: Keep the weight under 3 ounces. I used ParkZone ultra-micro electronics. See them at www.StevensAero.com Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks, how about the propeller size is it 5 inches one
@@RasanthaM The prop is matched to the small motor, not sure of the size. Offered by www.StevensAero.com Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Many thanks for your support Mr Tim 👍
Hi Tim. Can you help me find "Park Lite (?) covering?
www.StevensAero.com and look for ParkLite iron on covering. www.HorizonHobby.com should have this as well.
Have you done the Cessna 170? I just got one and wanna try for a 4 channel. We shall see…
Scott: Cessna on the list! Tim
Please let me know the wingspan size for this
24 inch wing span. Tim
Do the guillows Cessna bird dog next
👍🏻😊 Tim
Did you end up sorting out the problems? Was it just C of G ?
Danny: To be honest the Piper never really flew right. The CG was OK. Sometimes with the smaller models the gremlins win out. Likely some subtle warp somewhere. Tim
TAIL HEAVY Pro tip, build the balsa then balance the plane with electronics and if tail heavy stop and modify to bring the motor farther foreward and your plane will float like a dream
👍🏻😊 Tim
Use all the ribs. Doping tissue is much easier.
👍🏻 Tim
Can anyone advice me what guillow kit is the best to begin with and add electronics ?
I already have the brick and the motor, but I have built a piper like 4 years ago, but that didn't go well.
Help would be apricated ;|)
WJS: For a first Guillow build, try the Arrow for sure. Easy to construct, flies great: ua-cam.com/video/iQ-vLefMynM/v-deo.html
Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks very much Tim ;)
👍🏻 Tim
ParkZone is no more. Any suggestions for an alternate set that includes all of the electronics you'll need?
Still a few left. Enter Parkzone ultra micro radio control into Google, several shopping options. Tim
I would use a wltoys F949 Receiver which uses a flysky transmitter protocol so you can still adjust rates.
@@JustSomeGuy38790 Sounds like a plan! Tim
Great!
👍🏻 Tim
I use carbon fibre push rods with wire z bends bound and drop of ca lighter stiffer and ajustable till the last z bend is ca on
Great method! Tim
What are the specs on the motor ?
BWM: These tiny, brushed motors do not really have specs. Rather, they work with their gearbox and one type of prop and lipo battery to produce enough thrust for about a 3 ounce model. See www.StevensAero.com for further details on these motors. Tim
Why doesn’t the cowl fit?
Just depends how much “stuff” is there for the size of installed motor. Tim
Depends on size of installed motor. Tim
I thought I only had maidens like that.
Hey, with the smaller planes, some work out and some do not. 😊 Tim
Nice video Tim. I built mine from the old die ‘crushed’ kit and it hasn’t worked out,
Not since maiden, half a dozen fixes and so on.
It’s been relegated to mantle piece duty temporarily.
Will be watching how you fix the bugs to get yours flying nicely.
I compare this with my son’s Parkzone Champ, and wonder why the Guillows with similar dimensions
(but slightly heavier weight).will simply not fly as well as the Champ.
Wonder if I may e- mail you for advice.
Apologies David. This should really have been posted as a comment to Tim !
Too little dihedral for a 3-channel model.
👍🏻 Tim
I heard Rudy say, "biscuit".
Or, “chicken.” Tim
Tim McKay that looks tail heavy I despise adding weight to planes but I have a buddy who's always telling me I need nose weight and more times than not hes actually right. That or too much up elevator it seemed to be stalling.
Romin: I agree. I am so hesitant to add weight that I do think the plane is a tad tail heavy. I epoxied another metal bolt under the motor. Model balances out, weight now 2.8 ounces. Will test fly here as weather allows! Tim
I built like 3 of these and none of them flew well lol
Yes, some of mine fly better than others. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 mine were free flight and had the same flying characteristics as yours. I just couldn’t add enough weight to the front to make it fly right. Have you converted any of the bombers? How do they do?
@@lilgreencanoe2936 No bombers yet. 😊
Does anyone really know how to pronounce "Guillow" ?. New York: GEE LOW. Texas: GIL OW, Minnesta: GUY LOW, Califormia:. DZHJEE YOW, Missouri: GIL OY, Indiana:, You" GWEEL YO
Yeah, there are several variations on a theme. Tim