Thanks for that. Lucky you having had no problems. My 2008 (160,000km) has just had new camchain, fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs and cam magnets. I found the central grommet difficult to fit.
Hello thanks for the video. Are the new updated cables to be added as an extension to the existing ones or do they completely replace the old ones? Thanks
It is about 8" long and is normally mentioned as an oil stopping cable. Even after installing this oil stopping cable open up the ECU box next to the engine to check if engine oil had reached the ECU board. If yes spray it with electronic dry contact cleaner. Let it air dry for 1 hour before putting it back.
I'm talking about the sensor on the left side. and Not the one of the two opposite. Because the sensor that I am talking about on the left side which is all alone, there is the anti-heat aluminum plate (the plate can be seen at 1 minute 15) which prevents access to the socket. Can you make a video to disassemble the 2 sensors which are on their own
Good morning. How long is your dipstick from tip until it's stopper side. I bought one dip stick having length of 570mm. Can you dip for engine oil level in the morning. After starting the engine wait 2 minutes and dip again with the engine still running. My dip stick gained oil level of not more than 3mm. I presume that this is an indication of piston rings still having not much of gas blow by. Engine oil topping up is less than 1/2 quart for every 5000km. Regards.
I'll have to check this for you in a few days, usually if you run the engine the oil will be a little higher as oil takes a while to travel back down to the sump afterwards. I keep my oil between mid and high mark and its fine. 1/2 quart every 5000km is within tolerance I'd say, depends on how many KM your car has done. Mine uses about that and it's done 145k km.
@@LueysGarage A week ago while changing the top cover rubber gasket found out that the inlet adjusters having 21 of its 44 teeth worn down to remaining 30%. No rattling sound. The other adjuster, still having all of it 44 teeth, they are worn down only by about 10 to 20%. The bad worn down adjust have 2004 stamped on it while the other one 2005 stamped on it. Going to be a USD2500 job. 😂😂 Regards.
@@whlawson5812 Not what you want! Surprising there's such a big difference between the 2. I do think Merc quality improvement heaps around 2004/2005. Before then it seems it was quite poor
The leak will seep oil into your wiring harness and ECU eventually. If the cam adjusters fail (not the same as the leak) then it'll just perform poorly at higher RPM
@LueysGarage But oil seeping from the cams sensor wire harness to the ECU would malfunction the module, would it not? I've already replaced both O2 oxygen sensors, but exhaust emissions are still very high. Also, the ECU is not throwing a fault code or engine warning light. What else might it be?
@@goinsouth5187 its possible but if the oil has gotten to the ECU etc I'd expect worse symptoms than that, did you check the plugs to the ECU to see if they have oil in them?
@LueysGarage No, not yet. I'm having it checked on Tuesday next week. My C180 is driving perfectly but burning a lot of fuel, and Co2 emissions are 3.7% at 2,700rpm when they should be below 0.20%.
@LueysGarage at idle, fuel reading can be as high as 14 or 15 lites/100kms. The lowest I've managed to get it on the motorway is 9.2 lires/100kms. Ideally, it should be between 7 or 8.
It all comes as a kit including the harnesses, you could just do the seals but I did actually notice my car performed better afterwards which might mean the magnets were getting a bit worn out after 140K km...either way the parts are cheap enough that its the time that is the biggest cost and so you might as well do the entire job
Why is your c200 kompressor so quiet? Mine has 123k on it and sounds loud. Replaced all mounts yet have a strange,yet slight grumble at about 2000rpm. Any ideas. Thank you
@lancegraham7722 did you try taking off the accessory belt and spinning all the pulleys? It's a common Merc problem around 100k km that all the pulleys will start wearing out especially the idler pulley(s). There's only 1 idler and 1 tensioner on the M271 so you can replace those easily. That's where I would start! Otherwise depending on the noise it's making there are known timing chain and tensioner issues. Hard to say without listening to the car and test driving the car
@@LueysGarage the big spring for the belt tensioner has a polymer sleeve acting supposedly as noise suppression. This was found damaged by my mechanic when replacing almost all the chain timing parts and the water pump for M271. Let's see if the engine is at idling rpm without the AC switched on would be less noisy.
I do think the engine was smoother afterwards but it was hard to tell. I think my old magnets were still working but I just wanted to prevent the oil seep
@@alexekb196 its the oil seal that seeps oil onto the electrical plug that can lead to damage as he explains in the video. Sometimes you can just take the seal out and flip it and it will seal again for several months to a couple of years.
Doesn't it depend on your units for your display? l/100km lower is better, km/l higher is better. Mine is set to km/l so when you idle the car the number will go down as you're using more fuel per km if that makes sense?
What was the problem? The oil ? Its not a problem for this engine. You'll see an oil in those place soon... There's a saying:" if it works don't fix it".
So my dad kept taking his car to Oil Changers which is like a quick lube thing here in New Zealand, they never actually did anything apart from change the oil and filter. Turns out he had this oil leak issue in his old C180K and caused the entire wiring harness to be fouled by oil. Cost thousands to put right and probably contributed to a premature starter motor failure too. You don't want to skim when it comes to electrics on modern cars so thanks for your opinion but you're misleading other people.
@@frankiegregoriou4604 installing a new rubber seal (o-ring) does not solve the problem of engine oil getting into wire harness. It needs the "oil stopping cable".
Another one who doesn't show how to deal with the rubber grommets as they are so tricky to change. You are so clumsy, doubt you dealt with the grommets yourself.
Thanks for telling me how terrible I am for putting up a free video to help other people 🤣 The grommets were a little tricky like I said in the video, its not easy to film something so small when you're pushing them in by yourself. You just need to put pressure on the grommet and slowly work your way around. I've dealt with a lot worse when it comes to cars
Thanks for that. Lucky you having had no problems. My 2008 (160,000km) has just had new camchain, fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs and cam magnets. I found the central grommet difficult to fit.
Yeah the central grommets are a pain, not sure why they didn't just fit them at the factory 😅
You also need to check the motor ecu cable connector for oil.
@@stormrider01 yes definitely! Very easy to check on these cars too
thank you my frien .. i from france
Glad I can help!
Hello thanks for the video. Are the new updated cables to be added as an extension to the existing ones or do they completely replace the old ones? Thanks
Its adding on to the existing harness/plug
It is about 8" long and is normally mentioned as an oil stopping cable. Even after installing this oil stopping cable open up the ECU box next to the engine to check if engine oil had reached the ECU board. If yes spray it with electronic dry contact cleaner. Let it air dry for 1 hour before putting it back.
the sensor b on the difficult access side will be three.
Do you have to remove the aluminum plate?
@@mimsxx1581 didn't have to remove anything else apart from what I showed on video
I'm talking about the sensor on the left side. and Not the one of the two opposite. Because the sensor that I am talking about on the left side which is all alone, there is the anti-heat aluminum plate (the plate can be seen at 1 minute 15) which prevents access to the socket. Can you make a video to disassemble the 2 sensors which are on their own
@@mimsxx1581 I've sold the car since this video
Good morning. How long is your dipstick from tip until it's stopper side. I bought one dip stick having length of 570mm. Can you dip for engine oil level in the morning. After starting the engine wait 2 minutes and dip again with the engine still running. My dip stick gained oil level of not more than 3mm. I presume that this is an indication of piston rings still having not much of gas blow by. Engine oil topping up is less than 1/2 quart for every 5000km. Regards.
I'll have to check this for you in a few days, usually if you run the engine the oil will be a little higher as oil takes a while to travel back down to the sump afterwards. I keep my oil between mid and high mark and its fine. 1/2 quart every 5000km is within tolerance I'd say, depends on how many KM your car has done. Mine uses about that and it's done 145k km.
@@LueysGarage A week ago while changing the top cover rubber gasket found out that the inlet adjusters having 21 of its 44 teeth worn down to remaining 30%. No rattling sound.
The other adjuster, still having all of it 44 teeth, they are worn down only by about 10 to 20%.
The bad worn down adjust have 2004 stamped on it while the other one 2005 stamped on it. Going to be a USD2500 job. 😂😂 Regards.
@@whlawson5812 Not what you want! Surprising there's such a big difference between the 2. I do think Merc quality improvement heaps around 2004/2005. Before then it seems it was quite poor
Apart from the leaking oil, what would faulty cam adjusters cause to the engine?
The leak will seep oil into your wiring harness and ECU eventually. If the cam adjusters fail (not the same as the leak) then it'll just perform poorly at higher RPM
Question: would oil seepage form faulty camshaft sensors throw a bad signal to the ECU and thus result in a failed Co2 emissions test?
I would say this shouldn't happen with the cam adjustor magnets but it could happen with other components or sensors
@LueysGarage
But oil seeping from the cams sensor wire harness to the ECU would malfunction the module, would it not? I've already replaced both O2 oxygen sensors, but exhaust emissions are still very high. Also, the ECU is not throwing a fault code or engine warning light. What else might it be?
@@goinsouth5187 its possible but if the oil has gotten to the ECU etc I'd expect worse symptoms than that, did you check the plugs to the ECU to see if they have oil in them?
@LueysGarage
No, not yet. I'm having it checked on Tuesday next week. My C180 is driving perfectly but burning a lot of fuel, and Co2 emissions are 3.7% at 2,700rpm when they should be below 0.20%.
@LueysGarage at idle, fuel reading can be as high as 14 or 15 lites/100kms. The lowest I've managed to get it on the motorway is 9.2 lires/100kms.
Ideally, it should be between 7 or 8.
What happens if the magnet socket comes out while the engine is running? Thank you .
You'd probably lose a ton of oil? Don't know if there's any other problems but sounds like a very unlikely scenario
Why replace the magnets and not just the seals?
It all comes as a kit including the harnesses, you could just do the seals but I did actually notice my car performed better afterwards which might mean the magnets were getting a bit worn out after 140K km...either way the parts are cheap enough that its the time that is the biggest cost and so you might as well do the entire job
Why is your c200 kompressor so quiet? Mine has 123k on it and sounds loud. Replaced all mounts yet have a strange,yet slight grumble at about 2000rpm. Any ideas. Thank you
@lancegraham7722 did you try taking off the accessory belt and spinning all the pulleys? It's a common Merc problem around 100k km that all the pulleys will start wearing out especially the idler pulley(s). There's only 1 idler and 1 tensioner on the M271 so you can replace those easily. That's where I would start! Otherwise depending on the noise it's making there are known timing chain and tensioner issues. Hard to say without listening to the car and test driving the car
@@LueysGarage thanks, will try this to start. Appreciate your time
@@LueysGarage the big spring for the belt tensioner has a polymer sleeve acting supposedly as noise suppression. This was found damaged by my mechanic when replacing almost all the chain timing parts and the water pump for M271. Let's see if the engine is at idling rpm without the AC switched on would be less noisy.
What role do these details play?
They change the cam lobes at certain RPM for Merc's version of variable valve timing
OE part number for this? I'm looking right now to replace mine but what I find doesn't look at all with what's on my car.😢
Have a look in the description, I've put part numbers in there already :)
Was there recognizable change in engine performance after changing the cam magnets? thank you for the video.
I do think the engine was smoother afterwards but it was hard to tell. I think my old magnets were still working but I just wanted to prevent the oil seep
What is a sign that these parts are faulty?
@@alexekb196 its the oil seal that seeps oil onto the electrical plug that can lead to damage as he explains in the video. Sometimes you can just take the seal out and flip it and it will seal again for several months to a couple of years.
@@UncalBertExcretes I didn’t understand anything))
Had my camshaft adjustmers replaced 6 months ago , just noticed theyre leaking again. Is that normal or dis the mechanic mess it up?
Not normal, take it back
@LueysGarage just did he pretend that it's fine and said I don't think its a leak just residue
@@nickpaparidis5602 use degreaser to clean it up then check later if its still leaking or seeping
@LueysGarage will do thanks , guy is supposed to be mercedes specialist last 40 years , must've lost interest
Is an ECU reset not necessary?
Didn't have to do anything with the ECU
Hi, Is that fix obd code P0075? Thz
Not sure sorry, I didn't get any codes yet I was just doing preventative maintenace since its such a common problem
Hi, after you started the Engine, i observed the consumption is decreasing while engine is warming up,mine is increasing.. do you know Why?
Thanks
Doesn't it depend on your units for your display? l/100km lower is better, km/l higher is better. Mine is set to km/l so when you idle the car the number will go down as you're using more fuel per km if that makes sense?
@@LueysGarage a great, i have l/100km, i understood now, thanks
I have the same engine plus lpg all Mercedes-Benz petrol the have the same problem I want to go and start do the job 💪😀💪💪😀 Tirana ALBANIA ❤
@@jimmymala2095 yeah lucky its an easy fix
I just can’t read the data from the fuel consumption display correctly. Can anyone explain how to correctly understand these meanings?
What was the problem? The oil ? Its not a problem for this engine. You'll see an oil in those place soon... There's a saying:" if it works don't fix it".
@Ренат-ж6ц it is a problem, my dad's W203 had to get a new wiring harness because it was too late and oil got into it
You are wasting your money 😂😂😂
So my dad kept taking his car to Oil Changers which is like a quick lube thing here in New Zealand, they never actually did anything apart from change the oil and filter. Turns out he had this oil leak issue in his old C180K and caused the entire wiring harness to be fouled by oil. Cost thousands to put right and probably contributed to a premature starter motor failure too. You don't want to skim when it comes to electrics on modern cars so thanks for your opinion but you're misleading other people.
@@LueysGarage what i mean is that you only have to change the rubber seals which cost less than $5 now you understand
@@frankiegregoriou4604 installing a new rubber seal (o-ring) does not solve the problem of engine oil getting into wire harness. It needs the "oil stopping cable".
Another one who doesn't show how to deal with the rubber grommets as they are so tricky to change. You are so clumsy, doubt you dealt with the grommets yourself.
Thanks for telling me how terrible I am for putting up a free video to help other people 🤣 The grommets were a little tricky like I said in the video, its not easy to film something so small when you're pushing them in by yourself. You just need to put pressure on the grommet and slowly work your way around. I've dealt with a lot worse when it comes to cars