Have an ‘81, these videos are just gold! Thank you for taking the time to post them. I know how much work it is to do the editing and posting. Thank you so much!
I am doing this job on my 75 because of you and your incredible knowledge (I even look a bit like ya) thanks I know it takes twice as long to prove this content bravo and well done
I just found this podcast. You did an absolutely great job. This is the best video I have ever seen. I always wondered how the rear end was set up as I am having my trailing arms rebuilt. This is extremely informative. You did a great job. Thank you very much.
Excellent Job. Much appreciated. Only thing is the tool you used to press that bearing in. Looks better than some of those I have been searching and looking at. Great video. Thanks
I have that exact same set-up tool, also bought from eBay, and I found the bearings to be more of a slop fit rather than a slip fit. I had to put shim stock between the tool and the bearings; otherwise, my measurements were unrepeatable and all over the place due to excessive lateral play.
Are you assuming that the trailing arm bushings are good and don’t need to be replaced this time, seams like a lot of work that my not last long without new bushings.
Question?? I just did this job on my 75. I set the bearing clearance at .004, packed the bearings, installed the spindle with new washer and nut, Torqued to 100fp and now I can't turn it by hand. I can with a persuader. Is this normal? Do I trust the .004? or should I take it apart and check it again?
Hey Thomas. You should be able to easily spin it after it's assembled & torqued down. Double check that theres no spare parts left out, especially the shim. Make sure the bearing carrier is properly installed on the trailing arm. Loosen the axle nut until it spins freely. If it does spin make sure it smooth. Then slowly retorque, checking the free spinas you go. You may have to disassemble and redo the free play. Good luck.
@@Volfandt Thank you. I set the other side at .006, got the same thing can't spin it by hand. I measured the old spacers and shims (with the new bearings and races) they measured .010 and .012. both with original .020 shims. I haven't tried them assembled and torqued yet. Thanks again I appreciate the advice. Love your video's, Thanks for posting them.
@@thomaswright2628 With this test the two remaining variables are the new races & bearings. I'm going to guess the bearings matched up with the originals correct? Double check that and that they spin easily before installing. Also double check that the races are totally seated. I know it can get frustrating rechecking everything and hopefully it ends up being something easy.
@@Volfandt Dust Shields!!! I took one apart and double checked the clearance. I put it back together pulling the axel through with a rachet instead of an impact. It felt good and spun free. I put the Spindle Flange on without the seal or dust shield and torqued it. It felt good and spun free. I put the inner seal in with the same result. When I put the Dust Shield in it tightened up and wouldn't spin. So once you seat the Dust Shield properly it works the way it's supposed too. Hopefully, if somebody runs into this problem, they can learn from my mistake. Thank you for the advice. I owe you a beer.
Dave, an absolutely awesome video, might be my favorite to date, although you have so many good ones, I would love to se a follow up one with the parking brake and the camber set, catch you real soon my friend
Hey Mike, thanks for the kind words. On the parking brake, the cable that runs to both wheels is rusted and won't move so I'm going to have to replace it. I'll be doing a follow up on that procedure. I've eye balled the camber and it seems to be OK. The wheels sit pretty much vertically straight up and down and from what I've read "0" camber is OK so I'm just going to monitor tire wear and adjust if/when necessary. I didn't change the camber setting up top and it's handling pretty good so we'll see. Carry On Mike.
@@Volfandt You're Awesome Dave, Ive been doing Eyelignments since 1991 and have 0 issues and ive done 80 to 150 of them... Good to see someone shares a good skill
I bought a whole hub assembly and want to do it the castle nut on to the 100 pounds torque but the rotor turns. Might be obvious but can you tell me how to get the rotor not to turn so I can torque the nut? Thanks
Take a long crowbar, crewdriver or thick pipe and place it between a couple lug studs to hold the hub still while you torque the castle nut down. You won't hurt the lug studs as long as you hold the bar tight against them. If you look when I'm running the castle nut up & torqueing it you should be able to see how I'm holding the hub still with a crowbar on the lug studs. Good luck
@@guitarhero9999 I would try to tighten to align the hole. Sometimes you can back off then retorque again and get the holes aligned. Don't go over 175 ft lbs tho and if it's taking that much back off to align. Good luck
I might have to do this job soon. It's really not clear to me why you installed everything on the car and not on the bench? I am missing what made it easier.
I got the rear wheel bearing & tool kit off of ebay. This link should work: www.ebay.com/itm/191684133936 It doesn't include the rear shock mount knocker. Don't get the one I used, get the longer one. It's more expensive but should work better than the short one I ordered and it didn't work. Good luck. It's not as hard as it looks when using the right tools.
I got the rear wheel bearing & tool kit off of ebay. This link should work: www.ebay.com/itm/191684133936 It doesn't include the rear shock mount knocker. Don't get the one I used, get the longer one. It's more expensive but should work better than the short one I ordered and it didn't work. Good luck. It's not as hard as it looks when using the right tools.
Getting a slight metallic rubbing sound that pulsates in time with the rotation of the left rear wheel upon acceleration, usually after a hard turn. Looks like I may be getting into this! Thanks for the video... very well.
If it's been a long time since you've changed out the rearend gear oil and you might do that 1st. Make sure to add atleast one bottle of AC Delco Genuine GM Fluid 88900330 Limited Slip Axle Lubricant Additive to the 80w90 or thicker gear lube. If the gear oil is good, get it jacked up on stands then start turning and listening. Could be a U joint or a wheel bearing or both. If you tackle it yourself just get the special tools and the job becomes a WHOLE lot easier. Good luck and thanks for watching M.A.
I might have to do the bearing job yet, but yesterday after searching for and failing to find the source of a noise like that I discovered it went away when I tool the hubcaps and trim rings off the wheels. Happy to have an easy one for once!
I didn’t see you check the clearance in the bearings like on the other videos they’re supposed to be between one and 8000s play in the bearings am I missing something here don’t give me wrong I love your video I’m getting ready to do the same thing starting tomorrow on a buddies Corvette
I did it in a previous video, heres the link: ua-cam.com/video/3rRbK8o3Uqk/v-deo.html Good luck on your repair. It's not as hard as you'd think as long as you've got the right tools.
You are using your slip joint pliers backwards. Getting the cotter pin holes aligned every time is a blessing in itself🙏🏽
Have an ‘81, these videos are just gold! Thank you for taking the time to post them. I know how much work it is to do the editing and posting. Thank you so much!
I am doing my first Vette, and this bearing clip helped me a lot. Thanks man.
@@oldguy1979 glad it helped.
I am doing this job on my 75 because of you and your incredible knowledge (I even look a bit like ya) thanks I know it takes twice as long to prove this content bravo and well done
Hey Garth, you poor thing, LOL. Good luck with your project, once you get in to it, it ain't nearly as bad as they say, LOL. Thanks for watching
I just found this podcast. You did an absolutely great job. This is the best video I have ever seen. I always wondered how the rear end was set up as I am having my trailing arms rebuilt. This is extremely informative. You did a great job. Thank you very much.
Thanks Gerald. I'm glad you found it informative. Good luck with your C3. They are worth the time & investment.. 👍
This whole series is top notch!! Thank you sir!
Glad you found something helpful, thanks for watching. 👍
Just found your channel. These are immensely helpful and detailed. Love it.
Hey Joe, welcome aboard. Glad you found some helpful.
Great video!!!!! Thanks and greetings! And congratulations for your nice job!!
Thanks for watching fuzter2007 👍
Once again another great video!! Hope you get some time to drive and enjoy now.
Thanks Judd. Headed out now for another cruise.
Excellent Job. Much appreciated. Only thing is the tool you used to press that bearing in. Looks better than some of those I have been searching and looking at. Great video. Thanks
Thanks Lanny, the tool came with the rear bearing kit off ebay. 👍
I have that exact same set-up tool, also bought from eBay, and I found the bearings to be more of a slop fit rather than a slip fit. I had to put shim stock between the tool and the bearings; otherwise, my measurements were unrepeatable and all over the place due to excessive lateral play.
That was a great example of mechanical workmanship 💪🏽💯
Thanks for the video very helpful
Thanks for watching.
Excellent, thanks a bunch
Thanks for watching
Are you assuming that the trailing arm bushings are good and don’t need to be replaced this time, seams like a lot of work that my not last long without new bushings.
You deserve a cold beer 🍻
Thanks, cheers 😁
Question?? I just did this job on my 75. I set the bearing clearance at .004, packed the bearings, installed the spindle with new washer and nut, Torqued to 100fp and now I can't turn it by hand. I can with a persuader. Is this normal? Do I trust the .004? or should I take it apart and check it again?
Hey Thomas. You should be able to easily spin it after it's assembled & torqued down. Double check that theres no spare parts left out, especially the shim. Make sure the bearing carrier is properly installed on the trailing arm. Loosen the axle nut until it spins freely. If it does spin make sure it smooth. Then slowly retorque, checking the free spinas you go. You may have to disassemble and redo the free play. Good luck.
@@Volfandt Thank you. I set the other side at .006, got the same thing can't spin it by hand. I measured the old spacers and shims (with the new bearings and races) they measured .010 and .012. both with original .020 shims. I haven't tried them assembled and torqued yet. Thanks again I appreciate the advice. Love your video's, Thanks for posting them.
@@thomaswright2628 With this test the two remaining variables are the new races & bearings. I'm going to guess the bearings matched up with the originals correct? Double check that and that they spin easily before installing. Also double check that the races are totally seated. I know it can get frustrating rechecking everything and hopefully it ends up being something easy.
@@Volfandt Dust Shields!!! I took one apart and double checked the clearance. I put it back together pulling the axel through with a rachet instead of an impact. It felt good and spun free. I put the Spindle Flange on without the seal or dust shield and torqued it. It felt good and spun free. I put the inner seal in with the same result. When I put the Dust Shield in it tightened up and wouldn't spin. So once you seat the Dust Shield properly it works the way it's supposed too. Hopefully, if somebody runs into this problem, they can learn from my mistake. Thank you for the advice. I owe you a beer.
@@thomaswright2628 ALLRIGHT, glad you ciphered it out. And congrats on tackling this repair. Carry On! 👍👍👍
awesome , special thanks
NICE JOB WELL DONE, I WILL FOLLOW!
Thanks for watching.
Don't know if I missed it so I'll ask. Did you use the Stainless Steel parking brake kit?
Yes, I got it through these folks:
www.volvette.com/BR047.html
(not a sponsor)
Dave, an absolutely awesome video, might be my favorite to date, although you have so many good ones, I would love to se a follow up one with the parking brake and the camber set, catch you real soon my friend
Hey Mike, thanks for the kind words. On the parking brake, the cable that runs to both wheels is rusted and won't move so I'm going to have to replace it. I'll be doing a follow up on that procedure. I've eye balled the camber and it seems to be OK. The wheels sit pretty much vertically straight up and down and from what I've read "0" camber is OK so I'm just going to monitor tire wear and adjust if/when necessary. I didn't change the camber setting up top and it's handling pretty good so we'll see.
Carry On Mike.
@@Volfandt sounds great Dave, I will be watching for the next video
@@Volfandt You're Awesome Dave, Ive been doing Eyelignments since 1991 and have 0 issues and ive done 80 to 150 of them... Good to see someone shares a good skill
I bought a whole hub assembly and want to do it the castle nut on to the 100 pounds torque but the rotor turns. Might be obvious but can you tell me how to get the rotor not to turn so I can torque the nut? Thanks
Take a long crowbar, crewdriver or thick pipe and place it between a couple lug studs to hold the hub still while you torque the castle nut down. You won't hurt the lug studs as long as you hold the bar tight against them.
If you look when I'm running the castle nut up & torqueing it you should be able to see how I'm holding the hub still with a crowbar on the lug studs.
Good luck
Thanks!! I will take a look tomorrow
Hi again…I am not so lucky my cotter pin is not even close…do I go more or less? It’s like in the middle so might be either 90 or 115
@@guitarhero9999 I would try to tighten to align the hole. Sometimes you can back off then retorque again and get the holes aligned. Don't go over 175 ft lbs tho and if it's taking that much back off to align.
Good luck
Thanks again! Hello from North Carolina!
I might have to do this job soon. It's really not clear to me why you installed everything on the car and not on the bench? I am missing what made it easier.
Hey Bill, it made installing the parking brake shoes easy. There's very little clearance otherwise.
Do you have part numbers for the kits you used?
I got the rear wheel bearing & tool kit off of ebay. This link should work: www.ebay.com/itm/191684133936
It doesn't include the rear shock mount knocker. Don't get the one I used, get the longer one. It's more expensive but should work better than the short one I ordered and it didn't work.
Good luck. It's not as hard as it looks when using the right tools.
Can you post the links to the tools and bearing kit you got?
I got the rear wheel bearing & tool kit off of ebay. This link should work: www.ebay.com/itm/191684133936
It doesn't include the rear shock mount knocker. Don't get the one I used, get the longer one. It's more expensive but should work better than the short one I ordered and it didn't work.
Good luck. It's not as hard as it looks when using the right tools.
Getting a slight metallic rubbing sound that pulsates in time with the rotation of the left rear wheel upon acceleration, usually after a hard turn. Looks like I may be getting into this! Thanks for the video... very well.
If it's been a long time since you've changed out the rearend gear oil and you might do that 1st. Make sure to add atleast one bottle of AC Delco
Genuine GM Fluid 88900330 Limited Slip Axle Lubricant Additive to the 80w90 or thicker gear lube.
If the gear oil is good, get it jacked up on stands then start turning and listening. Could be a U joint or a wheel bearing or both.
If you tackle it yourself just get the special tools and the job becomes a WHOLE lot easier. Good luck and thanks for watching M.A.
Thanks. Yeah, I took care of that a few years ago and the car doesn't get driven much.
I might have to do the bearing job yet, but yesterday after searching for and failing to find the source of a noise like that I discovered it went away when I tool the hubcaps and trim rings off the wheels. Happy to have an easy one for once!
I didn’t see you check the clearance in the bearings like on the other videos they’re supposed to be between one and 8000s play in the bearings am I missing something here don’t give me wrong I love your video I’m getting ready to do the same thing starting tomorrow on a buddies Corvette
I did it in a previous video, heres the link: ua-cam.com/video/3rRbK8o3Uqk/v-deo.html
Good luck on your repair. It's not as hard as you'd think as long as you've got the right tools.
So no race for the bearings?
Check out the previous episode at around the 4:50 mark:
ua-cam.com/video/3rRbK8o3Uqk/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching
@@Volfandt thank you I’m currently changing my spindles and bearings and figuring things out slowly this is my first Corvette.
@@TheNotoriousB.E.E.F 👍