Finishing and Testing the New Parallel 4 Link! Mighty Max Ep. 13
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- With a little card stock and some measuring, we create tabs to connect our new link bars to the narrowed Mustang axle on the Mighty Max. Designing tabs this way makes install a breeze and nearly impossible to mess up.
0:00 Intro
0:43 Previously on Garage Fab
1:50 Map Out Bushing Location (Card Stock Mock-up)
2:46 Determine Total Link Bar Arc
4:11 Rear Suspension Squat Explained
4:23 Anti-Squat Explained (Kinda)
6:24 How Much Slip Can a Slip Yoke Slip?
7:16 Card Stock Mock-up Continued
9:32 Create Wooden Templates
10:35 Use Templates to Cut Tabs Out of Steel Plate
12:05 How to Install Link Bar Tabs on the Axle
13:17 How to Set Pinion Angle Properly
14:55 Testing the Parallel 4 Link
16:44 Farewell My Friends
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Man awsome work!! I'm realizing how crappy my suspension work was over the last 25 years after seeing ur work Lol this is some of the best suspension break downs I've ever came across.
Haha! I’m with you buddy. The truck I’m always bragging about was actually a bucket of turds. I’m legit grateful some drunk idiot ended that project for me so I could start anew.
Practice makes better. So get to practicing!
What I learned today - I need a plasma cutter! Great video, thanks!
You do! If you value your time, it’s worth every penny.
Thank you Bill!
2 videos in 1 month?? This man is on a roll!
Hahaha! Bite me. Was sposed to be two weeks. One lazy day screwed that up.
@@GarageFab tomorrow you can do one more!
"this is the way" fabrication one days is short and others long
Ain’t that the truth.
It amazes me how you explain things that make it all seem so easy when ive struggled for years to wonder why this or that. Thanks!
Well making it sound easy is one thing. You’ll have to tell me if anything ACTUALLY made it easier. 🤔
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Such a good channel! I have learned so much, thank you!
Thank you, Adam! No better compliment exists. You are appreciated. 🙏
I just found your channel, and I've been binge watching all of your videos. I've been a diesel technician for 15 years and I'm looking to learn more about suspension design as well as fabrication. Your videos have already helped me tremendously. Very, very informative.
Yes! It’s certainly an rewarding hobby/career. Happy to be of service, Tracy! If you’ve got questions you know where to find me! Cheers!
16:01 does a great job of illustrating how the length/arc of the bars affects axle travel, forward and backward, via the travel of the floor jack back and forth on the floor. As always, another great video, ManKandy!
I've got lots of catching up tp do..... but every episode I've watch have been fantastic - just like this one. You're explanations have been so easy to follow. Thank you! 👍👍😎👍👍
HEY UA-cam Bots...... you need to share this channel more often!
Thank you, Joel! Now let’s see if that shout out to the algorithm actually works!! 🙌
The low-key table leg flex was gold!
Haha! I’d argue that wasn’t “flex” but it totally was. Thanks man 🙏
So satisfying watching airride travel! Especially in the R&D stages when it works exactly as it was thought out! 👏
And a nightmare when it doesn’t! 🤦🏻♂️ That happens more often than I’d like.
Thanks, Brad!
1998???? Pictures exist of that truck! I thought it was only a memory of a dream once forgotten.
Of course! I still have the truck!! Just kidding. Long gone. Don’t you have photos of your first everything?!
Outstanding video as always. Looking to 4 link my 68 F100 and these videos are giving me confidence I can make my own 4 link kit vs buying a 4 link kit. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Definitely the best way to do it my friend! Unless the kit is built with your specific vehicle in mind, it just might not work as it should. It’s not super complex once you understand the basics. Can’t wait to see what you build!
So well explained. Great video and so professional.
Much appreciated my friend! 🙏
The animations and miniatures that you use to illustrate your ideas and the mechanics is always my favorite part. I was a kid that preferred the picture books over printed words, haha. Great stuff man keep it up.
Haha! I recall those days. Flipping through books to see if there were pictures to determine if it was worth my time. I think we’re all visual learners to an extent.
Thank you Coty! 🍻
Great video as always great to see progress on your build
Tell me about it! The more progress made on this one, the sooner I can start on mine!! 😩
Thank you, Dave.
This video answered ALL of my parallel 4 link questions! Thank you for the tangents! That was a perfect simple explanation on how to set up my antisquat/antidive. I’m hoping to parallel 4 link my Jeep truck front and rear with bags.
That’s terrible for business, Gabe! If I answer ALL the questions now, future me is out of a job.
You got my attention with airbags on a Jeep! I can’t wait to see what you create. Best of luck on your project my man! 🙌
Glad your posting more videos. Happy your back
Thank you, Shawn! Just wish I could do this full time. One day maybe. 😉
@@GarageFab not many video are done in a simple way that really shows a lot of diy thought that goes into this type of work. Sometimes things look much more intimidating than they really are. Thanks for what your doing and keep it up.
Well if you’re encouraged to tackle it yourself then I’ve achieved my goal. You are appreciated my man!
@Garage Fab I didn't realize I've already commented on this video, but I have watched it several times and really like the way you explain making the template. This is useful in any hobby, especially car audio where you need plenty of tight fitting peoces. Thanks again, keep going at your pace. The quality is good enough that you don't need a huge quanity.
Enjoy all your videos. It's giving me alot of knowledge on how to build my 4link..Thank you...
Thank you, Andy! Can’t wait to see what you build! 🙌
Best channel on the tube out 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
Thank you man! The millions are coming any second now. I can feel it! 💵
The project is looking good! Glad to see another video, hope your Covid stays mild.
Thank you, Brother! I had one night of chills and a week of lung hacking but we were all lucky to have pretty mild symptoms. 🙌
Time to go back to work. 😩
Another great video! Thanks for making it.
Much appreciated, Clint. Thanks for watching it! 🙌
Watchin ur videos is inspiring. I heard thru the vines u were a Freaks member, me too 14 years now. Justin "copter" and I "fresno ch" just bagged a macro cab . Love the mighty Max's. Keep up the good work!
Thank you, Adam! That is true. I joined in mid 2007. I left a while back but not before snagging a bunch of really good friends and a beautiful wife.
I’m a little jelly. I’ve had multiple Mighty Max’s but never a macro cab. I’ve always wanted one or an Aussie extra cab. 😍
Love these videos. Fixing to redo the rear setup on my body dropped Tacoma. Upgrading from the 90s era reverse 4 link
Thank you Gabe! I can’t think of a better reason to spend time and effort on something.
Would you be willing to share your experience with a reverse 4 link? I’m preparing to create a video on the subject and I’d love info on a real world case. I’ve asked owners of trucks with reverse links and understandably they defend them with all they got. From my understanding of physics and geometry it’s a less than satisfactory design. But you’re the first I’ve heard that is actually looking to change. 🤔
If you’ve got questions, I’m always available. Good luck!!
My mind is blown with that plasma template trick
That changed my life. Still doesn’t beat a plasma table but it’s a lot cheaper. 🤷♂️
OUTSTANDING!!. nicely done
Thank you, Terry! Cheers!
@@GarageFab yeah your welcome. I guess the machine won't do my block. I mean it's only been since September that I dropped it off. ,so in lieu of that. I'm finishing my garage floor, pull the ranger in and start on the rear. I've got a 8.8 out if a mountaineer. Disc bracket LS,3.73. U really do enjoy tge suspension videos, I've watched them over and over. I know nothing about 4 links and such. So thank you. Maybe by the time,I finish all that I'll have my block back. Thanks again,really,really good stuff.
Sorry to hear that my man. That happens a lot more often than it should. You’d think businesses would do work so they can get paid and then get more work and repeat.
Well I’ll keep going so hopefully before long you’ll know everything about 4 links!
Good luck on your project! Sounds like it’ll be pretty sweet.
Awesome as always. Now I’m going to have to double check my stuff lol. Hope you and your family stays well.
And thank you as always, fellow Miller!
Don’t double check. That stuff is depressing. Future you will always hate the work of past you. That’s just what happens when we get better at stuff. 🤷♂️
@@GarageFab very very true
Woohoo bring on the watts 😍!!!! Glad you all are doing better!!
Thank you! Wish I was still stuck at home though. 😔
Always wanted to fan my own suspension. Looking at buying a kei truck and attempting to make it ride better parallel 4 link in the real and full arms up front. These vedios will definitely help
I would be hyper jealous of your build. I have a weird passion for projects that are simultaneously cute and bad ass. Future projects of mine are a V8 off road Smart car and the world’s smallest street legal bagged mini truck.
I look forward to your build! If you’ve got questions I’m here. Cheers!
great video!
Thank you, Brother! 🙌
Love the channel!thumbs up
Thank you, Pat! 🙏
As always fantastic video and information thank you! Hope you and the family recover fully from cooties. 👍
Thank you Ryan! Everyone is doing great, thank you for asking. My Wife still has no taste but I’m pretty sure she never has. 😂
Cheers!
@@GarageFab lol🤣🤣🤣
At least five things I`ve learnt here so I´m thankfull to Covid and of course to you for making this Video.
Hahaha! Yeah. We were blessed to have really mild reactions so I kinda wish it stuck around a little longer. Now I’m back to work already. 😞
If you are running a carby, and you haven't installed your engine yet, but you do have the intake manifold, you can work out the angle of the pinion by seeing what angle the baseplate for the carby is. This of course goes out the window with an EFI engine, which you can set the angle of the engine to suit the pinion angle.
That’s an interesting question! I suppose it’s a possibility. But it sounds like a real challenge and therefore a big risk. It would be so challenging to predict how much movement you’ll have in the trans tunnel and any change in height of the engine would change your angles.
If you stick around, you’ll see me constantly trying to avoid math and in turn avoid mistakes. I really dislike doing things twice. I think this would be one of those times.
@@GarageFab yeah, gotta love all those variables and tolerances that you've gotta include :)
I've noticed how much you love the math :D
Love this series! It's giving me confidence to try and make my own suspension..not sure it will go this well, but at least I'll know where I went wrong! 🙂
Best compliment ever. That’s the whole goal here. Confidence is key. You can’t learn if you don’t make mistakes. You can’t make mistakes unless you start. And you won’t start if you don’t have the confidence.
Good luck, Steve! Can’t wait to see what you create. 🍻
@@GarageFab hey thanks man!(kandy) I want to fab a wishbone upper arm for my mercury lowrider. I'll be sure to watch the suspension series again and take notes before I begin. Any tips appreciated!
Do it! I’m always available for questions if needed. 👏
@@GarageFab 🙏thanks so much!
Banger!! You got me hooked for the next video, what are those mysterious tabs for 🤔 watts, shocks, cantilever, damn it i need to know!
Haha! None of the above. And probably half as cool as any of those. 😅
Great video. Makes me miss my mighty max that much more lol.
They’re getting cheaper the older they get! Maybe it’s time to pick up a project? 🤔
My dream is a macro cab with a 4g63t. It will be mine one day.
I’m with you. I’ve always wanted a macro cab, that or the double cab they only have outside of the US. 😍
Great Vid.. 🏁
Thank you, Juan! 🙏
@@GarageFab the way you explain your vids and the humor is awesome.
Haha!! Glad you find my weird humor humorous! You’re appreciated my man!
"Wow!" Lol ❤ it!
Thank you!!! 🙌
People should start doing adjustable brackets in my opinion because if u ever go with different wheels say bigger or smaller u can make corrections or even if you wanted to throw some coil overs and go racing 🏁. Racecars have 4 links and they have way more adjustability because all tracks are different. They actually use adjustability to create rear steering.
Very true. I used to try to convince my customers to build their vehicles with with the future in mind. Not so much “adjustability” but the ability to upgrade easily. Like, build the frame notch for bigger wheels even though you swear you won’t ever want them. And raise your bed floor 6 inches rather than 3 in case you want to body drop in the future.
I was just talking to a guy earlier today about creating brackets that would accept both air springs or coil overs.
I think maybe you should be the first, Rafael! 👍
@@GarageFab I've thought about it since I like racing 🏁 also
I am enjoying your detailed explanations. I wonder if you might explain the philosophy behind the Miata suspension in relation to the hard link ( It is an L-shaped aluminum beam ) between the transmission and the differential. They reportedly also used elastomer bushings on certain potions of the linkage so the rear suspension would act as additional steering when compressed in a hard turn. Supposedly this was intentionally done to aid cornering. Viewing your expansions on rear suspensions have given more insight to perhaps why they did this or that. A common swap when placing big horsepower engines in a Miata body is to use a Cadillac differential in a custom rear frame yet keep the 4 wheel independent suspension system plus attempt to transfer all that power to the pavement. Any way thanks. I am more of an aviation guy but love working on cars too. The beauty of the Internet, it allows one to follow the tributaries of your mind’s curiosity. This is how and why I found you. Thank you for your desire to share. As you said, “Knowledge makes you happy.” That statement resonates. Some people believe kept knowledge is power. I reject this philosophy for it is share knowledge which makes us all strong. Keep up the superb work. This is a pat on the back from a fan.
You’ve piqued my interest! I’m not familiar with the suspension you’ve mentioned. Even after attempting some research all I could find were some beefy H shaped control arms. What was the year Miata you’re speaking of?
The only other method of suspension “rear steer” I’m familiar with is from a solid axle and link bar setup. This was intentionally done on my last mini truck. By angling the bars downward slightly it creates a situation where when the body rolls, the links push one side of the axle backward and pulls the other side forward, resembling forklift steering.
I loved it but I have since heard that is terrible for traction. I honestly can’t grasp why that would be.
Thank you for the kind words my friend! You are greatly appreciated. The Garage Fab channel is somewhat selfish. I’ve spent my life chasing money and other silly things. Recently I switched to chasing fulfillment. That’s been much easier to find, and sharing knowledge has been a great source.
@@GarageFab Mine is a 1990, born in January of that year. The set up, is a wish bone front and rear and in my obsession with this vehicle, I came across a British pair of gents who provided research as to the origin of the make. They produced a coffee-table quality book, which I have loaned out and do not have in front of me, which briefly discussed what I brought forward. I had heard whispers of the suspension system with the softer mount and why it was done but, it was allusive. When I recover the book, I will inform you. To me it was genius to allow the forces from cornering to deform the bushing to assist in steering by changing momentarily the dynamics of the rear suspension. I expect many of the engine swap people are not aware of this feature. I have given you all but nothing of additional information but I will do my best to bring it to you as my lack of organization will provide.
@@GarageFab Graham Borrajo, I might have the spelling wrong, produced a wonderful quality done superbly entertaining piece on the history of the MX-5 Miata. Look it up on UA-cam. I will double check the spelling.
@@GarageFab Found it! The book discrimination of the suspension is called, ‘ ThE Book of the MAZDA MX-5 MIATA, The ‘Mk1’ NA- series 1988 to 1997” by Brian Long. Pages 34-37 shows details plus this blurb, “ Kilimanjaro-famous for his perfectionism-allowed the forward lower suspension bushing to deform slightly under cornering to give the rear wheel a minute amount of toe-in: an ingenious idea.”
Ok that was an incredible video. It must’ve taken him months and months to produce that. Mind boggling.
As for the trans/diff connector and the rear suspension… I don’t think I could explain it any better than the video already did.
And I honestly can not grasp how that rear suspension could create any “rear steer” Without seeing it in person I don’t see how the additional weight on one side under heavy cornering would/could cause any twisting of the rear knuckle to produce any sort of directional change.
I used to Autocross with the SCCA and I’ve seen the Miata in action. So there’s no arguing that the manufacturer did it right. But aside from the lightness and the vehicle’s balance, I just can’t SEE the performance!
Thank you for share. That’s over an hour of my life that I can’t get back… but I don’t mind!
Cheers!
Suggestion for a video if I may..? Sprung and unsprung weight and how it effects a vehicles demeanor. As for all your hard work and teachings, tip of the cap man. Keep ‘em coming bro.
That’s going slightly beyond “Suspension Basics” but I imagine if the UA-cam algorithm appreciates the series I might just have continue on! Thank you, Warren. You are appreciated. 🍻
@@GarageFab oh for sure fully agree just an idea suggestion..Anyways I’ll leave it up to Garage Fab to explain sprung and unsprung weight for it does effect tons in our world especially with rims the size of yard sticks practically:hint hint: anyways man right back at cha with the appreciation. I’ll post videos mid February after my ‘Nightmaro’ gets done(4th gen camaro) of the progress. See ya on the next one. 🤙🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@Exquisitewrk I’m looking forward to it!
Love the content brotha! I cant believe how many people say my bars are going to break because they are bent. 🤦🏼♂️
I’ve yet to hear a viable reason or data to back it.
I guess I’d have to see them to know for sure. Bending certainly weakens them but in most cases it would still take a huge amount of horsey power and traction to bend or break one. Haters gonna hate. 🤷♂️
Thanks
My pleasure! Thank you Sir.
Ok Mankandy, you are about to spend all of my project money showing me how to properly build and set up my 91 Ranger 8.8 Explorer axle swap! I was just going to suspend the truck o the factory leaf springs but I am now thinking about how sssssweet bags and links would be!
It’s an addiction man! If you don’t bag it now you’ll probably just do it later. 🤷♂️ You’ll actually be saving money by doing the work once. 🤔
I wish you were my neighbor. I have a 85 diesel d50 the mighty Max's sister truck and I want to bag it. It's all stock and watching your videos I am way less confident in my abilitys😂
Well that’s kinda backward of how I intended, Ben! You’re supposed to watch my videos and then suddenly have an abundance of confidence!
And the way I see it, thanks to the interwebs, we are neighbors! Even better actually. Because if you were my actual neighbor, I’d help as much as you needed, but then I’d resent you for taking up all my free time.
I’ve got LOTS of time to share knowledge, answer questions, coach, advise… So get out there and tackle the D50! I’ll help where I can.
Cheers mate!
@@GarageFab well I definitely know alot more thanks to all your videos but it does seem more of a task than I previously thought. For it being the first time I've done anything this major to a vehicle
I feel you. Hardest part is getting out of your head and getting started. Maybe it takes 3 times longer than you think it will.
Maybe you’ll get stuck. But you’ll figure it out. And The pride you’ll have driving it later will far outweigh all the suck.
I just found your channel and love the fab work and explanations! What is the little mini hole saw bit that you use on the drill press for the heim bolt holes?
Thank you my man! Very much appreciated.
Scroll down in the description of the video and you’ll find some Amazon links to the two sets of hole cutters I have. If you can’t find it, look up Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters.
They’re pretty pricy but worth every penny.
As an owner and builder of a bagged 91 Silverado step side, shaved and lays out on 22’s(which were big in 01’ when built) I gotta admit you’re really inspiring me to kick the dust off the rado’ redo my back half(forgot to mention sitting for ten years).Yikes.. regardless my friend keep up the awesome work man and just fyi I like how you take a non biased factual based approach to most of if not all of your videos. Two thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻.. question..? Remember the T-shirt company that was marketed towards bagged trucks? Early 00’s ish..I have one that shows a bag and says pssssstt… few others like got bags??? What’s the name I’ve been racking my brain and I’m sure with a google search I can find em easily but hey man if you remember/know and got the time to answer that would be fantastic! Keep up good work man!
Drop’Em Wear is the company I’m most familiar with. I think they’re still going at it! I’ve still got a few shirts that have been demoted to shop rag duty.
If you were motivated enough by my videos to tear back into your Silverado, I could die happy. Encouraging people to get to work is the entire purpose of the channel. First by showing it’s not as complicated as it seems, and second, Damn it’s fun!
Can’t wait to see it rolling again. Get to work!
@@GarageFab as per your videos and this response, you’re always to the point and highly motivating..I’ll Keep you posted. Thanks man.
🙌
Drop em wear. They still go to alot of the truck shows with there store trailer. I know there at mini nats every year.
Hey brotha awesome videos , just wondering where you get the card stock for your templates looks like a game changer.
Thank you, Christian! I get it from a local upholstery supply shop. Not much help if you’re not in Vegas.
For that reason I’m trying to track down the manufacturer so I can sell on my website once the store is up and running.
I 17:02 17:02 love your content it’s given me a better understanding of suspensions. I am struggling setting up my own suspension I’m not sure what works best for a road car. I want good cornering and drivability it’s not a drag car. I can get a parallel system in but top arms are only 75% of bottom length. Will a parallel system work like this or should I be aiming for an instant centre. If so what’s should I be aiming for ,long/short IC. There’s plenty of info out there for the drag and 4wd guys but when it comes to just having a nice street car that can handle and perform well there’s not a lot of info.
Thank you, fellow Aron! Unfortunately I’m not knowledgeable enough to tell you what design is best for your application. I decided to teach Suspension Basics because I have a firm grasp on how suspension components move and interact with each other. I don’t have a lot of understanding of the physics of the different designs.
What I can tell you, however, is that my advocacy for the parallel 4 link is based solely on vehicles with adjustable height suspensions. When you are able to drive at 2 inches, 11 inches and everywhere in between, it’s important that your pinion angle remains constant to protect your U joints. A parallel link setup will do just that. BUT! You sacrifice some traction with a parallel 4 link.
In order to achieve better anti squat, the shorter upper bars you mentioned are used. Not only are the bars not the same length but you also usually mount the front bar ends closer together. (NOT parallel)
The answer to the long/short IC question varies based on the vehicles center of gravity and the intended use of the vehicle. For cornering, I don’t know what’s best.
Don’t quote me, but I believe “roll center” is more important in turns. That’s the imaginary point the vehicle body rotates around which is determined by the suspension design.
Hope this at least steers you in the right direction. Pun intended.
Lemme know what you find!
Sic who’s needs a cnc table lol
Right?! I mean I need a CNC table because I’m lazy and I’d rather press some buttons.
But it’s definitely not a requirement!! 😀
I’m am in the beginning stages of a triangulated link system using an 8.8. It may or may not have been explained but why not just use the stock upper bushings on the rear axle? Gonna be a wild mighty max. Thanks
You didn’t miss an explanation. The big question is What type of suspension are you building? Static or adjustable. If you plan to run coilovers, you absolutely can use those mounts though I’d suggest you replace the rubber bushings with spherical bushings.
With adjustable suspension, things need to be changed for the sake of your drive shaft U joints. Mainly the upper link bars need to be made much longer than they were in the Mustang to match the lower link bars. The angle of the 8.8 bushings and their position on either side of the differential causes problems with that. Basically re-using those mounts would mean the upper triangulated bars would be at an angle that doesn’t match the 8.8 bushing mounts and the bars would not be a great enough angle to keep your axle firmly centered under the chassis. You’d probably still need a panhard bar and that would be weird. 🤔
I have a 67 c60 I'm hopefully bagging soon will 3x3 square tubing 1/4 inch work for a four link setup and panhard bar or watts be better it is a 2 ton truck
pretty sure Tangent was a rock band in the 90s
I wouldn’t know. I wasn’t even alive yet.
Great work. love the channel . What type of drill bits are you using? Thanks
Hey John! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own…
Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ
Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5
@GarageFab Awesome, thank you
@GarageFab both set are on their way. 👍I appreciate you!
Lemme know what you think! I already know you’ll be thrilled with the machine quality hole.
Pro tip, use the included center punches to locate the hole. Then use a small drill bit to make it a little deeper. It provides a much more stable guide for the spring loaded pins and less chance for the pin to jump out. Best of luck!
There needs to be some angle for the joints on the driveshaft to work properly, so maybe 0 degrees is a bad example. lol
You’re not wrong, but zero degrees doesn’t necessarily mean there will be zero degrees on the joints themselves. If the differential is 13 inches off the ground and the truck is cruising low with the transmission hovering at 4 inches, the shaft is sloped giving you that angle you’re looking for for bearing lubrication.
Also, it can be argued that with modern lubricants, angling the joints slightly isn’t as crucial as it once was. The new Toyota Tacomas in particular have a double U joint in front and a perfectly straight single at the differential. It’s not often that we replace U joints at our shop. 🤔
@@GarageFab Good info. I will probably go back to your suspension videos, but I was trying to visualize what effect suspension travel with a parallel 4 link would have on drive shaft/U joint angles. I get that the transmission is fixed, and the rear end doesn't change pinion angle, but as the suspension travels wouldn't the u-joint angle change? What would you say is the maximum angle of a u-joint for reliable operation? Great to see a new video, sorry about the cooties. lol
You’ll benefit a lot from a video I’m working on all about drive shafts. I’m building a machine that can put a drive shaft in multiple positions to show how the rotating speed of the shaft is affected as the u joints flex.
You’ll have to wait for the “why” but just know that the important thing is that the pinion angle and transmission output shaft angle is complimentary. (Shafts should be parallel) If your suspension keeps these angles constant, even though the U joint angles are in fact changing, the front u joint angle and the rear u joint angle are the same providing proper drive shaft operation.
I honestly don’t know what the maximum angle is but it would be really difficult to get there. Maybe with 30 inches of lift in the rear suspension? My point is you probably shouldn’t need to worry about maxing out a drive shaft with typical suspension modifications.
@@GarageFab Thanks. I was wondering about it after watching this, and wasn't sure how much lift it would take to affect it. I'll keep an eye out for the next video.
Is the 3rd Link video up, possibly under a different name? Or still in the planning/production phase?
Not yet! I’m in the process of collecting some parts to build some sample suspension designs. I’ll be starting filming shortly.
An 8in stroke is nothing to be ashamed of young man. If that's still not enough just use more Strokes! That's what I do.😢
But what if I just don’t have anymore?
@@GarageFab did you ever find out a good source for piston rings? I need them for my 98 S10 2.2 L bored .030 over. Yes it's kind of old and Oddball but is American and I can't seem to find them anywhere. Any suggestions?
A “good” source? No. I got lucky and found some factory Mitsubishi rings on eBay. Have you already checked all the big name sites? Jeg’s, Summit, Speedway, etc?
@@GarageFab all them and more. I may try the dealer since u had luck. Of course I mean the GM dealer, not Mitsubishi. I also need main bearings .035 over. Someone spent some big money on this pos years before I got it. So what is your day job?
@@GarageFab when you have no more, go to sleep 😴
So when you bag a truck wouldn't be better for a single drive shaft? What if it has a 2 peice?
Short answer is yes. The additional length of a single piece shaft will decrease the working angle of the shafts joints. Long answer… There are a couple different types of two piece shafts. Some have traditional U joints while some have double Cardan joints. The double Cardan follows different rules when designing your suspension for correct pinion angle and it’s a bit more challenging.
I would prefer to have a two piece shaft with traditional U joints for simplicity sake.
A two piece COULD technically be better than a solid shaft as it’s more likely that you can match the length of your link bars to the part of the shaft that articulates. The challenge, though, is that you MUST match the link bars to the shaft to keep from pushing and pulling on and damaging the carrier bearing. And because the moving part of shaft is shorter, it limits the amount of suspension travel you should have.
Just remember if the link bars and drive shaft are the same length, they will move on the same arc, and therefore the pushing and pulling is eliminated.
Hope that wasn’t overwhelming, Dale.
Lemme know. Cheers!
Could you use the original front leaf mounts for the lower link mounts to the chassis?
Absolutely. As far as strength is concerned, that point on the frame was designed for those exact forces.
The trouble with that, though, is if you plan to lower the frame to the ground (like with air suspension) that point often hangs down below the bottom of the frame. Which would prevent the frame from laying flat on the ground. But on a lowered static height vehicle, say with coil overs, using the leaf spring mount as a linkbar mount would be just fine.
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
As always, Thank you, Fredie! 🙏
What is that you are using to drill the holes in the tabs? Is it some unique drill bit or like a tool for a mill?
Nope! You can chuck them in a hand drill if you’re steady and patient enough.
Those are Hougen RotaCut hole cutters. I’ve got a small diameter set and a large diameter set. They’re kinda spendy but they are by far the best hole-makers I’ve ever used.
There are links to the specific sets in the video description, or just search for Hougen RotaCut!
Was going to ask the same!
@@scrapingpavement Get some! Just beware they break easy if they bind. Never broken one in the drill press but broke several in a hand drill. 😬
Nice work I really liked it. What pipe sch did you use. We’re can I get this links . Do you have drawings that you can share
Thank you, Gabriel! The lower links are 2x2 square quarter wall and the uppers are 1.5 inch 1/8 wall tubing. These link were built specifically for this truck so they probably wouldn’t fit your application. You can order all the parts from Thorbros.com 🙌
Thank you, Gabriel! The lower links are 2x2 square quarter wall and the uppers are 1.5 inch 1/8 wall tubing. These link were built specifically for this truck so they probably wouldn’t fit your application. You can order all the parts from Thorbros.com 🙌
Hey brother, how wide are the poly bushings and sleeves you welded onto the bar ends? I ordered some 2.5’s, but wondering if I should have done 3” wide
It varies based on the size of the bar material I'm using. I like to have 1/4 inch of sleeve sticking out beyond the bar to create a ledge for the weld.
On this project my upper bars were 1.5 inch tube, so my sleeves were 2 inches wide. Bar ends are listed by their total width (including 1/4" polyurethane on both sides) so I used 2.5 inch bushings.
A simple rule of thumb... Just add an inch to whatever bar you're using.
My lower bars were 2 inch square, so I installed 3 inch wide bushings.
The size isn't extremely important unless you're trying to fit existing link bar tabs.
@@GarageFab you are the man! Thank you! I’m a big fan of your detailedness and content.
Cantilever shock mount on upper tabs?
Hahaha! Not quite that exciting unfortunately.
I’m sure I missed it, but how do you know how much you can angle bars for anti squat and not go to far? My bars are 32-1/8” and was about to redo my axle mounts because it was 2-1/4” low at the rear end.
So I went back and watched again, I swear I have your videos a hundred times..lol but I seen where you say you make the parallel links level when laid out and that’s how you know the angle is correct?
@@clifton6693 Unfortunately my level of knowledge will only get you close. Determining the perfect bar angle isn’t a simple thing to do. In a racing application where this stuff really really matters, you would have to find the center of gravity of your particular vehicle. You would also have to determine the instant center of your rear bars. (The imaginary point that the upper and lower bars would intersect if you drew a line through them. [A Parallel link setup would have an infinite instant center as the bars would never intersect]) Perfect antisquat is determined using these two factors as well as the design of the link setup.
This goes far beyond my abilities!
My advice to set up your bars parallel to the ground when laid out is to help get people to at least angle their bars in the proper direction to at least provide SOME antisquat when the vehicle is lifted. I thought it was important because I often see folks with the bars angled the wrong way. (Front bushings lower than rear bushings) Which worsens squat and kills rear traction. The steeper the angle in the proper direction, the more antisquat you have and therefore the more traction you have, to a point.
You can absolutely have too much antisquat which will lift your rear end on acceleration which is also bad.
If you angle your rear lower bars to point somewhere near the top of the front tire, you’ll be kinda sorta in the right position.
Sorry I couldn’t help more. Thanks for your time my friend.
Thank you for reply sir!
Can you provide a link to were you get your bushing and rod ends?
Absolutely, Colton.
thorbros.com/collections/4-link-bushings
There’s usually a pretty hefty wait time, but the product is great. I’m looking into what it would take to make my own.
And if you find someone with a good product and fast service, I’d love to hear it! Best of luck!
so you said when setting the pinion angle it should match the engine and trans. is that at ride height?
Short answer: Yes.
More convoluted: It depends very much on what vehicle it is and what it’s used for. A typical street vehicle with angled link bars and static height suspension, the pinion angle should be parallel with the transmission at ride height.
Am adjustable vehicle that can ride at several ride heights, the pinion angle should have a constant pinion angle that doesn’t change as the vehicle height changes so that it remains parallel with the trans at all times.
A drag racing vehicle with leaf springs, should have a pinion angle that that is slightly off-parallel but lines up when the vehicle is under load going down the drag strip. (Because leaf springs allow some rotation of the axle.)
Lemme know if any of that wasn’t clear.
Cheers my friend!
@@GarageFab thank you that makes alot of sense. I appreciate it and the videos you post. Keep it up my man.
Thank you! I appreciate you. 🙏
Hey brother I am working on a 87 r10 Chevy short bed. I was thinking of buying a triangulated 4 link where the bags are just behind the axle and the enter bars are connected to a bracket that bolts to my 10 bolt rear axle pumpkin. It’s around 1000$ but not sure if I want 4 link or air. Which is more cost effective and practical?
My father had one of those. I’m a little jealous.
I’m going to interpret your question as “static suspension or air suspension.” Correct me if necessary.
Both systems will require a 4 link.
I prefer air suspension but not for it’s practicality. If you don’t want to deal with blown air springs on the freeway, leaking fittings or sticking valves… go with coilovers. But nothing beats the cloud-like ride of air suspension and it’s pretty freaking sweet letting the air out in parking lots.
A 4 link used with air springs and a static 4 link will be different though so decide which way you want to go before you buy a kit!
Can’t wait to see what you choose! 🙌
I neglected to mention cost. Good coilovers are much more expensive that air springs, but with air you also need tanks, lines, fittings, compressors, some sort of controller… I think coilovers would be cheaper in the end.
But again, that air ride though! 🥰
@@GarageFab thank again. I’m leaning toward air.
What kind of drill bit are you using at 11:35? Thanks!
Those are Hougen RotaCut hole cutters. I’ve got a small diameter set and a large diameter set. They’re kinda spendy but they are by far the best hole-makers I’ve ever used.
There are links to the specific sets I have in the video description, or just search for Hougen RotaCut!
Hope your doing OK. Im not gonna lie I wish you stayed home every week to make vids
Hahaha! Me too man. If I could just win one single measly lottery…
Thank you my friend. 🙏
At 5:25 when that truck comes down, I see a FON tribals. Is this yours or someone elses
You’re an Eagle Eyed Ogre! I was once a Freak. Now I’m just a lone Minitrucker. 🤷♂️
I earned my tribals in august. North Alabama chapter. When I saw this I had to do my research lol.
Haha! Well congrats my man!
Air cantilevered coilovers?????
Not nearly that cool unfortunately. 😔
@@GarageFab I still have confidence that it will continue to be badass build. 💪 You do some awesome work and are extremely elaborate of the process. Keep up the amazing work dude 🤟
Thank you my man!!
Q. How da f*** does he not only know how to fab it all…but how did he learn all the rules ???
I don’t know all the rules. But I was blessed with a lot of kind, knowledgeable people that were willing to teach me many of them.