I’m an reputable autowatch installer. Thanks for giving car thieves heads up. That’s why we companies get a reputation for being behind car thefts. Then wonder why your business is running down.
Thank you for your concern designe munsamy, if you really had any sort of clue what you were talking about you would KNOW that this is clearly not going to show how to steal the car… as it is quite clearly stated in the video….. If indeed you are a “reputable autowatch installer” then I have to ask… why are you watching the video to bypass?.. You would KNOW that this is just bypassing the immobiliser and you still need the key to turn the ignition on and to crank the starter/run the engine. This is purely to get you out of the s**t if you are the owner of the vehicle and you have the key. So like I said thanks for your completely irrelevant comment… and thanks for the view.. they all help.
Thank you so much. Saved me a load of headache chasing looms and stuff to disable the immobiliser and/or costly work from a professional. My remote(s) had stopped functioning and the autowatch 674 ri would not go into key pairing mode despite my having the master code and being able to manually override the immobiliser doing the key turning dance. It was like the key pairing function just would not trigger the way it should have according to the manufacturer manual. It would be interesting to see what sort of current is getting pulled given the double-up on wires on the plug. A related thought is that tapping into these two pairs of terminals on the connector could easily be converted into other, separate physical, kill switches for the fuel pump and starter circuits, if as I assume the current draw is low you wouldn't even need to add extra relays. Probably some opportunity to tap into the rest of the loom to re-add remote central locking with a cheap module.
@@knowledgeisblissSA so there's one pig tail that's just black wires, now two of those are for your fuel pump and two are for ignition. Some messing around and you'll find out which is which
@@Chris_CDBsame thing for me , worn out micro-switch on the circuit board of the fob , On the older fob’s , as I had , I removed the switch cover from the circuit board and used a thin bit of U shape wire , I kept on my key ring until I could replace the fob . Under the micro switch on the circuit board you can see the two small dots of solder . You only need to touch the end’s of the U shaped wire on each side of the solder to bridge the gap , if it works you will hear the usual door or solenoid clicking sound . I did this for 12 months or more until I could afford to pay someone to replace and reprogram a new fob 👣🦘 good luck .
Nah, if somebody wanted to steal a car doing this and was familiar enough with the immobilizer to do this bypass they would already know a much easier way to disable the immobiliser on most installs. This tutorial is truly for educational purposes for people like me who are working on cars with faulty systems.
Did this on my Toyota Conquest, it worked.. saved me a whole lot of trouble. Thank you
What number of those jumping cables should I buy for conquest
I’m an reputable autowatch installer. Thanks for giving car thieves heads up. That’s why we companies get a reputation for being behind car thefts. Then wonder why your business is running down.
Thank you for your concern designe munsamy, if you really had any sort of clue what you were talking about you would KNOW that this is clearly not going to show how to steal the car… as it is quite clearly stated in the video…..
If indeed you are a “reputable autowatch installer” then I have to ask… why are you watching the video to bypass?..
You would KNOW that this is just bypassing the immobiliser and you still need the key to turn the ignition on and to crank the starter/run the engine.
This is purely to get you out of the s**t if you are the owner of the vehicle and you have the key.
So like I said thanks for your completely irrelevant comment… and thanks for the view.. they all help.
Thank you so much. Saved me a load of headache chasing looms and stuff to disable the immobiliser and/or costly work from a professional.
My remote(s) had stopped functioning and the autowatch 674 ri would not go into key pairing mode despite my having the master code and being able to manually override the immobiliser doing the key turning dance. It was like the key pairing function just would not trigger the way it should have according to the manufacturer manual.
It would be interesting to see what sort of current is getting pulled given the double-up on wires on the plug. A related thought is that tapping into these two pairs of terminals on the connector could easily be converted into other, separate physical, kill switches for the fuel pump and starter circuits, if as I assume the current draw is low you wouldn't even need to add extra relays. Probably some opportunity to tap into the rest of the loom to re-add remote central locking with a cheap module.
you might have just gotten me out of a situation mate thank you ill let you know ...... fingers crossed
What must i say when i get to the spares if i want to by those jumping cables for conquest sir ?
Having added the jumper cables can I now disconnect the other plug into the alarm unit and then remove the alarm unit entirely? Thanks for your help!
Great video. I need to do this on my laserline system, is there a good chance it will be roughly the same?
This did work on the 446rli. Thanks mate
Great news, to be honest most of the auto watch series are basically the same.
Mine has got 10 wires,so I made 3 jumpers ,fuel pump primes but the engine doesn't turn/crank at all...446 RLI AUTOWATCH, please help me.
How did you get it to work?
@@knowledgeisblissSA so there's one pig tail that's just black wires, now two of those are for your fuel pump and two are for ignition. Some messing around and you'll find out which is which
Just tried this nothing… getting fuel starter working with a bridge no spark? Haven’t checked yet any pin out links?
This actually worked! Cheers man super easy!
No problem!
Whats the name of the 2 small linking cables?
@@Josphatkaragu they are just bits of wire with male spade connectors crimped on the end, that’s it.
What if u get a different plug where the 4 is next to each other
It should essentially be the same, linking the cables together.
@@Chris_CDBno its not😢😢😢😢 how can I reach out to you for help?
What car is this ? 1995 ?
I can’t remember what the year was, I think it was a T plate, so bit later than 95, although it was an import from memory!
I want to bypass my autowatch 446rli pfk 446-100
Chrysler Pacifica 3.5
What about the class Pacifica 2004 3.5 L engine engine
Whats the cause of all this
What’s the cause of what?. In this case it was the fob that stopped working.
@@Chris_CDBsame thing for me , worn out micro-switch on the circuit board of the fob ,
On the older fob’s , as I had , I removed the switch cover from the circuit board and used a thin bit of U shape wire , I kept on my key ring until I could replace the fob .
Under the micro switch on the circuit board you can see the two small dots of solder . You only need to touch the end’s of the U shaped wire on each side of the solder to bridge the gap , if it works you will hear the usual door or solenoid clicking sound .
I did this for 12 months or more until I could afford to pay someone to replace and reprogram a new fob 👣🦘 good luck .
Van is only swinging not starting
Swinging?
Yes but no spark
You mean cranking over?
Yes but I tested for spark something is cutting the spark
Did you come right?@keeransingh2777
delete this
Because of what reason may I ask…
Nah, if somebody wanted to steal a car doing this and was familiar enough with the immobilizer to do this bypass they would already know a much easier way to disable the immobiliser on most installs.
This tutorial is truly for educational purposes for people like me who are working on cars with faulty systems.
I want to bypass my autowatch 446rli pfk 446-100