Thanks Juha. You are doing a great service for the community. Theres a lot of info out there on the webbers, but my confidence in your info, is the go to, top of my list.🤙🏻
@5:10 you talk about bending before cutting the string with round core, but when you replaced the A string with the GHS boomer after the first string unraveled, you didn't do that. I think all GHS Boomers are round core.
Thank you for the correction! Wow - I've never realized Boomers are in fact round core, as you said. Or, as I found out, any wound Boomers between 024 and 060 are. It is interesting how resilient to breakage the Boomers are even when not bending before cutting - for example DR strings would be in my experience quite much more problematic. Thanks again - I stand corrected.
@@ruokangas I've read that GHS "swage's" their core wire before wrapping, so it might be some sort of hybrid between the two. I've been going on a deep dive of strings trying to figure out what I really prefer after a couple of decades of not changing. I fear change :-)
Followed your instructions as close as possible! It was a little tough to make that second knot on the high E string, so I had to sacrifice a few turns, but I guess that's okay. I want to ask you how one can remove the twist in the string when using locking tuners.
Thanks! With locking tuners you can't really remove the twist other than in certain types of bridge designs, and unless you leave a bit of slack to the string. But on the other hand, when the string is not wound around the post many rounds, it is less likely that there will develop a twist to the string, either.
@@ruokangas Thank you! The biggest takeaway from your video was how much slack to leave for each string. Creating enough downward angle was something I didn't think about before, because all my other guitars have angled headstocks.
Excellent video. Yes, it’s important to be calm when you are changing the strings, and any other work, on a Telecaster.
Great channel, I like the calm methodical vibe
Very good detail. I didn’t even consider the wrapping and angle from nut to tuner post
Thanks Juha, a very helpful session. Best wishes, Kyran
Glad I could be of help! :)
Thanks a lot, Juha! I've been playing Teles for 25 years and I didn't know everything you mentioned.
One can always learn something new - it's the same for us all! :)
Thanks Juha. You are doing a great service for the community. Theres a lot of info out there on the webbers, but my confidence in your info, is the go to, top of my list.🤙🏻
🙏
I'm pretty sure that I've been overstretching my strings. Thanks!!
👍🏼
@5:10 you talk about bending before cutting the string with round core, but when you replaced the A string with the GHS boomer after the first string unraveled, you didn't do that. I think all GHS Boomers are round core.
Thank you for the correction! Wow - I've never realized Boomers are in fact round core, as you said. Or, as I found out, any wound Boomers between 024 and 060 are. It is interesting how resilient to breakage the Boomers are even when not bending before cutting - for example DR strings would be in my experience quite much more problematic. Thanks again - I stand corrected.
@@ruokangas I've read that GHS "swage's" their core wire before wrapping, so it might be some sort of hybrid between the two. I've been going on a deep dive of strings trying to figure out what I really prefer after a couple of decades of not changing. I fear change :-)
@@LaMarrBrewster Yeah the GHS isn't certainly the typical roundcore string that unravels surprisingly easily!
Such a helpful video thank you for the information! BTW are you ever planning on making a maintenance episode for jazzmasters?
Thank you! I hope one I'll have a chance to do an episode on jazzmasters, but no near future plans for it, sorry.
Followed your instructions as close as possible! It was a little tough to make that second knot on the high E string, so I had to sacrifice a few turns, but I guess that's okay.
I want to ask you how one can remove the twist in the string when using locking tuners.
Thanks! With locking tuners you can't really remove the twist other than in certain types of bridge designs, and unless you leave a bit of slack to the string. But on the other hand, when the string is not wound around the post many rounds, it is less likely that there will develop a twist to the string, either.
@@ruokangas Thank you! The biggest takeaway from your video was how much slack to leave for each string. Creating enough downward angle was something I didn't think about before, because all my other guitars have angled headstocks.
@@getvicky13 Happy to hear I could be of help! :)
So no scotch-bright pads on the logo👍🏽. Eeww those crusty saddles !!
:D