This DIY ROCKS! I've made lots of diy mics out of thingies but I'm gonna try this one. TIP i often use the drivers from headphones as they are a fairly common dumpster dive treasure They are high spl, lo output but can be relatively clean and work OK for bass and kick as the third mic.
This week I debated buying an SM57 for a little vintage sound. You have officially inspired a man in the UK to go out to the garage and build the (maybe) first exhaust-pipe-offcut microphone (soup can variant mk2.) It'll be a little narrower and a little shallower, I can weld/braze the bottom on and holes/fixings/attachments to taste! This could be MEGA! Thank you for the video there sir!
Thanks for that comment. That's exactly why I post these kinds of videos. I hope to inspire someone else to build something. I'm so glad the video was helpful. Thanks again.
@@musicalmiscellany Okay so it got finished, tested in the DAW and thought I'd report back. Made from 1-1.5mm mild steel exhaust offcut, 12cm long, 5cm diameter. Welded a disc to the bottom to close it up, 1/4" jack in bottom, welded M6 fitting to the side to mount it, stuffed with sponge, pickup element isolated on a thin tin mount pop-riveted about 1cm shy of the top, section of an old sock zip-tied to a captive ring on the end as pop shield. The sock was grey, I don't know how much of a factor that is. All edges at least finished and flat. Needs a bit of gain but it's remarkably quiet for it. The quality of the sound though ("quality" meaning "usable with vintage essence") is VERY good! It's vintage and lo-fi but the exhaust pipe being a bit more substantial obviously knocks out the resonance you'd have left from a soup can, even stuffed with sponge. I think the stars aligned in use as a vocal character mic, not sure it'd actually be as versatile as the soup can in fact! It is fascinatingly sweet-sounding; there's... just... NO harshness in the upper mids and it has an inclination to almost tame itself whilst drawing everything back to a very very sweet sound. This really did amaze me tbh. I wouldn't necessarily say it's overly warm but it's got NO harshness to it AT ALL. There may be something in, as I mentioned, the thickness of that metal and the depth of the element from the top being about 1cm gives it the capacity to resonate somewhat. Either way happy accident! It'll just kiss the VERGE of breakup if you scream yourself silly into it. There's an amount of 50-90z rumble going on, hi-passing that out slightly brings out the upper mid character so I think that'll just be a quirk of it. Might also have just been because I had it propped on the desk for a test. Thanks again for your video! I think the soup can would actually be a better all-rounder and deliver more "character mic" for a studio. However a slightly more vocal-focussed alternative does exist in the exhaust offcut mic! Greetings again from the UK there. :)
@@dismalfist I appreciate the follow up post. I always love it when people take one of my videos and run with it and I appreciate it even more when they report back. Thank you so much.
You should be a science teacher...but wait, you ARE a science teacher via your video. I am experimenting with the best way to record "human humming" and I found your video to be so practical, informative and (to say the least) entertaining. THANKS so much!!
I'm not sure what you're asking exactly but the jack shouldn't make a difference. You could do the exact same thing with 1/8", RCA, XLR, etc. As long as the piezo leads are properly soldered to the + and - it should work.
Thanks for watching. I haven't tried it... but I imagine an Altoids tin would work (provided you have enough depth to mount the jack on the side of course). It would be the same general idea. Hot glue the piezo to the lid, mount jack on the side, put some sort of deadening material in the tin and bam... it should work.
Hey man, just stumbled on your channel. Great stuff! So I gave this a shot and it works pretty great but mine is having issues with some pretty unfortunate feedback. Any tips on curbing that or is just because I bought a poor quality piezo?
I'm not 100% clear on the setup, but chances are you would need the correct cables/adapters to convert 1/4" to 1/8". If you're building the mic yourself, you could just use a 1/8" jack in the mic (instead of the 1/4" jack)... or you could find a cable/adapter that converts 1/4" mono to 1/8" mono. Another thing to keep in mind is that most mobile devices are 1/8" stereo and this microphone is going to be mono. There are adapters designed to convert a mono signal to stereo which is what you're probably going to want unless you're using some sort of mobile audio interface that's designed for mono connections. Again, I'd have to know more about the setup to really understand what you need.
@@musicalmiscellany how can I explain you argggh. Ok, i have a piezo disk and it has three terminals and I have a 1/4 female output and 1/4 Jack. That's all I have and I want to make a pickup so that I can record with mobile
@@kryptongaming84 This sounds like something that's going to be difficult to solve via UA-cam comments. I think you'll get a quicker answer on a homemade instruments forum. A couple you might want to check out are cigarboxnation.com and handmademusic.ning.com. I'd say ask your question there and post a couple photos... you'll probably have an answer in no time.
I'm a little confused by your comment. The video goes over how to make the microphone and there's bookmarks in the timeline if you want to go directly to each section.
Friend: Your mic sounds like it is in a tin can
You: ...
This DIY ROCKS! I've made lots of diy mics out of thingies but I'm gonna try this one. TIP i often use the drivers from headphones as they are a fairly common dumpster dive treasure They are high spl, lo output but can be relatively clean and work OK for bass and kick as the third mic.
Thanks for checking out the video. I really appreciate the comment. That's a great idea to upcycle headphones into mics. I dig it.
This week I debated buying an SM57 for a little vintage sound. You have officially inspired a man in the UK to go out to the garage and build the (maybe) first exhaust-pipe-offcut microphone (soup can variant mk2.) It'll be a little narrower and a little shallower, I can weld/braze the bottom on and holes/fixings/attachments to taste! This could be MEGA!
Thank you for the video there sir!
Thanks for that comment. That's exactly why I post these kinds of videos. I hope to inspire someone else to build something. I'm so glad the video was helpful. Thanks again.
@@musicalmiscellany Okay so it got finished, tested in the DAW and thought I'd report back. Made from 1-1.5mm mild steel exhaust offcut, 12cm long, 5cm diameter. Welded a disc to the bottom to close it up, 1/4" jack in bottom, welded M6 fitting to the side to mount it, stuffed with sponge, pickup element isolated on a thin tin mount pop-riveted about 1cm shy of the top, section of an old sock zip-tied to a captive ring on the end as pop shield. The sock was grey, I don't know how much of a factor that is. All edges at least finished and flat.
Needs a bit of gain but it's remarkably quiet for it. The quality of the sound though ("quality" meaning "usable with vintage essence") is VERY good! It's vintage and lo-fi but the exhaust pipe being a bit more substantial obviously knocks out the resonance you'd have left from a soup can, even stuffed with sponge. I think the stars aligned in use as a vocal character mic, not sure it'd actually be as versatile as the soup can in fact! It is fascinatingly sweet-sounding; there's... just... NO harshness in the upper mids and it has an inclination to almost tame itself whilst drawing everything back to a very very sweet sound. This really did amaze me tbh. I wouldn't necessarily say it's overly warm but it's got NO harshness to it AT ALL. There may be something in, as I mentioned, the thickness of that metal and the depth of the element from the top being about 1cm gives it the capacity to resonate somewhat. Either way happy accident!
It'll just kiss the VERGE of breakup if you scream yourself silly into it. There's an amount of 50-90z rumble going on, hi-passing that out slightly brings out the upper mid character so I think that'll just be a quirk of it. Might also have just been because I had it propped on the desk for a test.
Thanks again for your video! I think the soup can would actually be a better all-rounder and deliver more "character mic" for a studio. However a slightly more vocal-focussed alternative does exist in the exhaust offcut mic! Greetings again from the UK there. :)
@@dismalfist I appreciate the follow up post. I always love it when people take one of my videos and run with it and I appreciate it even more when they report back. Thank you so much.
Or you could scream man of constant sorrows - soggy bottom boys, in it
Or sing Surfing Bird
The Synth part is nightmare fuel and I love it!
Thanks for checking to the video. It is rather creepy. LOL.
Thanks, I'm going to try your method. I like the modular synth part in your video, excellent sounds.
Semper Fi. Brother. Great video.
Thanks for checking out the video and (based on that response) thank you for your service.
This is such a great video, thanks for breaking this down!
Thanks for watching. It's so great to hear when one of my videos helps someone else.
Love this project
Thanks for checking out the video.
8:03 someone make a song out of that synth part
Man, this is cool.
Thanks Katz.
You should be a science teacher...but wait, you ARE a science teacher via your video. I am experimenting with the best way to record "human humming" and I found your video to be so practical, informative and (to say the least) entertaining. THANKS so much!!
Ha ha. Thanks so much. I always make these vids hoping they hope somebody learn something so... I guess that is a teacher of sorts.
Do I need a big plug (dont know the actual name) cause I'm using an adapter for a normal aux cord and it doesn't work?
I'm not sure what you're asking exactly but the jack shouldn't make a difference. You could do the exact same thing with 1/8", RCA, XLR, etc. As long as the piezo leads are properly soldered to the + and - it should work.
In the sound clip I was getting first gen star trek vibes
Thanks for checking out the video
This is such a good video dude thank you!
You're welcome Keith. Thanks for watching.
Pretty cool
Thanks. It is surprisingly useful. I really do like it.
nice job
thank you for doing this
Thanks for watching. Hopefully it's helpful.
Would an Altoids tin work for this?
Thanks for watching. I haven't tried it... but I imagine an Altoids tin would work (provided you have enough depth to mount the jack on the side of course). It would be the same general idea. Hot glue the piezo to the lid, mount jack on the side, put some sort of deadening material in the tin and bam... it should work.
Are there any replacements for the 20mm piezo? I somehow don’t own one.
Pretty much any size piezo will work. 20mm, 27mm, 35mm, etc.
@@musicalmiscellany thanks. Just realized this was abt 2 years ago, sorry to bother ya lol.
@@Cami-n4x No worries. These videos are here so people can learn and ask questions after the fact.
Very cool!
Thanks Steve. I believe this one is my most popular video to date. People really seem to like the idea.
The vocal should be the main in the mix, is brilliant
Thanks for watching.
Search bar : how to make tin can effect in fl studio?
Result : -
Poorness Studios : problem solved!
Ha ha. I'm glad to see the algorithm is working for a change. Thanks for checking out the video.
Hey man, just stumbled on your channel. Great stuff! So I gave this a shot and it works pretty great but mine is having issues with some pretty unfortunate feedback. Any tips on curbing that or is just because I bought a poor quality piezo?
I doubt it has to do with the piezo. It's probably reverberations in the metal. What did you use for dampening material inside the can?
I only have 3.5mm Jack cable and I want to connect it mobile. How to do it???
I'm not 100% clear on the setup, but chances are you would need the correct cables/adapters to convert 1/4" to 1/8". If you're building the mic yourself, you could just use a 1/8" jack in the mic (instead of the 1/4" jack)... or you could find a cable/adapter that converts 1/4" mono to 1/8" mono.
Another thing to keep in mind is that most mobile devices are 1/8" stereo and this microphone is going to be mono. There are adapters designed to convert a mono signal to stereo which is what you're probably going to want unless you're using some sort of mobile audio interface that's designed for mono connections.
Again, I'd have to know more about the setup to really understand what you need.
@@musicalmiscellany how can I explain you argggh. Ok, i have a piezo disk and it has three terminals and I have a 1/4 female output and 1/4 Jack. That's all I have and I want to make a pickup so that I can record with mobile
@@kryptongaming84 This sounds like something that's going to be difficult to solve via UA-cam comments. I think you'll get a quicker answer on a homemade instruments forum. A couple you might want to check out are cigarboxnation.com and handmademusic.ning.com. I'd say ask your question there and post a couple photos... you'll probably have an answer in no time.
Rephase the dilithium crystals with the glam rods then download the framus upgrade and install the 8 bit operating system. Works like a champ.
Thanks for showing us how to make it... NOT!!!!
I'm a little confused by your comment. The video goes over how to make the microphone and there's bookmarks in the timeline if you want to go directly to each section.