Yes, I got unsubscribed by the bean counters. Fixed! I love the way you drew the diagram with the actual components on the paper. Very effective way to teach.
Similar setup for our composting head fan. Simple 25watt panel with built in controller and a 10ah battery. Keeps our fan running 24/7. Fan pulls ~.3 amps.
I keep wondering why cruisers are always bailing the dingy. This is fairly common on inland lakes where boats are kept at docks until the weekend. Flexable panel on the tube, waterproof box for the electronics and battery, a lot less bailing I would think.
Little tip from a fellow engineer. Instead of a simple diode use a Shottky diode. Normal Diodes will eat 0.7V in forward direction , Shottky diodes eat up only 0.2V. This helps to be more effective during charging.
Appreciate all your how-to videos, and for this one the timing was perfect as I just dumped about 10 gallons of slimy green water out of my dink. My boats are 85 miles from me and I'm still working so sometimes it's 2-3 weeks between visits. Already had this ID'd as a project, but now I have some specifics to help me get it done. Thanks much! -Jim w/ Cal-33 in NJ.
I copied this guy's idea for a fish finder and am really happy with it. (Link below) I have an 8' Porta Bote that I do a lot of fishing from. Now thanks to E&C, I'll have solar charging, lights and a bilge pump too! Thanks, Clark! ua-cam.com/video/5iAwFKFC8n0/v-deo.htmlsi=oNwBZyqUbYP9jet6
Hi Clark, I won't put links, but there are water resistant, shockproof, 900000mAh Portable Power Bank batteries (used for charging devices when out & about) about the size of a cell phone, "with built-in solar panel", for ~$20 (aud, so prob half that usd) from ebay, prob amazon. Put a usb plug on that 12v pump. I mount battery on transom under motor with velcro (so not direct sun, heat all day), take it with when ashore to prevent theft, boost devices if needed. Likewise the pump is hidden under a plastic container with one side cut out, looks like rubbish. I'm considering an inflatable catamaran, open front = easy in from dive, no more bath tub.
Rather than a 12v pump, get yourself a 5v usb pump for circulating water in a pet bowl. It's got a built-in float switch and is ready to go. That and the solar power bank equals two parts, plug-n-play!
@@warnerwinborne That sounds great, but all sorts of terms in google can't find one with float. Got a name or part #? I've got a few of the 5v pumps, use them to circulate/aerate live tanks & micro trays.
Neat little project Clark. This would go well with a electric trolling motor I have on my 14 ft fishing boat. Thanks for the info and keep the good stuff coming.
Sure. Probably a bigger panel. That buck converter is probably only good for maybe 2 amps. And maybe a heat sink would be a good improvement . But you get the idea, lots of bigger buck converters out there.
One thing that not many people know. Adjusting the buck converter with your multimeter on the kathode of the diode is not correct when the diode is not connected to a load or battery. There must be enough current flow to "open" the diode and the Vf is also current depended. Often a DMM with a Ri of 10M causes just enough current flow to bring the diode in conduction but at 1A the Vf will be different. I experimented with this and the differences per meter Ri were huge. A > 1G meter did not cause a current high enough and measured the static electric field and that value was extremely way-off) Best connect a resistor instead of the battery that is big enough to causes the wanted current at 13,5V and then adjust the buck converter. Remove the resistor and connect the battery. I would also place a fuse. I think this idea is for the rest fine and will work. I would not doe it to connect a big solarpanel to a big batterij. Better use a real charger for that
Hi, Clark--Quick question for your electronic creativity. We'd like an alert if our generator goes out while underway. Easiest is to simply power a light off a regular 110 outlet and monitor if it goes OUT. However, is it possible to do the reverse: have a light come ON (or sound a buzzer) if power goes OFF? Thinking you'd have to power the light by a battery (or condenser ideally?) and maybe involve a relay that trips ON if power goes OFF. Whatcha think? Might make a fun episode.
If it was me I'd ignore the generator and go to the real question. "Are my batteries being charged or are they low?" There are simple boards on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/354695577895?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7t8wlvkpqf-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3Zp5jgUhScS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY That will flip a relay when the voltage drops. Maybe a second relay to flip the signal if you don't want to learn a better way. Now you have something that detects generator or battery charger failures. And once you turn off the generator it can easily be set to tell you when the batteries go low.
i put three 15 amp hour 12 volt lipo4 , all three batteries weigh less then the one led acid , they are warranted for 10 years, this is how i power my C3 cooler ..lol with a 30 watt solar panel.. solar panel battery and pump all the rest would be knocked out, the batteries have built in bms system.. and the solar panel has also a built in solar controller..
Well done sir, I do have a question that I cannot seem to find an easy answer for. I have a Suzuki 9.9 electric start. Does this return charge to the battery while running like a normal motor?
I don't own one but I bet it does. Just put a volt meter on the battery and notice the voltage. Then start the motor and maybe rev it up. If you see a higher voltage, it's charging! Much like how I tested the charging in this video.
What do you guys do for DC fans... the $100+ for a fan is expensive compared to the $10 fans available on ebay, however they make too much noise due to a higher rpm than is actually needed
We put our favorite fans in our Amazon store. Link in the description of this video. They do cost just over 100 but worth it. I've liked this life for over 20 years. Don't scrimp on fans in the tropics!!
LiFePO4 is really fragile. This type of charger strategy would kill it fast. And putting a BankManager system in a dinghy would be too expensive and basically overkill. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
The board is labeled plus and minus. Yes you must solder to the board. There will be less than an amp from the panel so that wire can be really small. 16ga would be more than enough.
We have the same outboard as you (and same battery and fuel filter and bilge pump!). I don't understand the need for the solar panel. The outboard alternator charges the battery, and the battery runs the bilge pump for several months on a single charge (and it rains a lot here). So as long as the outboard is used occasionally, there is no need for solar charging. I understand this video is for those who may not have an outboard that can charge, but was wondering why you are using this?
No. Charging Lifepo4 to a constant voltage and holding it there is the most certain way to destroy them. They are fragile devices, that's why I made the BankManager. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
@@Clarks-Adventure Yes, I know your bankMangager and it suit bigger systems then this dinky so is that true? if you use the battery's own "float" example 13 volts? ( or whatever the "float" it is) the battery stops receiving and basically like the Victron mppt that keeps "floating" the rest of the day when the battery has been full since morning ?
Yes. Li is suspectable to damage at any voltage over 13.48v once fully charged. And it charges very slowly in the voltage range from 13.2 to 13.48. So if you wanted to charge painfully slowly you could do this but why not just use lead. Cheap and in my case I lost the battery to corrosion before it died from use. So there is little advantage to the li as I see it in this application.
@@Clarks-Adventure you are absolutely right that just for dinghy lead is very economical my thought is other applications where the weight is also a factor where this simple system fits well and then it can "charge" for several weeks. thanks for taking the time to reply to all of us ;)
An economical, elegant solution to a common problem - that's engineering for ya! Well done, Clark.
Yes, I got unsubscribed by the bean counters. Fixed!
I love the way you drew the diagram with the actual components on the paper. Very effective way to teach.
Welcome back.
Similar setup for our composting head fan. Simple 25watt panel with built in controller and a 10ah battery. Keeps our fan running 24/7. Fan pulls ~.3 amps.
Everyone should be watching your videos, thank you Clark
Thanks for saying that.
Please spread links around!
KISS works great for me ( certified stupid ) non tech explanations/ demonstrations are a rare and valued treat . Thank you Clark .
I use a sump pump i throw in the dingy to empty it. Also useful for throwing overboard for water to wash the deck
I like this, could use it as a secondary on my 26 ft. sailboat.
I keep wondering why cruisers are always bailing the dingy. This is fairly common on inland lakes where boats are kept at docks until the weekend. Flexable panel on the tube, waterproof box for the electronics and battery, a lot less bailing I would think.
That's pretty slick Clark. Thanks.
Little tip from a fellow engineer.
Instead of a simple diode use a Shottky diode.
Normal Diodes will eat 0.7V in forward direction , Shottky diodes eat up only 0.2V.
This helps to be more effective during charging.
Yep. I basically only stock shottkys I should have mentioned this.
Yet another helpful segment. Any chance you could share what you use for navigation? I am presuming you have found an economical solution. Cheers.
Garmin now.
But there was a time I be a pirate
Clever hack with the buck convertor!
Thanks
Appreciate all your how-to videos, and for this one the timing was perfect as I just dumped about 10 gallons of slimy green water out of my dink. My boats are 85 miles from me and I'm still working so sometimes it's 2-3 weeks between visits. Already had this ID'd as a project, but now I have some specifics to help me get it done. Thanks much! -Jim w/ Cal-33 in NJ.
Very interesting and practical. Thanks! We are looking at doing something similar with a depth sounder/fish finder for our dinghy
It's nice having a way to know depth in the dinghy for scouting
I copied this guy's idea for a fish finder and am really happy with it. (Link below) I have an 8' Porta Bote that I do a lot of fishing from. Now thanks to E&C, I'll have solar charging, lights and a bilge pump too! Thanks, Clark! ua-cam.com/video/5iAwFKFC8n0/v-deo.htmlsi=oNwBZyqUbYP9jet6
Our tenders were all swamped from heavy rain yesterday, everyone bailing with my poor battery box 😂😂
Perfect tutorial, still surprised ready rigs are not available in marine realm.
Ready rigs?
Hi Clark, I won't put links, but there are water resistant, shockproof, 900000mAh Portable Power Bank batteries (used for charging devices when out & about) about the size of a cell phone, "with built-in solar panel", for ~$20 (aud, so prob half that usd) from ebay, prob amazon. Put a usb plug on that 12v pump.
I mount battery on transom under motor with velcro (so not direct sun, heat all day), take it with when ashore to prevent theft, boost devices if needed. Likewise the pump is hidden under a plastic container with one side cut out, looks like rubbish.
I'm considering an inflatable catamaran, open front = easy in from dive, no more bath tub.
Rather than a 12v pump, get yourself a 5v usb pump for circulating water in a pet bowl. It's got a built-in float switch and is ready to go. That and the solar power bank equals two parts, plug-n-play!
@@warnerwinborne That sounds great, but all sorts of terms in google can't find one with float. Got a name or part #?
I've got a few of the 5v pumps, use them to circulate/aerate live tanks & micro trays.
GREAT Idea!!! Thanks for the video!
You're very welcome
You are the best! Thank you for another great video.
You are very welcome, Thero
Great idea ,thanks 👏
Neat little project Clark. This would go well with a electric trolling motor I have on my 14 ft fishing boat. Thanks for the info and keep the good stuff coming.
Sure. Probably a bigger panel. That buck converter is probably only good for maybe 2 amps. And maybe a heat sink would be a good improvement .
But you get the idea, lots of bigger buck converters out there.
One thing that not many people know. Adjusting the buck converter with your multimeter on the kathode of the diode is not correct when the diode is not connected to a load or battery. There must be enough current flow to "open" the diode and the Vf is also current depended. Often a DMM with a Ri of 10M causes just enough current flow to bring the diode in conduction but at 1A the Vf will be different. I experimented with this and the differences per meter Ri were huge. A > 1G meter did not cause a current high enough and measured the static electric field and that value was extremely way-off) Best connect a resistor instead of the battery that is big enough to causes the wanted current at 13,5V and then adjust the buck converter. Remove the resistor and connect the battery. I would also place a fuse. I think this idea is for the rest fine and will work. I would not doe it to connect a big solarpanel to a big batterij. Better use a real charger for that
Hi, Clark--Quick question for your electronic creativity. We'd like an alert if our generator goes out while underway. Easiest is to simply power a light off a regular 110 outlet and monitor if it goes OUT. However, is it possible to do the reverse: have a light come ON (or sound a buzzer) if power goes OFF? Thinking you'd have to power the light by a battery (or condenser ideally?) and maybe involve a relay that trips ON if power goes OFF. Whatcha think? Might make a fun episode.
If it was me I'd ignore the generator and go to the real question. "Are my batteries being charged or are they low?"
There are simple boards on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/354695577895?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7t8wlvkpqf-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3Zp5jgUhScS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That will flip a relay when the voltage drops.
Maybe a second relay to flip the signal if you don't want to learn a better way.
Now you have something that detects generator or battery charger failures.
And once you turn off the generator it can easily be set to tell you when the batteries go low.
Great job. Good info. Thanks. Keep them coming.
You're very welcome
Nice and simple enough even for us less electronically inclined, thanks. What size is that AGM?
I'm sorry it wasn't in the Amazon store - will be soon.
It's a 5ah. Seems plenty.
You are the best, thank you!
This is FANTASTIC.
Thanks
Awesome, thanks Clark
You're welcome Brad
i put three 15 amp hour 12 volt lipo4 , all three batteries weigh less then the one led acid , they are warranted for 10 years, this is how i power my C3 cooler ..lol with a 30 watt solar panel.. solar panel battery and pump all the rest would be knocked out, the batteries have built in bms system.. and the solar panel has also a built in solar controller..
Well done sir, I do have a question that I cannot seem to find an easy answer for. I have a Suzuki 9.9 electric start. Does this return charge to the battery while running like a normal motor?
I don't own one but I bet it does.
Just put a volt meter on the battery and notice the voltage.
Then start the motor and maybe rev it up. If you see a higher voltage, it's charging!
Much like how I tested the charging in this video.
Love this. Nice hat
Thanks
Like the idea! Pump auto switch to the positive side of the battery correct?
Yep. But it would work just as well on the negative side.
What do you guys do for DC fans... the $100+ for a fan is expensive compared to the $10 fans available on ebay, however they make too much noise due to a higher rpm than is actually needed
We put our favorite fans in our Amazon store. Link in the description of this video.
They do cost just over 100 but worth it. I've liked this life for over 20 years. Don't scrimp on fans in the tropics!!
A great system. Any reason you chose AGM over Lithium. Price / other components?
LiFePO4 is really fragile. This type of charger strategy would kill it fast.
And putting a BankManager system in a dinghy would be too expensive and basically overkill.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
Is the wire you have attached soldered? Which side is + , and lastly what size wire are you using?
The board is labeled plus and minus. Yes you must solder to the board.
There will be less than an amp from the panel so that wire can be really small. 16ga would be more than enough.
We have the same outboard as you (and same battery and fuel filter and bilge pump!). I don't understand the need for the solar panel. The outboard alternator charges the battery, and the battery runs the bilge pump for several months on a single charge (and it rains a lot here). So as long as the outboard is used occasionally, there is no need for solar charging. I understand this video is for those who may not have an outboard that can charge, but was wondering why you are using this?
I don't have the electric start version of the engine
Just curious, why not put in a ten watt zener diode? 1N2978B
Well to start with that's a much more expensive part.
And I carry buck converters for various reasons.
Nice. What AGM battery are you using?
Go to our Amazon store linked to the description of this video.
It's there
Brilllllliant
Thanks Patrick
So is that "B" for bilge pump?
Could be. They are important but I think she is going a different way.
YT has not only been dumping subscriptions, they have also been dumping channels. Some day it might be you Clark.
I hope not
does this solution also work with a small lithium battery? I think so anyway😀
No. Charging Lifepo4 to a constant voltage and holding it there is the most certain way to destroy them.
They are fragile devices, that's why I made the BankManager.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
@@Clarks-Adventure Yes, I know your bankMangager and it suit bigger systems then this dinky so is that true? if you use the battery's own "float" example 13 volts? ( or whatever the "float" it is) the battery stops receiving and basically like the Victron mppt that keeps "floating" the rest of the day when the battery has been full since morning ?
Yes.
Li is suspectable to damage at any voltage over 13.48v once fully charged. And it charges very slowly in the voltage range from 13.2 to 13.48.
So if you wanted to charge painfully slowly you could do this but why not just use lead. Cheap and in my case I lost the battery to corrosion before it died from use. So there is little advantage to the li as I see it in this application.
@@Clarks-Adventure you are absolutely right that just for dinghy lead is very economical my thought is other applications where the weight is also a factor where this simple system fits well and then it can "charge" for several weeks. thanks for taking the time to reply to all of us ;)
I'm not a sailor but wouldn't a cover be handier?
No, taking it off and on all the time would be too difficult. And then you have to store it.
We use the dinghy every day.