BTW: That "mother's mag wheel cleaner". I use that stuff on everything now. It really brings out quite a shine. Kudos ! My "eat anything" mod is still doing just that - Eating any kind of 22LR ammo with the obvious and judicious exception of high velocity ammo.
oustanding! glad it's working. I, too, tend to find things to use that mag wheel polish on. It's a huge tub compared to how you're actually using for this mod. Thank you so much for reporting back!
For what it is worth... This mod worked very well for me . Found a an Advantage Arms 22 LR conversion kit for a Gen 3 Glock 17. I did exactly what the video says in terms of parts polishing. In addition I noticed the feed ramp on the barrel had a burr on it near the bottom. Removed it and polished the feed ramp. First try at the range it worked and worked wonderfully. I started with CGI 40 Grain Round nose exactly what Advantage Arms suggested. No problems. Much to my surprise it also shot Federal Copper Plated Hollow points. No problems. I can't say for other types of ammo as those are the only two 22 LR loads I had. Thanks for the advice in the video. The "Eat Anything" mod worked for me.
@@CDCLLC FYI: The latest range trip: A couple of hiccups but I think that is more on the ammo than the conversion kit or the "eat anything" mod. Even a very reliable and "eat anything" gun like a Tippman Arms M-4 22 LR has it's fair share of issues more on ammo quality than anything else. The thing is keep these conversion kits clean enough to eat from and ammo issues aside they should work quite well.
I have not shot my conversion kit yet. Testing the firing pin on a snap cap and comparing its strike to my P322s strike, the P322 strikes deeper and does not span the whole rim like the advantage arms. The P322 may just hit harder, or the AA kit may displace the strike across the whole rim and lose some ability to ignite the primer. I have not compared the two firing pins to see if there is any difference in the striking surface. The P322 had been pretty reliable. I had a few duds that fired after loading them again.
This definitely works, did this to a brand new slide, put a few hundred rounds through it and you could tell the difference. Also i realized this kit likes brass tip more than lead tip, i had a lot more malfunctions with lead tip ammo
The only problems I had was I was trying to run 20+ year old Winchester ammo, and the extractor would skip over the lip of casing and not extract it. Solution was new ammo (CCI), and filing the step (a flat point) out of the extractor, and bringing it to a point (not sharp).Runs like a champ now. If I polished it out, I would just end up taking material out where it's already taken out just from using it.
Indeed. You definitely don't want to file and polish the extractor. Most people are a bit more comfortable with "polishing" vs filing. that little sliding piece and the other polishing points are going to benefit from the slicker surface.
I'm thinking about getting one of these. Because I love building glockstyle guns and I have a Fleet of daggers already. Phil, 1 or 2 of the P80 style well, 2 of them won in the 19 and 1 of the 17. But hands down out of all of the models. It has to go-between the dagger for the bank for the book. The comfort and the available options durability end cost. Put the P80 set up. It's also nice but not fun to conceal carry tears my stomach up LO. L But I was weary when I got my first PSA dagger because it was not a Glock. My first blocks were the 22 and the 23 police trade ends 300 apiece. I went with them because they are actually 4 guns and one you have the 22 l, R, the 9 millimeter, the 40 that it shoots add the 357 option. It's a no-brainer. There are the perfect size for may. I can't do the super big glocks and the little chunky blocky ones. Blood this advantage arms has an amazing deals
THANK YOU! I've been looking for days on how to properly re-install that carrier dohickie (please excuse me but I INSIST on using professional terminology here) thingy. The instructions AA served up were just a bit inadequate. That said, please add some details on lube and polishing compound you are using. While I'm sure they are easily found, if you have a good source, I'd be happy to know about it.
Nobody on UA-cam has shown the extractor spring, I need to know if the early models are the same size as the newer late models, yes there is different generations, early models don't have a roll pin through the top
Mine was manufactured in 2012 so I take it it’s not old enough? It looks to me like it has a roll pin in it, I wanted to remove it to polish the ejector, but I don’t have a replacement pin yet. Looks like I might have to order a replacement set
I'm having a problem with the spent casings getting stuck in the slide, jack knifing ammo and just random jams. I'm going to try the polishing to see if that helps. I've tried multiple ammo brands but cci mini mag and cci blazers are the only ammo I've had decent luck with. Some ammo types won't even fire like the cci stingers
Is your kit new? It sounds like your kit needs some break-in. The polishing just accelerates the break in. At the end, even weaker ammo will cycle. Make sure you've lubed enough, as well. These kits are pretty sensitive when they're new or dirty.
My AA 17/22 kit came with a thicker barrel and the carrier is inbeded in the barrel which is unfortunate cause I bought a threaded barrel for it and it doesn't really work because of the larger hole in the slide. Now I'm out 120.00.😢
I've had my AA LE17 Gen 3 for years and found it unreliable with recommended ammo with maybe a 90% or less reliable function. I have honed with a fine china stone all friction surfaces. Pulled it out recently considering selling it. Give it one more try but lubed with DUPONT dry lube including lubing the slide spring. Amazing difference, reliability on average increased to about 97% including ammo with 0% reliability in the past. Cycled Game-Shok 31g 1400 fps. Cleaned and wet lubed then reliability dropped back to 90% or less. Had ordered threaded barrel and went back to dry lube. The extra 1/2 inch of threaded barrel seem to increase reliability to 98%. Add the suppressor and you are at 99%+ with most ammo, have not used any subsonic at this time. Some HP nose designs seem to jam when chambering but ball ammo is near 100%. I am extremely happy with my AA now.
Thanks for the suggestion on the dry Lube. I’m going. To give that a shot (no pun intended) to see if I can get just a bit more reliability. Initially the kit is good but if I get lazy and don’t clean it, I get some reliability issues.
@@SnailEggsWithNailsInThem Probably 1000 rounds from purchase until barrel change. Always considered modifying the slide spring and even had a new spring when I changed out the barrel but never used it because of the improvement with new barrel. I would think with 1000 rounds and all the polishing I did would have broken it in. Could it have been the spec. of the OEM chamber causing extra friction of expanded casing, beats me. I just know I now have a highly reliable plinker that I love that shoots .22 or 9mm.
Did you use dupoinr non stick lube? there is a company called borebuddy that sells a “better” extractor then the stock one. Not sure if it actually is i havent gotten enough rounds throughout it yet, I will update you tho. Also i have tried installing a glock 44 ejector it does seem to eject better but kinda defeats the purpose if you do not have a specific build for this slide.
@ With the longer threaded barrel It has been very reliable. Haven't put the 9mm slide and barrel back on it for a long time. It is my most utilized handgun now.
If this treatment is indeed needed, I would appreciate a full video on tare down, polishing (how much does one polish....when is it enough?), and reassembly. For someone who has never dissembled a slide, that instructional video would be gold. Are you able to shoot CCI standard through the gun now? How about suppressed (since that is the only reason I'm getting the kit). Thanks!
Greetings . There isn’t a “tear down” per se. Just field strip the like you would clean it. Plenty of videos on UA-cam on how to field strip a Glock. And polish the bits I showed. Till they’re shiny. That’s it. I can shoot anything through the gun and it will cycle. I don’t shoot this suppressed so can’t help you there.
625guns has a full auto suppressed video There are several videos Advantage arms suppressed Someone should be able to steer you in the right direction. I don’t have one myself. I’m waiting for the zombie 🧟♀️ apocalypse to avoid the nfa stamp🤪
I'm XD9 rookie looking for 22LR kit.... AA has XD40-4 kit for it, but no solid video reviews.... Your opinion (or talk heard)?.... does your G eat Federal 22LR?.... good day.... sammy
Haven't heard anything specific about their other kits. I'm sure they have this figured out though. They've been around long enough. My kit eats anything I feed it. It's still really sensitive to being dirty, but that's the nature of the conversion kit.
I am definitely looking at one for my glock 17. Why dont they recommend thunderbolt? Barrel leading or inconsistent charge? They do allow federal automatch?
It's normally an issue of FPS. Run something that is consistently high velocity. In particular since you're running a 17 conversion, which being larger, is going to be heavier and will need the extra "umph" of a higher velocity round to cycle the kit.
@@gunny6128 I finally picked one up. I did this polishing first thing. I took my time by hand. I have shot thunderbolt, federal automatch, armscor 36 grain hv. , punch, velocitir. All have functioned without issue. I took some 0000 steel wool wrapped small bit on bronze bore brush. I smeared some flitz on it and spun the chamber and yes even bore. It polished the chamber and I am sure took rough edges out of bore. The rounds I use are not recommend as AA days they will lead barrel. Before I shoot I put about 500 rounds in zip lock bag. S pi ray sides with WD40. Roll rounds around to lightly coat them. This allows for smooth function and decreased leading. I verified by running bronze bore brush wrapped with 100 percent chore boy every 50 rounds to check for lead particles. It took about 150 rounds before I saw any small particles. I did the bore and chamber polishing one more time for good measure. I chuck the brush on a cleaning rod to a variable speed drill and run pretty low rpms. I do it for about 1 minute or so. I still check the heading status every 4 mags but the duration of seeing any particles is becoming longer. Love this setup it's a great training tool and 22lr plinker. Glad I got it. Just keep it clean and light lubed. You cant go wrong.
Would really liked aeeing extractor and sticker safety removal. Do you punch extractor from top to bottom? How to get striker safety out. Is it same as glock?
So does the ejector have a roll pin? If you punch it out can you reuse the same pin? I see on their site. They have a replacement kit that includes a new pin,,, I wanted to polish it, but I’m afraid of damaging the pin
Do you mean the “extractor”? If so, It would probably be a good idea to get a new pin. I believe it's a "split" pin and TECHNICALLY, once those have been used, they're "Deformed" and don't hold as well when you re-use them. That being said, your mileage may vary and you could probably re-use it. You can polish all the other stuff with the exception of the extractor and see how that works out for you. Save the extractor polish as a "last resort".
@@CDCLLC thank you for the input and I agree I don’t think it’s necessary for me to polish the extractor, I did polish everything else up especially the barrel and it does seem like it made a huge difference I’m going to go test it out today. I just think my conversion kit is not a huge fan of Aguila 40gr so hopefully this polish job will improve things, I see people talk about the break-in period But I purchased this kit used and it was pretty dirty and I had to do a deep cleaning. 😎👍
This is pretty similar to what I’ve done on a couple of mine. I might revisit a couple of pieces. I would like to get one to cycle rat shots and subsonic. Might be quite the challenge.
I had another thing I was curious about advantage arms says not to run hollow points. Is there anything you can do specifically that will help you run hollow points? Just curious cause I have tons of Remington golden hollow points.
The "eat anything" mod allows me to run hollow points pretty consistently. Sometimes the hollow point gets "crushed" and there's a failure to feed, but most of the time they work. Winchester hollow points have been the ones i've been using most recently.
@@CDCLLC OK thanks yeah after I polished everything up, it feels smooth as butter now and I ran 200 rounds of Aguila 40gr and only had one stove pipe, I just haven’t ran any of my hollow points yet but I think I will next range trip 😎👍
It's held in together with the extractor. That roll pin that holds in the extractor also holds in the spring and the striker safety. I didn't end up taking it, I just did it all by hand.
Can you explain that to me more clearly? I have a advantage arms g17 22lr magazine 10 round but I want a couple extra rounds in my magazine, do you know how u could do that?
@@silverback3926 good looks man, is that the 26/27 Glock magazine plunger you're referring to? Do I need to make any modifications to the magazine or plunger as well? Or is it just drop in & it'll function.
Look at the top of the slide. There's a Roll Pin there. You will have to very carefully knock that roll pin out. There's a spring behind your extractor so make sure that doesn't go flying across the room.
No it wouldn't. Despite how this increases the kit's ability to shoot a wider range of ammo, .22LR in general is not a reliable caliber. The last thing you need when you have to fire your gun is the gun to go "CLICK" when you expect it to go "Bang". Centerfire ammo is more reliable and therefore your "go to" when choosing self defense calibers.
Can I just buy the barrel and magazine and swap out my 9mm barrel on my glock 19 and replace it with the .22lr barrel. Or is the slide crucial. I have a slide I'd like to use
You can, but many people do not have access to the required grits. A couple passes with 4000 or higher grit would really be all you need. Polishing compound is pretty much once and done.
What? These aren't screws and nuts. You're not going to get galling. Just lubricate like you're supposed to. The thousands of kits in existence that have probably fired millions of rounds would beg to differ with your analysis.
Scrub out the barrel. Probably have a lot of lead fouling. Get some 0000 steel wool and wrap that around an old bronze brush. Get some good cleaner/solvent and scrub the barrel out. You should see long strips of silver colored material come out. That would be the lead fouling in the rifling that you're pulling out.
BTW: That "mother's mag wheel cleaner". I use that stuff on everything now. It really brings out quite a shine. Kudos !
My "eat anything" mod is still doing just that - Eating any kind of 22LR ammo with the obvious and judicious exception of high
velocity ammo.
oustanding! glad it's working. I, too, tend to find things to use that mag wheel polish on. It's a huge tub compared to how you're actually using for this mod.
Thank you so much for reporting back!
For what it is worth...
This mod worked very well for me .
Found a an Advantage Arms 22 LR conversion kit for a Gen 3 Glock 17. I did exactly what the video says in terms of parts polishing. In addition I noticed the feed ramp on the barrel had a burr on it near the bottom. Removed it and polished the feed ramp.
First try at the range it worked and worked wonderfully. I started with CGI 40 Grain Round nose exactly what Advantage Arms suggested. No problems. Much to my surprise it also shot Federal Copper Plated Hollow points. No problems.
I can't say for other types of ammo as those are the only two 22 LR loads I had.
Thanks for the advice in the video. The "Eat Anything" mod worked for me.
outstanding!
@@CDCLLC FYI: The latest range trip: A couple of hiccups but I think that is more on the ammo than the conversion kit or the "eat anything" mod. Even a very reliable and "eat anything" gun like a Tippman Arms M-4 22 LR has it's fair share of issues more on ammo quality than anything else. The thing is keep these conversion kits clean enough to eat from and ammo issues aside they should work quite well.
You got a new sub bro! Great content. Enjoy the way the info and details are presented
glad you enjoyed it!!
Thank u so much did the fluff and buff the advantage arms worked flawlessly any ammo,,did it before I took it out for the first time,,
awesome!
I have not shot my conversion kit yet. Testing the firing pin on a snap cap and comparing its strike to my P322s strike, the P322 strikes deeper and does not span the whole rim like the advantage arms. The P322 may just hit harder, or the AA kit may displace the strike across the whole rim and lose some ability to ignite the primer. I have not compared the two firing pins to see if there is any difference in the striking surface. The P322 had been pretty reliable. I had a few duds that fired after loading them again.
This definitely works, did this to a brand new slide, put a few hundred rounds through it and you could tell the difference. Also i realized this kit likes brass tip more than lead tip, i had a lot more malfunctions with lead tip ammo
Excellent vid. Thank you. Will give this a try.
Thanks, everything done according to your suggestion I hope it helps.
Currently I still had a problem and I couldn't find ammo that will work.
The only problems I had was I was trying to run 20+ year old Winchester ammo, and the extractor would skip over the lip of casing and not extract it. Solution was new ammo (CCI), and filing the step (a flat point) out of the extractor, and bringing it to a point (not sharp).Runs like a champ now. If I polished it out, I would just end up taking material out where it's already taken out just from using it.
Indeed. You definitely don't want to file and polish the extractor. Most people are a bit more comfortable with "polishing" vs filing. that little sliding piece and the other polishing points are going to benefit from the slicker surface.
I'm thinking about getting one of these. Because I love building glockstyle guns and I have a Fleet of daggers already. Phil, 1 or 2 of the P80 style well, 2 of them won in the 19 and 1 of the 17.
But hands down out of all of the models. It has to go-between the dagger for the bank for the book. The comfort and the available options durability end cost. Put the P80 set up. It's also nice but not fun to conceal carry tears my stomach up LO. L But
I was weary when I got my first PSA dagger because it was not a Glock. My first blocks were the 22 and the 23 police trade ends 300 apiece. I went with them because they are actually 4 guns and one you have the 22 l, R, the 9 millimeter, the 40 that it shoots add the 357 option. It's a no-brainer. There are the perfect size for may. I can't do the super big glocks and the little chunky blocky ones. Blood this advantage arms has an amazing deals
THANK YOU! I've been looking for days on how to properly re-install that carrier dohickie (please excuse me but I INSIST on using professional terminology here) thingy. The instructions AA served up were just a bit inadequate. That said, please add some details on lube and polishing compound you are using. While I'm sure they are easily found, if you have a good source, I'd be happy to know about it.
Slip 2000 seems to work very well as a lube. Mother's Mag Wheel polish is a good place to go if you're doing hand polishing.
Nobody on UA-cam has shown the extractor spring, I need to know if the early models are the same size as the newer late models, yes there is different generations, early models don't have a roll pin through the top
Mine was manufactured in 2012 so I take it it’s not old enough? It looks to me like it has a roll pin in it, I wanted to remove it to polish the ejector, but I don’t have a replacement pin yet. Looks like I might have to order a replacement set
I'm having a problem with the spent casings getting stuck in the slide, jack knifing ammo and just random jams. I'm going to try the polishing to see if that helps. I've tried multiple ammo brands but cci mini mag and cci blazers are the only ammo I've had decent luck with. Some ammo types won't even fire like the cci stingers
Is your kit new? It sounds like your kit needs some break-in. The polishing just accelerates the break in. At the end, even weaker ammo will cycle. Make sure you've lubed enough, as well. These kits are pretty sensitive when they're new or dirty.
BoreBuddy makes an improved extractor that will fix that right up
Excellent Video thank you
My AA 17/22 kit came with a thicker barrel and the carrier is inbeded in the barrel which is unfortunate cause I bought a threaded barrel for it and it doesn't really work because of the larger hole in the slide. Now I'm out 120.00.😢
I've had my AA LE17 Gen 3 for years and found it unreliable with recommended ammo with maybe a 90% or less reliable function. I have honed with a fine china stone all friction surfaces. Pulled it out recently considering selling it. Give it one more try but lubed with DUPONT dry lube including lubing the slide spring. Amazing difference, reliability on average increased to about 97% including ammo with 0% reliability in the past. Cycled Game-Shok 31g 1400 fps. Cleaned and wet lubed then reliability dropped back to 90% or less. Had ordered threaded barrel and went back to dry lube. The extra 1/2 inch of threaded barrel seem to increase reliability to 98%. Add the suppressor and you are at 99%+ with most ammo, have not used any subsonic at this time. Some HP nose designs seem to jam when chambering but ball ammo is near 100%. I am extremely happy with my AA now.
Thanks for the suggestion on the dry Lube. I’m going. To give that a shot (no pun intended) to see if I can get just a bit more reliability. Initially the kit is good but if I get lazy and don’t clean it, I get some reliability issues.
Have you ever considered breaking in a gun before deciding you hate it
@@SnailEggsWithNailsInThem Probably 1000 rounds from purchase until barrel change. Always considered modifying the slide spring and even had a new spring when I changed out the barrel but never used it because of the improvement with new barrel. I would think with 1000 rounds and all the polishing I did would have broken it in. Could it have been the spec. of the OEM chamber causing extra friction of expanded casing, beats me. I just know I now have a highly reliable plinker that I love that shoots .22 or 9mm.
Did you use dupoinr non stick lube? there is a company called borebuddy that sells a “better” extractor then the stock one. Not sure if it actually is i havent gotten enough rounds throughout it yet, I will update you tho. Also i have tried installing a glock 44 ejector it does seem to eject better but kinda defeats the purpose if you do not have a specific build for this slide.
@ With the longer threaded barrel It has been very reliable. Haven't put the 9mm slide and barrel back on it for a long time. It is my most utilized handgun now.
Thanks great information
If this treatment is indeed needed, I would appreciate a full video on tare down, polishing (how much does one polish....when is it enough?), and reassembly. For someone who has never dissembled a slide, that instructional video would be gold. Are you able to shoot CCI standard through the gun now? How about suppressed (since that is the only reason I'm getting the kit). Thanks!
Greetings . There isn’t a “tear down” per se. Just field strip the like you would clean it. Plenty of videos on UA-cam on how to field strip a Glock.
And polish the bits I showed. Till they’re shiny. That’s it.
I can shoot anything through the gun and it will cycle.
I don’t shoot this suppressed so can’t help you there.
625guns has a full auto suppressed video
There are several videos
Advantage arms suppressed
Someone should be able to steer you in the right direction.
I don’t have one myself. I’m waiting for the zombie 🧟♀️ apocalypse to avoid the nfa stamp🤪
Just got and noticed that the inside piece is hard to get back into the barrel to extractor - does it need some lube to pop back in seems tight
Need A Detail Video On Disassemble and Reassemble
Not my video, but a quick search brought this one up: ua-cam.com/video/DHm73ARX5uE/v-deo.html
I'm XD9 rookie looking for 22LR kit.... AA has XD40-4 kit for it, but no solid video reviews.... Your opinion (or talk heard)?.... does your G eat Federal 22LR?.... good day.... sammy
Haven't heard anything specific about their other kits. I'm sure they have this figured out though. They've been around long enough.
My kit eats anything I feed it. It's still really sensitive to being dirty, but that's the nature of the conversion kit.
I am definitely looking at one for my glock 17. Why dont they recommend thunderbolt? Barrel leading or inconsistent charge? They do allow federal automatch?
It's normally an issue of FPS. Run something that is consistently high velocity. In particular since you're running a 17 conversion, which being larger, is going to be heavier and will need the extra "umph" of a higher velocity round to cycle the kit.
@Civilian Defense Concepts, LLC so doing the modification on the g17 model 22 wouldn't help the gun cycle with any ammo?
@@gunny6128 I finally picked one up. I did this polishing first thing. I took my time by hand. I have shot thunderbolt, federal automatch, armscor 36 grain hv. , punch, velocitir. All have functioned without issue. I took some 0000 steel wool wrapped small bit on bronze bore brush. I smeared some flitz on it and spun the chamber and yes even bore. It polished the chamber and I am sure took rough edges out of bore.
The rounds I use are not recommend as AA days they will lead barrel. Before I shoot I put about 500 rounds in zip lock bag. S pi ray sides with WD40. Roll rounds around to lightly coat them. This allows for smooth function and decreased leading. I verified by running bronze bore brush wrapped with 100 percent chore boy every 50 rounds to check for lead particles.
It took about 150 rounds before I saw any small particles.
I did the bore and chamber polishing one more time for good measure. I chuck the brush on a cleaning rod to a variable speed drill and run pretty low rpms. I do it for about 1 minute or so.
I still check the heading status every 4 mags but the duration of seeing any particles is becoming longer. Love this setup it's a great training tool and 22lr plinker. Glad I got it. Just keep it clean and light lubed. You cant go wrong.
Do aftermarket backplates fit on this kit
Would really liked aeeing extractor and sticker safety removal. Do you punch extractor from top to bottom? How to get striker safety out. Is it same as glock?
Pretty much the same as a glock. If you can do it to a Glock Slide, you can do it to this. ua-cam.com/video/DHm73ARX5uE/v-deo.html
So does the ejector have a roll pin? If you punch it out can you reuse the same pin? I see on their site. They have a replacement kit that includes a new pin,,, I wanted to polish it, but I’m afraid of damaging the pin
Do you mean the “extractor”? If so, It would probably be a good idea to get a new pin. I believe it's a "split" pin and TECHNICALLY, once those have been used, they're "Deformed" and don't hold as well when you re-use them. That being said, your mileage may vary and you could probably re-use it. You can polish all the other stuff with the exception of the extractor and see how that works out for you. Save the extractor polish as a "last resort".
@@CDCLLC thank you for the input and I agree I don’t think it’s necessary for me to polish the extractor, I did polish everything else up especially the barrel and it does seem like it made a huge difference I’m going to go test it out today. I just think my conversion kit is not a huge fan of Aguila 40gr so hopefully this polish job will improve things, I see people talk about the break-in period But I purchased this kit used and it was pretty dirty and I had to do a deep cleaning. 😎👍
My barrel doesn’t even come out on mine ?
This is pretty similar to what I’ve done on a couple of mine.
I might revisit a couple of pieces.
I would like to get one to cycle rat shots and subsonic.
Might be quite the challenge.
Yeah. That might be rough. THere's a fair bit of drag on the slide, even when polished.
You would need a way lightest spring to cycle rat shot. It would almost feel like an airsoft gun. To be fair, no gun was designed to cycle those loads
I had another thing I was curious about advantage arms says not to run hollow points. Is there anything you can do specifically that will help you run hollow points? Just curious cause I have tons of Remington golden hollow points.
The "eat anything" mod allows me to run hollow points pretty consistently. Sometimes the hollow point gets "crushed" and there's a failure to feed, but most of the time they work. Winchester hollow points have been the ones i've been using most recently.
@@CDCLLC OK thanks yeah after I polished everything up, it feels smooth as butter now and I ran 200 rounds of Aguila 40gr and only had one stove pipe, I just haven’t ran any of my hollow points yet but I think I will next range trip 😎👍
@@CDCLLC thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it.
how did you get the striker safety out?
It's held in together with the extractor. That roll pin that holds in the extractor also holds in the spring and the striker safety. I didn't end up taking it, I just did it all by hand.
Another tip on mags. Use the 26 mag plugs on 10 round 17 mags. You get reliable functioning 13 round mags.
great tip!
Can you explain that to me more clearly? I have a advantage arms g17 22lr magazine 10 round but I want a couple extra rounds in my magazine, do you know how u could do that?
@@AV-pn2vl get the Glock 26 magazine plunger and install. it gives me 13 rounds of flawless functioning in my glock 17 mags.
@@silverback3926 good looks man, is that the 26/27 Glock magazine plunger you're referring to? Do I need to make any modifications to the magazine or plunger as well? Or is it just drop in & it'll function.
@@AV-pn2vl drop in. no mods needed. yes the 26/27 magazine plunger.
Will this fit the glock 44 as a “substitute “ ? I’m trying to find any aftermarket parts compatible with the Glock 44
Nope. Totally incompatible
Is this work on umarex glock polymer frame?
No. It has to work on a real gun frame not airsoft
Is that guide rod is metal?
From what I remember. Yes. It’s aluminum.
Is there any 76% percent frames that would work?
You'd probably have to run a gen 3 kit and not a gen 4 kit. as the 80% frames are gen 3.
Will the g44mag work with advantahe arms kit?
Unfortunately, no. The feed lip angles on the mags are different.
How do I take out the extractor though!!?!
Look at the top of the slide. There's a Roll Pin there. You will have to very carefully knock that roll pin out. There's a spring behind your extractor so make sure that doesn't go flying across the room.
Would this make your gun into a viable for home defense?
No it wouldn't. Despite how this increases the kit's ability to shoot a wider range of ammo, .22LR in general is not a reliable caliber. The last thing you need when you have to fire your gun is the gun to go "CLICK" when you expect it to go "Bang". Centerfire ammo is more reliable and therefore your "go to" when choosing self defense calibers.
I have an older model slide and the extractor spring needs replaced but can't figure out how to remove the extractor and plunger
There’s a roll pin that holds the extractor in place. It has to be driven out (one way). I’d just send it back for a total reconditioning.
@@CDCLLC there is no pins around the extractor on the older models, I emailed them hope they can take care of it for me
Does this work on g45
Never thought of putting it on a G45. You'd probably need a kit for a Gen5 GLock 19.
Can I just buy the barrel and magazine and swap out my 9mm barrel on my glock 19 and replace it with the .22lr barrel. Or is the slide crucial. I have a slide I'd like to use
The slide is critical. The AA barrel will not work with a stock slide.
couldn’t you also polish with wet dry sandpaper?
You can, but many people do not have access to the required grits. A couple passes with 4000 or higher grit would really be all you need. Polishing compound is pretty much once and done.
That's it? And people complain. Fix the problem, don't bitch about it. I'm getting too old for this.
I just use baby wipe and CLP and call it a day. No polishing.
cleaning is not the point. Polishing the kit increases the ability for the kit to use all kinds of ammo.
Aluminum and Glock steel inserts on the frame. Not a happy friction marraige.
What? These aren't screws and nuts. You're not going to get galling. Just lubricate like you're supposed to. The thousands of kits in existence that have probably fired millions of rounds would beg to differ with your analysis.
I have one that started to keyhole? Same ammo I’ve always used, Glock 17 gen 3.
Scrub out the barrel. Probably have a lot of lead fouling. Get some 0000 steel wool and wrap that around an old bronze brush. Get some good cleaner/solvent and scrub the barrel out. You should see long strips of silver colored material come out. That would be the lead fouling in the rifling that you're pulling out.