That "mess" as you called it was nothing-- mine were full within 1" of the top with hard dry compacted dirt and STONES! The dusty dirt was getting inaround the plate and the pebbles must have got in further back in the hole that the hoses come in. That's either appalling design in a 2 008 Takeuchi TB016 or both sides are missing some seals. But glad to see someone else struggling -- but you made it so very well done, sir.
After snapping the jaws of my cheap imported adjustable wrench, while working on my excavator, I went to Sears the other day and found a 3 pack of adjustable Craftsman wrenches that were made in the U.S.A. and bought them. The man who was running the register complained about the Chinese made tools. I pointed out, these specifically said they were manufactured in the U.S.A. and he couldn't believe it. I also picked up a Bonnie 10" adjustable from the antique store along with another smaller one from a different manufacturer. Its hard to say if the alloy is any better, but the fit and finish is better on the older ones. The new ones are not finished sanded and are not as round or contoured through the handle. Therefore the old ones feel better in hand, but the new ones are thicker. I was not hopeful walking in, but walked a little taller when I left. I love the U.S.A. God Bless!
Just FYI if you have an Allen socket that is messed up like that go to a sae or metric. Which ever is the next closes one and pound that in. If it doesn't fit try using a torex bit. They bite into the sides a bit and have come out for me in the past
11:45 do not put grease on threads that may need to come apart in the future, the grease dries out and acts like a brake pad and jams the bolts in place. Use copper coat or rescue steel. Rescue steel does not dry out or lose its lube properties.
Thanks for the comment. I do try to show how to do repair work with the simple everyday tools, sometimes I use special tools to show that there is a tool for that, sometimes I have no choice like welding, or some hydraulic tools etc.
Impact driver, no not an impact wrench but an impact driver, the type you hit with a hammer, almost all allen bolts come out easily with one of those. Motorcycle mechanics use them for head bolts all the time, the constant heating and cooling cycle can make head bolts very difficult to remove and alot of them are allen bolts. www.mackay.co.uk/gedore-k-1900013-handoperated-impact-driver-set-12-tools.html The other method is to slightly tighten the bolt first, before trying to remove it. Grease is the worst thing you can use for bolts, anti-seize or lock-tite, grease can actually prevent a bolt from going all the way in and will give you false torque readings. We use grease to tension tracks on some machines, just to give you an idea how much pressure it can take, easily hundreds psi if not thousands. For your application, where the tracks are always in the shit, good ol' anti-seize is best and you should always run your threads with a tap to clean them out, then blow out with air gun. Personally, if I can, I use brake cleaner or something in them too as most of those products remove rust, the cleaner the threads, the better the product will work.
..I've got a good book....by Carroll Smith....'Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners'.....says for stuck allens....heat the head to red hot, then quickly hit the center of detent with a center punch......relieves some of the pressure.....And... Near me, here in Sacramento...Capitol Clutch and Brake...specializes in BIG truck brakes and clutches......they have a pretty good line of tools......Sunex.....the allen drivers/sockets are one piece forged....
I agree with William the days of decent Sear tools are gone. Gordon do you know if Gray tools are still made in Canada, they used to be fine tools. I'm glad you put that good grease in there I was going to say use some anti-seize.
Gordon anti-seize might have been better for the threads, and also you could have taken the block to a machine shop and counterbored enough area to fit a socket over the bolt head so you wouldnt need washers.you might could have had machine shop skin cut original block to clean up and reuse
Thanks for the video! I just had to do this same procedure on my 334. (Replaced a bunch of bad/questionable hoses, too.) Now I'm left wondering how/where I bleed the hydraulic system. Any tips?
It’s self bleeding, just fill the oil to the middle of the site glass and run the machine and operate the cylinders back and forth or let it bleed the next time you use it
Just a suggestion to why your tools did fail; If the threads on the bolt where metric, could the head also be metric? Imperial and metric tools are not the same size. thay almost fit, but not a tight fit. Ald in your case you need full strength, so it has to be as tight as possible. I'm Norwegian and uses metric sizing. Therefore we struggle whith the same problem the other way around, when dealing with Imperial sizes. And ofcourse; cheap tools will always be cheap tools....
337 is a little bigger than my 331 so I doubt the motor is the same. Bobcat has these old machines on their website but is a bit tricky to find, they have all the machines and parts catalog with part numbers. After reading your ? again, I think you were asking about the 2 speed valve, it probably is the same but not sure.
What was the symptom of the machine that led you to the 2-speed valve replacement? Thanks. I've got a similar 331 and the high speed only works in reverse now. Beginning the troubleshooting. Great info Gordon, thanks for the videos.
Thanks for the video Gordon. I have a 2002 Bobcat 334 and one track will not turn whatsoever. The other side works without any issues so I'm trying to figure out the problem with the faulty side. If I replace this part, could that solve the problem?
I don't think this 2 speed valve is your trouble. Did you check your linkage for the drive sticks under the floor? check the linkage from under the sticks and all the way back to the control valves.
What were the symptoms that lead you to the control valve? I have a 331 and when the rabbit mode is engaged one of the motors doesn't run at high speed and won't turn unless it's in slow speed.
I've got a second hand New Holland (FORD) . Not moving too well. The bucket jerks when I use it and I have to rev things up a lot to get anything to go. Sure could use some ideas. Its a useful piece of equipment if I can get it tweaked up. It was very very poorly maintained.
Better make sure the hydraulic oil is not too low and if the hydro oil filter has any water in it, better change the oil. If it's not the oil or the filter, then take it to a hydraulic shop, I hope it's not the pump. Thanks for watching.
Floydd I'd check the hydrolic pressure if it's the pump you can replace the pistons and swashplate and you should be in good shape but the reason I say check the pressure is it could be a flow valve
Check Hyd. fluid level, follow manufacturer's instructions, change fluid, could be condensation build up or never changed, yes it does matter. Change filter !!!! Most have a port on them, hyd. system's, so you can check the pressure, pressure relief valve could be stuck open or part way open or blowing off way too soon, although that you should be able to hear. Pressure gauge should not be too expensive at Princess Auto or your local shop should be able to do it for cheap. Check Hyd. tank to see if suction intake is blocked, drop magnet on a string in tank to see if you get any metal shavings, some is normal, very fine, kinda mucky like, but shiny shards not good. Check hyd. hose that feeds pump, see if it " collapse's ". Hopes this helps.
Floydd I have a 1994 785 . Did same thing. Under seat on drivers side( left ) you will see a big nut cap vertical facing upwards. That is the suction filter screen. I have to clean mine a few times a year . This is the best machine I ever had.
Floydd pop off suction screen under seat next to hyd pump. Hose connects to pump to screen housing. It's a 1- 1/8 inch socket to get hex cap off. Wash suction screen off.
There's no chance Sears tool's are going to get better, if they are still in business by this time next year it will be a miracle! Bobcat should give you a tube of Vaseline with every purchase, I loath dealing with that company!
Have you tried Habror Freight's ratchets, I have a couple and they are so far, much better than Craftsman, HF is beefing up the quality on a lot of their tools, their floor jacks are as good as anybody's and cheap. They still have a lot of Chinese junk, but they're getting better. I was really disappointed with that craftsman allen socket.
Not their ratchets but I do have their impact sockets, , a 30 year old floor jack that has been overloaded at least 100 times and a torque wrench. The Snap On man even checked it for me one day and it was within 1%. My dad bought that floor jack back when they were mail order only.
I did use a HF drill to drill out those allen bolts but then I had to change over to a Ridgid drill because the keyless chuck kept coming loose, and I don't think my hands are weak, the HF drill works great for the price but the chuck slips. It's still good for hex bits.
We have had about twenty Dewalt polishers in the shop walk out the door in the last couple years so we got a couple from HF as punishment, they smell like they are burning up every time they use them but they have not stopped working so far and they are about 6 months old and get used daily. I am surprised to say the least.
www.bobcatpartsonline.com/#/catalogBrowser Go to Amazon or Google to find the part after you find the part number. if no luck there you can look for the o-ring store online with the measurement of the rings and order them online or on the phone.
@@2010chavita There is an electric switch for high speed, mine is on the floor, are you sure that switch is working and also the solenoid the switch operates to engage the 2 speed?
As usual, Gordon, you are resourceful and your pragmatic approach to problem solving is very enlightening. Cheers!
Thank you Sir.
@@57bagre what size are those bolts? I am driving 4 hours into mountains and bobcat doesn’t know the size. I’d like to have them with me
That "mess" as you called it was nothing-- mine were full within 1" of the top with hard dry compacted dirt and STONES! The dusty dirt was getting inaround the plate and the pebbles must have got in further back in the hole that the hoses come in. That's either appalling design in a 2 008 Takeuchi TB016 or both sides are missing some seals.
But glad to see someone else struggling -- but you made it so very well done, sir.
After snapping the jaws of my cheap imported adjustable wrench, while working on my excavator, I went to Sears the other day and found a 3 pack of adjustable Craftsman wrenches that were made in the U.S.A. and bought them. The man who was running the register complained about the Chinese made tools. I pointed out, these specifically said they were manufactured in the U.S.A. and he couldn't believe it.
I also picked up a Bonnie 10" adjustable from the antique store along with another smaller one from a different manufacturer. Its hard to say if the alloy is any better, but the fit and finish is better on the older ones. The new ones are not finished sanded and are not as round or contoured through the handle. Therefore the old ones feel better in hand, but the new ones are thicker.
I was not hopeful walking in, but walked a little taller when I left. I love the U.S.A. God Bless!
Just FYI if you have an Allen socket that is messed up like that go to a sae or metric. Which ever is the next closes one and pound that in. If it doesn't fit try using a torex bit. They bite into the sides a bit and have come out for me in the past
11:45 do not put grease on threads that may need to come apart in the future, the grease dries out and acts like a brake pad and jams the bolts in place. Use copper coat or rescue steel. Rescue steel does not dry out or lose its lube properties.
Makes a pleasant change to see someone getting the job done without thousands of pounds/dollars of tools, most of us can't afford.
Thanks for the comment. I do try to show how to do repair work with the simple everyday tools, sometimes I use special tools to show that there is a tool for that, sometimes I have no choice like welding, or some hydraulic tools etc.
my komatsu has a foot operated solenoid to maybe a valve for more oil for two speeds.
Impact driver, no not an impact wrench but an impact driver, the type you hit with a hammer, almost all allen bolts come out easily with one of those. Motorcycle mechanics use them for head bolts all the time, the constant heating and cooling cycle can make head bolts very difficult to remove and alot of them are allen bolts.
www.mackay.co.uk/gedore-k-1900013-handoperated-impact-driver-set-12-tools.html
The other method is to slightly tighten the bolt first, before trying to remove it.
Grease is the worst thing you can use for bolts, anti-seize or lock-tite, grease can actually prevent a bolt from going all the way in and will give you false torque readings.
We use grease to tension tracks on some machines, just to give you an idea how much pressure it can take, easily hundreds psi if not thousands.
For your application, where the tracks are always in the shit, good ol' anti-seize is best and you should always run your threads with a tap to clean them out, then blow out with air gun.
Personally, if I can, I use brake cleaner or something in them too as most of those products remove rust, the cleaner the threads, the better the product will work.
PLEASE try a " LEFT hand" drill bit.
I take the track motor covers off every year, clean them out and paint everything in there with Waxoyl.
Good idea. Thanks for commenting.
..I've got a good book....by Carroll Smith....'Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners'.....says for stuck allens....heat the head to red hot, then quickly hit the center of detent with a center punch......relieves some of the pressure.....And... Near me, here in Sacramento...Capitol Clutch and Brake...specializes in BIG truck brakes and clutches......they have a pretty good line of tools......Sunex.....the allen drivers/sockets are one piece forged....
Thanks for the info and for subbing.
www.mackay.co.uk/gedore-k-1900013-handoperated-impact-driver-set-12-tools.html
Old School
I agree with William the days of decent Sear tools are gone. Gordon do you know if Gray tools are still made in Canada, they used to be fine tools. I'm glad you put that good grease in there I was going to say use some anti-seize.
I don't know about Gray tools.
Gordon anti-seize might have been better for the threads, and also you could have taken the block to a machine shop and counterbored enough area to fit a socket over the bolt head so you wouldnt need washers.you might could have had machine shop skin cut original block to clean up and reuse
Should have used a little heat and those old bolts, they would have came right out...Also use anti-seize on the new bolts.
Thanks for the video! I just had to do this same procedure on my 334. (Replaced a bunch of bad/questionable hoses, too.) Now I'm left wondering how/where I bleed the hydraulic system. Any tips?
It’s self bleeding, just fill the oil to the middle of the site glass and run the machine and operate the cylinders back and forth or let it bleed the next time you use it
@@57bagre Excellent news! Thanks again!
Just a suggestion to why your tools did fail; If the threads on the bolt where metric, could the head also be metric? Imperial and metric tools are not the same size. thay almost fit, but not a tight fit. Ald in your case you need full strength, so it has to be as tight as possible. I'm Norwegian and uses metric sizing. Therefore we struggle whith the same problem the other way around, when dealing with Imperial sizes.
And ofcourse; cheap tools will always be cheap tools....
The bolts were corroded in
Hello. how much does this valve cost?
Hi Mr. Gordon Whats the model number from that Final Drive and is it compatible with Bobcat 337?
Tnx
337 is a little bigger than my 331 so I doubt the motor is the same. Bobcat has these old machines on their website but is a bit tricky to find, they have all the machines and parts catalog with part numbers.
After reading your ? again, I think you were asking about the 2 speed valve, it probably is the same but not sure.
What was the symptom of the machine that led you to the 2-speed valve replacement? Thanks. I've got a similar 331 and the high speed only works in reverse now. Beginning the troubleshooting. Great info Gordon, thanks for the videos.
The manual I bought shows this block as a "Relief Valve" and non-serviceable.
Mine was cracked and leaking.
All mine does is click not sure if it’s the hydraulic motor of valve
Should have cleaned the Allen screw head properly and used a quality tool to undo it
That a Boy Gordon!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the video Gordon. I have a 2002 Bobcat 334 and one track will not turn whatsoever. The other side works without any issues so I'm trying to figure out the problem with the faulty side. If I replace this part, could that solve the problem?
I don't think this 2 speed valve is your trouble. Did you check your linkage for the drive sticks under the floor? check the linkage from under the sticks and all the way back to the control valves.
What were the symptoms that lead you to the control valve? I have a 331 and when the rabbit mode is engaged one of the motors doesn't run at high speed and won't turn unless it's in slow speed.
Mine was cracked and leaking. I don't know if the valve will do what you're saying or if the problem is in the 2 speed drive motor.
Should have soaked in PB blaster for 24 hours worked for me
I've got a second hand New Holland (FORD) . Not moving too well. The bucket jerks when I use it and I have to rev things up a lot to get anything to go. Sure could use some ideas. Its a useful piece of equipment if I can get it tweaked up. It was very very poorly maintained.
Better make sure the hydraulic oil is not too low and if the hydro oil filter has any water in it, better change the oil. If it's not the oil or the filter, then take it to a hydraulic shop, I hope it's not the pump. Thanks for watching.
Floydd I'd check the hydrolic pressure if it's the pump you can replace the pistons and swashplate and you should be in good shape but the reason I say check the pressure is it could be a flow valve
Check Hyd. fluid level, follow manufacturer's instructions, change fluid, could be condensation build up or never changed, yes it does matter.
Change filter !!!!
Most have a port on them, hyd. system's, so you can check the pressure, pressure relief valve could be stuck open or part way open or blowing off way too soon, although that you should be able to hear.
Pressure gauge should not be too expensive at Princess Auto or your local shop should be able to do it for cheap.
Check Hyd. tank to see if suction intake is blocked, drop magnet on a string in tank to see if you get any metal shavings, some is normal, very fine, kinda mucky like, but shiny shards not good.
Check hyd. hose that feeds pump, see if it " collapse's ".
Hopes this helps.
Floydd I have a 1994 785 . Did same thing. Under seat on drivers side( left ) you will see a big nut cap vertical facing upwards. That is the suction filter screen. I have to clean mine a few times a year .
This is the best machine I ever had.
Floydd pop off suction screen under seat next to hyd pump. Hose connects to pump to screen housing. It's a 1- 1/8 inch socket to get hex cap off. Wash suction screen off.
You said $8.00 a PIECE for each O-ring ????
How do you change from low gear to high gear or from 1st to second speed?
On the blade control joystick there is a thumb button that changes it from low to high speed.
what was the part number of that valve?
Mi puoi dire quanto costa sta valvola fai sapere perché sono nella stessa situazione grazie
Come mai non mi rispondi
Is that a nut or bolt on the top of that piece you just took off
It is a hydraulic valve!
Did you try some heat or weld a bolt onto the hex if possible ..Its a small bolt head.Be afraid of a fire also
I wasn't sure why they were seized, It turned out to be aluminum oxidation (white rust) swollen in the bolt holes.
A cracked bolt or a seized one takes a lot of time and effort and unseen time to open..
Don't forget never seeze
do you know which line is the 2 speed and which is the case drain line, im replace my drive motor but I can't fifure out which one is which
Did you figure it out?
There's no chance Sears tool's are going to get better, if they are still in business by this time next year it will be a miracle! Bobcat should give you a tube of Vaseline with every purchase, I loath dealing with that company!
Have you tried Habror Freight's ratchets, I have a couple and they are so far, much better than Craftsman, HF is beefing up the quality on a lot of their tools, their floor jacks are as good as anybody's and cheap. They still have a lot of Chinese junk, but they're getting better. I was really disappointed with that craftsman allen socket.
Not their ratchets but I do have their impact sockets, , a 30 year old floor jack that has been overloaded at least 100 times and a torque wrench. The Snap On man even checked it for me one day and it was within 1%. My dad bought that floor jack back when they were mail order only.
I did use a HF drill to drill out those allen bolts but then I had to change over to a Ridgid drill because the keyless chuck kept coming loose, and I don't think my hands are weak, the HF drill works great for the price but the chuck slips. It's still good for hex bits.
We have had about twenty Dewalt polishers in the shop walk out the door in the last couple years so we got a couple from HF as punishment, they smell like they are burning up every time they use them but they have not stopped working so far and they are about 6 months old and get used daily. I am surprised to say the least.
thank you sir
Thanks for watching.
Any chance you have the part number for the 2 orings? I need them for my machine.
www.bobcatpartsonline.com/#/catalogBrowser Go to Amazon or Google to find the part after you find the part number. if no luck there you can look for the o-ring store online with the measurement of the rings and order them online or on the phone.
That a Boy Gordon
Could have punched in a splines Allen socket and get them out without drlling
Kada snimio video onda pregledaj što si snimio
have you tried welding a nut to the screw??
Eu gostaria de ver a montagem do freio de tração da escavadeira E215B da New Holland
Thanks for watching.
Did you change both o just one
There is only one.
Any side fix the problem I have 331 to and only in slow speed go
@@2010chavita There is an electric switch for high speed, mine is on the floor, are you sure that switch is working and also the solenoid the switch operates to engage the 2 speed?
@@57bagre the switch I push low to high and go on the same speed Mayb I need to check on the switch and solenoid
@@57bagre is there not one for each track? Thanks
Look into a company in Illinois called hydraforce.com