Have had this kit for like 6 months plus new pro comp shocks that I got just for the level but I've never worked on a truck so thank God someone finally has the same kit and is showing how to do it.
@@builditgarage only problem I was having was that I used a 2 jaw puller instead of the torsion tool but the tool kept going at an angle every time I tightened it which caused the key to not even go high enough. So Im going to try again but with an actual torsion bar tool.
@@builditgarage last question will it be easier to have the shocks completely off to put the new shackles on or should the shocks already be on before replacing the shackle
I think it would probably be easier to put the new shocks on when the rear axle is loose and you can position it with a jack. It is not always the best job to have to compress the shock while putting them on the bolt.
For anybody sketched out by the tool and having it move around on you, if you undo the sway bar end links, the upper ball joints, and the tie-rod ends, that will unload the suspension enough to allow the tool to work with much less spring tension on it.
I had a 1987 Ford ranger with a 6 inch lift kit and 31x 10.5x15 tires and it had a V6 engine. Broke the rear drive shaft and had to have it replaced and the drive shaft for the 4x4 pumpkin the drive shaft was half in and half out of the front pumpkin. It wobbled because it wasn't all the way into the front pumpkin and got some tickets for going over the speed limit because the speedometer wasn't recalibrated to allow for the bigger tires.
My ramger cones stock with 31 still rubs alittle I’d like to get a 2 in leveling kit, do I need longer front shock , and would there be a lot of wear on the suspension and tires ?
@@quitecontender8608 since the kit is just changing the ride height with all the original suspension pieces it doesn't over extended the stock shocks. But getting new shocks that might handle your driving situation is never a bad thing. But you can do that later if you need to save up. Remember this is an entry level lift. If you want to truly increase articulation you would need to get a system that changes suspension components. This kit shouldn't require an alignment since you aren't changing any geometry. You are just changing ride height.
I bought this and am currently working on it, replaced the rack and pinion and control arms so decided this was the perfect time to put the lift in... But I definitely should've bought the unloading tool when I bought the 'kit' almost don't with it. Waiting for the tooll to be delivered.
@@zulksmash9128 good luck with your project. Sounds like from other comments you can undo the lower control arm and then manage without the tool, but the instructions didn't say that so I didn't think about it.
@@zulksmash9128 something like that and then use a jack to put it back together instead of having to twist the torsion bar by hand. Not sure what you mean by bushing bolts. I meant the ball joint that connects the lower control arm to the upright.
That is a good question. I of course haven't done a element analysis on it, but the beam has a twist force applied to it that is acting on the vertical sides. The top U shape I assume is doing most of the cross stiffening. The flanges that are ground down are of course providing so rigidity, but the small amount removed probably won't affect the overall strength too much. Since the rest of the beam is unmodified all bending would have to occur in the same small area of the modification. I think it is unlikely that it will bend. But if someone else has different experience or knowledge please add a comment and let us know.
Did you have any issues with the shocks after the lift? I've seen some lift kits that also include new shocks, so I'm wondering what are the pros/cons of staying with the stock shocks, thanks for the video, very helpful, I'll be getting a lift kit soon.
With this kit you are changing the ride height but nothing else, so the suspension will still max out at the same points. It gives more up travel but less down travel. So the stock shocks work fine. They can be changed out at any time to adjust the ride quality, but aren't required for this upgrade. This kit allows you to get more ground clearance and maybe get some larger tires. Putting on new shocks is a good option, but you can do it piece by piece to save money.
I can confirm that factory shocks don't really cause problems but it bounces like crazy. Planning on making a second video with Build It on how to measure / install new shocks on this same truck
@@BryanRiley1 thanks, looking forward to that info on how to measure for new shocks. I installed my lift kit a few months ago and what I did was install some 'extensions'.
Good catch. It looks like a big pile of snow in the video but it is just an inch on top of the light weight stuff he had in the bed. When the bed was all cleaned out it didn't change the height any.
I did this to my 04 and even put a new shocks and now is really stiff( i got the pro comp shocks) and they are supposed to be for the 2.5 to 5 inch lift in front and 0 to 1 inch rear. Does anny body have a better suggestion for shocks? Thanks
Sorry I don't have a real suggestion on shocks. If I were going to purchase some and didn't have to worry about money I would get ones that are adjustable and rebuildable. The 900 dollar Rough Country Vertex shocks I have on my F150 leaked the oil out now I have to buy new shocks. Better to spend a little more and get ones that aren't single use. Remember the shocks should allow compression and then restrict the extension rate so that it can absorb the bump without allowing the truck to bounce as much.
The change is within the travel of the original shocks so technically you don't have to switch them. Eventually when we want a little better ride quality we will put on some new ones. So that is something you can do at a later date if you want to break the project up into chunks for time or budget purposes.
You should not have to buy new ones. They most likely won't brake unless you see some damage when you have them out. But it is your vehicle so you should make the decision that you feel the best doing.
That is a great question but way out of my knowledge base. Not sure if Torch checks the comments in my channel but it would be cool if they could reply. If you are in the Reno area I could help you try it out if you got a kit.
The keys in the kit actually have the torsion bar hex rotated in it more than stock. If you just adjust the stock key you will get some lift but not as much. The adjustment screw is there mainly for leveling in case a torsion bar sags more than the other.
I recently had this kit installed on my 2wd 2004 ranger. It’s pretty level but the rear sags roughly half an inch. Very subtle but noticeable to my ocd mind haha. Did you get the same? Whether or not do you know a remedy to slightly lift the rear?
Not sure how you could lift the rear. It probably has something to do with your leaf springs. You could adjust the front down a little to match. Otherwise you could contact Torch, they might have a suggestion.
You should not have to since you are staying within the normal suspension travel of the Ranger. So, unless yours are bad you should be able to use them.
@@darrenmcadam2318 it was my friend's truck. He really enjoyed it and actually start driving it off road. He just recently sold it since it isn't big enough for his family to fit in.
Hey I’m looking for a lift kit for my 2007 xlt ranger. It’s 2wd and I was just wondering if this same lift kit would work for me or if this is just a 4wd lift kit
Hey I just had my torch off-road leveling kit installed for my 2WD 2004 ranger. Since we’re 2-wheel, we the need coil spring spacers and leaf spring shackles
This truck has 245x75r16's on it. 235's aren't much smaller. I think you should go for it. Then in the future when these tires wear out you can get bigger ones.
For the kit install we just used the stock shocks. It will probably get upgraded some more in the future. But my friend is pretty happy with it the way it is
@@almiighttrack3158 it turned out good. I just recommend getting the torsion key tool that rough country recommends a cheap down and got a different one and it was a lot harder with the one I got.
The lift amount is built into the torsion bar hole in the key. That is set for the three inch lift, then the adjustment screw is only for minor adjustments. I think if you were to rotate the key on the shaft any you would end up with the truck being lowered - if you could even get it to engage in the frame.
You can level a ranger just by cracking the stock torsion bars adjusting bolt. I got about 1.75” off lift doing it that way, and it rides only a little stiffer than factory
He hasn't noticed a difference, but he didn't specifically calculate it before or after the kit install. Mainly the change in fuel economy would come into play if you put different size tires on the truck.
Interesting video. Didn’t you just install the new rear shackles backwards? When you examine the direction things move when going oner bumps and chuckholes. I think you’ll have an unnecessary interference. I believe the zert fitting should be facing car forward. What do the instructions show? Thx for sharing.
There was room for the zert to rotate around. It just seemed like it was easier to get to the fitting from the back instead of the front. I didn't see anything specific in the instructions. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Initially my friend said that the ride was stiffer but he liked it. Then he updated me. He said he started driving it to the stores around him on the BLM trails. He can go a lot faster than he used to be able to go. He is having a lot of fun with it. So it is stiffer but has more up travel is better so it handles better. Hope that helps.
This comes up from time to time on various Ranger videos and threads on forums... tightening the torsion keys should NOT decrease ride quality by itself... the torsion spring isn't rotating any further than it was with the factory keys because torsion bars only rotate a certain amount based upon the weight on them. What IS impacting the ride quality is you are now preloading the rubber bushings in the stock control arms which IS increasing the spring rate of the front suspension. To do this right, you need to loosen ALL of the front control arm bolts which connect to the chassis and tighten them back down WITH LOAD on the tires to "re clock" the factory rubber bushings and remove the preload you'd otherwise have. Between not loosening and retightening the front suspension bolts, and bottoming out the shocks, that is why you have the "it rides rough" message coming through.
You would have to look at your suspension and decide if you think the kit would work. I didn't install it on a 2wd so I don't have one to look at. You should probably contact Torch directly. He is really nice and helpful.
@@builditgarage using 4" 2 jaw puller would have worked much better than that ubolt. Much better leverage. Make sure there is no weight on the tires. They must be hanging.
@@DarrelllCampbelll I don't see how a two jaw puller would be any different than the u-bolt puller except the potential for one of the jaws for slip loose. If I am thinking of what you are talking about it would have a similar bolt in the middle to apply the pressure. You mean something like this? www.harborfreight.com/front-end-service-tool-set-5-pc-56807.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789263518&product=56807&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3v6SBhCsARIsACyrRAnGJqYDeA5ZznLjcU3ve6Pl87TW67_mlj3QVSfhPh550RwF8-566QUaAi_TEALw_wcB
@@builditgarage thats what I used and I didn't need to use as much force as you did. I seen what happen to your threads and that took a lot of torque. I think the angle makes a lot of difference.
@@DarrelllCampbelll yep. I spent a lot of time off camera figuring out the angle. That is when I messed up the threads like I did. That is why I tried to emphasize making sure you get the angle correct. It is always good to have more options, so thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed it. Can you expand on your comment of needing better tools? I usually try to do jobs with common tools so that people feel confident they can do the job themselves. But having comments that include which kind of tools might make the job easier would be helpful. Then people could find out and in future videos I can use that tool or comment on it to make sure if people have the resources, they could do it that. way. If you are referring to the clamping tool, I was trying to show the frustration I was having and how I figured out to correct it with inexpensive tools. Thanks again for your comment.
No offense but honestly don't watch this guy's video I mean this guy is killing himself over nothing if you're mechanically inclined just look at it figure it out Jack it up with a porta power on the Little Dot and you can change it with no problem
Instead of leaving a harsh comment you could have just left constructive feedback about using the porta-power. That might be a good idea, but I would have to test to see if it worked before I did it. And how many people out there that buy this low cost kit have a porta-power or even know what they are? I decided to figure out how to do it like the instructions described with the inexpensive tool Torch sells.
Have had this kit for like 6 months plus new pro comp shocks that I got just for the level but I've never worked on a truck so thank God someone finally has the same kit and is showing how to do it.
Hope everything goes well with your installation. Post if you have any questions.
@@builditgarage only problem I was having was that I used a 2 jaw puller instead of the torsion tool but the tool kept going at an angle every time I tightened it which caused the key to not even go high enough. So Im going to try again but with an actual torsion bar tool.
@@payneszn that makes sense. Good luck
@@builditgarage last question will it be easier to have the shocks completely off to put the new shackles on or should the shocks already be on before replacing the shackle
I think it would probably be easier to put the new shocks on when the rear axle is loose and you can position it with a jack. It is not always the best job to have to compress the shock while putting them on the bolt.
For anybody sketched out by the tool and having it move around on you, if you undo the sway bar end links, the upper ball joints, and the tie-rod ends, that will unload the suspension enough to allow the tool to work with much less spring tension on it.
I fit 31x10.5x15 tires on my stock ranger. Just have to take an inch off the front bumper plastic. But I might try this kit
That is good to know. Thanks.
Fitting them is one thing, womping on them is another
I had a 1987 Ford ranger with a 6 inch lift kit and 31x 10.5x15 tires and it had a V6 engine. Broke the rear drive shaft and had to have it replaced and the drive shaft for the 4x4 pumpkin the drive shaft was half in and half out of the front pumpkin. It wobbled because it wasn't all the way into the front pumpkin and got some tickets for going over the speed limit because the speedometer wasn't recalibrated to allow for the bigger tires.
Very helpful video! Thanks for filming this.
@@dbrutha1 you're welcome. Glad you liked the video and that it was helpful.
I would put a long 2x4 to hold the leaf spring low enough to work on it
My ramger cones stock with 31 still rubs alittle I’d like to get a 2 in leveling kit, do I need longer front shock , and would there be a lot of wear on the suspension and tires ?
@@quitecontender8608 since the kit is just changing the ride height with all the original suspension pieces it doesn't over extended the stock shocks. But getting new shocks that might handle your driving situation is never a bad thing. But you can do that later if you need to save up. Remember this is an entry level lift. If you want to truly increase articulation you would need to get a system that changes suspension components. This kit shouldn't require an alignment since you aren't changing any geometry. You are just changing ride height.
I bought this and am currently working on it, replaced the rack and pinion and control arms so decided this was the perfect time to put the lift in... But I definitely should've bought the unloading tool when I bought the 'kit' almost don't with it. Waiting for the tooll to be delivered.
@@zulksmash9128 good luck with your project. Sounds like from other comments you can undo the lower control arm and then manage without the tool, but the instructions didn't say that so I didn't think about it.
@builditgarage so, remove the bushings bolts to let it hang? 🤔
@@zulksmash9128 something like that and then use a jack to put it back together instead of having to twist the torsion bar by hand. Not sure what you mean by bushing bolts. I meant the ball joint that connects the lower control arm to the upright.
@@builditgarage removing upper ball joint helped make it easier. Finally got it done.
@@zulksmash9128 nice job, thanks for the comments and the update on if that helped.
Great detailed video. Good job giys. Nice looking ranger.
Thanks glad you enjoyed the video.
Might be a dumb question, but does grinding down the metal like that effect the structural integrity of the truck?
That is a good question. I of course haven't done a element analysis on it, but the beam has a twist force applied to it that is acting on the vertical sides. The top U shape I assume is doing most of the cross stiffening. The flanges that are ground down are of course providing so rigidity, but the small amount removed probably won't affect the overall strength too much. Since the rest of the beam is unmodified all bending would have to occur in the same small area of the modification.
I think it is unlikely that it will bend. But if someone else has different experience or knowledge please add a comment and let us know.
Did you have any issues with the shocks after the lift? I've seen some lift kits that also include new shocks, so I'm wondering what are the pros/cons of staying with the stock shocks, thanks for the video, very helpful, I'll be getting a lift kit soon.
With this kit you are changing the ride height but nothing else, so the suspension will still max out at the same points. It gives more up travel but less down travel. So the stock shocks work fine. They can be changed out at any time to adjust the ride quality, but aren't required for this upgrade. This kit allows you to get more ground clearance and maybe get some larger tires. Putting on new shocks is a good option, but you can do it piece by piece to save money.
Yes you need new shocks that are the same length of hight you lifted
I can confirm that factory shocks don't really cause problems but it bounces like crazy. Planning on making a second video with Build It on how to measure / install new shocks on this same truck
@@BryanRiley1 thanks, looking forward to that info on how to measure for new shocks. I installed my lift kit a few months ago and what I did was install some 'extensions'.
@@builditgarage thanks for your video, was very helpful, I installed my kits about 3 months ago.
I did the same with my ford ranger so you can put only the bracket
I assume the hanger is for lifting the box’s right
Oh I see I have the factory one I assume you can buy longer shackles
Hope you got your question figured out. Sorry I missed your question sooner.
Shouldn't you take the heavy wet snow out of the bed before you measure ride height ?
Good catch. It looks like a big pile of snow in the video but it is just an inch on top of the light weight stuff he had in the bed. When the bed was all cleaned out it didn't change the height any.
I did this to my 04 and even put a new shocks and now is really stiff( i got the pro comp shocks) and they are supposed to be for the 2.5 to 5 inch lift in front and 0 to 1 inch rear. Does anny body have a better suggestion for shocks? Thanks
Sorry I don't have a real suggestion on shocks. If I were going to purchase some and didn't have to worry about money I would get ones that are adjustable and rebuildable. The 900 dollar Rough Country Vertex shocks I have on my F150 leaked the oil out now I have to buy new shocks. Better to spend a little more and get ones that aren't single use. Remember the shocks should allow compression and then restrict the extension rate so that it can absorb the bump without allowing the truck to bounce as much.
WHEN PURCHASING AND INSTALLING THE PRODUCT, DO YOU NEED TO INSTALL ANOTHER SIZE SHOCK ABSORBERS?
The change is within the travel of the original shocks so technically you don't have to switch them. Eventually when we want a little better ride quality we will put on some new ones. So that is something you can do at a later date if you want to break the project up into chunks for time or budget purposes.
do you have to buy new tension rod keys? or can you just reuse the old ones? How likely is it that the old ones with break while driving?
You should not have to buy new ones. They most likely won't brake unless you see some damage when you have them out. But it is your vehicle so you should make the decision that you feel the best doing.
Wouldn’t this same kit fit the 1st generation Sport Trac (2001-2005) it has the same front suspension (torsion bars) and leaf springs.
That is a great question but way out of my knowledge base. Not sure if Torch checks the comments in my channel but it would be cool if they could reply.
If you are in the Reno area I could help you try it out if you got a kit.
@@builditgarage I will ask thanks for the answer!
What is the advantage of getting new keys rather than just tightening up the torsion bar without new keys?
The keys in the kit actually have the torsion bar hex rotated in it more than stock. If you just adjust the stock key you will get some lift but not as much. The adjustment screw is there mainly for leveling in case a torsion bar sags more than the other.
I recently had this kit installed on my 2wd 2004 ranger. It’s pretty level but the rear sags roughly half an inch. Very subtle but noticeable to my ocd mind haha. Did you get the same? Whether or not do you know a remedy to slightly lift the rear?
Not sure how you could lift the rear. It probably has something to do with your leaf springs. You could adjust the front down a little to match. Otherwise you could contact Torch, they might have a suggestion.
Did you have to buy camber alignment bushings after installing new keys?
You should not have to since you are staying within the normal suspension travel of the Ranger. So, unless yours are bad you should be able to use them.
Just watched your ranger lift kit video do you still need a wheel alignment after.
@@darrenmcadam2318 the kit is just extending the suspension in its travel so an alignment is only needed it you notice that it changed.
@@builditgarage thanks how has it been in the long term
@@darrenmcadam2318 it was my friend's truck. He really enjoyed it and actually start driving it off road. He just recently sold it since it isn't big enough for his family to fit in.
It looks like just enough of a lift not to extream.
@@darrenmcadam2318 it is a budget friendly lift that gives a couple inches.
Hey I’m looking for a lift kit for my 2007 xlt ranger. It’s 2wd and I was just wondering if this same lift kit would work for me or if this is just a 4wd lift kit
I am not affiliated with Torch so I don't know the specifics of all their kits. It would be best to contact them and ask.
Hey I just had my torch off-road leveling kit installed for my 2WD 2004 ranger. Since we’re 2-wheel, we the need coil spring spacers and leaf spring shackles
Installed this on my truck now I am bouncing everywhere! 🤣 I think I am gonna have to get extended shocks.
That might be a good idea, but seems like the bouncing would be the up travel that causes the issue.
what height are the tires you have on it in the video?
This truck had 245x75r16's on it at the time of the video.
Does anybody know if the shackles work with the Sport Trac?
@carlosaguado9865 asked the same question. I suggested that he ask Torch. Maybe he knows. Not sure if putting his name in will notify him.
Do you think I can fit 32s on my truck once i get the lift?
From what I have read and heard you should be able to fit 32 or 33 inch tires
What size tires are on it, I want to do a similar lift on my 2010 but got 235/75 and think its might look dumb.
This truck has 245x75r16's on it. 235's aren't much smaller. I think you should go for it. Then in the future when these tires wear out you can get bigger ones.
You can fit 31s stock with no lift im gonna try to stuff 33s under their lift now
Let me know how it goes
Update ?
Does this kit fit 2wd ext cab rangers
I am not sure about that. You should ask Torch that question.
Yes
great video guys glad I watched it. But the background music is a bit tiring.
Sorry about that. Thanks for letting me know about the music. I pretty much stopped using music in recent videos.
Did you use the stock shocks in the rear or did you upgrade the shocks?
For the kit install we just used the stock shocks. It will probably get upgraded some more in the future. But my friend is pretty happy with it the way it is
Okay I’m just about to do a lift like this on my ranger so I am just trying to get as much information
@@justin_offroad good luck on your truck project.
@@justin_offroad how it turn out .. planning on lifting my ranger this week
@@almiighttrack3158 it turned out good. I just recommend getting the torsion key tool that rough country recommends a cheap down and got a different one and it was a lot harder with the one I got.
Is there a way to lift 1" with the same kit?
The lift amount is built into the torsion bar hole in the key. That is set for the three inch lift, then the adjustment screw is only for minor adjustments. I think if you were to rotate the key on the shaft any you would end up with the truck being lowered - if you could even get it to engage in the frame.
You can level a ranger just by cracking the stock torsion bars adjusting bolt. I got about 1.75” off lift doing it that way, and it rides only a little stiffer than factory
My husband has a 2002 ford ranger 2wd,4.0,5spd with what he thinks is a 3.88 rear .
Sounds like a nice truck
It’s a edge off road package I’m going to put new stuff in the rear when I get the extra cash. Lol
Fuel mileage?
He hasn't noticed a difference, but he didn't specifically calculate it before or after the kit install. Mainly the change in fuel economy would come into play if you put different size tires on the truck.
Interesting video. Didn’t you just install the new rear shackles backwards? When you examine the direction things move when going oner bumps and chuckholes. I think you’ll have an unnecessary interference. I believe the zert fitting should be facing car forward. What do the instructions show? Thx for sharing.
There was room for the zert to rotate around. It just seemed like it was easier to get to the fitting from the back instead of the front. I didn't see anything specific in the instructions. Thanks for watching and the comment.
How does the truck ride? Is it a lot more stuff up front? I installed a leveling kit on my 07 and it rode really stiff.
Initially my friend said that the ride was stiffer but he liked it. Then he updated me. He said he started driving it to the stores around him on the BLM trails. He can go a lot faster than he used to be able to go. He is having a lot of fun with it. So it is stiffer but has more up travel is better so it handles better. Hope that helps.
This comes up from time to time on various Ranger videos and threads on forums... tightening the torsion keys should NOT decrease ride quality by itself... the torsion spring isn't rotating any further than it was with the factory keys because torsion bars only rotate a certain amount based upon the weight on them.
What IS impacting the ride quality is you are now preloading the rubber bushings in the stock control arms which IS increasing the spring rate of the front suspension. To do this right, you need to loosen ALL of the front control arm bolts which connect to the chassis and tighten them back down WITH LOAD on the tires to "re clock" the factory rubber bushings and remove the preload you'd otherwise have. Between not loosening and retightening the front suspension bolts, and bottoming out the shocks, that is why you have the "it rides rough" message coming through.
Always wear gloves when cranking on the wrenches😉
You mean bitch mittens?
I usually start off wearing some and then take them off at some point and forget to put them back on. Oops
Hello, please do you think we could install it on a
2003 FORD RANGER PICK UP 2WD SINGLE CAB
You would have to look at your suspension and decide if you think the kit would work. I didn't install it on a 2wd so I don't have one to look at. You should probably contact Torch directly. He is really nice and helpful.
You 1st have to remove the spare tire, than the hitch. You also installed the shackles right side up. Now you can't greese the fittings
We were able to grease the fitting without issues.
You made the front 20 times harder than it had to be
You are probably correct. Do you have any suggestions on how to change that?
@@builditgarage using 4" 2 jaw puller would have worked much better than that ubolt. Much better leverage. Make sure there is no weight on the tires. They must be hanging.
@@DarrelllCampbelll I don't see how a two jaw puller would be any different than the u-bolt puller except the potential for one of the jaws for slip loose. If I am thinking of what you are talking about it would have a similar bolt in the middle to apply the pressure.
You mean something like this? www.harborfreight.com/front-end-service-tool-set-5-pc-56807.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789263518&product=56807&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3v6SBhCsARIsACyrRAnGJqYDeA5ZznLjcU3ve6Pl87TW67_mlj3QVSfhPh550RwF8-566QUaAi_TEALw_wcB
@@builditgarage thats what I used and I didn't need to use as much force as you did. I seen what happen to your threads and that took a lot of torque. I think the angle makes a lot of difference.
@@DarrelllCampbelll yep. I spent a lot of time off camera figuring out the angle. That is when I messed up the threads like I did. That is why I tried to emphasize making sure you get the angle correct.
It is always good to have more options, so thanks for the tip.
SOME TIMES 2 HANDS ARE BETTER THAN ONE
Yep, and other times 4 hands are better than two. So, good thing we had all four.
🍀☘️⭐🌟⭐🌟🌟👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment
Great job....need better tools
Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed it. Can you expand on your comment of needing better tools? I usually try to do jobs with common tools so that people feel confident they can do the job themselves. But having comments that include which kind of tools might make the job easier would be helpful. Then people could find out and in future videos I can use that tool or comment on it to make sure if people have the resources, they could do it that. way. If you are referring to the clamping tool, I was trying to show the frustration I was having and how I figured out to correct it with inexpensive tools. Thanks again for your comment.
No offense but honestly don't watch this guy's video I mean this guy is killing himself over nothing if you're mechanically inclined just look at it figure it out Jack it up with a porta power on the Little Dot and you can change it with no problem
Instead of leaving a harsh comment you could have just left constructive feedback about using the porta-power. That might be a good idea, but I would have to test to see if it worked before I did it. And how many people out there that buy this low cost kit have a porta-power or even know what they are?
I decided to figure out how to do it like the instructions described with the inexpensive tool Torch sells.
@@builditgarageyea idk why that dudes so mean lol.
@@yo_its_gingey5329 Some people just can't help themselves I guess.
That poor tool
Yep, it hated this job. Hope this helps others do better.