Teflon tape(for Plumbing) one or two wraps under the "O" Ring will make a tighter leak free seal, be sure to lube with a little vaseline and reassemble!
Thank you, appreciate that. Just so you know, I had another one leak after I replaced the original valve with one of the newer ones which give you more fps. Turns out it wasn't any of the seals, but rather the new valve itself. It had a hairline crack around the cylinder where the CO2 would spew out. Just something to look out for and keep in mind. You can find it by holding the valve up to a light and see if any light bleeds through.
Just made the"Seal"using nylon material for the"Saddle"oring.using electric machinery and made it with same diameter&thickness from the old"seal"lubricate with silicone oil.. And don't need to change the whole"SaddlePart"..save couple bucks.. Tx for the vids btw
Had the exact same set of events happen with my Baikal 1st gen. Bought the o ring for the co2 cartridge piercer. Still leaked. Found the leak was in the firing pin valve coming from all around the locking mechanism. Lots of co2 cartridges later I find this video, I’m about to try your method and hopefully it solves the problem. Perfect video to explain this thank you very much. Has your method lasted keeping the co2 in?
Hey...glad you mentioned this. Because there is a very real possibility that the firing valve itself is leaking which is what I found on one of my units. If you remove the valve inspect the edge around the cylinder while hold it up to a strong light. I found mine to have a crack half away the valve which is where the CO2 was leaking. A problem like this can drive you insane!!!!!! So if anyone has chronic CO2 leaking problems, check you firing valves.
mrtrek64 I did as you recommended and inspected the valve with a x7 magnifying glass, couldn’t see any issues if I’m honest. Checked around the sealing lock as well, bit of ware, but I noticed there’s another rubber o ring to buffer the locking seal with the magazine. The repair kit (if it’s the same as the one I have) had a spare black o ring and I replaced the original one. It dramatically decreased the co2 leakage. Not completely but it’s the best it’s ever been, and after the pressure went down it stopped altogether. Will probably go ahead and use the filler to complete the seal.
Yeas, it worked out just fine. I have another suggestion which might help. You need to source a piece of round brass tube about 4 inches long. the diameter needs to fit perfectly into the hollow part of the firing valve. This is also the exact diameter of the rubber o ring and metal round washer. Instead of dropping everything in from the front like you see in this video, simply insert the round brass tube from the opposite end, and insert all your parts over the brass rod. Then take you w round screw in in piece and push it all in at once. Doing it this was ensures a perfect alignment every time, and you never have an issue trying to catch the threads. The brass rod acts as a guide. I've noticed that alot of these small leaks are do to the parts not being in perfect alignment. But using a brass rod of the correct diameter will solve this for sure.
Teflon tape(for Plumbing) one or two wraps under the "O" Ring will make a tighter leak free seal, be sure to lube with a little vaseline and reassemble!
thank you ... tried it on my old antique makarov.... worked like a charm... you are my hero... love your accent... best wishes...
Thank you, appreciate that. Just so you know, I had another one leak after I replaced the original valve with one of the newer ones which give you more fps. Turns out it wasn't any of the seals, but rather the new valve itself. It had a hairline crack around the cylinder where the CO2 would spew out. Just something to look out for and keep in mind. You can find it by holding the valve up to a light and see if any light bleeds through.
Antique? A real 1951 makarov isn’t even an antique let alone an air one
Just made the"Seal"using nylon material for the"Saddle"oring.using electric machinery and made it with same diameter&thickness from the old"seal"lubricate with silicone oil.. And don't need to change the whole"SaddlePart"..save couple bucks.. Tx for the vids btw
Worked for me. Thanks. CHEF UK 🇬🇧
Had the exact same set of events happen with my Baikal 1st gen. Bought the o ring for the co2 cartridge piercer. Still leaked. Found the leak was in the firing pin valve coming from all around the locking mechanism. Lots of co2 cartridges later I find this video, I’m about to try your method and hopefully it solves the problem. Perfect video to explain this thank you very much. Has your method lasted keeping the co2 in?
Hey...glad you mentioned this. Because there is a very real possibility that the firing valve itself is leaking which is what I found on one of my units. If you remove the valve inspect the edge around the cylinder while hold it up to a strong light. I found mine to have a crack half away the valve which is where the CO2 was leaking. A problem like this can drive you insane!!!!!! So if anyone has chronic CO2 leaking problems, check you firing valves.
mrtrek64 I did as you recommended and inspected the valve with a x7 magnifying glass, couldn’t see any issues if I’m honest. Checked around the sealing lock as well, bit of ware, but I noticed there’s another rubber o ring to buffer the locking seal with the magazine. The repair kit (if it’s the same as the one I have) had a spare black o ring and I replaced the original one. It dramatically decreased the co2 leakage. Not completely but it’s the best it’s ever been, and after the pressure went down it stopped altogether. Will probably go ahead and use the filler to complete the seal.
Yeas, it worked out just fine. I have another suggestion which might help. You need to source a piece of round brass tube about 4 inches long. the diameter needs to fit perfectly into the hollow part of the firing valve. This is also the exact diameter of the rubber o ring and metal round washer. Instead of dropping everything in from the front like you see in this video, simply insert the round brass tube from the opposite end, and insert all your parts over the brass rod. Then take you w round screw in in piece and push it all in at once. Doing it this was ensures a perfect alignment every time, and you never have an issue trying to catch the threads. The brass rod acts as a guide. I've noticed that alot of these small leaks are do to the parts not being in perfect alignment. But using a brass rod of the correct diameter will solve this for sure.
how is the result? hope there s no more leak. please let me know. thanks in advance n have a nice day
Hi..sorry for the late response. yes, it worked perfectly!
@@mrtrek64 great idea. I will remember this. Thanks
Baikal, is a lake in Russia, deepest and oldest lake in the world
did you put any oil on the seal when you put it in
Im ned buy giong sim