The lightest steel road bike? Getting my Steel Bike below 7KG with Darimo and Extralite upgrades
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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As I love riding my steel bike, I wanted to see how low I will be able to drop its weight. Lots of effort, good sum of money and all for what? Was it worth it? What do you think?
Swap out those glasses for contact lenses, easy 100 grams saving!👍
😂😂 might be even 300g 🫣
You still need eye protections with contacts
Considering the steel frame, this is crazy... I wonder how this would work on a super light carbon frame. Cranksets, chainrings and some bolts can be swapped to save some weight and also ultralight qck release axles and inner tubes can save you a few grams... but at this point I think you start to cross the line between durability and safety. Still, go for it, this is good quality underrated content
Thanks a lot. Glad you like it. Already using some titanium QRs. Will try TPU tubes and look for another crankset next 🫣
@@klein-concept On Panda podium they sell the skypivot crankset which weighs only 320g for the crank arms 28g heavier than the thm, but for only a third of the price!
@@bjarne2927 thanks for the tip. Looks like this is an upgrade i should add here 🫣
I'm using those ridenow 32g TPU tubes on a rim brake bike for about 1000 km now. One time a was descending a hill with an average gradient of 10% for 15 minutes and when I finished the wheels were too hot to the touch and the tubes are still fine. I even had one out to check for damage and it was immaculate. It's the best upgrade for the money.
Amazing. Thats what i wanted to hear. Will swap them out next week. Thanks a lot for sharing your experience 🫶
@@klein-concept yeah, just be careful and take your time when mounting them so you don't accidentally pinch them. Happy riding.
@@Dominik3636 will do. Thanks a lot. 🫶
@@klein-concept I think if you swap our the Tubeless Tires for Clinchers, you'd probably save more weight as well since you're going with TPU inner tubes. They also have the RideNow 24g ones which are rim brake safe officially, so additional 24g lighter for front and rear from the 36g ones.
@@Mrjasonjohn74 do you know what the difference is between the 24 and 36g ones? Only reduced width coverage or less puncture protection?
Your frame has the seatpost cutout on the back. This means that if you insert a carbon seatpost into it, your seatclamp has to be facing to the other side. It's a known problem within the bicycle mechanic scene. When you clamp a metal frame with the bolt on the slot side, it tries to force the edges into the post. Normally this is fine with aluminium posts but with carbon you HAVE to rotate the clamp so that there is no force being put DIRECTLY onto the frame slot. I've seen many issues like yours over the years and I'm sure all professional mechanics can prove me right here.
AMAZING. Thanks a lot for that tip with the clamp. This makes so much sense. I will give that a try once i get the repaired seatpost back from Darimo.
🫶
I am assuming this is the case with aluminum framed as well? I ride a standert with a carbon seatpost
@@syedtahaaljunied1900 yes, as soon as its metal with carbon post. In your case I'd even use copper grease to net get the post stuck.
@@YellowKneedMoose thanks, my mechanic did put it around. I bought a new clamp and reversed it. Will proceed to reverse the opposite way.
No dude, you hold ALL wrenches by the end of the handle. Would you use a crankset if the pedals were threaded in the middle of the arm?
Regarding carbon grip compound: No on the steerer tube clamp, yes on the bar clamp. The rotational forces on the steerer clamp are minimal under normal use, and in the event of a crash we want the stem to rotate around the tube rather than rip it around or break the fork/wheel/handlebar/levers.
Thats what i thought as well but the Extralite instructions state: To avoid possible noise / bar rotation keep clamping surface
clean and degreased. Do not use carbon grip paste.
🤔
I would put paste on your bar clamp, you're one pothole away from loosing those bars ;)@@klein-concept
@@hmcps89 thats what i thought as well. Let me reach out to extralite and doublecheck.
I’ve found that the chain is actually a large contributor to the bike weight. hollow pin cut out chains I get would give you decent weight reduction.
Good point. I put on a Dura Ace chain for this reason but let me have a look if there are some other chains out there which could give significant savings.
I heard if you turn your seat post clamp 180 degrees it will prevent marking or damaging carbon posts. I think the main issue is sharp steel edges clamping on super light dry carbon. Consider sanding or smoothing the inside edges of the seat tube
Thank you. Already did the sanding but since turning around the clamp it seems to work way better 🫶
You have a sharp edge at the expansion gap of the seat tube. Take a jewelers file, and clean those burs off. That's how your seat post is getting scored.
Thank you but I already did that after the first repair but it was still squeezing it. Turning the clamp around seemed to have solved the problem 🤜🤛
Hi Michael. I have been using the ride now tpu tubes for 2-3 months on my road bikes. Did a 700km ride in 5 days with them and since most of it was in the mountains there was plenty of up and down. I’ve used them on a scapin eos5 (steel frame ;) with some fulcrum xlr wheels - carbon with aluminium break surface. No problems at all. Thanks for the videos! Looking forward for the next ones. Cheers!
Amazing. Thanks so much for the comment. This is the kind of feedback i was looking for. I guess i will give them a try then and see how many grams that will safe me.
🤜🤛
@@klein-concept i switched from tubless tires and sealent back to normal contis and these tubes and saved about 100g off my bike. Did not enjoy that much tubeless on a road bike. Good for gravel, but i can manage well with tubes for road. Also, am idea for weight saving - that tusk fork from columbus may not be that light. Maybe you can check some options.
Good point on the fork. But i need a 1 inch one so there are not that many options but i will have a look.
Are the GP5000 non tubeless tires lighter than the tubeless compatible ones?
The conti TL ones i have are more than 300g per tire for 28s. For normal contis in 25mm they are at about 220g. I think the str tubless ones are lighter but still heavier than normal ones. So tires swap would be cheap and you add the tpu tibes and you might save at least 100g for maybe 120 euros :) And for the fork, you can stil find look hsc forks with 1 inch threadless carbon steerer. I bough one for a friend last year - 150 euros in really good condition. Weight with 18 cm steerer was 330 grams :) not bad i would say.
@@MirceaCatalinPopescu thanks a lot for the tip. Will have a look at that fork and will give some non TLR tires a try as well. 🤜🤛
Glad you changed the orange cable casings looks much better.Geiles rennrad bauen.💯👌🏻🚲
@@reinholdachleitner2069 thanks a lot 🤜🤛
Still a beautiful build. I still consider this build amazing. Great job.
Thanks a lot 🫶
Use MiG welder to spot weld cable ends. No caps needed. HUGE weight savings! Great build thanks for sharing.
🤩🤩🤩 thats an amazing idea. Ordering a welder 🫣
Use super glue on the ends of the cables, works great, especially if you don't have too much $$$ like me😂😂
@@Ronald-qj5nx that is actually a really good idea. Thank you 🤜🤛
@@klein-concept
you can also just solder them with just a dab, same as an electronics guy would do.
Steel is real! Very slick looking ride my friend. Looking forward to more content.
Thanks a lot mate 🤜🤛
Thank you guys! You rock!
💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
Best rim frame ever. Such a fun ride ❤️🔥
The cheapest way to save more weight get you some maxxis high road sl , light and comfortable to ride. Around 170g for 25mm paired with tpu inner tubes.
Thank you. Will have a look at them 🤜🤛
Steel frames pinch the seat post, so it will always cause damage to carbon seat posts. I would definitely replace with titanium, similar weight but more durable and won’t suffer that damage.
Thank you for the hint. Makes sense. It will now go back to Darimo another time as they said they might have a solution for it. If that doesnt work out i will go with Titanium 🤜🤛
I rode a carbon post in the late 80s, start of 90s with a steel frame. Training and races, 15-20k km/year, never had a problem with this setup. Used it for 5 years. Then switched to a Klein Quantum Race, aluminium frame.@@klein-concept
@@silentandproud882 thanks for confirming this. Will give it another try then. I guess it might have to do with the clamping mechanism.
I have personally been running TPU tubes for around 2 years on a rim brake bike no issues so far. like you video's bro
Thanks a lot. Made the switch to TPU and now have a lighter and cleaner setup. Love it 🤜🤛
Great build and weight!
Thanks so much mate 🫶
Careful with the Nail Polish Remover on carbon, it can dissolve the epoxy. For me with those low torques on the headset, I would be using carbon paste.
I really like TPU tubes. What I do is use tubeless tape to add a layer between the rim and the tube. Have about 20000km on them, with no issues.
Good point with the nail polish remover. Might switch to another method to remove labels 🫣
Maybe you should grind down the clamping area of the seatpost tube of the frame, and/or shim the back of the seatpost?
Was also thinking about adding a shim but as it already is a 27.2 diameter there is not much i could compensate with a shim i think. Also Darimo didnt suggest anything that i should adapt on my side. Lets see what they say after the second claim.
Wow this is truly inspiring 👊🏻 Will think about bringing down the weight of my bike as well… But actually thinking about a completely new build right now and will for sure check all your videos again! Thanks for all this great content ❤️ Keep up the good work…
Thanks a lot Rob. Lets build some lightweight rides 🤜🤛
That Kocevlo seat is like sitting on a rock in a long ride, you should wear a padded short on it.
I did a 1h training session on my other bike so far. With a padded shorts it was pretty comfortable but a bit worried if the edges will rub away the shorts over time.
@@klein-concept I got the same saddle and it hurt after like 3 hours of riding, that is without a padded short, the edges was my primary concern too it kinda hurt when you hit a rough road, but ever since I ride with padded short i do not feel the stress on my bottom anymore, which make that saddle a good bang for your money.
I use rim brakes with aluminium rims, and TPU tubes, never had an issue with over 20,000 Km. Do not have any mountains near me so cannot comment on descents over 1 Km. I find the rims stay far cooler than the disks, just because there is so much more surface area to dissipate the heat .
Thanks a lot. I will swap out the sealant for TPU later this week 🤜🤛
I am currently on carbon rims and rim brakes with these TPU tubes. I haven't put much km on them, about 100 and they seem fine so far. I guess we'll see how it turns out.
I enjoy your builds and you actually motivated me to start a budget build with an old steel frame I have, at some point. Keep it up!
Thanks a lot for that comment. I will swap in the TPU tubes i think next week.
Glad to hear you are motivated to kick off a steel project. It is good fun and these frames ride amazing. 🤜🤛
The 36 g version is approved for rim brakes. @@klein-concept
@@seanpeter3613 oh i didnt know that its official. Thanks for letting me know 🫶
@@klein-conceptthere's a 19g version of ridenow.but it's only for disc
i tried using the same tpu for 250kms. no problem
I have used the Ridenow TPU tubes for over 3000km on rim brakes and chinese ICAN carbon wheels. No issues whatsoever apart that they do loose air. You have to pump them up regularly.
That sounds real good. Thanks a lot for sharing your experience. Will swap mine in next week. Wonder if the tubeless ready GP5000 are heavier than the non tubeless version.
@@klein-conceptcoming from latex the TPU really aren't bad on air loss, I guess I'm also used to just checking pressure before each ride. Latex was under 24 hours and needing air TPU are fine even after some days
@@Jeromin sounds like a pretty safe way to go hearing all the great feedback on TPU
You probably have a tiny tiny puncture. My TPU ridenow tubes stay at 80 PSI for weeks.
@@sam8m8 I mean they do not go flat. After about a week they go from 90 PSI to about 70-75 PSI. If I had a puncture they would have gone down to next to nothing. I believe the valves are not the best and they do let air out albeit very slowly.
Nice. This bike must go like a rocket up hill.
If you put a proper rider on it i guess so. With me its a tiny bit slower 🫣
@@klein-concept im 92kg so i dont climb :D
@@abedfo88 that should not be holding you back. Just need a light climbing setup 🤜🤛
I have an OG-EVKIN carbon seatpost. I always torqued it to 2nm, but it gave a creak when i went over bumps, no damage on the seatpost though. Torquing it to 4nm completely solved the creak issue. I think you are probably good to go with that 4.3nm.
Love the OG Evkin stuff. Best price performance ratio 🤌.
Thanks for the info on your experience.
🤜🤛
Superglue for the loose carbon fiber strand✅
Kcnc Tiwire Titanium brake and shifter cables!
Great idea regarding superglue. Will have a look at the Kcnc parts. Thanks a lot 🫶
Hi if you use the Velox Tressostar bar tape, that will save quite a lot of mass. its under 20g cheers. m
@@mrwhiteshorts thanks a lot. Will give it a try🫶
If you are looking for a durable, relatively simple to maintain(all cable, manual), long lasting, durable and reasonable cheap steel-frame bike, don't aim
You have a point there. It is more of an experiment and so far i really love how it rides. So far only the seatpost is making some issues but i might swap it for a titanium one to get the durability upgrade.
TPU rocks. Rim brakes rock. I been using them fine. Rim brakes on road bikes is the way it should be.
Love both as well. So easy, so clean.
You should consider losening bolts with a screwdriver/hexwrench. Losening with a torque wrench will bring the calibration out of wack which is nothing you would want to happen when handling expensive flimsy carbon parts :) Unless you were using a ratchet wrench without torque function in this video. In that case I would say go on.
Also: RideNow 36g are fine to ride with rimbrakes (I use them myself). Word on the street is, the 24g version tends to puncture quite often.
@@unpaidintern5331 thanks for letting me know. I was actually using my regular torque wrench. So might rethink how i handle that. But i assumed that while the torque to loosen is still within the range of the wrench it should be ok no?
@@klein-concept that kind of depends. losening your bolts with a torque wrench is comparable to pushing the torque wrench beyond the click. you're supposed to stop immediately after the click otherwise you are straining the mechanism. so doing the same thing backwards achieves the same thing. possible damage.
I would recommend not using it to losen at all because acutally there is no possible way to know a bolts tension. even a bolt tightened to 4NM can need way more than that to loosen especially if it sat for quite a while and was used to ride outdoors. for small bolts just get a nice set of hex and torx wrenches like wera is making. the higher the quality of your hex/torx the less likely you are of rounding bolts.
for BBs and crankarm I use an extendable breaker bar to apply some serious force. topeak makes one for a reasonable price.
regarding "within the range" I would assume that it works, but, given how a torque wrench works, only as long as you set it to the maximum torque or way beyond what you are expecting that the bolt is torqued to. but as I said, there is no way to know a bolts resulting clamping force except with the use of a dynamometer that measures such a thing.
bonus content: applying grease to a bolt increases the resulting clamping force. let's say you torque a well greased bolt with 4NM of torque, the resulting force can be that of a bolt that is torqued to 7NM. but again. there is no way of knowing without a dyno. so be careful out there^^ this emphasises how dangerous it can be not to use a torque wrench. "good and tight" is not enough.
Jedes gesparte Gram ist es immer wert ;)
Hehe sehe ich genau so. Denke tubeless muss als nächstes für TPU platz machen.
Hi Michael, I wasn't able to see what compression plug you're currently using but maybe there are some grams to be saved there. The Tune Xpanda weighs only 7 grams (without the top cap) 😮. Love your builds!
Thanks a lot. I think i might be using a generic one so not lightweight. Will have a look at the Xpanda one. Problem is that i need one for a 1 inch stem.
A built list with weights would be nice! I have my colnago tecnos (steel fork, old threaded headset and ahead adapter!) at 8,5kg without too much tweaking. I would love to go to 7kg but without too much exotic carbon.
Unfortunately i never weight everything the first time i put the bike together. Next time i will get the frame repainted, i will definitely weigh every component.
For this video here a quick summary of the weights.
Stem 104.8 > 81.2 = 23.6
Upfront mount 32.6 > 18.0 = 14.6
Seatpost Clamp 22.6 > 4.0 = 18.6
Top cap 17.5 > 6.0 > 11.5
Saddle 165.5 > 84.1 = 81.4g
149.7g saving.
Your Conlago sounds like an amazing bike. If you want to tweak the weight and are looking for some bigger savings first, i would recommend to first look at the fork (i m using the Columbus Minimal 1 inch one), the Saddle (it is actually more comfortable than it looks) and maybe have a look if there could be a bigger saving in your wheelset.
🤜🤛
I might be wrong, but I don't think you really need to keep the stem cap on at all.
Hehe you might be right. In theory once compressed the stem bolts should be holding everything in place. Might be a bit too much for me tho 😂😂😂
I have not had problems with TPU tubes on rim brake wheels. About 5k with 25c tyres. Hilly where I live, but 25C max and it rains a lot.
Amazing. Will give TPU a try 🤜🤛
Looks so cool ❤🔥
Thanks a lot 🫶
The person that told you to hold the handle of the torque wrench is 100% correct. There is a right place to hold it. When torquing multiple clamp bolts "steering stem" you want to tighten evenly and then when one has reached the set torque, go to the next and when that one reaches the set torque, go back to the first one again. Go back and forth until they both click in your case with just the slightest of effort. Don't click one then the next and call it done, this is wrong. Not sure by the Video but looked like it. It appears as if you need to chamfer the sharp edges of you seat tube. Classic sharp edges digging into the seat post, under tightening the clamp could also cause movement that shouldn't be there. Torquing something not enough can be bad too. I would suggest you stop torquing on the low side. Put your fears aside and split the spec. I have been using CYCLAMI TPU tubes for well over 2000Mi /3200Km and no issues other than I kick myself for not trying them sooner. They have been fantastic in every way. Anyone that tells you heat is an issue is just fear mongering. Not a thing... Cyclami tubes have the more robust metal valve and not flimsy plastic like the others.
Previous setup:
Butyl tube for 25mm tires
74 grams
11.00 USD/ 10.32 EURO
New setup:
CYCLAMI TPU
36 grams
8.50 USD / 7.98EURO
Thanks Larry. This comment is packed with so much knowledge. Really appreciate it.
I actually do check all the bots again until they all click at the right torque. So i do the 2nd and 3rd run on all of them. I just edited a lot of it out as otherwise the video would easily be 5 min longer 🫣
@@klein-concept Thanks for these great YT videos, really appreciate you sharing your journey. Good Luck!
@@larrymcgoldrick3471 thanks so much for the support 🫶
Ive been running the ride now tubes on my rim brake supersix all summer, haven't had a single puncture or issue. I will say I live in a very flat area so not loads of heavy braking!
Thanks a lot mate. I will give them a try this week 🤜🤛
using the ride now TPU tubes on my rear, 500kms. in with some 3-4km long steep 10-20% descents on carbon rims and they're good. i got a tubeless front tire so take it with a grain of salt.
Thats interesting. What was the reason for you to have a different setup for front and rear? 🤔
@@klein-concept way too messy for a rear tire puncture, too much nooks and crannies for the squirting sealant to get into like the FD, seat clamp, and the whole seat tube, taking off the rear tire to clean off the dried sealant is too much hassle as I also need to re-tune the gears apart from cleaning, especially on a qr bike.. I got an endurance bike so the frame's rear triangle is supple/comfy enough to take a rear tire that is 20 psi higher with tubes. i still use tubeless up front because it's easier to clean in case and there is no supple triangle to dampen vibrations so the comfort gains are worth it. BUT for events like audax/sportives, i'll still go full tubeless f/r, that's the ONLY time that the gains will outweigh the mess.
Thats makes sense. Good reason to keep the front tubeless. 🤜🤛
Well considering it is a risk going on the bike never mind racing it. I had my share of risky rides. I used to ride daccordi frames in my racedays.
I dont race in general. Just a casual weekend rider with some bike vacations without being competitive. But i agree. This is definitely not a setup to take a beating 🫣
Im so glad that my Caad 12 with cheap Chinese 1.5kg alu wheelset, lightweight 11-32 cassette and rest shimano 105 stock parts weights ~6.5 kg, no need for such expensive parts) just a light frame to begin with)
Because Caad frames just rule. Sounds like an amazing setup.
What wheelset are you running?
@@FarzGFX i m riding the Drive 50V wheels.
One tip is not to dispose of the old cable outers yet, so you could use them as a guide to trim the new outers to length without having to go through the whole measuring process again!
PS. This is assuming your initial cable outers were an appropriate length in the first place.
That is a great idea. Would have made the whole thing a bit smoother. Thanks a lot. Will remember it for the next recabeling 🤜🤛
I notice your falconer helmet is quite heavy, The Abus Game changer is listed at 30 grams lighter, a true weight weenie considers every gram wether on the bike,your clothing or your tools. A friend of mine rides around with a heavy lock permanently attached to her frame, and i have never seen her use it!
That is going to be the next stop. Once i optimized the bike i will look at clothes and maybe leaving some bonus 🍕 out of my week 🫣
TPU tubes always failed at the base of the valve stem for me. It's good for about a 1000 miles and all of a sudden lose all pressure. I also prefer the ride feel of butyl and latex over tpu.
Thanks for the hint. Any particular brand that you have been using for TPU? I didnt try latex yet. Will maybe give it a try thru winter.
@@klein-concept RideNow for the most part and I've recently tried the green tpu tubes with the threaded valve stem but eventually suffered the same fate. I've given up on the longevity of the tubes and treat it as a perishable go fast gadget. but I also hate changing tubes on a ride...
Crankwise: SRAM Red hiddenbold 5-arm with extralite chainrings.
Oh thanks for the tip. Guess that will still be compatible with the rest of the Shimano drivetrain?
@@klein-concept yes its compatible. I assume you need the gxp version
Thank you 🤜🤛
Imagine the weight savings if dyneema brake cables were a thing.
That would be magic 🤤🤤🤤
Timecode 21:46, wenn die Zunge draußen ist, ist das ein Zeichen, das die Arbeit mit voller Hingabe erledigt wird 🙏.
Hahahahahhaha stimmt 😝
Most is pinarellos in-house component brand but this has probably already been mentioned in the comments
Thanks a lot. Yes i know about that and explains why that bartape feels pretty high quality. 🤜🤛
Try helicopter tape on carbon clamping areas adds extra grip with less torque
Great tip. Thanks a lot. 🤜🤛
What are the references of both computer mount: AFTER and BEFORE please? sick set-up and video!
Thank you. What do you mean with references?
brands and models please :)@@klein-concept
The first one was a Carbon Works Master Mount which has been replaced by a Aplinist Stelvio mount. 🤜🤛
All these super light components tend to crack and make noises. I don’t trust carbon handle bars and stems on solid bikes where forces are extremely high.
That might be true to some degree but at least the handlebar was solid so far with no big flex and no noises. Only the seatpost was a bit of an issue but i think it rather had to do with the way a steel bike is clamping it. Darimo made a free modification to it so lets see how it will work over time.
i'm using ride now tpu on my rim brake bike. seems to be fine. i've logged 1000 kms already.
Happy to hear that. Are you riding the 36g or 24g ones?
@@klein-concept first version which is the 36g. been descending like crazy on carbon rims and titanium skewers😊
Like crazy 🤌. Love it.
I ride rim brakes with those aliexpress tpu tubes no problem at all
One of my first ones is now loosing air. Guess that is ok at that pricepoint. Will also give me the opportunity to try out the patches.
Sram Red is the key for save weight 😁
You think its going to be significantly lighter than the Dura Ace setup? If so i will start looking for a set 🫣
@@klein-concept Absolutely bro. I'm also in process building my weight weenies, it's been almost 3 years :D. I've used shimano, but for lightweight nothing can beat sram red 22. I believe you can get around 6.4kg if you switch to sram red
@@EryPrihananto what. That would be amazing. Going to scout one. Thanks a lot for the tip 🫶
swap to extralite chainring maybe?
Good idea. Was also thinking about it but now bought a Cybrei set. Think that will safe another 200g.
Ist es nicht schlecht für die Mechanik des Drehmomentschlüssels damit Schrauben zu lösen? Dachte immer man darf nur festziehen 🤔
Rad gefällt mir sehr sehr gut, super clean und mega interessant
LG
Nicht dass ich wüsste aber guter punkt. Ich versuche mich mal schlau zu machen.
Danke 🤜🤛
Something doesn't add up. You saved like 81 grams on the saddle, 18 on the seat clamp, 13 on the stem and 15 grams on the computer mount. Are you sure the rest you swapped in is not actually heavier? 7,020 to 6,925 is not it :)
It must have been from the tire sealant that i filled up a week before. Will see how it looks when i switch to TPU inner tubes.
Liked the video very much, would have liked a written down weight comparison to show difference. Was it above 450 grams? That would be 1 lb in the US, and I would consider that a nice gain in weight savings.
Thanks a lot. 🫶 Let me add the savings here:
Stem 104.8 > 81.2 = 23.6
Upfront mount 32.6 > 18.0 = 14.6
Seatpost Clamp 22.6 > 4.0 = 18.6
Top cap 17.5 > 6.0 > 11.5
Saddle 165.5 > 84.1 = 81.4g
149.7g saved (without weighing outer cable housing)
But as said i upped the tubeless sealant before so that added some weight back into the system.
@@klein-concept Thank you!
wer Bremst verliert, gilt wohl nicht nur für Tubolitos.
On the Eurobike there was one Retailer with a new Tpu tube less than 18gr each.
Haha so ist es. 🫣 na die TPUs suche ich mal für mein disc rad 🤩
How much money did the work of art cost you?
I dont know if i can put the number here and risk that my girlfriend will read this at some point 😂😂
If you want steel feeling bike but lighter go for titanium.
I have it on my list. Any particular frame that you would recommend?
Mega gut Respekt! Deine Videos inspirieren mich jedes mal aufs neue auch mein Bike zu modifizieren :) Danke!
Der Carbon Sattel sieht sehr cool aus vor allem mega leicht. Kannst du den Sattel empfehlen für längere Touren (>150km) oder ist der Sattel wie ein Brett? :)
Danke dir. Freut mich sehr.
Bisher bin ich den sattel nur 30km am stück gefahren. In gepolsterten bib shorts eigentlich ganz entspannt. Ohne polster eher brett 😂😂
@@klein-concept Danke dir 😃
2 Nm on stem seems fishy.. like, it's ok not to tight them too much, but how confident will you be applying force when climbing out of saddle, or, especially, when sprinting..
Bike looks superb, nonetheless.
Thanks a lot. Yes thats what i thought as well. Will give it some proper testruns before hitting proper climbs.
Nice to get into the 6s!! I can't recall which wheels you are running, elite drives maybe? You could save some grams by upgrading these, expensive though! As you said, chainset you could probablt shift some weight, zrace etra light cassette as well.
Yes it is the Drive 50V which already is pretty light i thought. Do you have any other wheelset recommendation?
Probably try Deerobust wheels, you can get to 950-1050g for a reasonable price (less than DRIVE)
Love it. Thank you 🪄🪄🪄
Spent quite a bit of money on parts that are extremely fragile for ~100g savings. I don't know about that. Ive got my steel 1998 Lemond Zurich down to ~6.9kg for much less cost. The parts are not as fragile either. I would look into a different wheels to save the most weight.
I know 🫣. I went down that rabbit hole a bit. Is there a particular wheelset you would recommend?
With retromods there isn’t such thing as if is worth it. A new set of tyres are more expensive than an old steel bike. It is the experience that you get, a certain satisfaction. Saying that…i need to check my early ‘80 Puch Clubman….brb after i splash some money🤣
😂😂 very well said.
can we get somehow the cad files of this frame? i rly like this geometry thx m8
@@vladvrinceanu5430 have a look at the Daccordi site or reach out to them and ask for the 2000 Profidea geometry details. 🤜🤛
Are you still happy with the DJI Action 2?
Hehe yes still loving it. Was thinking about the Action 4 for a moment but nothing beats the formfactor of the Action 2 at the moment.
Die TPU Schläuche ersparen fast 200 gr rotierende Masse,und ich hatte das Gefühl mein Titanium rim brake bike beschleunigt schneller! 🤙 Gruss aus Hamburg
Danke dir. Grüsse zurück aus Berlin. Was für einen Titan Rahmen fährst du denn?
Great video als always!
Was that Supacaz bartape the one that you got from Aliexpress or the original/ genuine tape?
Thanks a lot 🫶. This one is the original tape.
Do these extra light parts that require minimal torque creak a lot?
Good question. I finished the build yesterday and didnt take it out yet. Will keep this channel posted 🤜🤛
@@klein-concept I'm a bit of a weight weenie myself but creaks make me go crazy :)
@@AdamWilkoszarskifully agreed. It needs to be a silent setup.
Do you know a tick to mont a modern fork on a vintage bike ? the tube ends in a cone on the modern fork but it's the same diameter .
I only know the Columbus Minimal fork as a modern carbon fork that fits most retro frames. 🤜🤛
@@klein-concept Merci
What is that mount? I've not seen it before. I was going to get the Silica one, but I think I actually like that one better. Great job on the build too. I know the owner of a bike shop who rides a steel frame road bike. His is insanely light too. It is shocking when you pick it up knowing it is a steel frame. And he rides a 56, so it isn't like it is a 48 or a tiny frame either.
It is the Stelvio mount from a company called Alpitude.
Thanks a lot. Glad you like it. Hope it sparked a bit of interest in a steel bike 🫶
how much weight did you reduce after using jagwire elite links?
I didnt weigh that update only but i assume something around 10-20g.
Hate to break it to you but I don't think you'll be able to run that Darimo seatpost in a steel frame.
A steel framebuilder warns against using carbon seatposts in steel frames for the very reason you show. The frame compresses into the carbon causing the seatpost to fail.
Maybe Darimo says steel frames are ok to use with their seatposts and I hope you're able to make it work.
Just passing along what I was told concerning carbon and steel. Great build and I really enjoy your content.
Thanks for the insight. Darimo suggested to send it in to them again for another fix. Lets see if that will work.
Another option would be to use the seatpost on another modern steel bike which has a shim in there which i could turn around so that the opening is not in the rear but in the front. I would hope that this would help a bit as there should not be so much pressure on it in that direction.
Glad you re enjoying the videos 🤜🤛
What a shame that the person who told you how to hold the torque wrench didn't hell you that using it to undo bolts will mess withe the calibration. So, yeah.
As far as i know only undoing bolts which would exceed the maximum torque range of the wrench could mess with its calibration. As my wrench has a range up to 20Nm i would think that undoing a 5Nm bolt should be no problem? A quick google just confirmed this as well.
So i guess it should be fine no? 🤔
@@klein-concept Sure, good luck.
i love it
🫶
What tires are you running? Maybe there could be some weight saving too, if you swap to non tubeless clinchers.
I m running non tubeless GP5000 in 28mm at the moment. Heard the P Zero might be a bit lighter.
racework carbon crankset maybe?
Have you tried that one? Looking for some reviews.
Interested in the MOST bar tape, how does it feel to the touch? Happy with it?
It actually feels really good. Way better than I would have expected from a product that call itself Extralight.
Interesting
🤜🤛
What kind of mounting stand is it that you are using in the video? Looks very comfy to work on.
I borrowed it from a friend of mine. Its from Red Cycling Products.
y doesn't look nice but put seatpost clamp with pinch bolt opposite from the slot in seat tube.. i just noticed same comment by YellowKneedMoose
Yes thank you. Thats how i mounted it now. Lets see how it looks like after a couple of rides 🤜🤛
i bought tpu inner tubes on amazon for just 10€ and had no issues on my rim brake bike so far. they ride amating. btw what front light do u use because the light mount seems quite high quality? Great video by the way!
I already switched to TPU now after all the great recommendations i have gotten here in the comments. So thanks a lot for confirming it with your experience.
Which light mount do you mean? As there is no light in this video? Or do you mean the bike computer mount which also has the action cam mount underneath? That would be the Stelvio Mount from Alplitude.
@@klein-conceptThanks a lot! I thought it was a mounting option for a front light, but thank you for telling that this is for an action cam.
@@JOKER-rz7op but you can also mount a light there. I was using the bontrager ion 200 lights a lot.
@@klein-conceptOk, thanks for the recommendation. It would fit quite well on my bike as it is a Trek Madone and already has a garmin mount with gopro adapter on it
@@JOKER-rz7op uh lovely bike 🤩
This much money in parts but no silicon extreme tape? Do you hate yourself?
/s but, for real, get some. Do your bars and yourself a favor
@@RyanWilliams-xf3sc hehe what is it? I just see some repair tape when i google it 😂😂
Are you using a torque wrench to loosen bolts?
I often use it but not because of the torque feature but because it has this ratchet system that makes it easy to unscrew bolts easily.
hii. what its your opinion about that ee brakes?, they power are similar to a shimano 105?
Didnt try the 105 brakes but only the ultegra or da ones. But in general i think the shimano brakes will perform better but at the cost of weight. The ee ones still brake well enough. Was riding these on long descents on Mallorca without problems.
@@klein-concept thanks, i have ultegra and 105 brakes and its the same, but my 105 brakes more, but im sure its bc the brake zone of the wheels i have the 105 brake are better.
That's see is hell dawn by literally a string.
😂😂😂 so true
schönes Bike. Kannst du mir sagen welcher Lack verwendet wurde?
Danke dir. Das kan ich dir leider nicht sagen. Hab den lackierer nur nach schwarz gefragt. 🫣
@@klein-concept Achso, ist das nur schwarz? In manchen Einstellungen sieht es so aus als wenn da noch so'n Glitzanteil drin in
@@karlsson-i5o das hier ist nur schwarz. Hab aber noch ein anderes stahl rad in den anderen videos. Das ist dann eher grau mit recht viel glitzer. Meinst du das?
@@klein-concept sorry, dann habe ich das verwechselt. Dann muss es das sein :-) 😉
Hatte mal eine farbe gefunden die Silver Chameleon heisst. Aber weiss nicht ob die genau die benutzt haben.
Wonder if you are going to end the video by telling us that you ride with a 9 kg pack.
😂😂
Hola, interesante video, tengo una pregunta con respecto a la potencia, ¿ Sera suficiente 1.9 Newton/metro, no se rotara cuando se cojan baches? Con respecto a la tija, yo le daría con un limatón a la zona del cuadro que marcha la tija, no mucho, lo suficiente para quitar los filos que marcan la tija.
Thank you. I will update once i went out for a couple rides if 1.9 or 2Nm was enough.
Also good tip with rounding off the edges. I already did with some sandpaper before mounting the stem but maybe i need to work off a bit more material.
🤜🤛
what brand are the brakes?
Cane Creek 🤜🤛
that seat post clamp style is sketchy af
Hahahahaha thats what i though. Lets see if it will last. For that price i hope for it to be solid.
Are your eyelids ok?
Hahahahahahaha why?
These New parts are for sure NOT worth the rebuilt!
I guess its in the eye of the beholder. For me personally i m still very happy i made these upgrades. 🫶
@@klein-concept Certainly you are! In the eye of a commenter there is a danger in these superlight-parts (especially carbonparts), that do not match the philosophy of Steel well. My personal maximum is the Carbonfork.
@@gunnarkoss9262 that is a valid point. I m keeping a close eye on these components to see how they will last over time and if any imperfections will show up.
My pego is 6.7kg
Love it 🤩. How did you do it?
@@klein-concept pegoretti responsorium frame xcr columbus steel, campy mechanical super record rim brake, deda carbon seat post and carbon handle bars, campy Bora 33 WTO, fizik saddle.
Magical combo. Congrats on this amazing build 🫶
@@klein-concept thank you!
вынос UNO, руль RXL.
I can't tell if this is a joke video or not...
It might remain a mystery forever 🫣
😮💨@@klein-concept