I'm a mechanic as well, but I'm always looking for a professional to guide me on job's I am not so familiar... That's where you have helped! You are very well spoken and understood. I'm impressed with your teaching style! You are easy to follow and the videos, perfect match. All said, I will have to rate you, with a Five Star... Out of a 5-Star! Keep up the good work.
Hi just wanted to stop by and say Thank You so much. I was having intermittent issues with my cruise control and I ran across your video and did exactly what you said and $27.00 and 30 minutes later my cruise control was working perfectly. Thanks again for your knowledge and helpful video
Was having this problem in my 2003 Mercury Mountaineer 4.0l v6 AWD cruise would work sometimes, then not at all. Went through your steps of checking the continuity and voila, switch on brake master cylinder DOA. Looked like original one, pretty cruddy looking. Replaced with a carquest/BWD from advance auto. Works like a champ now. Have used several videos of yours to diagnose problems in this truck. I just bought it used, so working the bugs out still. Anyhow thanks for all you do to educate us DIYers out here. It is much appreciated to save us some money.
Thanks for putting together the video. I made up a test harness after watching it, and the deactivation switch was OL all the time. Replaced 0.00 and OL with brakes-Cruise works perfect. Thanks again for putting together the great video.
Just did this replacement on a 2000 Excursion V-10 and I worked great. My symptoms were no cruise functions and no cruise light on the dash. After the change all cruise functions were restored but still no light. I can live without the light. Thank you for posting this video.
Another possibility for an inoperative cruise control system on some Ford trucks with a manual transmission is a bad clutch pedal position switch. Many thanks for this video :)
Can't thank you enough for all your good honest fair straightforward hard work & all your videos to help all of us Diyers out there 🔧👨🔧👌🏼💯💪🏼 Keep it up! You're the best Ford repair tech on UA-cam, bar none!
Thanks for the video! We just bought our son a 2002 Mazda B3000 and found that the cruise control is inoperative. Using your video, I was able to troubleshoot it by ohming out the sensor, which was open at all times. Part's on order and will be installed asap. Thanks again!
Thanks! The brake switch was an open circuit when I tested it,, and a new switch fixed my cruise control. Power Ford in Albuquerque had told me that it was "probably" an ABS module problem, and wanted $850 to order the part and replace it. They still charged me $160 "restocking fee" after I told them that it wasn't the problem. Grrrr.
Saved me buying a steering wheel switch. Had no idea this switch even tied into the Cruise, makes sense when you explain it. Funny thing is, I just hooked Forscan up and found a stored code for brake switch and had my wife verify the brake lights were coming on. I was a little befuddled about the code until seeing this video, now it makes sense. No cruise and a code for a brake switch, bought the new cutout without even testing continuity. Thanks!
Wow, came upon your video while looking for something else but after viewing this video I now realised someone had installed the wrong master brake cylinder installed on my Super duty truck using a master w/o this sensor on it. Had just ordered and received a new master but with 3 ports on it yet no one including Cardone manufacturing knew what the third opening was for! Now I'll need to get the sensor and put my truck back to what it should have been from the start. THANK YOU So much sir!
This video is most appreciated! I was able to replace this de activator switch on my Ford E350, and now my Cruise Control works every single time. It was a cheap easy fix. I had had this looked at some time ago where the mechanic pulled out the switches on my steering wheel and blew them out with compressed air and this did not correct the problem. After watching this video I took the chance on replacing this switch as I also came to learn that my Cruise Control issue could also be the mechanism in the steering column that might need replacing.
I can see by the extended harness and Ford stickers onto a new switch portal on the front of my master cylinder, that this must've been the recall done to this 98 Explorer of mine back in '07 (confirmed with selling dealer to old owner). My light started flashing on the dash last night and I noticed the cruise control also had stopped working. Since I hardly use it anyway, I just pulled the fuse (#10....3rd row down from top, 2nd from left on inside panel by driver door). That stopped the light and I'm good to go. Brake lights, everything still work fine. I'm good! Thanks for your video. Gave me confidence to shut that light up without an expensive trip to a mechanic!
Thanks for the video post. I have owned my 2006 E250 for 2 years. Even though this video is 10 years old, it is still very relevant. I replaced this switch without any other diagnosis, and it didn't solve the problem. My mistake was that I didn't take the first step of checking the fuse first. The fuse was blown and replacing it solved the problem. Always remember the basic first steps. Luckily my mistake only cost me the low price of the switch.
Thanks for the video! fixed my 99 ranger in about 5 minutes of wrench time. It seriously took me longer to go get the part. Couldn't solve this frustrating problem until I found your video. saved me time and money , Thanks!
This is why I subscribe! NAPA had it in stock CCS1, Cruise control release switch, $20.09 Plus tax. My cruise was totally in active with no life at all on the dash. Remember, it is two different size wrenches standard to take the old one off, and put the new one on.
2005 Ford Freestar. I pulled the wire loose put a jumper in the connector. Got on the road. After months of not working, it now works perfectly. Ordered new brake fluid pressure switch. Thanks a lot. I expected to have to push "off" to turn off cruise, not so. It turned off when brake was pressed just like normal.
Just make sure you don't leave the jumper in after performing the test. With the jumper in place the cruise control will not disengage when the brake is applied. You'll need to press OFF to get out of cruise control mode (with the jumper in place).
Man, So glad I found this video. Have an '02 Ranger that the cruise would work intermittently. Had a trip coming up (900 miles) that I was dreading. Replaced this part, and cruise worked the whole time. Thank you!
Well a big thank you for this video. I now have cruise on my 2000 f-250 super duty. Going to make pulling my camper a lot easier.Just want to add that you have to replace the the harness with that has the two fuses and not just the switch itself. Worked from what I hear the 1st time in years. Thanks again.
Thanks! This fixed the cruise control in my E-150. Garage wanted $800+ to replace the cruise control servo, when all it needed was a $25 part and 10 minutes of my time.
thanks for the video. Got me going the right direction. Ordered part of amazon as local shop did not have one with the correct connection. I think it was $25.00. Was able to still use the installed fuse line placed on the truck from the recall. Only took 5 minutes to change and now there is cruise. Thanks so much. Saved me a bunch of $$$$$. 2000 f250 V10 crewcab.
Thank you for the video. I had the same issue and it was resolved by replacing this switch. Found the right replacement switch at Amazon as you recommended.
I had an intermittent issue with my cruise control on my 2010 F350. I changed the front switch (code reader read switch b I believe?) on the bottom of the master cylinder called the cruise control switch Part number CCS12 from Lordco in Canada. Part costed about 40.00 compared to the one I was quoted on from the Ford dealer for 450.00. When I changed it out hardly any fluid came out of the master cylinder and I had it changed out in about 10 min. Cruise control has worked ever time ever since I changed it out and its been a few weeks now. Thanks for this video and I hope my info helps some else out.
Thanks so much for the video I just replaced mine hoping it was the issue and it was! I didn't bleed the brakes like you said but for others. You might want to know it will start spewing brake fluid when you take it off so be prepared with the new one to swap quick.
I would like to say thank you it fixed my 2000 Ford f150 four-wheel drive changing the switch fix both the cruise control and the four-wheel drive not engaging problem with one switch.
Hey, your not going to believe this, but here’s what happened. I had my cruise control go out the other day and went to look under the dash where my switch is, (2005 F150). I remembered someone had said something about their break pedal on a video and checked mine. That wasn’t my problem, but it got me thinking and I thought about checking my emergency break for some reason and pulled up on the release and low and behold it released a little, I must have hit my pedal at some point. Not enough to set the break, but about two clicks worth to trigger that switch. My cruise control went right back to working.. Who knew???
During the colder months of the year my cruise control doesn't work, but it works fine in the warmer months. This is on 2005 E350 5.4 gas. Thanx. Mike H Kindersley, sask.
I replaced this switch and it worked it for about 30 miles, then it started cutting off on me while I was driving. Turns out the plug that plugs into this switch was shorted out inside the plug itself. I tested both the old and new switches and both showed 0.00 ohms when I touched the leads to the terminals. So Neither one was stuck open. Which means my old switch was actually good the problem the whole time was the stupid plug. A way to test this is to get one of those blue automotive wire connectors that allow two wires to run side by side inside the plastic piece which holds a small flat metal piece that you squeeze into the blue plastic part with a pair of pliers. The metal piece cuts through the outside sheath of each wire and allows the copper part of the wire to slide up into a small notch in the metal tab for each wire essentially causing each wire to be connected to the other electrically. It accomplishes the same thing as if you were to just tie the two wires together but instead allows you to still keep the factory plug in tact just Incase that’s not the problem. So attach this piece to the two wires that are going into the plug for the cruise control cutout switch. Now, drive the truck and test to see if you have cruise. If so, you have a bad plug. I first tried sticking a U shaped piece of metal in the plug to see if that worked but it didn’t because the short was inside the plug itself so by using a jumper in that bad plug it still failed to operate. Now don’t be alarmed about trying this method. Your cruise will still disengage when you mash the brake as long as your fuse for your tail lights are not blown. Note, there is no fuse for the cruise control on a 2009 Ford F-250 with a Diesel engine. The cruise control cutout switch is really only a safety feature in the event that your brake light fuse is blown. Then it’s necessary to have this switch to cut off the cruise control in the event you mash the brake with a blown taillight fuse or two burned out tail lights. But unless you drive around with no brake lights then this isn’t even a necessary switch to even have. Now if you mash the brake and your brake lights don’t work, then you could have a different problem altogether. It’s either the fuse, bulbs, or the other pesky little switch located just behind this one on the master cylinder. The switch located closest to the fire wall on the master cylinder is the brake light switch. So make sure you have brake lights before jumping the two wires on the cruise control cut out switch. Ok one other thing to check, is your ABS light on, is your airbag light on or blinking, does your horn work? If any of these problems exist the problem is most likely your clock spring in the steering wheel. If all that’s fine then the only other thing it could be is the steering wheel switch’s or your speed sensor. Does the vehicle switch gears properly or is it shifting rough, these could be speed sensor problem. If you have a standard transmission, check your clutch switch. Now this last one is rare but it’s possible that the cruise could even be disabled in the computer. Is your check engine light on? Sometimes after going into limp mode your cruise control can be set to disabled in the computer. Hook up a diagnostics computer and check it. If so, turn it on. Well anyway, I’ve just about listed all possible problems a 2009 Ford F-250 with a 6.4L engine can have. Hope this helps anyone out there struggling to fix their cruise control problems.
When I installed LEDs in my brake lights my cruise control quit working in my 2002 Mustang. I replaced those LEDs with 4 T series Lasfit LEDs in my tail light section (2 in the outermost positions which are the brake lights) and that fixed my cruise control problem. The specific LEDs are the Lasfit T-3157R. The theory is that these "CANBUS Ready" LEDs have circuitry that pulls more current than the LED needs so that the cars electronics is fooled into believing it has the OEM halogen bulbs installed. I think this is a better solution than installing resistors. I hope this info will be helpful to others.
I am a huge fan, You are the only one I will listen to, But I have a 04 F-150 FX4 my cruise control doesn't work. Mine doesn't have that switch, I changed the steering wheel controls, it worked for a couple hours and now nothing. Thank you for your time and help...
Thank you F.T.M. I just replaced that switch and the wires on my 99 Ford Expedition. The instructions on the little blue tag that is attached to the original wires say to replace them with new ones. But luck, it still doesn't work. I'm going to do that continuity test. Thank you for that idea.
Easy fix for my 2002 F250- the location of the switch was different than the video but was able to locate and change the switch easily. Thank you for the video.
Just used this a reference on a 93 e350 body with a Shasta RV on the back. Nice unit, cruise doesn’t work. Going to test this switch as soon as I get to work, hopefully it’s the issue. Thanks!
Just FYI people if you're having other electrical issues it's going to be your gem and or fuse panel do to windshield leaking. Using the meter to test it will not correctly diagnose the issue
Thanks Bro, extremely helpful video, unplugged the sensor and check for corrosion and didn't find any, drove the truck and it works every now and then so finally a Month after first seeing this Video I went out and bought the correct switch for my truck and BAM it works great.If it wasn't for the author of this Video I would never had spent the $35, it saved me hundreds if I went to a shop.
I have a 2004 F150 FX4 and had the same problem with the cruise control not working or would work for a short span before kicking out. I found that my bake shift release switch was bad. To test if it was bad I was able to shift it into gear without touching my brake pedal. The switch can be replaced. I was able to replace the transistor inside the switch. Now my cruise works good.
I replaced this switch, but it did not help my 2001 Windstar. What do I do next? By the way, your video on how to do a Taurus heater core was awesome. I followed it to do mine. It made everything so easy. Thank you.
Wow, thank you very much. My 99 Windstar cruise hasn't worked for a year. Looking through AllDataPro with a code that said it was a speed sensor led me nowhere. I have no clue why I didn't pull a schematic or even do more online research to remedy this. I stumbled upon your video, jumped the socket leads (for troubleshooting purposes only) and sure enough, it's that switch. I even think there is a recall because my switch and connector are under the master cylinder. The recall fix adds a pigtail extender to get the connection away from possible brake fluid intrusion....will check with Ford before spending the $20 bucks....again, thanks!!!
I just like to add also check your brake switch because mine likes to stick and if it's stuck on the cruise control won't turn on so make sure that your brakes aren't stuck in the on position before trying to activate cruise control
Thanks the information. I plan to check this out. My brother has a 2002 ford escort zx2 that cruise control doesn't work. I checked all fuses, tested OK.
I personally have been extremely blessed because I have owned Fords from the 1960s to 2010 from cars to f150 f250 f350 to SUVs and have never experienced any sort of cruise control problems of any kind.
Sometimes they leak and short out, blowing the fuse. If you need to replace it check your fuses too. Happened on 2 different trucks I had. There was a recall on this bc some of them caught fire.
Replaced the switch, has the ford wiring update and still no cruise. Light doesn’t even come on the dash. All lights and brake lights work, and yes third brake also. Manual trans on a 95 Ranger 2.3. All fuses are good also.
Hi again, thanks for responding about my ford lariat. I don't have the code retrieval meter to pull codes. I was hoping for blown fuse or something. I will check for video on how to get to the steering wheel switches, maybe an ohm meter would determine a bad switch and get a part if needed. Thanks again
They actually don't even show us specs for the resistance anymore now that I check. Autozone will be able to pull codes for you, check for codes P0579 or P0581
Before my cruise control stopped working, I used to have to hit the brakes really hard really fast and I would feel a bump somewhere in the engine. Then I could activate. After I took it to a mechanic fir a computer issue, it hasn't worked since.
So my 2005 Ford Expedition should be a little different than the one pictured? My cruise control just died and I thought it was just the switch on the steering wheel. Should I replace both? You are a saving grace with my Expedition and I thank you.
That did it, thanks!! Am I wrong to be concerned about air in the brake lines? When installing new switch down onto fitting, there's got to be a bubble of air trapped inside, in the bottom cavity of switch housing. I wish I'd thought to first drip some brake fluid into the switch there, then install = bubble-free. Either way, everything seems to be workin' fine now!
I changed this pressure switch on my 2007 Ford F250 diesel. What is the other sensor sticking it of the master cylinder? If this is a redundant switch, can I replace it with the same sensor that is on the front of the master cylinder? Thank you for the videos FordTechMakuLoco. They have been a huge help.
I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 L and the cruise was difficult to turn on ( not off ) and while in cruise difficulty to increase speed when it did increase the speed would climb over 20 mph that I released the plus button so I ended the cruise setting by touching the brake pedal or off button ( decrease speed button useless ) . I replaced the cruise brake component on the master cylinder ( I did not reset the PCM ) and tested the cruise. There are improvements with the cruise control - it’s easier to activate the cruise and increase the cruise speed ( but it doesn’t engine brake going downhill to regulate preset speed it gains momentum and will continue to regulate speed only going uphill or on a level surface ( decreasing cruise speed still useless ) . 130,000 miles on vehicle . Would you please suggest a possible alternative ? P.S. - your channel is and has been helpful for me in the past. Thank you
I replaced this part to fix a brake leak on the master cylinder. Definitely didn’t need to bleed the master cylinder. Just unscrew it. 99 Ford Expedition.
My 2007 Five Hundred will come on but it will cut off. If you hit a bump sometimes it will shut off. And sometimes it just shuts off going down the road.
I replaced the switch and I now have my cruise back, however, I believe my MC is leaking brake fluid from this point, which is why the switch failed in the first place. I cleaned up all the fluid around the new part and connector. If it continues to leak, can I use some plumber's tape to seal the connection? Or will I have to replace my MC? Any suggestions? Thanks for the videos, you have been extremely helpful!!!
Hey Brother.... thank you. 1999 Ford F350. Cruise stopped working, nada, nothing. $26 bucks Oreilly Auto. 5 minutes and vola'.... cruise control. One note though... it did seem to be leaking too. Not sure what that meant, and I also had no continuity.
My 2012 Ford Edge cruise control only works when I click erase on my OBD II tool even though it shows no codes. Do you have any ideas why this may be happening? Shoud I replace the switch? It is standard cruise control and not adaptive.
Well, great video - I installed a new brake pressure switch and that wasn't the problem. I also checked the fuses and the brake light bulbs - all seem to be in working order. Any new ideas? Btw I went to the dealer and got a factory switch for $29, so I'm not out that much.
Two Things. First, in researching best I could, I cannot find a fuse that seems to relate to the cruise on my 1994 Explorer Eddie Buer. Second, I have the same issues trying to find the parts you are showing in your video. I am old, so please excuse me on this. Can't see things up close, or far away, lol. Anyhow, I one by one removed and checked every fuse and did not see anything out of the norm, so I was gonna replace these items but ran into another issue in the fact that AutoZone and Advanced have no idea what I am talking about. Taking my phone in to show them the video next week. Thanks for all your videos, they have been great, but this Explorer seems to be the exception to the norm.
You're probably sick of seeing these but: The dealership replaced the switch on my grandpa's '97 F150 but the cruise control doesn't work. Jumping the harness works though. Bad connection there? Bad switch or something wrong with the master cylinder?
Great video, I’ve replaced that switch twice both had the same reading. Both have continuity but when I hit the brake pedal it does change and still has continuity.. I’m lost tbh..
My 1995 Ranger Factory Wiring Diagram for the cruise control circuit shows the Cruise Deactivation Switch as normally open, and the "BOO" Brake On/Off switch as normally open. Is it possible that some of these are manufactured as normally open for older vehicles such as my 1995 model? Great video. Thanks
2001 f150, wasn't there a recall on something connected to the end of the master cylinder? Well when they replaced the connector, which was leaking brake fluid, on my truck the horn and the cruse control stopped working. They said that the leak fix wouldn't fix the cruise control. Also the horn works when setting the alarm so the horn is alive.
I drive a much older generation 96 F150 and this was my problem. The pins are so damn crowded I had to spend 20 minutes cleaning them just to get continuity while shorting them out for initial testing. but once I have covfermed the pins contacting to the DMM leads... O P E N
Man your awesome !!! I have saved so much money just by watching your videos! The problem i have with your videos is you make it look easy ! For example i changed the lower ball joint and upper arm,tie rod,front suspension. I used the hole weekend just for the left front side of the suv, and a other weekend for other side. Yeah it's a Ford expedition 1999. If someone would be looking for a reliable Ford what type and model would you recommend?
Hello! I did this fix to my truck 6 months ago and worked again, last week it stop working again so I replace switch with oem and still no cruise, any other places to look at? Thanks!
You can also do the McGuyver trick with a paper clip. Just unplug the harness and short out the connector. I got tired of replacing the switches so just bypassed it, been working fine ever since.
If this is what is wrong with my car (2006 ford taurus), about how much would it cost to fix it at a repair shop? I am definitely hoping this is what is wrong because it seems like a quick, cheap fix. Thanks!
When you buy the new sensor it doesn't come with the same plug that the car has. You need to make a connector out of what you have, or buy the adapter from Ford for a few dollars..
I have a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis. it often will not come on after driving down the road I have to hit the brakes and afterwards the cruise control doesn't want to work until several minutes have gone by.
I have a 2002 navigator. noticed this particular piece is leaking brake fluid. I've noticed the pig tail had been sliced before does the connector need to be replaced too? on the Amazon listing it does show a new connector. just wasn't sure.. good video
I'm diagnosing a 2007 E150, 4.6L van. The RED brake light stays lite up on the dash and will not go out. E brake switch is operating properly, I tested it. Master cylinder is full with fresh fluid. Brakes are functioning properly. Could the pressure sensor in the master cylinder be stuck OL and cause the light to stay on? I can't get any leads on the sensor to test it because it's hanging upside down like the one in this video. There is a float inside the reservoir but no electrical connection. I dont have a wiring diagram so is there anything else I am overlooking that could effect this circuit? BTW, master cyl switch connector has good power 12v on one wire when unplugged. Should the Ebrake switch also have 12v on one terminal because I am not getting any voltage on either wire? Thanks Brian
I'm a mechanic as well, but I'm always looking for a professional to guide me on job's I am not so familiar... That's where you have helped! You are very well spoken and understood. I'm impressed with your teaching style! You are easy to follow and the videos, perfect match. All said, I will have to rate you, with a Five Star... Out of a 5-Star! Keep up the good work.
Hi just wanted to stop by and say Thank You so much. I was having intermittent issues with my cruise control and I ran across your video and did exactly what you said and $27.00 and 30 minutes later my cruise control was working perfectly. Thanks again for your knowledge and helpful video
Nice!
Die brake fluid leak out when you remove the old one?
Was having this problem in my 2003 Mercury Mountaineer 4.0l v6 AWD cruise would work sometimes, then not at all. Went through your steps of checking the continuity and voila, switch on brake master cylinder DOA. Looked like original one, pretty cruddy looking. Replaced with a carquest/BWD from advance auto. Works like a champ now. Have used several videos of yours to diagnose problems in this truck. I just bought it used, so working the bugs out still. Anyhow thanks for all you do to educate us DIYers out here. It is much appreciated to save us some money.
heckmancs No problem!
Thanks for putting together the video. I made up a test harness after watching it, and the deactivation switch was OL all the time. Replaced 0.00 and OL with brakes-Cruise works perfect. Thanks again for putting together the great video.
Robert vanhouten Awesome!
Just did this replacement on a 2000 Excursion V-10 and I worked great. My symptoms were no cruise functions and no cruise light on the dash. After the change all cruise functions were restored but still no light. I can live without the light. Thank you for posting this video.
Another possibility for an inoperative cruise control system on some Ford trucks with a manual transmission is a bad clutch pedal position switch. Many thanks for this video :)
thank you for your comment it seems that when I bypassed my clutch switch. Haven't had cruise since... I'll try again.
Droppin' bombs over here
Thank you. I changed my pressure switch and now my cruise control works properly again.
Can't thank you enough for all your good honest fair straightforward hard work & all your videos to help all of us Diyers out there 🔧👨🔧👌🏼💯💪🏼 Keep it up! You're the best Ford repair tech on UA-cam, bar none!
Thanks for the video! We just bought our son a 2002 Mazda B3000 and found that the cruise control is inoperative. Using your video, I was able to troubleshoot it by ohming out the sensor, which was open at all times. Part's on order and will be installed asap. Thanks again!
Thanks! The brake switch was an open circuit when I tested it,, and a new switch fixed my cruise control. Power Ford in Albuquerque had told me that it was "probably" an ABS module problem, and wanted $850 to order the part and replace it. They still charged me $160 "restocking fee" after I told them that it wasn't the problem. Grrrr.
believe it or not, both third brake light bulbs were out. replaced them and cruise is back working!
Both switches test good, the one on the pedal and the one on the master cylinder. Still no cruise. What next please?
Thanks for this video. Just replaced the switch on my Excursion and now I have fully functioning cruise control!
Saved me buying a steering wheel switch. Had no idea this switch even tied into the Cruise, makes sense when you explain it. Funny thing is, I just hooked Forscan up and found a stored code for brake switch and had my wife verify the brake lights were coming on. I was a little befuddled about the code until seeing this video, now it makes sense. No cruise and a code for a brake switch, bought the new cutout without even testing continuity. Thanks!
Wow, came upon your video while looking for something else but after viewing this video I now realised someone had installed the wrong master brake cylinder installed on my Super duty truck using a master w/o this sensor on it. Had just ordered and received a new master but with 3 ports on it yet no one including Cardone manufacturing knew what the third opening was for! Now I'll need to get the sensor and put my truck back to what it should have been from the start. THANK YOU So much sir!
This video is most appreciated! I was able to replace this de activator switch on my Ford E350, and now my Cruise Control works every single time. It was a cheap easy fix. I had had this looked at some time ago where the mechanic pulled out the switches on my steering wheel and blew them out with compressed air and this did not correct the problem. After watching this video I took the chance on replacing this switch as I also came to learn that my Cruise Control issue could also be the mechanism in the steering column that might need replacing.
Thank you for this video! I just made this repair on my E-150. My cruise now functions again. Took me 10 minutes
I can see by the extended harness and Ford stickers onto a new switch portal on the front of my master cylinder, that this must've been the recall done to this 98 Explorer of mine back in '07 (confirmed with selling dealer to old owner). My light started flashing on the dash last night and I noticed the cruise control also had stopped working. Since I hardly use it anyway, I just pulled the fuse (#10....3rd row down from top, 2nd from left on inside panel by driver door). That stopped the light and I'm good to go. Brake lights, everything still work fine. I'm good! Thanks for your video. Gave me confidence to shut that light up without an expensive trip to a mechanic!
Thanks for the video post. I have owned my 2006 E250 for 2 years. Even though this video is 10 years old, it is still very relevant. I replaced this switch without any other diagnosis, and it didn't solve the problem. My mistake was that I didn't take the first step of checking the fuse first. The fuse was blown and replacing it solved the problem. Always remember the basic first steps. Luckily my mistake only cost me the low price of the switch.
Thanks for the video! fixed my 99 ranger in about 5 minutes of wrench time. It seriously took me longer to go get the part. Couldn't solve this frustrating problem until I found your video. saved me time and money , Thanks!
This is why I subscribe! NAPA had it in stock CCS1, Cruise control release switch, $20.09 Plus tax. My cruise was totally in active with no life at all on the dash. Remember, it is two different size wrenches standard to take the old one off, and put the new one on.
2005 Ford Freestar. I pulled the wire loose put a jumper in the connector. Got on the road. After months of not working, it now works perfectly. Ordered new brake fluid pressure switch. Thanks a lot. I expected to have to push "off" to turn off cruise, not so. It turned off when brake was pressed just like normal.
Just make sure you don't leave the jumper in after performing the test. With the jumper in place the cruise control will not disengage when the brake is applied. You'll need to press OFF to get out of cruise control mode (with the jumper in place).
Jim Frieday Read his last sentence. It still turns off with the primary foot pedal switch. This one is meant as a backup
Man, So glad I found this video. Have an '02 Ranger that the cruise would work intermittently. Had a trip coming up (900 miles) that I was dreading. Replaced this part, and cruise worked the whole time. Thank you!
Well a big thank you for this video. I now have cruise on my 2000 f-250 super duty. Going to make pulling my camper a lot easier.Just want to add that you have to replace the the harness with that has the two fuses and not just the switch itself. Worked from what I hear the 1st time in years. Thanks again.
Thanks! This fixed the cruise control in my E-150. Garage wanted $800+ to replace the cruise control servo, when all it needed was a $25 part and 10 minutes of my time.
When i have trouble with my ford i come to your channel Thank You Man 👍🏽
thanks for the video. Got me going the right direction. Ordered part of amazon as local shop did not have one with the correct connection. I think it was $25.00. Was able to still use the installed fuse line placed on the truck from the recall. Only took 5 minutes to change and now there is cruise. Thanks so much. Saved me a bunch of $$$$$. 2000 f250 V10 crewcab.
So helpful and that was exactly my problem. Thanks a lot man. Make one about the abs light and brake light coming on intermittently please.
Thank you for the video. I had the same issue and it was resolved by replacing this switch. Found the right replacement switch at Amazon as you recommended.
I had an intermittent issue with my cruise control on my 2010 F350. I changed the front switch (code reader read switch b I believe?) on the bottom of the master cylinder called the cruise control switch Part number CCS12 from Lordco in Canada. Part costed about 40.00 compared to the one I was quoted on from the Ford dealer for 450.00. When I changed it out hardly any fluid came out of the master cylinder and I had it changed out in about 10 min. Cruise control has worked ever time ever since I changed it out and its been a few weeks now. Thanks for this video and I hope my info helps some else out.
Thanks so much for the video I just replaced mine hoping it was the issue and it was! I didn't bleed the brakes like you said but for others. You might want to know it will start spewing brake fluid when you take it off so be prepared with the new one to swap quick.
I would like to say thank you it fixed my 2000 Ford f150 four-wheel drive changing the switch fix both the cruise control and the four-wheel drive not engaging problem with one switch.
Hey, your not going to believe this, but here’s what happened. I had my cruise control go out the other day and went to look under the dash where my switch is, (2005 F150). I remembered someone had said something about their break pedal on a video and checked mine. That wasn’t my problem, but it got me thinking and I thought about checking my emergency break for some reason and pulled up on the release and low and behold it released a little, I must have hit my pedal at some point. Not enough to set the break, but about two clicks worth to trigger that switch. My cruise control went right back to working.. Who knew???
During the colder months of the year my cruise control doesn't work, but it works fine in the warmer months.
This is on 2005 E350 5.4 gas.
Thanx.
Mike H
Kindersley, sask.
I replaced this switch and it worked it for about 30 miles, then it started cutting off on me while I was driving. Turns out the plug that plugs into this switch was shorted out inside the plug itself. I tested both the old and new switches and both showed 0.00 ohms when I touched the leads to the terminals. So Neither one was stuck open. Which means my old switch was actually good the problem the whole time was the stupid plug. A way to test this is to get one of those blue automotive wire connectors that allow two wires to run side by side inside the plastic piece which holds a small flat metal piece that you squeeze into the blue plastic part with a pair of pliers. The metal piece cuts through the outside sheath of each wire and allows the copper part of the wire to slide up into a small notch in the metal tab for each wire essentially causing each wire to be connected to the other electrically. It accomplishes the same thing as if you were to just tie the two wires together but instead allows you to still keep the factory plug in tact just Incase that’s not the problem. So attach this piece to the two wires that are going into the plug for the cruise control cutout switch. Now, drive the truck and test to see if you have cruise. If so, you have a bad plug. I first tried sticking a U shaped piece of metal in the plug to see if that worked but it didn’t because the short was inside the plug itself so by using a jumper in that bad plug it still failed to operate. Now don’t be alarmed about trying this method. Your cruise will still disengage when you mash the brake as long as your fuse for your tail lights are not blown. Note, there is no fuse for the cruise control on a 2009 Ford F-250 with a Diesel engine. The cruise control cutout switch is really only a safety feature in the event that your brake light fuse is blown. Then it’s necessary to have this switch to cut off the cruise control in the event you mash the brake with a blown taillight fuse or two burned out tail lights. But unless you drive around with no brake lights then this isn’t even a necessary switch to even have. Now if you mash the brake and your brake lights don’t work, then you could have a different problem altogether. It’s either the fuse, bulbs, or the other pesky little switch located just behind this one on the master cylinder. The switch located closest to the fire wall on the master cylinder is the brake light switch. So make sure you have brake lights before jumping the two wires on the cruise control cut out switch. Ok one other thing to check, is your ABS light on, is your airbag light on or blinking, does your horn work? If any of these problems exist the problem is most likely your clock spring in the steering wheel. If all that’s fine then the only other thing it could be is the steering wheel switch’s or your speed sensor. Does the vehicle switch gears properly or is it shifting rough, these could be speed sensor problem. If you have a standard transmission, check your clutch switch. Now this last one is rare but it’s possible that the cruise could even be disabled in the computer. Is your check engine light on? Sometimes after going into limp mode your cruise control can be set to disabled in the computer. Hook up a diagnostics computer and check it. If so, turn it on. Well anyway, I’ve just about listed all possible problems a 2009 Ford F-250 with a 6.4L engine can have. Hope this helps anyone out there struggling to fix their cruise control problems.
When I installed LEDs in my brake lights my cruise control quit working in my 2002 Mustang. I replaced those LEDs with 4 T series Lasfit LEDs in my tail light section (2 in the outermost positions which are the brake lights) and that fixed my cruise control problem. The specific LEDs are the Lasfit T-3157R. The theory is that these "CANBUS Ready" LEDs have circuitry that pulls more current than the LED needs so that the cars electronics is fooled into believing it has the OEM halogen bulbs installed. I think this is a better solution than installing resistors. I hope this info will be helpful to others.
I am a huge fan, You are the only one I will listen to, But I have a 04 F-150 FX4 my cruise control doesn't work. Mine doesn't have that switch, I changed the steering wheel controls, it worked for a couple hours and now nothing. Thank you for your time and help...
Thank you F.T.M. I just replaced that switch and the wires on my 99 Ford Expedition. The instructions on the little blue tag that is attached to the original wires say to replace them with new ones. But luck, it still doesn't work. I'm going to do that continuity test. Thank you for that idea.
Easy fix for my 2002 F250- the location of the switch was different than the video but was able to locate and change the switch easily. Thank you for the video.
i have a 2004 f150. where did you find your switch?
It was right on the master cylinder.
Just used this a reference on a 93 e350 body with a Shasta RV on the back. Nice unit, cruise doesn’t work. Going to test this switch as soon as I get to work, hopefully it’s the issue. Thanks!
Just FYI people if you're having other electrical issues it's going to be your gem and or fuse panel do to windshield leaking. Using the meter to test it will not correctly diagnose the issue
Thanks Bro, extremely helpful video, unplugged the sensor and check for corrosion and didn't find any, drove the truck and it works every now and then so finally a Month after first seeing this Video I went out and bought the correct switch for my truck and BAM it works great.If it wasn't for the author of this Video I would never had spent the $35, it saved me hundreds if I went to a shop.
I have a 2004 F150 FX4 and had the same problem with the cruise control not working or would work for a short span before kicking out. I found that my bake shift release switch was bad. To test if it was bad I was able to shift it into gear without touching my brake pedal. The switch can be replaced. I was able to replace the transistor inside the switch. Now my cruise works good.
I replaced this switch, but it did not help my 2001 Windstar. What do I do next? By the way, your video on how to do a Taurus heater core was awesome. I followed it to do mine. It made everything so easy. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I had Ford do the last one, but am going to try it myself this time. New one ordered from Amazon.
Wow, thank you very much. My 99 Windstar cruise hasn't worked for a year. Looking through AllDataPro with a code that said it was a speed sensor led me nowhere. I have no clue why I didn't pull a schematic or even do more online research to remedy this. I stumbled upon your video, jumped the socket leads (for troubleshooting purposes only) and sure enough, it's that switch. I even think there is a recall because my switch and connector are under the master cylinder. The recall fix adds a pigtail extender to get the connection away from possible brake fluid intrusion....will check with Ford before spending the $20 bucks....again, thanks!!!
Easiest repair ive ever done. Thanks. Your videos are amazing man.
Great explanation. Very easy to hear and understand. I hope this works for me. I will chime back in if this fixed my cruise.
Thank You Very Much! I fixed my problem in five minutes and it only cost me $60.00. 04/02/2021
I just like to add also check your brake switch because mine likes to stick and if it's stuck on the cruise control won't turn on so make sure that your brakes aren't stuck in the on position before trying to activate cruise control
Thanks the information. I plan to check this out. My brother has a 2002 ford escort zx2 that cruise control doesn't work. I checked all fuses, tested OK.
I personally have been extremely blessed because I have owned Fords from the 1960s to 2010 from cars to f150 f250 f350 to SUVs and have never experienced any sort of cruise control problems of any kind.
Sometimes they leak and short out, blowing the fuse. If you need to replace it check your fuses too. Happened on 2 different trucks I had. There was a recall on this bc some of them caught fire.
Sure enough, this was the problem on my 2000 Explorer..... thanks for posting.
Your vehicle is on that list for the faulty cruise control deactivation switch.
Replaced the switch, has the ford wiring update and still no cruise. Light doesn’t even come on the dash. All lights and brake lights work, and yes third brake also. Manual trans on a 95 Ranger 2.3. All fuses are good also.
Hi again, thanks for responding about my ford lariat. I don't have the code retrieval meter to pull codes. I was hoping for blown fuse or something. I will check for video on how to get to the steering wheel switches, maybe an ohm meter would determine a bad switch and get a part if needed.
Thanks again
They actually don't even show us specs for the resistance anymore now that I check. Autozone will be able to pull codes for you, check for codes P0579 or P0581
My cruise is out, Thanks for the info. this is a good place to start.
Thank you, fixed my 02 f250 in 5 minutes. Saved me $$$$
Before my cruise control stopped working, I used to have to hit the brakes really hard really fast and I would feel a bump somewhere in the engine. Then I could activate. After I took it to a mechanic fir a computer issue, it hasn't worked since.
Thank you, that is exactly what i have been looking for.
So my 2005 Ford Expedition should be a little different than the one pictured? My cruise control just died and I thought it was just the switch on the steering wheel. Should I replace both? You are a saving grace with my Expedition and I thank you.
I Just replaced my switch and it is working well now. Thanks for the help!Tom
That did it, thanks!! Am I wrong to be concerned about air in the brake lines? When installing new switch down onto fitting, there's got to be a bubble of air trapped inside, in the bottom cavity of switch housing. I wish I'd thought to first drip some brake fluid into the switch there, then install = bubble-free. Either way, everything seems to be workin' fine now!
Interesting, I actually have a code for it but I couldn't get a straight answer where it's located. Thanks for the video!
Great advice I checked out everything but these switches are hiding on the OBS Ford. Thanks a bunch.
This fixed my cruise on 1997 f150 great video
or the plastic throttle cable slipped off and you need to reconnect it and keep it secured🤷🏽♂️
I changed this pressure switch on my 2007 Ford F250 diesel. What is the other sensor sticking it of the master cylinder? If this is a redundant switch, can I replace it with the same sensor that is on the front of the master cylinder?
Thank you for the videos FordTechMakuLoco. They have been a huge help.
I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 L and the cruise was difficult to turn on ( not off ) and while in cruise difficulty to increase speed when it did increase the speed would climb over 20 mph that I released the plus button so I ended the cruise setting by touching the brake pedal or off button ( decrease speed button useless ) . I replaced the cruise brake component on the master cylinder ( I did not reset the PCM ) and tested the cruise. There are improvements with the cruise control - it’s easier to activate the cruise and increase the cruise speed ( but it doesn’t engine brake going downhill to regulate preset speed it gains momentum and will continue to regulate speed only going uphill or on a level surface ( decreasing cruise speed still useless ) . 130,000 miles on vehicle .
Would you please suggest a possible alternative ?
P.S. - your channel is and has been helpful for me in the past.
Thank you
Mine would work every once in a while. It read 27 ohms. The new one read .2 ohms. It works great now!
I replaced this part to fix a brake leak on the master cylinder. Definitely didn’t need to bleed the master cylinder. Just unscrew it. 99 Ford Expedition.
My 2007 Five Hundred will come on but it will cut off. If you hit a bump sometimes it will shut off. And sometimes it just shuts off going down the road.
I replaced the switch and I now have my cruise back, however, I believe my MC is leaking brake fluid from this point, which is why the switch failed in the first place. I cleaned up all the fluid around the new part and connector. If it continues to leak, can I use some plumber's tape to seal the connection? Or will I have to replace my MC? Any suggestions? Thanks for the videos, you have been extremely helpful!!!
Hey Brother.... thank you. 1999 Ford F350. Cruise stopped working, nada, nothing. $26 bucks Oreilly Auto. 5 minutes and vola'.... cruise control. One note though... it did seem to be leaking too. Not sure what that meant, and I also had no continuity.
My 2012 Ford Edge cruise control only works when I click erase on my OBD II tool even though it shows no codes. Do you have any ideas why this may be happening? Shoud I replace the switch? It is standard cruise control and not adaptive.
It’s 10 years old drop it off at the landfill
Well, great video - I installed a new brake pressure switch and that wasn't the problem. I also checked the fuses and the brake light bulbs - all seem to be in working order. Any new ideas? Btw I went to the dealer and got a factory switch for $29, so I'm not out that much.
palmcouple Which vehicle and year.
Two Things.
First, in researching best I could, I cannot find a fuse that seems to relate to the cruise on my 1994 Explorer Eddie Buer.
Second, I have the same issues trying to find the parts you are showing in your video.
I am old, so please excuse me on this. Can't see things up close, or far away, lol. Anyhow, I one by one removed and checked every fuse and did not see anything out of the norm, so I was gonna replace these items but ran into another issue in the fact that AutoZone and Advanced have no idea what I am talking about. Taking my phone in to show them the video next week.
Thanks for all your videos, they have been great, but this Explorer seems to be the exception to the norm.
You're probably sick of seeing these but: The dealership replaced the switch on my grandpa's '97 F150 but the cruise control doesn't work. Jumping the harness works though. Bad connection there? Bad switch or something wrong with the master cylinder?
Great video, I’ve replaced that switch twice both had the same reading. Both have continuity but when I hit the brake pedal it does change and still has continuity.. I’m lost tbh..
Just did this to my work truck and you are awesome! Thanks a ton
My 1995 Ranger Factory Wiring Diagram for the cruise control circuit shows the Cruise Deactivation Switch as normally open, and the "BOO" Brake On/Off switch as normally open. Is it possible that some of these are manufactured as normally open for older vehicles such as my 1995 model? Great video. Thanks
Thanks for the information works great again ,i tested the old one with the engine off, and it tested ok . with the engine running it failed .
2001 f150, wasn't there a recall on something connected to the end of the master cylinder? Well when they replaced the connector, which was leaking brake fluid, on my truck the horn and the cruse control stopped working. They said that the leak fix wouldn't fix the cruise control. Also the horn works when setting the alarm so the horn is alive.
I drive a much older generation 96 F150 and this was my problem. The pins are so damn crowded I had to spend 20 minutes cleaning them just to get continuity while shorting them out for initial testing. but once I have covfermed the pins contacting to the DMM leads... O P E N
Man your awesome !!! I have saved so much money just by watching your videos!
The problem i have with your videos is you make it look easy ! For example i changed the lower ball joint and upper arm,tie rod,front suspension. I used the hole weekend just for the left front side of the suv, and a other weekend for other side. Yeah it's a Ford expedition 1999.
If someone would be looking for a reliable Ford what type and model would you recommend?
How do I connect my ohm meter to do the continuity test of the de-activator pressure switch
Spraying CFC Contact Cleaner on the Elec. Connector worked for me.
Yeah, my cruise control won’t even come on in my 2017 Ford F150 lariat so I’m going to check to see if I have the switch
What is this part called?
Hello! I did this fix to my truck 6 months ago and worked again, last week it stop working again so I replace switch with oem and still no cruise, any other places to look at? Thanks!
You can also do the McGuyver trick with a paper clip. Just unplug the harness and short out the connector. I got tired of replacing the switches so just bypassed it, been working fine ever since.
If this is what is wrong with my car (2006 ford taurus), about how much would it cost to fix it at a repair shop? I am definitely hoping this is what is wrong because it seems like a quick, cheap fix. Thanks!
It is a quick, cheap fix. If you can turn a wrench and unplug one plug, why would you pay a shop to do this?
Was this related to the recalls I have heard about because the brake fluid would leak into the sensor and cause fires?
Thanks FTM!
I've got a 2011 Focus... intermittent cruise control. Does it have this switch as well?
THANKS!
+xlr82v2 It does under the dash above the brake pedal.
Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated. Always come to your videos for Ford Expertise.
Applied your fix today and voila, CRUISE CONTROL is BACK. Thanks!
When you buy the new sensor it doesn't come with the same plug that the car has. You need to make a connector out of what you have, or buy the adapter from Ford for a few dollars..
I have a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis. it often will not come on after driving down the road I have to hit the brakes and afterwards the cruise control doesn't want to work until several minutes have gone by.
I have a 2002 navigator. noticed this particular piece is leaking brake fluid. I've noticed the pig tail had been sliced before does the connector need to be replaced too? on the Amazon listing it does show a new connector. just wasn't sure.. good video
I'm diagnosing a 2007 E150, 4.6L van. The RED brake light stays lite up on the dash and will not go out. E brake switch is operating properly, I tested it. Master cylinder is full with fresh fluid. Brakes are functioning properly. Could the pressure sensor in the master cylinder be stuck OL and cause the light to stay on? I can't get any leads on the sensor to test it because it's hanging upside down like the one in this video. There is a float inside the reservoir but no electrical connection. I dont have a wiring diagram so is there anything else I am overlooking that could effect this circuit? BTW, master cyl switch connector has good power 12v on one wire when unplugged. Should the Ebrake switch also have 12v on one terminal because I am not getting any voltage on either wire? Thanks Brian
finded a old 77 f250 with the 460 ball n chain cruse controll, this help me fix thank