Swapping in a T5 Transmission in a Mustang - PART 2 of 2
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- I'm upgrading from the T10 4-speed in my '66 to a T5!
This video is the second half of the T5 Swap. In this video we go through the second half of the swap (putting in the Trans) and we'll see if everything works!
My car had a T10 Sideloader transmission in the car when I bought it. It worked great, and I was pleased to have it over an Auto. But then I found a T5 for sale and it was "impulse buy time"!
I knew I wanted to eventually do a T5 swap, but a deal came around that I had to have. I wish I had done more research as this T5 will work but it will cost more to swap because of the year.
Heads up! To save some money and headache, get a 1983-1993 T5 instead of the 1994-2001. I cover the differences in the video on how to make this one work
Parts list:
2001 T5 5-speed
T5 Transmission Mount, rubber (from MDL)
T5 Short throw stock shifter (from MDL)
Clutch, 10", standard style, setup for cable throw-out bearing (from MDL)
Block plate, standard size for 289, purchased for T5 swap (from MDL)
Flywheel bolts, ARP, 7/16", 6 pieces, black oxide (from MDL)
Clutch lever, made for 79-93 SBF, needed for new cable clutch (from MDL)
Bell Housing, 6 bolt, made for 79-93 SBF, utilizes cable clutch (from MDL)
Shift knob, Hurst, white, standard 5 speed pattern (from MDL)
Shift lever, Hurst, 10" x 5.5" x 1.3", chrome (from MDL)
Shift boot, Hurst, rubber, with chrome trim (from MDL)
Clutch Cable Conversion Kit (from MDL)
Crossmember, special for T5 conversion (will need to be modified, Ebay)
Yoke, 28 spline, 1330 U-Joint, made for T5 conversion (Ebay)
Speedometer Converter, Electronic to Mechanical, Ford thread style, Bluetooth calibration (Dakota Digital)
T5 Input shaft, w/ bearing and retainer, fits 83-93 SBF, 9-1/4 long, 23T (Ebay)
T5 rebuild kit, includes shims, bearings, clips, and synchros (Ebay)
Clutch Pressure Plate bolts, ARP, qty 6, 5/16" bolt (Ebay)
Transmission Fluid, Mobil 1 Synthetic, ATF, 1 quart containers (Summit)
Flywheel, 157T, 28oz, made for 10" and 10.5" clutches, OEM style replacement (Summit)
Reverse Light Pigtail, connects to side of T5 case for backup lights (LMR)
Speedometer wire harness, fits stock T5 transmission plug (LMR)
Service transmission, new bearings, seals, and synchros, install 9-1/4" input shaft (local shop did the work)
Shorten driveline to 50", purchased new tubing, new 1330 u-joint, new 1310/1330 u-joint (local shop did the work)
If you have questions about any of the items above, please let me know. :)
The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicso...
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#Mustang
#1966
I always clean off the new fly wheel with brake or carb cleaner just to make sure there is no containments that could gum up the clutch. Thank you for the very informative video.
Sometimes I forget to do the simple stuff like that. It gets worse when I'm trying to think about the camera angle and saying everything correctly, sometimes the most obvious stuff goes right out the window. :)
As a former professional mechanic, and later working Parts Dept, I would highly recommend installing a new "Engine to Firewall" ground cable (braided strap type). In the event of a missing or "iffy" ground, the shift cable will begin to try to substitute as an alternative route.
It was a fairly common problem, with many of the OEM "Console Shift" vehicles to experience broken/frozen (locked up) shift cables. I managed to get a customer to leave me his locked cable, and after disecting it, found evidence of arcing of the inner cable, as well as the inner cable finally being cooked away from the arcing until it separated and jammed in the jacket.
Even if you already have an existing OEM cable, I'd either replace it or simply add another as a "backup". Kinda like wearing a belt AND suspenders 🤔.
Great video!!!
Thanks for the feedback.
I updated the ground cabling in this car later on. to larger, newer, and more of them. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I'm a big believer in the "braided strap-type" ground cables. I always kept a couple of 15", 18" and 20" (either Dorman or Standard), and one of the first things that got replaced (often also missing), was ground cables.
As a bare minimum, you want: 1) NEG (-) to Engine (Alt/Gen bracket preferably), 2) NEG (-) to mounting bolt/bracket for starter solenoid (braided-type), 3) Rear of cyl head to Firewall (braided-type). I also prefer to make my own battery and starter cables instead of dealing with some of the enemic cables usually found lately. I buy enough 1/0 "welding cable in both red and black insulation, the appropriate terminal ends (POS, NEG, EYE) and what's referred to as "Dual wall heat shrink tubing". This particular type of heat shrink tubing has a sealer inner liner that creates a water/chemical resistant seal and will, if done correctly, probably outlast your grandchildren and then some. I solder all connections (applying solder until it's no longer being "absorbed" by the cable) and quickly water quench and remove excess from the outside of the terminals. Regardless of POS/NEG or it's location, I always use the "Dual wall heat shrink tubing anywhere I make a splice or terminal connection. It adds a bit to both time and expense, but if done correctly (as well as routing/placement), should never be a source of trouble. Another "mod" I usually do, is to run the NEG (-) 1/0 cable from the BAT through a "T-eye", 1st to the frame, and then on to the Alt/Gen bracket. This allows me to use the cable as a guide/anchor for the POS (+) cables (from the starter solenoid to the starter as well as from the Alt/Gen back to the BAT POS (+) connection on the starter solenoid. Lastly, depending on the location, I also prefer to use a "Star washer" directly between the body/frame/engine and the terminal "eye", as well as between the surface of the nut (stud mount) or bolt head to insure a good "bite" getting through any paint, rust, etc.
Blessings to All 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Love love love love LOVE that sound!!! What an amazing car! I know she is gone now, but I hope she is still on the road making that beautiful sound.
It was a local person that bought the car, I hope she drives it often. :)
this is how I installed a Tremec 5spd in my 1965 289 Mustang using all the original clutch pedal and clutch linkage assemble including the 1965 throwout bearing arm and throwout bearing. Take a 1965 Bell housing and drill out the two fulcrum mounting rivets. index using the four transmission mounting holes a template, plexiglass is good. Drill the two 1965 fulcrum holes. Take your template and bolt t to your new 5sdg bell housing. drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them. . Take out the cable pitot arm. As you stated the imput shafts are different. Between a top loader and a Tremec, 5/8th of an inch longer Tremec. So I machined aluminum bar stock 5/8th of an inch thick and made a spacer to move the 1965 fulcrum forward in the 5 spd bell housing and bolted it down with grade 8 fine thread bolts and metal locking nuts. That is it, no cables, no hydraulics. So the money I saved not going hydraulic or cable went to a aluminium drive shaft. I also used a diaphragm 10 1/2 inch clutch. So I used the solid input shaft bearing, 1965 throwout bearing, 1965 throw out bearing arm. The conversion cost me less than $20 less the machine shop, which was free for me, we had a Bridge Port. And I would never go back to a toploader, never. I have had this in my car 35 years. I also have a very cool front suspension modification using all For OEM parts that does the Shelby drop, but when I finished the car is almost level. It does sit low like the normal modification. This allows for no rolling fenders and bigger tires. And it only requires one shim per upper control arm bolt.
Thanks for the info.
Congrats! Your video is more helpful than MDL's. I bought the entire T5 kit from MDL and am starting today.
Glad it was helpful. Good luck, you've got this! :)
Just watched the whole video. Great informative video. I long for the fifth gear, but love the originality of my toploader.
Thank you for your time investment, it's my longest video on my channel, but hopefully there's value there for people. I too appreciate the originality of the T10 and I'm already kicking myself for selling it (needed the money to help pay for this project). Because of where I live, that 5th gear is going to be a very welcome addition.
@@AndyKruseChannel Yep I understand! Having lower RPM on the highway is great for the sanity!
Im having my T5 installed in my 66 Mustang now, same problem with that provided transmission mount. I hope this problem/solution gets back to the kit builder...
I'd like to believe that they could modify their description to highlight the differences, but I'm not holding my breath. :)
thanks Andy, i always learn quite a good bit watching your detailed vids, much appreciated !
Awesome, thanks for the feedback! It's great to hear when people are able to pull some info from these videos. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel absolutely, thanks so much !
I did the t5 swap a long time ago.i replaced the flywheel, clutch and pilot bearing with my last engine build a month ago. Got 180k miles on old t5 so I'm guessing this one will blow up soon. I'm guessing the t5 will be a piece of cake to replace by itself .
Easy to remove, easy to rebuild. 🙂
Awesome vids Andy.... very informative and inspiring for my [non mustang] project.... a 1949 Jeepster.
Tall skinny wide white walls with 302 & T5.
Thanks so much! Very helpful.
Awesome, I'm glad my videos can help! :)
I am adding the new T5 but not using the cable clutch and going straight to the hydraulic throw-out bearing conversion application. I have a 1966 mustang 289. Do I need a new bell housing or just an adapter plate? I appreciate your videos for the good and bad of these type of conversions. I think you gave part numbers for the new bell housing and cover plate but can you reference those for me as well? Thanks Andy….your videos have been both informational and inspirational. I’ve had my project car in the garage since 1983.
Yes, you will need a new bellhousing to go with your T5 swap. Using the hydraulic throw-out unit or not will not change the bellhousing you need, so it's the same one I referenced. :)
Starter indexing plates are probably one of My favorite things about sbf's
We all have our vices. :)
Killer video! Very helpful. I’ve got to pull my 88 T5 out due to a leak. I’m hoping I can get it out and fixed.
Thanks!
I wish I would have had your '88, it would have been easier and cheaper to put in my car vs this 2001 unit. :)
Wow,wow, your explanation is great, please keep making more videos I am learning a lot from your Installation. Mike.
Thanks, will do!
Andy! Outstanding work and subject on both parts 1 and 2. Just about to put all my parts in for a C4 to T5 swap with a n 5 bolt bell. You did yours much faster than me. So not to worry about 5 weeks. ;)
Thanks for the feedback!
Hopefully there's some value for you in these videos and make it easier to complete your swap. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yes absolutely there is. Mine has been so protracted that the videos you did re-centers me and probably many others. Keep up the great work!
@@glm777 Awesome! More videos coming in hot!
Love this video. Used it as a reference for my T5 swap. Question - How tightly adjusted is your clutch cable? How would rate the clutch pedal stiffness
Thanks!
I adjusted the cable so it was just about to move the clutch fork, that's when it's tight enough. The pedal is around as stiff as the stock z-bar linkage, but that depends more on the stiffness of the clutch itself rather than the pedal. For this particular swap, no long after it, I had to go to a hydraulic clutch because I melted the cable. It was my fault, it didn't work with my header design, but I was glad I did. I also went to a hydraulic clutch on my current Mustang as my knee just can't take it anymore. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel
Thank you for the feedback. I had to replace my clutch cable as I had long tube headers. The warning label warned me about using them, but thought header wrap and the heat shield would keep the cable from being melted. Immediately melted the cable and had to replace the cable.
Car was originally an automatic so I’m unsure how stiff the pedal should feel. I’m confident I installed it right this time, but it is on the stiffer side. May have to upgrade like you did down the line.
Thank you for all your time in posting this. It was very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Answered many questions I have. Looking forward to checking out some of your other videos.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, very helpful. Did you lift the engine to slide the headers in or was there enough room underneath to allow them to get in place?
Thanks!
Unfortunately I had to lift it a tiny amount, I made a video on the install, you should check it out! :)
Any regrets or recommendations for a diy swap like this? My 3 speed is not making the highway too fun lately.
Had you redone the rear end at this point?
Zero regrets. In fact, I liked it so much that I did this swap on my current Mustang way sooner than when I did it on this car. For the car in this video, I had already done the Third Member upgrade by the time I got to the T5 swap. If you plan to upgrade the Third Member before you put in a transmission like the T5, you'll dislike your 3spd even more when on the highway. However, driving the car around town might be more fun as the shorter gearing in the rear pairs nicely with the rather tall first gear in your transmission. The acceleration will noticeable. :)
Nice video. Did you dial indicate your bell housing to get the proper tolerance so the T-5 would line up correctly and not wear out the T-5 input shaft beating?
Thanks! No, I did not dial indicate the bell housing.
Good video well done, but I dont get the speedo box? I have a T5 in my 67 and I just used the standard speedo cable and the right gear at the end of the cable into the trans for my 3:55 rear end with 245-60 tires. Is that box needed for a digital dash ?
This T5 is from 94+ Mustang where the speedometer reads a signal produced by a hall effect sensor. The box converts the digital signal into a spinning movement and this allows the stock speedometer in the Classic Mustang to work with the newer transmission.
Andy, how long were the bolts you purchased to go through all three mounting frames (master cylinder, valve and clutch cable brackets)? I am getting ready to do this and I thought I would get the right size bolts. Also, would love to see something on your brake setup as I am trying to get that together also. I am almost done with the T5 conversion. Time to get the other items up to par!
I believe I used the stock bolts to hold that Clutch Cable bracket and the brake bias valve bracket to the firewall. The thickness of the brackets are thin enough, you should have plenty of stock bolt length to make it work. However, one this I did notice was the brake push rod was not long enough given the thickness of those two brackets, I made a video about it. :)
I have since sold that car, so reviewing the brakes on that car will be difficult. However, I have a very similar setup on my current car, but I plan to revisit all the components because I don't think the car is braking as well as it should. I'll be talking to Wilwood about all the right pieces I need to fix the braking, too bad I can't get them to sponsor it. ;)
in 1979 Borg Warner started producing a WC T5 which continued to about 1983.
I thought the WC T5s started in 1983, before that it was just the T5?
@@AndyKruseChannel The Borg Warner I have is stamped 1979. So I cannot speak prior to this date. Good Luck.
It may be difficult to find the wc-t5 and if you do it may still require a significant rebuild. Through my discussion with Modern Driveline, I got exactly what I needed to support the torque generated by my 331. They are excellent to deal with and will help you make the right decisions for your needs and budget.
I also think MDL is great to deal with. If I were to do this again, I would probably purchaseT5 from MDL. As far as cost goes, I paid $500 for the T5 and about $1300 at MDL for the necessary parts to rebuild and convert to my engine. All said, I probably could have purchased a new one for a bit more. Good Luck.
Thanks for the instructional video. But man o man what a major no no that clutch cable nonsense is looks and function wise. You really should have stuck with the original linkage. There's nothing wrong with it unless you are putting in a heavy pressure plate. Also checking bell housing runout is pretty important for long transmission front bearing life.
That clutch cable problem was on me, I should have done a little more research on the cable vs header type. Oh well, it's only money, you can't take it with you. :)
I have a 95 donor mustang and I plan to install the motor and trans into my car. What do you see will be the biggest issue since I’m installing a match set motor and trans? Does MDL make a clutch cable kit for the later bellhousing? Also did you you the later mustang tail shaft and is shifter in a good location? I might go with a S-10 tail shaft to mover shifter forward. Love the vidieos
You'll have two issues you'll need to solve with that motor/trans combo, I had to solve the same problems on the swap I did in this video. 1 - The speedometer is electronic (not cable driven) so you'll have to get a converter (like I did, about $400) or get a new speedometer that can accept the signal from the trans. That second option will likely be more expensive as you'll need to buy a new gauge bezel and all the other gauges to go with it (somewhere between $600-$1000). 2 - The trans mount is about an inch farther back, so unless you can find a crossmember brace that is already made to mount that trans to your car, you'll have to modify one, like I did for this swap. I made a video about that trans mount mod, you should check it out.
Yes, the cable clutch kit you'd buy from MDL will work with this setup. You can also buy their hydraulic clutch kit for your swap. It's a little bit more expensive than the cable kit, but I think it's the better purchase.
In my opinion, stick with the ford tailshaft housing, you don't want the S-10 tail. The shifter location will be 6-8 inches farther forward (farther away from you where you sit in the car) and you'll have to cut up the floor and carpet to make it work. Plus, you might find the shift lever is hitting the under side of the dash, and you'll need a custom shift lever for sure, so you can reach it.
Good luck! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for the input and I will watch the video
Just installed a new alternator harness and a new battery tray with hold down hardware.
That's great to hear. Pretty soon all these smaller steps turn into a car that is done and ready to rock!
Hey Andy I've heard people say you have to do some trimming to the tunnel and I've heard some people say it's not required? Did you have to do any trimming to the right side of the tunnel where the shifter comes up?
It depends on the shifter assembly that is on the trans. Meaning, the unit I have on the T5 in this video is a "stock" style shifter assembly and it fits in the hole in the floor without any modification to the hole in the floor. However, on my current Mustang (the Fastback), I also did a T5 swap (I have a video on that too) and I had an aftermarket shifter assembly that due to its size required me to trim the opening in the floor for the assembly to poke through. I was minor, and the shift boot completely covers it, so it's not even noticeable while you're in the car.
As far as any other types of trimming or modifying the tunnel, the answer is zero. I've done this T5 swap on a Coupe and a Fastback (both 1966 models) and neither required any modification to the car to make the trans fit. :)
@Andy Kruse Thanks for your reply Andy! Your videos have been very useful to me. I have the Hurst shifter on my T5. I will be installing it this weekend!
Just so we're on the same page, the hurst shifter is not the shifter assembly I am referring to (you might already know that, but just in case). I'm talking about the metal cover on the back end of the tail housing with six bolts and the rubber boot. There are different styles of that part and some can cause clearance issues where it pokes through the hole in the floor of these cars. :)
@Andy Kruse Oh, okay I thought you was talking about the upper shifter. I'm pretty sure my T5 is stock. 🤷♂️
Would you recommend that center cup holder piece? Been wanting to pull the trigger but have been hesitant. Lmk how you like it
I don't think I understand which piece you're referring to, could you describe it a bit more? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel The center console cup holder
@@OnlineResell Haha, I was thinking you were referring to something on the Trans or similar. Yes and No. I am used to having an arm rest in every other car I own oer have owned, so not having one here was a difficult adjustment. The build quality is OK and the fit is decent. I wish the holders were a pinch deeper, but the biggest issue is how unsturdy it is in the car. The bottom is sort of cut to match the shape of the tunnel, but it's not a great fit. It is held down with velcro, for the most part it's fine, but if you put any weight on it or rely on it when trying to use some leverage, it moves and gets frustrating. There may be other brands out there that are a better fit or are more secure, but for the money it's decent. I had one in my previous '66 Mustang, so I had to have one in this car. If I were to buy another Mustang down the road, I'd buy another center console. I may look and see if there's a better version out there, but I'd definitely have something like this in my car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I've got the identical center console in mine and I have similar feelings about it.
I have a bench seat with a flip down centre piece ...it makes a perfect arm rest, imo.
Your parking brake linkage looks a little differne then my 65. Mine is adequate but could be much better. On my list to improve.
I'm not positive that what's on that car is what is supposed to be there, but I do know that it works. :)
Did you have to CUT OR TRIM THE FLOOR BOARDS ??? I KNOW YOU DID TRAN SUPORT , COULD YOU HAVE WELD A METAL PLATE FOR TRANS MOUNT W/ 2 holes ?
I did not need to modify the car, just the trans mount. I made a separate video about how and why I modified that trans mount. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel , Thanks for the info. I have 63 Merc. Comet rag top, do not want to cut floor or tunnel
Awesome videos!!! I just finished doing my t5, but still have miles to go to get it running..
what headers are you running on your mustang?
Thanks! What do you have left to do?
I decided to ditch the generic units I had on there and go with some Ceramic Long Tube headers from Summit Racing. I've got a video about it coming out soon.
@@AndyKruseChannel Well I think I am kind of close to hearing it again but I rebuild the engine its s 289. I then put in the t5 from a 89 mustang. I am currently installed a painless kit, still need to connect some stuff and wrap it.
@@torreerrot Hopefully you have more patience than me. When I get down to the last few items I have to catch myself from rushing things. This is when I usually run into issues I created. I've gotten better over the years, but I still have to work at it. Maybe you can make a video of your progress and share it here on UA-cam!!?
@@AndyKruseChannel Hahaha if I were to make some videos it would be 1/2 spanish and 1/2 bad English hahaha. I just got my tri-y headers in over the weekend and man does it look good. Sadly had to give it some hits with the hammer, but all to get these shinny tubes in :)
did you have to modify or change the cardan???? next week i will swap my ford maverick 71 from c4 to t4 and i want to know if you had to modify the cardan
Cardan? Do you mean the U-joint? If so, the U-joint and Driveline are the same sizes needed for the T5 swap in my car, but I don't know about other years or models.
Awesome job man😎
Thanks 😁
Hi Andy, question , do you know if the engine should be warmed up and on in idle when checking transmission fluid level on the 66’ 289 c4? I’m aware not a cold check , just wasn’t sure if on or off is required
Thanks
I’ve always heard that autos need to be warm when checking the fluid level.
@@AndyKruseChannel any idea if needs to be running idle or off?
Plus any idea where a common leak may be aside from the pan seal ?
Thx and hey Happy New Year Mr Kruse
@@NightOwl444 Yes, engine needs to be running. Other than pan leaks, check around the shift selector on the driver's side of the trans (usually an O-ring), there's a regulator-thing on the back with a hose plugged into the end that can sometimes leak, the tailshaft seal, and the fittings for the cooler lines to the radiator are all places I would check. :)
So you put a 93 and earlier input shaft in you tranny to be able to use all of MDL parts to install? I have a 95 T5 with bellhousing and flywheel everything. Did you not have this stuff or did you just decide to go with 93 and earlier stuff to make life easier? What will I encounter staying with all 95 stuff? I know it shifts the tranny back a little more than the earlier models. I see you had to modify your crossmember is that because the tranny is a little different or did you use a 95 bell housing also?
Correct, I opted to go with the older year parts to make things easier, even if it wasn't cheaper. If you've got all '95 parts, it will all work just as you mentioned, except the trans mount location will be even further back than mine was, possibly requiring a different cross member, or even a custom made piece. Despite the T5 swap being extremely common on these cars, I was surprised how little info there was for the later years trans, especially the lack of parts to make it work. That's why I went with the older year components.
When I did the T5 swap on my current Mustang project, I made sure to get the correct year trans, it made the install go more smoothly and it was cheaper in the end.
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks, that’s what I’m figuring out also I talked to MDL and they pretty much said good luck we don’t have anything for T5s after 93.
does it feel much faster than the 4 speed?
did you have to swap the axle that goes in the engine or did you bought a different bellhousing bacause i didnt understand in the video
how much was the speedo convertor box?
@@chevroletbelair1 The car is actually a tiny bit slower because of the gearing inside the transmission (compared to the 4 speed I pulled out). I had previously put in better gearing in the rear end, which made the car accelerate faster, but the gearing in the T5 pulled me back down a bit. I have 3.55 in the rear, I should change it to 3.80 and I'd be where I was with the 4 speed, but then I also have the 5th gear for highway speeds. :)
Yes, I had to swap the input shaft on the T5 because the Trans is a 2001 unit. All T5's from 94-04 have a slightly longer input shaft than the 83-93 trans. I could have left it alone because I have the bellhousing that goes with the trans, so it would have set the proper distance away from the motor. However, the Boys at Modern Driveline convinced me to buy a new "shorter" bellhousing and get the correct input shaft that sort of converts my T5 into the earlier 83-93 style. This allowed me to use a common clutch, clutch lever, and the clutch cable that I have since melted (more on that next week). In the end, I could have stayed with the original input shaft, original bellhousing, and figured out how to make the Z-bar work, but I was trying to make it simpler by throwing money at it with new parts. If I had to redo it, I'd still go this route, just not choose the cable clutch option.
The Speedo box thing was about $330 and I found it on Ebay. Other sites have it, but it was more expensive. Part number for that converter box is ECD-200BT-1. The other option to buying this converter box is to buy a digital speedometer that accepts the same electrical signal that I'm sending to the converter box. In the end it would have been more expensive to do that as I would have wanted to redo all the gauges in the dash, so I went with the converter box. :)
Question, when considering the clutch cable kit. Would it make a difference by getting shorty headers instead of long tube in order to avoid melting the cable? Or would it still make contact even with the shorty headers?
Knowing what I know now, shorties would have been a much better (and cheaper) route for me to take. While I did get a good deal on those headers, due to the problems I had with the cable during and after the install, I should have just gone with shorties. Also, those new headers hang down very low, I actually have to be careful where I drive the car now because of how low they hang below the frame rails. The tubing that you would have coming from the end of the shorties could be routed so it completely misses the cable, making the cable a pretty decent alternative to the Z-bar mechanism.
Back in the eighties when Ford came out with the clutch cable... that is the reason they invented shorty headers unfortunately shorty headers aren't worth two cents... if you want Power go with long tube headers and use the old mechanical linkage
@@joeytacey743 exactly why i went with long tube headers. Kept the mechanical linkage but it makes some kind if grinding noise when i press on the clutch. Im hoping that is normal haha
@@joeytacey743 long tubes are awful. Always in the way, burn things, etc all for 2 extra hp over shortys. Anything is better than a manifold.
Is that throw out bearing specific for a clutch cable kit? I want to keep my standard linkage setup. Is there a specific item number or number would you happen to know where i could purchase the throw out bearing itself?
The throwout bearing I used goes with the type of clutch release lever that works with this bellhousing. I know you can use the original z-bar linkage for T5 swaps, and they have a throwout bearing that works for that setup, I just don't know the exact setup you need. If I were you, give the guys at Modern Driveline a call and explain your scenario and they'll be able to tell you exactly what parts you need to make it all work. Those guys are super helpful and easy to talk to. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks andy, 👍i have the same clutch release lever as you but im in need of a release bearing. Did you purchase yours from mdl? If so do you have the item number? I believe our set up is almost the same except i am keeping the original clutch linkage.
@@jovanistreety6565 I'm not sure that the factory linkage would work with the clutch lever on my car. Meaning, the factory linkage pushes the lever towards the rear of the car, so the pivot point would be between where the linkage connects with the lever and the throwout bearing. With a clutch cable (or hydraulic setup), the cable pulls the lever towards the front of the car, forcing the pivot point to be on the other side of the throwout bearing.
However, it's possible you have all the correct components and I'm wrong about the setup. Unfortunately I do not have the part number for the bearing as it came with the clutch kit I purchased from MDL (clutch kit # MD-O7-14C). I'd still recommend calling MDL and confirming with them the parts you need. They might even sell just the bearing. :)
Why didn't you use your Quickjacks?
The Quickjacks don't allow entry from the side of the car, you have to come in from either end. When doing the Trans removal/install you need to be able to get to various areas from various positions. Also, the width of the Quickjacks take up some space under the car, making the space between them a "tunnel" that you have to maneuver through. The Quickjacks are best used when doing work on the front or rear of the vehicle, not the middle. :)
I’ve done some research and I have came upon a question, do I need to get a rollerized pilo bearing or just a normal bearing for a 289? Specifically a t5Z
I got a 302 and from what I know you need to go to a roller bearing
Roller pilot bearing. You might be able to get away with the older style where it was basically a bushing (made of softer material), but the roller bearing is what you want. The size is fairly standard for these cars, the boys at Modern Driveline will be able to tell you the exact bearing you need. They were instrumental in getting me the parts I needed and answering questions like this. :)
If you pick up a clutch kit, the roller bearing is included.
Do you need the pedal return spring after going to a cable conversion?
Nope, that pedal return spring is only needed for the mechanical linkage (the Z-bar) for those that choose to keep that system. The cable clutch conversion and hydraulic conversion do not need that return spring. :)
How many miles was your break in process for the clutch before you gave it a burn out or driven hard?
You're supposed to put a few hundred miles, but I don't know where that is written. I may have put fewer miles on mine before I tried to kick up a few rocks. The results was needing to replace the fan shroud on the radiator. More on that in a few weeks. ;)
@@AndyKruseChannel nice thank you for replying I saw your video on the hydraulic clutch I’m guna convert mine over as well I had did the cable but thinking or converting to hydraulic that was an awesome video by the way!
@@lucianohernandez3468 Cool, good luck on the hydro clutch, take your time on drilling the holes for the slave cylinder mounting bracket. :)
Like your Hurst shifter what length is it 10 1/2 ?
Close, it's 10" length. The Hurst part number is 4106. :)
Should there not be a rubber boot for the clutch fork hole in the bell housing to keep dirt and grime out? Or is there and we just didn't see it?
It's there, I very quickly mention it in the video because I forgot to film putting it in. It's around the 5:30 mark. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I saw you mentioned the firewall plug, but I mean the large hole in the side of the bell housing where the clutch cable meets the clutch fork?
@@AndyKruseChannel "Mustang Clutch Fork Dust Cover (83-93) - LMR.com" lmr.com/item/LRS-7513AK/1983-93-Mustang-Clutch-Fork-Dust-Cover
@@finalmage6 Oops, my mistake, I completely misunderstood what you were asking about. There is a cover that Modern Driveline sells for that location, but I had to make a change to the clutch actuation and I'm not sure if it will still work. I'll be looking into it soon. ;)
Ik weet niet of het kan maar ik zag dat automatisch olie in je handbak doet 😯 kan dat wel
In the comments people are saying that modern Driveline has headers that will clear the cable but I just looked on their website and didn't see any headers at all😳
The installation instructions for the cable kits (they link them on their site) list the known headers. But, to make it simple, they say:
"All stock exhaust manifolds, most shorty and mid-length headers, Heddman 88660, Patriot H8433, Doug's Headers, JBA 6610S, JBA 1650S, JBA1655S, and Ford Powertrain Applications".
@@AndyKruseChannel okay so what they're saying is they don't have their own brand at modern Driveline but they are suggesting those other brands👍
@@joeytacey743 Correct, MDL does not sell headers. But to be clear, they're not recommending specific headers, they're just listing the ones they know work. There are other headers out there that supposedly work too, but MDL has not updated their list in a while.
Do you have a link to the crossmember? Or could I reuse the stock one?
I purchased it off Ebay, about $90 shipped. Just look up T5 Crossmember 1966 Mustang and you should be able to find one. Unfortunately I could not find one that works on my car but also works with the 94-04 T5s, that's why I had to modify it. I did a video on that modification, check it out! :)
Good work
Thank you! Cheers!
Do you still have your mt valve covers in another video?
Sorry Boss, I sold them already.
It’s possible to use the original z bar with those headers and t5
Definitely, it seems these headers are made to accommodate the Z-bar. The main reason why I went to the cable clutch was because of the clutch lever design inside the bellhousing I purchased. Knowing everything I know now, I would have either purchased the bellhousing that allowed me to retain the Z-bar, or gone with a hydraulic setup. More on that soon. ;)
@@AndyKruseChannel you can use a z bar with a fox body beel housing. MDL has an adapter to make it work, that's what I did.
@@Mike-sh2dg Right, I'm learning about that now. But the Hydraulic Clutch option costs more, and if I want to single handedly want to keep the doors open at MDL, I need to do my part. :)
What kind of bolts did you use for the trans mount?
The ones at 20:33 in the video
They were the bolts that held the trans mount on my other transmission, I just reused them.
Atf olie in een handbak 😲 kan dat wel ziet er goed uit. Google maps voor je kalibreren
I was unsure of the ATF oil at first, but everywhere online says on ATF oil in the T5. :)
Not sure about your second comment "kan dat wel ziet er goed uit." Which part looks good that you are referring to?
I'm not sure if I could use Google Maps for the calibration, but the mile marker signs on the highway (spaced one per mile) makes it really easy to calibrate. It took less than 5 minutes to drive from my house to where I could calibrate it, do the calibration, and then drive home. It was very easy!
40:10 Hall Effect Sensor.
That's it! Sometimes you can get away with stuff like "speedometer-thingy", but sometimes it's better to have the actual name. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel good job on the T5 swap. Very informative video and you really are doing a good job with your content quality. I'm surprised you don't have more subs.
I've been on the fence with the 5 spd swap as I've got the T10 also. Like you I'm clocking 2800-3000 rpm at highway speeds. Also, my T10 is sloppy, not wanting to stay in 3rd and the synchros are toast between 1st and 2nd 😇.
After watching this I'm not off the fence yet that I want the 5 spd. I may just rebuild the T10 and leave it original. Coincidentally I have done the EFI swap and the silly thing gets 18 mpg even swinging 3000 rpm.
@@92xl Thanks for the feedback! I think the two reason why my Sub count is low is because the classic mustang is a very niche market, and most people go to youtube for entertainment over how-to videos.
It was easy for me since the T10 didn't originally come with the car, so keeping things stock was off the table. The T10 was working just fine, no problems but I wanted that better fuel economy for the highway driving. Switching to EFI down the road will further improve what I have, so it's on the list!
It would probably be cheaper in your case to rebuild the T10 over swapping in the T5.
@@AndyKruseChannel I'll caution you on the EFI swap. Do your research, research that research and then build a spreadsheet and research it some more.
I've done the Fitech Go Street swap, put in a new tank with in-tank fuel pump and full return system. I've had problems with it, which isn't unexpected but the problems have been with the throttle body and the fact the ECM is mounted inside the unit, in the valley of the hottest part of the engine. When that fails, you are done. There is little to no troubleshooting you can do at home or side of road. There is ZERO parts you can buy/swap at home, back to the factory twice so far for ECM replacement.
The Holley Sniper is plagued with reliability issues also. (Do your research incase you missed that part).
Is there a cool factor to cycling the key and hearing a fuel pump kick in and prime the system and hitting the key to an absolutely flawless cold start idle? YES! Does the engine run and perform as well as or better than a 600 double pumper? YES! Can I diagnose and or troubleshoot it? NOPE. Can I fix it on side of road? NOPE, NOPE AND NOPE!
Factory assistance consists of sending you some files to update the ECM and then when that fails, ship it to them and be dead in the water for a month or more.
@@92xl The advice to do research before buying parts is something I could do better on, that has bit me in the past.
I was eye-balling the Holley system, but thanks for the heads up because I'm not wild about constant problems with their products this late in the game.
Honestly though, I've got so much other stuff to work on, fix, and upgrade before I get there that it may never be an issue for me. :)