Thank you. This helped me with a few issues I was having issues like powder leaks, setting the large powder drum to throw less powder with that plug, and setting the powder die.
At 70yo, I'm looking to get into reloading, so I can shoot more and as another hobby! Thanks for your time and info, as Im looking at the Lee Classic Turret press and this powder loader Stay SAFE and practice often
The turret press is a great option in my opinion. It gives you the one round at a time focus but automates the steps making it useful for higher volume rounds like 9mm. The auto drum is just the cherry on top of this affordable setup. If you get the kit you will want to add an electronic scale and a bullet puller right off the bat. Thanks for watching!
Regarding the white Safety Prime bracket that mounts to press.... use the black one that came with the press. Learned that today. Works much better. Lines up perfect!
Great video , I was having an issue with drum not doing a full rotation.The problem was a small grain of tubular powder stuck half way in the gears preventing them from full rotation.The powder was same colour as the metal very hard to see.Hope this helps some body else.
I need to revisit the first Auto Drum powder measure I bought 4 or 5 years ago. I had to send it back to Lee for something I forget. Anyway, I now have a new one I got with my BL Pro 4000. I will give it a go. Thanks for all the pointers.
Thank you! I have been using the Auto Drum for a while now and totally missed the the rifle drum can be converted to a pistol measure. I only load two pistol caliber loads and have been changing the one pistol drum each time I change caliber. I now have a second drum thanks to your video. Again, thanks.
Thank you!!, I just set up my pro 1000 for 233 with the lee auto drum and I was trying to figure out how to disable that disconnector. great video. Thanks
Sorry I missed this comment! Not sure but I have brushed the contact area with graphite lube and I also do not run the drum knob very tight as that would add extra friction. Some people say it hard to draw the case out of the die/powder measure. This is because the case is getting stuck on the expander die (if its a pistol case). In this case you can, put a little case lube on the expander neck in the die and or reduce the belling. Hope you see this late post and it helps, thanks for watching.
If you're talking about the powder measure wobbling a little, I recently found out Lee added a small part years ago that acts as a shim that my very early version didn't have. In my latest video, I go over this, added the shim with the deluxe upgrade kit and my PM now runs rock solid.
Helpful video, thanks for sharing. Re: that disconnector, I removed mine as well. In my first attempts at using this, I noticed the drum not rotate in my loading. Then I weighed the next couple charges and found it had gone way light on the charges. I ended pulling the whole batch and found one squib. I'm so used to the dead on reliability of the auto disc that I guess I was spoiled a little. The first go-around also was leaking like crazy so I kept tightening the drum screw. Take-aways for me were: set the screw tightness on the drum and don't touch it afterward. Watch the throws more closely, and remove that flexy disconnector. My results today were much better, though the consistency still tends to wander between 4.4 and 4.6 grains (titegroup). My target being 4.5 grains to make power factor. 4.4 will make it, but with less cushion. I'm also removing the drum every 120-150 rounds now to check for buildup in places and to reset how tight the drum is installed. I found if you close the hopper valve, you can pop it off without spilling any thing. Then I unscrew the auto drum from the die and dump it into the hopper. Super easy compared to changing discs / disc sizes.
Great video. One suggestion, which I think is in the instructions for the Lee Auto Drum: After removing the linkage to disable the disconnector, re-insert the screw into the hole on the other side of the vertical arm. That will prevent the arm from engaging the "disconnect" function. I have a Hornady LNL-AP progressive press that I mainly use for pistol ammo. I find it to be a pain to have to swap out the rotor in the Hornady powder measure to load rifle ammo. I read some reviews on how well the "LAD" meters "stick" rifle powders and decided to use it for my rifle ammo. The measure only cost a little more than buying one Hornady powder measure die body (I have one of those for each cartridge I load using the LNL-AP measure). It does work well with the extruded powders but my "volume" rifle cartridge is .300 Blackout and the most popular powders are H110 and similar fine grained powders, so I'm dealing with the powder leakage that you mentioned.
Great comment, the first time i shot that part i did put the screw inthe hole...i didnt like how it came out so i shot it again and omitted that, so good catch! These work pretty well but they are a real stinker for fine powders. Caused me to design a stand to mount a drum powder measure on the LCT press.
Good to see another video from you! I was beginning to think you dropped of the face of the earth... lol Great video, TreeTopFlier! As always, very clear, concise, with lots of great information. I think I'm going to stick with my Lee Auto Disks. I have one for every caliber I use, that makes it quick and easy to swap calibers/setup. But it's always interesting and I always enjoy your videos. Thanks!
Good to hear from you. I have been doing a renovation on my house, so once you take a sledge to the kitchen, bath its head down and focus. I plan to get back into making videos now that I have the worst of it behind me. Thanks for your continued support.
To keep consistent weight on the powder within the hopper use a large washer with a hole in the center from which a string or a toilet chain can be attached to help remove it. Saw this year's back it seems to help...
I tried to make the point in the video that the Lee hopper has a large cavity with a small hole into a larger staging area. This is built in feature that eliminates the need for additional baffles by controlling the weight that can be applied by the reserve powder on the staging area powder. I haven't experienced the need for additional baffles.
Yes I caught that from your excellent video. It's some used for the cylindrical powers. Not sure if it works that well on flaked powers....not really a baffle the weight keeps helps flow. Thanx 😊
Good video Mr. TTF I just got one of these to replace my leaky disk drum loader. I'm researching all I can on the proper setup of my new unit so i don't break it. I like your idea of removing the disconnector/latch unit, think I'll be modifying mine. Good Information, I'll be watching your other videos
The perfect powder measure is a great tool. A little flimsy in construction but it really makes charging cases easy and accurate. Not sure it maintains its utility in a single stage press but it really shines in one of the turret presses.
Thanks for confirming H110 will leak from this one just as it does from the (otherwise quite aptly named) Perfect Powder measure + PP Deluxe measure. Good objective video, thanks for sharing.
Best two things i got for my press was the Auto Drum and the RCBS powder cut out Die..I de-cap, clean primer pocket, and prime off the Press..so the Auto Drum is now Stage 1 ..the check out Die is Stage Two ..if theres a issue with the powder drop ,either none or part of or dbl charge , the Lockout Die Locks the Press from going any further Nobe of this reaching over check for powder in the Case or attaching lights to shine in the case..it takes the guess work out of ..did i or didnt i ....i got mine from a Gun shop but noticed now on Amazon
For the leakage, find a drum that doesn't leak and mark that for H110, W296 etc. There is a delicate balance between expansion and stroke. The manual advice to just tighten everything down overexpands the case mouths. Backing it off, you have to be careful that you still get a full stroke.
This is interesting comment. Ive heard others remark about over expanding and complete rotation but I havent had any issues. I even went out and re set some dies up just to see. In my case, I can thread the PM into the die and adjust the die to get more or less belling. In either case the case mouth is strong enough to over come the spring and rotate the drum without belling until the mechanism reaches the top of the travel, at which point the bell is accomplished. I can imagine, if the drum knob is too tight it might give enough frictional drag to over bell the case before reaching a full stroke, I dont know? Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@TreeTopFlier on my setup, even before the measure hit the stop, I was getting more bell than I needed for berry's plated. I got a batch of brass where that was causing splits. I don't mind tossing those cases, but of course that's after you inserted a precious primer.
@@curtwuollet2912 That doesn't seem right at all. If I was you, I would give Lee a call...sounds like a warrantee issue. They might send you a new one. Something is restricted in the travel IMO.
I found that for fine powders like H110, the pistol size drums tend to leak less than the larger capacity drums with the plug inserted for smaller charges. Guessing the smaller diameter hole seals better. I also found fine powders dont always leak through edge, but works its way to gears an out the side of the arm mechanism. I rig a plastic sour cream container under the measure below thumb screw (using theLee powder measure riser to keep it above other dies) to catch the leakage. I also find running the turret around the cycle between drops 'settles' powder for more consistent measures.
Excellent video. Indirectly, it helped me put my auto drum back together and adjust it properly. The gear line up is a great tip on adjusting throws. It's a long story how I managed to get it in pieces! Also, great tips on using graphite. Thanks!
@3:11 I just purchased the lee classic turret press with the new auto drum powder measure and they seemed to have fixed the looseness between the neck of the dispenser and aluminum body.
I watched this again today and I took off the safety disconnect. As you said the danger of a squib is high with it on. The press is amazing vs my old single stage presses! What light are you using to observe the case powder level?
Glad you like the press! That light is a home brew. I had some LED strip left over from an under counter lighting project. The product has a pig tail that snaps onto the strip on contact points and you can cut the strip every few inches. Its 12VDC so I scrounged around in my forgotten electronic stuff and found a dc power supply, cut the connector off and wired it directly onto the pig tail. The strip is hot glued onto the under side of the turret housing. Hornady makes one that might work on the press with some creativity. www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Light-Strip/dp/B00AU6C4X0
This powder thrower does not work with benchmark powder. Without changing the "amount of charge", the charges were from 7 grams to 25 grams. I had to go back using my Lee Disk charger.
The Lee perfect powder measure is the only that works with a Brazilian made surplus powder called "BD521" (a double-based, thin lamellar square-cut powder)... Any other powder measure clogs up and give you very erratic measures.
I first had a turret like yours and the auto disk hated it then seen a Fortune cookie LC 45 and bought one with some extra drums Love it but with reloading and new equipment there is learning curve I load up the powder dispenser and manually spin it just once to me it helps me I have since gone to a dillion 550 just loaded 500 9 mm and the weight charge never varied also check out Fortune cookie LC 45 a reloaders friend
Great video, excellent info. Have watched a lot of your 300 BLACKOUT videos. Was looking through comments. I may have missed it. Do you put graphite on plastic drums?
Thanks for the comment! I do use graphite inside the metering area of the drum. I clean it with alcohol (something that wont harm plastic) I feel like this cuts down on static cling that can get bad during certain times of the year. Its not very durable though and when you make adjustments the coating gets scraped off.
When you removed the parts from the powder measure, you needed to replace the screw to its place where you removed it, Then you don't have to remember to keep that lever in the dump position.
I hope it works for you. One of the lessons we have learned over time. And I think I mentioned it in the vid. Dont over adjust the PM down to the case. It puts stress on the body of the PM and it can crack over time.
Maybe you can help with an issue I'm having. I have this thing set up properly and it is cycling as it should. However, as I start to lower the shell plate (raise the press handle) some powder sprays out from btween the powder thru charging die and the brass round. I give the powder sufficient time to drop. The drum itself is not leaking at all. I'm using Hodgdon H335 rifle powder on a Lee Loadmaster Progressive press. Any ideas???
Sorry just saw your comment. Im not getting notifications anymore for some reason. Anyway. Sounds like you are belling a pistol case with a nearly full load. This happens sometimes. Pulling the case back off of the neck belling powder through adapter can pop a little. You can try a little spray lube on the cases/case mouth so it releases smoother.
@@TreeTopFlier I'm actually having the issue with rifle powders, where the powder thru die isn't belling the case mouth. Either way, I'll take your suggestion. Thank you for the reply.
@@toothaik1 The rifle powder through dies are not designed to bell the mouth at all. The pistol powder through dies do but not the universal powder dies. The only time you should need to bell a rifle cartridge is if you are using oversized lead projectiles. We run into this some with 300 blackout, in which case Lee makes a universal flare tool for this. Otherwise, its sufficient to use a light chamfer on the inside of the case. I like Lyman vld tool.
@@TreeTopFlier Yes, I've been using a light chamfer inside the case as you recommend. Good to know about the Lee flare tool for the 300 Blackout. Bonus bit of info!
Long time listener, first time caller. Thanks for the educational videos. Question: for a long time I used the Dry Lube...until I ran out of it the other day and now is no longer in sale. What did you replace it with?
As far as I know, Homedepot still sells it. www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5-oz-Industrial-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-Spray-8-GS/202597501 The can has changed a little but to the best of my knowledge it's still an in-store product for them. I imagine Amazon.com has it as well. Thanks for sticking around!
@@TreeTopFlier thank you so much for the videos. The last time I went, they recommended the Blaster Dry Lube with PTFE instead of this. I'll go by later to pick up a replacement.
in your experience does the press and this new drum work for making match ammo consistently i shoot long range and wanna get a progressive press that won't break the bank also can this be used as a single-stage press like the breech lock challenger or no only progressive mode? like can it work for a single die just doing single stage work well or no ? thanks
The press can make very consistent ammo if you do your part. For match ammo or long range shooting you would want to hand weigh your powder to control variables.
Cool video. By-the-way... your scale was off not your powder load. Your scale kept bouncing from one measurement to another. Check your video. Thank you. Shoot lots and stay safe.
And for that reason is why I place my beam scale on a flat based pedestal, with a drilled and tapped 8-32 hole, through the scale body, 8-32 screw tightened to the base when zeroed.
Sorry, I will try to give instructions: First decide whether you are going to charge pistol cases or rifle cases. The unit ships with two drums, one for each. The deep metering chamber is for rifle and the shallow one is for pistol. Lets say we are doing pistol. Select the correct drum. Now you can either install it and tune it in or you can pre adjust it by measuring out the desired load by weight. Turn the adjuster on the selected drum counter clock wise till you have plenty of room for the powder you just measured. Poor your measured powder into the metering chamber then adjust the winged knob clockwise till the powder is flush with the drum face. This is a premeasurement. Install the drum, fill the hopper and start charging with a primed case. If you are using an electric scale you can put the case on the scale an hit zero. Using the same case you just zeroed keep taking charges into the case and weighing the case and powder. Because you zeroed on the case the value you read will be the powder charge the measure is throwing. clock wise for a smaller charge and CC for a larger charge. If your using a beam scale you will have to poor the contents of the case into a powder pan and weigh it that way. Hope this helps.
Yeah I think that new container design is a fail for Lee on the Auto Drum. Not being able to dump back into the hopper seems like it would be really annoying. I guess you could get use to it but......
When you weighed your .45 case and tared it out, the screen read -8.78, then it went to -8.79, then -8.78, then back again to -8.78. This may not be exact but it's what i could see on the video. So your bouncing back and forth was because of your scale changing.
new to reloading but...at 19:00, why are you cycling the turret around all the way every time? You arent dropping the ram all the way so you can simply go back up to recharge the case...no need to keep going around and around (for this step and video)and also...you keep saying 5.56 5.57... I keep seeing 5.6 and 5.7. What am i missing?
Great VIdeo!! Quick question. I am using a Lee Turret and priming with a hand primer and not the safety prime. Do you think I would still need a riser for the powder measure. Thinking of giving up my tried and true Perfect powder measure with powder measure adapter to automate the powder throws.
If you dont have a primer tray form the safety prime you should be fine. Some dies are taller than others and it may be nice to have it up higher in some instances but I would try it without first. Less is more.
Im getting a ton of stick on the pull down using 45 acp brass. Good throws, just enough expansion to seat a bullet but it requires way too much force to pry the brass loose from the powder-through expander. I noticed your pull looks like butter, what am i doing wrong?
Try some spray lube on the cases...oneshot or maybe some lanolin mix. If your using carbide dies you don't technically need lube, but I've found that a little lube really smooths out all the case sizing and belling operations.
they are carbide dies and its not a problem sizing just the flaring from the Lee Expander/powder-through. The hornady expander isn't as bad, but i've read maybe polishing the Lee expander would help. Did you use Case lube on these cases because i noticed you barely get a small catch on your upstroke
I did have a little lanolin on them. I was also using the same case over and over so after the first shot it had already been belled making it look easier than it would have been. Definitely polishing it with some 300-600 wet dry would make it smoother.
Thank you for your video and the commentary of the auto drum powder measure. i like how you have your setup with the Hornady swing arm. Do you know where you purchased it? I have been looking everywhere and can not find. Thank you
Man Im sorry, that is a stand that I made from plate steel and square tube steel. Not store bought. I talked about it in a earlier video but not very much in this one. I guess I need to make a video about it to show the parts. I just stuck that Hornady sticker on there because it came with the powder measure.
Hey Jason, sorry to hit you up again but wanted to let you know that things have changed a little and I decided to make and sell these stands if you're still interested here's the info. ua-cam.com/video/5zaLqyXWEUc/v-deo.html
TreeTopFlier . Thank you for contacting me back. Unfortunately I do not have the lee classic turret. I just really liked your stand. I have the step down lee turret.
Tough without seeing it first hand. The adjustment for a cartridge like that is to the desired flair with the powder measure installed. The proper rotation is kinda built in to the stroke. I suppose you may have the wing nut on the drum a little tight giving too much rotational drag? Try setting it for the flair you want and just test the accuracy of the throws by weighing them rather than visually determining if you're getting enough rotation.
I see. I will be setting up mine in a week or so. Hopefully all goes well. I appreciate all the videos you put out here. You should have more subscribers!
Apologies foe the multiple queries haha. I’ve fixed the problem with the connecting rod bending and the gear not turning completely. It had to do something with the disconnector. I removed it and made sure the connecting rod was “forward” as you mentioned here. It now throws a complete cycle. Thanks for all the tips, I appreciate it!
Sounds like you've done this before ;) What a great video! Do you find this powder measure suitable when the load is really ambitious and needs to be 100% accurate?
I wouldn't be able to say 100% I don't know of any mechanical powder measure that is that accurate. 100% ish accuracy would be using a powder trickler on a beam scale. This method would be suitable for range or bulk ammo. If your shooting out to 1000, you would want finer control over the charge weight.
No I sold a bunch of them over the years has a hobby craft item but the Biden admin cracking down on paypal payments adding up to over $600 bucks annually was the nail in the coffin. I never minded paying taxes but there was no way for me deduct my costs without establishing a business. Government kills innovation
That is a Lyman, it can use 110v or batteries. Really nice unit for the money IMO. ads.midwayusa.com/product/142513/lyman-micro-touch-electronic-powder-scale-1500-grain-capacity-110-volt?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-Lyman-_-142513&gclid=CjwKEAjwz9HHBRDbopLGh-afzB4SJABY52oFk64P89kT0XO-n6bsIHLySY8zeY2dndGDb-kvOBWkWxoCoLbw_wcB
The only problem with the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure is that it wobbles. There's no solid connection. So if you dropping powder your charge could be off by either 0.1 or 0.2 grns. When I first got the powder measure I had noticed it wobbling. I have a Lee LoadMaster. What would be your best suggestion to stop the powder measure from wobbling?. I have screwed on tight.
If your using it on a LoadMaster, I wouldnt think it wobbles around since it doesnt rotate like the turret press. If you are talking about it rocking when you insert the case into powder through die, that is usually because the case is bottoming out at the top of the stroke. overall, this is why I designed the #TTFPowderStand.
@@TreeTopFlier The wobbling is coming from the connection between the powder measure and the riser. It's not all one piece. I have tightened the screw that comes with the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure as much I as I can and it still wobbles. Is there anything I can do to stop the wobbling?. Do you have any suggestions. Your suggestions would be very helpful.
@Ernie Murdock sorry, no I don't have any suggestions if the thumb wheel screw is tight end all the warning the die that's all you get. The housing does rock a little on the mechanism. I will say in my testing even with the wobble the PM is capable of better accuracy than you described. If you watch all the way to the end of this video I give some tips using graphite to get better performance. I used the basic techniques just tofpday and got great results. All in all this stuff is part of the reason i build those powder stands for the turret presses.
Setting up the drum seems confusing.. You fill up the hole with a weighed charge and turn the key counter clockwise? until the powder level is flat across the hole?... Can some one explain this process step by step? Imma noob, and its one of the last things I'm learning before I get to cranking...
What they are saying, basically is, you can weigh out a load. Remove the drum, turn it up side down. Unscrew the metering screw to get space. Poor your weighed load in the cavity then screw the adjuster till the load comes up flush with the drum surface. This gives you a starting place. Dump the load then reassemble and take some charges, weigh, and make fine adjustments till your where you want to be. This is corny. I just fill the hopper and take a drop, start turning the knob till you get to the target. Hope this helps.
It wasn't touching but I do have it adjusted close to the bench for comfort. I'm intentionally short stroking the press just to rotate the dies in between taking measurements. I do this so the vibration settles the powder between drops, that way its the same when I actually start reloading and running the press as intended.
The problems with lee auto drum is it not too durable after the first 1000to 1500 round problems will appear. So you might think of purchasing 2 or 3 . I have gone Through three of them for the fourth one is just sitting on my shelf not worth purchasing
I respect the time taken to make the video BUT. I selected it to watch as I have just purchased one and was looking for help or verifying that I set it up correctly. Not sure why you delved into other Lee units and no clue why you talked about the Hornady. You also never showed HOW to adjust the charge size!
A fair criticism, I probably tried to fit too much into one video. I felt like I showed the most important part to know, which is how to make sure your getting full travel between the two types of powder through dies. I showed the two drums (pistol and rifle) and the adjustment knob but its true, I didnt show how to turn it in or out to change the volume of the charge. At the time of the video this was a fairly new product, so showing the other things on the market was just to give the viewer a point of reference to something they may have already used. If you have any questions, I would be happy to fill in the blanks.
You can get an aftermarket baffle from amazon www.amazon.com/Prairie-Dog-6-102-Perfect-Powder/dp/B00MIVA7IO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493600926&sr=8-2&keywords=lee+powder+baffle I bought it recently, but haven't used it yet.
Buyers beware !! After having to move the gear one tooth to allow a complete fill and empty, mine worked well for 1500 rounds until the link pin broke off the gear quadrant. I returned to the shop and exchanged for the sturdier, more accurate and reliable Auto Disc. Why Lee uses flimsy plastic linkages and a fragile monkey metal gear when they have such a lot to do is beyond reason. They simply aren't up to the job.
Could the pin have broken due to the travel being over maxed out? I have used and abused both this and the auto disc powder dispensers for over 15 years now with no problems, ever. This powder measure reminds me of my past Dillon unit, for principal and equal or better performance. I hold 1/2 of a tenth of a gram for accuracy at worst for use of IMR 700X.
@@madewithscraps Possibly. It wasn't operating properly out of the box due to the disc not travelling more than half way. Upon investigating I found the gear was one tooth out from where it should be. I corrected this and it worked perfectly for 1500 rounds before the pin sheared. I'm surprised the pin lasted as long as it did considering it's die cast metal measuring 1/8" diameter and protrudes about the same. A friend uses the manual Lee Perfect powder measure which he's very pleased with. Maybe I was unlucky with the auto one.
keeps holding things up to the camera to get a close-up but of course these things are hopelessly out of focus. if one cannot use a camera do not make videos.
The best video I’ve seen on the Lee Auto Drum. Very thorough and detailed but not too long.
Thank you!
Thank you, its getting a little old now but hopefully still useful
When I started reloading in the 70's we made baffles out of old credit cards.
Thank you. This helped me with a few issues I was having issues like powder leaks, setting the large powder drum to throw less powder with that plug, and setting the powder die.
At 70yo, I'm looking to get into reloading, so I can shoot more and as another hobby!
Thanks for your time and info, as Im looking at the Lee Classic Turret press and this powder loader
Stay SAFE and practice often
The turret press is a great option in my opinion. It gives you the one round at a time focus but automates the steps making it useful for higher volume rounds like 9mm. The auto drum is just the cherry on top of this affordable setup. If you get the kit you will want to add an electronic scale and a bullet puller right off the bat. Thanks for watching!
Regarding the white Safety Prime bracket that mounts to press.... use the black one that came with the press. Learned that today. Works much better. Lines up perfect!
Great video , I was having an issue with drum not doing a full rotation.The problem was a small grain of tubular powder stuck half way in the gears preventing them from full rotation.The powder was same colour as the metal very hard to see.Hope this helps some body else.
I need to revisit the first Auto Drum powder measure I bought 4 or 5 years ago. I had to send it back to Lee for something I forget. Anyway, I now have a new one I got with my BL Pro 4000. I will give it a go. Thanks for all the pointers.
Thank you! I have been using the Auto Drum for a while now and totally missed the the rifle drum can be converted to a pistol measure. I only load two pistol caliber loads and have been changing the one pistol drum each time I change caliber. I now have a second drum thanks to your video. Again, thanks.
Thank you!!, I just set up my pro 1000 for 233 with the lee auto drum and I was trying to figure out how to disable that disconnector.
great video.
Thanks
Instructions explain this.
Bro, your auto drum is operating so smoothly. Mine feels like its struggling to actuate.
Sorry I missed this comment! Not sure but I have brushed the contact area with graphite lube and I also do not run the drum knob very tight as that would add extra friction. Some people say it hard to draw the case out of the die/powder measure. This is because the case is getting stuck on the expander die (if its a pistol case). In this case you can, put a little case lube on the expander neck in the die and or reduce the belling. Hope you see this late post and it helps, thanks for watching.
I keep watching these reloading videos and everyone's press is rocking like crazy while mine has very little movement
If you're talking about the powder measure wobbling a little, I recently found out Lee added a small part years ago that acts as a shim that my very early version didn't have. In my latest video, I go over this, added the shim with the deluxe upgrade kit and my PM now runs rock solid.
Helpful video, thanks for sharing. Re: that disconnector, I removed mine as well. In my first attempts at using this, I noticed the drum not rotate in my loading. Then I weighed the next couple charges and found it had gone way light on the charges. I ended pulling the whole batch and found one squib. I'm so used to the dead on reliability of the auto disc that I guess I was spoiled a little. The first go-around also was leaking like crazy so I kept tightening the drum screw. Take-aways for me were: set the screw tightness on the drum and don't touch it afterward. Watch the throws more closely, and remove that flexy disconnector. My results today were much better, though the consistency still tends to wander between 4.4 and 4.6 grains (titegroup). My target being 4.5 grains to make power factor. 4.4 will make it, but with less cushion. I'm also removing the drum every 120-150 rounds now to check for buildup in places and to reset how tight the drum is installed. I found if you close the hopper valve, you can pop it off without spilling any thing. Then I unscrew the auto drum from the die and dump it into the hopper. Super easy compared to changing discs / disc sizes.
Great video. One suggestion, which I think is in the instructions for the Lee Auto Drum: After removing the linkage to disable the disconnector, re-insert the screw into the hole on the other side of the vertical arm. That will prevent the arm from engaging the "disconnect" function. I have a Hornady LNL-AP progressive press that I mainly use for pistol ammo. I find it to be a pain to have to swap out the rotor in the Hornady powder measure to load rifle ammo. I read some reviews on how well the "LAD" meters "stick" rifle powders and decided to use it for my rifle ammo. The measure only cost a little more than buying one Hornady powder measure die body (I have one of those for each cartridge I load using the LNL-AP measure). It does work well with the extruded powders but my "volume" rifle cartridge is .300 Blackout and the most popular powders are H110 and similar fine grained powders, so I'm dealing with the powder leakage that you mentioned.
Great comment, the first time i shot that part i did put the screw inthe hole...i didnt like how it came out so i shot it again and omitted that, so good catch!
These work pretty well but they are a real stinker for fine powders. Caused me to design a stand to mount a drum powder measure on the LCT press.
I called Lee about the powder leakage, they said the drum needs to be lapped in. I understand but haven't done it yet
Great video. I wish I had caught it earlier as a couple I've seen we're less informed. But I'll try anything reasonable in a pinch. Happy reloading
Thanks for the comment
Good to see another video from you! I was beginning to think you dropped of the face of the earth... lol Great video, TreeTopFlier! As always, very clear, concise, with lots of great information. I think I'm going to stick with my Lee Auto Disks. I have one for every caliber I use, that makes it quick and easy to swap calibers/setup. But it's always interesting and I always enjoy your videos. Thanks!
Good to hear from you. I have been doing a renovation on my house, so once you take a sledge to the kitchen, bath its head down and focus. I plan to get back into making videos now that I have the worst of it behind me. Thanks for your continued support.
Great information, Thank You!
I was surprised at how well it dropped Unique. I normally just drop light and trickle up to what I want with Unique.
The auto drum does a really good job with Unique powder and it is tough to meter. Thanks for watching!
To keep consistent weight on the powder within the hopper use a large washer with a hole in the center from which a string or a toilet chain can be attached to help remove it. Saw this year's back it seems to help...
I tried to make the point in the video that the Lee hopper has a large cavity with a small hole into a larger staging area. This is built in feature that eliminates the need for additional baffles by controlling the weight that can be applied by the reserve powder on the staging area powder. I haven't experienced the need for additional baffles.
Yes I caught that from your excellent video. It's some used for the cylindrical powers. Not sure if it works that well on flaked powers....not really a baffle the weight keeps helps flow.
Thanx 😊
@@hokehinson5987 My Bad, I read it, but pictured it wrong, I see what you're saying now 😏
Excellent video, I had just ordered one of these today! Great tips and thank you for such great in depth coverage!
Thanks for watching.
Good video Mr. TTF I just got one of these to replace my leaky disk drum loader. I'm researching all I can on the proper setup of my new unit so i don't break it. I like your idea of removing the disconnector/latch unit, think I'll be modifying mine. Good Information, I'll be watching your other videos
Sorry Im late on the reply. Thanks for the nice comment and thanks for watching!
I just ordered the perfect powder measurer, for my single stage press....
The perfect powder measure is a great tool. A little flimsy in construction but it really makes charging cases easy and accurate. Not sure it maintains its utility in a single stage press but it really shines in one of the turret presses.
Thanks for confirming H110 will leak from this one just as it does from the (otherwise quite aptly named) Perfect Powder measure + PP Deluxe measure. Good objective video, thanks for sharing.
You could put a wrap of thin tape on the bottom of the powder hopper and it would be snug when you pushed it on.
Best two things i got for my press was the Auto Drum and the RCBS powder cut out Die..I de-cap, clean primer pocket, and prime off the Press..so the Auto Drum is now Stage 1 ..the check out Die is Stage Two ..if theres a issue with the powder drop ,either none or part of or dbl charge , the Lockout Die Locks the Press from going any further
Nobe of this reaching over check for powder in the Case or attaching lights to shine in the case..it takes the guess work out of ..did i or didnt i ....i got mine from a Gun shop but noticed now on Amazon
Good information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Great video; exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for watching!
For the leakage, find a drum that doesn't leak and mark that for H110, W296 etc. There is a delicate balance between expansion and stroke. The manual advice to just tighten everything down overexpands the case mouths. Backing it off, you have to be careful that you still get a full stroke.
This is interesting comment. Ive heard others remark about over expanding and complete rotation but I havent had any issues. I even went out and re set some dies up just to see. In my case, I can thread the PM into the die and adjust the die to get more or less belling. In either case the case mouth is strong enough to over come the spring and rotate the drum without belling until the mechanism reaches the top of the travel, at which point the bell is accomplished. I can imagine, if the drum knob is too tight it might give enough frictional drag to over bell the case before reaching a full stroke, I dont know? Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@TreeTopFlier on my setup, even before the measure hit the stop, I was getting more bell than I needed for berry's plated. I got a batch of brass where that was causing splits. I don't mind tossing those cases, but of course that's after you inserted a precious primer.
@@curtwuollet2912 That doesn't seem right at all. If I was you, I would give Lee a call...sounds like a warrantee issue. They might send you a new one. Something is restricted in the travel IMO.
@@TreeTopFlier right now it's working well, but when I switch powders I'm gonna dig deeper.
I found that for fine powders like H110, the pistol size drums tend to leak less than the larger capacity drums with the plug inserted for smaller charges. Guessing the smaller diameter hole seals better. I also found fine powders dont always leak through edge, but works its way to gears an out the side of the arm mechanism.
I rig a plastic sour cream container under the measure below thumb screw (using theLee powder measure riser to keep it above other dies) to catch the leakage.
I also find running the turret around the cycle between drops 'settles' powder for more consistent measures.
Excellent video. Indirectly, it helped me put my auto drum back together and adjust it properly. The gear line up is a great tip on adjusting throws. It's a long story how I managed to get it in pieces! Also, great tips on using graphite. Thanks!
That's great Ken, glad it helped!
Great video...it helped me quite a bit to understand this device. Keep up the good work.
@3:11 I just purchased the lee classic turret press with the new auto drum powder measure and they seemed to have fixed the looseness between the neck of the dispenser and aluminum body.
Excellent video. Clear and concise as usual. Keep up the good work.
Thank you
Just got my Classic Turret kit. Thanks for the tips.
Your going to like it! Ive got a couple other videos you might like to check out for setting up dies. Thanks for watching.
I watched this again today and I took off the safety disconnect. As you said the danger of a squib is high with it on. The press is amazing vs my old single stage presses! What light are you using to observe the case powder level?
Glad you like the press! That light is a home brew. I had some LED strip left over from an under counter lighting project. The product has a pig tail that snaps onto the strip on contact points and you can cut the strip every few inches. Its 12VDC so I scrounged around in my forgotten electronic stuff and found a dc power supply, cut the connector off and wired it directly onto the pig tail. The strip is hot glued onto the under side of the turret housing. Hornady makes one that might work on the press with some creativity.
www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Light-Strip/dp/B00AU6C4X0
Thanks for the info not many on here that explain like he does
All with you on h110 and h380. But my little perfect powder measure doesn’t leak. I stay away from fine powders with the drum.
This powder thrower does not work with benchmark powder. Without changing the "amount of charge", the charges were from 7 grams to 25 grams. I had to go back using my Lee Disk charger.
Wow thats a huge variance. Something seems to be wrong with the mechanism. Thats not normal for any powder with this measure.
The Lee perfect powder measure is the only that works with a Brazilian made surplus powder called "BD521" (a double-based, thin lamellar square-cut powder)... Any other powder measure clogs up and give you very erratic measures.
Best review I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much, very nice of you to say.
I first had a turret like yours and the auto disk hated it then seen a Fortune cookie LC 45 and bought one with some extra drums
Love it but with reloading and new equipment there is learning curve
I load up the powder dispenser and manually spin it just once to me it helps me I have since gone to a dillion 550 just loaded 500 9 mm and the weight charge never varied also check out Fortune cookie LC 45 a reloaders friend
Great video, excellent info. Have watched a lot of your 300 BLACKOUT videos. Was looking through comments. I may have missed it. Do you put graphite on plastic drums?
Thanks for the comment! I do use graphite inside the metering area of the drum. I clean it with alcohol (something that wont harm plastic) I feel like this cuts down on static cling that can get bad during certain times of the year. Its not very durable though and when you make adjustments the coating gets scraped off.
I recall making a baffle like the hornady has and it solves the accuracy issue
When you removed the parts from the powder measure, you needed to replace the screw to its place where you removed it, Then you don't have to remember to keep that lever in the dump position.
The cleaning part of this video needs to be its own video. And spread out there!
Ive been thinking that too. Thanks for watching!
GOOD job! i will now purchase one
I hope it works for you. One of the lessons we have learned over time. And I think I mentioned it in the vid. Dont over adjust the PM down to the case. It puts stress on the body of the PM and it can crack over time.
i had one, it broke in a year , the plastic rod thing that activates the drum got stuck and wouldnt reset, it got bent up some how !
Call Lee, they have an excellent warrantee. They have never let me down... so far.
Maybe you can help with an issue I'm having. I have this thing set up properly and it is cycling as it should. However, as I start to lower the shell plate (raise the press handle) some powder sprays out from btween the powder thru charging die and the brass round. I give the powder sufficient time to drop. The drum itself is not leaking at all. I'm using Hodgdon H335 rifle powder on a Lee Loadmaster Progressive press. Any ideas???
Sorry just saw your comment. Im not getting notifications anymore for some reason. Anyway. Sounds like you are belling a pistol case with a nearly full load. This happens sometimes. Pulling the case back off of the neck belling powder through adapter can pop a little. You can try a little spray lube on the cases/case mouth so it releases smoother.
@@TreeTopFlier I'm actually having the issue with rifle powders, where the powder thru die isn't belling the case mouth. Either way, I'll take your suggestion. Thank you for the reply.
@@toothaik1 The rifle powder through dies are not designed to bell the mouth at all. The pistol powder through dies do but not the universal powder dies. The only time you should need to bell a rifle cartridge is if you are using oversized lead projectiles. We run into this some with 300 blackout, in which case Lee makes a universal flare tool for this. Otherwise, its sufficient to use a light chamfer on the inside of the case. I like Lyman vld tool.
@@TreeTopFlier Yes, I've been using a light chamfer inside the case as you recommend. Good to know about the Lee flare tool for the 300 Blackout. Bonus bit of info!
+1 re: your videos are EXCELLENT 👍.. Thanks !
Thank you, hope you get some use out of them.
Hello sir my question is which one is better drum or disk measure powder??
In my opinion, the drum is way better. There are some that will disagree lol
Long time listener, first time caller. Thanks for the educational videos. Question: for a long time I used the Dry Lube...until I ran out of it the other day and now is no longer in sale. What did you replace it with?
As far as I know, Homedepot still sells it. www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5-oz-Industrial-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-Spray-8-GS/202597501
The can has changed a little but to the best of my knowledge it's still an in-store product for them. I imagine Amazon.com has it as well. Thanks for sticking around!
@@TreeTopFlier thank you so much for the videos. The last time I went, they recommended the Blaster Dry Lube with PTFE instead of this. I'll go by later to pick up a replacement.
in your experience does the press and this new drum work for making match ammo consistently i shoot long range and wanna get a progressive press that won't break the bank also can this be used as a single-stage press like the breech lock challenger or no only progressive mode? like can it work for a single die just doing single stage work well or no ? thanks
The press can make very consistent ammo if you do your part. For match ammo or long range shooting you would want to hand weigh your powder to control variables.
Cool video. By-the-way... your scale was off not your powder load. Your scale kept bouncing from one measurement to another. Check your video. Thank you. Shoot lots and stay safe.
And for that reason is why I place my beam scale on a flat based pedestal, with a drilled and tapped 8-32 hole, through the scale body, 8-32 screw tightened to the base when zeroed.
Would have been nice if you would have actually showed how to set the powder charge up from scratch.
Sorry, I will try to give instructions: First decide whether you are going to charge pistol cases or rifle cases. The unit ships with two drums, one for each. The deep metering chamber is for rifle and the shallow one is for pistol. Lets say we are doing pistol. Select the correct drum. Now you can either install it and tune it in or you can pre adjust it by measuring out the desired load by weight. Turn the adjuster on the selected drum counter clock wise till you have plenty of room for the powder you just measured. Poor your measured powder into the metering chamber then adjust the winged knob clockwise till the powder is flush with the drum face. This is a premeasurement. Install the drum, fill the hopper and start charging with a primed case. If you are using an electric scale you can put the case on the scale an hit zero. Using the same case you just zeroed keep taking charges into the case and weighing the case and powder. Because you zeroed on the case the value you read will be the powder charge the measure is throwing. clock wise for a smaller charge and CC for a larger charge. If your using a beam scale you will have to poor the contents of the case into a powder pan and weigh it that way. Hope this helps.
Nice info good video .thanks
Thanks for watching!
The plug is actually for a smaller rifle charge, such as .223.
So the Lee Auto Drum powder measure doesn't do well with ball powder?
It is fine with the ball powders I've used. It's just the super fine powders like H110 that leak.
where did you get that swivel stand from ?
I used to make them, I dont anymore.
Great vid. BTW, do you need to get a riser?
The graphite doesn't affect the efficacy of the powder? And how much graphite too much?
I like that style of scale (silver, compact, and flat); which brand and model is that?
the new one does not have a lid on it you have to remove it to refill it
Yeah I think that new container design is a fail for Lee on the Auto Drum. Not being able to dump back into the hopper seems like it would be really annoying. I guess you could get use to it but......
When you weighed your .45 case and tared it out, the screen read -8.78, then it went to -8.79, then -8.78, then back again to -8.78. This may not be exact but it's what i could see on the video. So your bouncing back and forth was because of your scale changing.
Do you still make the powder measure stands I would like one for my Lee classic Tourette press
new to reloading but...at 19:00, why are you cycling the turret around all the way every time? You arent dropping the ram all the way so you can simply go back up to recharge the case...no need to keep going around and around (for this step and video)and also...you keep saying 5.56 5.57... I keep seeing 5.6 and 5.7. What am i missing?
Old video I know. But have you had good luck with CFE Pistol? What cartridges have you loading with it?
I use it in 7.62x25, 9mm, 10mm, 45ACP. It's my favorite for metering and velocity overall
Great VIdeo!! Quick question. I am using a Lee Turret and priming with a hand primer and not the safety prime. Do you think I would still need a riser for the powder measure. Thinking of giving up my tried and true Perfect powder measure with powder measure adapter to automate the powder throws.
If you dont have a primer tray form the safety prime you should be fine. Some dies are taller than others and it may be nice to have it up higher in some instances but I would try it without first. Less is more.
Im getting a ton of stick on the pull down using 45 acp brass. Good throws, just enough expansion to seat a bullet but it requires way too much force to pry the brass loose from the powder-through expander. I noticed your pull looks like butter, what am i doing wrong?
Try some spray lube on the cases...oneshot or maybe some lanolin mix. If your using carbide dies you don't technically need lube, but I've found that a little lube really smooths out all the case sizing and belling operations.
they are carbide dies and its not a problem sizing just the flaring from the Lee Expander/powder-through. The hornady expander isn't as bad, but i've read maybe polishing the Lee expander would help. Did you use Case lube on these cases because i noticed you barely get a small catch on your upstroke
I did have a little lanolin on them. I was also using the same case over and over so after the first shot it had already been belled making it look easier than it would have been. Definitely polishing it with some 300-600 wet dry would make it smoother.
Thank you for your video and the commentary of the auto drum powder measure. i like how you have your setup with the Hornady swing arm. Do you know where you purchased it? I have been looking everywhere and can not find. Thank you
Man Im sorry, that is a stand that I made from plate steel and square tube steel. Not store bought. I talked about it in a earlier video but not very much in this one. I guess I need to make a video about it to show the parts. I just stuck that Hornady sticker on there because it came with the powder measure.
Just uploaded a video about this stand if your interested .ua-cam.com/video/AUlUkpvauMs/v-deo.html
Hey Jason, sorry to hit you up again but wanted to let you know that things have changed a little and I decided to make and sell these stands if you're still interested here's the info. ua-cam.com/video/5zaLqyXWEUc/v-deo.html
TreeTopFlier . Thank you for contacting me back. Unfortunately I do not have the lee classic turret. I just really liked your stand. I have the step down lee turret.
Bummer, I don't have a pattern for that press base. Well, keep me in mind if things change, and thanks for watching!
I’m loading.44/40 but case flair to too extreme if I adjust the die to get a full throw. any ideas?
Tough without seeing it first hand. The adjustment for a cartridge like that is to the desired flair with the powder measure installed. The proper rotation is kinda built in to the stroke. I suppose you may have the wing nut on the drum a little tight giving too much rotational drag? Try setting it for the flair you want and just test the accuracy of the throws by weighing them rather than visually determining if you're getting enough rotation.
Is that powder container interchangeable with the one on the disk powder measure for turret press?
Parts of it are for sure.
GREAT TIPS
What is this little plastic Lock Nut Wrench for that comes with it?
Not sure, maybe it's for the new castelated breech lock bushings. They have a plastic wrench?
Have you tried titegroup/sport pistol on this drum? Worried they might not work with the powder measure.
Thanks!
No, sorry John, I havent. I use Unique and CFE Pistol.
I see. I will be setting up mine in a week or so. Hopefully all goes well. I appreciate all the videos you put out here. You should have more subscribers!
@@johnpaulsasotona9083 Thanks, I hope it goes well for you.
@UCSKqn-Rmj7gIaFMzL4AxZvA sounds like you are running the drum nut to tight. Lee recommends a paper drag method to gauge how tite.
Apologies foe the multiple queries haha.
I’ve fixed the problem with the connecting rod bending and the gear not turning completely. It had to do something with the disconnector. I removed it and made sure the connecting rod was “forward” as you mentioned here. It now throws a complete cycle.
Thanks for all the tips, I appreciate it!
Sounds like you've done this before ;) What a great video!
Do you find this powder measure suitable when the load is really ambitious and needs to be 100% accurate?
I wouldn't be able to say 100% I don't know of any mechanical powder measure that is that accurate. 100% ish accuracy would be using a powder trickler on a beam scale. This method would be suitable for range or bulk ammo. If your shooting out to 1000, you would want finer control over the charge weight.
I assume the stands are no longer available for purchase?
No I sold a bunch of them over the years has a hobby craft item but the Biden admin cracking down on paypal payments adding up to over $600 bucks annually was the nail in the coffin. I never minded paying taxes but there was no way for me deduct my costs without establishing a business. Government kills innovation
What brand of scale is that? I've been looking for a small scale that plugs in instead of using batteries.
That is a Lyman, it can use 110v or batteries. Really nice unit for the money IMO.
ads.midwayusa.com/product/142513/lyman-micro-touch-electronic-powder-scale-1500-grain-capacity-110-volt?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-Lyman-_-142513&gclid=CjwKEAjwz9HHBRDbopLGh-afzB4SJABY52oFk64P89kT0XO-n6bsIHLySY8zeY2dndGDb-kvOBWkWxoCoLbw_wcB
The only problem with the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure is that it wobbles. There's no solid connection. So if you dropping powder your charge could be off by either 0.1 or 0.2 grns. When I first got the powder measure I had noticed it wobbling. I have a Lee LoadMaster. What would be your best suggestion to stop the powder measure from wobbling?. I have screwed on tight.
If your using it on a LoadMaster, I wouldnt think it wobbles around since it doesnt rotate like the turret press. If you are talking about it rocking when you insert the case into powder through die, that is usually because the case is bottoming out at the top of the stroke. overall, this is why I designed the #TTFPowderStand.
@@TreeTopFlier The wobbling is coming from the connection between the powder measure and the riser. It's not all one piece. I have tightened the screw that comes with the Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure as much I as I can and it still wobbles. Is there anything I can do to stop the wobbling?. Do you have any suggestions. Your suggestions would be very helpful.
@Ernie Murdock sorry, no I don't have any suggestions if the thumb wheel screw is tight end all the warning the die that's all you get. The housing does rock a little on the mechanism. I will say in my testing even with the wobble the PM is capable of better accuracy than you described. If you watch all the way to the end of this video I give some tips using graphite to get better performance. I used the basic techniques just tofpday and got great results. All in all this stuff is part of the reason i build those powder stands for the turret presses.
Thanks.
Setting up the drum seems confusing.. You fill up the hole with a weighed charge and turn the key counter clockwise? until the powder level is flat across the hole?... Can some one explain this process step by step?
Imma noob, and its one of the last things I'm learning before I get to cranking...
What they are saying, basically is, you can weigh out a load. Remove the drum, turn it up side down. Unscrew the metering screw to get space. Poor your weighed load in the cavity then screw the adjuster till the load comes up flush with the drum surface. This gives you a starting place. Dump the load then reassemble and take some charges, weigh, and make fine adjustments till your where you want to be. This is corny. I just fill the hopper and take a drop, start turning the knob till you get to the target. Hope this helps.
Will this work with pro 1000?
Yes, in fact I think it ships with it in some versions.
Do you need the riser die AND the charging die or just need either/or?
You may get by without it in some pistol applications but it would probably have better clearance with it.
@@TreeTopFlier thank you
do you coat your auto drum with graphite also?
Everything below the hopper.
@@TreeTopFlier thanks
I have the same scale, and man its a PITA. It bounces around too much.
Adjust your handle its touching the table! Thats why your turning the dies!
It wasn't touching but I do have it adjusted close to the bench for comfort. I'm intentionally short stroking the press just to rotate the dies in between taking measurements. I do this so the vibration settles the powder between drops, that way its the same when I actually start reloading and running the press as intended.
The problems with lee auto drum is it not too durable after the first 1000to 1500 round problems will appear. So you might think of purchasing 2 or 3 . I have gone Through three of them for the fourth one is just sitting on my shelf not worth purchasing
What breaks on them. Also, Lee has a pretty good warranty. They have replaced every broken part Ive ever had.
Put a wrap or two around the bottom of that powder measure with electrical tape & it will be snug.
There are obvious work a rounds, I just wanted to show it in its native state.
The hopper on my auto drum fits snugly.
Push that black thing forward and put the screw back in
I respect the time taken to make the video BUT. I selected it to watch as I have just purchased one and was looking for help or verifying that I set it up correctly. Not sure why you delved into other Lee units and no clue why you talked about the Hornady. You also never showed HOW to adjust the charge size!
A fair criticism, I probably tried to fit too much into one video. I felt like I showed the most important part to know, which is how to make sure your getting full travel between the two types of powder through dies. I showed the two drums (pistol and rifle) and the adjustment knob but its true, I didnt show how to turn it in or out to change the volume of the charge. At the time of the video this was a fairly new product, so showing the other things on the market was just to give the viewer a point of reference to something they may have already used. If you have any questions, I would be happy to fill in the blanks.
You can get an aftermarket baffle from amazon
www.amazon.com/Prairie-Dog-6-102-Perfect-Powder/dp/B00MIVA7IO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493600926&sr=8-2&keywords=lee+powder+baffle
I bought it recently, but haven't used it yet.
FOCUS!!!!!!!! Eyecancer :(
It's a great concept but it's made of plastic and won't last.If it were made of metal it would probably be the best, but then the cost".
Buyers beware !! After having to move the gear one tooth to allow a complete fill and empty, mine worked well for 1500 rounds until the link pin broke off the gear quadrant. I returned to the shop and exchanged for the sturdier, more accurate and reliable Auto Disc. Why Lee uses flimsy plastic linkages and a fragile monkey metal gear when they have such a lot to do is beyond reason. They simply aren't up to the job.
Could the pin have broken due to the travel being over maxed out? I have used and abused both this and the auto disc powder dispensers for over 15 years now with no problems, ever. This powder measure reminds me of my past Dillon unit, for principal and equal or better performance. I hold 1/2 of a tenth of a gram for accuracy at worst for use of IMR 700X.
@@madewithscraps Possibly. It wasn't operating properly out of the box due to the disc not travelling more than half way. Upon investigating I found the gear was one tooth out from where it should be. I corrected this and it worked perfectly for 1500 rounds before the pin sheared. I'm surprised the pin lasted as long as it did considering it's die cast metal measuring 1/8" diameter and protrudes about the same. A friend uses the manual Lee Perfect powder measure which he's very pleased with. Maybe I was unlucky with the auto one.
I just sold one of each of those measures on Ebay for cheap. Good riddance...
keeps holding things up to the camera to get a close-up but of course these things are hopelessly out of focus. if one cannot use a camera do not make videos.
Its not as good as it could be. I should probably fire my production crew.
Talk too much,
Probably true.
Wasted $200 on this kit..total junk..stop recommending this stuff please.
Are you afraid someone will hear what you say?