RV Water Filtration Systems
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- More details: www.trekwithus...
RV Water Filtration is important. Filters keep dirt, sediment, and even cysts from entering your RV and clogging up your water using appliances including your water heater, sinks, toilet, and shower. RV Water Filtration also supplies you with cleaner drinking water, and removes some or all of the chlorine, which is bad for your skin and bad to breath while showering.
We have a 3 canister water filter system complete with a Watts 263A-LF adjustable water pressure regulator with pressure gauge.
We always run a 5 micron or smaller particle/sediment filter in addition to a carbon filter to remove chlorine and bad taste.
If you part-time or vacation in your RV, make sure to use cartridges that are 'bacteriostatic' as that means they won't grow bacteria or algae when not in use.
If you full-time, you can use 'standard' household cartridges as they'll have enough water movement that bacteria and algae won't be able to grow.
Excellent information and presentation. Please do more videos showing other items that you use and why you chose them !!!
Will do - thanks!
How often would you recommend running water through the system to keep non kdf filters from growing bad bacteria if you only camp and run water 2 or 4 days a month? I'm using 20 micron, 10 micron, and 1 micron filters. Hooking this system up this weekend at the beginning of the inlet of city water hookup since I don't plan on using any water from the tank.
Very informative what about adding a uv light after the filters to kill the bad bacteria I'm seeing more and more coach owners using them.
Great share! Might you make a video describing all of the items stored on the shelf above your water filtration system. Your reason for having each item would be most appreciated and very helpful. MANY THANKS!
+MrMCBvideo Great idea - I will do that, but it will be a little bit.
Wonderful. We look forward to watching it. Thanks!
Hi and thanks I don't have a RV yet but I getting one soon this will help me out thank again.
@Paul- What charcoal filter did you use? All filters have a max GPM (gallon per minute) rating, and I've found that anything over 3gpm - even 2.5 is fine. Some filters are rated for less and require that you fill your fresh water tank, then pump water from there to get decent pressure. I don't use any that are that restrictive.
Great video, however I believe that placement of the water pressure regulator at the inlet of a RV water filtration system is a mistake. This is common to the majority of videos I've seen on this topic. Why not place the water pressure regulator immediately ahead of the RV's City Water inlet? You're protecting the RV's water system from high pressure, right? Consider the following: 1) whole-house water filters are designed for city water pressure, 2) each connection and bend in a plumbing system has its own pressure drop, 3) water filters each have their own pressure drop which increase as particles are collected, 4) each pressure drop within a system is additive, yielding a system pressure drop ranging from only a few psi to several psi, 5) filtered water entering a water pressure regulator prolongs its life and can help maintain a sanitary external appearance despite intermittent leaks.
Some tips: to maximize water flow to your RV's system, carry a 25' and a 50' 5/8" connecting hose and use the shortest one to connect to city/park water. Use only high-flow, ball type valves and only 5/8" fittings. Use only one screen and locate it at the hose bib. Of course, be sure to regularly change your water filters. Installation of a differential pressure gage between the inlet and outlet of your water filtration system can help you decide when to change your filters. Wrap all hose and system threads with PTFE tape. This avoids anaerobic corrosion and facilitates connection/disconnection and leak mitigation.
Hi there - believe it or not, I've had RV park water pressure high enough that water was spraying out of where the canisters connect - even with new seals. Some RV parks have their own water pumps or water towers, and depending where you are water pressure can be over 100psi. In an ideal world I'd put the water pressure regulator right at the spigot - to protect the hose from high pressure. I've seen plenty of water hoses blow out in the past few years, and fortunately never have it happened to me. Anyway - that's why. Your mileage may vary - good luck!
All good points. However, I run the adjustable PRV at the faucet before the hose then set the pressure 5 psi more that what I want in the RV (due to friction loss in lines). I do this because if you have a "hot" (lots of pressure) domestic supply coming in, you can subject your water hose to very high pressure which can exacerbate leaks, and if you leave your coach on a hot day and don't turn off your water at the hose bib, then heat can increase that already high pressure in the water hose causing a leak. I have had to turn off many broken hoses on neighboring campers over my 35 years of RVing. I have been full timing for 8 years, and currently use a 5 micron carbon block particle filter followed by a drinking water filter in my residential refrigerator. I check my filters by testing for TDS ppm, PH, and water softness in my coach.
Great video!! Have you test the water ?? After ??
Thank you for the great information.
So .... I am a snowbird in Arizona and the water in our park is very hard it won't kill you to drink it but it's got a nasty flavor . so we purchase drinking water and buy ro water for coffee ect.
My question is , with a system like yours would the water be good to drink and how does this work in conjunction with a water softener? And would a water softener be needed with this system ?
Hi There - yes, use a water softener. We purchased the small 'On The Go' system (amzn.to/2DwqVwx) and it dramatically improved our water quality. It's easy to flush - just a 39 cent container of salt every few weeks. I recommend putting the water softener before the filtration (we did) as that keeps the filters from getting gunked up with hard water.
As far as 'Would the water be good to drink' with a system like ours - it's possible, but I have no way to know without testing your water. We've had very good tasting water everywhere we've gone (including in Arizona) because of our filtration system, so yes, I think it would fix your issue. Good luck!
Nice set up.
What would recommend for part time RVers who want whole RV water filtration? Our season is approximately 5 months.
Super helpful video - thank you!
I use the cheap Camco filters (@ the faucet, 20 micron) in front of my house filters(5 and 0.5 mics). Mine clog up too. Throw away, spin on a new one...Doing their job? 05:30
Might it be better to mount the pressure regulator/valve "after" the filter canisters and let them operate at the RV park's normal pressure? The canisters should be able to handle such pressures, along with its input feeder lines if properly sized. I say this as I'd think that going through multiple filters would typically lower the water's pressure.... and it might be useful to maximize this if the park's pressure was already lower than your regulator's setting. What am I missing here? AGAIN, THANKS.
+Tony Stratton - In general you'll be fine either way. It was easier for me to mount the pressure regulator before based on where I mounted the water filters - but it's fine to put it after. The key is to regulate pressure before the water enters your RV's water lines - as internal RV water lines are not designed for high-pressure (80+psi). Also, the filters we use have a pretty minimal impact on water pressure - although there are some speciality filters where this may be a bigger issue.
I am pondering installing one of these filters inside my coach, under a bunk. Do you see any leaks from your setup?
It certainly can and has leaked. If the seal is screwed on just wrong, or not tight enough, or if the water pressure is too high we've had it leak a few times here and there. I was always able to fix it, but in the meantime water sprayed everywhere.. Also, if you had one installed under a bunk, then every time you changed filters or cleaned it you'd get a lot of things wet. So maybe install a bucket under/around the filter? It definitely can be done either way.
Trek With Us thx for the info.
Hi
I just wanted to suggest if you use 5 micron then a 1 micron then lastly the carbon filter as you do have 3 filters and you said you only use 2. Also using the 1 micron before the carbon filter would really increase the life of the carbon filter.
Also if you add another 55 pressure valve on the exit side after the carbon end that would further be a safety backup.
Happy RVing :)
Hi Jiwan - I've considered using 2 stages of particle filters - either a 10 or 5 micron, then a 1 or .5 micron, then carbon. Even using just the 5 micron helps the carbon filters last significantly longer. As far as pressure, I think the one pressure regulator is sufficient - especially considering that the filters lower the pressure a bit more. I do wish I could find an in-line 60 - 65psi pressure regulator that I could install right at the post to protect the hose though. To my knowledge no-one makes one - they're all around 45 - 50psi and we like slightly higher water pressure than that. Thanks!
You referenced Camco as being a 100-micron filter. Yes, they do have this, but they also have a 5-micron external in-line filter. Have you tried this? What is the impact of the RV's water system with their 5-micron filter? Pressure? Flow rate? Purity? MANY THANKS.
+Tony Stratton Hi Tony - I haven't used the Camco 5-micron, however we use 1-micron filters, and they have minimal impact on water pressure and flow rate. The 1-microns definitely pull a lot of garbage out of the water, as I've had city water turn the filter from bright white to brown in a week!
Pumped R/O units are 1 to 1 ratio and you can get different size units that are for gallons per day.😉
@phục êwê costway 5 stage ultra safe reverse osmosis drinking water filter system @ walmart.com is the one I use.👍
A question about winterizing....do you leave your filter canisters attached and filled with antifreeze or do you remove and dump them for winter storage? Thanks.
Hi there - we don't winterize as we full time, but if I did I'd remove the canisters entirely, and dump/wash them for storage. Seems the easiest/best - and I also prefer blowing out the lines with an air compressor v. the pink antifreeze, but that's a personal preference.
Very informative; Thanks!
very informative- thank you,sir
Thank you, very informative
Thanks for that, Really good stuff.
Good info, thanks. Agree about RO filters being so wasteful.
I'm considering the idea of a greywater recycling system. Do you think that I would need to add any other filtration if I used the filters you do, in combination with a UV filter?
Hi Tim - Do you mean the graywater from your tank? That sounds like a bad idea. In theory you'd need more particle filtration and something that could remove soap residue. I think a reverse osmosis system is the only thing I'd trust.
@@Trekwithus I mean, greywater would stay greywater and would only ever be used to flush, shower, or possibly dishes - and in each case, I would think the fact that it's soapy wouldn't matter. But I would think that killing any potential bacteria would be key.
Anyway, thanks for your feedback. I'll look into reverse osmosis.
@@TimG... Well - there's a difference between using it to flush - and using it to wash - and then again to using it to wash dishes. Soap residue in the water would make it a little less useful for rinsing - but to your point, if you're not drinking it it doesn't matter as much. I think the biggest issue with gray water is it tends to be pretty dirty. More than you'd think. Most filters will get overwhelmed quickly by the amount of dirt and gunk that we wash off ourselves, our dishes, and our hands daily. But hey - it's worth testing. Good luck!
Is there a reason why you would not put the pressure monitor at the other end of your filter system it seems that you would want to regulate the pressure after it went to the filter system. Do you find that the filters drop the water pressure in your RV. Thanks
I've tested it both ways, and as long as you're using relatively high-flow filters (3gpm+), it doesn't make much difference in water flow if you put the pressure regulator before or after. I put the water pressure regulator before the water filtration as the water canister seals start to give out over time, and they last longer (and are less likely to leak) with less water pressure.
Trek With Us - out of interest, would it make sense to put the pressure regulator in the middle of the filtration? Say, after the first canister. That way only the first canister handles the higher pressure and the pressure regulator wouldn't clog up?
I wouldn't, and here's why. The canister seals are only just so good. In parks with high water pressure it's almost impossible to tighten them enough to stop them from leaking. By putting the water pressure regulator before the canisters (and ideally before the hose) you keep high water pressure from damaging/cracking your canisters (and hose).
Very helpful, thank you!!
I watched the video but I dont recall you saying anything in reference to RO filtration, is this filter an RO filter? Could you add an RO filter to the RV if this is not one? I have a small RO filter that I use in my house however it takes about 1 hour to make 5 gallons so I'm wondering if there is an RV specific unit that will product large amounts of RO water in a short amount of time or at least fast enough to be "usable" in an RV.
+helloman1976 Yep, you did mention it...14:30...my bad. Thanks!
+helloman1976 Glad you caught it - RO filtration does require more than just a filter, as it's a membrane that you need to force water through - then dispose of the 'brine' water (more than half of the total water goes to waste). I think it's overkill for a whole RV solution, but they have under sink systems that you can run just the cold water through, so you have RO filtered drinking and cooking water. Good luck!
+Trek With Us If you installed the under-sink system, which I'm familiar with also, how much stress would that put on your water pump and would your water pump survive that without getting so hot it melts the core?
+helloman1976 Good question - I know some RO systems require an auxiliary pump designed for the system. You could also upgrade your factory water pump to a better/stronger unit. Richard at The RV Water Filter Store can probably help you with that - he really knows his stuff.
+Trek With Us Thanks, maybe I'll just design one and build it myself....it's super easy. I can install a booster pump with no issues also and run it off the same switch as the water pump. I can't wait to move into my RV full time!
Great Video, Thanks!
Thank you sir i live on a piece of property with only well water and its very hard water i need to figure the cheapest way to filter my system due to how hard the water is your knowledge is great help
I am curious, after you set the Watts water pressure gauge at 55 psi, do you have a sense what the psi rating is after the water has passed through the three filters and enters the hose that leads to your tank? Thanks!
It depends on the type of filters used - but in general the water filtration doesn't cause much (if any) pressure drop.
Thank you! We visited the on-line store you referenced. They have a wonderful inventory. Thanks for that link. They sell Ultra-violet versions of the three canister design. Do you have any experience with Ultra-violet filtration and/or know someone who has gone this route successfully or unsuccessfully? Most appreciated!!!
+MrMCBvideo From what I undrrstand, ultra violet only helps with Viruses and pathogens. it's not something I'd worry about if you stay in the US - but if you go to Mexico or Central/South America it's a very good idea.
Thanks So Much for your input.
Wonderful information thank you.
I have a question, Would this system work in freezing temperatures without some kind of protection or is this a warm climate option only.
Hi Sally - In general RVs don't work well in freezing temperatures. That said, we've used it in freezing temperatures - but just overnight. I wouldn't use it in consistently freezing temperatures or else a canister is likely to freeze and crack (water expansion upon freezing). You can get around that a little by leaving a faucet dripping so theres some water flow (watch your holding tanks!). Good luck.
@@Trekwithus If you have big enough solar or endless power, a warm light over the filter panel will keep it from freezing. It's the rest of your system you'll have to worry about. Leaving a faucet dripping in an RV if not hooked to city water then you'll be MT of water by morning!
Heater tape will also work but that's another power eater! Air duct from the heater?? Hopefully it's a windy area and you have a wind turbine generating that power!
Your engineering skills and everyone else that RVs in freezing temps skills is whats going to keep that system from freezing! ;)
Or head way south!
But thanks for the tip on who sells the 2 bank system!
Excuse me. Could you please explain the exact meaning of "RV"? Thanks in advance.
RV = Recreational Vehicle.
@@Trekwithus Thank you.
What about running the 5 micron, than 1 micron, than carbon?
You can - and I tried it for a while. Mostly you end up replacing a lot of 5 micron filters and some 1 microns, vs. just replacing 1 micron filters. I didn't want to have to carry 2 different filters, so just stuck with the 1 micron. Either way you'll go through about the same number of filters - and the net result (filtered to 1 micron) is the same.
Thank you! I have contacted RVwaterFilterStore.com. They are really set up for RVers and the price is lower than expected.
We have an on demand R/O unit that is 95% efficient. We use it just for drinking/cooking water. Check out Aerus Electrolux!
Do you drink the water that comes through your system?
Hi Michelle - absolutely we do. The source water is usually city water and after it's filtered it tastes fine.
Interesting video. Our newly discovered problem after our first visit to Arizona is calcium gumming up our toilet sprayer. We have completely taken the toilet out twice now to blast huge chunks of calcium out of the spray mechanism. This is a PIA! I don't like water softeners, and like you, I think RO wastes a lot of water, so that's out. Any suggestions on how to eliminate the calcium problem , or at least seriously limit it? Thanks.
The best way to fix it temporarily is to rinse out your water heater. I made a video about this as well, and you can see all the chunks coming out of the heater: ua-cam.com/video/FetCP9Bi22g/v-deo.html. You can also try using a phosphate water filter. They're designed to prevent calcium and lime buildup - but I haven't tried one yet myself.
I rinse our water heater our twice a year with one of those wand things. All kinds of crap comes out. But, the toilet problem doesn't benefit from the water heater clean out since the toilet flushes with plain water from the fresh water tank (though when we first got our trailer, pipes were messed up and the toilet flushed with hot water!). I'm going to do a search for a phosphate water filter and see what I can find. Thanks.
MrTommy001 RV Geeks has a video where they show you inside water heater and how to use vinegar to clear it. It is a must watch. Saved my water heater!
Install the pressure regulator after the filtration system therefore it won't get clogged
Hi Bob - in general the pressure regulators get clogged due to hard water minerals that the filtration system can't remove. Ideally you'd use a portable water softener to combat this - however I've had the top O-ring of my water softener blow out due to too much park water pressure. Same with my water filtration system. The only way to prevent that in some parks is to put the pressure regulator first.
Most motor homes have a built in pressure regulator, did you remove it? Good video thanks.
Hi Ray - I've never seen an RV with a built in water pressure regulator. Perhaps some of the high-end diesel pushers include one, but I haven't seen such a thing on a Class C, 5th Wheel, or Travel Trailer. That's why a basic pressure regulator is included in the 'welcome box' you receive when you buy an RV. Are you sure you're thinking of a pressure regulator vs. a water pump or something similar?
Many of the water inlet valves have a 65 psi regulator check amazon SHURFLO (183-029-18) White City Wall Mount Pressure Regulated Water Entry .. thanks again for the video.
Ray J Hi Ray - thanks for your reply. I (obviously) had no idea that some of the inlet valves have a pressure regulator built in, so thanks for the heads up! I'll check ours and see if it's got the pressure regulator or not. I'm also not sure how good they are compared to an inline regulator, so I'll have to do some homework. At any rate, thanks again for the info - I learn something new every day! :-)
Trek With Us I am still planning on installing a regulator like your's. I can turn it up to 65psi which is plenty of pressure for us. Keep the videos coming.
What's your PPM reader reading on your water?
Hi Dumpin - I haven't tested the water with a PPM reader because the results will change depending on the source water and we normally move every 2 weeks. If I do get one I'll run some tests and post them here.
Did those shelves come with the RV?
Yes they did - It's a unique layout. Our RV has a mini-garage in the back.
Boy!great vid!
Thanks Ed!
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