Basically the same way i start my electric choked firebird! Awesome, thanks for the great video, i wanted to get a race carb for better flow but was worried about cold starts, looks like its no big issue
"It's a combo of having everything tuned correctly, and a competent person behind the wheel working the machine. If you lack either of those, then EFI is for you there brother👌🏻😂"
Killer video man, I’m getting ready to fire off my 421 carbureted sbc for the first time in my actual car and not on the dyno. Pretty pumped. However: it’s super cold here in Massachusetts so I picked up an oil pan blanket heater and a lower radiator hose heater/circulator by gravity to get it warm before I prime the oil pump. This video will help me a lot. Thanks again 👍🏼🙌🏼
Great video, I've been in the habit of cranking over til i get oil pressure, anytime my car sits over a week...then 2 pumps of accelerator and 1/8 throttle.....verooom
I love this guys humor, but i didn't learn anything from this. I also don't agree with his "cold start", that was just starting it. So its click bait. But the comedy was gold! Great humor brother!
I’m hoping my e85 carb with cold start this good. Xp750 e85. On a 13:1 421. It been sitting on the engine stand fully assembled for like 8 mths and I’m to flipping lazy to start putting it in my s10. To many projects bro. Thanks for the videos man I enjoy em.
Heads up! Ran that exact air filter on my 383 stroker and after one summer it started breaking up on the top end from sucking in filter material. Was very disappointed :(
I have a 383 stroker motor on my c10 with an edlebrock 750 and i have the vacume pump welded with the mechanical choke so all i do is turn the engine over for a couple seconds then give it a couple pumps and starts right on with the choke on at perfect warming idle then i give it a quick rev when its warm to go back to idle
I am glad it helped, 90% of the time plugs get all black and foul out is because the idle is too low along with the idle air screws are adjusted to far out. This will cause the motor to load up just cruising around.
I had similar carb and I would floor it to the floor one time and it start ever time getting that timing dead on and carb set perfect it start just with pump from both squirts
Hey how’s it going. So my car, (306 sbf, h/c/i, Brawler vac secondary carb but no choke, 18 deg initial/36 total by 3k rpm), doesn’t do that great with cold starts. I’ll pump it, it’ll turn on, and I have to pedal/feather the throttle from time to time otherwise it’ll die - even if I try to keep my pedal steady at 2k rpm. Once it gets to temp (170 to 180 degrees) it’ll idle fine, but before then it’ll want to die and it’ll kinda I guess “sputter” as I’m feathering that gas pedal. What adjustments would you suggest so I can get it where it needs to be? Not sure how far out my idle mix. screws are, but once it’s at temp it’ll idle at 13.7-14.3 on my wideband.
Like me 2 pumps and a squirt 😂😂😂 Yeah I pump mine 2 or 3 times and it usually fires up just need to sit in it for a bit ... But it is a little more forgiving since I changed to a wide center lobe turbo cam Still has like 240 @50 but my center lobe is 115 only about .510 lift and duration 276 but it seems to work ... My buddy with the Chevelle has about the same but 235 @50 and that one runs in the single digits with a hanger18 how brew carb nothing fancy 👍🏻👍🏻
Love this video. Where are you from. I’m newerish to carbs. I been around them my whole life with my grandpa and his classics but tuning them I’m new and need someone to hands on tech me I’m running a 650 demon on a 468 bbc which I believe now I need a 750 or an 850. It’s running way way rich. At idle. And throttle. Just rich. Any tips. Thanks you. Michael
Exactly the way I been starting my 565 BBC with 1250 Dominator. However, the other day, it was about 50 degrees and the car hadnt been started for a few weeks. I just gave it a half pump, then held throttle open about 25%. Started almost immediately. Had to feather it for about a minute to keep it running. AFR was at 19 if I let off! Now, I just have to get some kind of oil heater for next cold start after its been sitting for months. I run 20-50 oil and have an aluminum pan.
Yeah there's nothing wrong with carburetors. Today's generation is all about easy. I love the on the spot tune, with carbs. Nothing wrong with fuel injection either but you gotta do to many trips to a tuner and that = money.
Unless it’s an 80s Shitbox with 14 different types of plugs, wires, and an Rochesters you have to smack with a mallet before you start it 😂😂 haha good video though for people that don’t have a clue
Ok I was just wondering I have a 400 in my s10 . I have a 750 on it now. I'm only running 10.3 compression with Afr 195 street eliminator heads with a hydraulic roller.
This is NOT how to start a cold carbed engine. You are killing your bearings by cranking it till you get oil pressure. Your engine needs oil pressure AND VOLUME asap to survive and an engine that see's 1000+ rpm's in 2 seconds is going to last a hell of a lot longer than one that cranks for 30 seconds waiting for oil pressure. Not to mention oil pressure gained by cranking the starter has no where near the volume of an engine spinning at 1000 rpm's. Plug readings taken at an idle are useless. There are way to many variables for them to give you any valuable information. Too each there own, start YOUR motor however you wish. I've been building tuning and racing carbed engines for 4 decades and I would never recommend cranking an engine untill you see oil pressure on the gauge. Unless I had stock in the clevite bearing company.....
Humm that is interesting. My bearings on all my motors have told a different story and I could have probably even reused them. Here are some tuning videos I have made below… Please help is encouraged…
On a high compression motor It's better to do this while it's spinning. Because if you don't, the majority of the fuel will drain to the rear cylinders causing a hard start situation. The starter will barely turn it over. It's always better to turn it over then pump because the fuel is more evenly distributed to all the cylinders.
Humm… combustion load vs just compression stroke load for oil pressure. 🤔 I have never seen such evidence on any of my motors when I take them apart. The bearings look fine and the honing marks are still visible. The only time I have seen unwanted wear is when the motor was hurt from a race and the wrist pins froze up due to a bad N2o tune-up.
Love this guy. Seems like a real down to earth gearhead.
I was raised in a trailer park that's about as down to earth as it gets.😆
Basically the same way i start my electric choked firebird! Awesome, thanks for the great video, i wanted to get a race carb for better flow but was worried about cold starts, looks like its no big issue
"It's a combo of having everything tuned correctly, and a competent person behind the wheel working the machine. If you lack either of those, then EFI is for you there brother👌🏻😂"
Anything that'll prevent frustration works for me. Thanks, JD
Killer video man, I’m getting ready to fire off my 421 carbureted sbc for the first time in my actual car and not on the dyno. Pretty pumped. However: it’s super cold here in Massachusetts so I picked up an oil pan blanket heater and a lower radiator hose heater/circulator by gravity to get it warm before I prime the oil pump. This video will help me a lot. Thanks again 👍🏼🙌🏼
Yes Sir been doing this with my Big Block for years , good to see others doing it as well , well done champ 💪😁🇭🇲
Nice looking engine bay!😊
Great video, I've been in the habit of cranking over til i get oil pressure, anytime my car sits over a week...then 2 pumps of accelerator and 1/8 throttle.....verooom
In Canada I use a heating pad attached to the bottom of a oil pan. Heats up the oil quick for instant oil flow.
I love this guys humor, but i didn't learn anything from this. I also don't agree with his "cold start", that was just starting it. So its click bait.
But the comedy was gold! Great humor brother!
Been turning mine over a bit before starting as well. Also I temporarily cover up most of the air cleaner for a choke.
Man you got that thing tuned brother
I’m hoping my e85 carb with cold start this good. Xp750 e85. On a 13:1 421. It been sitting on the engine stand fully assembled for like 8 mths and I’m to flipping lazy to start putting it in my s10. To many projects bro. Thanks for the videos man I enjoy em.
Thanks for the videos they sure do help a lot now i know👍
Make a video about that vacuum pump!
You ask and I will deliver.💪🏻
I was gonna say same thing, please do vac pump video
Heads up! Ran that exact air filter on my 383 stroker and after one summer it started breaking up on the top end from sucking in filter material. Was very disappointed :(
It worked for me🎉. Thanks
I have a 383 stroker motor on my c10 with an edlebrock 750 and i have the vacume pump welded with the mechanical choke so all i do is turn the engine over for a couple seconds then give it a couple pumps and starts right on with the choke on at perfect warming idle then i give it a quick rev when its warm to go back to idle
Dude this is an Awsome video.I just change my plugs like crazy lol.Great educational video.Definitely changing the way I start my car.Thanks!
I am glad it helped, 90% of the time plugs get all black and foul out is because the idle is too low along with the idle air screws are adjusted to far out. This will cause the motor to load up just cruising around.
I had similar carb and I would floor it to the floor one time and it start ever time getting that timing dead on and carb set perfect it start just with pump from both squirts
Great video! I have been catching up on some of your older videos. Do you have one on your "hummingbird feeder"? I would like to see how you did that.
Hey how’s it going. So my car, (306 sbf, h/c/i, Brawler vac secondary carb but no choke, 18 deg initial/36 total by 3k rpm), doesn’t do that great with cold starts. I’ll pump it, it’ll turn on, and I have to pedal/feather the throttle from time to time otherwise it’ll die - even if I try to keep my pedal steady at 2k rpm. Once it gets to temp (170 to 180 degrees) it’ll idle fine, but before then it’ll want to die and it’ll kinda I guess “sputter” as I’m feathering that gas pedal. What adjustments would you suggest so I can get it where it needs to be? Not sure how far out my idle mix. screws are, but once it’s at temp it’ll idle at 13.7-14.3 on my wideband.
I just moved had to start mine in 20°F, I just put my torpedo heater under truck for 20 mins started fairly easy.
That's pretty good
Nice carb nice setup but na im sticking to my choke lol
Its all about setting it up properly.
Like me 2 pumps and a squirt 😂😂😂
Yeah I pump mine 2 or 3 times and it usually fires up just need to sit in it for a bit ...
But it is a little more forgiving since I changed to a wide center lobe turbo cam
Still has like 240 @50 but my center lobe is 115 only about .510 lift and duration 276 but it seems to work ...
My buddy with the Chevelle has about the same but 235 @50 and that one runs in the single digits with a hanger18 how brew carb nothing fancy 👍🏻👍🏻
Love this video. Where are you from. I’m newerish to carbs. I been around them my whole life with my grandpa and his classics but tuning them I’m new and need someone to hands on tech me I’m running a 650 demon on a 468 bbc which I believe now I need a 750 or an 850. It’s running way way rich. At idle. And throttle. Just rich. Any tips. Thanks you. Michael
Awsome video !
Exactly the way I been starting my 565 BBC with 1250 Dominator. However, the other day, it was about 50 degrees and the car hadnt been started for a few weeks. I just gave it a half pump, then held throttle open about 25%. Started almost immediately. Had to feather it for about a minute to keep it running. AFR was at 19 if I let off! Now, I just have to get some kind of oil heater for next cold start after its been sitting for months. I run 20-50 oil and have an aluminum pan.
Big fan of your channel, but to each its own, me? 2 pumps, crank and idle around 1500 for a couple of secs.
Yeah there's nothing wrong with carburetors. Today's generation is all about easy. I love the on the spot tune, with carbs. Nothing wrong with fuel injection either but you gotta do to many trips to a tuner and that = money.
Fuel injectors! Idle control valves! Ecus! 🤘🤘🤘🤣🤣
Lol.. What language is that chinese? I speak Merican.
Joe prolly tunes his fuel injected lawnmower on the dyno😂. Jk joe I love your channel too.
Fuel pump on, fuel pressure up, 3 pumps on the peddle, turn the key, wala
Hey you are over 2K?
I'm entering the world of F I but I still have a carb back up though
They are both awesome.
Unless it’s an 80s Shitbox with 14 different types of plugs, wires, and an Rochesters you have to smack with a mallet before you start it 😂😂 haha good video though for people that don’t have a clue
Yoo lol.. 🤘🤣
Hey what size Carburetor you running ?
750
Hey are you going with the same Carburetor on the 400 ?
@@robertthornejr527 Same metering blocks and fuel bowls but I will get a 950 main body and billet base plate.
Ok I was just wondering I have a 400 in my s10 . I have a 750 on it now. I'm only running 10.3 compression with Afr 195 street eliminator heads with a hydraulic roller.
Back firing cold start, too far advance?
Usually too retarded
This is NOT how to start a cold carbed engine. You are killing your bearings by cranking it till you get oil pressure. Your engine needs oil pressure AND VOLUME asap to survive and an engine that see's 1000+ rpm's in 2 seconds is going to last a hell of a lot longer than one that cranks for 30 seconds waiting for oil pressure. Not to mention oil pressure gained by cranking the starter has no where near the volume of an engine spinning at 1000 rpm's.
Plug readings taken at an idle are useless. There are way to many variables for them to give you any valuable information.
Too each there own, start YOUR motor however you wish. I've been building tuning and racing carbed engines for 4 decades and I would never recommend cranking an engine untill you see oil pressure on the gauge. Unless I had stock in the clevite bearing company.....
Humm that is interesting. My bearings on all my motors have told a different story and I could have probably even reused them. Here are some tuning videos I have made below… Please help is encouraged…
Dyno video.. ua-cam.com/video/8mlcKU0betA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/YLPN9TOakgg/v-deo.html
N20
ua-cam.com/video/COYuzHmdbyY/v-deo.html
9 sec pass
ua-cam.com/video/F6jaMd3yP20/v-deo.html
Do not pump and crank at time . pump w/o cranking let the fuel evaporate for a few seconds crack the throttle slightly and fire it up.
On a high compression motor It's better to do this while it's spinning. Because if you don't, the majority of the fuel will drain to the rear cylinders causing a hard start situation. The starter will barely turn it over. It's always better to turn it over then pump because the fuel is more evenly distributed to all the cylinders.
Never....ever...crank a engine over to build oil psi. All you did was wear the cylinders, rings and every bearing in the engine.
Humm… combustion load vs just compression stroke load for oil pressure. 🤔 I have never seen such evidence on any of my motors when I take them apart. The bearings look fine and the honing marks are still visible. The only time I have seen unwanted wear is when the motor was hurt from a race and the wrist pins froze up due to a bad N2o tune-up.
LOL
Still a dud tho 🤣🤣
Big fat dud for sure. 😆
Before I watched the video I was gonna say three pumps before it starts.
If it was e85 it takes about seven.