Ayeup, how you doing, I saw your last video just the other day, I liked it,... it was good. funny thing is I don't get any notifications from some sites including yours and I can't figure out why.. still thanks, speak soon, Cheers.
Great job as always Paul. You have definitely dispelled the myth that small surface grinders don’t benefit from wheel balancing. Looking forward to making some hubs for my Mk 2 and my friend has a Mk 4 for which He”ll do the same.
A great outcome, and well worth all your expert machining skills. Being a retired machine tool fitter building Jones & Shipman grinding machines for 50 years, it was interesting to see another British made surface grinder. As you probably know, the J & S machines all had wheel flanges c/w balance weights, and actually looking not far off what you ended up making. The first split weights you made were just like the J & S ones, but I do like the ones you ended up with, a much more practical solution, and easier to clean, and not susceptable to seizing up in the dovetails! excellent work, albeit with rusty fingers lol. cheers, Dave
Hi, I have used J&S equipment for years, more centre grinders than surface grinders, they are still my preferred machine. In so far as the surface grinders spin the right way (anticlockwise), I've nearly come a cropper a couple of times with this machine. thanks for watching, cheers
Wow Paul, beautiful work. When I made wheel hubs for my grinder, I just copied the design of the factory hubs. Mine did not have a dovetail groove for the weights, it’s a “square groove” and never gave me any trouble so I didn’t feel a desire to update it. You did some impressive work making yours. Thank you for sharing.
Well that does seem worth all the effort, I'm going see if there is dome wsy of making some means of balancing my wheels, which are direct fitment, but if i did i might miss the pretty patterns left by the wheel. 😉 Are you sure they were sweaty marks and not tears of joy marks?
That's lovely. Can I ask why you went with 3 weights rather than the more common 2? Is it a surface grinder thing? My only experience with these things is on bench grinders, and all of the ones I've seen only have 2 weights.
Hi, I have balanced many grinding wheels in the past and all of them including the ones at training college all had three weights, that's the only reason I chose the three weight method. and its true two weights will do the same job. cheers
You should have cut the corners off 4:16, before stacking the plates. To start with an octagon saves quite a bit of interrupted cutting, but is still reasonable quick done with your band saw or angle grinder. ( do not ask why I know 🙂)
Have to dress the wheel on the Arbor before balancing it, and not the other way round. In this case the the wheel was balanced with the runout, and when it is then dressed, the concenticity is established but the wheel becomes unbalanced again.
That is correct, I did set it up and balance it first, then dressed it, removed it, and balance it again, then I did the same once more out of interest but, there was a very small change on the third dressing. I forgot to inform everyone during the video that's all. cheers
That’s correct for small wheels. But for larger wheels you must balance first. Then dress the wheel and balance again. Otherwise the large mass of the wheel can result in way too much vibration when dressing.
Not only is the quality of the work spot on but the subtle humor is outstanding.
Hi, I try,... I try, glad you enjoy, Cheers
The difference in finish quality is spectacular. It was really worth all the work you did put in to it.
Hi Michel, thanks, the finish is rather good if I say so myself. I also enjoyed your last video,... very informative. Cheers.
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A very satisfying result there Paul, well done and a very interesting couple of videos, thanks
Hi, glad you enjoyed the video. cheers
Very Nice sweaty finger finish! Blood Sweat and Tears, glad we saw the sweat.
so am I, so am I....cheers.
Great work Paul, very well done Sir! Greetings from Southport.
Thanks Kevin, cheers
You are a genius my friend. Love how you got those buttons in 😊😊😊
Ayeup, how you doing, I saw your last video just the other day, I liked it,... it was good. funny thing is I don't get any notifications from some sites including yours and I can't figure out why..
still thanks, speak soon, Cheers.
That is a lot of work, but the end result pays off Paul, thanks for this episode!
you're welcome
Always a pleasure! Thanx for your great vids!
You're welcome. cheers
Great job as always Paul. You have definitely dispelled the myth that small surface grinders don’t benefit from wheel balancing. Looking forward to making some hubs for my Mk 2 and my friend has a Mk 4 for which He”ll do the same.
Hi Tony, hope you and your family are well. not only does the cut look better. It cuts more efficiently also. cheers.
Magic! Always magic! And the results prove it.. Les
Hi, thank you. Regards.
Very nice work sir. Watched a few of your videos now and like it. Thanks
Thank you for your comment.
Now, I spose I have to build mine. Oh, well done.😮
you'll enjoy yourself.
A great outcome, and well worth all your expert machining skills. Being a retired machine tool fitter building Jones & Shipman grinding machines for 50 years, it was interesting to see another British made surface grinder. As you probably know, the J & S machines all had wheel flanges c/w balance weights, and actually looking not far off what you ended up making.
The first split weights you made were just like the J & S ones, but I do like the ones you ended up with, a much more practical solution, and easier to clean, and not susceptable to seizing up in the dovetails! excellent work, albeit with rusty fingers lol. cheers, Dave
Hi, I have used J&S equipment for years, more centre grinders than surface grinders, they are still my preferred machine. In so far as the surface grinders spin the right way (anticlockwise), I've nearly come a cropper a couple of times with this machine. thanks for watching, cheers
Wow Paul, beautiful work. When I made wheel hubs for my grinder, I just copied the design of the factory hubs. Mine did not have a dovetail groove for the weights, it’s a “square groove” and never gave me any trouble so I didn’t feel a desire to update it. You did some impressive work making yours. Thank you for sharing.
Hi, thanks, its something that Im quite used to, cheers
@6:29 Great video sync with the lathe spindle.
Thanks, it wasn't intentional,... honest,.. Cheers
Хорошая работа !
thanks
When leveling a balancer lengthwise, use two parallels, on the side if you don’t have thick enough one to stand vertical. Put the level on that.
Very nice😍
thankyou
Well that does seem worth all the effort, I'm going see if there is dome wsy of making some means of balancing my wheels, which are direct fitment, but if i did i might miss the pretty patterns left by the wheel. 😉
Are you sure they were sweaty marks and not tears of joy marks?
HI, no, no, they were sweat marks. cheers
That's lovely.
Can I ask why you went with 3 weights rather than the more common 2? Is it a surface grinder thing? My only experience with these things is on bench grinders, and all of the ones I've seen only have 2 weights.
Hi, I have balanced many grinding wheels in the past and all of them including the ones at training college all had three weights, that's the only reason I chose the three weight method. and its true two weights will do the same job. cheers
Thanks
you’re welcome.
You should have cut the corners off 4:16, before stacking the plates. To start with an octagon saves quite a bit of interrupted cutting, but is still reasonable quick done with your band saw or angle grinder. ( do not ask why I know 🙂)
yeah, I know but it looked good on video. cheers
Have to dress the wheel on the Arbor before balancing it, and not the other way round. In this case the the wheel was balanced with the runout, and when it is then dressed, the concenticity is established but the wheel becomes unbalanced again.
That is correct, I did set it up and balance it first, then dressed it, removed it, and balance it again, then I did the same once more out of interest but, there was a very small change on the third dressing. I forgot to inform everyone during the video that's all. cheers
Thank you for clearing it up. Since balancing is such an important topic this was important.
That’s correct for small wheels. But for larger wheels you must balance first. Then dress the wheel and balance again. Otherwise the large mass of the wheel can result in way too much vibration when dressing.
Hello I do not under stand why you make 15 balans nuts when you can make two rings end whit 15 M6 hole and the saw it 👍👍
Hi, it's probably down to having a single minded view and just getting on with it, still, thanks for your comments. cheers