Making your Engel Car Fridge work better!
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- In this episode of Lock your Hubs 4WDing, we test the Engel Car fridge. Can the 12v fridge freezer benefit from a step-up convertor and does the fridge cover actually help at all? What about a full fridge vs a partially filled one? In this video we answer all those questions and more.
The 13.8 Volt step-up model number used in the video is:
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What's your best fridge mod or tip?
Ive put a PC fan sucking heat out of the compressor cavity parallel with the other fan
My tip is this: I used to have a 60 litre Engel chest fridge mounted on a dropdown slide and with a purpose-built cage around the whole thing. There was a lot of wasted space and so I decided on a quantum shift. I pulled the whole lot out of the Silverado's canopy and weighed the 3 components.....= 100kg.
I sold the whole bloody lot for $1,600- and spent $350- on a second hand 55 litre Engel upright fridge...weighs 23kg. Takes up less space and saved me around 75kg of weight.
I don't believe those who say you lose all your cold air everytime you open a front-opening fridge. The contents retain the cold. I rarely use ours anyway...it would be lucky to get opened more than once a day.
I don't know why front opening fridges aren't more popular especially in canopy setups.
For my older Engel, on 240V I use an Inkbird ITC308 to get my fridge to hold a specific temp and i can review the history of the temp etc. I use and STC1000 to do the same via 12v and set the engel to freeze. The STC turns the power on and off at the specific temps i set - has a minimum off time to protect the compressor.
Give the wife her own fridge. She looks after hers, I look after mine. (Beer must be maintained meticulously)
Thanks. Looking forward to seeing your testing in high temperatures.
It'll certainly be interesting.
Now that's a video that will get shared many times over. A great effort 👍.
Thanks!
Massive review! Very insightful. I appreciate your efforts. You are a scientist indeed!
Thank you kindly!
After watching this I checked heat above the vents on our Engel MTV Combi 60ltr and sure enough there was plenty of heat build up. I lifted the cover and the heat released, let the cover sit for another 5 mins came back to see if heat had built up, and it had. So I removed the cover cut out all the mesh and refitted the cover and minimal heat was felt around vents. Aside from noticeably less heat it was cycling less. This morning I checked and again minimal heat was felt from top vent but, the fruit juice was partially frozen. The mesh very clearly traps heat and only makes the compressor unnecessarily work harder producing more heat to compensate for the heat entrapped by the mesh. We'll leave the cover on without mesh as sitting in the back of fourby the cover provides protection from physical impact and direct sunlight which should assist in maintaining temps.
The cover does have some insulative properties, though the negatives outweigh the positives.
You've probably reached the best compromise cutting the mesh out.
Interesting 🤔 look forward to the summer tests. Thanks for the video 👍
No worries mate!
Mate, best review I've seen. Saw this posted on a forum, impressive approach, no bs. Subbed. Looking forward to looking at your other stuff. Thanks & Cheers PP
Thanks mate, which forum?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Sorry mate, should have said, 4x4 Earth. Great channel. Got some viewing to catch up on. You test stuff in real world situations. Really interesting. A lot of work, too! Thanks for the reply. Cheers PP
I like this to my kegerator fridges up in Darwin. In the buildup - the sides of the fridges are burning hot due to the fridge working so hard to try cool the intervals that it burns itself up. It's basically always running in extreme heat and barely reaches 4 degrees it's target. In the winter, no problem, sides are cool
I've had a couple of Engels over the years. I added a computer fan to the compressor end and found it helped dissipate much better than relying on convection.
With the transit bag, I did a lot of camping in NQ and found it did help the fridge stay cooler. The cushion helps keep the sun off the lid when its in the back of the car. I did take to the mesh with a hot soldiering iron and cut 3/4 of it out though, left just enough for it to maintain its shape.
Paying for a transit bag though. Tell them their competition offered to throw one into the deal and you'll get one.
In the sun, that may well be the answer, take a hot knife to the mesh.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing 100% take out all the mesh and add a small fan if your model does not have one.
@@ozkite I'm in the middle of testing just the insulation on the fridge and it looks like you're right.
great testing again mate, thanks for your efforts 👍🍻
Glad you enjoyed it mate, I wouldn't have guessed the outcome at the start!
Great video 👍 and I live in the tropics in North Queensland and I’m with you. No cover all the way. And also I’ve seen Engels rust on the outside from the cover from condensation build up. Looking forward to more videos of yours
Thanks, I'm at the opposite end of the mainland, Victoria. I'll be doing the same test again in summer, where we get at least 30c and see if there is any difference.
Also looking forward to test in higher temperature as I’m in Queensland
Thanks and keep up the great videos
Not quite FNQ temps, but all the testing was done in 30+ degree temps ua-cam.com/video/_fhnGbGyZVg/v-deo.html
Great info, I have debated myself many times on the cover. I will continue to run with no cover & just do my best to keep it out of the sun.
That's my next test, just have to wait for the summer.
Thankyou, the test with the cover was very interesting
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for sharing mate. Very interesting.
Cheers, glad you enjoyed it!
Definately keen to see how efficient the covers are at 40 degrees. Also interested to see if other brands suffer the same problem. Great content👍
Thanks mate! It'll definetly be an interesting test.
Epic testing man
Cheers mate, glad you liked it!
Certainly keen to see the summer test
It's done, search the channel!
Well done enjoyed your knowledgeable presentation, have subscribed.
Thanks mate!
Would love to see your wonderful efficiency tests comparing 12v AGM vs 13.8v step-up vs 15v output from a USB-C PD supply (using a trigger board set to 15v connected to a 12v USB-C PD charger supply (you have to be careful to get one that can output 15v@5A connected to a 12v car accessory outlet, because many hide that the upper PD voltages like 15v and 20v only work if the supply is plugged into a car running a 24v system 🤣)
I’ve found these new GaN USB-C PD supplies to be really efficient, and so I’m transitioning evening I can to USB-C where possible. It’s also nice that doing so eliminates a lot of extra cabling to carry.
Great video ! ♥️
Interesting! Sorry I didn't see this comment earlier, what sort of percentage efficiency are you seeing from the pd supplies. I've also picked up a few and haven't had the time to play with them yet. USB C is no doubt the way of the future for small current devices, with PD 3.1 becoming more common, we'll have 240w to play with!
Thanks Simon , another great informative video, yes I’d be interested in seeing if the cover in summer , say 36-38 degrees have detrimental effects to the performance of the Engel. Thank you for the time and money you have invested to give us this info, this info is valuable to novice campers and 4X4. Cheers
Glad you liked it! For once I'm actually looking forward to summer and do the testing in the next heat wave.
This is what I was interested to know. Maybe the covers are a summer only option. Also test in shade and direct sunlight.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing have you done the test in summer yet?
Well done mate! I almost bought the cover and now I'm glad I didn't. Thanks so Much. GOD, Guns & Gumbo
Glad to help!
Good video mate. Subscribed 👍🏻
Thanks mate!
Great test mate, My engel struggles to dissipate heat from the condenser in a hot car, I wired up a computer fan to suck the heat out (similar to what you did with the pedestal fan) and it's improved the performance pretty well
I would like to look at putting some sort of 12v fan on the fridge. I think it would definitely be worthwhile, even with the extra battery the fan would chew through.
All 40 ltr Engel's have internal fan to circulate air through the condenser
I'd be interested to see how the same fridge and bag respond if you remove the mesh on the openings of the bag.
That was my thought too!
@@muzzaball Agree - but I reckon the point this bloke is making is that its the whole cabinet that is emitting heat that cant escape - but this at least makes us think about engineering something better - the Western Capitalist way that makes life better for everyone. Congrats to LYH.
After watching this .. I cut my mesh out and during this cutting out process it was very noticeable the air movement passing my fingers as cutting.
So proof it works 💪 I also left a few lines of mesh that was not covering vents to give a bit of support and strength in the case.
Classic - well done - i had a suspicion these covers were dodgy.
Definitely not for my Engel!
Your tests are very interesting I would be curious to see in hot weather. I usually leave my tail gait window up to try and get some air in the car.
Search the channel, I since done the hot weather testing as well.
Would also like to see results of this in and out of cover in direct sunlight as if it’s on the back of the Ute. Interesting results I’m surprised more people aren’t doing real tests like this
As soon as Summer arrives, I'll give it another go in the back of he 4WD.
Nice video mate, interesting! Subscribed. Cheers.
Thanks!
this is fantastic
Thanks!
so theres only one thing im wondering,
in the part where you tested the cover on or off. i agree it used more in the freezer part of the test. but in the fridge part is looks like with the cover on the fridge did do cycles where it was shorter on and longer off
also i cant believe that an expensive 12v fridge like an engel doesnt have a fan to keep the bits cool and get rid of the heat. i used a cheap (€300) mobicool 12v fridge freezer its an FR40 i believe and that had a fan that would switch on to dissapate the heat it worked great.
Another good video. Side note, it’s Hyst-er-esis not Hyst-erious, there is another ‘s’ in there. Keep up the great work Cobba 👌🏼
Close!
Thank you
You're welcome.
First time watching your channel, love it. Superbly helpful review! Love the data driven approach, no nonsense just the stats. As you say I wonder with the fridge cover if there's a turning point where above a certain temp, when outside temps are higher (30-40ºC) the benefit of a bit of extra insulation in the bag outweighs the reduction of airflow... Will check out some of your other vids to see if you tested that :)
I did!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Cheers, I found it! Great analysis.
Facinating results with the cover section. I am removing mine as a result.
Thanks, the results surprised me!
I came here looking for diy covers.
Now it seems i need to design my own. Air gapped with a pc extractor fan over where the fridge heat exhaust vent is.
Exactly!
Glad my cover came for free with my fridge 😱
Unfortunatley, I paid full retail for mine!
Mate nice video. Interesting on my 40l engel the water/condensation buildup between fridge and the bag when set on freezer. The new covers for the waeco cfx3 is just a protective cover with no insulation and no mesh on the vents.
Unless the fridge is direct sunlight can't see the need for a cover .....and your test showed that.
Cheers
I'm doing a hot weather outside and back of 4WD test at the moment, so keep an eye out.
My test setup would be to let the fridge run, in both environments, until the 5th, 10th, 20th, etc cycle of the thermostat. Then read the cumulative current draw at that time and compare. As it stands, the results of your test, at best, would indicate that yes, the fridge cools better/faster with a steady 14.x vdc input. As far as overall power consumption, let your tests run until a temperature setpoint is reached for both tests. Then draw your conclusions.
My reasoning? I had a 75L Norcold (its similar model here in the States), but mine has a 24v mode. Runs on 12v or 24v, and when on 24v, the compressor was able to spin faster and for longer periods. Perhaps it was just my model's inverter-compressor setup, but I used around a 30-33% less power (Ah) on 24 vs 12. I used a 12v - 24v DC-DC converter I picked up from everybody's favorite (here in the States at least) online retailer.
Great Video again Simon,I'm With Ren would be interesting to see the same test in summer Temps,but it too late I spent money on a cover...need to get a Volt step-up ..Thanks
As long as you've got the extra battery capacity, it looks as good a mod for fridges as for the travel buddy.
No you dont
Yay I was wondering if you were gonna do this video😂
Yep is the answer!
That’s interesting your test on the fridge cover. I own a Engel 40L combi fridge and found without the fridge cover my fridge compressor was on more often and consumed more power. I had to put the fridge cover back on so my ice cream would not melt during summer. I live in QLD so our summers is probably a lot hotter
I’m going to test this out with my Victron gear.
Maybe they fixed the ventilation issue with the 40L combi fridge cover? Is there still mesh over the grill?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes still has the mesh. My Engel is about 4 or 5 years old. Could be older
Good video. I agree that it would be interesting to see the same test (with/ without transit cover) conducted under higher ambient temperatures. FYI, I also bought the transit cover for a new 40L MT-V Engel fridge on the basis it would both protect my investment and improve it's efficiency.........Seems like we are all suckers to good marketing
Here you go mate! ua-cam.com/video/_fhnGbGyZVg/v-deo.html
excellent presentation -- NO FLUFF!! Lots of useful info, well documented and explained. I suppose I could ask you how you feel about the Engel over other excellent fridges (Snomaster, National Luna) that are considered high line models. I understand that the Sawafuji compressor in the Engel has some interesting properties (and some people swear they're better than "regular" compressors (Danfoss and Secop included)) and MAY last longer but the downside seems to be not as efficient (more power hungry) compared to other compressors. For myself, I like the Engel design and construction a lot. You also seem to be a fan of them!
I am a fan, just not of the transit covers! I haven't used the other fridges you've mentioned unfortunately, so don't really have an opinion on them.
After seeing the results I purchased a 12v computer fan and will attach to fridge to help ventilation.
I was really surprised with the results, I think a would not only make the fridge work better, but probably use less battery over time.
Ive often thought my fridge runs hotter with the cover on. I agree the cover keeps the heat in.
The proof is in the pudding. Seems it does!
Another Great video, keep em up.
Thanks mate!
I am thinking a very small solar panel. With a temp controller and computer fans. It says in engel manual. Vent cooling will increase efficiency. Also steady voltage will make fridge run better. I spoke to snowy outdoors. They said the cover is to stop the sun heating the cabinet. Running in canopy it not really needed. Insulation on canopy would improve things. Same if you got windows. Blocking the sun. Merry Christmas and thanks for the videos.
I'll have the answer soon! I saw a peak of 54 degrees in the back of the 'Cruiser on a 32 degree day!
Great vid mate,yeah would really like to know with high temperatures and with the sun on the fridge as most fridges sit in the back exposed with the window.
As soon as the warmer weather hits!
I believe the cover is designed to insulate the fridge from direct sunlight in higher ambient temperatures.I suggest direct sunlight on a 35c day. Good video, I didn’t consider the step-up converters.
We're about half way through hot weather testing, both inside a 4WD and outside as you would find in the tray of a ute. We just have to wait for a few more warm days. Though I did record 54 degrees celsius in the back of the 4WD on a 33 degree day!
Great scientific tests! I actually rebuilt my entire fridge slide carcass to get another 30mm clearance to fit the cover. Now I think that was in pointless after watching this 🤦🏽♂️. I like the protection the cover gives, maybe just cut the mesh out?!
I might end up doing just that after the hot weather testing!
Hi Simon, another terrific vid from you, I am glad I subscribed! The data doesn't lie. If you look at the mesh, well it covers 50% of the ventilation doesn't it? I mean if each strand is 1mm, and there are 100 strands, I guess 100mm is being blocked (actual numbers may vary). I guess you could cut the mesh away and just leave the hole, would that help? Cheers mate.
I'm doing some hot weather testing (taking a while because 30degree plus days in Vic take a while to come around!) Once I finish that up, I might have to sacrifice the mesh to see if we can get the best of both worlds.
Plus will look at adding a computer fan, I have a few lying around and did add fans to my 3 way caravan fridge too and improved its performance out of sight.
I'm looking at testing a step up into the 12V circuit of a 3 way fridge. I think there may be a performance advantage there as well, time will tell.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I've done a fair bit with 3ways. Fans make a huge difference but the big issue often on 12v is the voltage drop in wiring, especially through a 12 pin trailer plug. Really do need super heavy wiring for long runs, or a dc-dc charger to boost voltage at appliance. They run really well when set up properly. Even in summer in the WA desert. Cheers PP
It’s all about airflow just like a car radiator. mesh over the front increased heat, mesh over the Engle increased heat.
Exactly!
Hi Simon, as per comments below, 12 degrees is not the norm, 35 in the day and 17 overnight is more realistic. Also opening the lid is an issue, maybe when you do your summer tests introduce the inflated wine cask liners so that cool air is nor dissipated.( BTW I can supply the wine cask liner)
Do you drink wine out of a cask? You might be living on the wrong side of town after all!
Thanks mate, good info. I wonder what these numbers would like on a less expensive fridge. I know Engel are efficient anyway, but some of the other brands, such as Fridgemate, ARB. Off to go take the cover off my ARB 60l. Cheers.
We'll have to check how it works in hot weather as well! So don't throw the cover out just yet!
Very interesting..... For the test between full and part full, maybe do a test over a couple of hours, opening the fridge every 15 minutes and see how it goes. On covers, why do they make most of them in black now? Surely that will absorb heat if the fridge is in the sun at all. My cover is silver on the inside and black/dark grey on the outside. It seemed silly to me, so I turned it inside out so the silver was on the outside. As far as I know, silver will reflect warmth, but it can't reflect coolth! How about cutting the mesh off the vents in the cover? Would that help? Keep up the good work!
If the fridge is out in the sun in the back of a wagon, I definelty wouldn't want a black fridge cover!
It might be interesting to see how much opening the fridge periodically affects performance and current usage. I did notice when I was testing the travel buddy, it would drop from 180 to about 170C in the time it took to open the door and pop in 4 pies. I'll pop that on the list for testing, thanks!
Wow what a result! Would be interested to see what something like a Waeco CFX series (plastics rather than steel) would test like? If you were nearby I'd lend you mine for a test! Very interesting that's for sure!
I would use my waeco, if the thing would run for long enough to complete the testing... (I think I bought a Friday fridge...)
@@LockyourHubs4WDing ohh no, buggered eh?
@@VideoShowMeHow a couple of times!
In my experience, a full fridge being opened and closed regularly during the day works better because it retains greater cold mass and less cold air escaping. It gets back to temperature quicker.
My brother's covered Engel was in such great condition that Engel warrantied repairs years after the warranty ran out because they could see it had been looked after.
The more efficiency with larger thermal mass makes sense to me. Initally I bought the bag to try and keep the fridge in good nick as well.
Spot on, greater thermal mass in the full fridge and less escaping air mass.
We have been testing 24v ( Max 29.4v ) 7s2p bat. packs for a few years now for fridges, using 1865 & now 2170 LI and a 14 Bat. pack will run most fridges for 20+ hours, depends on draw, how full and # of times opened. Due to OHMs law the cabling can be 'thinner' and most fridges in Oz are 12v/24v so I know from experience that running them at 24V is much better than 12v :)
BTW - The packs weight a few KGs, I do not think I could lift a AGM or Lead Acid 24v bat. so I'm not suggesting you do that !!!
I might run a comparison in the future between running off of the car's native voltage (around 13.8v) and using a step up to around 27-28 volts in the future. Thanks for the idea.
I have fitted a dometic fridge 3 way in a old van a few months back. A add extra is a vent fan in the instructions which you can buy, the new to old unit as a fan now installed. To make it run better. I made a controller from jaycar kit and relay. It works great. also online instructions say add a vent fan, and put insulation around the sides and top. I think the cover wrong. The cabinet yes but where the workings are no. It would be better fitting a cheap ebay temp controller and one or two small computer fan. Then you will see it run real great. Russell
I think internal fans would help immensely.
If you look at dometic 3 way. The top heat exchanger that cools the gas, now has a fan. The accessories list has vents. Top and bottom. There also a vent fan for top.
I was thinking about a few bits of wood underneath to allow for better air flow, cheers!
That might help!
Definitely interesting results and I wonder if this is across the different brands of fridges like Dometic/Waeco etc...
With the cover supposedly to reduce the amount of heat gain under direct sun exposure, I wonder what your results would be if you repeated the same test under direct sunlight and warmish conditions? Would the heat build up be less, therefore requiring less heat dissipation and the fridge/freezer models then being more efficient than those without a cover?
I'll definetly be having a look at that come the warm weather.
Did you happen to test the power consumption of the actual step up voltage converter (as in total system draw)? Thanks great video 👍
No, though I have previously measured their efficiency, it was around 80%.
Would be interesting to run an infrared sensor over the fridge to find the hot spots with a view to removing the insulation or providing a small computer fan to improve ventilation.
I've got a FLIR camera, so as part of the "summer" testing I'll test it out. Thanks for the idea.
Great video and topic mate. Talking about covers, I remove my cover quite a while ago now as I thought my fridge wasn't that efficient. Not only the power consumption, but I could stick my hand between the cover and the fridge cabinet and it was quite hot, however the external temp of the bag was quite cool. I have a Waeco CFX 50 sitting in the back of my car which runs most of the time. After having a board failure, prior to bag removal, I replaced the controller with a an Ebay special and fitted a 125mm internal 12V fan, out of a Samsung Dryer. End of Problems. The Fridge is now over 20yrs old with a neatly mounted digital controller. I do like your Idea for the step up and throw that cover to the shit house lol and your fridge will be happy.
I think if the ventilation could be sorted, maybe an effective fan? We might actually see a benifet from the cover.
Your series of fridge temp tests is the most informative I have seen. I realize this is an old post but wonder if you could answer this, please? I use my fridge as a freezer and as you said to run it like that uses 30% more battery. At -5 deg it will keep functioning on a 200Ah battery and 300w solar panels. At -10 deg it will cut off (fridge low battery level setting 12.4v) about 8:30pm and restart around 7:00am but a slight defrost is noticed.
If I set the fridge to -15 deg during the day (the solar system handles this temp easily) and reset it at 7:00pm to -5 deg for the night it seems to stay frozen until the next morning.
What would you recommend as the best option for the fridge and food ????
1. Leave the setting at -5 deg
2 Set the morning temp to -15 deg for the day and reset the late afternoon temp at -5 deg for the night
3 Set the temp to -18 deg and just turn the fridge off for the night.
Cheers mate
All the best for the New Year
It's an interesting question.
The answer will depend on the availability of peak sun hours average everyday. And that'll be dependent on your location. Basically the further north you are, the more you'll be able to rely on the solar.
Another consideration will be if you run at only -5C all the time, you don't have much of a margin of error before the food could possibly be ruined (defrosted icecream?)
I personally would run it -15C during the day and turn it down at night.
By the cutout voltage (12.4v) I assume you're running some sort of lead acid battery?
When these eventually die, I would seriously consider replacing them with either a DIY or lithium drop in solution. You can reliably go to 80%+ depth of discharge with lithiums vs usually around 50% dod for lead acid. This should more than cover a constant -15C consistent setting.
While the initial outlay is more expensive, when you factor in the expected extra life and more useable capacity, their total cost over the length of ownership is considerably less than the equivalent capacity lead acid.
Thank you for your helpful reply. My batteries are 12month old AGM's. The old ones lasted 10 years so it may be a while before I can change. I will go with the -15 during the day and -5 at night.
Cheers mate
Great vid. I would like to know how weather proof the fridges are. I have had my waeco cf40 on the back of my ute for a couple of years, Cover on. I know of someone who has had there’s in a ute for about 5 years. Still going strong. Is there anything really in them that rain and sun will damage?
I'm not sure if the plastics are UV stabilised or not. I know plenty of people also who run them in the back of utes without any issues. You might have to check with Engel themselves to see if they are rainproof or not.
It makes me wonder if the slots in the side of the fridge restrict the air flow as well? If they were opened up more it would allow better air flow.
I wouldn't have initally thought so, though then again I wouldn't have thought the mesh on the cover would have restricted air flow either.
When I use my fridge on my tray in the elements I run the cover but when it goes in the canopy or back of the Mrs wagon cover comes off it just incubated heat with it on with no air flow around it
There is possibly something to that, I might include an open air test in the hot weather testing.
I wonder if the ambient was higher would the tables turn with the cover on or off.
I'll be testing that in the very next heat wave down here in Melbourne.
wonder how well a small computer fan would in terms of benefit vs extra ah used. since your saving quite a bit with cooling fan might work out the same?? small temp sensor setup so it only turns on when compressor get above certain temp
I was thinking about a 12V low amperage fan as well. I might have to pull the fridge apart.
In regards to the fridge been empty or not, would be good to measure when opening and closing the fridge as a half empty fridge would allow more space for warm air to enter. Just a thought.
I did notice a drop of about 10 degrees with the Travel Buddy in the time it took me to open it, pop 4 frozen pies in on the racks and shut the door. So I'm assuming the opposite would be true for a fridge and the removal of already cold good would make it even worse.
I might have to try that as part of the hot weather testing. Cheers
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Going to be a good follow up video. Looking forward to it.
Love your myth buster style of testing. Wonder if the waeco fridges and other brands would be the same ??
I'm not sure, though I haven't had much luck with my personal waeco, the bloody thing is broken down more than it works! I must have bought a Friday fridge....
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I've got the cf 80 and it has played up on me once.
Bugger, I know people who have had a really good run with them, just not me, or you!
Wow very surprised with the cover
Not as much as I was doing the testing!
Was told a long time ago that the covers were good if your fridge was in direct sunlight. But if in an enclosed area to remove the cover.
That may well be the case still!
Looking at just the fridge mode for the fridge cover test, doens't the graph show that the compressor kicks in less with the cover on (3 times versus 7), which should mean that a cover is more efficient over a longer period of time. This makes sense - the cover increases insulation and therefore keeps the fridge cooler longer.
If you compare the gradient of the plot after the fridge turns off, that's how fast the fridge section is heating up (steeper is worse). They'll be two factors effecting the gradient. Firstly, the quality of the insulation and secondly the temperature differential between the fridge and freezer section.
It looks like the drop gradient of the fridge section after shut of isn't as steep on the plot of the fridge without cover to me, though there's not much in it at all. If it's the added insulation of the bag contributing to the performance of the fridge section, or the lack of insulation to the detriment of the fridges thermal performance that being artificially boosted by the temperature differential of the fridge to freezer, I'm not sure. Maybe a little of column A and a little of column B.
Can u please test the cover during the heat of the day with fridge inside a 4wd ?
In the very next heat wave!
Another very interesting video. So now I'm wondering what would happen if the fridge bag was left ON and the vents were cut out ? Does the modest restriction of the vents really make that much difference ? Maybe it's because that the bag is a loose fit and the warmer ambient temperature air, is filling the void between the bag and the fridge, and it's warming the bag. Which might mean that the bag is working like a warmer blanket that retards the efficiency of the fridge ? I'm also wondering if some of the warmer air that the fridge is extracting, is leaking between the bag and the fridge ? (I better check that out). My Engle fridge came with the bag at no extra cost due to a sales promotion. So I'm lucky enough, not to have buyers regret. As the LED light stays on full time inside my Engle with the lid shut, I could see light escaping past the seal, which means the fridge is losing efficiency. I think it's a common Engle problem and something I'm going to fix today. I always thought the seals were too thin on these fridges, but apart from that, I'm happy with the Engel due to the low current drawing swing motor. 😁👍🏼
I've heard about putting wire in the seal but stumped on how to get seal off any ideas
I've not seen an issue with the seal, the fridge tested is about 6 or 7 years old and has worked flawlessly over the time.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing My 40L Engel has also worked without a problem for about 5 years now. Even better, my Aussie built 60L TrailBlaza fridge has worked without a problem for 28 years. 😁👍🏼 I might take a photo of the Engel sealing issue and email it to you. I have read that other people have noticed the same problem. Maybe it's only the 40L model that has this issue ? Have a nice day 😊
@@CamperKev My 40 litre fridge had the same issue as being able to see the light on around the seal so I adjusted the hinge and it now seals as it should.
@@GrumpysBeast Good on you Graham. Thanks for letting me know. 👍🏼😁
How about a myth buster video on that fuel doctor stuff??
Hi mate, in regards to the performance with a fully loaded and partially loaded fridge and freezer was the product already at temp or did it have to cool it down as well? Speculating that if the product was down to temp before you would see a greater difference in the performance between both. Also when the fridge got to temp did the performance differ from partially and fully stocked fridge/freezer.
As others have stated I’m wondering if cutting the mesh out would help with heat dissipation. Also putting Velcro between the fridge and bag around the cutouts I think would help keeping a tighter seal around the bag to dissipate heat.
I use to repair all types of camping fridges and was able to upgrade from the original dial to a newer series with the temp read out and light so I’d say you’d be able to upgrade to the digital temp setting. Also there should be a computer fan already underneath the compressor to dissipate heat.
All of the testing was done with both the contents and the fridge at room temperature at the start of every test. Otherwise the results wouldn't have been comparable.
It's great to know the controls are able to be swapped over. I might upgrade the fridge further down the track.
So there is already a fan in there? It's a Engel 75L Combi Fridge Freezer.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing
Yeah fair point mate. It might depend on what series fridge yours is they had different power supplies with less/different type plugs, the f series were the newest when I was working on them and from what I remember was still that series when the digital controls.
Yeah there should be, pretty easy to check just remove the back panel. 2 in the top and 4 in the bottom and it slides out. Over the years they build up with dust and the bearings seize
Is the step up voltage safe to use on the older engels 80s/90s style
13.8V should be fine for any 12V fridge.
Just a point on the 'Full or Part-full' issue - the test doesn't take into account the frequent opening and closing of normal operation. A full fridge has a substantial heat-sink (or should I say coolness-sink) effect, so frequent opening will have a lesser effect than on a partially-filled one, thus keeping it full should be more efficient.
Agreed, though this test was to simulate an overnight usage, so would be less likely to be repetitively open and shut. Unless you were having a big night!
Interesting review.....I need to look into those step up converters.
PS....I didn’t realize you were so short....my Engel is 45cm high and only reaches the top of my knees.......🤪
Haha, the Engel was sitting on a 6 foot tall platform!
Lock your Hubs 4WDing 😂😂 touché sir... touché.
Keep up the good ‘No BS’ reviews. 👍👍
@@streakychambers658 haha!
I think the problem here may be the ambient temp being so low. The cover is working like a blanket to keep heat in at that low temp. Would this be the case still in the back of a 4x4 at 35-42C? If it is still the cae then the only reason to have a cover (and I have had once since I bought the fridge a decade and a hald ago or more) would be to protect the fridge exterior. BTW. As a creator you might want to know that I am subscribed with all notifications turned on and I am not getting notified of all your uploads by UA-cam... I came to this vid via the end screen in your latest release.
The UA-cam algorithm is fantastic like that..... If you check out my other videos, I did more hot weather testing (30C+) and the result was more of the same!
Did you end up removing the net from a fridge bag and comparing that? Of having the bag in place but cutting out the net works then I’ll do that.
Not yet, I want to try fans first.
I would love to see a hot weather test, how close are you? 😉
ALSO I would love to know the internal cabin temperature difference between your white cruiser and a black one?
Most of the hot weather testing in now done and it's going to be 34 degrees C on Thursday, so I'll get another test knocked over. Won't be long now!
Yeah but how much battery would you use if you gave the fridge more rime to reach minimum temp without the step up?
Hmmmm ... I'm not sure. I know with the Travel Buddy and the step up, you chewed more current for a smaller amount of time during the preheat and then less time cooking saved substantial battery capacity, though would have to actually test to verify with the fridge.
With regard to the fan portion of the experiment....can I assume you used a 240 volt "household" style fan?
If so, I'm tempted to suggest that, for real-world purposes, it may have been more appropriate to have used a 12 volt fan of some description (computer fans are popular) and have it running off the same 12v power source as the fridge. That way you'd have been able to demonstrate the benefit of the fan v the "cost" as regards the additional power consumption.
Also, would you possibly be willing to sacrifice the mesh of the cover and see if that reduced the power consumption?
G'day Bill, yes the fan was the 240v pedestal type fan as I didn't have a spare 12v fan floating around and the lockdown here makes it hard to run down to the shops!
If someone would like to donate a cover I would happily take a knife to it :)
I might, though after I do the hot weather testing.
Was the water in the fridge and freezer put in at ambient and made to cool down with the fridge or was it already chilled?
And for the fridge full and empty tests again, did the fridge have to cool the contents from ambient or did you test it once already at temp?
I think you’d find a full fridge already with everything cold will use less power to keep it all cold than an empty one. Just removing 10 litres would make little difference. It’s proven that if you have a large thermal mass (fridge full) the unit won’t have to work as hard to remain cold as if it was empty.
Also you need to test with the fan and without but both with the cover off as it could just be the fan improving it either way.
3% extra use might not be a lot over 12hours but over a month it’s heaps of Ah.
What temp settings were your fridge and freezer set to?
You say the freezer wasn’t turning back on again - I’m sure it was. That was a temp graph not a current draw or load graph. It likely cycles on/off in very short bursts to maintain the set temp. If it didn’t turn back on then the unit would keep warming up and this is not being observed.
Please note the word is hysteresis not hysterious.
The problem with fridge covers is they keep heat in as well as keep heat out. They work best when the fridge is in sunlight as they reduce it heating up. If the fridge isn’t in the sun, they will trap heat and the fridge is probably better off without the cover.
There's comments about the cover on a hot day, I would think the direct sun light on the fridge body itself would be the problem.
It could be, though knowing that the fridge can't dissapate the heat generated in the compressor section in the dark at 12C, is the extra insulation going to help at high ambients when even more heat will be generated in the compressor section and they'll be less of a temperature differential between the ambient and the air inside the compressor section? Not sure, though will find out this summer!
Hmmm, interesting. I recently got a 32l engel and haven't gone for the cover.
It will be strapped down in the rear of a hilux dual cab, away from heat, dust and the like. I think it's a set up that doesn't require a transit bag.
Yep, sounds like you don't need one.
Would love to see the same test performed with a Danfoss compressor instead of the Fujisawa to determine if the compressor design has any affect on the results. Thanks for the content Cheers
I've only owned 1 fridge with a conventional compressor, that thing spent more time being repaired than keeping my drinks cold! I'm a Fujisawa devotee....
@@LockyourHubs4WDing If you don't mind me asking, what brand was your non Engel fridge? Cheers
Waeco.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Hate to say it but I suspected that. I ditched that brand and moved to National Luna close to 10 years ago, fridge has been on constantly ever since. Always tempted by Engel but their lack of product development (e.g. digital thermostat is only recent) and particularly. minimal insulation are the turn offs. Thanks fo the response. Cheers
What if you leave the cover on and cut out the screen mesh???
That would work!
I've always said covers are to only protect your fridge from scratches so forth, but I have two engel fridges combi 57 with cover and MT45 without a cover and I've found real dusty condition it gets in between the fridge and the cover and scratches ya fridge? As the MT45 has nearly no scratches but yet combi is covered in fine scratches
Dust makes a great grinding paste!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing it does indeed mate! My combi looks sandblasteted on one side!
Not convinced yet. My fridge runs 24/7 between battery and solar with a pretty consistent temperature. Often gets 50+ in my car and now I am wondering whether the case protects the fridge from this. Looking forward to you testing in the hotter weather.
I'm about half way through. On a 33 degree day, it peaked at 54 degrees in the back of a white landcruiser! My Engel did not appreciate it :)
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Looking forward to it. Should we expect some sweaty wet t-shirt action on this one?
@@NasTimeAdventures You would certainly hope not! :)
Keep the fridge full to stop the drinks and food bouncing around :) Does the cover block the air flow around the motor? Cover good for when the fridge is sitting in the sun
I'll be testing whether it works better in the sun in the back of the 4WD as soon as summer arrives!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I think it will help protect the fridge from heat from the sun, but I would be tempted to cut out the mesh over the vents.
Wonder what the results would be if you made a cover out of Mylar and left the vent areas open?
Good question!
Whats the step up converter brand
Just a no brand ebay special. 13.8V
Very interested in seeing this tested in high temperatures.
I'll have to wait for a heat wave!
I would also like to see the results of the cover on/off for insulation if the fridge was turned off. So how long would it stay cool with the cover on/off if the fridge was to turn off (real world: your battery dies and you are looking to keep the content cool for as long as possible)
I did test that in the other fridge cover video. The insulating cover does actually insulate better than no cover, it's just that the benefit of the insulation is more than counteracted by the heat kept in the compressor section.