Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
Good Question. It can be fairly technical because it depends on the CFM output of your furnace, the amount of air ducts, the size, and how many air return you already have. On the other hand....most of the basments i have seen only have 1 return on the ceiling of the basement (not good). At the very least I try to move that return down to the floor. It's good practice to have one in a common area or hall and another in a bedroom. Hope that helps!
I ran one return duct to the corner of my basements living room area with unfinished cinder block walls. It was acceptable in below zero temps but still cold. The opposing basement room block wall corner began to weep moisture in winter. It would drizzle down the wall and create mildew. I ran an additional cold air return to this corner. Problem solved, basements should have air flow to keep dust, moisture, and mold/mildew from settling - continue reading. Since it's an unfinished block wall, I just found something to secure the flexible ducting near the floor. I recorded before and after temperatures in this room as well. Outdoor temperaures were near 40F, unfinished room - low 50F, 48F in corner of block wall. After adding cold air return - 58F to 62F between furnace cycles. Basement living room - 65F to 70F. The placement of the thermostat, cold air returns, heat ducts and overall air flow between rooms all effect the temperature balance. Cold air falls to the floor (as mentioned in video). However, over the last couple years of using my handy infrared temp gun, I've found that these two opposing basement corners are a point in which the cool air settles most. This is where I've run my two basement returns. On top of adding these returns, I also spray foamed the basement rim joists and filled gaps and cracks in the cinder block walls. LPG usage dropped 2/3rds (66.6%) over the last winter! The gas co now owes us $700 in credit. I'm not adding anymore returns in the basement because the furnace and hot water draft heater are down there. I bought the place with the draft flue tee'd in to the furnace exhaust (furnace blowing at HWH draft!). There was no clearance for a properly setup water heater draft flue so I installed a wye in place of the tee. Now when the furnace exhaust blower kicks on, it creates negative pressure at the draft flue wye - but not too overpowering as to suck out the HWH pilot. Just enough draw to keep the draft from being pulled back in to the homes air via any return pressure.
Opinion from another HVAC Company, Thank you.. Forced air oil heaters (sealed combustion) are NOT required to have return air from the upstairs living space, only open combustion furnaces. Of course its better to draw air from the living space for quicker air exchange, but not a requirement. We always recommend a ducted return when possible...
I've seen that done when the furnace is open to the basement and I'm sure that it would help. If it's in a mechanical room then there is a small advantage because the air is circulating in an unused room. Main thing is to have air returns down low to exchange cool, damp air! Hope that helps
Hey Great Video Kody! In the absence of an HVAC system and using only extractors to pull fresh air in and push hot air out, would the same setup for the air return near the floor of the basement still apply? I was told that due to the fact that hot air rises, in our scenario it would be better to put the fresh air inlet at the base of the floor and pull out the hot air near the ceiling to create an easier air flow and breathing comfort for occupants in the absence of an HVAC system like you have in the US or Europe. I'm about to make an adjustment based on your recommendation. Thank you.
In my basement I have vents against the walls on the top of the wall and on the bottom of the wall. Should I be closing any of them in the summer to keep the basement less cold?
Good question. Do you have air conditioning? If so yes close off the supply vents. If No A/C then it might be better to keep them all open and run your furnace fan to try and circulate air throughout the entire house.
Yes you’re right but the cool air will fall anyway. I think it’s most important to make sure warm air in the winter is allowed to draw down to the floor and keep the basement fresh.
Luckily, when my basement was finished 7 years ago, I had a low return vent put in. Still having issues with airflow up to my 2nd floor though. Since the house originally only had 1 supply vent (2 more were installed when basement was finished) in the basement that stayed closed, wouldn't it be OK for me to close off all of my basement vents completely?
You can definitely close off certain vents (ones that get too hot or get too much air). By closing some off, it will force extra air to all the other open vents. Sometimes you have to play with these to get the balance to each room a bit better
Another video I have seen advocates putting an air return in the return plenum just before the air filter. If you have NO air return ducts in your basement is this advisable and is it helpful?
I’m glad I came across this. My basement has three air registers on the ceiling but no air returns at all. So I think all the air rushes to the main floor returns. Considering there are 3 air registers, do you think I could just go ahead and add a return? Or do you think I need an hvac person to do some math on it first?
Take this loosely and not as gospel. You can have more air returns than air supplies. I’m guessing you have a shortage of air returns regardless. I say cut some air returns in and get them down low. Or call a trusted HVAC guy. Should cost you roughly a few hundred dollars and no more than 1000. Hope that helps
1 WEEK AGO- my basement starting getting COLD drafts. As in I went from wearing a shirt, to 2 sweaters PLUS a winter hat. I can feel the breeze. Even upstairs main level - -- I feel some cold breeze. BUT....my heat is working! There's warm air coming from vents. I've felt every vent in the house - NO cold air from there. I do hear a 'thud' once in awhile I assume it's from furnace. Based on these clues - is it possible the furnace or HVAC is responsible for this sudden cold-ness in my house? BUT if so - and cold air isn't coming from vents ---where the heck could it be coming from? Appreciate any opinions...maybe it's not furnace and it's something else but this is weird, just started a week ago....I've lived here 10 years.
Good lesson! But I'm trying learn about the fans in the walls, in my basement. They're obviously near the Return. Do I need to worry about them, check or replace?
Good basic summary, however it does not solve the big problem even with low returns in basement. That problem being too cold in the basement during the summer cooling months. I am retired now after 35 years in the HVAC business that included designing and selling to the residential sector. Find the solution to the physics of cold air dropping down the open stairwell of nearly all modern homes with basements built today and you well have a profound invention. Don’t recommend a shut door to the stairwell, that would be too simple and not the style most people would go for!
Mark Bartlett I was just thinking and asked the same thing. You would almost be forced to close the return on the basement for the summer months.... for the longest time I’d put a huge fan at the bottom of the stairs and try to pump the cold air from the basement upwards...
You would need some form of mechanical system in order to do that. Cold air naturally falls so one would have to move it to a higher altitude with a fan or something
@@uptokode How might the existing furnace blower fan be used? I have this same problem on my 3 story open stairwell home, single thermostat on middle level...60F at bottom of bsmt stairs, 80F at ceiling of top floor cathedral ceiling. Test should ideally destratify hot and cold air to balance at 70F on all three levels, winter, summer and fall.
@@DavidZwarych I actually did this while renovating. I didn't have ac during the summer months so instead i took the intake off my furnace and had it suck cold air from the basement instead of the outside .... this allowed the cold air from the basement to circulate the rest of the house using the furnace fan. Probably not the best idea for air quality but I had the windows open at night for fresh air. And I also have good co monitors interconnected throughout the house.... Maybe this is bad advice but it worked for me.
One reason basement feel colder to the human body is water vapor that penetrates through foundations and evaporates, this causes our bodies to loss radiant heat faster making it feel cooler. Use caution installing to many return vents in basements as stack effect on the house, unsealed return ducts and return vents can cause negative pressure in basement and natural venting combustion appliance (water heaters, furnaces) to back draft, spilling combustion gases or carbon monoxide into house air, an unhealthy condition. Consult a building science or building forensic specialist.
what's fascinating is how leaks in supply ducting in unconditioned spaces can cause negative pressure which, IMO, is the cause of most of our ailments (unless you live in the southwest). Here it goes: we built our homes to create mold in the wall cavities (unknowingly, of course, since we were building this way prior to the advent of AC). cold enters the wall cavity via conduction where it meets nasty ass hot and humid air in the summer. causes condensation. then we have a F***ing BUFFET for mold: drywall paper, wood studs, kraft paper on insulation AND then we give it water and all of this in a mini cave protected from UV exposure! US: "is there anything else you need mold?" Mold: "could you tuck me in at night and read me a story?" and since every house experiences the stack effect, it causes negative pressure to pull air through the contaminated wall cavities and makes everyone fat, depressed, paranoid.
This is a huge mistake the builder made on all the townhomes in my neighborhood. No basements, but the ground floor of a 3 story townhome is always 10-15 degrees colder because the heat vents are in the ceiling AND the air return is also in the ceiling.
Thanks so much for this video. I'm getting ready to finish my basement and never thought about the air return, but now I will definitely make sure I do.
I realize this is an older video but it's a good one. My question is though this will circulate the basement air properly, will it put a bigger contrast of temps into your heater ducts and cause mold over time? Seems like the damp cold air of a basement just wants to create problems somewhere. Good job illustrating the video though, simple!
I think either winter or summer it’s the best solution. Cycles the air down low which is priority in a basement. In the summer the cold air from AC will come through the vents most likely in the ceiling. Cold air falls either way and that cool air will be re-circulated the next time the furnace turns on.
I'm not concerned about heat in my basement in colder months. I'm actually more concerned about basement moisture in the summer. Seems like it would be better to keep the return high in the summer so it can pull moisture into the system and remove that moisture from the air.
If you want to put your returns high in the basement you can, but your supply will have to be on the floor. Supplies and returns have to be on different levels or the air coming out of the vent will just go over to the return and get sucked back in without mixing a lot with the room air. Supplies and returns also shouldn't be on the same wall or close to each other for the same reason.
You should not have air return if you have gas hot water tank in the basement because it will cause backdrafting and pool carbon monoxide in the house if pressure is not equal. Thats why only supplu air shoud be provided, right?
Mr.Kody, Nice video thanks. We have a finished basement. We have a ranch house. But some of the rooms on the 1st level not heating properly. Any advice why it's doing this? Thanks, James
I thought about this too.. I'm not an expert, but I think the cold air would still circulate ok because it would fall from the ceiling vents down to the floor anyways, now it's being sucked up and circulated still.
I also was having the same question because in my bilevel home in the summer all the cool air sinks to the basement. Traditionally you’d want to capture the hot air and send that back through the system, but if you have a return in the basement it would essentially be pulling in the most cold air in the house and sending it back through the system.
Hi, I have a warm air furnace with a open return, the dealers say for a new furnace I have to have a closed return. A closed return to upstairs is not doable with my house. What is the closed return furnace code, is it a state code or something, I do not want to do it, is there a waver for it, are the dealers just giving me a bunch of crap.
I’m not exactly sure what they mean by closed return. You need return air no matter what or the furnace won’t work. Unless they mean an actual ducted return ? Most people use joist space or stud space that creates a pathway for the return air to flow through. That space will be need to be capped on 4 sides to make a make shift duct if you know what I mean. Not sure if that helps.
Hi, I have a open basement and open intake return, no ducts. They say there is code for a closed intake ducted return. My house is 60 years old, cinder blocks and brick, a closed ducted return is not doable.
CACTUS48 You need an actual return duct pulling air from the upstairs of you’re house to help cycle the air to properly cool and heat. It needs to be sized right to have the right amount of static pressure for proper furnace operation and efficiency.
My house is an early 1950 house, cider block and brick, like to keep the open return in the basement, do not want to put intake ducts going upstairs, it would be a major effort, going to post in a code forum.
I have a new house and it is finished and the fresh air intake is in the finished part Cold air is coming in and humidity is 70 percent The furnace is not running
Hi. I have a 110,000 btu oil furnace with a .85 hp blower. Originally all the intake air was supplied at the blower on the basement floor were there was a 14" by 20" opening for the filter. The furnace had no return duct at all. I had work done by a professional and a 8" x 18" duct was added to extend across the basement and two returns were added to the first floor. The two returns grilles about 6 by 12 inch in size are coming from 7" oval duct off of the larger 8" x 18" duct. My question is: Isn't this going to seriously restrict the return air volume to the furnace and also effect efficiency? I read that 7" duct has a cfm of 150, so total with the two returns is just 300 cfm for the furnace.
Hi Bryce, I will have to consult an HVAC contractor that we work closely with. This was more of a design idea for basements and your question is above my knowledge level. I'll see what I can find though!
Ok so here we go. The main 8"x18" trunk is sufficient but you are most definitely restricted as for the amount of returns. Basically that furnace will put out 1200-1400 CFM of supply. Your air returns should equal that plus 10%. Roughly you should have a 24-30" grille upstairs in a common area and a 14" grille in each room. Then your basement should have at least a 24-30" return in a common area. Hard to tell exactly but I think this should help. Cheers!
Kody Horvey Thank you so much for the info on the amount of return air needed for the system! Looks like I am going to need a lot more return ducts which is what I suspected.
I have a question, I moved into a home that in the lease said AC was included. Turned out there is no AC. This was discussed with the landlord after learning and they agreed to pay a portion if it stays here. LL asked me to find one for them so I did, i got one to fit my square footage of my living space downstairs and am now being told their air return is sending my colder air from the A/C window unit through the vents and into the rest of their house making them "cold". From your video, it doesn't sound like it's possible. The window unit is a higher window, I really only feel it at head height, and there is one vent lower in the wall that blows air into the room and another one that might be a return vent. (lower) and then I have two in the ceiling. Is this person legitimate in thinking my 10000 BTU AC that barely cools my whole room, circulates through the vents in the rest of their home cold enough to cause a problem? I know hot air rises so I didn't think there was a way they would receive my AC cooled air.
Hello, thank you for the video. I have a quick question. My basement has 2 closed in rooms (bedroom and bathroom). I have a cold air return in the bottom wall of the open common area, but I am looking at what is the best option for CAR for the bath/bed rooms. It is best to run a CAR duct directly to the closed-in rooms, or is it ok to simply leave an opening from each of these rooms to the common area to allow for air-flow back into the common area. Thanks!
I think that your best bet would be to run return to those rooms, if you can. it would make the individual rooms more comfortable, especially if they are zoned.
At 2:18 in the video, where you add the "cold air return" on the floor directly into the furnace. How could this be done, if the return air portion of the furnace is on the opposite side (away from the wall where you drew the vent)?
Finally found a video that addresses my situation. I have a partially finished basement, with a lower cold air return on the finished side and a ceiling cold air return on the unfinished side. Should I close the ceiling cold air return on the unfinished side during the winter or just leave it open?
Just because it’s too difficult to put heat supplies down low in a basement because they would have to be ducted inside the walls. Not that it’s impossible but just more work.
I advice you to make the supply hot air low ,,,,, and the return hot air high,,,, as the hot air no normaly goes up ,,, the circulation will be my ch better .... Plus the low return air will suck dust bad for fan
Is the basement finished? If so that’s not the end of the world. Have an HVAC guy take a look. Usually there’s a spot in the mechanical room that you can pop in an air return. If not finished same goes. Get an HVAC or furnace guy to look and offers some ideas. This is very easy to a pro so don’t let them fool you.
Major hassle. I installed in wall electric heaters in each room. You only heat the room you want heated. Cheaper and works great. Use ducting for a/c and fan, or a mini split.
Returns only have the ability to influence air movement 18 to 24 inches in front of the grill everything you're explaining in your video well there's no other way to put it is it's wrong so please stop perpetuating the incorrect assumptions. Here is a real example of what I'm talking about, put your hand in front of your face and blow into it, you can feel that right. Now leaving your hand the same distance away suck real hard, you can't feel that right. That is how a fort in Klein fan move there and it's a demonstration as the show everything that your drawing on the board is incorrect please stop telling people to do this because it is wrong
Ed....when air is removed from one area (that 18" in front of the cold air return you describe) it is ALWAYS replaced by other air. It's how warm and cold fronts create WIND in weather. So just because you may not "feel" that air, if you draw air from in front of the register, it will indeed create low pressure that is backfilled by air from elsewhere in the room. Want proof ? Look at how a whole house fan works.
@Ed Janowiak.. why so many ppl like yourself not considering b4 commenting something negative ,to think,or better yet check,educate yourself on the topic, just type a few letter into a great invention ill introduce you to "Google" .. Trying to sound "smart" about something just assuming you know.. correction your kind walk around thinking you know everything and better than others.. you just embarrassed yourself ..doesnt that bother you? Be humble be kind and nothing wrong with sharing your opinion but if you trying to educate or interject make sure you checked to b safe u know it correctly..quiet in the room is a strong person dont worry.. especially when a kind person helping others out of his good will and kind heart,you really shouldn't barge in and try to argue with your pants down pockets turned out all grey matter in that melon in a koma from not exercising ,being a true donkey and most importantly you not even considering to help others like our real expert in the video..god bless everyone
@@headcoach2721go buy a copy of Manual T (air distribution basics) , learn how a ducted systems work (its different than the whole house fan comparison you used).
I gave the video a thumb down because this video is short of what an actual house duct may be. I’m 15 years experience dealing everyday with installing and fixing hvac.
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
Good Question. It can be fairly technical because it depends on the CFM output of your furnace, the amount of air ducts, the size, and how many air return you already have. On the other hand....most of the basments i have seen only have 1 return on the ceiling of the basement (not good). At the very least I try to move that return down to the floor. It's good practice to have one in a common area or hall and another in a bedroom. Hope that helps!
Good video. In my area we don’t do cold air returns in basements because of Radon….
Interesting. I’ve seen the old school ducting below the basement floor, now that a radon issue!!
Thanks for sharing this and this answer my question where i have to install my cold air return in my new basement
I love your explanation. It is very rare these days. Please keep up the good work.
I will and thank you!
I ran one return duct to the corner of my basements living room area with unfinished cinder block walls. It was acceptable in below zero temps but still cold.
The opposing basement room block wall corner began to weep moisture in winter. It would drizzle down the wall and create mildew. I ran an additional cold air return to this corner. Problem solved, basements should have air flow to keep dust, moisture, and mold/mildew from settling - continue reading.
Since it's an unfinished block wall, I just found something to secure the flexible ducting near the floor. I recorded before and after temperatures in this room as well.
Outdoor temperaures were near 40F, unfinished room - low 50F, 48F in corner of block wall. After adding cold air return - 58F to 62F between furnace cycles. Basement living room - 65F to 70F. The placement of the thermostat, cold air returns, heat ducts and overall air flow between rooms all effect the temperature balance.
Cold air falls to the floor (as mentioned in video). However, over the last couple years of using my handy infrared temp gun, I've found that these two opposing basement corners are a point in which the cool air settles most. This is where I've run my two basement returns.
On top of adding these returns, I also spray foamed the basement rim joists and filled gaps and cracks in the cinder block walls. LPG usage dropped 2/3rds (66.6%) over the last winter! The gas co now owes us $700 in credit.
I'm not adding anymore returns in the basement because the furnace and hot water draft heater are down there. I bought the place with the draft flue tee'd in to the furnace exhaust (furnace blowing at HWH draft!). There was no clearance for a properly setup water heater draft flue so I installed a wye in place of the tee.
Now when the furnace exhaust blower kicks on, it creates negative pressure at the draft flue wye - but not too overpowering as to suck out the HWH pilot. Just enough draw to keep the draft from being pulled back in to the homes air via any return pressure.
Opinion from another HVAC Company,
Thank you.. Forced air oil heaters (sealed combustion) are NOT required to have return air from the upstairs living space, only open combustion furnaces. Of course its better to draw air from the living space for quicker air exchange, but not a requirement. We always recommend a ducted return when possible...
Why not have your hot air ducts low and the return hight? Another video recommended low hot air ducts.
I've seen that done when the furnace is open to the basement and I'm sure that it would help. If it's in a mechanical room then there is a small advantage because the air is circulating in an unused room. Main thing is to have air returns down low to exchange cool, damp air! Hope that helps
Hey Great Video Kody! In the absence of an HVAC system and using only extractors to pull fresh air in and push hot air out, would the same setup for the air return near the floor of the basement still apply? I was told that due to the fact that hot air rises, in our scenario it would be better to put the fresh air inlet at the base of the floor and pull out the hot air near the ceiling to create an easier air flow and breathing comfort for occupants in the absence of an HVAC system like you have in the US or Europe. I'm about to make an adjustment based on your recommendation. Thank you.
In my basement I have vents against the walls on the top of the wall and on the bottom of the wall. Should I be closing any of them in the summer to keep the basement less cold?
Good question. Do you have air conditioning? If so yes close off the supply vents.
If No A/C then it might be better to keep them all open and run your furnace fan to try and circulate air throughout the entire house.
How about opposite situation when we turn on AC? It would be better to have the air return opening on the ceiliing when AC is on?
Yes you’re right but the cool air will fall anyway. I think it’s most important to make sure warm air in the winter is allowed to draw down to the floor and keep the basement fresh.
Thanks for explaining this!
Luckily, when my basement was finished 7 years ago, I had a low return vent put in. Still having issues with airflow up to my 2nd floor though. Since the house originally only had 1 supply vent (2 more were installed when basement was finished) in the basement that stayed closed, wouldn't it be OK for me to close off all of my basement vents completely?
You can definitely close off certain vents (ones that get too hot or get too much air). By closing some off, it will force extra air to all the other open vents. Sometimes you have to play with these to get the balance to each room a bit better
Another video I have seen advocates putting an air return in the return plenum just before the air filter. If you have NO air return ducts in your basement is this advisable and is it helpful?
Not for if open combustion dryer, boiler, furnace within 10 feet range
I’m glad I came across this. My basement has three air registers on the ceiling but no air returns at all. So I think all the air rushes to the main floor returns. Considering there are 3 air registers, do you think I could just go ahead and add a return? Or do you think I need an hvac person to do some math on it first?
Take this loosely and not as gospel. You can have more air returns than air supplies. I’m guessing you have a shortage of air returns regardless. I say cut some air returns in and get them down low. Or call a trusted HVAC guy. Should cost you roughly a few hundred dollars and no more than 1000. Hope that helps
Wĥy would they put air returns by the floor and supply vents by the ceiling would it be vetter if supply is by floor so heat rises What can I do ?
It’s usually too difficult to get air supplies down low but if you can even get a few that would be a great advantage in my mind
You your recommend adding returns in each room and hallway in basement or should 1 for the hallways be ok ? And low correct ?
1 WEEK AGO- my basement starting getting COLD drafts. As in I went from wearing a shirt, to 2 sweaters PLUS a winter hat. I can feel the breeze. Even upstairs main level - -- I feel some cold breeze. BUT....my heat is working! There's warm air coming from vents. I've felt every vent in the house - NO cold air from there. I do hear a 'thud' once in awhile I assume it's from furnace. Based on these clues - is it possible the furnace or HVAC is responsible for this sudden cold-ness in my house? BUT if so - and cold air isn't coming from vents ---where the heck could it be coming from? Appreciate any opinions...maybe it's not furnace and it's something else but this is weird, just started a week ago....I've lived here 10 years.
Is there a ratio of air return vs. air ducts we should follow?
Good lesson! But I'm trying learn about the fans in the walls, in my basement. They're obviously near the Return. Do I need to worry about them, check or replace?
I’m not sure what fans are in your walls. I would need to see pictures or something.
Good basic summary, however it does not solve the big problem even with low returns in basement. That problem being too cold in the basement during the summer cooling months. I am retired now after 35 years in the HVAC business that included designing and selling to the residential sector. Find the solution to the physics of cold air dropping down the open stairwell of nearly all modern homes with basements built today and you well have a profound invention. Don’t recommend a shut door to the stairwell, that would be too simple and not the style most people would go for!
Mark Bartlett I was just thinking and asked the same thing. You would almost be forced to close the return on the basement for the summer months.... for the longest time I’d put a huge fan at the bottom of the stairs and try to pump the cold air from the basement upwards...
After 35 years....any solutions to destratify cold air back to top floor...without using ceiling fans or box fans?
You would need some form of mechanical system in order to do that. Cold air naturally falls so one would have to move it to a higher altitude with a fan or something
@@uptokode How might the existing furnace blower fan be used? I have this same problem on my 3 story open stairwell home, single thermostat on middle level...60F at bottom of bsmt stairs, 80F at ceiling of top floor cathedral ceiling. Test should ideally destratify hot and cold air to balance at 70F on all three levels, winter, summer and fall.
@@DavidZwarych I actually did this while renovating. I didn't have ac during the summer months so instead i took the intake off my furnace and had it suck cold air from the basement instead of the outside .... this allowed the cold air from the basement to circulate the rest of the house using the furnace fan. Probably not the best idea for air quality but I had the windows open at night for fresh air. And I also have good co monitors interconnected throughout the house.... Maybe this is bad advice but it worked for me.
One reason basement feel colder to the human body is water vapor that penetrates through foundations and evaporates, this causes our bodies to loss radiant heat faster making it feel cooler. Use caution installing to many return vents in basements as stack effect on the house, unsealed return ducts and return vents can cause negative pressure in basement and natural venting combustion appliance (water heaters, furnaces) to back draft, spilling combustion gases or carbon monoxide into house air, an unhealthy condition. Consult a building science or building forensic specialist.
what's fascinating is how leaks in supply ducting in unconditioned spaces can cause negative pressure which, IMO, is the cause of most of our ailments (unless you live in the southwest). Here it goes: we built our homes to create mold in the wall cavities (unknowingly, of course, since we were building this way prior to the advent of AC). cold enters the wall cavity via conduction where it meets nasty ass hot and humid air in the summer. causes condensation. then we have a F***ing BUFFET for mold: drywall paper, wood studs, kraft paper on insulation AND then we give it water and all of this in a mini cave protected from UV exposure! US: "is there anything else you need mold?"
Mold: "could you tuck me in at night and read me a story?"
and since every house experiences the stack effect, it causes negative pressure to pull air through the contaminated wall cavities and makes everyone fat, depressed, paranoid.
This is a huge mistake the builder made on all the townhomes in my neighborhood. No basements, but the ground floor of a 3 story townhome is always 10-15 degrees colder because the heat vents are in the ceiling AND the air return is also in the ceiling.
Oh no! What a shame. People don’t understand basic physics sometimes. 🤦♂️
Great video. Question - what if my air supply for a room in the basement is at ground level? Would I still put my return on the ground?
Thanks so much for this video. I'm getting ready to finish my basement and never thought about the air return, but now I will definitely make sure I do.
Glad to be of help.
If i have a hot water heater, by furnance it can dangerous if i had a return in the basement
Thank you my basement is finish i will have some one look at it. thanks for getting back to me
I realize this is an older video but it's a good one. My question is though this will circulate the basement air properly, will it put a bigger contrast of temps into your heater ducts and cause mold over time? Seems like the damp cold air of a basement just wants to create problems somewhere. Good job illustrating the video though, simple!
Does it work for telling AC to kick on if hot air is going in there?
I think either winter or summer it’s the best solution. Cycles the air down low which is priority in a basement.
In the summer the cold air from AC will come through the vents most likely in the ceiling. Cold air falls either way and that cool air will be re-circulated the next time the furnace turns on.
I'm not concerned about heat in my basement in colder months. I'm actually more concerned about basement moisture in the summer. Seems like it would be better to keep the return high in the summer so it can pull moisture into the system and remove that moisture from the air.
If you want to put your returns high in the basement you can, but your supply will have to be on the floor. Supplies and returns have to be on different levels or the air coming out of the vent will just go over to the return and get sucked back in without mixing a lot with the room air. Supplies and returns also shouldn't be on the same wall or close to each other for the same reason.
I bought a dehumidifier and turn it on in the summer in the basement
Moisture is heavy and will stay low in the cool air pockets. You'd have better results with a low return and high supply
You should not have air return if you have gas hot water tank in the basement because it will cause backdrafting and pool carbon monoxide in the house if pressure is not equal. Thats why only supplu air shoud be provided, right?
Over 3 minutes to describe that a return duct down low sucks in the hot air up high that rises.
Mr.Kody,
Nice video thanks. We have a finished basement. We have a ranch house. But some of the rooms on the 1st level not heating properly. Any advice why it's doing this?
Thanks,
James
Thanks for the video. This will help our basement moisture issue!
Good video. What about for AC cooling air in summer? Would I close off lower return vents and keep upper returns open?
I thought about this too.. I'm not an expert, but I think the cold air would still circulate ok because it would fall from the ceiling vents down to the floor anyways, now it's being sucked up and circulated still.
Don't close any vents .. you need the proper air flow / air exchanges for the system to work as intended in both heating and cooling modes
I also was having the same question because in my bilevel home in the summer all the cool air sinks to the basement. Traditionally you’d want to capture the hot air and send that back through the system, but if you have a return in the basement it would essentially be pulling in the most cold air in the house and sending it back through the system.
Hello thanks for the video. Can I open a return straight from the main trunk in the equipment room? Thanks in advance
I would not put return in a utility room. it may pull in expired air lacking oxygen...no bueno
And if you ever were to have a CO leak that could get recirculated rather quickly
so, does this mean returns upstairs should be high on the wall?
No. Always down low as hot air rises and you want to pull that air to the floor and circulate it nicely
@@uptokode what about in the summer? My upstairs seems to keep the hottest air at the ceiling...perhaps we need both?
Hi, I have a warm air furnace with a open return, the dealers say for a new furnace I have to have a closed return. A closed return to upstairs is not doable with my house. What is the closed return furnace code, is it a state code or something, I do not want to do it, is there a waver for it, are the dealers just giving me a bunch of crap.
I’m not exactly sure what they mean by closed return. You need return air no matter what or the furnace won’t work. Unless they mean an actual ducted return ? Most people use joist space or stud space that creates a pathway for the return air to flow through. That space will be need to be capped on 4 sides to make a make shift duct if you know what I mean. Not sure if that helps.
Hi, I have a open basement and open intake return, no ducts. They say there is code for a closed intake ducted return. My house is 60 years old, cinder blocks and brick, a closed ducted return is not doable.
CACTUS48
You need an actual return duct pulling air from the upstairs of you’re house to help cycle the air to properly cool and heat. It needs to be sized right to have the right amount of static pressure for proper furnace operation and efficiency.
My house is an early 1950 house, cider block and brick, like to keep the open return in the basement, do not want to put intake ducts going upstairs, it would be a major effort, going to post in a code forum.
International Mechanical Code Duct Systems codes.iccsafe.org/content/IMC2015/chapter-6-duct-systems?site_type=public
I have a new house and it is finished and the fresh air intake is in the finished part
Cold air is coming in and humidity is 70 percent
The furnace is not running
Hi. I have a 110,000 btu oil furnace with a .85 hp blower. Originally all the intake air was supplied at the blower on the basement floor were there was a 14" by 20" opening for the filter. The furnace had no return duct at all. I had work done by a professional and a 8" x 18" duct was added to extend across the basement and two returns were added to the first floor. The two returns grilles about 6 by 12 inch in size are coming from 7" oval duct off of the larger 8" x 18" duct. My question is: Isn't this going to seriously restrict the return air volume to the furnace and also effect efficiency? I read that 7" duct has a cfm of 150, so total with the two returns is just 300 cfm for the furnace.
Hi Bryce, I will have to consult an HVAC contractor that we work closely with. This was more of a design idea for basements and your question is above my knowledge level. I'll see what I can find though!
Ok so here we go. The main 8"x18" trunk is sufficient but you are most definitely restricted as for the amount of returns. Basically that furnace will put out 1200-1400 CFM of supply. Your air returns should equal that plus 10%. Roughly you should have a 24-30" grille upstairs in a common area and a 14" grille in each room. Then your basement should have at least a 24-30" return in a common area. Hard to tell exactly but I think this should help. Cheers!
Kody Horvey Thank you so much for the info on the amount of return air needed for the system! Looks like I am going to need a lot more return ducts which is what I suspected.
Bryce Taylor Glad to help!
I have a question, I moved into a home that in the lease said AC was included. Turned out there is no AC. This was discussed with the landlord after learning and they agreed to pay a portion if it stays here. LL asked me to find one for them so I did, i got one to fit my square footage of my living space downstairs and am now being told their air return is sending my colder air from the A/C window unit through the vents and into the rest of their house making them "cold". From your video, it doesn't sound like it's possible. The window unit is a higher window, I really only feel it at head height, and there is one vent lower in the wall that blows air into the room and another one that might be a return vent. (lower) and then I have two in the ceiling. Is this person legitimate in thinking my 10000 BTU AC that barely cools my whole room, circulates through the vents in the rest of their home cold enough to cause a problem? I know hot air rises so I didn't think there was a way they would receive my AC cooled air.
very helpful video
Great video. Thanks!
Hello, thank you for the video. I have a quick question. My basement has 2 closed in rooms (bedroom and bathroom). I have a cold air return in the bottom wall of the open common area, but I am looking at what is the best option for CAR for the bath/bed rooms. It is best to run a CAR duct directly to the closed-in rooms, or is it ok to simply leave an opening from each of these rooms to the common area to allow for air-flow back into the common area. Thanks!
I think that your best bet would be to run return to those rooms, if you can. it would make the individual rooms more comfortable, especially if they are zoned.
At 2:18 in the video, where you add the "cold air return" on the floor directly into the furnace. How could this be done, if the return air portion of the furnace is on the opposite side (away from the wall where you drew the vent)?
Finally found a video that addresses my situation. I have a partially finished basement, with a lower cold air return on the finished side and a ceiling cold air return on the unfinished side. Should I close the ceiling cold air return on the unfinished side during the winter or just leave it open?
I would just leave it open. It's always good to have air movement
Kody Horvey Thanks
Why are the heating vents by the floor? Seems nuts to have them in the ceiling.
Just because it’s too difficult to put heat supplies down low in a basement because they would have to be ducted inside the walls. Not that it’s impossible but just more work.
@@uptokode A bottom return also represent ductwork inside a wall cavity if connecting it to the return trunk, which would be overhead in a basement.
rocket science !!
I advice you to make the supply hot air low ,,,,, and the return hot air high,,,, as the hot air no normaly goes up ,,, the circulation will be my ch better .... Plus the low return air will suck dust bad for fan
i don't have cold air in my basement i have them up stairs so where do i go from here ?
Is the basement finished? If so that’s not the end of the world. Have an HVAC guy take a look. Usually there’s a spot in the mechanical room that you can pop in an air return.
If not finished same goes. Get an HVAC or furnace guy to look and offers some ideas. This is very easy to a pro so don’t let them fool you.
Major hassle. I installed in wall electric heaters in each room. You only heat the room you want heated. Cheaper and works great. Use ducting for a/c and fan, or a mini split.
This is also a viable solution!
Returns only have the ability to influence air movement 18 to 24 inches in front of the grill everything you're explaining in your video well there's no other way to put it is it's wrong so please stop perpetuating the incorrect assumptions. Here is a real example of what I'm talking about, put your hand in front of your face and blow into it, you can feel that right. Now leaving your hand the same distance away suck real hard, you can't feel that right. That is how a fort in Klein fan move there and it's a demonstration as the show everything that your drawing on the board is incorrect please stop telling people to do this because it is wrong
Ed....when air is removed from one area (that 18" in front of the cold air return you describe) it is ALWAYS replaced by other air. It's how warm and cold fronts create WIND in weather. So just because you may not "feel" that air, if you draw air from in front of the register, it will indeed create low pressure that is backfilled by air from elsewhere in the room.
Want proof ? Look at how a whole house fan works.
@Ed Janowiak.. why so many ppl like yourself not considering b4 commenting something negative ,to think,or better yet check,educate yourself on the topic, just type a few letter into a great invention ill introduce you to "Google" .. Trying to sound "smart" about something just assuming you know.. correction your kind walk around thinking you know everything and better than others.. you just embarrassed yourself ..doesnt that bother you? Be humble be kind and nothing wrong with sharing your opinion but if you trying to educate or interject make sure you checked to b safe u know it correctly..quiet in the room is a strong person dont worry.. especially when a kind person helping others out of his good will and kind heart,you really shouldn't barge in and try to argue with your pants down pockets turned out all grey matter in that melon in a koma from not exercising ,being a true donkey and most importantly you not even considering to help others like our real expert in the video..god bless everyone
@@MrEuroWolfie Go educate who your addressing and get back to me.
@@headcoach2721go buy a copy of Manual T (air distribution basics) , learn how a ducted systems work (its different than the whole house fan comparison you used).
I gave the video a thumb down because this video is short of what an actual house duct may be. I’m 15 years experience dealing everyday with installing and fixing hvac.