Very interesting saw technique, how to fell tree in its natural direction,. Thats new to me and i like it very much. All the details you provide helps alot. I havent heard of anything simulare here in Sweden. Thx!
I found that my 592 needs a longer bar than I need to put any load on the motor. To remedy the excessive over-rev I went up to an 8 pin sprocket. Now my chain speed is up, cut is faster, engine is in its powerband and not bouncing off the limiter. Basically to me if your running something under a 28” full comp it’s geared too low.
The honesty is much appreciated however the very center is usually kicked of in a 4x4, 6x6, or 7x9 for blocking, pallets or rail ties so fiber pull in the very center isn't the end of the world. Im aware as a logger you know this but other viewers may not. Good video
As a game of logging instructor and logger I have to disagree with your notch hinge length and thickness…please don’t take this as disrespecting you because I am not. IMO, and what we have learned from Soren, your notch opening should be 70 degrees or more, the hinge length should be 80% of the diameter and thickness should be 10% of the diameter. Obviously then we bore cut the tree with the back cut level with the bottom of the notch…cutting this way you can wedge and manipulate the direction the fall vs the way they are leaning. Hence the term “directional falling” again this is all my opinion…however, I believe it is factual that it is the safest way to fell trees. Again this is my opinion and how I train loggers to feller trees. Regardless stay safe out there and enjoy cutting that nice timber
I think your basic blueprint for falling a tree is good but think a professional should be able to adjust to his methods taking efficiency, economics, safety, and his surroundings into account. If everyone out there try’s to cut every tree the way you described your going to have a lot of timber falling the wrong direction. What are your thoughts on this statement.
@@Good.Fellers I’m sorry but I have to disagree…first I’ll say this, your methods/s work no question asked whatsoever! And if I were a homeowner I would absolutely trust you to cut a tree at my house over someone who learns on UA-cam! However, this method is actually quite simple…if your using the sights on your saw (most people have no idea there are sights on a saw) to fell in the direction you want, then IMO do your down cut first (some people do the bottom cut and can make the two cuts meet perfectly), it is very important not to create bypass whether that is down or in…make sure both cuts match, you want that tree to break off evenly the whole way across the hinge. Next make sure your back cut is level or as close to level as the bottom of your notch. Remember your hinge only needs to be 10% maximum of the diameter of the tree. If that hinge runs the whole way across the notch opening and it’s hinge length is at least 80% of the diameter, you have full control of that tree. (Especially a white oak) this is by far the most safe and controlled fall you can have. If the bore cut is done correctly that tree does not move until you release it from the back and are headed out your escape path. 87% of fatalities that happen in the woods happen within 10-15 of the stump. In 2020 loggers died at a rate of 90 deaths per 100,000 workers while the national average of fatalities is 3.4 per 100,000… I just want us brothers and sisters of the trade to be safe out there! It really bothers me that our fatalities are so high. I hope that I explained it a little better. Thank you for the dialogue.
Nice drop !! I like your approach and cutting style…..just curious as to why you choose Husky….if I may ask. Also, do you use the 592 or 395 to limb these large oaks too? Keep the video’s coming 🪵⛓🪚👍👏🇺🇸 Rick
I generally will cut with one saw a day, felling and limbing unless there’s a breakdown. I’m not sure how to answer why I use husky’s other then they seam like a better performing saw for what I do. I owned one 660 like 12 years ago and I sold it off quickly.
My husband would love to spend a week just watching your techniques in the woods
Ill keep the videos coming.
Thanks for your views, time and content.
Greatly appreciated. All the way from Australia 🇦🇺
Awesome thank you!
Interesting channel. I’ll be watching all the videos your putting out 👍
Great glad to have ya!
Great job! Good looking white oak!! I’m really glad I found your channel, it’s nice to see someone felling like I was taught. Keep up the great work!!
Hey thanks Nathan.
Glad to have ya on the team!
Great commentary! Love your channel!
Thank you very much Shredder1104!!!
It was me that asked about predominantly using the top of your bar to cut. I appreciate your explanation and point of view. Keep at it!
Awesome! I will have another video coming out Monday!
Very interesting saw technique, how to fell tree in its natural direction,. Thats new to me and i like it very much. All the details you provide helps alot. I havent heard of anything simulare here in Sweden. Thx!
Thank you!
I found that my 592 needs a longer bar than I need to put any load on the motor. To remedy the excessive over-rev I went up to an 8 pin sprocket. Now my chain speed is up, cut is faster, engine is in its powerband and not bouncing off the limiter. Basically to me if your running something under a 28” full comp it’s geared too low.
Thank you!
Excellent info to have, I’m going to put a 8 pin mine and try it out!
I didn't know you had TWO Husqva-Stihl hybrids. I only have non-hybrid Stihls. I'm jealous.
Lol, I’ve got more then two!
Awesome videos!
Thank you! Miketoney!!!
Looks like a really sharp chain!
I like to say it’s dull or it’s sharp….no in between
Great video
Thank you!!!!
The honesty is much appreciated however the very center is usually kicked of in a 4x4, 6x6, or 7x9 for blocking, pallets or rail ties so fiber pull in the very center isn't the end of the world. Im aware as a logger you know this but other viewers may not. Good video
Yes I agree on the center blocking wood but pride is still a issue. Lol
Thank you!
As a game of logging instructor and logger I have to disagree with your notch hinge length and thickness…please don’t take this as disrespecting you because I am not. IMO, and what we have learned from Soren, your notch opening should be 70 degrees or more, the hinge length should be 80% of the diameter and thickness should be 10% of the diameter. Obviously then we bore cut the tree with the back cut level with the bottom of the notch…cutting this way you can wedge and manipulate the direction the fall vs the way they are leaning. Hence the term “directional falling” again this is all my opinion…however, I believe it is factual that it is the safest way to fell trees. Again this is my opinion and how I train loggers to feller trees. Regardless stay safe out there and enjoy cutting that nice timber
Thank you for the well thought out and respectful comment. Be safe out there.
I think your basic blueprint for falling a tree is good but think a professional should be able to adjust to his methods taking efficiency, economics, safety, and his surroundings into account. If everyone out there try’s to cut every tree the way you described your going to have a lot of timber falling the wrong direction. What are your thoughts on this statement.
@@Good.Fellers I’m sorry but I have to disagree…first I’ll say this, your methods/s work no question asked whatsoever! And if I were a homeowner I would absolutely trust you to cut a tree at my house over someone who learns on UA-cam! However, this method is actually quite simple…if your using the sights on your saw (most people have no idea there are sights on a saw) to fell in the direction you want, then IMO do your down cut first (some people do the bottom cut and can make the two cuts meet perfectly), it is very important not to create bypass whether that is down or in…make sure both cuts match, you want that tree to break off evenly the whole way across the hinge. Next make sure your back cut is level or as close to level as the bottom of your notch. Remember your hinge only needs to be 10% maximum of the diameter of the tree. If that hinge runs the whole way across the notch opening and it’s hinge length is at least 80% of the diameter, you have full control of that tree. (Especially a white oak) this is by far the most safe and controlled fall you can have. If the bore cut is done correctly that tree does not move until you release it from the back and are headed out your escape path. 87% of fatalities that happen in the woods happen within 10-15 of the stump. In 2020 loggers died at a rate of 90 deaths per 100,000 workers while the national average of fatalities is 3.4 per 100,000…
I just want us brothers and sisters of the trade to be safe out there! It really bothers me that our fatalities are so high. I hope that I explained it a little better. Thank you for the dialogue.
This is exactly the way I cut a tree down
Awesome!!
Mantap mesinya bos
Thank u sir
How to mount Stihl bar for Hasqvarna ?
Very hard to this way and Chain will dead by sand.
I have a small adapter, I’ll show it in a video.
Major stump pull!!! Nice cut though for the most part!
Lol yeah kind of embarrassing! Lol
@@Good.Fellers lol. It happens. Anybody who says it doesn’t is a liar!!!
@@JBiz879 that’s the real honest truth.
Only time I seen trees cut like you do is in the northeast ! I've never cut that way and never will !!
Why not?
why not stihl?
Husqvarna seams work better for my program at this point. Things could change down the road, but I don’t see it happening anytime soon.
Cuz they suck
What kind of chain do you run on that? Any different from what you’d choose for a 395?
Husqvarna x cut chain is what I’m currently running on both saws.
Are you going to do any videos about sharpening and maintaining chains?
@@Zackronym yes I will do some videos on sharpening in the future and also maintaining and set up!
Hate when that happens. Still a great fell.
It’s happens sometimes.
Yet another great video! Love the content. Do you skid with just the bulldozer?
I have a couple skidders as well.
Oh cool. Just curious then, why are you using the bulldozer?
@@devronzea1042 The property this is job is on has a wet spot we need to cross that would be impossible in a wheeled machine.
Ive not run any 5series saws yet.
You probly should there light
Nice drop !! I like your approach and cutting style…..just curious as to why you choose Husky….if I may ask. Also, do you use the 592 or 395 to limb these large oaks too? Keep the video’s coming 🪵⛓🪚👍👏🇺🇸 Rick
I generally will cut with one saw a day, felling and limbing unless there’s a breakdown. I’m not sure how to answer why I use husky’s other then they seam like a better performing saw for what I do. I owned one 660 like 12 years ago and I sold it off quickly.
@@Good.Fellers Thanks, appreciate the fast response. 👍
@@Living-The-Dream no prob I appreciate the comment and hope you subscribe if you haven’t already
@@Good.Fellers Yep, I was one of your first Sub’s 😎 you bring something very different to the table !
@@Living-The-Dream I’m glad you like it!
Let me know in the future what you think while the channel develops.
395 are turd saw and heavy. I have 2 of them and my stihl 064 ported muffler mod 8 pin sprocket way more power and 10 cc less
Ha Good joke!