Engine Wear Metals After 16 Track Days
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2024
- My MX5 has now done a total of 2,105 miles on track with 595 of those miles since the last oil change. Is this type of use causing excessive wear to my engine? I sent the oil off to a laboratory to find out what wear metals are present in the engine oil and how the oil has been holding up to this kind of use.
00:00 The car
00:41 The kit
01:56 The oil
03:33 The analysis
10:33 The conclusion - Авто та транспорт
I like how straight forward this channel is. No clickbait, no over excitement, no dumb music. Just simple and didactic
agree on that, to 127%... only issue with that: most of the audience / people out there are looking for "fun" and "entertainment" and only few of them are seeking actual information... so the most popular channels are either absolute pro combining both, or way more likely, entertainer pretending doing technical stuff at their won. Sad, but not new to human beings (and being human)
No dumb music! Yes! So annoying when they do that over dramatic pretence. All for nothing but a simple answer at the end of the video.
that kind of rust on the underside is pretty rough for a 3 year old car... you weren't kiddingg when you mentioned it in the last review
I noticed that as well. Feel sorry for people who live in places where it snows.
My 22 year oil Fiat is not even close to having this kind of rust but I live in southern Greece and it never snows.
yeah i noticed it too, but he said "its still a baby"
@@xynostasos9022I’m not even close to having an STD, even though I never had sex. Your statement sounds like this. I heard cars in Italy and Greece get destroyed by accidents, never by rust
@@MarcusAntonius415 the cars in Greek islands have a tendency to rust badly. I've also heard many Germans that pressure wash the underside of their cars every day during the winter to avoid rust problems. The thing is modern cars are galvanized and should hold together for at least 8 years before rust signs appear. The fact that this Mazda has this much rust so early to me looks like poor metal quality.
In the US, a company called Blackstone Laboratories does the same type of oil analysis. They provide universal averages for the elements measured in the oil, so you can get a sense of how "normal" your oil is. Below are the universal averages (in parts per million) for wear metals for a car with about 100,000 miles (my car's approximate mileage):
aluminium: 3
chromium: 0
iron: 7
copper: 4
lead: 0
tin: 0
nickel: 0
manganese: 0
silver: 0
titanium: 3
Thank you.
I love this British guy. I know wrong channel but thanks for helping me learn manual. Also you're just really interesting and calming to listen to, with your manner of speaking and great explanation abilities.
Your engine is nowhere near in the heat range or at high heat for long enough to require racing oil. Good bit of analysis like this saves a whole load unnecessary spending and effort.
I think a transmission oil test would be just as if not more important than a engine oil test; since I hear a lot more talk about the transmission wear in heavy track use for the ND.
Yes it does. I did swap the oil on mine once in 10k milles of trackday use.
True true. The earlier the model year is of the ND the higher the risk for transmission failure (gears in 2016/2017 models), or if too new (2022 and 2023) synchros issues. At lease these have higher changes of issues, but the synchro issues are independent of the track usage.
That would be quite interesting too, but IMO harder to conclude one way or the other if the track use affected the results since not nearly as many people analyze their gear oil, so there aren't as many results to compare it to.
I'm not sure about these specifically, but as a very general rule of thumb, transmissions tend to wear out and fail before engines do.
Mazda have really made a great engine here and obviously made sure that cooling is sufficient and that the sump controls oil levels well so that the engine does not experience oil surge on track ! Great work Mazda 👍
1:58 I highly recommend you to get the underbody etc. rust proofed with fluid film, mike sanders or something similar. For 3,5 years that amount of (surface-)rust looks really bad. My ND is a little over 5 years old and I just got it rust-protected. My chasis was completly rust-free, wich probably has to do with the fact that i am living far away from the coast. However I still drove the car daily over the course of 4 years, including in the wintertime with salt covered roads.
Things rust it's inevitable. Mine has been rusting like that since 10 years ago and there's no important damage. It's not that fast of a process unless you're driving on salt lakes maybe lol. Trying to rust proof and remove rust all the time is just a massive time and money sink.
@@gamesmaster1060 excuse me, but thats a load of bollocks... if the underside of the car is that rusty after only a few years, you can imagine how it is going to look in another 5 years. if you plan on selling the car anyway, then whatever. but if you plan on driving the car for a longer time then taking 1000-2000 euros to preserve the car sound more like a good investement than a "money sink". its no secret that miatas suffer from rust issues, NA to NC it has been confirmed. in recent times the first few NDs are starting to fall victim to rust, and there is no reason why the ND would suffer a different fate than NA-NC in the future. Telling yourself that your car "has been like this for 10 years and its all sunflowers and sunshine" sounds alot like copium to me. the rust that you can directly see often isnt what causes non repairable damage; the bad rust starts for example on the inside of the frame, fenders, rocker panels. when you can see this rust its already to late, because only at this moment the car becomes a money sink if you choose to repair it...
@@PidseriaWinkleroni Ironic you say im coping when your the one that seems to be doing that. I have no reason to cope I am just saying that obvious signs of undercarriage rust happened a long time ago and had no problems. Maybe I will get problems later on but it would of took a long time to get there. Even longer for a car that isnt known for rusting issues
I'd be treating those subframes and lower arm bolts to some Dinatrol 3125 or similar.
Agree on the 5w/30
Yes, I was disappointed but also not surprised to see the beginnings of the metal moth that MX5s have always had. I’d seriously accept a 20kg weight penalty on the car if only they rustproof the things to at least a half decent standard.
I'm shocked at how bad they are. I have a 1992 Mazda that looks almost brand new by comparison. But I live in a country with a mild climate and no salt on the roads
@@smithp573 I doubt it would even be 20kg. It's just cost saving
@@RedBatRacing It's the salt that wrecks everything.
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Funny thing is that my 2020 came with some wax based rust proofing from factory. Car was sold in Germany, so it might be market dependent.
It's unbelievable how reliable an engine in a consumer car is. To be fair, it is still "only" 27,000 miles and about 7.8% of these miles are driven hard. Nevertheless it is still good result, though I don't have anything to compare it to. This is why I don't believe people when they say cars are built to fall apart after five years so that you have to buy a new one.
Proud owner of a Mazda 3 BN here and I'm glad to see these results. Fantastic car to drive, especially the G165 version. And to think the Miata is lighter with more HP.. God bless Mazda
Super interesting. Thanks for going to the effort of analysing the oil and making the video.
I love your MX5 videos, very informative.
Mazda are in a completely different league when it comes to building engines that are designed to be thrashed. Seeing your oil analysis really drives that point home. I've been sending the oil from my 150k mile Mazda 2 off to have it looked at every 7500 odd miles or so since I've bought it, and the results from your car look bang on to what i've been seeing, save for the fact that my 2 is a dedicated daily driver!
250k miles on my k20 in my integra and still brand new. Revving to over 9k on stock oil pump and valves and pretty much last 100k miles have been fast road or track miles. I think any manafacturer should be able to make an engine that wont break down from 30k miles 😆
yay, new video, let's gooo!
Hope all is good, Richard, and you can post more often again :)
Thank you. I would like to but it's time that limits the videos.
Dude you're my hero! Awesome channel! 👌👍
Thank you! I track my ND too and this gives me extra confidence I’m not wrecking the engine. These are so bulletproof that I figured that was case but it’s nice to have some science applied!
Hi Richard, as always awesome content, straight and to the point.
I would love to see your tips and maintenance schedule for the rooftop.
I'm in the market for an mx5 near the end of next year. The journey you've shared since the first year have been a fantastic viewing experience, and tells me exactly what I want to know. Safe to say, I'm definitely getting one 👌
Excellent video mate. Thanks for sharing
Thruxton track day looks great hope you enjoyed it, it's a 10 minute drive for me
Emjoyed the video. More of this 👍
Great video, thanks!
Great video, something to consider: While your oil is holding up well, post track days, it means your oil filter is doing its job, not allowing metal particles back in to float about. Periodic compression testing is another metric.
Heat is your #1 enemy, so consider short shifting when temps rise on track.
Glad your enjoying car for what its engineered for!!
That is actually good info. Some engines are so well engineered and assembled they can just seemingly be flogged all day with no issues.
Yes Richard hope alls well
Great engine !
nice video! (like how you changed the title!)
Good stuff.
VEry nice vid. Analysis of gearbox of this car would be also interesting.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing! These results definitely support your opinion that redlining a healthy and fully warmed up engine generally won't cause any problems or excessive wear. I've always believed that proper maintenance and respectful treatment (warming up gently and not slamming gears for example) is what makes cars last rather than babying them and these results support my theory too.
Great video
I think copper is part of the cylinder head assembly
I change my oil every 5000 KM and push the engine a LOT but unfortunately there aren't any oil analysis centers in my country
man i love the mx5 i have a mk1 but im quite tempted to get a new one they look so good
I track a 2nd Gen Mazda3 with the first generation skyactiv 2.0l engine (same engine as the ND1 Miata). Similar results as you, but my engine has 173,000 miles on it. I've been running Motul 300v in 0w-20 per a recommendation by Corksport. I might look into using 5w30 though, as I do remember something in the owners manual about running it for "shorter oil change intervals". Excellent video and breakdown.👌🏻
Would be interesting to see the results of the same test on your Leon
I'm glad you mentioned the effects of ZDDP on catalytic converters. (It also affects oxygen sensors) I would have advised you on that in the comment. It's a good thing you're aware of that, cats are very expensive!
Copper and lead together is when you get alarmed this is bearing failure. Your engine is absolutely fine.
morning Richard very interesting video the calcium is part of the additive package in the oil but it is a small amount in the oil these days they use magnesium instead as this helps to stop low speed pre ignition in turbocharged direct injection petrol engines. the lead and the copper will be from the big end and main bearings on the crankshaft but you are right nothing to worry about. I went on a visit to Millers back in the early nineties the were using a mass spectrometer even back then.
I'm not sure if my bearings are made from copper though. Apparently it may be aluminium but I'm trying to find out.
@@RichardFanders the bearing shells are made of steel plated with copper and a second plating of lead/tin
the lead engineer says the motor can sustain 1.4 lateral G's, it's a proven race motor thanks to spec series so at this pt it's more accurate to measure by hours for non-street use
..also you're more likely having to pay attention to the trans
Richard, I'd love to see you do the same oil analysis on your Leon. Would be interesting to see after 200,000 miles how well that engine is holding up.
Great content. Some thoughts, years ago I watched a Japanese video where the tuner said that we should pay more attention to the gearbox oil after doing track days than the engine oil. He was saying that the manual transmission oil goes through a lot more stress on a track than the engine oil does.
Also, surprised and impressed that you're using Mannol. I only really use that on my very low value cars that already burn/leak oil. I think they don't carry any manufacturer approvals so whilst they say they've designed it for VW or Renault etc. specifications, no one has actually verified that they meet those standards. That's why you don't find them in any car dealership, or national chain style garages, or most motor factors. Good to see that the oil analysis looked good, I wonder if it would've looked better with a premium oil such as Mobil1 or Castrol etc. maybe in another video?
According to the data sheet the oil I used is approved by: Ford, Volvo, Jaguar, Land Rover and Fiat. I also use mannol in my SEAT Leon, which apparently has VW 504/507 approval. Not had a problem with the oil yet, just seems like good value to me. Do you have experience with mannol being below quality?
@@RichardFanders if you look at the datasheet, it says "approval RECOMMENDATION" and then lists a bunch of OEM standards for oil. Now compare that to Comma XTech 5w30 for example, they list the OFFICIAL APPROVAL from Ford for a particular Ford standard, and they even provide a Ford letterheaded document that confirms that Ford approve that particular oil for that particular standard.
Basically, any oil manufacturer can say that they have designed or blended their product with a particular OEM standard in mind, but the more expensive oils will actually have the product approved by that OEM. Getting it approved costs money.
There is an argument that it only really matters for engines that are still under warranty, and I do sort of agree with that notion... You've done the testing and confirmed that this oil is perfectly fine, the only thing more interesting than that would be to do another test using a more premium oil that carries lots of official approvals to see if the used oil analysis shows anything different.
I'm not hating on the Mannol stuff, I buy it in bulk for our family fleet, we just don't use it in the higher value cars for that extra peace of mind because they don't go through that manufacturer audit process. Btw they may have gone and got official approval for some of their oils now, they have many many varieties, I only confirmed the above for the particular oil used in your video!
My A4 B5 from 99' is less rusty that this Miata. Considering that I live in Poland, where salt is commonly used during winters and that since I bought this car, I park it outside whole time for around 8 years, I am glad I bought A4 B5. Many other cars wouldn't survive it. 😝
Your oil seems to be very fine. I am also using a little bit thicker oil, 5W50, since I also trackday my car from time to time and I think it serves this engine well with higher load.
I have factory oil temp gauge and on track I keep it around 110°C, not exceeding 120°C. While daily driving, oil temp is around 90°C, on Highways or in the summer in city jams goes up to 100°C.
Richard as always, a great analysis. It's good that a UA-camr goes into the actual science of this stuff which is what other chanels lack, and it allows you to put all the heresy and conspiracy theories to bed. I'm assuming 5w30 is also added by Mazda during servicing? edit: I wander about the diff / gearbox oil condition? I'm told annual changes help prevent failiure but this maybe heresy too.
I've changed the gearbox and diff oil twice so far.
Very intersting especially as I also use Mannol FR in a 4Cyl that sees track time (although nowhere near as much). I have considered going for 40, but the oil pressure is already so high and holds quite well all the way up to 100c and beyond, I haven't bothered. Going slightly into the 20 range isn't a concern given most 20 oils will also get thinner with time - so it's still thicker than if you had used a 20.
when the same guy who taught me how to drive is telling me how to track drive
Thanks the video, it was intresting. I would like to know how it performs on a dyno test after that kind of driving :) it could be an another good engine health test to get a bigger imagine about the engine.
If is used the right oil for the driving conditions and is being regularly early serviced, the engine will live for many years of trackdays.
My Nn18 cooper 2013 base model Stage2 mod with Stage2 parts had already 10000 milles of trackdays with 101000 milles total driving.
Still going smooth as day 1. Only noise you can hear is off, is the accesories pulley as the rubber is having wear and tear but easy to reemplace . Everything else works wonderful.
informative
Hi Rich, I always enjoy watching your videos even tho I am not new to driving and your tips are always so helpful. For your Direct Injection 2L MX5, what do you think about the potential carbon deposit behind the intake valves like it appeared on your leon? I saw other people opinions to install an external oil catch can to be preventive. What do you think about it? Do you think having regular oil change and good quality of fuel are good enough? Share your thoughts
I assume it will suffer from carbon build up at some point but as I drive it hard on track it may be better. Time will tell. I would not use a catch can as changing the positive crankcase ventilation system may cause harm to the engine or affect how it runs. Also, it will likely have condensation issues.
This is properly nerdy, good stuff man. Are the NDs worth sticking a baffled sump in?
Apparently from factory they can do 1.4 sustained lateral G and maintain oil pressure. No modifications needed for driving on track with road tyres. Only high temperature brake pads.
@@RichardFanders that's really excellent. Pulling a G laterally for any sustained period is really going some in a road car. Only would really need touching if you're going on slicks/really crazy semis then.
Hope you're well man!
Hope you're well too. I think even British Touring Cars only peak over 1.4 G, if I was starting to get anywhere near that I would want a track prepared car with roll cage and harnesses and be in a position where I was less bothered about damaging the car as there is not much margin for error cornering with that level of force.
Calcium and Magnesium content indicates detergents and dispersants. Zinc is a measure for ZDDP which is an antiwear additive. Molybdenum also indicates antiwear additives, as does Boron.
Typical wear metals are Iron, Chrome, Aluminum, Silicium and Nickel. These mostly come from pistons and cylinder surfaces.
Softer metals like Lead and Copper indicate bearing material.
Thanks RIchard. Very interesting. Testomony on how well sorted the MX5 engine is.
If you feel like splashing out another £40 it would be interesting to have the results of the same test on your Seat Leon after a longlife service interval. There are mixed opinions on long life intervals, if would be good to see the facts.
I was thinking the same but I don't do as many miles in that now and I don't like leaving the oil longer than a year. When I used to do 18,000 mile oil changes, those changes occured every 7-9 months.
I don’t think you’re officially a car guy until you have a moment like 2:46
1 ppm moly. is probably leftover from a diffrent oil that used it as a friction modifier. 7 ppm silicon can be from airfilter yes, but also from a oil filter. seeing copper is a bit concerning if it's from the bearing, as these are not supossed to wear. millers have a ''trackready'' oil called ee performance, wich is ment for regular road but also trackdays. might be a good fit for you
Given your track driving, how frequently do you change the oil? As for vanadium, I think it's used for coating the engine internals like the pistons, crankshaft and cylinders, anything that's under a lot of thermal stress.
It would be interesting to know if using engine flush would have impact on oil test..??
Poor Miata alredy getting rusty at such young age!! I think some Hammerite treatment is in order.. 😉
Thanksnfor another interesting video Richard 👍
Excellent video. I recently bought one of the Miller oil analysis kits, interesting to hear your results.
Although copper can come from oil coolers, most now are aluminium brazrd and have no copper like old style ‘copper brass’ radiators.
I thought i was schizophrenic, because half of a video i was pretty sure that this guy was an instructor, until i googled "how to shift manual" and his channel was at the top
Do you have any videos on gear shifting while on track? Do you drop the clutch? Any on heel toe on track? Thank you!
5:36 I would periodically use a "complete fuel system cleaner" fuel additive that has PEA in it as it could help reduce fuel dilution a bit.
copper I'd assume is an additive of sorts? You're right in that if copper was in the bearings or something it would likely be coated or plated. For example, chrome plating is often used in the aerospace industry on bearings because of its low friction and high wear-resistance, so that would perhaps be one to watch out for.
I hope oils well
😂
Mannol is quality oil. I've ran Mannol oils in my car and family cars for a few years now. Everyone who "knows" cars always tells me that Mannol is some noname cheap stuff and that I should get castrol / mobil / shell instead. Well, bollocks. If it meets the specs (ACEA, API, manufacturer specs etc) it's a good oil.
Never really saw many used oil analysis data from Mannol oils so thank you for that video. Just reinforces my belief that spec equals good oil.
Also, Mannol is dirt cheap. I can get the oils that I need for about 4€ per liter. Going for any marketed brands you need to shell out atleast 8-10.
It seems to be good quality so far.
Does it matter if you sample the oil from the start of the drain vs towards the end/bottom of the drain? I imagine sediments would sit more towards the bottom but probably doesnt matter if the oil hasnt sat for too long.
Hi Richard, got a small question regarding the MX5: do you think it's an easy car to learn manual with? I'm aware it has a lightweight flywheel which could make it a bit difficult, but I am looking into getting one of these in manual just for the fun of it.
Silicone may be from gasket sealants. Calcium may be the detergent. Zinc may be anti wear additive.
Exacly why I do oil changes every 15-20000km. Never had any issues with any car ever after some 1.5 million kms.
Just changed the oil of my skyactive engine after 18000km. Felt like new.
VW recommends up to 30000km intervals on their cars... modern oils are insanely resilient
@@lptomtom yes, but in the States they change oil every 3000 miles. Long live misinformation and fear.
I used Millar oil analysis service and for some reason it didn't pick up the bearing material even though I followed their instructions. Not sure if it was due to the sample being taken from the first part of the flow of oil leaving the sump.
Good lord, you post some of the most considered and engaging content on yt, then get lambasted for a bit of rust under your car 😮
Viscosity dropped maybe because of the cold start just before the sample. Petrol during cold start can cause it, if you don't warm it up properly.
You could have sent a sample from either the old oil bottle or bought another new one of the same type to compare numbers at the lab.
How hard do you push engine on track? Early shift or just max revs all the time? And what mpg do you get? I managed to get around 14mpg (US) in my stock NB on track.
I only shift early if it helps me. I generally use all the revs.
3:22 - 5W30 and lower viscosities were introduced for legal reasons (emissions) and to lower fuel consumptin but they are not necessarily good for the engine.
As a rule of thumb in any track day/autocross, other motorsport used car you should switch to at least 5W40, and preferably 5W50 to lower the risk of breaking the oil film under full load in high temperature.
Another problem is, that if you go on racing tracks you are going to have high side g forces taking away oil from oil pump's intake, so you better do 'dry oil sump' modification.
The lack of these and use of 0W20 oil is what's killing Subaru BRZ/Toyota GR86 engines.
The whole viscosity recomendation is a complete bias, again caused by legal reasons in the EU. If you search for manuals for exact same engines they will have different recommended viscosities depending where the car was sold, and how strict the local emission regulations are. An engine that has recommended viscosity of 0W20 in Europe, often has oils such as 5W40, 10W40 and even 15W40 in American or Central Asian markets.
I just wouldn't recommend 15W40 because it has a tendency to cause 'dry start' and leaves dirt in an engine. At least older 15W40 oils did.
There's no oil "designed for an engine". If you watch the Speed Lake Jr videos, you will know that the single most important factor when choosing and oil is to know its operating temperature. Does your car have an oil cooler? If yes, then maybe you are fine with using a 5w30 oil. If not, I'd go with 15w50 high ZDDP oil or even 10w60 racing oil (which you of course dump after the track day is over). Ford for the Coyote 5.0 engine (Mustang GT) recommended 0w20 for normal use and up to 5w50 for racing use.
Use an A5/B5 oil but API SP, or at least SN Plus. I have no idea how that SN spec ended up in the owner's manual, but Mazda has a known reputation for messing up the oil specs recommendation (see the rotaries and the 2.3DISI-T platform).
Find the data sheet for the oil you put in and compare it to the millers results. That'll tell you how much off the additive package has changed.
Oil question: my Suzuki car also accepts 0W-20 and 5W-30 and I noticed that it runs smoother and quieter with the 0W-20, so that's what I use for daily driving. I did not start to go track days yet but I plan to, and I thought that I would change to 5W-30 before the track day and then back to 0W-20 for my daily driving. Would you see a problem with this viscosity changing, since some amount from the old oil will always remain in the block/sump? Thanks :)
I've not seen a problem. I've always used 5W30 though. I assume the factory fill was 0W20.
Its pretty crazy how crusty that car is after just a few years. Where i live, they dont look that bad after 30
Fuken awesome 😯👌
Do you plan on using fluid film or lanoguard on your car ? It seems to be getting quite rusty under there :/
Nothing at the moment. I'm guessing it rusts from the inside also. But it is something I think about every so often.
@@RichardFanders Alright 👍
I've sprayed my missus Focus with Hammerite affer having a gonat lose rust with a wire brush... it helped keep the rust off..
Thanks for the video, my God though, you guys get that much rust after 2100 miles...? I have 7100 on my ND2 in California and it literally still looks brand new underneath..
Can you make a video regarding how to go about racing in the UK? (e.g., track days, cost, equipment, requirements, and insurance)
I don't have any experience racing but I have done a track day guide: ua-cam.com/video/2uFktuZgws0/v-deo.htmlsi=A6WwIVJkrusUzNzg
Just pick your track, check their calendar on their website and book a trackday/evening, it's that easy mate. No insurance required, just make sure your car is well serviced. I recently had a track evening at cadwell park in the wet. Cost 90 for track time, spent 50 quid on fuel, used no oil, used 1mm of tyres and brake pads
Cars are meant to be used, send it
What about the diff oil? How often do you replace the diff oil, I’ve just got my MX5 and I’ve done it just to be sure as I don’t know the history.
Twice so for, about 18 months each time.
Surprised that there was no soot content as the oil was dark and discoloured.
Sounds like your engine in in good health tho.
Petrol will make the oil black.
I hope he waits a little more to change oil next time, the test proved it was unnecessary since the oil was still good
It really makes me wonder how long an ND2 drivetrain would last if driven as delicately as possible. The world may never know..1..2..
Great video! Maybe consider an A3/B4 high-HTHS 5w-30 that meets BMWLL01 like Castrol Syntec Euro Car?
High calcium and sulfate ash for direct injection high compression engine
@@mm-il8dg I have many friends who use full SAPS in their turbo DI engines without issue. Including this one. Absolutely zero LSPI.
@@DBravo29er you are right but it will increase the risk of lspi and intake valve deposit
@@mm-il8dg Not true at all. Porsche A40 is full SAPS, yet it's used in their TDI 3.0 991.2 & 992.1 motors. Zero issues with LSPI.
@@mm-il8dg Further, all MB229.5 oils are full SAPS. Blaming LSPI on SAPS/Calcium has not been born out by the data.
The engine may be mint, but I'd get that undersealed if I were you. Quite a lot of surface rust for such a young car.
Sup brother!
So the oil which was tested is Mannol 5w30, right?
Mannol 5w30 API SN ACEA A5/B5
That's right.
I’d worry more about the underside rust! You’d be better off spending your £40 on undercoating mate!
Calcium is a detergent additive.
Just a correction. It doesn't mean it's better on track because you put 5w30 into the engine instead of 0w30. the 0w is better in most cases at the start, and when the engine is still cold. No point in putting 5w into it. And into a turbocharger engine, you should put the thinner oil.
I was comparing 0W20 with 5W30.
youtube said i needed to take my car out and give it a beating
Seeing that rust is really concerning, in 10 years, these cars will be falling apart. Imagine having it as a daily in central Europe with all the salt during winter... Japanese cars aren't what they used to be.
Salt road daily driven MX5s have always had rust issues.
I don’t understand why people get the engine oil hot before draining it.
Cold oil just takes more time to drain but it will leave less oil in the car becase less is stuck up in the engine. Bonus: no risk of burns. Who’s in a hurry changing their own oil anyway?
I always change mine cold!
That's a valid point.
After 10 mins with the engine off 99% of oil is returned to the sump
It’s gonna come any moment now, hopefully not down my wrists. 💦
Hmm I wonder, the engine I have in my 2017 Mazda 3 (2.0L 165HP). Is this the same engine as in the Miata mentioned here? I know the one in my car is limited to 6500 RPM, and the Miata to 7000 RPM. But I doubt that is all it needs to get those extra 16 ponies. Maybe a slightly different tune? If someone has some extra info I would be interested to hear. Thanks!
Valve springs, larger exhaust valves and i believe exhaust manifold runners have been updated beetween ND1 and ND2
Timing is also slightly different
Mazda was in the hurry when ND 2.0 liter was released because they were not supposed to but they did due to american market, they would never buy only 1.5 liter
Still, all version are great even if the 184 is arguably the one that is offering the best package
@@floriandugoli5923 That’s nice to know, thanks for the info. I’ve seen the Mazda3 2.0L be tuned upwards of 180, but I’d like to make mine last lol.
@@Rockito912 i don't know where you are living but you can safely push it to 200hp with good exhaust, remap and cat cams
Full quality really matter on these engines
Great car btw 👍🏻
With full bolt on i saw an ND184 with 231 horsepower on dyno, kinda cool !
Was the car driven in the salt/snow? That's a lot of rust for a 3 year old car
Yes, gets driven in all weathers and has been to the alps twice.
I was a bit surprised that you trust that brand of engine oil. And I think modern street legal cars without actual cage and bucket seats are designed to be safe without wearing a helmet. Sometimes a helmet can cause more injury than safety.
I've not had problems with this brand of oil. There has been a few comments about the brand on this video but I've not heard of anyone having a problem with it. I buy it as it's up to standard, is manufacturer approved and good value.