Bowyer Pro Tip: Avoid This Critical Handle Design Mistake
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Complimentary fades are the secret to a robust and functional handle.
The fades are probably the most misunderstood part of the bow. In my tutorials this is the part the most people have struggled to get right. I hope this helps to fill in the gaps and clear up any confusion. Let me know if you have any more questions!
For some great examples check out historical bow designs. Many have subtle fades, but they are always there when needed. West coast paddle bows are some of my favorites-getting these fades right takes a subtle eye and serious mastery of the material.
For modern examples, check out Leonwood Bows for some amazing fades. Swiftwood Bows, HuntPrimitive, Clay Hayes, and Organic Archery all have fantastic build alongs with excellent fade design.
Great video my friend...
I watched a video a few weeks ago and the dude completely butchered them...
@@stevedaughton7247I saw it in a tutorial recently, and then others started copying the design. It’s always been a common mistake. At least now I have a quick link I can send to explain the topic. Fades are one of those things that are silly obvious to bowyers but will glance over so many beginners. Fades are definitely overlooked in most tutorials, mine included
@DanSantanaBows You mentioned on your drawknife video that you had to regrind the bevel on the curved narex to shallower angle. Did you also flatten the back of the drawknife since it is slightly curved "back bevel" or did you keep the original back? I am asking because I have the same knife and im looking for a way to improve the performance of it.
The bottom of that knife should be flat in cross section. I like the subtle curve, it helps you not to bottom out and hit exactly the spot you’re aiming for. I think only the bevel needs work. I don’t love the handles, I’ve thought of replacing them.
@@DanSantanaBowsThanks for the reply. The back is flat except for the first 3-5mm from cutting edge which is very slightly curved. I will widen the top bevel a bit and call it good.
congratulations on the video. Yes, you're right. I've had problems with friars, I know that the angle can be a problem if it's not working well
When you know explanations become straightforward. The problem is not knowing what you don’t know, and as you said, reinvent the wheel!! Great lesson!
Great tip at the end and I think you are absolutely right!
I can tell from own experience that I often failed to make something "a bit better" - I will remember you from now on when I start to overthink, I promise!
Thank you!
When you’re really ready to innovate then of course you will break with this advice. But most of the time we shouldn’t feel any pressure. There is no shame in standing on the shoulders of good designs from history. And there is still room to be original when we do this
@@DanSantanaBows I agree!
From my artist background i learned early to aim for perfection, knowing that perfection doesn't exist.
Your "rule" helps to stop the spiral in my mind that pushes me forward and to end a project instead of just park it and push it out because I have to. If you understand what I mean. You gave me a tool just with one clarification!
And for sure, creating and thinking about innovative new things is part of all the fun! I talk as an carpenter, it is a big puzzle game.
Good vid, Dan. “Complimentary/ Non-complimentary” is a great way to describe the relationship.
I think you said it well. It’s important point in many people don’t consider the seeds very much in my experience. People wanted to use all natural materials to build fantasy bows, and that never turned out very well so I tried to help them understand what was required. Great video. Keep them coming.👍👍🏹🏹
Thank you. Your explanation of how separation of the fades leads to bow failures is very clear and uncomplicated. It also explains why I had so many bows blow up on me.
Thanks for putting this into terms that we can all grasp Dan. Adding this to my existing library for reference.
I have recently built my very first bow and wow these videos really helped. I love a natural way of building with wood thanks
Thanks for this topic. I keep telling myself I'm going to make a traditional self bow. I've researched a lot of your videos as your explanations are very helpful and give me confidence that I can actually do it.. Maybe this summer I'll get to it...???
You’ve got this, and all the help you need!
Thank you! This info is needed. I see too many traditional wood bows where builder incorporates fg bow fade shapes. With too often disappointing result and discouraged builder.
Many thank for your videos and your informations.It s always a pleasure to watch your work.
Great video. This is exactly what happens to the last how I made! The stave was a little too thin so I tried to make it a little thinner on the limbs which led to the limbs and handles being basically the same width. That with a poor filler with serious hinges on the inner limbs only lasted 20 shots. Working in my next one now. I’m glad I took photos of the brake and was able to go back and refer them after seeing this video.
great tips
Another great video, just started on my second bow after my first attempt snapped during tillering right near the fade on the upper limb. I'll definitely be keeping this video in mind as I work on my second bow!
Could also be a sign you could’ve used more thickness taper through the mids and outer limbs
Great informal video as always
Thanks man. Always appreciate your perspective.
Thanks Primate, love your stuff! I’ve been working on a primitive fishing kit too but it’s a slow project
Thanks, Dan. 😊
Agreed
That last example….How did you get a picture of the bow I’m building right now? Jk great video.
@@Ari.el-ei2cd One of the examples here is from a tutorial you may have followed
😀👍
Hey Dan, is it even necessary to narrow the handle section? I have big hands/long fingers and prefer a wide handle. Since the handle isn’t bending anyway; there’s no problem with a thick AND wide handle, correct?
Personally I think it’s a mistake to fill your hand with the handle. The pressure point of the contact area should be relatively small anyway. In my opinion handle width is a technical choice, not a matter of fitting the bow to your body like shoe size.
That said, it’s your handle to do with as you like. The trade off is that a wide handle is less forgiving about arrow spine. You may have more difficulty finding arrows that are flexible enough for a good release, yet still sturdy enough for your draw weight
10-4 Thanks for the feedback bud!
I agree. But there's always going to be willy coyote trying to make a better wheel.
I'm with you but i want to be able to rely on nothing except my brain
Learning design fluency is the key if you want to be free from recipes
@@DanSantanaBowsI think I understand you but I'm a little slow. Ill keep replying! I hope you don't stop posting videos. I am trying to watch every single bow making video on the internet but you are my favorite teacher!
Clearly the proper lesson learned is that the classic D-shaped Longbow is superior.
Well actually.... No? Superiority should be at least be definded in context. For example desired use of the bow, the kind of wood thats been used, properties of the individual piece, given limitations of the person, environment, toolkit and so on.
The comment is clearly being facetious. However, even after having made 60+ bows of every design (holmegaard, molle, flatbow, west coast paddle, baker-style, etc), I still find myself coming back to the classic D-bow. I actually talked to Tim Baker about this, and he says the same thing! The D-bow is to bowyers as the crablike form is to evolution-- clearly superior!
It's certainly a classic. 😉