I own 3 APX guitars. Good comfortable electro acoustics. 2 were older solid top used ones in need of some work. I did a fret job on one, using stainless steel frets, and lowered the action on both used ones, as they also had a slightly warped bout . I put on 11 gauge acoustic strings and sanded the saddle as you did. Then some minor truss rod adjustments did the trick.
I've always liked Yamaha guitars, I think they are somewhat overlooked, probably because they do such a wide range. Stainless steel is a good choice for acoustics because they are subject to extra wear on the lower frets where most chords are played.
Awesome video, thanks. Cleaning the fretboard improves playability all on its own. The grit on softer fingers can be difficult. I bought an APX600 and it came with 12-53s also with pretty hgih action. Think it was 3mm at the 12th fret. Changed the stings out for 9s (D'addario XL has 9s for acoustic on Amaxon) and shaved the bridge a tiny amount (2 passes) and it's much improved.
I'm glad you found it of some use. I'll be making loads more videos soon, I'm busy setting up my new workshop in Somerset after a long and tricky move :)
Curt Mangan has acoustic 9-42 super light phosphor bronze. They didn’t have them on Amazon but I ordered strait from the Curt Mangan website. Haven’t received yet so don’t know how they sound.
I just bought the black APX600 and the action is killing my fingers. Played with it in the store for 5 minutes and didn’t seem that bad, but longer practice sessions are brutal. I’m going to switch the OEM 0.012” strings to 0.010 phosphor bronze. Just doing that, will that lower the action slightly? I have access to a machine shop so I have the ability to mill down the nut and saddle in 0.001” increments if needed. Edit: just saw your video again and you did answer my question. Great! Thanks and great video!! 👍🏻
Thanks. I just started using my APX600 after a long break and the action and strings were not optimal. So I'm getting some 9-42 strings and shaving 1mm off of the back bridge, and take it from there.
The lighter strings dont work to well on it in my experience. 11s or 12s you need for tyhis I think. Iv had 9s and 10s on mine and it dont tune as well as it should.
I found on my APX600 i needed to lower the saddle and the bridge. But didn't think about trying electric guitar strings to go to a 9. Can you explain the difference or pros and cons? Playability is the important aspect for me not volume.
Hi Robin, there's definitely a difference in the sound quality as you go down in gauge, especially with electric strings (which is usually the only way you can get really light gauges. Acoustic string sets have bronze wound strings, which sound good but don't work with electric guitar pickups. So the acoustic sound won't be so good, though you may well find the difference less apparent if using the acoustic pickup. To sum up, I suggest using light gauge (electric if necessary) and when you need a better sound quality, change back to acoustic strings.
@@kavanaghgtr1741 just I watched and commented on this video I found D'Addario now has acoustic 9-45 strings so I ordered some. They appear to be newly introduced so should be fun to try them out.
@@robinbebbington7063 That sounds like a very good idea Robin. Nice easy bottom end where the string tension is always going to be less, and lighter strings at the top.
I have the Fender Acoustic CD 60s a beginners guitar. Noticed the string action is too high and I understand that the saddle needs adjusting. To adjust the saddle I would also like to make attempts to improve the tone. Planning to buy the Tusk Nut, Saddle, and pins which will cost me about $60. My question is, would it be worth buying these items for a beginners guitar? Is it going to make a difference? Total beginner here with less than a year of learning.
Electric player here, with an APX600. Had mine just under 6 years now. They come fitted with .012s OOTB. I'm used to electric varying between .09s Strats, .010s Teles & Les Paul, and .011s on my Gretsch and .012s on an Ibanez Jazz., and I've never considered the action too high on my APX. Pretty good right out of the box with the default Urea nut and ABS saddle once neck relief is adjusted. EJ15s from DÁddario (.010s) is about as light as I'd want to go without completely killing acoustic tone or feel. BTW the guitar featured in this he vid is an APX500 of some suffix sub revision probably a III, not an APX600. The two have different profile necks, scale lengths (string tension) and string spacing among a few other differences (bracing). The APX600 also has a System 65 pre-amp with equalizer and AMF to shift mid boost centre point between 80hHz to 10KHz when amplified. Plays great.
Thanks for your response, though it's not clear to me whether you disapprove of what I did with the guitar in the video. I take your point about the loss of tone with the lighter strings but it was more important to the player at his current stage of learning that he be able to learn the fingering and to be able to successfully fret notes than he should get good tone (and volume of course). As for the model number, I'm not able to check the label again as it's a customer's guitar and I don't have access to it, so can't say for sure. maybe I made a mistake, maybe whoever put the labels on in the factory made a mistake, maybe they changed the model designations at some stage. You obviously know a lot about Yamaha acoustic guitars so if I ever see that guitar again I will be checking it carefully!
@@kavanaghgtr1741 No criticism intended. Was just outlining my thoughts on the APX600 as someone else with an APX600 chimed in in the comments echoing your comment about high action. The final version APX500 BTW was the suffix III. It was legend. It was superseded by the APX600 last quarter 2017. The scale length on the APX600 is marginally shorter scale -25" vs 25.6" of the APX500III, for lower string tension. String spacing is narrower too on the 600 at just 10mm, very friendly to smaller hands although I'm half and half on that. I think I prefer the wider string spacing on the APX500III but by the same token don't find the 10mm an encumbrance either. My other acoustics are 11mm. Comprehend entirely why you were fitting such light gauge strings and ensuring the action student friendly. I do all my own setups, mods & luthiering on all my guitars so appreciate your vids helping out someone to whom that's beyond their 'ken. Fitted a set of Crosby bone bridge pins to mine for fuller sound profiles across the frequency range. Still loving it after nearly 6 years. IDK why snobs refer to this as a beginners' guitar. Yamaha's 'get people into the brand' loss leader MO killer price point I expect. A lot of guitar for the money and the Spruce laminate top and Eastern Mahogany (Nato) sides sound most pleasing to my ear. I like loads of treble.
Anyone wishing to work and play with their guitars need to tell their techs not to cut off the ends of the stings right at the peg head. that instantly transforms these strings into once on only, then through away strings. Never could understand such a wastefull way of setting up one's guitar.
Our tech did that on the video knowing that he was going to remove three of them later to remove the saddle. Are you suggesting he binned those three and used three new ones?
I own 3 APX guitars. Good comfortable electro acoustics. 2 were older solid top used ones in need of some work. I did a fret job on one, using stainless steel frets, and lowered the action on both used ones, as they also had a slightly warped bout . I put on 11 gauge acoustic strings and sanded the saddle as you did. Then some minor truss rod adjustments did the trick.
I've always liked Yamaha guitars, I think they are somewhat overlooked, probably because they do such a wide range. Stainless steel is a good choice for acoustics because they are subject to extra wear on the lower frets where most chords are played.
Thanks ! About to take my APX 500 to shop. Now I can tell them what I want done!
Thanks for watching it. Sorry it was so long, I could have edited it down a lot.I will on the next one.
Awesome video, thanks. Cleaning the fretboard improves playability all on its own. The grit on softer fingers can be difficult. I bought an APX600 and it came with 12-53s also with pretty hgih action. Think it was 3mm at the 12th fret. Changed the stings out for 9s (D'addario XL has 9s for acoustic on Amaxon) and shaved the bridge a tiny amount (2 passes) and it's much improved.
I'm glad you found it of some use. I'll be making loads more videos soon, I'm busy setting up my new workshop in Somerset after a long and tricky move :)
Curt Mangan has acoustic 9-42 super light phosphor bronze. They didn’t have them on Amazon but I ordered strait from the Curt Mangan website. Haven’t received yet so don’t know how they sound.
Useful info thanks, I'll bear that in mind.
I just bought the black APX600 and the action is killing my fingers. Played with it in the store for 5 minutes and didn’t seem that bad, but longer practice sessions are brutal. I’m going to switch the OEM 0.012” strings to 0.010 phosphor bronze. Just doing that, will that lower the action slightly? I have access to a machine shop so I have the ability to mill down the nut and saddle in 0.001” increments if needed.
Edit: just saw your video again and you did answer my question. Great! Thanks and great video!! 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment, and please do say if there's anything I can add
Thanks. I just started using my APX600 after a long break and the action and strings were not optimal. So I'm getting some 9-42 strings and shaving 1mm off of the back bridge, and take it from there.
The lighter strings dont work to well on it in my experience. 11s or 12s you need for tyhis I think. Iv had 9s and 10s on mine and it dont tune as well as it should.
I enjoyed watching and listening to your work. Thank you.
That G string pin. I was yelling at you to pick up on it! Ha!
I found on my APX600 i needed to lower the saddle and the bridge. But didn't think about trying electric guitar strings to go to a 9. Can you explain the difference or pros and cons? Playability is the important aspect for me not volume.
Hi Robin, there's definitely a difference in the sound quality as you go down in gauge, especially with electric strings (which is usually the only way you can get really light gauges. Acoustic string sets have bronze wound strings, which sound good but don't work with electric guitar pickups. So the acoustic sound won't be so good, though you may well find the difference less apparent if using the acoustic pickup.
To sum up, I suggest using light gauge (electric if necessary) and when you need a better sound quality, change back to acoustic strings.
@@kavanaghgtr1741 just I watched and commented on this video I found D'Addario now has acoustic 9-45 strings so I ordered some. They appear to be newly introduced so should be fun to try them out.
@@robinbebbington7063 That sounds like a very good idea Robin. Nice easy bottom end where the string tension is always going to be less, and lighter strings at the top.
Really enjoyed this video thank you. 35 quid including strings? That seems tremendous value. Keep the videos coming, the style is perfect.
I have the Fender Acoustic CD 60s a beginners guitar. Noticed the string action is too high and I understand that the saddle needs adjusting. To adjust the saddle I would also like to make attempts to improve the tone. Planning to buy the Tusk Nut, Saddle, and pins which will cost me about $60. My question is, would it be worth buying these items for a beginners guitar? Is it going to make a difference? Total beginner here with less than a year of learning.
What gauge replacement strings! Thanks.
i would use 11s or 12s if i was you
Great video. Fyi audio is only in one channel. Im listening with one earphone on so took me a while to realise
Electric player here, with an APX600. Had mine just under 6 years now. They come fitted with .012s OOTB. I'm used to electric varying between .09s Strats, .010s Teles & Les Paul, and .011s on my Gretsch and .012s on an Ibanez Jazz., and I've never considered the action too high on my APX. Pretty good right out of the box with the default Urea nut and ABS saddle once neck relief is adjusted. EJ15s from DÁddario (.010s) is about as light as I'd want to go without completely killing acoustic tone or feel. BTW the guitar featured in this he vid is an APX500 of some suffix sub revision probably a III, not an APX600. The two have different profile necks, scale lengths (string tension) and string spacing among a few other differences (bracing). The APX600 also has a System 65 pre-amp with equalizer and AMF to shift mid boost centre point between 80hHz to 10KHz when amplified. Plays great.
Thanks for your response, though it's not clear to me whether you disapprove of what I did with the guitar in the video. I take your point about the loss of tone with the lighter strings but it was more important to the player at his current stage of learning that he be able to learn the fingering and to be able to successfully fret notes than he should get good tone (and volume of course).
As for the model number, I'm not able to check the label again as it's a customer's guitar and I don't have access to it, so can't say for sure. maybe I made a mistake, maybe whoever put the labels on in the factory made a mistake, maybe they changed the model designations at some stage. You obviously know a lot about Yamaha acoustic guitars so if I ever see that guitar again I will be checking it carefully!
@@kavanaghgtr1741 No criticism intended. Was just outlining my thoughts on the APX600 as someone else with an APX600 chimed in in the comments echoing your comment about high action.
The final version APX500 BTW was the suffix III. It was legend. It was superseded by the APX600 last quarter 2017. The scale length on the APX600 is marginally shorter scale -25" vs 25.6" of the APX500III, for lower string tension. String spacing is narrower too on the 600 at just 10mm, very friendly to smaller hands although I'm half and half on that. I think I prefer the wider string spacing on the APX500III but by the same token don't find the 10mm an encumbrance either. My other acoustics are 11mm.
Comprehend entirely why you were fitting such light gauge strings and ensuring the action student friendly.
I do all my own setups, mods & luthiering on all my guitars so appreciate your vids helping out someone to whom that's beyond their 'ken.
Fitted a set of Crosby bone bridge pins to mine for fuller sound profiles across the frequency range. Still loving it after nearly 6 years. IDK why snobs refer to this as a beginners' guitar. Yamaha's 'get people into the brand' loss leader MO killer price point I expect. A lot of guitar for the money and the Spruce laminate top and Eastern Mahogany (Nato) sides sound most pleasing to my ear. I like loads of treble.
Sound of your video is in MONo
Sorry about that, Mark. I do hope it didn't spoil the video for you.
Why the helll all yammies comes high action
I enjoy your videos. You shouldn't be using Mr Sheen on a guitar though.
You need to be paid extra just for cleaning and polishing the guitars.
Thanks, occasionally I've wondered about that, but I suspect the owner would just say that he didn't mind it as it was!
Anyone wishing to work and play with their guitars need to tell their techs not to cut off the ends of the stings right at the peg head. that instantly transforms these strings into once on only, then through away strings. Never could understand such a wastefull way of setting up one's guitar.
Our tech did that on the video knowing that he was going to remove three of them later to remove the saddle. Are you suggesting he binned those three and used three new ones?
Good work. Just a little difficult to understand your speech at times.