Trad Climbing Fantasy Crack with nothing but passive pro!
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- As challenged by the (former) RockandSharks, a very classic NRG trad line done entirely with Passive Pro.
It was a pain in the butt. I'll never do it again ;)
But thank you for the challenge! Lax-Sharks, formally Rock & Sharks, contain's many of THE original NRG climbing videos. You can check out his channel here: / @lax-sharks
The original video : • Fantasy Crack 5.8 - Ne...
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Just watching it again.... at @ 8:50 you say "I don't think I have anything to protect this last part".... and then at 8:54 are staring at perfect nut placement slots. Next route gets no hexes, nuts only!... the new challenge has been issued!
Cracks for feet? Hexes for pro? No cams? You're a changed man. 🦄
the cams are too expensive
@@alguienhastaloshuevos4146if the life-saving gear is too expensive, maybe you shouldn’t climb that route.
Back in. the day, I climbed everything with a rack of nuts, hexes, and tricams.
While the hexes have been mostly relegated for mixed (ice/rock) climbing, I routinely head up without a cam on the rack.
My cams are mostly reserved for Indian Creek where they're pretty much required, but nearly everywhere else, it's all passive pro.
throw in a skyhook or two and you're ready to go climbing in the UK
dont forget the blu tac
@@ivancairns and the crucial tea towels. You know, for drying the holds.
“Using only passive pro” proceeds to set first hex actively xD
Well done my man, it’s a different feeling isn’t it! Been looking forward to seeing this video, gotta think of a new challenge for ya! If I could give it more thumbs ups I would!
That looks like a climb that you can actually enjoy, maybe more extension and nuts placements would be great for demonstration.
Ahh, what a great video to wake up to. Especially right before I go climbing
Nice videos!
I would use some slings too. Throw them over some edges for good pro.
Not only in this video i saw you passing some good edges not useing them.
I climb a lot in the Elbsandstone and the alps, ist pretty common over here.
We even have spezial slings with rough webbing acting like a velcro to prevent them falling of.
But also normal slings useually stay in place.
(Sorry for my Bad english)
The granite in TX is rough and flaring that I never leave home without my DMM offsets and cowbells. Nothing more comforting than feeling that stone slot in and be rock solid, specially for a 200# climber lol. The pain of cleaning up afterwards without takes can be mind numbing though.
They also add to the artistry of protection and interpreting a route. Keel it up bud! Always enjoy the additions.
Cool video! Can you make a video where you focus on using tricams? I did some tests with them in vertical and horizontal cracks and I'm amazed how versatile and strong they are.
In the Gunks we use em in horizontal cracks. Nuts in the verticals. Only use em in verticals if you’ve run out of nuts.
Nuts and pidgeon twatters are a definate skill, no one should just rely on one set of protection.
Such a beautiful crag with these high and scarce trees!
Nicely done! Looks like a fun crack!
Satisfaction guaranteed!
In my last climbs in the dolomites i used almost only passive pros, i think if you use them the way they should be used they are much safer then active pros.
Hex placement looked okay but you you do know you can place those sideways right?
those hexes make an eerie noise like I'm watching some horror movie
Love the sound of cow bells at the crag
this looks fun
Did this rt probably 25 years ago, used cams though. 😁 Good job
Freaking baller... Justbombergear would be so proud ;p
Ever need a belay bitch in the NE hit me up :). Been trying to transition from sport/Bouldering to trad cracks.
Didn't climb with cams on regular basis when I live Snowndia(I was too poor) only when I moved to Yorkshire on Yorkshire grit I felt the need.
Nice video! Would have liked if you had included the cleaning as well. Maybe next time?
sometimes POV climbing kinda sucks- head whipping around too much. nice climb though!
Awesome!
My 2 cents. Of course;) Those gloves look like an impediment in many of these crack climbs. You’d have been able to palm lock a good portion of this slot for example without the gloves. Use tape or go naked. And maybe its just me, but I go thumbs down only when I’m alongside the crack or headed that way, otherwise you’re torquing and limiting range of motion for no reason.
Also: You’d enjoy owning a few camp tricams. Cheap, light and so functional in pockets and horizontals.
tri cams can do it all
I guess climbers do it against a wall.
Why is each piece separately coupled with a quick draw already?
Why even use quick draws? Especially for for hexes that want to rotate upwards
Is this just gear placements that were picked out and chosen on TR beforehand?
lame
Nice, but I think we could do without the constant sniffing! :0
that's just the blow drainage