Incredibly helpful video Brenden and Team CMC (on the "internets")! Used it to trouble shoot my 71 SL350 today. Helped me quickly isolate and fix the issue. Cranked on the third kick after sitting for over 40 years. Please keep these videos coming; they are more helpful than you know!
I have 2 left hands and I honestly have zero idea what I'm doing with my 1981 Honda CB750 F and I think this made sense. I'm gonna give it a few tries in the morning and running through this video a couple more times. Thanks
Excellent! I’m working on a 1973 CL 350 that was in storage for 30 years. Lots of gremlins from sitting so long, but thanks to your video, some sandpaper on the points quickly resolved the no spark problems.
That cleared up some things for me. My 360T may have a poor condenser as it is 'arching' for that right cylinder. I will replace the condenser. Stator and coils are new updated versions. Thanks.
Thanks a ton! This was a perfect breakdown to help straighten out the chaos of troubleshooting! very well done! Can't wait to get cylinder 3 and 4 fixed on my 76' CB750 project
Thank you sir for this simple and easy to follow explanation, I am in the process of my first restoration project and found this most helpful information .
Hi Brenden .! I been working on a real bad problem for the last 2 weeks solid . It is a 1975 CB360 , I just cant figure something out . I have replaced coils twice . The guy I bought the bike from had bought a lot of things from you including new coils . Those coils made some improvement for a little while from the Honda coils he said . Then he told me that the bike just would not start or vary hard to start and and if started runs vary ruff . Like a fool I bought the bike because it was really clean and I owned one back in 1979 . Great bike but not my first bike . Back to this bike . Well I check voltage at batt and it charge and hold charge at 13.35 volts . The engine run and off switch failed . Some jack weed messed with or I should say jerry rig it and failed . I replaced that . Hoping that would repair the voltage problem . It did not . So the problem I believe that I am only getting 11.43 volts on the black wire with the white stripe at the coils . Seems strange to me . Because I am getting or think I am getting well above 13 volt out of the stator at idle . Can you advise me where to turn or where to check in order ? Thanks Jeff
Thanks for the awesome video. My right cylinder has no spark, I took off the points cover the right point was sparking like in the video. I swapped the wires and had no change. What should I look at next?
One thing that I do is, when checking the battery I use a multi-meter the confirm that I have 12v and connect the negative lead to the frame this way I make sure that I have a good ground connection. I also rev the bike to see if my charging system/generator is working. Voltage go up around 14vdc.
Great Video. Learning a ton of info from you guys. So.. I swapped my condenser with new ones from you, I still couldn't get my bike to rev at 5K. Any Idea what to look for?
I have a 1982 CM450A. The bike will kickstart and run and drive great, with the key turned to on and switched to run. But none of the lights or push button ignition works. Basically none of the electronic elements of the bike works but it runs and drives when you kickstart it. Any idea what the could be? All of the fuses and battery are good.
Thanks for another great video. Your videos and parts store have been very helpful on the 71 cl350 I am restoring. Could you do a video some time on how to check if your stator is good? I'm having issues with my battery dying after a while of riding. I know my stator is putting out power, and it is running both coils constantly, but I don't know how to tell if it's putting out as much power as it should be.
Hello. SOHC CB750K8 here. Could #4 cylinder cap reading 5.8kOhms vs #’s 1-3 all at 4.7 be the reason for intermittent loss of power? Secondary lead wires are all at around 15k and generating spark. Thank you.
Just discovered your channel, great info! What about when you start bike and only one cylinder is running so I pulled plug wire on cylinder not running and barely let the plug wire hang on the spark plug and then the cylinder runs.
Suddenly no spark. Running through this video again. Silly question; where does the engine pick up its ground? I check my coil wires to the negative post of the battery, I get 12.4 VDC... I check them to the engine, I get 0VDC!
So I’m assuming when u ck the coil pick up wires the electronic ignition has to be on dead top center for the light to glow on 1and 2 (yellow) wire and dead top center for 3and4 (blue and yellow wire). Correct?
I get power to my ignition switch but when I turn it on its not working. If I move some of yhr wired around it it flickers dimly but does not power on. Any ideas?
my test light turns on with the alligator clip on the positive and the probe on the negative, but not the way you showed. why is that? i’m also deducing down to a bad spark plug coil but wanted to figure out that first and most basic test. smh
thanks for doing this! Question.... is this video showing a step by step process? I can pull the spark plug out, like you do at 5:27 , and it still runs, so is that straight coil issue and I dont have to check the other parts? Or should I start from the beginning. 1973 Cl350. Thanks!
I gave up on my 72 cb350 because I couldn't get quality coils. Repair genius tried to convince me that single lead new coils would work but they would immediately blow out.
I just replaced the points on my 1975 mt250 and have been trying to use a method with a micrometer to set the timing. Even when I can see that the points are visibly open, I am still getting the same ohm reading as when they were closed. In a video I saw using this method on a 76 MR250 they showed the ohms dropping slightly as the points begin to open. My bike has spark but is nearly impossible to start and runs super rough when I can get it going. Any advice?
On my 1975 Honda CB 200t, I have replaced the battery then installed your regulator/rectifier combo. I have no lights or horn what so ever. The electric starter is functional however. Doesn't seem to be getting spark either. Where should I start my diagnostics?
We are currently working on an updated add-on video for the 175/200 family of bikes when replacing the reg/rec. The stock rectifier actually doubled as the harness ground so when you upgrade to the modern reg/rec you need to re-ground the harness somewhere on the bike. This is as simple as making a short length of green wire that has a bullet on one side and a ring terminal on the other. Bolt the ring terminal anywhere on the frame and connect the green bullet into a green connection on the wiring harness. I'm guessing this will solve a lot of your issues if not all of them. A good place to do this is the green connection where the old regulator used to plug into. The wire can easily reach one of the battery box bolts to ground it.
I bought a set of coils from you guys. I think one is bad because my dynamic timing light won't strobe on that coil when the RPMs get above 2k or so. It's fine on the right coil....No condenser as I'm on electronic ign. It did the same thing on point though. Bad coil?
reach out to our support line on the website, they can troubleshoot you a little more than I can on youtube and see whats going on for you and how we can help.
Hey man! I have 1972 cb750 and I’m have brake return issue. The brake pads are so tight to the rotor the wheel will not move. Do you know what it could be? I already replaced all the brake hoses ,pads and master cylinder.
Hello, did you resolve this issue? I am currently experiencing the same thing. I cleaned ground at the coil and two grounds in the headlight, but still nothing.
We are working on parts for the 175's currently. Depending on what you need we may already have the parts in stock. Btw check the year on your bike again as '79 was not a production year for the 175's.
i'm hoping someone can help me out, when i check for power at the points, i've got nothing on the left side. testing the dual yellow wire socket, i get nothing unless i unplug the left side point wire, then i get 12-13V. Keep in mind this is a brand new coil, i'm pointing to the condenser now but not sure. any help would be greatly appreciated
The contact point must be open for a reading to be present. Rotate the engine till it is open and test. If it is an issue still the wire connecting to the points may be incorrectly installed.
F* it. i should just buy one of every part you sell at this point. I bought a cb360t not really knowing what to look for. i've already spent more on parts than i took out for the loan to buy the bike! never should have bought this particular one, but at least i'm learning a lot??? i suppose that makes it a worthwhile endeavor. Still waiting on a lot more parts from common motors. i wish there was an option to expedite shipping, but i looks like it'll be another 4 day wait for parts.
basically, i've owned this bike a few weeks now and have been fixing lots of stuff here and there in that time. just discovered today that this whole time it's only been running on One cylinder. ugh. seems the ignition coil is the culprit. just bought 2 of them (since they look original and the other one probably won't last long anyway), and the condenser, and boots, and new plugs, cause what the F?! why not just replace it all at this point? this bike is gonna be the death of me! or at least my credit score lol.
i'm officially Beyond the DIY / fix-it-at-home repairs now. i'm just buying one of everything mentioned in this video, replacing them all, crossing my fingers and hoping for the best
Incredibly helpful video Brenden and Team CMC (on the "internets")! Used it to trouble shoot my 71 SL350 today. Helped me quickly isolate and fix the issue. Cranked on the third kick after sitting for over 40 years. Please keep these videos coming; they are more helpful than you know!
I have 2 left hands and I honestly have zero idea what I'm doing with my 1981 Honda CB750 F and I think this made sense. I'm gonna give it a few tries in the morning and running through this video a couple more times. Thanks
Phenomenal amount of quality info - perhaps a bit quick for dunces like me, but I can always watch it again, and again ….! Thanks
Excellent! I’m working on a 1973 CL 350 that was in storage for 30 years. Lots of gremlins from sitting so long, but thanks to your video, some sandpaper on the points quickly resolved the no spark problems.
That cleared up some things for me. My 360T may have a poor condenser as it is 'arching' for that right cylinder. I will replace the condenser. Stator and coils are new updated versions. Thanks.
Thanks a ton! This was a perfect breakdown to help straighten out the chaos of troubleshooting! very well done! Can't wait to get cylinder 3 and 4 fixed on my 76' CB750 project
Thank you sir for this simple and easy to follow explanation, I am in the process of my first restoration project and found this most helpful information .
Thanks once again for taking the time to share this with us, good one guys!
Hi Brenden .! I been working on a real bad problem for the last 2 weeks solid . It is a 1975 CB360 , I just cant figure something out . I have replaced coils twice . The guy I bought the bike from had bought a lot of things from you including new coils . Those coils made some improvement for a little while from the Honda coils he said . Then he told me that the bike just would not start or vary hard to start and and if started runs vary ruff . Like a fool I bought the bike because it was really clean and I owned one back in 1979 . Great bike but not my first bike . Back to this bike . Well I check voltage at batt and it charge and hold charge at 13.35 volts . The engine run and off switch failed . Some jack weed messed with or I should say jerry rig it and failed . I replaced that . Hoping that would repair the voltage problem . It did not . So the problem I believe that I am only getting 11.43 volts on the black wire with the white stripe at the coils . Seems strange to me . Because I am getting or think I am getting well above 13 volt out of the stator at idle . Can you advise me where to turn or where to check in order ? Thanks Jeff
You ever figure this out?
I'm so happy!!! you've given me the confidence to do this ignition service myself. Thanks for saving me a lot of money really Brenden.
pro tip : you can watch series on flixzone. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.
excellent video. I've been having issues with my bike running poorly for awhile now, even after swapping in new points and a condenser.
Thanks Brendan--another super helpful video!
Very thorough in under 7 minutes
Very good! I just made a video a few days ago, about having a bad ground to the coil bracket, so many variables with old bikes
Bad grounds are something that many overlook
Very helpful. Quick, concise and to the point. Thank you.
Thanks for the awesome video. My right cylinder has no spark, I took off the points cover the right point was sparking like in the video. I swapped the wires and had no change. What should I look at next?
Excellent. You have explained the trouble shooting better than anyone! Do you have a video on adjusting the points?
One thing that I do is, when checking the battery I use a multi-meter the confirm that I have 12v and connect the negative lead to the frame this way I make sure that I have a good ground connection. I also rev the bike to see if my charging system/generator is working. Voltage go up around 14vdc.
Great recommendation. However just a note on the the CB175 / CB350 / CB360 / CB450 typical charging voltage is between 12.5 to 13.2 volts.
Yes a healthy battery is key to a good running vintage Honda. The typical charging voltage you will see on the twins is about 12.5 to 13.2 volts.
Excellent video. I have some things to check tomorrow
Great Video. Learning a ton of info from you guys. So.. I swapped my condenser with new ones from you, I still couldn't get my bike to rev at 5K. Any Idea what to look for?
Thank you! So systematic and clear. You rock
What if mine is hard to start but when it does fires on both cylinders till it warms up about 15 min then one cylinder spits an sputters
Check to see if one of the wires is shorting to the frame
I have a 1982 CM450A. The bike will kickstart and run and drive great, with the key turned to on and switched to run. But none of the lights or push button ignition works. Basically none of the electronic elements of the bike works but it runs and drives when you kickstart it. Any idea what the could be? All of the fuses and battery are good.
Never seen a video on this method before. thanks.
Thanks for another great video. Your videos and parts store have been very helpful on the 71 cl350 I am restoring. Could you do a video some time on how to check if your stator is good? I'm having issues with my battery dying after a while of riding. I know my stator is putting out power, and it is running both coils constantly, but I don't know how to tell if it's putting out as much power as it should be.
I really appreciate you guys! Great video. Great service. Thanks man!
Hello. SOHC CB750K8 here. Could #4 cylinder cap reading 5.8kOhms vs #’s 1-3 all at 4.7 be the reason for intermittent loss of power? Secondary lead wires are all at around 15k and generating spark. Thank you.
I have a 1974 Honda Cb 200 & the electric starter won’t turn over. I hear it clicking though. Any suggestions?
Cleaned points but Light is staying on after manually opening points. Any idea on what’s going on? Any tips?
Just discovered your channel, great info! What about when you start bike and only one cylinder is running so I pulled plug wire on cylinder not running and barely let the plug wire hang on the spark plug and then the cylinder runs.
hi in the last test if you remove the cap and the bike dies what does that mean
What if you don’t get power ? no lights etc, when turning on the key?
Suddenly no spark. Running through this video again. Silly question; where does the engine pick up its ground? I check my coil wires to the negative post of the battery, I get 12.4 VDC... I check them to the engine, I get 0VDC!
Which continuity test light should I buy???
Having issue with s charging system got your rectifier/regulator combo so trying to determine if charging system working on my 71 cl450k4
So I’m assuming when u ck the coil pick up wires the electronic ignition has to be on dead top center for the light to glow on 1and 2 (yellow) wire and dead top center for 3and4 (blue and yellow wire). Correct?
Awesome vid! Thx. Will try this to get my CB250 going!
glad to help!
I get power to my ignition switch but when I turn it on its not working. If I move some of yhr wired around it it flickers dimly but does not power on. Any ideas?
Thanks so much for this saved me time and money.
As with almost all of cmc’s videos this is a great video. however i would have reversed steps 1 and 2.
my test light turns on with the alligator clip on the positive and the probe on the negative, but not the way you showed. why is that? i’m also deducing down to a bad spark plug coil but wanted to figure out that first and most basic test. smh
thanks for doing this! Question.... is this video showing a step by step process? I can pull the spark plug out, like you do at 5:27 , and it still runs, so is that straight coil issue and I dont have to check the other parts? Or should I start from the beginning. 1973 Cl350. Thanks!
I gave up on my 72 cb350 because I couldn't get quality coils. Repair genius tried to convince me that single lead new coils would work but they would immediately blow out.
I have a 72 cl 175 and I don't have any spark on the timing points does anyone know what is up with it?
I just replaced the points on my 1975 mt250 and have been trying to use a method with a micrometer to set the timing. Even when I can see that the points are visibly open, I am still getting the same ohm reading as when they were closed. In a video I saw using this method on a 76 MR250 they showed the ohms dropping slightly as the points begin to open. My bike has spark but is nearly impossible to start and runs super rough when I can get it going. Any advice?
On my 1975 Honda CB 200t, I have replaced the battery then installed your regulator/rectifier combo. I have no lights or horn what so ever. The electric starter is functional however. Doesn't seem to be getting spark either. Where should I start my diagnostics?
We are currently working on an updated add-on video for the 175/200 family of bikes when replacing the reg/rec. The stock rectifier actually doubled as the harness ground so when you upgrade to the modern reg/rec you need to re-ground the harness somewhere on the bike. This is as simple as making a short length of green wire that has a bullet on one side and a ring terminal on the other. Bolt the ring terminal anywhere on the frame and connect the green bullet into a green connection on the wiring harness. I'm guessing this will solve a lot of your issues if not all of them. A good place to do this is the green connection where the old regulator used to plug into. The wire can easily reach one of the battery box bolts to ground it.
I bought a set of coils from you guys. I think one is bad because my dynamic timing light won't strobe on that coil when the RPMs get above 2k or so. It's fine on the right coil....No condenser as I'm on electronic ign. It did the same thing on point though. Bad coil?
reach out to our support line on the website, they can troubleshoot you a little more than I can on youtube and see whats going on for you and how we can help.
So glad i found your videos!🤘
Nice Looking Scrambler There !
As Always Great Video Very Helpful.
finally. a useful video on ignition issues. sub'd
Wait is the muffler
If there was a double like button, I'll press it 👍👍
do you guys have the ignition switch holder for a CB500k2?
Hey man! I have 1972 cb750 and I’m have brake return issue. The brake pads are so tight to the rotor the wheel will not move. Do you know what it could be? I already replaced all the brake hoses ,pads and master cylinder.
I'd clean and lubricate the caliper swing are. See our brake rebuild videos for more information.
I needed this video thank you.
What a bad condenser cause a no spark issue????
Hi, any idea why and how my timing light on the pickup coil can burn constantly? eventhough the ponts gap has enough space.
Email our support with what you've done to troubleshoot and we can help you out a bit more there!
Very nice and informative video. 🙏
So what do you do if your battery works but the power is not reaching the points and headlight, horn and everything else doesnt turn on?
Sounds like fuse
Hello, did you resolve this issue? I am currently experiencing the same thing. I cleaned ground at the coil and two grounds in the headlight, but still nothing.
Will that load test work on a four cylinder as well ?
Yes!
Mine has spark and power to all lights and still wont start
Can coils be fine at idle and fail at higher rpms?
What rpm range are you failing at?
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
great video very infprmative an easy tp understand
I have a 1979 CL175 and parts are hard to come by where do you recommend i get my parts from? Id like to replace all the electrical system components.
We are working on parts for the 175's currently. Depending on what you need we may already have the parts in stock. Btw check the year on your bike again as '79 was not a production year for the 175's.
Nice tutorial, thanks. 💯
Damn Fine Video My Friend!
Very good video
Gr8 tips
I love that bike.
Awesome info
i'm hoping someone can help me out, when i check for power at the points, i've got nothing on the left side. testing the dual yellow wire socket, i get nothing unless i unplug the left side point wire, then i get 12-13V. Keep in mind this is a brand new coil, i'm pointing to the condenser now but not sure. any help would be greatly appreciated
The contact point must be open for a reading to be present. Rotate the engine till it is open and test. If it is an issue still the wire connecting to the points may be incorrectly installed.
Awesome!!
You should really be covering Spark gap, Dwell and timing chain stretch which can also cause ignition problems. Speaking from experience here.
Please make a you tube video to help out. #visuallearners
We, cover all that in other videos on our channel.
Cool bike
Great vid info ..thanks
Thanks for the vid!
I would have thought you'd get a shock at 5:45.
Great Video
F* it. i should just buy one of every part you sell at this point. I bought a cb360t not really knowing what to look for. i've already spent more on parts than i took out for the loan to buy the bike! never should have bought this particular one, but at least i'm learning a lot??? i suppose that makes it a worthwhile endeavor. Still waiting on a lot more parts from common motors. i wish there was an option to expedite shipping, but i looks like it'll be another 4 day wait for parts.
basically, i've owned this bike a few weeks now and have been fixing lots of stuff here and there in that time. just discovered today that this whole time it's only been running on One cylinder. ugh. seems the ignition coil is the culprit. just bought 2 of them (since they look original and the other one probably won't last long anyway), and the condenser, and boots, and new plugs, cause what the F?! why not just replace it all at this point? this bike is gonna be the death of me! or at least my credit score lol.
i'm officially Beyond the DIY / fix-it-at-home repairs now. i'm just buying one of everything mentioned in this video, replacing them all, crossing my fingers and hoping for the best
Good stuff. Didn't help me with my issue though :/
Great videos you give us but please don`t add the backround music next time. :)
Wish you made this video for the cb550 🫠