Brilliant video, no DelBollocks, straight and simple proper engineering advice.... Btw, thanks for the tip on the clean of carb parts, worked a treat!!!
Great video Andy and the pace of the rebuild seems just right for good viewing thanks for posting. When i did my forks refurbs as I didn't have the right tool and I wasn't buying one just for two forrks, I uses a length of I think 1" square steel tubing to hold the dampener inside the tube during reassembly whilst retightening the bottom locking nut .
Hey Andy, this is Marcel in Yuma, Arizona. I've an '81 XS1100H , with the fairing, bags, and rack and I love the bike, after watching so MANY(ALL), of your xs11 vids, I bought me a Barnett Clutch and it's going to be installed very soon, after my mech is finished fixing my '75 400F carbs. Great to see your vids man! Thanks Marcel
We have the same fork Andy. Suzuki released 2 sort of forks for the GS1000, one without bleednipple and one with, easy as that, at least the workshop manual says that. A lot of ppl are scared of dismantling those front forks but as your video shows, some clean area to work in and proper tools, bobs your uncle! Had to weld that innertube-tool. A long thin pipe with a 19mm bolt on both ends, one for the socket end and the other for the double hex fitting. Bill´s front fork will see to live another day for many years to come, fresh seals and oil will do it! Keep it up buddy!
Hello Mr. Andy, err G'day. Thanks for the video today. I watched the 1st 10 min, and I've learned a thing or two already. I'll tryn watch the rest later, but my connection isn't up to it at the moment. Just can't sit here watching the spinny thing. You seem to do good work. If Matt likes ya, you must be doing something right. That bugger hates everybody. Anyway, thanks, and hope ya have a great day.
has delboy previously changed those bearings. BTW andy , if you drill a hole in a metal bar ( same size as the tap size, ie 6mm hole for 6mm tap ) and clamp that over your hole to be tapped , it helps to keep the tap straight when starting the tapping
Used to own a z1000j, changing fork oil seals were a regular thing on one of those, every 2/3 years, bit like the clutch slave cilinder seals on an xjr, its one of those things, i have a long threaded bar with a 27mm nut welded on one end and 24mm on the other for the damper rod, depending on what bike most are 27mm. had to do a friends trx 850 recently, messy job, always was.
Yeah, I had a little shudder over that one, normally crack em before undoing the yoke clamps. I was expecting a cartridge to come out, must be just before they started making them.
Cracking them before removal is definitely the way to go, and I usually do. I can't understand for the life of me why I didn't this time, just not thinking I guess.
Andy not sure about G BUT my gs 1000 e had air shocks back and front. My 78 skunk does not, my Š Did not they all had just a hex big nut on top with no pre-loaded, never seen that tensioners on a chain drive. Different countries were released differently
So Andy are you going to put the forks back together without painting the lower tri-tree? I ask that without knowing your intentions for the bike, is it a refurb, or a rescue with patina?
It’s better than using nothing but it over lubricates the cutting surface, reducing the taps efficiency. Cutting compounds are designed to prevent binding, trap swarf and maintain the cutting action.
Stephen Williams If by tight coils you mean the progressive springs then I would say no because the weaker side of the spring will always compress before reaching the compression ratio that will start the compression of the stronger side of the spring.... independently of its orientation. Did I get it right Andy?
Stephen Williams Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't, just replace them the way you found them. Or actually, replace them the way your manufacturer says, because its possible del, or someone who watches his videos 'fixed it'. Also, check your exhaust isn't filled with bunched up mig wire, and that the bike isn't held together with adhesive.
I don’t think so. There is some school of thought around unsprung weight and placing the most mass, i.e. the closer wound section, at the top. I’ll check the manual and do whatever Suzuki did.
Mate! you didn't need the DTI to see that was bent!.... personally, I would have straightened that out. (To within at least 0.1MM or better). Then you know you're not going to have any binding problems or sticky movement with the forks when they're back on the bike.
Did you see the video of Del butcher the hammered dogshit triple clamp, giving it large ones saying it’s the only way to do it without specialty tooling, driving a screwdriver then a chisel between the cast alloy bottom yoke! Awful! Absolutely rooted the whole show.
Andy, Andy, Andy - you're wasting your time dude. You need to belt the shit out of it with a selections of chisels. Afterwards you can easily file away your mistakes and all is good! On an unrelated note - we both seem to have found ourselves blessed! You should have told me that No more Nails was sponsoring you to! We're fucking sponsor buddies now! Onwards and upwards!
Brilliant video, no DelBollocks, straight and simple proper engineering advice....
Btw, thanks for the tip on the clean of carb parts, worked a treat!!!
You are on my top 3 channels in UA-cam. And none takes first position for longer
than a video.
And comments like that will have you in the top three viewers list, lol. Thanks mate.
You could of changed the wood screw with no more nails mate. Works for me on my bus lol
Great video Andy and the pace of the rebuild seems just right for good viewing thanks for posting. When i did my forks refurbs as I didn't have the right tool and I wasn't buying one just for two forrks, I uses a length of I think 1" square steel tubing to hold the dampener inside the tube during reassembly whilst retightening the bottom locking nut .
Already made a tool thank's mate.
Hey Andy, this is Marcel in Yuma, Arizona. I've an '81 XS1100H , with the fairing, bags, and rack and I love the bike, after watching so MANY(ALL), of your xs11 vids, I bought me a Barnett Clutch and it's going to be installed very soon, after my mech is finished fixing my '75 400F carbs. Great to see your vids man! Thanks Marcel
We have the same fork Andy. Suzuki released 2 sort of forks for the GS1000, one without bleednipple and one with, easy as that, at least the workshop manual says that. A lot of ppl are scared of dismantling those front forks but as your video shows, some clean area to work in and proper tools, bobs your uncle! Had to weld that innertube-tool. A long thin pipe with a 19mm bolt on both ends, one for the socket end and the other for the double hex fitting. Bill´s front fork will see to live another day for many years to come, fresh seals and oil will do it! Keep it up buddy!
Already made a tool thanks mate, M12 bolt one end (19mm A/F) and tee handle at the other. Thanks for all of your input today Nicklas
Hello Mr. Andy, err G'day. Thanks for the video today. I watched the 1st 10 min, and I've learned a thing or two already. I'll tryn watch the rest later, but my connection isn't up to it at the moment. Just can't sit here watching the spinny thing. You seem to do good work. If Matt likes ya, you must be doing something right. That bugger hates everybody. Anyway, thanks, and hope ya have a great day.
You can always go to settings (the gear wheel at the bottom of the screen) and change the quality to a lower setting.
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions
Not when ur already at 144... Thanks for the suggestion tho.
Great video and not a tube of no nails in sight
has delboy previously changed those bearings. BTW andy , if you drill a hole in a metal bar ( same size as the tap size, ie 6mm hole for 6mm tap ) and clamp that over your hole to be tapped , it helps to keep the tap straight when starting the tapping
Good catch !!!!
nice to see a video on replacement fork seals, cheers Andy
Thanks mate, actual seal replacement, and more, coming soon
Used to own a z1000j, changing fork oil seals were a regular thing on one of those, every 2/3 years, bit like the clutch slave cilinder seals on an xjr, its one of those things,
i have a long threaded bar with a 27mm nut welded on one end and 24mm on the other for the damper rod, depending on what bike most are 27mm.
had to do a friends trx 850 recently, messy job, always was.
Great stuff, thanks Andy!
Great stuff Andy as always.
Sound work Andy.
Gives me the fear watching someone hold the stanchions in a vice like that you could cause yourself a whole world of pain.
Yeah, I had a little shudder over that one, normally crack em before undoing the yoke clamps. I was expecting a cartridge to come out, must be just before they started making them.
Cracking them before removal is definitely the way to go, and I usually do. I can't understand for the life of me why I didn't this time, just not thinking I guess.
Don't stress on it Andy, it's a dementia thing, everyone has it these days it's just being normal lol
Andy not sure about G BUT my gs 1000 e had air shocks back and front. My 78 skunk does not, my Š Did not they all had just a hex big nut on top with no pre-loaded, never seen that tensioners on a chain drive.
Different countries were released differently
Great content really like your videos andy
My fork tubes have valve stems for air assist I guess with the oil.
mike maifeld
I had me a couple of those old Hondas, once upon a time. I never had one that stayed aired up more than a day or 2.
Yes the air places the oil under pressure which reduces cavitation and foaming.
ForkingBrilliant
video
I was wondering what the fork you were going to do to get those bearings off the forking head stock.
Was that a motorcycle grade wood screw ?
Motorcycle FRAME grade wood screw
Yeah the bloke who put it in obviously didn't have the No More Screws glue 😂
Cody Taylor
I don't know why people seem to have a problem with nails anyway. I nailed my forks on, and I've never had a problem with them.
So Andy are you going to put the forks back together without painting the lower tri-tree? I ask that without knowing your intentions for the bike, is it a refurb, or a rescue with patina?
in regards to tap threading, is there anything wrong with using engine oil?.15w . if so why
It’s better than using nothing but it over lubricates the cutting surface, reducing the taps efficiency. Cutting compounds are designed to prevent binding, trap swarf and maintain the cutting action.
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions Cheers. I Will add another smoo to the shopping list
Does it really matter what way up the tight coils go?
Stephen Williams
If by tight coils you mean the progressive springs then I would say no because the weaker side of the spring will always compress before reaching the compression ratio that will start the compression of the stronger side of the spring.... independently of its orientation. Did I get it right Andy?
Stephen Williams
Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't, just replace them the way you found them.
Or actually, replace them the way your manufacturer says, because its possible del, or someone who watches his videos 'fixed it'.
Also, check your exhaust isn't filled with bunched up mig wire, and that the bike isn't held together with adhesive.
knuckles zedawg
Yes, it does
I don’t think so. There is some school of thought around unsprung weight and placing the most mass, i.e. the closer wound section, at the top. I’ll check the manual and do whatever Suzuki did.
Mate! you didn't need the DTI to see that was bent!.... personally, I would have straightened that out. (To within at least 0.1MM or better). Then you know you're not going to have any binding problems or sticky movement with the forks when they're back on the bike.
Already decided to try and tweek it in the press mate, thanks as always.
@@ANDY5 by the way Andy, half a millimeter is 20 thou, NOT 12.5 thou as you stated.
Andy has more tools they a formula one team
Does that include the tool behind the wheel?
Was it sponsored by No Nails lol
Did you see the video of Del butcher the hammered dogshit triple clamp, giving it large ones saying it’s the only way to do it without specialty tooling, driving a screwdriver then a chisel between the cast alloy bottom yoke! Awful! Absolutely rooted the whole show.
Andy, Andy, Andy - you're wasting your time dude. You need to belt the shit out of it with a selections of chisels. Afterwards you can easily file away your mistakes and all is good! On an unrelated note - we both seem to have found ourselves blessed! You should have told me that No more Nails was sponsoring you to! We're fucking sponsor buddies now! Onwards and upwards!
You’re a flog mate, fair dinkum 😂
I’ve got more coming, watch out for a tool review in the next day or so.
Great video as always……but 0.5mm is about 0.020” not 0.0125"…..so 0.7mm would be about 0.028"
OMG you’re right, 1mm is close to 40 thou, I’m loosing the plot ffs
Haa haa....comes to us all with age mate ;-)
Lacy Kyle
Lol, ain't none of us as young as we used to be.