Great modification. Thanks for your time. As a tech, I never plan on running any type of equipment at 100 percent. Riden made a very nice buck package. Yet i think they should provide a better power supply. Every search i did tells me that the nvvv s800 was modeled after another well known switching power supply company. As you found out the engineering behind that nvvv unit was not up to proper specs. In the end of all this we now have an option to modify, or purchase a different brand of supply. I just recently purchased the RD6018. After one look at the power supply that was offered in the kit I said no thanks and ordered everything except the supply. I enjoyed your videos BTW.
Only three years after you posted the video... Thank you. I found this four part series very helpful and informative. I built your fan mod from part four and it works well however there are a couple of problems with it. The zener diode on the schematic is drawn backwards while the video shows the zeners being installed the correct way around. Theree should also be a diode fitted across the fan to pretect the transistor from back emf. As the damage by back emf.
Jerry You have made 4 fantastic videos about the Riden Kit. Most people will never require a 60 volt supply, and probably most people that buy one don't realize that fifty volts is sufficient enough that can seriously hurt or kill someone. I think the Riden RD6012 is an awesome Device. Though i would never let my teen enthusiasts have a dangerous 60 volt supply when 40 volts is sufficient for his needs. The option exist to use other well know power supply manufactures to achieve a lower cleaner voltage. you also have the advantage to stack in series or parallel 2 units of power supplies to obtain your target voltage and power.
Fixed my fan noise by adjusting r6 (2.7k) from Q2 (S8050)base to ground, it forms a resistive divider with the thermistor to give around 1.4 volts on the base. Of course they have selected a value that suits their ambient temp, my ambient here is 28-30c so by placing an 11k across R6 the fan stops/idles and kicks in as the temp rises. I also glued the thermistor to the diodes heatsink. Power supply is S-1200-65. One could also fit a 20k trimpot instead.
I just watched through all your RD60XX videos including the linear supply build, and really enjoyed all the info you've provided. ... so when are the RD6018 vids coming? ;-D
The fan that was running as a part of the case was there to pull in air to cool the power transistor heat sink. Fully enclosed, the grooves in the side force air right onto the heat sink since it was the only way in. So its possible that you caused the single transistor to fail perhaps?
Thank you guys for sharing all your knowledge. I exchanged R40 with a simple 150 Ohm 1W resistor and it works like a charm. The fan rotates from startup at low speed, when temperature raizes it goes full speed and once the temp go down, it goes back to low speed. Really nice especially for me when working by night. With fan at full speed all time it was simply unusable by night.
@@tacitovitowesterberg7674 But we don't have original fan spec. So the solution is to plug a set of temp sensors on all parts that may heat up, and monitor their state while applying a certain load to the PSU. After that, try to use ANY Noctua and check if the temperatures are the same (or lower). The main point is not to replace the fan with another one, the main point is that hot parts of this PSU keep working at correct temperatures at any time/load.
Hello Jerry. I have the same power supply (NVVV) for my Riden 6012. This supply already have your scheme. The current limiting resistor must be replaced. I soldered two 82 ohm resistors in series, instead of one 60 ohms. The fan is now running at low speed. And when the temperature rises, the fan runs at maximum speed. PS. the resistor is near the fan connector ;-)
thank you for these vids. I don't have mine yet and maybe this is more obvious once the unit is here, but I'd like to understand where you connected that mod (other than the fan connection).
you should use it in the way that we recommend, I see you remove the case and install the fan to the back of the case, this will lead to a problem: the structural change of the heat dissipation system leads to insufficient heat dissipation. After the shell of the switching power supply is removed, the wind speed flowing through the heat sink decreases, Q=Sv, S increases, the wind speed v decreases, and the insufficient heat dissipation chip is overheated and damaged.
I think you are correct that the heat sink temperatures would be lower with the PSU case back on to channel the airflow… however, is the single package dual not being overloaded (peak currents) when the PSU is run at full power? Saying it’ll only survive in low ambient temperatures with the PSU case on and with high airflow fan is saying the diodes are being driven too hard.
@@davadoff we have tested that we use full output to check the internal temperature, and the temperature is still under control, just maybe there will be fan noise
@@rdtech9153 I am very pleasantly surprised to see such active involvement of the manufacturer, I appreciate it very much :) So I would like to take this opportunity to point out some minor inconveniences that may be solved in the next versions of the firmware / software. 1) The unit in the lower right corner shows temperature, output Ah, Wh etc, but the total time since “On” is missing. This would be very useful information, especially when using the charging function. It would be nice to have such a function also in the PC software in the "Basis Info" section, surely it is possible to modify this section slightly to fit the "Total Time" display. Suggested time format HH:MM:SS (hours, minutes, seconds). 2) Exporting a graph image - currently this option is available, but the image is unfortunately very small. It would be great to be able to export to a custom resolution. 3) Data logging - this option is also available, but is not done “on the fly”, but requires an export. In case of accidental disconnection from the device, all data is lost. It would be highly useful to record data in real time or at least at specified intervals. I don't know if other users will agree with me, but these are my observations, maybe helpful. Overall very practical, useful and well designed device :)
I would be interested by doing output noise test with scope and the same test with the power supply (NVVV) but with and without all these mods (Case less, fan). I'm aware, it's quite hard now... Sorry for my english. A frenchy !
Been following with interest, Jerry! Any chance you could explore the output of the 6012 with a 'scope? I am guessing ripple and noise will be worse than the 6006. Also, is the normal output relay switched on this one or is the relay just for charge termination on the battery terminal as for the 6006?
The issue you could run into with the fan running too slow is since it looks like the thermistor is in open air there may not be enough air flow to trigger the fan into high mode causing too much heat to build and degrade the semiconductors and Caps. Maybe extend the leads and attach it to one of the heatsinks.
Now I have to open mine back up and check but im pretty sure my fan is off until hot, I bought my case kit about a year ago. Wonder if they have two different fan control boards depending on when it was produced. I'll check mine later today. Edit: Never mind I see now that its the PS doing the control. At first I thought this was the conrtol board that came with the case kit.
I think the difference is in the enclosure kit. The first kit I purchased for the RD6006 had a separate fan controller pcb in the kit and I used it to control a fan. I removed the original SM supply fan. The enclosure which came with the RD6012 did not have this board so I had to rely on the SM supply fan control and it is not very good. It runs Fast or Very Fast but never stops.
I'm planning to buy the RD6012W with a 48v 10.4A switching supply. should I go for the recommended 60v supply or will this just be fine? I'm planning to use it for electroplating among other things.
I've seen some reliability problems with RHoS (lead free) solder on some hot circuits. Would you recommend for or against resoldering some the larger, hotter high power solder joints with regular 60/40 lead solder? Thanks!
Hey Jerry, Looks like you resolved the high power bug in this RD2012W.. Have you done any low voltage / current testing with either the 06, or 12 A supplies ? Running an IC for instance at +/- 12 VDC, and say 10 to 29 mA ?
hi Jerry, Tx for sharing! I will order this supply soon. Before this supply will fail, I will add the diode. This is the diode at the output circuit ,Correct? I do like to order 2 pcs of this diode you replaced. What is the order code for this diode? Tx
In your schematic you have the zener shown as forward biased which means that the voltage at the junction of the two resistors will be held at two diode drops! Is that REALLY what you planned? Is it just a slight drawing slip or did you actually wire it that way as well? If so, why use a zener, when an ordinary diode would do?
The - and + connections are not actually 'supply' and 'ground' connections. It is effectively a current controlled output. The zener in this mode provides the hysteresis I mention. You could actually reverse the zener if you wanted a fixed speed for the fan but then this could also be achieved by simply adjusting the threshold pot on the supply and not adding any circuitry but I wanted the fan to be off until the supply was in use and not always running (even slowly) when the supply was idle. It seems a bit of an odd fan control circuit on the supply and it makes the supply very annoying without modification. The first kit I ordered had a separate fan control board and it was much better.
@@robertplante8822 yes, [edited to be less ambiguous as I'm not disagreeing with you) just like I said, in his schematic the zener diode is FORWARD biased and acts as a STANDARD diode. This CANNOT be reverse biased because it has no means to be, other than via reverse biasing the base emitter junction of the transistor to the point of reverse breakdown. I rechecked the video and you can actually make out that the ACTUAL implementation has the CATHODE (black bar) of the zener at the junction of the two resistors ... The way the schematic SHOULD be drawn. Strictly speaking the bias chain does not require the bottom resistor either since it performs no real function in this circuit. If ONLY the top resistor is used then the circuit will work perfectly just the same. The only thing the top resistor does is to limit the current through the zener and into the transistor base. It acts ONLY to create a "threshold" voltage for the transistor to start to turn on at more than its normal 0.5-0.7v i.e. to delay the onset of the fan until a certain voltage is reached. Ironically, EXACTLY the same result can be achieved by picking a MOSFET with a threshold voltage of the right value and current capacity and power rating to suit, then the zener is not even required either. This could be improved to a variable point by keeping the resistor divider chain or substituting a small linear pot in the bottom leg to provide a variable turn-on of the FET. It's important to note that the FET will operate in its linear region if the voltage at the input does not rise fast enough in which case using the zener instead of the top resistor, with a bias resistor below in series and connecting the junction to the FET gate (N-channel type) is all that's needed. As multiple, suitable N-channel power FETs are readily available for FREE from any PC motherboard (even from the 286 and 386 era) this is an ideal source for hobbyists. Specs are readily available from on-line sources like All-Datasheet etc.
Jerry, would you mind answering my question from your point of view also please? What are the pros and cons of your 4-component fan speed mod vs the dual resistor mod that's mentioned in another comment below? There's got to be some advantage in your design vs the 2 resistors in series method so please comment. Thanks!
It is entirely personal preference. There are many other options. What I wanted was for the fan to not run at all when the unit was first powered up as I tend to use equipment in the lab where everything is on a common power bus. I only wanted the fan to come on when the unit was specifically used. WIth the mod I show the fan does not run at all until the sensor heats up and then it will still run slowly even if the sensor cools down again (until power is cycled). The resistor mod just slows the fan down but it still spins at power up which is not what I wanted.
@@JerryWalker001 Gotcha. I like your results better, so if I could trouble you, would you please tell me what type/part # transistor and zener diode to get? Resistor values/wattage would be great too please as I didn't see the parts list anywhere. I too prefer your design. =) Thanks Jerry!
@@DrHarryT As I say in the video I attached the thermistor to the hot heatink so there is no danger of that. I also tested the unit for several days with 8 thermocouples attached to key parts (similar to the way I tested the reflow oven).
I don't think it is fair to conclude, that the psu is not up to spec when you ignore the manufacturers guidelines for assembly. They clearly state, that heat dissipation will fail if you remove the shell....
I just received the RD 6012 kit and the NVVV S-800-65 is not behaving as in your case. The fan is off and starts for some 5-10 sec every 1-2 minute or so. I think the speed is max, it´s quite noicy. This is going on always, even with zero load, and when the PS is loaded with some 50-100W the fans starts with the same (full?) speed constant on until a short while after the load is disconnected. I would like the solution with at slow speed all the time and then speeding up when needed only, has anyone checked on this version of the PS? Is the multi turn pot near the fan control and connector perhaps involved? Besides the fan speed the control circuit also is intended to shut down the PS if temperature is going to high, has any one tested this function? Although the PS is controlling the fan on/off all the time, there is the transistor and resistor near the fan connector as described belov, but I can not se any two speed action... I have done the same mods, dual diodes (BYV74/500) and the fan is moved to the outer chassi. I will also move the thermistor to have thermal contact with the diode cooling plate.
It is not good to have fans running 100% of the time when they are not needed. They fill equipment with dust and it was also far cheaper to add 1 transistor and a few diodes and resistors. You could of course fit a new fan if you wanted to to small fans are not silent and the grille in the enclosure would also need to be modified to make it 'silent'.
Probably a bit of both. Most of the noise is from the shape of the vent holes which create a lot of reaction noise but it is loud, If you lean out of your window you can probably hear it. It would probably be possible to find a less noisy fan but I do not want it spinning when the 6012 is in standby mode unless the heat sink is hot and that is how it now works. It should now only come on very rarely and in the new 'slow' mode it spins so slowly that it is almost silent.
its a shitty little 40mm fan that spins at like 4200 rpm. i never even used mine from the kit and drilled new holes for an 80mm computer fan i had lying around
Great modification. Thanks for your time.
As a tech, I never plan on running any type of equipment at 100 percent.
Riden made a very nice buck package. Yet i think they should provide a better power supply.
Every search i did tells me that the nvvv s800 was modeled after another well known switching power supply company. As you found out the engineering behind that nvvv unit was not up to proper specs.
In the end of all this we now have an option to modify, or purchase a different brand of supply.
I just recently purchased the RD6018. After one look at the power supply that was offered in the kit I said no thanks and ordered everything except the supply.
I enjoyed your videos BTW.
Only three years after you posted the video... Thank you. I found this four part series very helpful and informative. I built your fan mod from part four and it works well however there are a couple of problems with it. The zener diode on the schematic is drawn backwards while the video shows the zeners being installed the correct way around. Theree should also be a diode fitted across the fan to pretect the transistor from back emf. As the damage by back emf.
Jerry You have made 4 fantastic videos about the Riden Kit. Most people will never require a 60 volt supply, and probably most people that buy one don't realize that fifty volts is sufficient enough that can seriously hurt or kill someone.
I think the Riden RD6012 is an awesome Device. Though i would never let my teen enthusiasts have a dangerous 60 volt supply when 40 volts is sufficient for his needs.
The option exist to use other well know power supply manufactures to achieve a lower cleaner voltage. you also have the advantage to stack in series or parallel 2 units of power supplies to obtain your target voltage and power.
I’m enjoying being back on the bench. Thanks
Fixed my fan noise by adjusting r6 (2.7k) from Q2 (S8050)base to ground, it forms a resistive divider with the thermistor to give around 1.4 volts on the base. Of course they have selected a value that suits their ambient temp, my ambient here is 28-30c so by placing an 11k across R6 the fan stops/idles and kicks in as the temp rises. I also glued the thermistor to the diodes heatsink.
Power supply is S-1200-65. One could also fit a 20k trimpot instead.
I just watched through all your RD60XX videos including the linear supply build, and really enjoyed all the info you've provided. ... so when are the RD6018 vids coming? ;-D
Thank you for taking the time to share this valuable information.
Hi Jerry wil you be making a video how to modify the battery charger to earth ground? Would love to see that. thanks.
Riden has released the RD6018, I got one and also removed the cover. I probably will add another fan inside. Spare diodes are ordered already...
I'd love to see a comparison to the 6006 on output noise, CC response times, and OVP times.
Yes 😉
The fan that was running as a part of the case was there to pull in air to cool the power transistor heat sink. Fully enclosed, the grooves in the side force air right onto the heat sink since it was the only way in. So its possible that you caused the single transistor to fail perhaps?
Thank you guys for sharing all your knowledge. I exchanged R40 with a simple 150 Ohm 1W resistor and it works like a charm. The fan rotates from startup at low speed, when temperature raizes it goes full speed and once the temp go down, it goes back to low speed. Really nice especially for me when working by night. With fan at full speed all time it was simply unusable by night.
Can the fan itself be replaced with a quieter, better fan? Or does the form factor/size of impose fundamental limits on dB/RPM/dimensions ratios?
@@tacitovitowesterberg7674 Sincerely I think that ANY Noctua would do better, will be quiter and safer.
@@dzmecano485 but I assume you'd want to be sure that the replacement fan pulled same volume of air. Maybe in specs...
@@tacitovitowesterberg7674 But we don't have original fan spec. So the solution is to plug a set of temp sensors on all parts that may heat up, and monitor their state while applying a certain load to the PSU. After that, try to use ANY Noctua and check if the temperatures are the same (or lower). The main point is not to replace the fan with another one, the main point is that hot parts of this PSU keep working at correct temperatures at any time/load.
@@dzmecano485 ok.
Hello Jerry. I have the same power supply (NVVV) for my Riden 6012. This supply already have your scheme. The current limiting resistor must be replaced. I soldered two 82 ohm resistors in series, instead of one 60 ohms. The fan is now running at low speed. And when the temperature rises, the fan runs at maximum speed.
PS. the resistor is near the fan connector ;-)
Hello Evgeny
Is it the resistor that is mounted standing closest to the fan connector that you mean?
@@missko1962, yes. if you show me a pictures of the power supply board, then I can indicate with an arrow
@@evgenykosourov5958 How can I upload the picture?
@@evgenykosourov5958 Hi
Thank you very much I'll fix resistors and test
Have a nice weekend
Nice! How did you figure that out?
Is there a place to plug-in you speed control circuit for the RD6006 main power supply?
thank you for these vids. I don't have mine yet and maybe this is more obvious once the unit is here, but I'd like to understand where you connected that mod (other than the fan connection).
you should use it in the way that we recommend, I see you remove the case and install the fan to the back of the case, this will lead to a problem: the structural change of the heat dissipation system leads to insufficient heat dissipation. After the shell of the switching power supply is removed, the wind speed flowing through the heat sink decreases, Q=Sv, S increases, the wind speed v decreases, and the insufficient heat dissipation chip is overheated and damaged.
I think you are correct that the heat sink temperatures would be lower with the PSU case back on to channel the airflow…
however, is the single package dual not being overloaded (peak currents) when the PSU is run at full power? Saying it’ll only survive in low ambient temperatures with the PSU case on and with high airflow fan is saying the diodes are being driven too hard.
@@davadoff we have tested that we use full output to check the internal temperature, and the temperature is still under control, just maybe there will be fan noise
@@rdtech9153 I am very pleasantly surprised to see such active involvement of the manufacturer, I appreciate it very much :)
So I would like to take this opportunity to point out some minor inconveniences that may be solved in the next versions of the firmware / software.
1) The unit in the lower right corner shows temperature, output Ah, Wh etc, but the total time since “On” is missing. This would be very useful information, especially when using the charging function. It would be nice to have such a function also in the PC software in the "Basis Info" section, surely it is possible to modify this section slightly to fit the "Total Time" display. Suggested time format HH:MM:SS (hours, minutes, seconds).
2) Exporting a graph image - currently this option is available, but the image is unfortunately very small. It would be great to be able to export to a custom resolution.
3) Data logging - this option is also available, but is not done “on the fly”, but requires an export. In case of accidental disconnection from the device, all data is lost. It would be highly useful to record data in real time or at least at specified intervals.
I don't know if other users will agree with me, but these are my observations, maybe helpful.
Overall very practical, useful and well designed device :)
@@Tab7.6.Tab7.6 hello, thank you for your suggestion, for these advices, we already told our engineer to see if they will add it in the firmware later
Great video series! Is the psu supplied by Riden (S800 or the 1000W) isolated from the mains? Planning to use this as my new bench power supply.
I see a high-power green resistor across the internal power supply. Did that come with the kit, or is that a MOD?
Added Fan schematic starts at: 4:57
That resistor comes with the power supply due it may generate a high pitch noise, so you may add that resistor to prevent the noise!
I would be interested by doing output noise test with scope and the same test with the power supply (NVVV) but with and without all these mods (Case less, fan). I'm aware, it's quite hard now...
Sorry for my english. A frenchy !
Been following with interest, Jerry! Any chance you could explore the output of the 6012 with a 'scope? I am guessing ripple and noise will be worse than the 6006. Also, is the normal output relay switched on this one or is the relay just for charge termination on the battery terminal as for the 6006?
The issue you could run into with the fan running too slow is since it looks like the thermistor is in open air there may not be enough air flow to trigger the fan into high mode causing too much heat to build and degrade the semiconductors and Caps. Maybe extend the leads and attach it to one of the heatsinks.
Yes this is what I say in the final video. I attached the thermistor to the 'hot' heatsink.
Can you explain how the simple circuit works please? It looks like the zener diode is in backwards.
Now I have to open mine back up and check but im pretty sure my fan is off until hot, I bought my case kit about a year ago. Wonder if they have two different fan control boards depending on when it was produced. I'll check mine later today. Edit: Never mind I see now that its the PS doing the control. At first I thought this was the conrtol board that came with the case kit.
I think the difference is in the enclosure kit. The first kit I purchased for the RD6006 had a separate fan controller pcb in the kit and I used it to control a fan. I removed the original SM supply fan. The enclosure which came with the RD6012 did not have this board so I had to rely on the SM supply fan control and it is not very good. It runs Fast or Very Fast but never stops.
I'm planning to buy the RD6012W with a 48v 10.4A switching supply. should I go for the recommended 60v supply or will this just be fine? I'm planning to use it for electroplating among other things.
I've seen some reliability problems with RHoS (lead free) solder on some hot circuits. Would you recommend for or against resoldering some the larger, hotter high power solder joints with regular 60/40 lead solder? Thanks!
Hey Jerry, Looks like you resolved the high power bug in this RD2012W.. Have you done any low voltage / current testing with either the 06, or 12 A supplies ? Running an IC for instance at +/- 12 VDC, and say 10 to 29 mA ?
what value are the zeners?????
hi Jerry, Tx for sharing! I will order this supply soon. Before this supply will fail, I will add the diode. This is the diode at the output circuit ,Correct? I do like to order 2 pcs of this diode you replaced. What is the order code for this diode? Tx
I'd be interested in some ripple measurements
In your schematic you have the zener shown as forward biased which means that the voltage at the junction of the two resistors will be held at two diode drops! Is that REALLY what you planned? Is it just a slight drawing slip or did you actually wire it that way as well? If so, why use a zener, when an ordinary diode would do?
The - and + connections are not actually 'supply' and 'ground' connections. It is effectively a current controlled output. The zener in this mode provides the hysteresis I mention. You could actually reverse the zener if you wanted a fixed speed for the fan but then this could also be achieved by simply adjusting the threshold pot on the supply and not adding any circuitry but I wanted the fan to be off until the supply was in use and not always running (even slowly) when the supply was idle. It seems a bit of an odd fan control circuit on the supply and it makes the supply very annoying without modification. The first kit I ordered had a separate fan control board and it was much better.
@@robertplante8822 yes, [edited to be less ambiguous as I'm not disagreeing with you) just like I said, in his schematic the zener diode is FORWARD biased and acts as a STANDARD diode. This CANNOT be reverse biased because it has no means to be, other than via reverse biasing the base emitter junction of the transistor to the point of reverse breakdown.
I rechecked the video and you can actually make out that the ACTUAL implementation has the CATHODE (black bar) of the zener at the junction of the two resistors ... The way the schematic SHOULD be drawn.
Strictly speaking the bias chain does not require the bottom resistor either since it performs no real function in this circuit. If ONLY the top resistor is used then the circuit will work perfectly just the same. The only thing the top resistor does is to limit the current through the zener and into the transistor base. It acts ONLY to create a "threshold" voltage for the transistor to start to turn on at more than its normal 0.5-0.7v i.e. to delay the onset of the fan until a certain voltage is reached.
Ironically, EXACTLY the same result can be achieved by picking a MOSFET with a threshold voltage of the right value and current capacity and power rating to suit, then the zener is not even required either. This could be improved to a variable point by keeping the resistor divider chain or substituting a small linear pot in the bottom leg to provide a variable turn-on of the FET. It's important to note that the FET will operate in its linear region if the voltage at the input does not rise fast enough in which case using the zener instead of the top resistor, with a bias resistor below in series and connecting the junction to the FET gate (N-channel type) is all that's needed.
As multiple, suitable N-channel power FETs are readily available for FREE from any PC motherboard (even from the 286 and 386 era) this is an ideal source for hobbyists. Specs are readily available from on-line sources like All-Datasheet etc.
the transformer is wound in such a way that it is always cooled by the fan. That's why he put the sensor next to the transformer
Jerry, would you mind answering my question from your point of view also please? What are the pros and cons of your 4-component fan speed mod vs the dual resistor mod that's mentioned in another comment below? There's got to be some advantage in your design vs the 2 resistors in series method so please comment. Thanks!
It is entirely personal preference. There are many other options. What I wanted was for the fan to not run at all when the unit was first powered up as I tend to use equipment in the lab where everything is on a common power bus. I only wanted the fan to come on when the unit was specifically used. WIth the mod I show the fan does not run at all until the sensor heats up and then it will still run slowly even if the sensor cools down again (until power is cycled). The resistor mod just slows the fan down but it still spins at power up which is not what I wanted.
@@JerryWalker001 Gotcha. I like your results better, so if I could trouble you, would you please tell me what type/part # transistor and zener diode to get? Resistor values/wattage would be great too please as I didn't see the parts list anywhere. I too prefer your design. =) Thanks Jerry!
@@JerryWalker001 Keep in mind that with no air flow, components might get too hot before the radiant heat makes the fan turn on.
@@DrHarryT As I say in the video I attached the thermistor to the hot heatink so there is no danger of that. I also tested the unit for several days with 8 thermocouples attached to key parts (similar to the way I tested the reflow oven).
What's the value of the transistor?
Resistor? Don't know. I will have a look next time I remove the case and let you know.
@@JerryWalker001 - Jerry I meant Transistor. OOPS!
@@tubeDude48 Yes you did say transistor:) Which transistor are you referring to?
@@JerryWalker001 - The 1 on the circuit you built.
@@tubeDude48 It was a BC547 but any NPN should do.
I don't think it is fair to conclude, that the psu is not up to spec when you ignore the manufacturers guidelines for assembly. They clearly state, that heat dissipation will fail if you remove the shell....
Its resistor R40, 62ohm bridged across the fan transistor collector emitter terminals, either remove it or double the resistance fixed mine perfectly
I just received the RD 6012 kit and the NVVV S-800-65 is not behaving as in your case. The fan is off and starts for some 5-10 sec every 1-2 minute or so. I think the speed is max, it´s quite noicy. This is going on always, even with zero load, and when the PS is loaded with some 50-100W the fans starts with the same (full?) speed constant on until a short while after the load is disconnected.
I would like the solution with at slow speed all the time and then speeding up when needed only, has anyone checked on this version of the PS? Is the multi turn pot near the fan control and connector perhaps involved? Besides the fan speed the control circuit also is intended to shut down the PS if temperature is going to high, has any one tested this function? Although the PS is controlling the fan on/off all the time, there is the transistor and resistor near the fan connector as described belov, but I can not se any two speed action... I have done the same mods, dual diodes (BYV74/500) and the fan is moved to the outer chassi. I will also move the thermistor to have thermal contact with the diode cooling plate.
I just received mine - same issue: on/off from time to time even without a load. Did you solve it?
Why not bay a new fan, super silent?
It is not good to have fans running 100% of the time when they are not needed. They fill equipment with dust and it was also far cheaper to add 1 transistor and a few diodes and resistors. You could of course fit a new fan if you wanted to to small fans are not silent and the grille in the enclosure would also need to be modified to make it 'silent'.
That fan sounds really noisy, like it is not good. Could be just mic placement, hard to tell from here.
Probably a bit of both. Most of the noise is from the shape of the vent holes which create a lot of reaction noise but it is loud, If you lean out of your window you can probably hear it. It would probably be possible to find a less noisy fan but I do not want it spinning when the 6012 is in standby mode unless the heat sink is hot and that is how it now works.
It should now only come on very rarely and in the new 'slow' mode it spins so slowly that it is almost silent.
its a shitty little 40mm fan that spins at like 4200 rpm. i never even used mine from the kit and drilled new holes for an 80mm computer fan i had lying around
That fan is TERRIBLE ! Spend some money and get a Noctua fan. Very quiet and very efficient.