Schumacher battery charger intermittently not working.
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- opening up my full manual battery chargers, new and 30 year old one to see the issue with old one.
- i disd end up ordering one diode, il post the install of that soon.
Put new ends that go on the battery and check as to where it plugs into the wall to make sure the brass is not oxidized as this this will become resistive and cause it to shut down. Use small wire brush to clean. and the oxidized battery connectors may cause the same problem.
I have the same charger as your old one. Bought way back in the 70's and tossed around cross country several times. Still use it on our farm, because it is simple and reliable. Certainly has paid for itself many times over.
I got one of these that I'm trying to fix. I bought it when I was 18. It's 30 years old. It's been very reliable until recently. It kicks off intermittently regardless of what battery I try to charge? Can anyone steer me the right way?
You need to read the manual for your Fluke 88. When testing diodes, you select the diode test position, NOT resistance. The diode test is one click clockwise (has the diode symbol). On the resistance setting, it looked like you were reading in the meg ohms which tells you nothing. On the proper selection, you should read somewhere near .6V in one direction and OL in the other.
I NOTICED THAT MYSELF RIGHT OFF THE BAT!!
Apparently you have never tested a diodes with a Simpson 260 meter or any other Analog type meter. I have a Fluke 75, Fluke 85 and a Simpson 260 and have been in Electronic testing for over 38 years.
Thinking my Diodes were bad, I got a full bridge rectifier off of Ambuttzon, part number: KBPC5010, but you have to know how to wire it up, something I can't explain here. However, in my case, it's a blown fuse built into the transformer, which I may still try to find away around since I can't deal with "smart" chargers when I need a solid running charger 24/7. Wish I could explain how to wire the KBCP rectifier, but some googling might be your friend if wanting to fix it for sentimental reasons. I'd be very quick to test the power switch thoroughly as well.
You do have a bad diode as shown. Reason the voltage goes up when you add the battery is because it adds captaincies to the circuit. If you where to place a capacitor across the output of the charger you would get the same results. This is the difference between RMS and Peak to Peak voltage. When AC goes through a Diode it only blocks half of the sine wave. So you have 0 to the peak voltage either minus or positive depending the way it goes thorough the diode. Thus you still have half of the sinewave that is why the voltage goes up when you add capacitance to the output. Basically it helps smooth out the DC Voltage to the RMS level. Hope this helps.
did you look at the meter
@@blackknight1397 Yes i did. When the meter is resistance mode the leads will have voltage on them That is why you never hook up a meter in resistance mode to a power source. What you are looking for it to show forward resistance vs the revere voltage reading. when a meter is in resistance mode all it is doing is showing a voltage drop that shows up as resistance on the display. The higher the range the more voltage the meter has to have, That is why most Analog meters have two batteries in them usually one 1.5 volt and a 9 volt battery. With the Digital meter they have about a Megaohms impedance and only one high voltage battery like 9 volts is all that is needed for both display and resistance. I have done this many times. Only the diode checks does is show you the voltage drop not resistance. Forward voltage will show you a reading of low resistance and reverse voltage will show you a high or (OL) on the meter. If you look all the other diodes they showed low resistance one way and OL on the others except for the one that is bad. All he needs to do is replace that one and he will be back in business.
I miss my Simpson 260 :)
@@williamott3569
Thanks William, I appreciate the constructive criticism comment. 🛠️