I always struggled to work out what I was doing wrong with these connectors, this video totally answered all my questions without any random irrelevant dribble.
Very well done video. I have several loose RG6 cables coming out of the wall of my new house and wanted to know how to terminate them, This one is very comprehensive and very well spoken, Thanks.
Thanks for your time making this video..this was the main reason that was holding me back..running cables through walls is easy but the crimping always came out loose..thanks to you that is not the problem anymore. Thanks again
Same here niffumau, Best explanation on youtube. I have been messing with cables for a while now and this video answers all of my questions I had for years.
Very helpful for showing the different types of coax terminators (screw-on (good), crimp (better), compression (best) in my opinion). I think most people don't understand the principle of the mufti-shielded cable and what the end result is that you are trying to achieve for a good cable termination Your cable example uses tri-shield. In the areas I've lived the cable companies have used quad shield - 4 layers of conductor, between the white dielectric and the outer vinyl/rubber shield. The layers in these cables are in a little different order, but the end result is the same - 1 shield of foil over the dielectric with the strands pushed back or clipped. You get bonus points for showing a couple methods at the end on how to then test out your work to verify a good cable connection. Thanks for your efforts and good job in doing so.
excellent! I had no idea of how to make my own terminated coaxial cables. I've done it a lot of times for Ethernet (RJ45) cables, but I had no idea it was so easy with coaxial too (with the proper tools). Thanks!
Also glad for this video, but the irony isn't lost on me that the audio for this video on correct cable termination suffers from interference from chronic earthing hum. But, hey, that's recording inside the office for you. :-)
good info here in this video. the low frequency audio hum is slightly annoying, but nonetheless the information is solid and on point. I wish the install techs around my area would watch this and take notes, because it's not that difficult when you have the right tools for the job.
Continuing, from my earlier post... ace. Paladin Tools make several tools to flare the outer shields and sheath to pre-form a space so that the tupe gets started properly -- Google "RG6Q flare tool". Or, you can take apart a connector and use the tube portion of it to form the gap. To take a compression connector apart, just "uncompress" it (this works using either a new or used connector), and the inner tube falls out.
Compression are the only connectors to use. Everything else will fail return loss tests, which will result in poor transmission of digital signals. The biggest headache we have at work is improper coaxial cable connectors. When doing an installation or repair for IPTV, they all have to be changed to compression. It is the bonding that is affected the most, and compression are the only ones that provide a good ground bond.
@@johnmathewmanuel1933 Yes a screw on F Type connector can be used for RG6. A compression connector is a better option, but if you don't have the special tools and a screw on connector is all you have, then we thought we'd show you how to do it.
@@sciteq thank you for the help sir, i buy a compression connector for just extension of cable but in outlet its a screw type. So it is ok. Appreciate your help sir God bless
A warning for UK readers: most cable sold in the UK as RG6 has a copper-coated STEEL core that has a high resistance and is unsuitable for long runs where current is carried (e.g. satellite TV). In addition, it usually has ALUMINIUM foil screening (instead of copper), which increases the resistance and reduces the screening (compared with copper).
i am considering making my own subwoofer cable to save on the relatively high cost of buying a pre-made one. i am not electrical expert, but i have done some research tonight and heard this type of cable (RG6) mentioned. as an expert, would you advise me to use this cable to make a subwoofer RCA cable ?. any advise would be much appreciated.
Cable stripping for PCT RG6 Q Compression connector The correct way to prepare the cable is to remove the loose layer of foil and the 2 layers of braid. Do not fold them back as unlike a crimp connector the folded back braid doesn’t form part of the connection process. For a crimp connector , apart from earthing, it also improves the chances of the connector staying on the cable. As the compression process is completely different it does not need that braid folded back and in some cases it can make it difficult to push connector on to some brands of RG6 if the braid is folded back.
My input cable antenna that’s in my tv no longer in tv. I need some very easy help to fix this year old tv. Can only stream with Roku. Please help thank you sooooooo much
Hi Mal, Compression connectors do give them best connection, then crimp and lastly screw on. But obviously you'll need specialised tools for a compression and crimp connection. FYI, The Australian Government's Digital Ready taskforce recommends compression connectors ONLY for use with digital TV. But this is not to say that crimp or screw on connectors won't work with digital.
Do you have to remove the foil? I've see some people leaving it others removing it. Which is correct and why? What are the disadvantages of leaving it on? I always use compression connectors...or does it matter on the type of cable? If so, it's RG6...but I don't know if it's quad shield or not. I suppose whatever is most common is what I buy and use.
MrYorkman We remove the foil in order to flair the braid behind it. Inside a F Connector you'll see a inner ring which is designed to slide in and make contact with the foil/braid. If you leave the foil & braid in place, this inner ring can bunch it up and make it hard to push the connector on. By flairing the braid before hand, you avoid this problem. Compression connectors do offer the best connection, but you'll need to ensure you using right size connector for the cable.
+Ed Baker Are you talking about the head of the connector? All F Type connectors are the same diameter. If's it anything larger, then it's not an F Type connector. If your talking about end that you screw over the jacket, then different diameters are for different type of RG6, whether it be RG6 dual, tri or quad shield. The different RG6 types are slightly different diameters so it's best to get the right size screw on connector for the cable.
just to confirm: does the outer braid shield layer has to be electrically connected with the inner braid shield? There are two conflicting opinions going around. Some cut the outer shield off and only use the inner, others connect both. If you connect two why do you have two in the first place.. i could not find any official documentation on that topic.
Yes the outer and inner braids (and foils) are all electrically connected throughout the entire cable anyway. Some people cut off the outer braid simply to make it easier to slide the connector on. We prefer folding it back as it stops the braid from bunching up below the jacket.
even if you connect the inner shield alone the braid will still be physically connected to it in the cable. 1 conductor is irrelevant and two is unavoidable.
Pushing the quad-shield cable into a compression connector stimied me for a long time. I finally took a cable apart to understand the structure, and quickly found my problem. Inside the connector there's a thin-walled tube that's supposed to slide onto the cable, between the innermost foil and the adjacent braid. But if the tube fails to slide into that gap, it hangs up and is impossible to push on further. There are 2 ways to easily solve this problem, one cheap, one not, but I've run out of sp
Man, I can't tell you how frustrating it is trying to force on a connector on quad shielded cable when you have only pulled back a single set of braids.
This is the second video I've seen where the term "terminate" is used to describe the creation of the connection. One reason it shouldn't be referred to as "terminated" is because in the cable industry an open like is never terminated unless you use a 75 Ohm terminating device. Did "terminate come from the telecommunications industry?
I'm not sure what manufacturer made the screw-on Type F connectors I used. But somehow intuitive of how this was going together, I was concerned about the integrity of the shield, and it would be cut by the threads while assembling it. Afterward, while examining it, individual strands started falling out of the cable end of the connector. So I unscrewed it, and as I thought the shield was cut clean at the end of jacket. There may still be some continuity there, but with a little pulling of the cable may be not or intermitant. I would not recommend this type of connector! Take one back apart, and I trust you won't want to use it, stick with crimp or compression connectors.
I see many damaged satellite LNBs, and probably 50% of them have been wrecked by the installer who left the F-type male inner too long, resulting in a smashed female. "It's a bit long so trim it back a bit" really isn't good enough guidance. If the assembly too can't set the proper length, then some specifics on exactly the correct length of the centre conductor would be good. That and a bit of explanation of the mayhem caused by leaviing it over-length.
We've hardly ever seen any damage like this, but if you want an exact number Australian Standards (AS/NZS 1367:2007 Appendix C2 paragraph C) says 1.5mm to 2.5mm from the face of the connector.
SCITEQ PTY LTD WANGARA That's good stuff. But you're lucky - installers in some parts of the world don't even seem to carry the proper set of tools, let alone know how to trim an inner. I've seen coax connectors tightened with plumbers' wrenches.
SCITEQ PTY LTD WANGARA it was an actual question, not a criticism. your title only tells me what you're doing. I'm curious about the benefits from doing this
***** Apologies. In order to connect coaxial cable to something like an antenna, splitter or wallplate you'll need to put an F-Type Male connector on it. Modern TV hardware should have F Type Female connectors built in. (Older hardware may have a saddle and screw connection where no connector is needed and the cable is simply clamped in. This type of connection was often used for analogue TV and is not recommended for digital TV.)
10 років тому
This is most perfect connector for ever and serviceable one
![ЛЕБЕДЕВ у ДУДЯ: муху не обманешь 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E74h5fvVrqs/mqdefault.jpg)
That was a great demonstration of how to strip and connect the wire, and connectors.
Legendary training video. Sorts all of the trial and error I have contended with over the years.
I always struggled to work out what I was doing wrong with these connectors, this video totally answered all my questions without any random irrelevant dribble.
The best and simplest vid I have ever seen on this....thanks !
Just wanted to thank you for this video. Very useful, simple, and to the point. Thank you.
No other tutorials put it together like your video did. Good job!
Very well done video. I have several loose RG6 cables coming out of the wall of my new house and wanted to know how to terminate them, This one is very comprehensive and very well spoken, Thanks.
Thanks for your time making this video..this was the main reason that was holding me back..running cables through walls is easy but the crimping always came out loose..thanks to you that is not the problem anymore.
Thanks again
Same here niffumau, Best explanation on youtube. I have been messing with cables for a while now and this video answers all of my questions I had for years.
Excellent demo. I was having trouble using a screw on f connector on a 6.0 quad cable. Good explanation of the difference.
Very helpful for showing the different types of coax terminators (screw-on (good), crimp (better), compression (best) in my opinion). I think most people don't understand the principle of the mufti-shielded cable and what the end result is that you are trying to achieve for a good cable termination Your cable example uses tri-shield. In the areas I've lived the cable companies have used quad shield - 4 layers of conductor, between the white dielectric and the outer vinyl/rubber shield. The layers in these cables are in a little different order, but the end result is the same - 1 shield of foil over the dielectric with the strands pushed back or clipped. You get bonus points for showing a couple methods at the end on how to then test out your work to verify a good cable connection. Thanks for your efforts and good job in doing so.
Q
This video just saved me SO much time. Thank you for this demo
excellent! I had no idea of how to make my own terminated coaxial cables. I've done it a lot of times for Ethernet (RJ45) cables, but I had no idea it was so easy with coaxial too (with the proper tools). Thanks!
Also glad for this video, but the irony isn't lost on me that the audio for this video on correct cable termination suffers from interference from chronic earthing hum. But, hey, that's recording inside the office for you. :-)
Thank you all for you comments. My apologies for the audio hum, if I known this video was going to be so popular, I would have tried to fix it.
.....and i thought my Tinnitus was playing up !
Great Video 10/10 Well Done
Very well done. Best video on this subject that I have seen. Thanks.
Best video on the subject, thanks!
Thank you so much for this excellent guide.
Really helped with my college electrical class, thanks.
clear, concise & to the point. cheers
Very well explained. I think this will solve my signal scramble with aerial signal. Thank You!
very clear and simple explanation Thank You
your video is one of the best i've seen
Thanks for the demonstration mate.
Nice Video.. straight to the point !
This is most perfect connector for ever and serviceable one
Thank you. Appreciate you for sharing this.
fantastisch goed uitgelegd!
good info here in this video. the low frequency audio hum is slightly annoying, but nonetheless the information is solid and on point. I wish the install techs around my area would watch this and take notes, because it's not that difficult when you have the right tools for the job.
very informative practical video tutorial thanks.
Nice info thank you very helpful
Very Helpful! Thank You!
great video. thanks!
Excellent. Thanks.
good video, thanks.
great video thank you.
nice video!
Continuing, from my earlier post... ace. Paladin Tools make several tools to flare the outer shields and sheath to pre-form a space so that the tupe gets started properly -- Google "RG6Q flare tool". Or, you can take apart a connector and use the tube portion of it to form the gap. To take a compression connector apart, just "uncompress" it (this works using either a new or used connector), and the inner tube falls out.
How did you strip it at multiple different depths with your cutter like that?
Compression are the only connectors to use. Everything else will fail return loss tests, which will result in poor transmission of digital signals. The biggest headache we have at work is improper coaxial cable connectors. When doing an installation or repair for IPTV, they all have to be changed to compression. It is the bonding that is affected the most, and compression are the only ones that provide a good ground bond.
Agreed. We suggest to use compression connectors first and foremost.
@@sciteq sir may i ask if screw on f type is not applicabl to RG6 cable ?
@@johnmathewmanuel1933 Yes a screw on F Type connector can be used for RG6. A compression connector is a better option, but if you don't have the special tools and a screw on connector is all you have, then we thought we'd show you how to do it.
@@sciteq thank you for the help sir, i buy a compression connector for just extension of cable but in outlet its a screw type. So it is ok. Appreciate your help sir God bless
A warning for UK readers: most cable sold in the UK as RG6 has a copper-coated STEEL core that has a high resistance and is unsuitable for long runs where current is carried (e.g. satellite TV). In addition, it usually has ALUMINIUM foil screening (instead of copper), which increases the resistance and reduces the screening (compared with copper).
i am considering making my own subwoofer cable to save on the relatively high cost of buying a pre-made one. i am not electrical expert, but i have done some research tonight and heard this type of cable (RG6) mentioned. as an expert, would you advise me to use this cable to make a subwoofer RCA cable ?. any advise would be much appreciated.
i got 15 inch Altec Woofers that amp that kool vibe.
Cable stripping for PCT RG6 Q Compression connector
The correct way to prepare the cable is to remove the loose layer of foil and the 2 layers of braid. Do not fold them back as unlike a crimp connector the folded back braid doesn’t form part of the connection process. For a crimp connector , apart from earthing, it also improves the chances of the connector staying on the cable. As the compression process is completely different it does not need that braid folded back and in some cases it can make it difficult to push connector on to some brands of RG6 if the braid is folded back.
Could this fix my Sega 3 adaptor cause its cut where you plug it to the tv ?
So why do you have to fold back the braids is it bad to leave them?
My input cable antenna that’s in my tv no longer in tv. I need some very easy help to fix this year old tv. Can only stream with Roku. Please help thank you sooooooo much
thanx for sharing.
Thank you for your tutorial and well-thought-out steps. but have you noticed elecbee connectors or rf cables? it's cheaper.
Great topic, but you don't need a cable stripper and you should show how to do it without expensive tools.
Thanks for the informative video, but... which connection method do you reckon is best?
The one I sell branded "Monster Cable".
Hi Mal,
Compression connectors do give them best connection, then crimp and lastly screw on. But obviously you'll need specialised tools for a compression and crimp connection.
FYI, The Australian Government's Digital Ready taskforce recommends compression connectors ONLY for use with digital TV. But this is not to say that crimp or screw on connectors won't work with digital.
Do you have to remove the foil? I've see some people leaving it others removing it. Which is correct and why? What are the disadvantages of leaving it on? I always use compression connectors...or does it matter on the type of cable? If so, it's RG6...but I don't know if it's quad shield or not. I suppose whatever is most common is what I buy and use.
MrYorkman We remove the foil in order to flair the braid behind it. Inside a F Connector you'll see a inner ring which is designed to slide in and make contact with the foil/braid. If you leave the foil & braid in place, this inner ring can bunch it up and make it hard to push the connector on. By flairing the braid before hand, you avoid this problem.
Compression connectors do offer the best connection, but you'll need to ensure you using right size connector for the cable.
Why do some rg 6 Q connectors have a larger diameter screw ring than standard F connectors?
+Ed Baker Are you talking about the head of the connector? All F Type connectors are the same diameter. If's it anything larger, then it's not an F Type connector. If your talking about end that you screw over the jacket, then different diameters are for different type of RG6, whether it be RG6 dual, tri or quad shield. The different RG6 types are slightly different diameters so it's best to get the right size screw on connector for the cable.
thanks. maybe replace microphone cables, as mains hum isn't what you'd want on your video about properly fitting cable connectors?
Thanks for point out the irony! Yes I should have recorded it with the camera using the battery instead.
just to confirm: does the outer braid shield layer has to be electrically connected with the inner braid shield? There are two conflicting opinions going around. Some cut the outer shield off and only use the inner, others connect both.
If you connect two why do you have two in the first place.. i could not find any official documentation on that topic.
Yes the outer and inner braids (and foils) are all electrically connected throughout the entire cable anyway. Some people cut off the outer braid simply to make it easier to slide the connector on. We prefer folding it back as it stops the braid from bunching up below the jacket.
even if you connect the inner shield alone the braid will still be physically connected to it in the cable. 1 conductor is irrelevant and two is unavoidable.
Pushing the quad-shield cable into a compression connector stimied me for a long time. I finally took a cable apart to understand the structure, and quickly found my problem. Inside the connector there's a thin-walled tube that's supposed to slide onto the cable, between the innermost foil and the adjacent braid. But if the tube fails to slide into that gap, it hangs up and is impossible to push on further. There are 2 ways to easily solve this problem, one cheap, one not, but I've run out of sp
Ta ta ta turn up the BASSSSSSSSSSS
Man, I can't tell you how frustrating it is trying to force on a connector on quad shielded cable when you have only pulled back a single set of braids.
This is the second video I've seen where the term "terminate" is used to describe the creation of the connection. One reason it shouldn't be referred to as "terminated" is because in the cable industry an open like is never terminated unless you use a 75 Ohm terminating device. Did "terminate come from the telecommunications industry?
In this instance the term 'terminate' refers more to physically terminating the coaxial cable rather than terminating the RF signal.
i have an f connector crimper.
I'm not sure what manufacturer made the screw-on Type F connectors I used. But somehow intuitive of how this was going together, I was concerned about the integrity of the shield, and it would be cut by the threads while assembling it. Afterward, while examining it, individual strands started falling out of the cable end of the connector. So I unscrewed it, and as I thought the shield was cut clean at the end of jacket. There may still be some continuity there, but with a little pulling of the cable may be not or intermitant. I would not recommend this type of connector!
Take one back apart, and I trust you won't want to use it, stick with crimp or compression connectors.
I see many damaged satellite LNBs, and probably 50% of them have been wrecked by the installer who left the F-type male inner too long, resulting in a smashed female. "It's a bit long so trim it back a bit" really isn't good enough guidance. If the assembly too can't set the proper length, then some specifics on exactly the correct length of the centre conductor would be good. That and a bit of explanation of the mayhem caused by leaviing it over-length.
We've hardly ever seen any damage like this, but if you want an exact number Australian Standards (AS/NZS 1367:2007 Appendix C2 paragraph C) says 1.5mm to 2.5mm from the face of the connector.
SCITEQ PTY LTD WANGARA That's good stuff. But you're lucky - installers in some parts of the world don't even seem to carry the proper set of tools, let alone know how to trim an inner. I've seen coax connectors tightened with plumbers' wrenches.
Free movies
whats the point of doing all of this?
We think the title is self explanatory
SCITEQ PTY LTD WANGARA
it was an actual question, not a criticism. your title only tells me what you're doing. I'm curious about the benefits from doing this
***** Apologies. In order to connect coaxial cable to something like an antenna, splitter or wallplate you'll need to put an F-Type Male connector on it. Modern TV hardware should have F Type Female connectors built in. (Older hardware may have a saddle and screw connection where no connector is needed and the cable is simply clamped in. This type of connection was often used for analogue TV and is not recommended for digital TV.)
This is most perfect connector for ever and serviceable one