I've noticed you're not making video's any longer. Selfishly I wish you'd start again. These are my go-to video's because of how clear and to the point they are.
I will say, this video has single handedly saved me on every service I have completed on my Yeti SB 150. Thanks for such an informative video and a special thank you for including all the torque ratings
Great Vid, extremely useful. Tip not mentioned is male bolt for the linkage may require a hammer to remove. I used a 10 mm hex wrench pushed against a 10 mm socket to pound it out from the other side. It would not move at all. Reading comments, seems like others have had a similar problem. Thinking Yeti should have made a larger diameter tunnel in the frame.
Getting my SB150 ready for the new riding season and this will be my first full tear down of the linkage. Saving this video for reference if I need it.
Nice video. I've been servicing the SI since I bought my SB130 late last year but haven't done a tear-down on the upper linkage yet. I never knew about the guide pins so I just ordered one from Yeti, that should make my life a lot easier.
Thank you for these videos. They are very helpful. I like the music but think it is a tiny bit loud. I paid the 30 (less my first time order as a Yeti owner 25% discount) for the grease and matching gun.
Wondering if you had suggestions for collar axel that does not thread out when I do this maintenance for my yeti sb4.5c? When I unscrew the collar axel, it pushes the nut on the drive side out of the frame instead of coming out. Used a rubber mallet as suggested by another u-tuber. Worked good on the upper collar axel to the dog bone but not the lower one connected to the switch infinity. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Hi I buy a yeti last week sb100 what Caine a grease can I use and it's the same Nm to my yeti thanks nice video God bless you 👍🖐 I'm from San Diego California
Awesome video I have a 140 on the way but just the c1 build. Will you be doing videos on shock and fork set up. Even though mine I ant the factory I’m sure it will be the same principle
Umm probably not. Suspension setup is so order specific. The setup guide on Yetis website is good to get most people right where they need to be within a few clicks
Excellent point, IBL. Even if repacking bearings extends their life, it's best not to make it a mandatory maintenance step in a public forum in which warranty issues could be in play.
I think it is an AC Delco. Any auto parts store will have something similar. Park tool has one for about double the price. Any high molybdenum grease works. I think that’s what it is called, I got mine at the same auto parts store for $5, enough to a lifetime almost.
Fyi. On sb150 and sb165 you can access the rear grease port without removing the main pivot bolt... Remove shock and rear wheel and swing the rear triangle upwards
This is actually a great tip as I cannot get the main pivot bolt to unscrew out, despite whacking several times with a rubber mallet, Removing the shock is actually much preferable to continuing to pound against the bolt.
So Iv been servicing my link and just realised I don’t have any of the spacers for the link??? It’s an sb140, should I be worried or did they stop using the spacers after a certain age. Thanks 🤘🏻
Agreed that the switch pivot bearings should not be removed, but these are not sealed bearings (unlike the dogbone link bearings, which are sealed and cannot be serviced), so they will dry out if not repacked. Yeti recommends replacing the bearings every year so of course does not recommend repacking. If they are regularly spun and repacked, they will last many years.
When I take mine apart I make sure the bearings are spun. I have done this on various Yeti bikes, one of which, the SI bearing lasted 3 years before they started to get crunchy. I suppose you could fully clean them and repack them to extend the life but given that is not a recommendation by Yeti I am not going to suggest or endorse that for people for a few reasons including potential warranty complications if damages should occur. But yes, it could be done, and likely would extend the life of the bearings and SI link as a whole.
I've just changed the DPX2 for an X2 on a SB130, did find it a struggle to align the the shock extender to the sock? When I'm tightening the bolt it feels like I'm cross threading the bolt. Did you have the same issues? Excellent video by the way. Thanks
Hi! Greetings from Finland! Thanks a lot for your really helpful videos! Just one question concerning the SI service: which RRP adaptor kit (RRP code) do you use with your SB150?
Something similar to the Park Tool FR-5.2G casette tool. There are more cost effective options out there from X Tools etc but you get what you pay for. Also the grease from Yeti is fine but I got mine from an auto parts store. You need to look for Heavy Duty Molybdenum. I got enough for $5 to last a lifetime.
Will be ok do this service every year or two? And just using the grease every 30 rides without remove the system will be fine? Any problems with muddy days and the switch infinity sistem? Thanks
I do this service once a year. I normally just add grease to the SI ports every 3-4 months. Mud etc aren’t an issue as long as you follow this schedule.
I am having trouble removing the main pivot bolt. I have tried tapping it lightly with a hammer but have had no luck. Any idea what I could do to remove it?
Dumb question but you took out the smaller bolt already right? If that is the case and it still won’t come out make sure you have loosened the bolt. I have had that happen where the shaft is stuck. Have the bolt about half way into the threads of the retaining nut/key and using an Allen key that is the same size, roughly an 8mm, place it on the bolt from the nut side. Use a hammer to knock it free. On reassembly make sure to grease the bolt shaft to prevent this the next time.
@@IslandBikeLife thanks for the info. So I don’t have to remove the shock or any bolts to service only the SI link? I wouldn’t be doing anything with the dog bone link etc.
@@RobGams If you just want to grease it no you won't. If you do want to fully remove it then you will have to remove the main pivot bolt but the shock can stay connected.
Do you have any advice how to remove the main pivot in an easy way? 3 out of 4 times the bolt is stucked inside the frame and I need to use a sledgehammer to carefully remove the bolt. Every time I reinstall the bolt, after greasing my Switch Infinity, I use some grease for the bold and clean off everything. But the bolt still stuck the next time I want to remove it.
Strange, I haven’t experienced that at all. If it is not sliding out you will have to use some force. Just be careful, a soft rubber mallet will do the trick.
@@IslandBikeLife Have you noticed any gap between the shock link where the lower linkage bolt goes through when installing this into the pivot on the frame? I have about 0.5mm (0.25MM per side) gap between bearings and frame. When I tighten the lower linkage bolt to 15nm the bearings start to bind. It seems as though it needs a shim?
Craig Anderson if I am understanding you correctly I haven’t noticed that at all. There is not any shim or spacer that should be at that location. I am not sure what exactly might be causing that for you.
Basically cleaners for the most part. Nothing harsh at all and most often just water will do the job. My go to is Muc Off cleaner. Works well for everything even when super diluted.
From my local shop. You can order direct from Yeti also. I am sure you could get a similar pin at a slightly lower cost from an auto parts store or something similar.
It isn’t really clamped. It is just balancing essentially. I wouldn’t feel comfortable really clamping down on the frame with any more force than I would use to pick it up.
dude you didn't even clean the bearing while you had everything out? also a better idea is to get some suspension cleaner and to spray out the infinity link, stanchions, seals, and everything before wiping down with a microfiber. this way you remove all of the grime and grit before wiping anything.
Great bike , rides smooth ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing .
He forgot to repack the switch bearings, which is essential when servicing the infinity link. Remove the black circular rings around the pivot bolt and pack the bearings with molybdenum (lithium base) grease.
Both Yeti and Fox do not recommend this. When the link is off rotation the bearings is sufficient. The bearings themselves nor the sealed facings should be removed.
I've noticed you're not making video's any longer. Selfishly I wish you'd start again. These are my go-to video's because of how clear and to the point they are.
I will say, this video has single handedly saved me on every service I have completed on my Yeti SB 150. Thanks for such an informative video and a special thank you for including all the torque ratings
Watched the whole video and I don't even have a Yeti.....yet. Thanks for the great info!!
Awesome! Thanks for watching and hope you grab one soon.
@@IslandBikeLife how can you tell which way to put the stancions back in the link and snitch way to put the switch infinity link back in the frame
Great Vid, extremely useful. Tip not mentioned is male bolt for the linkage may require a hammer to remove. I used a 10 mm hex wrench pushed against a 10 mm socket to pound it out from the other side. It would not move at all. Reading comments, seems like others have had a similar problem. Thinking Yeti should have made a larger diameter tunnel in the frame.
Getting my SB150 ready for the new riding season and this will be my first full tear down of the linkage. Saving this video for reference if I need it.
just did my first full teardown on the sb130. this video really helped with the switch - thanks!!!!
Nice video. I've been servicing the SI since I bought my SB130 late last year but haven't done a tear-down on the upper linkage yet. I never knew about the guide pins so I just ordered one from Yeti, that should make my life a lot easier.
Good video, quick and to the point, good audio quality and explanation.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for posting this, man! Love the way you recorded and commented it.
Thanks for watching and the feedback
A video teaching how to service the pivots on a yeti asr will be so helpful 🙏🤞🤙...thanks
Just got a new sub, great videos super clear and amazing video quality. Cheers dude!.
Thank you for these videos. They are very helpful. I like the music but think it is a tiny bit loud. I paid the 30 (less my first time order as a Yeti owner 25% discount) for the grease and matching gun.
Wondering if you had suggestions for collar axel that does not thread out when I do this maintenance for my yeti sb4.5c? When I unscrew the collar axel, it pushes the nut on the drive side out of the frame instead of coming out. Used a rubber mallet as suggested by another u-tuber. Worked good on the upper collar axel to the dog bone but not the lower one connected to the switch infinity. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Hi I buy a yeti last week sb100 what Caine a grease can I use and it's the same Nm to my yeti thanks nice video God bless you 👍🖐 I'm from San Diego California
Great music for this video man.
Thanks for this video. The SB130 manual says to apply Loctite to the Main Pivot Collet Bolt, looks like you did grease?
I feel the local craft beer falls under "necessary" tools.
Awesome video I have a 140 on the way but just the c1 build. Will you be doing videos on shock and fork set up. Even though mine I ant the factory I’m sure it will be the same principle
Umm probably not. Suspension setup is so order specific. The setup guide on Yetis website is good to get most people right where they need to be within a few clicks
Excellent point, IBL. Even if repacking bearings extends their life, it's best not to make it a mandatory maintenance step in a public forum in which warranty issues could be in play.
Thanks for the infomation.. It was a big problem for me, who owns the SB5.
Happy to help
Great helpful video, that makes this process simple. For me it would have been slightly easier to hear without the music.
Awesome video. What make of grease gun are you using and what type of geese please
I think it is an AC Delco. Any auto parts store will have something similar. Park tool has one for about double the price. Any high molybdenum grease works. I think that’s what it is called, I got mine at the same auto parts store for $5, enough to a lifetime almost.
Excellent video. My next project. Thanks
Glad it helped!
This was great and super helpful, thanks.
Glad it could help!
Fyi. On sb150 and sb165 you can access the rear grease port without removing the main pivot bolt...
Remove shock and rear wheel and swing the rear triangle upwards
Removing the rear shock vs the main pivot bolt? Both are a pain vs the old design where you didn’t have to remove anything. But thanks for the info.
@@IslandBikeLife yes it's just another way to grease it.
This is actually a great tip as I cannot get the main pivot bolt to unscrew out, despite whacking several times with a rubber mallet, Removing the shock is actually much preferable to continuing to pound against the bolt.
@@andrewyeoman4720 it can take a few whacks to break it loose
I am sure you are aware but just in case I think that main bolt is counter thread… might be your issue
Great video, well done!
Thanks for watching
So Iv been servicing my link and just realised I don’t have any of the spacers for the link??? It’s an sb140, should I be worried or did they stop using the spacers after a certain age. Thanks 🤘🏻
i have a 2018 yeti sb130 frame i sourced for a really good price. i still need the rear triangle any idea where i could find a used one?
How would you go about removing bearing from the SI link?
Agreed that the switch pivot bearings should not be removed, but these are not sealed bearings (unlike the dogbone link bearings, which are sealed and cannot be serviced), so they will dry out if not repacked. Yeti recommends replacing the bearings every year so of course does not recommend repacking. If they are regularly spun and repacked, they will last many years.
When I take mine apart I make sure the bearings are spun. I have done this on various Yeti bikes, one of which, the SI bearing lasted 3 years before they started to get crunchy. I suppose you could fully clean them and repack them to extend the life but given that is not a recommendation by Yeti I am not going to suggest or endorse that for people for a few reasons including potential warranty complications if damages should occur. But yes, it could be done, and likely would extend the life of the bearings and SI link as a whole.
Very helpful guide! Cheers
Thanks for watching.
I've just changed the DPX2 for an X2 on a SB130, did find it a struggle to align the the shock extender to the sock? When I'm tightening the bolt it feels like I'm cross threading the bolt. Did you have the same issues? Excellent video by the way. Thanks
Make sure the Shock has no air. Gives you more wiggle room to align things.
@@IslandBikeLife Thanks for the swift reply, I did let all the air out, I think it will just take some more wiggling and patience😃.
Thank you for this one.
Hi! Greetings from Finland! Thanks a lot for your really helpful videos! Just one question concerning the SI service: which RRP adaptor kit (RRP code) do you use with your SB150?
Check out the bearing service video, all the details are in there.
Is the wedge bolt necessary? I bought a used sb150 and it doesn’t have one
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was useful!
Is that a normal bearing or is it like Yeti specific?
Edit: The bearing on the infinity link thingy.
Thank you.....I'll gather the tools and try my luck.
It is really very simple overall, just take your time the first go round.
it would be great if you could show pulling all the bearings (including SI) and pressing in new ones.
Perhaps on a follow up video once they actually need to be replaced.
@@IslandBikeLife Great video. I'd also be keen to see the bearing replacement
also interested in this
How can I order the long screwto push the other one's
Can you link to cassette tool and the grease needed? Also I have a 2019 sb6. I assume process is similar.
Something similar to the Park Tool FR-5.2G casette tool. There are more cost effective options out there from X Tools etc but you get what you pay for. Also the grease from Yeti is fine but I got mine from an auto parts store. You need to look for Heavy Duty Molybdenum. I got enough for $5 to last a lifetime.
Will be ok do this service every year or two?
And just using the grease every 30 rides without remove the system will be fine?
Any problems with muddy days and the switch infinity sistem?
Thanks
I do this service once a year. I normally just add grease to the SI ports every 3-4 months. Mud etc aren’t an issue as long as you follow this schedule.
Very good video
I am having trouble removing the main pivot bolt. I have tried tapping it lightly with a hammer but have had no luck. Any idea what I could do to remove it?
Dumb question but you took out the smaller bolt already right? If that is the case and it still won’t come out make sure you have loosened the bolt. I have had that happen where the shaft is stuck. Have the bolt about half way into the threads of the retaining nut/key and using an Allen key that is the same size, roughly an 8mm, place it on the bolt from the nut side. Use a hammer to knock it free. On reassembly make sure to grease the bolt shaft to prevent this the next time.
Is that a Specialized water bottle cage?
The infamy!😀
Haha I love that thing. Has been in like 5 different bikes so far
@@IslandBikeLife the best bottle cage ever!!
Well thought out and executed video with very clear info thanks!
Thanks for watching and the feedback
Is this the same process for a 2016 Sb5? Just to grease and service the si link and stanchions?
Yes exactly except on the older models it is easier as you can get both fittings without removing any bolts.
@@IslandBikeLife thanks for the info. So I don’t have to remove the shock or any bolts to service only the SI link? I wouldn’t be doing anything with the dog bone link etc.
@@RobGams If you just want to grease it no you won't. If you do want to fully remove it then you will have to remove the main pivot bolt but the shock can stay connected.
Do you have any advice how to remove the main pivot in an easy way? 3 out of 4 times the bolt is stucked inside the frame and I need to use a sledgehammer to carefully remove the bolt. Every time I reinstall the bolt, after greasing my Switch Infinity, I use some grease for the bold and clean off everything. But the bolt still stuck the next time I want to remove it.
Strange, I haven’t experienced that at all. If it is not sliding out you will have to use some force. Just be careful, a soft rubber mallet will do the trick.
@@IslandBikeLife Have you noticed any gap between the shock link where the lower linkage bolt goes through when installing this into the pivot on the frame? I have about 0.5mm (0.25MM per side) gap between bearings and frame. When I tighten the lower linkage bolt to 15nm the bearings start to bind. It seems as though it needs a shim?
Craig Anderson if I am understanding you correctly I haven’t noticed that at all. There is not any shim or spacer that should be at that location. I am not sure what exactly might be causing that for you.
Same here, can you show me how do you proceed with your hammer ?
Thanks!
I too am stuck at trying to remove the main pivot bolt
Do you use alcohol, brake pads cleaner or any cleaning, degreesing fluid?
Basically cleaners for the most part. Nothing harsh at all and most often just water will do the job. My go to is Muc Off cleaner. Works well for everything even when super diluted.
Good video thanks
Very good video well explained cheers buddy like step by step where no rush like other videos on UA-cam subscribe to you now 👍🇬🇧🚒
Do both sides of the infinity like spin?
I am not sure exactly what you mean by this? Both stanchions can rotate once it is unbolted.
Thanks
Where do you get that guide pin?
From my local shop. You can order direct from Yeti also. I am sure you could get a similar pin at a slightly lower cost from an auto parts store or something similar.
Thanks man.
Assuming the upper linkage should be torqued to 15nm also?? You skipped it
do you usually clamp the frame?
It isn’t really clamped. It is just balancing essentially. I wouldn’t feel comfortable really clamping down on the frame with any more force than I would use to pick it up.
@@IslandBikeLife thanks
dude you didn't even clean the bearing while you had everything out? also a better idea is to get some suspension cleaner and to spray out the infinity link, stanchions, seals, and everything before wiping down with a microfiber. this way you remove all of the grime and grit before wiping anything.
How do you clean it?
Great bike , rides smooth ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing .
Now I know why this bike is so expensive 😅
He forgot to repack the switch bearings, which is essential when servicing the infinity link.
Remove the black circular rings around the pivot bolt and pack the bearings with molybdenum (lithium base) grease.
Both Yeti and Fox do not recommend this. When the link is off rotation the bearings is sufficient. The bearings themselves nor the sealed facings should be removed.
Your not cleaning your while servicing bro.
Whats the point of this vid when you blocked the most important thing you want to watch in the first place?
What’s the point of this comment when you don’t explain the thing that you missed seeing?
clamp your stand on the dropper, not your frame ya joey
It’s balancing, not clamped, ya Joey.
What a pain in the ass
After replacing my seat stay bearings one inner race seems to stick through slightly further than the other. Is this something to worry about?
Where did you get the guide pins?