That suggestion of making the spring guide aligned fixed the bolt push issue I had with an upgraded DE M324/M50, and all along I thought it was to do with the 45 degree sear/piston being a pain. Fantastic!
Hi! You are the FIRST person I've ever heard make note of the fact that the spring stopper needs to be TIGHT within it's opening. The tip with the soda-can top was great! This is the kind of "shade-tree engineering" vid that HELPS people, compared to those that just show people installing parts they got for free and don't even know what their specs are or how each affects the overall performance. I have an M24 Snow Wolf, so a different rifle than yours, but some of the tips and the overall sense of inate engineering-insight you bring to each of the minor flaws is just superb. Great vid, thanks for sharing!! Cheers!!
hello congratulations for the video, but in the first part I do not understand why you put the insulating tape in the shorter thickness of the piston, it should not touch the cylinder as it has a smaller diameter ...
Legend, just fixed my annoying vsr that I lend to my friends so they can try sniping. Just recently the bolt wouldn't go forward without a stomach turning scrape but it's as smooth as butter now
What sort of fps are you running ? My cyma cylinder is broke. Where the bolt joins cylinder, a action army or such is abit expensive, would a stock vsr cylinder hold up go much power before wearing?
Go on evike.com and try the matrix cylinder or airsoft gi and try the cheapest one there. I would recommend trying to get a used one on the app Hop Up though
Hi,I have a question,a put a new trigger unit, piston,spring and spring guide to my VSR-10 i can pull the bolt back, but i cannot push it forward only way to get it forward is to fire but it all smashes and i dont want that,I dont know what the problem is.The piston seems to be fine it can slide freely in the cylinder and spring guide too.I hope you will understand what I wanted to ask.
Hi, Do you have a 45* trigger unit or 90*? If it is 90* you might have to loosen the front screw that holds the trigger unit to the receiver and losen the screws just a tiny bit on the unit. Make sure the trigger sear isn't too long, and make sure everything is compatible! If it is a 45* sear, make sure the piston is also 45*. Have a look down the cylinder when the trigger unit is on, take the barrel off and everything out of the cylinder, look down the cylinder and see if the spring guide stopper is centred, it may well not be... this could also be the case on the 90* set. if it is too high you will need to add small shimmings between the notch of the spring guide stopper and the trigger unit (like at 7:05) and repeat adding more shimmings (small cuts of paper folded up) between them until it is smooth! hope it helps my friend! Please get back to me and tell me how it goes!
Hi, It is 45 trigger unit.Cylinder is also 45. Spring guide stoper is centred if i am right. I found someone in my area who is repairing, upgrading airsoft guns.Maybe is something with cylinder . Thanks for fast respond.
hi, when I pull/push the bolt, I can feel the metal scratching. When the bolt is pulled, the spring guide should approaching the piston in front while the piston isn't moving in the cylinder. I guess the metal scratching is from the spring guide with the cylinder. My spring guide is Action Army one, it has a ball bearing and it doesn't look bent. Is that anyway to solve this problem? Or the metal scratching is come from other parts? Thx a lot.
Hi mate, Watch from 2:00 and follow the steps closely, make sure there is no wiggle from the spring guide stopper and test how thick the shimmings are that you need between the handle of the sgs and trigger housing (that is important) at 7:15. this should solve your problem! hope it helps!
What type of cylinder do you have? I got the same upgrade kit as you have from pps. It is very hard to push the bolt forwards I think it scratches inside the cylinder. I have the sniper, MB03. What should I do? Sand the piston down or get a new cylinder?
Everything in here is stock apart from the small upgrade kit and the sears, watch video and mainly focus on the spring guide stopper being centred and straight. Add shimmings between the sgs and the trigger mechanism housing between the latch (nub) and the socket in which it fits into! hope it helps!
I think the cylinder is the problem. As you metioned your piston has to move smoothly inside the cylinder with mine really doesnt... You suggested to bend the cylinder abit. Also I think the Mb03 cylinder is slightly smaller than any other VSR cylinder. Did you sand any of your inner cylinder upgrading parts?
the MBO3 cylinder does have a slightly smaller inner diameter to most others, but please don't sand the cylinder, unless you have some incredibly fine sand paper after sanding. I would sand the piston down a little, use a sharpie to colour the outside of the piston and sand it down until the colour is gone, and repeat until it slides smoothly without wobbling around! hope it helps!
no they are from pps, if you get the cheap ones they are usually ok, if you take care of them and don't use anything that isn't the piston or spring guide. I had to do a bit of sanding and did have to make the hole inside of the piston a bit bigger for it to be smooth. Hope it helps!
I’m having an issue on a second hand vsr g spec when I pull the bolt back it’s quite tough and the scraping noise is there along when pushing it forward , looking form the underside there’s a fair bit of play when cocking it back . Bit worried about fiddling with it, is this what I have to do
For the scraping noise check your screw holding the trigger box in. It may be too long and is scraping the cylinder, if so then just take the screw out and sand it down. It is a very easy fix. 1- take off the body. 2- take off the trigger guard. 3- Take out the furthest screw to the back of the gun on the trigger box. 4- file or sand the screw down and reassemble.
nice video , but i need some help ,, when i Pull the trigger nothing is happen ,i Have to take off the entire trigger box for it to fire and release the spring tension. I have even gone as far as to remove the spring from under the first sear, and still won't fire. Almost like there's not any downward pressure in 1st sear to make the mechanism drop for it to release the piston
it could be that your piston and 2nd trigger sear are catching, look for any signs of wear particularly deep scratches on either the piston (where it catches the piston sear) or the actual sear its self, try adding some silicone oil on the sear. also check that the top screws on the trigger unit are not done too tight (the ones that hold it together) and make sure the trigger sears can move freely. hop it helps!
Dont want to disagree mate but Slilican lubricant should not in anyway be used for metal to metal contact molyslip or any good engine oil should be used.
That suggestion of making the spring guide aligned fixed the bolt push issue I had with an upgraded DE M324/M50, and all along I thought it was to do with the 45 degree sear/piston being a pain.
Fantastic!
Hi! You are the FIRST person I've ever heard make note of the fact that the spring stopper needs to be TIGHT within it's opening. The tip with the soda-can top was great! This is the kind of "shade-tree engineering" vid that HELPS people, compared to those that just show people installing parts they got for free and don't even know what their specs are or how each affects the overall performance. I have an M24 Snow Wolf, so a different rifle than yours, but some of the tips and the overall sense of inate engineering-insight you bring to each of the minor flaws is just superb. Great vid, thanks for sharing!! Cheers!!
Dude the spring guide fix solved my issue, thanks so much.
Great guide, the tip to centre the guide stopper fixed my stiff to return bolt. Thanks!
hello congratulations for the video, but in the first part I do not understand why you put the insulating tape in the shorter thickness of the piston, it should not touch the cylinder as it has a smaller diameter ...
Legend, just fixed my annoying vsr that I lend to my friends so they can try sniping. Just recently the bolt wouldn't go forward without a stomach turning scrape but it's as smooth as butter now
Video guida molto interessante, cercherò di mettere in pratica i tuoi consigli, grazie.
Hello, what dimensions (length - diameter) have the cylinder, the spring and the piston? Tks.
Hello friend ! You use spring guide stopper by SHS or stock ?
What spring you use ?? Is that stock trigger box of vsr10?
What is the size of the bearings? Nice video thanks
What sort of fps are you running ? My cyma cylinder is broke. Where the bolt joins cylinder, a action army or such is abit expensive, would a stock vsr cylinder hold up go much power before wearing?
Go on evike.com and try the matrix cylinder or airsoft gi and try the cheapest one there.
I would recommend trying to get a used one on the app Hop Up though
Hi,I have a question,a put a new trigger unit, piston,spring and spring guide to my VSR-10 i can pull the bolt back, but i cannot push it forward only way to get it forward is to fire but it all smashes and i dont want that,I dont know what the problem is.The piston seems to be fine it can slide freely in the cylinder and spring guide too.I hope you will understand what I wanted to ask.
Hi,
Do you have a 45* trigger unit or 90*?
If it is 90* you might have to loosen the front screw that holds the trigger unit to the receiver and losen the screws just a tiny bit on the unit. Make sure the trigger sear isn't too long, and make sure everything is compatible!
If it is a 45* sear, make sure the piston is also 45*. Have a look down the cylinder when the trigger unit is on, take the barrel off and everything out of the cylinder, look down the cylinder and see if the spring guide stopper is centred, it may well not be... this could also be the case on the 90* set. if it is too high you will need to add small shimmings between the notch of the spring guide stopper and the trigger unit (like at 7:05) and repeat adding more shimmings (small cuts of paper folded up) between them until it is smooth!
hope it helps my friend! Please get back to me and tell me how it goes!
Hi,
It is 45 trigger unit.Cylinder is also 45. Spring guide stoper is centred if i am right. I found someone in my area who is repairing, upgrading airsoft guns.Maybe is something with cylinder . Thanks for fast respond.
Hi is the 90° 2nd sear can be swap into stock 45° triggerbox
What?
Would the stoc aluminium cilinder survive an action army piston with an M180 spring ?
nope
Some time ye
hi,
when I pull/push the bolt, I can feel the metal scratching. When the bolt is pulled, the spring guide should approaching the piston in front while the piston isn't moving in the cylinder. I guess the metal scratching is from the spring guide with the cylinder. My spring guide is Action Army one, it has a ball bearing and it doesn't look bent. Is that anyway to solve this problem? Or the metal scratching is come from other parts? Thx a lot.
Hi mate,
Watch from 2:00 and follow the steps closely, make sure there is no wiggle from the spring guide stopper and test how thick the shimmings are that you need between the handle of the sgs and trigger housing (that is important) at 7:15. this should solve your problem!
hope it helps!
thx a lot
Can you please explain in detail how to stop sprig guide stopper sear from wiggling. Thank you.
What type of cylinder do you have? I got the same upgrade kit as you have from pps. It is very hard to push the bolt forwards I think it scratches inside the cylinder. I have the sniper, MB03. What should I do? Sand the piston down or get a new cylinder?
Everything in here is stock apart from the small upgrade kit and the sears, watch video and mainly focus on the spring guide stopper being centred and straight. Add shimmings between the sgs and the trigger mechanism housing between the latch (nub) and the socket in which it fits into!
hope it helps!
I think the cylinder is the problem. As you metioned your piston has to move smoothly inside the cylinder with mine really doesnt... You suggested to bend the cylinder abit. Also I think the Mb03 cylinder is slightly smaller than any other VSR cylinder. Did you sand any of your inner cylinder upgrading parts?
the MBO3 cylinder does have a slightly smaller inner diameter to most others, but please don't sand the cylinder, unless you have some incredibly fine sand paper after sanding. I would sand the piston down a little, use a sharpie to colour the outside of the piston and sand it down until the colour is gone, and repeat until it slides smoothly without wobbling around!
hope it helps!
Try like 2000grit sandpaper
Is your piston and spring guide from laylax?
no they are from pps, if you get the cheap ones they are usually ok, if you take care of them and don't use anything that isn't the piston or spring guide. I had to do a bit of sanding and did have to make the hole inside of the piston a bit bigger for it to be smooth.
Hope it helps!
thx m8
I’m having an issue on a second hand vsr g spec when I pull the bolt back it’s quite tough and the scraping noise is there along when pushing it forward , looking form the underside there’s a fair bit of play when cocking it back . Bit worried about fiddling with it, is this what I have to do
For the scraping noise check your screw holding the trigger box in. It may be too long and is scraping the cylinder, if so then just take the screw out and sand it down. It is a very easy fix. 1- take off the body. 2- take off the trigger guard. 3- Take out the furthest screw to the back of the gun on the trigger box. 4- file or sand the screw down and reassemble.
nice video , but i need some help ,, when i Pull the trigger nothing is happen ,i Have to take off the entire trigger box for it to fire and release the spring tension.
I have even gone as far as to remove the spring from under the first sear, and still won't fire. Almost like there's not any downward pressure in 1st sear to make the mechanism drop for it to release the piston
please can you tell me your trigger setup and what piston it is?
it could be that your piston and 2nd trigger sear are catching, look for any signs of wear particularly deep scratches on either the piston (where it catches the piston sear) or the actual sear its self, try adding some silicone oil on the sear.
also check that the top screws on the trigger unit are not done too tight (the ones that hold it together) and make sure the trigger sears can move freely.
hop it helps!
metal rubbing metal, yea we don't want that, but is metal rubbing electrical tape better?won't it be harder to push or sth?
It will be a little stiff to pull but better than metal on metal
Is thiss all aplicable if you're using Edgi/noverich kit/parts?
yes it should be! please give feed back once you are done!
Is that stock cylinder
Yep
Aldi
Dont want to disagree mate but Slilican lubricant should not in anyway be used for metal to metal contact molyslip or any good engine oil should be used.
Is it good for o Rings though???
I this PTFE grease would be the best
@@siliconesword1798 PTFE grease is good for metal on metal, silicon oil is best for compression parts
Which would be great except that anything petroleum based will damage the piston ring.
@@rogerborg Late to the party but, just use Lithium grease. Great for metal on metal and wont corrode the o-rings