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before you start getting hate comments about sanding cast iron pans I wanted to say it turned out great, I do the same thing to my newer cast iron, I just don't like the texture of the pans, people just don't understand the older pans were smooth and lighter because the factores use to grind them smooth, they say they stopped doing it to help hold the seasoning on the pans but let's face it, they did it to cut cost in production, great job
@@andrewmcallister4151 Actually smoothing it just gives more surface contact for it to stick more, I mean ya if it's ridiculously ruff then ya knock it down but I think if its a bit rough, then when you season it all the low spots will fill up to the tops of the high spot with seasoning. it will keep the seasoning intact longer. Smooth it all just sits on top easy for the spatula to just scrape it off. just my opinion
This is a good video, thanks. I remember when Lodge sold GOOD products and not just their name. They actually machined the inside of their cookware and seasoning was a breeze. The new stuff is so rough, it takes for EVER to get a good layer of season to smooth it out. IF ever. I've been at this a long time. Learned to nurture cast iron from mom and her mom, who used to cook on cast for 14 people a day, three times a day, every day (on the farm) because it's all they had all those years ago and also from my time in the family restaurant and others where I worked. Here's a tip or two... If you don't want to use (or don't have) a grill, coat your cast iron with grape seed or peanut oil (high temp oils) and set your oven on 450 and let it go for two hours MINIMUM, then shut it off and let cool down WITHOUT opening the door until it's completely cooled. There will only be a bunch of smoke in the kitchen if you use too much oil or fat!! It only takes a very thin layer... And several of them. At least two for a brand new pan, preferably three if you can work it in when you start cooking. Then, do it one more time. LOL After the grapeseed/peanut oil sesons... The BEST seasoning is with rendered beef lard, (tallow), which is pure, thin and really melds into the pores. VERY thin coats of rendered fat won't smoke up the house and give an even, slick finish. When you cook steaks or burgers, etc. in your pan, after removing the food, get it HOT. If there is some sticky bits, use up to a teaspoon of SALT as an abrasive and scrub around with a WOODEN spatula/spoon, etc. and it won't take much scrubbing. Then just hit it with a quick spray of cold tap water and BAM!!! Your pan is clean. If you got all the sticky stuff clean with the salt scrub, that'll be it. And the salt won't remove or ruin the fresh seasoning job you just did. Then, just dry it with a towel or put on a warm burner for a bit and get it good and dry. What actually happens with a very well seasoned pan is that the natural polymers in the fats and oils will convert to a natural "plastic" type material. This is going to continue to build, layer after layer, until the bottom of the pan feels like a slick plastic instead of anything metal. It's pretty neat, actually. It's that natural polymer that makes it a truly non-stick pan. Once the pan has a few good layers of seasoning, you can wash it in the sink with as much hot, soapy water as you want. But you really won't need to... Once you get that slick, plastic type coating going, just add a little cooking oil be some butter, most of the time, after your bacon and eggs or a steak, it just wipes right out with a paper towel. I don't even wash it. There's nothing LEFT to wash and what residue is left behind just adds another layer of season. Especially if you fry a steak or some burgers or bacon. Other than a screaming infrared grill (that's what they use at a steak house) a really hot cast pan works best on a steak. The secret to a great steak is to finish it in the oven or indirect, high heat. Just sear your seasoned, room-temp steak on the first side for a couple of minutes, no more than three, then flip it and almost immediately transfer the pan into a 350 degree oven for a few minutes, depending on the thickness of the steak. Five minutes is good for a nice, thick rib eye or Porterhouse for med-rare. Less for thinner steaks, longer for more done, etc. You'll get the feel of it fast enough. Then you'll have a steakhouse-like steak and life is good! To finish, I'll de-glaze the hot pan with an ounce or two of red wine or balsamic vinegar (not so much vinegar), scrubbing up the sticky bits, throw in some sliced baby Portabella mushrooms, a good pat of butter and stir on med-high heat until it reduces, then pour that over top of your steak (which should be resting on a warm steak plate *grin*) and you can't tell it wasn't made at the best steakhouse in town. Use some Maitre'd butter (butter with herbs in it) for better results. Oh, and while you're making your sauce in the hot, cast pan, let a pat of that butter melt over your resting steak, as well. Umm.. ya. I know what I'm having for dinner tonight! LOL
I appreciate your thoughtfulness on the value of doing this! 5 years ago the older pan would have been better for me since I didn’t have the tools and I could find the old stuff. Today I have the tools and can’t find the old stuff! So the value has flipped for me! Great informative video. Thank you!
You're absolutely spot on. If you find an authentic old cast iron skillet at a flea market or yard sale, the old ones will be slick smooth on the bottom, and it makes a world of difference. Not only will your food cook better, you can handle it with a spatula and not leave food in the rough texture of the cast iron. Thanks for posting this. Regardless of how you like your surface finish, cast iron is healthier than eating chemical residue from Tefflon/non-stick cookware.
Very good info. I did this last year to a new lodge skillet that my wife bought for us. It cooked as good as some of my Mothers iron that I inherited ( she got them from her Mother ) and that was just the first seasoning ( I fried eggs as a comparison ). Now after a year of use an egg slides around on it like Teflon. Yes indeed, if you have the tools, or money enough to get them, or borrow them, this technique really works well. Thanks for the vid Bud.
Not hating so please don't take it like that. Overall your process is sound. As a professional metal buffer (Truck alum) you need to completely take the surface to the grit your working with before going to a finer grit. Anything you leave like pits, bumps or grinding marks will show and will be 10 times as hard to remove with a finer grit.
I think I'll just use mine frequently and let the seasoning build up it's own. I've heard people say that it's not good to grind it down because it blocks all the pores and doesn't absorb oil like it should. Just going to use mine as is. Haven't had any issues with it, but I'm also not trying to use it like a Teflon pan either. It's a great product, and appreciate that it's made in the USA!
yes , that is what i am talking about....good job... the pan looks good !.......my dad suggested i do this years ago , but i never got around to it....he showed me some of his old wagner , and other old pans , they were smooth as glass on the cooking surface , and weighed about half as much as the lodge.......i have aquired a lot of the new lodge cast iron cookware over the last few years and i think i will give them the ( backwoods gourmet ) treatment......i just came across your channel yesterday , so i have a lot of watching to do........thanks , allen.
Liked the video especially your advice at the end. $15 pan, $350 in tools:) I have a lightly used 12" Lodge-really rough. I hand sanded it for a few minutes with 100 then 220 grit-that's all I had on hand. That did seem to remove the high points and I wasn't trying to remove the pits from casting. I'm going to season it in the oven with grape seed oil using the Field Company instructions. Wish me luck.
I had a rusty pan that had been neglected by me (had forgotten it was under the sink for several years lol) and I took a cheap angle grinder with a wire brush to it. Got it way better than it ever had been just with maybe ten minutes of that. I agree it ain't gotta be perfectly smooth, just an improvement over how it comes. Don't need a full machine shop to get something that'll work like it should.
@@takla3210 It worked very well. All I did is remove the high spots(those that tend to grab) and left the rest of the seasoning on. I've since found that all I really needed to do was to lightly sand and do a stove top seasoning which saved a LOT of time and gas! It worked great after that.
My old (inherited) WagnerWare are very smooth ... my new Lodges are not. I thought about doing what you did w/ the Lodges ... thanks for the info ... but I'm a procrastinator. So my solution was Stainless Steel Spatulars and 4-5yrs of cooking and scrapping. You are so right, cast iron is soft ... and SS is harder. They are getting smoother by the day ... may take a few more years though ... I like your pan ... Good Job!!!
I have a bunch of lodge stuff and the only one i REALLY think need polished are the griddle i use for pancakes and stuffn and the wok. Id like those two to be smoother. Everything else seems to work fine with good amount of seasoning.
I enjoy you video's I do a bit of camp cooking this one is good for a northern favorite. Cranberry Chicken 2 lbs. chicken breasts 1 can cranberry sauce 1 cup A Salad Dressing(French is good, Italian is good, Russian is good) 1/2 package Onion soup mix 1 Tbsp corn starch Place ingredients in a baking dish and bake at 350 for 1 hour Serve over rice I cook this in a camp dutch oven
You confirmed what I'd suspected I'd have to do to get the classic cast iron finish that the old pans are so well-known for. I've seen some people on UA-cam go over their pans with sandpaper, but I never thought they looked smooth enough and using seasoning to make up for a rough finish just doesn't give the same results. I never did like the factory finish on the Lodge I bought new a few years ago. Gotta try this now. Thanks for the great video.
All those saying that the lodge will "smooth out" with use has clearly never used one for a length of time, or not used a new one. The new ones are SOOOO gritty compared to the old stuff. NOTHING is like the old Wagnerware, Griswold, Butterpat, or even Ausion. (Yes I know the latter is a steel pan) My current wagner #9 from the 40's is like a glass surface. Things will literally slide off of it because it's so smooth. I took it down to metal and reseasoned it and it's SOOO much better than my 15 year old Lodge pan ever was. I put two new ones on the stove and put the lodge up in the cabinet.
c allen so sand your lodge and reseason it. I bought my Lodge 20 years ago and sanded it smooth about 15 years ago. Cooks right alongside my grannies 80 year old Wagner ware
FINALLY! Thank you Sir. Someone who understands how cast iron is supposed to be. The manufacturers used to produce a superior product but have become too cheap and lazy and would prefer to sell an inferior product. Thankfully, I inherited my grandmothers' 100 yr. old pans.
Thanks a million! I was wondering how to smooth out the bottom of a new dutch oven. Your method was what I had in mind, but I was unsure of disc type and grit!.
Do you wipe out excess oil before putting in the grill or no? My lodge is not as shiny but I was shown to wipe out excess oil before putting in the stove. Thanks
I strip and polish all my new Lodge. I’ve found that the flap discs dig in a bit to much because the abrasive is so much harder than the iron. What works better for me is a steel wire wheel. Get the twisted strand kind with the thick wires and it works great. Eye and ear protection! A flying broken wire can really hurt.
I use the same method, wire wheels work very well, if used with appropriate safety protection. They are excellent in the bends and corners. They don't gum up when cleaning down old pans to refinish them.
Back in the day the factories shined up their castings much the same way, grind, sand and file all that iron until it was smooth. Today they pop it out of the mold slap a label on it and ship it. I've done the same to new iron cookware, makes for a much better cooking and cleaning surface.
Very thorough instructions, that was great, thankyou much. And by the way I have two medium cast iron woks That I purchased and plan follow your video to smooth and season them to improve cooking quality.
I've used Lodge cast Iron products for years and I don't have any issues with food sticking, when I get done using my frying pan i just wash it with hot water and NO ''dish detergent'' while the pan is still hot then dry it and coat it with a thin film of olive oil and she is good to go for the next cooking, but thanks for taking the time to make this video !
Thats usually how I do it too. That or bacon grease. Then I let it season while I am cooking the next meal. I only do a formal seasoning if I do an extensive scrubbing and some of the seasoning comes off. Then I just oil it up and toss it in the fireplace once the fire is down to coals.
To each their own, however soap does not do any damage to CI. That used to be the case but dish soap is not lye based any more so it does no damage to the seasoning.
OK...here is the ingredients in dish washing liquid, water, sodium C14 olefin sulfonate, lauramine oxide, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium chloride, sodium xylenesulfonate, fragrance, citric acid, DI-ppg-2, myreth-10 adipate, styrene/acrlates, copolymer, phenoxyerhanol. methylisorgiazolinone, yellow 5 and red 33.....I will stick with just using hot water on a hot cast iron frying pan but thanks for your input !
If I wanted an ingredient list I would go look at my bottle. All I know is I wash wish Dawn and hot water, and because of how well seasoned the piece is all it does is remove oils and flavor from what I cooked. And the water and everything just comes right off like a well waxed paint job. But like I said, to each their own.
@@jyou5072 it's not about soap doing damage to cast iron which I assume is what you meant by "ci". Soap removes all the oils present on the cast iron surface. Then the metal dries and immediately begins to oxidize which leaves a rusted surface. The only way I know of to prevent the oxidation is to soak it in oil immediately causing a barrier between the iron and oxygen.
This is the final manufacturing step that most cast iron manufacturers don't do. They leave it to the customer. I think I would just do the bottom surface of the pan sinces that's where most of the cooking occurs. I don't have your patience or the artistic ability to do the sides. I have a flat cast iron griddle that I did this on. It's a major improvement. After seasoning, it's a much better non-stick surface than anything on the market.
The rough surface on sand cast Lodge pan consists of peaks and valleys. If you don't have the time and equipment to remove that much metal just get off the sharp peaks and let the valleys fill in with seasoning. In time a metal spatula will glide across the surface much like a machined pan. I have a well conditioned Lodge pan that comes very close to performing like my Stargazer.
Found some rudely cast pans at recycle. Pretty much took the same approach and worked out well. Thanks for confirming and encourage folk to search recycle
I used the Avanti Pro Quick strip disc, for use with a drill. It gets into the edges as well as the walls and bottom. I sanded a lodge wok into a glass like finish.
Thanks for making a great video! After finding antique Griswold and Wagner pans in antique shops I realized why my Lodge pans were so hard to use. I have basically done the same thing you did to 12" and a 10" lodge skillets except I removed ALL of the pits from the bottom of the pans and did not polish the sides because I didn't think it was necessary. I don't see any need to go through the extensive "seasoning" process you did because if the pan surface is super smooth and you are using a good fat it will be totally non-stick. "Seasoning" is just the process of filling in the porous holes in the surface of the metal until it becomes smooth. No porous holes = no need for seasoning. I just grind/polish the bottom of the pan down to a mirror, wash it with hot water and soap, throw it on the stove, heat it up until it is good and dry, put a hunk of bacon fat in it and start cooking. Totally non-stick and if necessary I can wash them with soap and water because there is no "seasoning" to wash off. If I do need to wash a pan, just a coating of bacon fat is all that is needed after drying it off. I can take a Lodge skillet from the box to the stovetop in an hour. I have been using these pans for a couple of years and they have performed flawlessly. I have also polished a bunch for relatives and friends and they love them too.
Good video. I have one Lodge skillet where the finish is so rough that it tears up wooden utensils. I look for old cast iron at flea markets and yard sales and currently have over 50 pieces.
If you didn't grind it out how long would it take to get the new lodge pan to a nice state of use? It looks like it'd take a pretty long time given how pitted the casting is brand new.
The entire process only takes 1/2 hour. If you don't do this is will take you about 8-12 months of regular use to build up enough seasoning to make it smooth.
Shane Singleton Spend a weekend seasoning your pan. Use a good oil with a high smoke temp, coat it liberally inside and out and put it in your oven at 375 for 1 hour. Cool and repeat until you get it how you want it.
@@rickdavis2235 Thank ya, sir. HAven't purchased one yet. Just doing some pre-purchase research. Also probably going to be picking up at least 1-2 from my mom as she has many. some of which were my grandmother's
@@Shane-Singleton Contrary to what the poster above claims, you don't want a nice thick oil coat. You want as thin a coat as possible & to build up many such thin coats over time. Thick oil coats work somewhat but are prone to having pieces of seasoning flake off. Thin coats don't seem to have this problem.
Thanks so much for clearing up some confusion for us. My husband took the grinder to our Lodge skillet at the shop where he works. Glad I decided to use grape seed oil, like you recommended. We seasoned in our indoor oven, which took three times in the "recommended" temp of 325. Might have been better at a higher temp like you recommended. Who knew? Thanks for all your info!
There is no question about the fact that smooth pans out-perform rough pans. Rough pans will eventually work just fine after about 6 months of regular use and sticking to almost everything.
From reading (too many) discussions around the web, it seems that there is a RIGHT degree of smoothness. Too smooth ("mirror") and the seasoning won't hold right, too rough ("as cast") and no amount of seasoning will stop food sticking (unless you cook at low temps with gallons 'o oil)
Lightly run a fine wool pad over your skillet in between seasonings to give the new coat something to adhere to. Allows it to build up a nice thick layer of seasoning but also super slick.
To be honest...these new Lodge pans are pretty nonstick right off the shelf. Remove the sticker, wash & dry the pan, heat, oil, cook...an egg wont stick unless you're inexperienced at cooking eggs. It. At not slide around like on an ice rink, but it wont stick.
Don't stress too much on the pits left on the bottom. I picked up a used Lodge 14" pan. After removing the seasoning I found a 3/32 void in the bottom. Digging around in it to see how deep it was, I actually dug deep enough to make an .045 through hole. I could see light through it. After a couple seasonings, it filled and and just looks like a black spot. It doesn't leak and it's flush with the cooking surface. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I collect and use cast iron all the time. Some of my favorite pieces are well over 100 years old. I've probably seasoned 1000 pieces of iron. Yet I've never done it on my Weber. Why? BECAUSE I'M A FRIGGIN MORON I GUESS! It just never occurred to me. Thank's now I've got a new excuse to hang around outside around my grill and drink beer! My Weber won't stay lit without constant tending with a beer in my hand. It didn't say anything about that in the instructions... but it's true.
Greetings sir! I wasn’t surprised when I came across your video. After numerous seasonings I too wound up refinishing my 10” Lodge. I remember as a child, the pan we had, had a machined cooking surface and eggs slid like a dream. I think I’ll do some more refinishing on it since I didn’t remove as much pits as you did Question though…having gone through the effort of grinding it…how necessary would you say it was? I mean, was it worth it? Please rsvp…preciate it! God bless and Happy New Year!
Just bought that exact same Lodge pan on Amazon. Is it really necessary to go through this procedure before cooking in the pan. I have another century old pan that I am sure that this procedure was not done and it cooks just great. We do oil the pans after cooking and cleaning. Great video and very interesting.
As we explained in the video, Lodge USED to do this at the factory. They stopped in the 70's when they started their factory seasoning. This was to save them money on returned rusted pans and to cut cost, not to make them work better.
If you are patient, your new lodge will eventually smooth itself out through use. Depending on how much you cook with it, it might take a year of regular cooking to get it glass smooth. My dutch ovens never et that smooth because they are only used once every several weeks but my fry pans have been mirror smooth for a long time.
To continue the comparison, I think you should buy another new pan pre seasoned and do nothing to it a cook eggs on both. Who is the winner? I think people would assume the sanded one, but I’d like to know before I go to all the trouble. Does smoother really equate to better non stick?
Home run, I'm impressed how well that skillet took seasoning. BTW, you just created the best of both worlds, a new skillet with thicker walls, yet having the polish, seasoning, and performance of the classics.
I am so grateful I found this channel. First I did you're squirrel recipe with my boys after their first hunt...the BOMB! Never squirrel could taste that good & be that tender...but then...I found this video. I've used cast iron for years...I've become so frustrated with the new ones as they're quality of smoothness was so inferior to that of my old ones but somehow I got the impression doing something like this was sacrilege...a cardinal sin of sorts...well buddy, I got the tools, I got me the skillets & me'z gonna go to town! Thanks for posting this and showing me how to make my CI even better! BIG THUMBS U!!
I have the tools but no Weber grill, can I just use the oven? I got a Lodge a few years ago and just went straight into seasoning it 6 times, but it still won't let an egg slide around.
Great job smoothing out that Lodge surface. It looks like glass. I must be doing something wrong, cuz my new 12 inch pan has that same new texture but I scramble eggs every Saturday morning and they don't stick. I don't see and added value in grinding out the surface.
It’s the reason you can buy the pans so cheaply! It’s just a cast pan, there are other cast iron pans on the market that come polished only they cost about 5x more. If you were to ever bake a cake or cornbread in your cast iron you would want it like glass, they pop right out of the pan then. Unlike an unpolished pan
@@xanthopoulos1825 I disagree, I bake in my modern unmodified lodge all the time and have absolutely no issues with sticking. The smooth surface is a personal preference but not necessary.
I sanded my new lodge 12” pan. I do not have a charcoal grill but seasoned mine in a 450-475 oven for an 1 1/2 hours and then let it remain in the oven until cool . I used grapeseed oil after a the pan was warm. I used super thin coats and repeated this entire process at least 5 times. I used it for the first time today with plenty of oil for potatoes, sausage, ham cubes, and eggs for a breakfast skillet meal. A lot of the seasoning came off the pan. This has happened twice now. The first time I took it down to bare metal and started over. What is going wrong? Is it the acidic properties of the ham on a fresh seasoning?
My job requires me to bring bare metal to mirror finish. Your approach was brutal as hell but I’m gonna do mine. I won’t worry about the sides because I rarely get stuff sticking to sides. Thanks
How old do think the antique skillet is? I have one marked exactly the same on the bottom. It was completely rusted from flood waters. I sanded it down, then scrubbed it silly with SOS pads, soap and all. It was silver, so I heated it really hot and wiped it down. The first time I used it, I fried chicken in it so that the inside would be covered in hot peanut oil. Nothing stuck, and the whole thing is a beautiful, almost jet black color.
The purpose of seasoning a pan is to give you a smooth surface, which results in a more "nonstick" surface in the end. The texture in the bottom of the pan is meant to hold the seasoning. Your basically just speeding up the process by grinding it smooth, so you dont have to season it 100 times to get a decent pan. Honestly, i only ever grind pans if something drastic happens or they rust.
Will the self cleaning option not do the same? I’ve sanded an Old Mountain but don’t wanna try on my Lodges just yet. My go to seasoning is frying bacon then doing country potatoes in that same grease. After that they roll fried eggs like mad. But me and my kiddo like scrambled with milk and cheese. The pan I do that in was made out of love. Lots of cooking in it before I could even think of scrambling lok
I just got the 15” skillet, didn’t need to do any sanding. Not necessary, seasoned it a couple times and works great. It’s like trying to reinvent the wheel or toothbrush. ✌🏽
Excellent presentation Backwoods...was finally 'bout endeavor into something Wifey has been asking me to do for past 8yrs maybe more: Refinishing our skillets (Primariy the newer ones which were not sanded smooth prior to seasoning). Major thanks Sir to you and your instructional video because without trial and error, you provided me the precise sanding specs info that i needed to know, and to be honest, major contributing factor for the delay with respect to refinishing. Im now actually looking forward to doing this, Hi Ho Hi Ho, its off to Home-Depot I go!!
Just learn to properly heat and season cast iron as it comes from the factory. I never have a problem with my cast iron sticking. The rough surface of the cast iron help the seasoning stick and less of it will be scraped off because of the low spots. It is a shame that people resort to sanding cast iron smooth because they think it makes it more "non-stick".
I agree Todd. One hour in a preheated oven @ 300 deg with a thin coating of crisco or canola oil. Then cook with oil & enjoy it. It aint rocket science.
@@xanthopoulos1825 Crisco is proven to be perfectly fine for seasoning cast iron, in fact is probably the most common oil used among cast iron enthusiasts and users all around the world.
@jubjub247 there is literally no difference in how a smooth surface and a little more rough surface cooks the food. Proper seasoning will also help food not stick. And as far as flavor, not sure how you came up with that.
First off, let me say I have watched every one of your vids and appreciate each and every one. I am a cast iron collector of approx 25 pieces of Griswold and Wagner. Cook with CI frequently, or have more in the past. I use my Lodge dutch oven camping frequently. With that said, I have recently been introduced to carbon steel. The properties of carbon so very close to CI but with carbon possessing a few positive features over cast iron. Reason for writing this is basically to voice opinion of Lodge current business practice in mftg an undesirable product. I know of no one that has any basic working knowledge of cooking that desires a rough bottom skillet. Lodge used to make a smooth bottom pan but their business continues to grow and demand exceeds production (they just completed an additional mftg facility) so Lodge has determined they will no longer smooth the bottoms, but rather, quickly make a rough bottom skillet leaving new skillet owner to do the sanding if they want a smooth bottom. I find it misleading for Lodge to claim they leave bottoms rough to help hold the factor seasoning. Again, who wants a rough bottom? Who wants to purchase the new item leaving new owner to smooth skillet, spend time sanding, etc? Look at all the many sanding video's on YT proving Lodge making an undesirable product. With my new desire to purchase a couple of carbon steel skillets and wishing to buy American I purchased Lodge. Terribly rough bottom that keeps me wondering why I purchased when America's Test Kitchen reviews and Kent Rollins type video's stating Lodge was way down in quality. There are several brands that costs approx $15.00 more but arrive with a totally smooth finish. As one CI lover to another, I strongly urge you to try a carbon steel skillet.out of curiosity. Same cooking techniques, same seasoning techniques, same maintenance techniques. If you by chance do try a carbon skillet, please don't purchase a Lodge you will be so greatly disappointed. I now use my CI for baking some cornbread and a few other sporadic items in my kitchen but 95% of time I have switched to carbon with happier results. I now know why majority of professional chefs choose carbon steel.
I have heard a lot of negative comments on my channel about the Lodge Carbon steel products. Mostly concerning it warping. I will have to try it myself. Thanks for watching.
I like the smooth finish also. I might be wrong but you was trying to smooth the cast iron not grind out the pits, like others had said that’s the nature of cast iron in pouring it. I’m not sure why some of the viewers would think you needed to mess with trying to fill the pits? The seasoning will fill in the pits and you won’t even know it. You did a great job on showing us how to get that mirror like finish in a short time. God bless!
I just posted this on a Lodge video. I love Lodge. If I buy new it will probably be Lodge. But I, for myself, never buy new Lodge, since that pebbled surface came out. No! It is not the same! The couple of new pieces I have, I took a fine grit grind stone and knocked the most of the bumps off. Eventually any uneven spots will fill in, I hope. They cook ok, but there is no comparison between the old and the new Lodge. Would I be considered an expert? Probably not, but I've used cast iron for over 60 years, so I know my way around it pretty good. I still use my mother's, my grandmother's and my mother-in-law's every day. I buy the occasional piece of unrecognizable cast iron at yard sales when I can get them for a couple of bucks. Expensive or cheap, I love my cast iron. I nearly cried when I had to buy a new piece where I worked and tried to cook on it 😢
No thanks, I'll use any lodge off the shelf with same results as my old Griswold or Wagner pieces. Knowing how to use cast iron is how you'll get good results. No need for a glass smooth surface
Modern off-the-shelf cast iron skillets are garbage. The old ones were sold ground smooth. Without this kind of remedial work you can't even properly fry an egg in a modern pan, or flip it with a thin flexible spatula.
@@michaelshelnutt3534 the key is proper seasoning. Not just the lodge pre-seasoning. In addition to that, there has to be enough fats/oil used when cooking. I don't like my eggs frying in a bunch of oil, so I just use a small amount of canola spray. Another key is preheating the iron before oil, then eggs/other food. It's actually pretty easy. I have alot of new lodge pieces and would put em up against any of my old stuff. We use our new 12" skillet and new 10" chef skillet most often and never have issues with sticking. As far as seasoning I prefer a product I found called crisbee. It gives the best seasoning I've ever seen IMO. crisbee.org
@jubjub247 it does no worse smells or smoke than any other oils as long as you wipe it enough just like any other seasoning method. As far as scented versions go, they are all food grade scents. Same that you'll find in foods almost everywhere. It's not just some harsh chemical that you'd be in taking into your body. I find it laughable that you could even think to imply that it would be unhealthy to use Crisbee.
@jubjub247 definitely not a stock holder as their company is a small family business and I live thousands of miles away from them and came across their product online and gave it a try. Not doing damage control, just giving it straight how I see it with the results I get with their product. Carcinogens eh? You do realize that ALL the other oils you mentioned also release carcinogens don't you? And yes food grade scents, those and dyes are used is more foods than most people realize. So pretty much unless you eat strictly what you grow yourself, there are scents and dyes added to your food.
I'm wondering with the soft metal if I could use some cut off disc and take a 12" or so Lodge and make the bottom into a grate pan. Allowing to have its content to be flamed kiss on a grill or campfire. I am finding it almost impossible to find cast iron grates without it being coated in porcelain. :( Maybe you have some thoughts on this.
I have 2 identical lodge pans I bought 10 years apart. The old one has 15 years of seasoning and the new one has 5 years of seasoning. I smoothed out the newest pan as you have and it is a much better cooking pan.
I bought a new Lodge 10" skillet about 2 years ago, I am still learning tricks and tips on how to use it. But i season it everytime after i use it and some foods still stick pretty good. I have found that if i cook eggs on a higher temp then they dont stick nearly as bad. I just recently found that the food is even less likely to stick if the pan is smooth than rough. The video is awesome and I will have to try this with mine to see if it helps any.
Your food will be much less likely to stick if you allow your pan and oil to preheat properly. You'll want to start heating up the pan WITHOUT oil. Then when the pan is hot, add in the oil and wait for the oil to heat up. Then once the oil is nice and hot you can add your food. Following this procedure of proper pre-heating goes a long way toward preventing sticking. It's coincidentally why your eggs don't stick on high heat, because it brings it up to temp before they're done. You can get that same effect on medium or low so long as you preheat properly first.
@@iPodTouchNinja5 the lodge pans come with a rough finish and that doesn't help not sticking. I've tried turning my heat up and it kept sticking until I sanded the pan flat and reseasoned
40/80 grit with a powered device like a metabo could easily chew right through the entire pan. I use those types of sanders to remove mill scale off welded surfaces, it's extremely easy to punch through the metal itself. Try a much higher grit such as 120 or even 200-ish.
Good video. I also prefer smooth and have more CI than I need, but that's another topic. What I do is when I am warming up my BBQ gas grill, I pick a few pans that need a tune up, give a micro oil and stick them in the cold grill, close it up and crank it up til ready to cook. Pull them out, pile on heat proof table and cover with folded blanket to cool slowly. Pile so no cooking surfaces are touching anything. Will leave some in if I can cook on one side and let them cool down right in the grill when done. Really spiffs them up.
Dude how the heck did you get that pan to have a black patina so fast ?! Just by the grill?? I have a smithey cast iron for a year now and I swear I’m still working on keeping the season on and not flaking from every little meal I make. I put it in the oven for 45 mins with grape seed oil but it never looks like that? It looks silver copperish still ? Please are there any tips I can get ?
I just got a new Lodge pan like yours as a replacement for an older cracked one. Lodge sent it N/C, see my video. I have the tools and skills to polish mine but decided not to. A month of use later and it has naturally gotten as good as my 25 year old pan that cracked. At first it was a little tricky but got better with every use. Your method looks great and obviously works good but I would not discourage using the new pans as they come from Lodge.
Upside down dog, I agree. I got a Lodge a year ago, I use it as it came from the factory, and it works great, never had a problem with it sticking. I can't see putting all that effort into sanding.
My great grandfather cast his own cast iron cookware & they were / still are smoother than babies behind on the inside. he had a special tool he used on them while they were still hot - I wish they were still made the 'old' way
200 years from now. Here we have a classic antique Lodge skillet in excellent shape but someone ruined it by putting their name on the bottom. But wait....It’s the backwoods gourmet. That’s a real collector piece. Lol.
I also sand and polish my new ones.I do minimum seasoning of them because after I use them i scrub them with a steel sponge and add just a bit of hot oil. I don't know if this is the right method but it works for me.
Lodge intentionally leaves the surface rough on new pans because it's easier for them to preseason the pan in the factory. A pan with a polished, smooth surface is actually more difficult to season and doesn't readily accept the oil like a rough surface with tiny pores.
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Going to try this process on my wife.
Great video, this will be my next project.
before you start getting hate comments about sanding cast iron pans I wanted to say it turned out great, I do the same thing to my newer cast iron, I just don't like the texture of the pans, people just don't understand the older pans were smooth and lighter because the factores use to grind them smooth, they say they stopped doing it to help hold the seasoning on the pans but let's face it, they did it to cut cost in production, great job
actually, if your surface is smooth then it will definitely be much more non stick, it will also look a lot better to not have all the texture.
Yes. They sell pans by other companies that come sanded but the cost over $100!
I'd agree with that 100% coming from a foundrymen casting is costly compared to just punched out pans.
@@andrewmcallister4151 Actually smoothing it just gives more surface contact for it to stick more, I mean ya if it's ridiculously ruff then ya knock it down but I think if its a bit rough, then when you season it all the low spots will fill up to the tops of the high spot with seasoning. it will keep the seasoning intact longer. Smooth it all just sits on top easy for the spatula to just scrape it off. just my opinion
Mike Eddleman I grind mine down with a flap disc too. Even smoothed out,
They hold a good seasoning. The more you use it, the better it gets.
I got a #8 from my mom as a going away present when I was 18 and leaving the nest. I still have the pan. I'm 64 now.
aaaw, thats really sweet ☺️
And you can use it as a weapon if needed.
This is a good video, thanks. I remember when Lodge sold GOOD products and not just their name. They actually machined the inside of their cookware and seasoning was a breeze. The new stuff is so rough, it takes for EVER to get a good layer of season to smooth it out. IF ever. I've been at this a long time. Learned to nurture cast iron from mom and her mom, who used to cook on cast for 14 people a day, three times a day, every day (on the farm) because it's all they had all those years ago and also from my time in the family restaurant and others where I worked. Here's a tip or two...
If you don't want to use (or don't have) a grill, coat your cast iron with grape seed or peanut oil (high temp oils) and set your oven on 450 and let it go for two hours MINIMUM, then shut it off and let cool down WITHOUT opening the door until it's completely cooled. There will only be a bunch of smoke in the kitchen if you use too much oil or fat!! It only takes a very thin layer... And several of them. At least two for a brand new pan, preferably three if you can work it in when you start cooking.
Then, do it one more time. LOL After the grapeseed/peanut oil sesons... The BEST seasoning is with rendered beef lard, (tallow), which is pure, thin and really melds into the pores. VERY thin coats of rendered fat won't smoke up the house and give an even, slick finish.
When you cook steaks or burgers, etc. in your pan, after removing the food, get it HOT. If there is some sticky bits, use up to a teaspoon of SALT as an abrasive and scrub around with a WOODEN spatula/spoon, etc. and it won't take much scrubbing.
Then just hit it with a quick spray of cold tap water and BAM!!! Your pan is clean. If you got all the sticky stuff clean with the salt scrub, that'll be it. And the salt won't remove or ruin the fresh seasoning job you just did. Then, just dry it with a towel or put on a warm burner for a bit and get it good and dry.
What actually happens with a very well seasoned pan is that the natural polymers in the fats and oils will convert to a natural "plastic" type material. This is going to continue to build, layer after layer, until the bottom of the pan feels like a slick plastic instead of anything metal. It's pretty neat, actually. It's that natural polymer that makes it a truly non-stick pan.
Once the pan has a few good layers of seasoning, you can wash it in the sink with as much hot, soapy water as you want. But you really won't need to... Once you get that slick, plastic type coating going, just add a little cooking oil be some butter, most of the time, after your bacon and eggs or a steak, it just wipes right out with a paper towel. I don't even wash it. There's nothing LEFT to wash and what residue is left behind just adds another layer of season. Especially if you fry a steak or some burgers or bacon.
Other than a screaming infrared grill (that's what they use at a steak house) a really hot cast pan works best on a steak. The secret to a great steak is to finish it in the oven or indirect, high heat. Just sear your seasoned, room-temp steak on the first side for a couple of minutes, no more than three, then flip it and almost immediately transfer the pan into a 350 degree oven for a few minutes, depending on the thickness of the steak. Five minutes is good for a nice, thick rib eye or Porterhouse for med-rare. Less for thinner steaks, longer for more done, etc. You'll get the feel of it fast enough. Then you'll have a steakhouse-like steak and life is good! To finish, I'll de-glaze the hot pan with an ounce or two of red wine or balsamic vinegar (not so much vinegar), scrubbing up the sticky bits, throw in some sliced baby Portabella mushrooms, a good pat of butter and stir on med-high heat until it reduces, then pour that over top of your steak (which should be resting on a warm steak plate *grin*) and you can't tell it wasn't made at the best steakhouse in town. Use some Maitre'd butter (butter with herbs in it) for better results. Oh, and while you're making your sauce in the hot, cast pan, let a pat of that butter melt over your resting steak, as well. Umm.. ya. I know what I'm having for dinner tonight! LOL
You have my mouth drooling!!!
Probably one of the most informative and educational comments I've ever read..two thumbs up for taking the time to share your knowledge with us.👍👍
I appreciate your thoughtfulness on the value of doing this! 5 years ago the older pan would have been better for me since I didn’t have the tools and I could find the old stuff. Today I have the tools and can’t find the old stuff! So the value has flipped for me! Great informative video. Thank you!
a lot of people who do not know about cast iron will say your wasting your time. but us old timers no better.. great job my friend
You're absolutely spot on. If you find an authentic old cast iron skillet at a flea market or yard sale, the old ones will be slick smooth on the bottom, and it makes a world of difference. Not only will your food cook better, you can handle it with a spatula and not leave food in the rough texture of the cast iron. Thanks for posting this. Regardless of how you like your surface finish, cast iron is healthier than eating chemical residue from Tefflon/non-stick cookware.
Very good info. I did this last year to a new lodge skillet that my wife bought for us. It cooked as good as some of my Mothers iron that I inherited ( she got them from her Mother ) and that was just the first seasoning ( I fried eggs as a comparison ). Now after a year of use an egg slides around on it like Teflon. Yes indeed, if you have the tools, or money enough to get them, or borrow them, this technique really works well. Thanks for the vid Bud.
Not hating so please don't take it like that. Overall your process is sound. As a professional metal buffer (Truck alum) you need to completely take the surface to the grit your working with before going to a finer grit. Anything you leave like pits, bumps or grinding marks will show and will be 10 times as hard to remove with a finer grit.
I think I'll just use mine frequently and let the seasoning build up it's own. I've heard people say that it's not good to grind it down because it blocks all the pores and doesn't absorb oil like it should. Just going to use mine as is. Haven't had any issues with it, but I'm also not trying to use it like a Teflon pan either. It's a great product, and appreciate that it's made in the USA!
Yeah do that. Thyre made to cook in and use. Not as a sanding project. Use with smooth and it down
yes , that is what i am talking about....good job... the pan looks good !.......my dad suggested i do this years ago , but i never got around to it....he showed me some of his old wagner , and other old pans , they were smooth as glass on the cooking surface , and weighed about half as much as the lodge.......i have aquired a lot of the new lodge cast iron cookware over the last few years and i think i will give them the ( backwoods gourmet ) treatment......i just came across your channel yesterday , so i have a lot of watching to do........thanks , allen.
Welcome and thanks for watching. We have much more over on the channel page.
Liked the video especially your advice at the end. $15 pan, $350 in tools:) I have a lightly used 12" Lodge-really rough. I hand sanded it for a few minutes with 100 then 220 grit-that's all I had on hand. That did seem to remove the high points and I wasn't trying to remove the pits from casting. I'm going to season it in the oven with grape seed oil using the Field Company instructions. Wish me luck.
I had a rusty pan that had been neglected by me (had forgotten it was under the sink for several years lol) and I took a cheap angle grinder with a wire brush to it. Got it way better than it ever had been just with maybe ten minutes of that. I agree it ain't gotta be perfectly smooth, just an improvement over how it comes. Don't need a full machine shop to get something that'll work like it should.
How did the seasoning go?
@@takla3210 It worked very well. All I did is remove the high spots(those that tend to grab) and left the rest of the seasoning on. I've since found that all I really needed to do was to lightly sand and do a stove top seasoning which saved a LOT of time and gas! It worked great after that.
Thanks for the video. I like your method of seasoning. I need to polish my newer junk so they cook as well as my old factory polished pans.
My old (inherited) WagnerWare are very smooth ... my new Lodges are not. I thought about doing what you did w/ the Lodges ... thanks for the info ... but I'm a procrastinator. So my solution was Stainless Steel Spatulars and 4-5yrs of cooking and scrapping. You are so right, cast iron is soft ... and SS is harder. They are getting smoother by the day ... may take a few more years though ...
I like your pan ... Good Job!!!
That what I do LOL!
I have a bunch of lodge stuff and the only one i REALLY think need polished are the griddle i use for pancakes and stuffn and the wok. Id like those two to be smoother. Everything else seems to work fine with good amount of seasoning.
Lodge could solve a lot of arguing between its customers, by making a smooth version and a porous version for people to buy what they want
People would pay twice a much for a smooth version. Thanks for watching.
@@BackwoodsGourmetChannel , people are paying five times as much for new, smooth cast iron right now. Why Lodge won't step up is beyond me!
what to do? Shave or not to shave for the next hot date?
@@BackwoodsGourmetChannel I would!!
@@robertkat not to shave, that is the answer
I enjoy you video's I do a bit of camp cooking this one is good for a northern favorite. Cranberry Chicken
2 lbs. chicken breasts
1 can cranberry sauce
1 cup A Salad Dressing(French is good, Italian is good, Russian is good)
1/2 package Onion soup mix
1 Tbsp corn starch
Place ingredients in a baking dish and bake at 350 for 1 hour
Serve over rice
I cook this in a camp dutch oven
That is impressive!! I never knew you needed to strip the store layer off. Thx for sharing.
You confirmed what I'd suspected I'd have to do to get the classic cast iron finish that the old pans are so well-known for. I've seen some people on UA-cam go over their pans with sandpaper, but I never thought they looked smooth enough and using seasoning to make up for a rough finish just doesn't give the same results. I never did like the factory finish on the Lodge I bought new a few years ago. Gotta try this now. Thanks for the great video.
All those saying that the lodge will "smooth out" with use has clearly never used one for a length of time, or not used a new one. The new ones are SOOOO gritty compared to the old stuff. NOTHING is like the old Wagnerware, Griswold, Butterpat, or even Ausion. (Yes I know the latter is a steel pan) My current wagner #9 from the 40's is like a glass surface. Things will literally slide off of it because it's so smooth. I took it down to metal and reseasoned it and it's SOOO much better than my 15 year old Lodge pan ever was. I put two new ones on the stove and put the lodge up in the cabinet.
c allen so sand your lodge and reseason it. I bought my Lodge 20 years ago and sanded it smooth about 15 years ago. Cooks right alongside my grannies 80 year old Wagner ware
I'll take that lodge off you hands if you dont want it?!😂 Can always use another
Sorry if I missed it, but did you apply oil after each time you put it in the Weber?
FINALLY! Thank you Sir. Someone who understands how cast iron is supposed to be. The manufacturers used to produce a superior product but have become too cheap and lazy and would prefer to sell an inferior product. Thankfully, I inherited my grandmothers' 100 yr. old pans.
When you wash the pan after sanding what do you use, cold or hot water?
Thanks a million! I was wondering how to smooth out the bottom of a new dutch oven. Your method was what I had in mind, but I was unsure of disc type and grit!.
Do you wipe out excess oil before putting in the grill or no? My lodge is not as shiny but I was shown to wipe out excess oil before putting in the stove. Thanks
I strip and polish all my new Lodge. I’ve found that the flap discs dig in a bit to much because the abrasive is so much harder than the iron. What works better for me is a steel wire wheel. Get the twisted strand kind with the thick wires and it works great. Eye and ear protection! A flying broken wire can really hurt.
I use the same method, wire wheels work very well, if used with appropriate safety protection. They are excellent in the bends and corners. They don't gum up when cleaning down old pans to refinish them.
I So got the skills! Whoooot! Can't wait to get to it!
Back in the day the factories shined up their castings much the same way, grind, sand and file all that iron until it was smooth. Today they pop it out of the mold slap a label on it and ship it. I've done the same to new iron cookware, makes for a much better cooking and cleaning surface.
Very thorough instructions, that was great, thankyou much.
And by the way I have two medium cast iron woks That I purchased and plan follow your video to smooth and season them to improve cooking quality.
I've used Lodge cast Iron products for years and I don't have any issues with food sticking, when I get done using my frying pan i just wash it with hot water and NO ''dish detergent'' while the pan is still hot then dry it and coat it with a thin film of olive oil and she is good to go for the next cooking, but thanks for taking the time to make this video !
Thats usually how I do it too. That or bacon grease. Then I let it season while I am cooking the next meal.
I only do a formal seasoning if I do an extensive scrubbing and some of the seasoning comes off. Then I just oil it up and toss it in the fireplace once the fire is down to coals.
To each their own, however soap does not do any damage to CI. That used to be the case but dish soap is not lye based any more so it does no damage to the seasoning.
OK...here is the ingredients in dish washing liquid, water, sodium C14 olefin sulfonate, lauramine oxide, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium chloride, sodium xylenesulfonate, fragrance, citric acid, DI-ppg-2, myreth-10 adipate, styrene/acrlates, copolymer, phenoxyerhanol. methylisorgiazolinone, yellow 5 and red 33.....I will stick with just using hot water on a hot cast iron frying pan but thanks for your input !
If I wanted an ingredient list I would go look at my bottle. All I know is I wash wish Dawn and hot water, and because of how well seasoned the piece is all it does is remove oils and flavor from what I cooked. And the water and everything just comes right off like a well waxed paint job. But like I said, to each their own.
@@jyou5072 it's not about soap doing damage to cast iron which I assume is what you meant by "ci". Soap removes all the oils present on the cast iron surface. Then the metal dries and immediately begins to oxidize which leaves a rusted surface. The only way I know of to prevent the oxidation is to soak it in oil immediately causing a barrier between the iron and oxygen.
This is the final manufacturing step that most cast iron manufacturers don't do. They leave it to the customer. I think I would just do the bottom surface of the pan sinces that's where most of the cooking occurs. I don't have your patience or the artistic ability to do the sides. I have a flat cast iron griddle that I did this on. It's a major improvement. After seasoning, it's a much better non-stick surface than anything on the market.
The rough surface on sand cast Lodge pan consists of peaks and valleys. If you don't have the time and equipment to remove that much metal just get off the sharp peaks and let the valleys fill in with seasoning. In time a metal spatula will glide across the surface much like a machined pan. I have a well conditioned Lodge pan that comes very close to performing like my Stargazer.
Nice job of milling ! I'm going to re-do some of my modern pans to make them like my old pans. I use lard for seasoning.
Found some rudely cast pans at recycle. Pretty much took the same approach and worked out well. Thanks for confirming and encourage folk to search recycle
Please check for lead in a “ find “
Thanks for that concern. I am familiar with the need to test. But a wise alert.
Sir, this is the 3rd video I see on that topic and by far, you reach the most beautiful results. Thanks !
My thoughts as well.
I got a new lodge 10” pan. Will need to grind down the inside like you did in your video. Thanks for the vid that u did it will really help!
THANK YOU!!! Very informative, instructional, and entertaining!!
Looks perfect! I have been doing my new CI pans like this for quite awhile and I think it is time well spent. thanks for posting👍👍
I used the Avanti Pro Quick strip disc, for use with a drill. It gets into the edges as well as the walls and bottom. I sanded a lodge wok into a glass like finish.
I sanded a 10 inch lodge by hand. It took some time but can be done
Hi may i know which sand paper you used? Any details on how you did it would be helpful. Many thanks
I got this man,It’s in the bag.Thanks for sharing
Thanks for making a great video! After finding antique Griswold and Wagner pans in antique shops I realized why my Lodge pans were so hard to use. I have basically done the same thing you did to 12" and a 10" lodge skillets except I removed ALL of the pits from the bottom of the pans and did not polish the sides because I didn't think it was necessary. I don't see any need to go through the extensive "seasoning" process you did because if the pan surface is super smooth and you are using a good fat it will be totally non-stick. "Seasoning" is just the process of filling in the porous holes in the surface of the metal until it becomes smooth. No porous holes = no need for seasoning. I just grind/polish the bottom of the pan down to a mirror, wash it with hot water and soap, throw it on the stove, heat it up until it is good and dry, put a hunk of bacon fat in it and start cooking. Totally non-stick and if necessary I can wash them with soap and water because there is no "seasoning" to wash off. If I do need to wash a pan, just a coating of bacon fat is all that is needed after drying it off. I can take a Lodge skillet from the box to the stovetop in an hour. I have been using these pans for a couple of years and they have performed flawlessly. I have also polished a bunch for relatives and friends and they love them too.
Good video. I have one Lodge skillet where the finish is so rough that it tears up wooden utensils. I look for old cast iron at flea markets and yard sales and currently have over 50 pieces.
If you didn't grind it out how long would it take to get the new lodge pan to a nice state of use? It looks like it'd take a pretty long time given how pitted the casting is brand new.
The entire process only takes 1/2 hour. If you don't do this is will take you about 8-12 months of regular use to build up enough seasoning to make it smooth.
@@BackwoodsGourmetChannel Roger that! Thanks!
Shane Singleton
Spend a weekend seasoning your pan. Use a good oil with a high smoke temp, coat it liberally inside and out and put it in your oven at 375 for 1 hour. Cool and repeat until you get it how you want it.
@@rickdavis2235 Thank ya, sir. HAven't purchased one yet. Just doing some pre-purchase research. Also probably going to be picking up at least 1-2 from my mom as she has many. some of which were my grandmother's
@@Shane-Singleton Contrary to what the poster above claims, you don't want a nice thick oil coat. You want as thin a coat as possible & to build up many such thin coats over time. Thick oil coats work somewhat but are prone to having pieces of seasoning flake off. Thin coats don't seem to have this problem.
Nice job. Just purchased 1 12in and 1 grill skillet. 1st time using cast. Season both twice. Hopefully I will get caught up using them all time time.
Thanks so much for clearing up some confusion for us. My husband took the grinder to our Lodge skillet at the shop where he works. Glad I decided to use grape seed oil, like you recommended. We seasoned in our indoor oven, which took three times in the "recommended" temp of 325. Might have been better at a higher temp like you recommended. Who knew? Thanks for all your info!
In your opinion, do you think there's less stick between a grainy seasoned pan or a polished seasoned pan?
There is no question about the fact that smooth pans out-perform rough pans. Rough pans will eventually work just fine after about 6 months of regular use and sticking to almost everything.
From reading (too many) discussions around the web, it seems that there is a RIGHT degree of smoothness.
Too smooth ("mirror") and the seasoning won't hold right, too rough ("as cast") and no amount of seasoning will stop food sticking (unless you cook at low temps with gallons 'o oil)
Lightly run a fine wool pad over your skillet in between seasonings to give the new coat something to adhere to. Allows it to build up a nice thick layer of seasoning but also super slick.
To be honest...these new Lodge pans are pretty nonstick right off the shelf. Remove the sticker, wash & dry the pan, heat, oil, cook...an egg wont stick unless you're inexperienced at cooking eggs. It. At not slide around like on an ice rink, but it wont stick.
Very nice work. Your finished product looks awesome. I just did this process on my new 12" Lodge as well and it turned out great. I used avacado oil.
i would recommend washing the pan between polishing and seasoning.
Don't stress too much on the pits left on the bottom. I picked up a used Lodge 14" pan. After removing the seasoning I found a 3/32 void in the bottom. Digging around in it to see how deep it was, I actually dug deep enough to make an .045 through hole. I could see light through it. After a couple seasonings, it filled and and just looks like a black spot. It doesn't leak and it's flush with the cooking surface. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I collect and use cast iron all the time. Some of my favorite pieces are well over 100 years old. I've probably seasoned 1000 pieces of iron. Yet I've never done it on my Weber. Why? BECAUSE I'M A FRIGGIN MORON I GUESS! It just never occurred to me. Thank's now I've got a new excuse to hang around outside around my grill and drink beer!
My Weber won't stay lit without constant tending with a beer in my hand. It didn't say anything about that in the instructions... but it's true.
Greetings sir! I wasn’t surprised when I came across your video. After numerous seasonings I too wound up refinishing my 10” Lodge. I remember as a child, the pan we had, had a machined cooking surface and eggs slid like a dream. I think I’ll do some more refinishing on it since I didn’t remove as much pits as you did
Question though…having gone through the effort of grinding it…how necessary would you say it was? I mean, was it worth it? Please rsvp…preciate it! God bless and Happy New Year!
All cast iron pots & pans should come smooth like that; what are these companies thinking having porous cookware. Good job fixing it.
Just bought that exact same Lodge pan on Amazon. Is it really necessary to go through this procedure before cooking in the pan. I have another century old pan that I am sure that this procedure was not done and it cooks just great. We do oil the pans after cooking and cleaning. Great video and very interesting.
As we explained in the video, Lodge USED to do this at the factory. They stopped in the 70's when they started their factory seasoning. This was to save them money on returned rusted pans and to cut cost, not to make them work better.
@@BackwoodsGourmetChannel Thanks for the info. I know nothing about the Lodge history.
If you are patient, your new lodge will eventually smooth itself out through use. Depending on how much you cook with it, it might take a year of regular cooking to get it glass smooth. My dutch ovens never et that smooth because they are only used once every several weeks but my fry pans have been mirror smooth for a long time.
In my experience it's even much less than a year.
@@jyou5072 that's not even remotely true
@@eugenemotes9921 it Al depends on how much you use it.
To continue the comparison, I think you should buy another new pan pre seasoned and do nothing to it a cook eggs on both. Who is the winner? I think people would assume the sanded one, but I’d like to know before I go to all the trouble. Does smoother really equate to better non stick?
I have done that here on this channel. See the channel page and subscribe.
@@BackwoodsGourmetChannel Cool! Thx for the info!
Home run, I'm impressed how well that skillet took seasoning. BTW, you just created the best of both worlds, a new skillet with thicker walls, yet having the polish, seasoning, and performance of the classics.
I am so grateful I found this channel. First I did you're squirrel recipe with my boys after their first hunt...the BOMB! Never squirrel could taste that good & be that tender...but then...I found this video.
I've used cast iron for years...I've become so frustrated with the new ones as they're quality of smoothness was so inferior to that of my old ones but somehow I got the impression doing something like this was sacrilege...a cardinal sin of sorts...well buddy, I got the tools, I got me the skillets & me'z gonna go to town! Thanks for posting this and showing me how to make my CI even better! BIG THUMBS U!!
I did this several years ago to my Lodge pan. Made a big difference.
Yes I got the Skills & Tools an I cook with cast iron all the Time !! Grandma & my Mother Taught Me !!!!
love it ! do mine the same way with a random orbit till they look like a mirror then season 10 times...…. Teflon who ? cool channel man !
I have the tools but no Weber grill, can I just use the oven? I got a Lodge a few years ago and just went straight into seasoning it 6 times, but it still won't let an egg slide around.
Great job smoothing out that Lodge surface. It looks like glass. I must be doing something wrong, cuz my new 12 inch pan has that same new texture but I scramble eggs every Saturday morning and they don't stick. I don't see and added value in grinding out the surface.
They do it to make it look like the old stuff
Exacxtly! If it ain't broke, .....
Without the texture the scrapping sound isn't as obnoxious but cooking wise it make no difference, so if you use plastic they are the same.
It’s the reason you can buy the pans so cheaply! It’s just a cast pan, there are other cast iron pans on the market that come polished only they cost about 5x more. If you were to ever bake a cake or cornbread in your cast iron you would want it like glass, they pop right out of the pan then. Unlike an unpolished pan
@@xanthopoulos1825 I disagree, I bake in my modern unmodified lodge all the time and have absolutely no issues with sticking. The smooth surface is a personal preference but not necessary.
Nice job. I love the cast iron skillet. 💝👍👏😊
From an old grinder guy, a 4” grinder would have been easier to handle and done the job just fine. Also, an older flap whee is more forgiving.
I don't know why I subscribe to your channel! Every video of yours I watch makes me hungry!LOL!
Wade
I sanded my new lodge 12” pan. I do not have a charcoal grill but seasoned mine in a 450-475 oven for an 1 1/2 hours and then let it remain in the oven until cool . I used grapeseed oil after a the pan was warm. I used super thin coats and repeated this entire process at least 5 times. I used it for the first time today with plenty of oil for potatoes, sausage, ham cubes, and eggs for a breakfast skillet meal. A lot of the seasoning came off the pan. This has happened twice now. The first time I took it down to bare metal and started over. What is going wrong? Is it the acidic properties of the ham on a fresh seasoning?
It's too worn down is my guess. Not holding the seasoning.
My job requires me to bring bare metal to mirror finish. Your approach was brutal as hell but I’m gonna do mine. I won’t worry about the sides because I rarely get stuff sticking to sides. Thanks
A mirror finish doesn't work with this process. You need the fine scratches to help hold the seasoning, just like paint. Thanks for watching.
How old do think the antique skillet is? I have one marked exactly the same on the bottom. It was completely rusted from flood waters. I sanded it down, then scrubbed it silly with SOS pads, soap and all. It was silver, so I heated it really hot and wiped it down. The first time I used it, I fried chicken in it so that the inside would be covered in hot peanut oil. Nothing stuck, and the whole thing is a beautiful, almost jet black color.
The purpose of seasoning a pan is to give you a smooth surface, which results in a more "nonstick" surface in the end. The texture in the bottom of the pan is meant to hold the seasoning. Your basically just speeding up the process by grinding it smooth, so you dont have to season it 100 times to get a decent pan. Honestly, i only ever grind pans if something drastic happens or they rust.
Will the self cleaning option not do the same? I’ve sanded an Old Mountain but don’t wanna try on my Lodges just yet. My go to seasoning is frying bacon then doing country potatoes in that same grease. After that they roll fried eggs like mad. But me and my kiddo like scrambled with milk and cheese. The pan I do that in was made out of love. Lots of cooking in it before I could even think of scrambling lok
I just got the 15” skillet, didn’t need to do any sanding. Not necessary, seasoned it a couple times and works great.
It’s like trying to reinvent the wheel or toothbrush.
✌🏽
I have the 15" Lodge pan, I've seasoned it 5 or 6 times. Still sticks on anything that doesn't have a lot of fat.
Excellent presentation Backwoods...was finally 'bout endeavor into something Wifey has been asking me to do for past 8yrs maybe more: Refinishing our skillets (Primariy the newer ones which were not sanded smooth prior to seasoning). Major thanks Sir to you and your instructional video because without trial and error, you provided me the precise sanding specs info that i needed to know, and to be honest, major contributing factor for the delay with respect to refinishing. Im now actually looking forward to doing this, Hi Ho Hi Ho, its off to Home-Depot I go!!
Just learn to properly heat and season cast iron as it comes from the factory. I never have a problem with my cast iron sticking. The rough surface of the cast iron help the seasoning stick and less of it will be scraped off because of the low spots. It is a shame that people resort to sanding cast iron smooth because they think it makes it more "non-stick".
I agree Todd. One hour in a preheated oven @ 300 deg with a thin coating of crisco or canola oil. Then cook with oil & enjoy it. It aint rocket science.
Mike Jones yeah... I’ll definitely take the advice from the guy saying you can season a pan with crisco
@@xanthopoulos1825 Crisco is proven to be perfectly fine for seasoning cast iron, in fact is probably the most common oil used among cast iron enthusiasts and users all around the world.
@@xanthopoulos1825 Crisco is all I use on all my cast iron cookware.
@jubjub247 there is literally no difference in how a smooth surface and a little more rough surface cooks the food. Proper seasoning will also help food not stick. And as far as flavor, not sure how you came up with that.
Is this a pain to do it by hand as I don’t have a sander?
First off, let me say I have watched every one of your vids and appreciate each and every one. I am a cast iron collector of approx 25 pieces of Griswold and Wagner. Cook with CI frequently, or have more in the past. I use my Lodge dutch oven camping frequently. With that said, I have recently been introduced to carbon steel. The properties of carbon so very close to CI but with carbon possessing a few positive features over cast iron. Reason for writing this is basically to voice opinion of Lodge current business practice in mftg an undesirable product. I know of no one that has any basic working knowledge of cooking that desires a rough bottom skillet. Lodge used to make a smooth bottom pan but their business continues to grow and demand exceeds production (they just completed an additional mftg facility) so Lodge has determined they will no longer smooth the bottoms, but rather, quickly make a rough bottom skillet leaving new skillet owner to do the sanding if they want a smooth bottom. I find it misleading for Lodge to claim they leave bottoms rough to help hold the factor seasoning. Again, who wants a rough bottom? Who wants to purchase the new item leaving new owner to smooth skillet, spend time sanding, etc? Look at all the many sanding video's on YT proving Lodge making an undesirable product. With my new desire to purchase a couple of carbon steel skillets and wishing to buy American I purchased Lodge. Terribly rough bottom that keeps me wondering why I purchased when America's Test Kitchen reviews and Kent Rollins type video's stating Lodge was way down in quality. There are several brands that costs approx $15.00 more but arrive with a totally smooth finish.
As one CI lover to another, I strongly urge you to try a carbon steel skillet.out of curiosity. Same cooking techniques, same seasoning techniques, same maintenance techniques. If you by chance do try a carbon skillet, please don't purchase a Lodge you will be so greatly disappointed.
I now use my CI for baking some cornbread and a few other sporadic items in my kitchen but 95% of time I have switched to carbon with happier results. I now know why majority of professional chefs choose carbon steel.
I have heard a lot of negative comments on my channel about the Lodge Carbon steel products. Mostly concerning it warping. I will have to try it myself. Thanks for watching.
That was very informative I can see from the stack of cast iron pans I have I've got about 3 days work cut out for me LOL
You gotta grind these Lodge pans. I mean there's rough, and then there's too rough. Lodge pans are too rough.
I like the smooth finish also. I might be wrong but you was trying to smooth the cast iron not grind out the pits, like others had said that’s the nature of cast iron in pouring it. I’m not sure why some of the viewers would think you needed to mess with trying to fill the pits? The seasoning will fill in the pits and you won’t even know it. You did a great job on showing us how to get that mirror like finish in a short time. God bless!
I just posted this on a Lodge video. I love Lodge. If I buy new it will probably be Lodge. But I, for myself, never buy new Lodge, since that pebbled surface came out. No! It is not the same! The couple of new pieces I have, I took a fine grit grind stone and knocked the most of the bumps off. Eventually any uneven spots will fill in, I hope. They cook ok, but there is no comparison between the old and the new Lodge. Would I be considered an expert? Probably not, but I've used cast iron for over 60 years, so I know my way around it pretty good. I still use my mother's, my grandmother's and my mother-in-law's every day. I buy the occasional piece of unrecognizable cast iron at yard sales when I can get them for a couple of bucks. Expensive or cheap, I love my cast iron. I nearly cried when I had to buy a new piece where I worked and tried to cook on it 😢
Great video! I redid mine with sandpaper to 220 grit and seasoned with flax seed oil. Turned out well. Do you prefer grape seed to flax seed?
I am going to try flax seed oil on my next one. So no opinion yet.
He actually prefers Weed seed...
No thanks, I'll use any lodge off the shelf with same results as my old Griswold or Wagner pieces. Knowing how to use cast iron is how you'll get good results. No need for a glass smooth surface
Modern off-the-shelf cast iron skillets are garbage. The old ones were sold ground smooth. Without this kind of remedial work you can't even properly fry an egg in a modern pan, or flip it with a thin flexible spatula.
J You so how to keep scrambled eggs from sticking?
@@michaelshelnutt3534 the key is proper seasoning. Not just the lodge pre-seasoning. In addition to that, there has to be enough fats/oil used when cooking. I don't like my eggs frying in a bunch of oil, so I just use a small amount of canola spray. Another key is preheating the iron before oil, then eggs/other food. It's actually pretty easy. I have alot of new lodge pieces and would put em up against any of my old stuff. We use our new 12" skillet and new 10" chef skillet most often and never have issues with sticking.
As far as seasoning I prefer a product I found called crisbee. It gives the best seasoning I've ever seen IMO.
crisbee.org
@jubjub247 it does no worse smells or smoke than any other oils as long as you wipe it enough just like any other seasoning method. As far as scented versions go, they are all food grade scents. Same that you'll find in foods almost everywhere. It's not just some harsh chemical that you'd be in taking into your body. I find it laughable that you could even think to imply that it would be unhealthy to use Crisbee.
@jubjub247 definitely not a stock holder as their company is a small family business and I live thousands of miles away from them and came across their product online and gave it a try. Not doing damage control, just giving it straight how I see it with the results I get with their product. Carcinogens eh? You do realize that ALL the other oils you mentioned also release carcinogens don't you? And yes food grade scents, those and dyes are used is more foods than most people realize. So pretty much unless you eat strictly what you grow yourself, there are scents and dyes added to your food.
I'm wondering with the soft metal if I could use some cut off disc and take a 12" or so Lodge and make the bottom into a grate pan. Allowing to have its content to be flamed kiss on a grill or campfire. I am finding it almost impossible to find cast iron grates without it being coated in porcelain. :( Maybe you have some thoughts on this.
Lodge (and others) sell grilling (Grate) pans bare with their just poor seasoning.
bottom line is Lodge pans are not as good as the old ones, I have some Griswold pans that are smooth and not pitted.
All cast iron is pourous!!
Yup.
That new Lodge got that dark after only two runs on the kettle? What oil did you use?
Veg oil such as canola works just fine. Do it 3--4 times, and do it outside on a BBQ or campfire (lots of smoke as the oil carbonizes).
I have 2 identical lodge pans I bought 10 years apart. The old one has 15 years of seasoning and the new one has 5 years of seasoning.
I smoothed out the newest pan as you have and it is a much better cooking pan.
I bought a new Lodge 10" skillet about 2 years ago, I am still learning tricks and tips on how to use it. But i season it everytime after i use it and some foods still stick pretty good. I have found that if i cook eggs on a higher temp then they dont stick nearly as bad. I just recently found that the food is even less likely to stick if the pan is smooth than rough. The video is awesome and I will have to try this with mine to see if it helps any.
Your food will be much less likely to stick if you allow your pan and oil to preheat properly. You'll want to start heating up the pan WITHOUT oil. Then when the pan is hot, add in the oil and wait for the oil to heat up. Then once the oil is nice and hot you can add your food. Following this procedure of proper pre-heating goes a long way toward preventing sticking. It's coincidentally why your eggs don't stick on high heat, because it brings it up to temp before they're done. You can get that same effect on medium or low so long as you preheat properly first.
@@iPodTouchNinja5 the lodge pans come with a rough finish and that doesn't help not sticking. I've tried turning my heat up and it kept sticking until I sanded the pan flat and reseasoned
40/80 grit with a powered device like a metabo could easily chew right through the entire pan. I use those types of sanders to remove mill scale off welded surfaces, it's extremely easy to punch through the metal itself. Try a much higher grit such as 120 or even 200-ish.
Good video. I also prefer smooth and have more CI than I need, but that's another topic. What I do is when I am warming up my BBQ gas grill, I pick a few pans that need a tune up, give a micro oil and stick them in the cold grill, close it up and crank it up til ready to cook. Pull them out, pile on heat proof table and cover with folded blanket to cool slowly. Pile so no cooking surfaces are touching anything. Will leave some in if I can cook on one side and let them cool down right in the grill when done. Really spiffs them up.
A hour or two spent a lifetime of good cooking
Dude how the heck did you get that pan to have a black patina so fast ?! Just by the grill?? I have a smithey cast iron for a year now and I swear I’m still working on keeping the season on and not flaking from every little meal I make. I put it in the oven for 45 mins with grape seed oil but it never looks like that? It looks silver copperish still ? Please are there any tips I can get ?
I just got a new Lodge pan like yours as a replacement for an older cracked one. Lodge sent it N/C, see my video. I have the tools and skills to polish mine but decided not to. A month of use later and it has naturally gotten as good as my 25 year old pan that cracked. At first it was a little tricky but got better with every use. Your method looks great and obviously works good but I would not discourage using the new pans as they come from Lodge.
I agree. Our next video on this subject will compare this pan to a un-modified Lodge pan. See where I'm going....
Backwoods Gourmet Channel
Well then I am a new subscriber for your channel. Looking forward to seeing that.
Welcome.
Upside down dog, I agree. I got a Lodge a year ago, I use it as it came from the factory, and it works great, never had a problem with it sticking. I can't see putting all that effort into sanding.
I think those lodge cast iron pans are rather low quality. Lots of huge pits...
My great grandfather cast his own cast iron cookware & they were / still are smoother than babies behind on the inside. he had a special tool he used on them while they were still hot - I wish they were still made the 'old' way
200 years from now. Here we have a classic antique Lodge skillet in excellent shape but someone ruined it by putting their name on the bottom. But wait....It’s the backwoods gourmet. That’s a real collector piece. Lol.
What is the first disc you used on the drill?
Great information thank you very much...☮️
I also sand and polish my new ones.I do minimum seasoning of them because after I use them i scrub them with a steel sponge and add just a bit of hot oil. I don't know if this is the right method but it works for me.
Never used a new one still have my grandmas that cam from her mom..
Lodge intentionally leaves the surface rough on new pans because it's easier for them to preseason the pan in the factory. A pan with a polished, smooth surface is actually more difficult to season and doesn't readily accept the oil like a rough surface with tiny pores.