Brilliant! I have the nearly identical radio, the Royal transoceanic 1001-1 1963 version. Ive not had it working for 17 years, and am the original owner circa 1964. I will now give it a go, thanks to your tutorial. Many many thanks for the video!
My grandpa was a radio repairman in the in the 40s and 50s I believe. He worked on a lot of tube radios as well as TVs and some early transistor radios. He had a collection of early transistor radios. I remember listening to an old Zenith radio that he had gotten for my grandma. I remember in his collection he had a radio very similar to this one.
Your style of repair is very real world like. I had copied your circuit diagram tracing talk(noobie syle), now I will copy you check list on paper style. This is a practical way to do things as well than trying to remember steps in right order. I sensed part III will concludes this great adventure. Thank you for a prompt follow up. On another note, I suspect this radio built looks fitting for off shore enjoyment. The socket style transistor meant faster repairs without soldering iron. Speaking of which, it would impossible to heat it up in a sea storm. LOL
The rule is that if has to be simple, or I’ll just give up doing the videos. I’ve tried to get fancy with cameras, etc., and found the editing way too complicated. Now I use an iphone 11 camera on a small tripod with lapel mic (rode smartlav), sometimes my older iphone as a second camera, and edit it all on imovie. Most of the clips are one take and editing.
Looks like that one was made in April and May of 1965 by the numbers on the chassis and also no markings for CONELRAD on the AM dial. Mine was made in 08/08/1963. They are indeed all hand wired point to point as were the Royal 7000 models which came out in 1969 or so. I’m enjoying watching your progress here. Alignment can be a real nightmare on these radios. I left that to the local repair shop (I’m lucky to have such a place). This radio sold for $350 in 1963 which was a lot of money at that time. It is indeed quite cramped in there and it’s amazing they built all that by hand.
B. Day SIG ELETTRONICIS OLD&NEW, y HAVE SEEN YOUR VIDEOS On ZENITH 3000-1, AND THANKS TO YOU* REPAIRED THE VOLUME of my radio! I NEED TO UNDESTAND WERE SHE CONNECTS THE TIPS OF THE VOLTOMETER TEST USING X TO ALIGN THE SHORT WAVES, brodcast, LW, MW, the ZENITH 3000-1. IN HER VIDEOS NO DO YOU SEE IT. Thanks manlio
Speedy positive performance on your part. Good job. I was concerned about the transistors, glad to see that the actual problem was a capacitor. That one capacitor that read way higher than it was supposed to be, is a sure sign of a leaky capacitor! Good thing that you changed it. You may not have the same issues that you do with a high voltage circuit, but it can't be a good thing either. When you were closing out this video I was concerned that you were going to fix the light issue and then close it up and call it done. Glad to hear that you are also going to do an alignment on it as well. It may not need much if any in the way of an alignment, but it would be good to check it anyway. I noticed what looked like a paper capacitor on top of the rat's nest of wires where you mentioned something about the cloth-covered wires...and I thought you would replace that one as well...but it appears that you chose not to...may I ask why? I have no doubt that it is for a very good reason, I am just curious as to why.
Well, you're making rapid progress! 👍 I thought it would take two days just to count the number of those transistors. 😄 That nicely standing separate chassis really makes some things easier. Funny how very often most annoying problems are not electrical but mechanical and sometimes you almost need to consult a gynecologist to change some faulty components located in a place that is very difficult to access.
These old Zeniths were a bit messy to service, but admittedly they were quite sensitive when working. From other channels I watched that feature Zenith's, it is always the caps in the most awkward places that seem to be the issue. It was good seeing you work on this. A little different from the European sets you usually do. :)
Hi again. Regarding the paper caps, there are no paper capacitors in this radio as per the Service Manual. When I restored my 3000-1, I replaced all the electrolytics and found all of them were bad. Unfortunately I replaced all the other non ceramic caps, those that looked like paper caps (C5: 100nF, C32: 100nF, C59: 220nF, C60: 330nF) and, upon later inspection, all of them were perfectly functional with correct capacitance, no leakage at all and good Q factor. Go figure! They were film caps, not paper and were OK. Some of them were real dogs to change, specially that black one inside the rotary switch wafers... I didn't extract the drum to get to the upper lytics, just placed some leaves of kitchen aluminium foils there to prevent the drum from burnings with the soldering iron. The same for the caps behind the dial wires. A bit tricky but worked fine. Keep on the job as this is a wonderful radio with a great sound.
Thanks for making this video- my 3000-1 had exactly the same issues. I understand the 12V bulb repair because you can't find the original, dual voltage(?) Zenith power supply, only a 12V modern replacement unit. So I did the "warm white" LED mod posted on RadioMuseum; soldering the wires on the bulb socket side so they won't hit as the drum revolves. My 5 mfd caps are supposed to come in the mail tomorrow, (I had to order axial caps from EBay) to replace the C56 and C58 caps which I suspect are limiting my FM volume as well. Wish me luck when I pull the drum off; I was kind of hoping you'd show doing that...
@@electronicsoldandnew Thank you, I'm very happy to tell you that I, too, was successful- it works, I've got volume! I replaced all the electrolytics (except the big black one along the bottom)- the four 5 mfd's and the 20 mfd. I seem, so far, to be doubly fortunate in that I'm also hearing good sensitivity across the bands so I'm not going to bother to try to realign it- I've got a Panny and a G.E. that need that done someday. I figured out the drum support bracket just uses the fixed threads as guide wires for the tuning pointer, and I sure am glad I went the pull the drum route. Those point to point components can be tough to desolder and unwrap, and I lost a tiny 1/4 watt 8.2K resistor to a cracked end when I pushed it back in place; but I had plenty of space to replace it with a new 1/2 watt piece. Cheers!
Friend, what is the use of this switch in FM-AFC / FM, what is its effect? And what is the correct position for these yellow and black speaker cables, because they are polarized? Thank you very much.
This series of radios from Zenith (Trans Oceanic) is very large and the oldest models that I know use valves. You maybe appreciated more theses models, difficult to find here in Portugal but easy in Brazil, although most of them very battered by the owners and/or by the age. Good luck with this one, if you need some help, just ask.
Well, it's not often I'm right..but I'm wrong again. It wasn't the transistors but the other old favourite (capacitors). Lucky really - those old Germanium Transistors are usually quite expensive and Russian replacements often seem to be the only way forward if you don't want to go re-biasing for silicon.
Great progress so far Manuel. Could the supply to the second dial lamp be run in two strips of adhesive copper tape stuck flat to the insulating strip? I suppose the only concern may be the long term fail of any adhesive though......
Nice progress on a wonderful radio. Could you not just have removed the black plastic plate behind the drum to access the capacitors ? Seems it is only fastened with two screws.
@@electronicsoldandnew No, sorry to say, even with the black plate removed, you just can't get the soldering iron *safely* past the plastic drum, IMO. It's like the game "Operation," if you have the control of a surgeon, yes you could, but I don't trust myself not to ever "touch" that drum. And unlike the buzzer and red nose lamp, that burn mark/hole will never go away. It's just not worth the risk I'd say, and other repair guys also say the same thing; "easier to remove the drum."
@@electronicsoldandnew Same with mine, a Goodwill find, no battery box, just some corrosion inside the case to indicate a (typical) dead battery leak. I'm going to try using a DIY 3 cell 18650 battery pack, which at full charge should output 12V. I'm told these radios will work between 14v and 11V, as the old zinc batteries ran down. Current draw is low enough, I believe. I'll let you know
Brilliant! I have the nearly identical radio, the Royal transoceanic 1001-1 1963 version. Ive not had it working for 17 years, and am the original owner circa 1964. I will now give it a go, thanks to your tutorial. Many many thanks for the video!
My pleasure, and good luck.
AMAZING. You helped me fix my fathers old radio which I have also used since I was 18. So happy!! Thank you! Thank You! Thank you!
my pleasure
My grandpa was a radio repairman in the in the 40s and 50s I believe. He worked on a lot of tube radios as well as TVs and some early transistor radios. He had a collection of early transistor radios. I remember listening to an old Zenith radio that he had gotten for my grandma. I remember in his collection he had a radio very similar to this one.
These are great radios. 👍 that collection must be worth a fortune.
Your style of repair is very real world like. I had copied your circuit diagram tracing talk(noobie syle), now I will copy you check list on paper style. This is a practical way to do things as well than trying to remember steps in right order. I sensed part III will concludes this great adventure. Thank you for a prompt follow up.
On another note, I suspect this radio built looks fitting for off shore enjoyment. The socket style transistor meant faster repairs without soldering iron. Speaking of which, it would impossible to heat it up in a sea storm. LOL
True 😊 Rocking ship / sailboat doesn’t make for precise soldering.
The rule is that if has to be simple, or I’ll just give up doing the videos. I’ve tried to get fancy with cameras, etc., and found the editing way too complicated. Now I use an iphone 11 camera on a small tripod with lapel mic (rode smartlav), sometimes my older iphone as a second camera, and edit it all on imovie. Most of the clips are one take and editing.
Looks like that one was made in April and May of 1965 by the numbers on the chassis and also no markings for CONELRAD on the AM dial. Mine was made in 08/08/1963. They are indeed all hand wired point to point as were the Royal 7000 models which came out in 1969 or so. I’m enjoying watching your progress here. Alignment can be a real nightmare on these radios. I left that to the local repair shop (I’m lucky to have such a place). This radio sold for $350 in 1963 which was a lot of money at that time. It is indeed quite cramped in there and it’s amazing they built all that by hand.
👍
Amazing work on this bodged radio so far Manuel. Shame on whomever made your job harder by not doing it right . Puzzle pieces coming together nicely.
B. Day SIG ELETTRONICIS OLD&NEW, y HAVE SEEN YOUR VIDEOS On ZENITH 3000-1, AND THANKS TO YOU* REPAIRED THE VOLUME of my radio! I NEED TO UNDESTAND WERE SHE CONNECTS THE TIPS OF THE VOLTOMETER TEST USING X TO ALIGN THE SHORT WAVES, brodcast, LW, MW, the ZENITH 3000-1. IN HER VIDEOS NO DO YOU SEE IT. Thanks manlio
Speedy positive performance on your part. Good job.
I was concerned about the transistors, glad to see that the actual problem was a capacitor. That one capacitor that read way higher than it was supposed to be, is a sure sign of a leaky capacitor! Good thing that you changed it. You may not have the same issues that you do with a high voltage circuit, but it can't be a good thing either.
When you were closing out this video I was concerned that you were going to fix the light issue and then close it up and call it done. Glad to hear that you are also going to do an alignment on it as well. It may not need much if any in the way of an alignment, but it would be good to check it anyway.
I noticed what looked like a paper capacitor on top of the rat's nest of wires where you mentioned something about the cloth-covered wires...and I thought you would replace that one as well...but it appears that you chose not to...may I ask why? I have no doubt that it is for a very good reason, I am just curious as to why.
Those are actually film caps and read good, so I’ll leave well enough alone 😊
Well, you're making rapid progress! 👍
I thought it would take two days just to count the number of those transistors. 😄
That nicely standing separate chassis really makes some things easier. Funny how very often most annoying problems are not electrical but mechanical and sometimes you almost need to consult a gynecologist to change some faulty components located in a place that is very difficult to access.
Happens all too often.
7 7 U6
These old Zeniths were a bit messy to service, but admittedly they were quite sensitive when working.
From other channels I watched that feature Zenith's, it is always the caps in the most awkward places that seem to be the issue.
It was good seeing you work on this. A little different from the European sets you usually do. :)
Yes, the caps are a pain to get to, but with lots of patience ...
I like variety, so this one is a pleasure to get to know.
Good you recapped and the set's working. Do check the resistors.
👍
Hi again. Regarding the paper caps, there are no paper capacitors in this radio as per the Service Manual. When I restored my 3000-1, I replaced all the electrolytics and found all of them were bad. Unfortunately I replaced all the other non ceramic caps, those that looked like paper caps (C5: 100nF, C32: 100nF, C59: 220nF, C60: 330nF) and, upon later inspection, all of them were perfectly functional with correct capacitance, no leakage at all and good Q factor. Go figure! They were film caps, not paper and were OK. Some of them were real dogs to change, specially that black one inside the rotary switch wafers...
I didn't extract the drum to get to the upper lytics, just placed some leaves of kitchen aluminium foils there to prevent the drum from burnings with the soldering iron. The same for the caps behind the dial wires. A bit tricky but worked fine.
Keep on the job as this is a wonderful radio with a great sound.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Nice work, one down ... now for the band selectro switch.
should be fun 😏
great Video, I am thinking of recapping my 1000, but will also install LED's in place if the bulbs . 73's KE2XC
Should work just great. Good luck.
Thanks for making this video- my 3000-1 had exactly the same issues. I understand the 12V bulb repair because you can't find the original, dual voltage(?) Zenith power supply, only a 12V modern replacement unit. So I did the "warm white" LED mod posted on RadioMuseum; soldering the wires on the bulb socket side so they won't hit as the drum revolves. My 5 mfd caps are supposed to come in the mail tomorrow, (I had to order axial caps from EBay) to replace the C56 and C58 caps which I suspect are limiting my FM volume as well. Wish me luck when I pull the drum off; I was kind of hoping you'd show doing that...
Good luck 🤞
@@electronicsoldandnew Thank you, I'm very happy to tell you that I, too, was successful- it works, I've got volume! I replaced all the electrolytics (except the big black one along the bottom)- the four 5 mfd's and the 20 mfd. I seem, so far, to be doubly fortunate in that I'm also hearing good sensitivity across the bands so I'm not going to bother to try to realign it- I've got a Panny and a G.E. that need that done someday. I figured out the drum support bracket just uses the fixed threads as guide wires for the tuning pointer, and I sure am glad I went the pull the drum route. Those point to point components can be tough to desolder and unwrap, and I lost a tiny 1/4 watt 8.2K resistor to a cracked end when I pushed it back in place; but I had plenty of space to replace it with a new 1/2 watt piece. Cheers!
Cheers. 👍
I know you can make it work perfectly, my interest is on how well it performs at optimum condition. We will wait and see.
Let’s keep fingers crossed.
I'm sure it will pickup fast radio bursts from across the galaxy.
Friend, what is the use of this switch in FM-AFC / FM, what is its effect? And what is the correct position for these yellow and black speaker cables, because they are polarized? Thank you very much.
Belo rádio e a sintonizar estação portuguesa
Pois. Temos de divulgar a RDP :)
I've only ever seen a radio before that had plug in transistors. That wafer switch looks like it will be a job and a half.
They are not fun 😊
This series of radios from Zenith (Trans Oceanic) is very large and the oldest models that I know use valves. You maybe appreciated more theses models, difficult to find here in Portugal but easy in Brazil, although most of them very battered by the owners and/or by the age. Good luck with this one, if you need some help, just ask.
Thanks Ricardo.
Well, it's not often I'm right..but I'm wrong again. It wasn't the transistors but the other old favourite (capacitors). Lucky really - those old Germanium Transistors are usually quite expensive and Russian replacements often seem to be the only way forward if you don't want to go re-biasing for silicon.
Yes, I was lucky with this one.
LED's for dial lamps?
I’ll see what the owner chooses.
Great progress so far Manuel. Could the supply to the second dial lamp be run in two strips of adhesive copper tape stuck flat to the insulating strip? I suppose the only concern may be the long term fail of any adhesive though......
I’m a little afraid of the possibility of it getting ripped off.
@@electronicsoldandnew
Yes, you are probably right, it was just a thought🙂
i have one of these seems original shape. how much would it cost to have you go over it?
I'm afraid that is not usually feasible as I live on the island of Madeira, so shipping and customs will make the cost very high.
O vídeo do Zenith transoceanic já tem mais visualizações que o Braun😁😁😁😁😁👍
😊
Nice progress on a wonderful radio.
Could you not just have removed the black plastic plate behind the drum to access the capacitors ? Seems it is only fastened with two screws.
Probably. Didn’t actually see that 😊
@@electronicsoldandnew No, sorry to say, even with the black plate removed, you just can't get the soldering iron *safely* past the plastic drum, IMO. It's like the game "Operation," if you have the control of a surgeon, yes you could, but I don't trust myself not to ever "touch" that drum. And unlike the buzzer and red nose lamp, that burn mark/hole will never go away. It's just not worth the risk I'd say, and other repair guys also say the same thing; "easier to remove the drum."
👍
This one didn't come with with the original battery box, right? Maybe the original owner still has it somewhere.
No, I believe its been missing for years.
@@electronicsoldandnew Same with mine, a Goodwill find, no battery box, just some corrosion inside the case to indicate a (typical) dead battery leak. I'm going to try using a DIY 3 cell 18650 battery pack, which at full charge should output 12V. I'm told these radios will work between 14v and 11V, as the old zinc batteries ran down. Current draw is low enough, I believe. I'll let you know
👍
👍
Now if you had a rechroming set up. I tried nickle plating with sad results.
That is an rod I don’t want to go down. Too messy by far.
🙂👍
Why use a multi-pole switch instead of a turret tuner.
Probably easier to build and cheaper too. Turret tuners are complicated. Lots of circuitry within the turret itself.
@@electronicsoldandnew The CCCP made VEGA used a turret tuner as did the VEGA Selina.