Thanks for your videos, it's very informative and each step by step explained, also thank you for no annoying background music blaring keep them coming
If you heat up the piston to about 100 degrees (F), it will expand the piston enough that the pin will just slide right in. No need for special tools or pounding on it. You can put it in an oven or just use a heat gun like I do. Works amazingly well. Put the rear clip in first, on the bench, before you even put the piston on the rod and pack a rag around the rod so that if you miss with the front clip, it won't fall down into the oil pan. Also, I've never had much luck with piston ring compressors on these bikes. I just use my fingers, a wooden tongue depressor and a bit of oil for lubrication.
Good job and thanks for sharing. One tip when removing or installing those wrist pin clips is to cover the engine block - you really don't want to have to fish them out of there. Looking forward to the heads install and firing it up. Are you planning to use break-in oil?
That is probably a good idea covering the holes in the block, sometimes I don't think about that when trying to video. I am just going to use high zinc motor oil since I am not breaking in a cam or anything.
If you warm up the piston the pin will slide in . Warm the piston with a clean rag soaked in oiling water , you don't need a blow torch , though a hairdryer would be good . I hate using hammers on engines !
@@rabbibacongrease88 I have heard that theses things are quite reliable. All I did was have the cylinders coated and put on new piston rings. I have not even looked at the bottom end.
When you hitted the piston pin with the hammer you have also hit the rings, be careful. Good job.
Thanks for your videos, it's very informative and each step by step explained, also thank you for no annoying background music blaring keep them coming
I hate the music in videos. Please be sure to subscribe.
If you heat up the piston to about 100 degrees (F), it will expand the piston enough that the pin will just slide right in. No need for special tools or pounding on it. You can put it in an oven or just use a heat gun like I do. Works amazingly well. Put the rear clip in first, on the bench, before you even put the piston on the rod and pack a rag around the rod so that if you miss with the front clip, it won't fall down into the oil pan. Also, I've never had much luck with piston ring compressors on these bikes. I just use my fingers, a wooden tongue depressor and a bit of oil for lubrication.
Incredibly helpful. Thank you -
Glad it was helpful!
Good job and thanks for sharing. One tip when removing or installing those wrist pin clips is to cover the engine block - you really don't want to have to fish them out of there. Looking forward to the heads install and firing it up.
Are you planning to use break-in oil?
That is probably a good idea covering the holes in the block, sometimes I don't think about that when trying to video. I am just going to use high zinc motor oil since I am not breaking in a cam or anything.
If you warm up the piston the pin will slide in . Warm the piston with a clean rag soaked in oiling water , you don't need a blow torch , though a hairdryer would be good . I hate using hammers on engines !
That oil control ring did not come with an internal spring oil control ring?
Apparently these oil control rings are all one piece cast iron.
are the cylinders aluminum or cast iron?
They are aluminum. They were originally chrome plated for wear resistance which had a tendency to flake off.
@@bryansprojects3570 how many miles can you put on those before you need to rebuild them?
@@bryansprojects3570 is it possible to get steel or cast iron liners?
@@rabbibacongrease88 I have heard that theses things are quite reliable. All I did was have the cylinders coated and put on new piston rings. I have not even looked at the bottom end.
forgot about the base o washer thanks again
I may not have shown them in this shot but I didi get them in there.