Nice video MI Heating. Good tip on checking the operation of a condensate pump. By the tech's and installers. The non removal of the card board from under the float of a new condensate pump brought back some memories 2003 to 2005. I had to go back on few new installs for that. Plus many other various callbacks by that small install crew. Nothing was ever done to the installers it seemed, no teaching/repercussions. Needless to say I cut ties with them and never looked back.
Excellent video and a tribute to one handed people. More should be done for the disabled snotty sniffer brigade. More strength to the one hand you are using.
The pump manufacturer states in the installation manual that a hose clamp should be used on the discharge hose, and not rely on just the barb to keep the hose from coming off. I would think that any professional installation would include that hose clamp.
Great video though I have one question should the drain line have suction? Mines hooked into the house drain and when not pumping its suckling air from the drain towards the pump and furnace 24/7
Why didnt he show how to wire the safety switch on the condensate box...that's the only thing I need since mine are red and white but don't know which one goes where for sure and or if it matters. I have mine running but has a pretty potent burning plastic smell as well the "run" light is came on after the third time it ran and is now stating on...also it sounds like it's definitely getting louder :/ Any help would be appreciated...again, I am only replacing not installing a new one and want to just be sure the lower voltage wires are correct where they connect TO THE BOX ITSELF (not the thermostat or furnace) or does it matter. I'm a little frustrated and believe I may have gotten a bad one.
Just wondering why there is a clamp on the PVC 90 exiting the furnace ... shouldn’t it be cemented ? And, would effluent ever leak from the vent hole you want to put in the 90?
Crypto Quandary, did you read the manual that came with your VCMA-UL20? The VCMA manuals I have seen described, and illustrated, what those two wires are for and how to hook them up. You have three options with them: - Do nothing with them, and let them hang unused - Wire them into the furnace or AC thermostat circuit, to shut that off if water level in the pump's little tank gets too high - reverse the high-high level switch's wiring per the manual and hook those wires up to some kind of alert or alarm system
Don't agree with breaking the power to the thermostat, doing that would shut my Ecobee thermostat off. Makes more sense to interrupt the AC circuit / yellow wire and shut the compressor down since that is the source of the moisture.
@@danabasiliere5417 Would you say this is the best condensate pump? My HVAC guy recommended the Nextgen VCMX-20ULS, but I wasn't sure? Any suggestions? Thanks.
I did not know that about the 90 coming out. I'm kinda having a brain fart, what is the alternative, don't they all have to 90 out? Or should it be a Tee?
use a 90 coming out with tfe not glue because you won't have to cut it out if it ever gets clogged and he knocked the pump around quite a bit then he ran wires under the pump .... lol.... drilled a hole for a breather ...because he didn't have a t ...and not to mention put screws through a plastic box without pre drilling.. just a few things I noticed and I couldn't even watch the full video ..to say the least this is a horrible replacement of a pump
High efficiency units should be air tight. If you moved the pump mount location, you should have covered up the old hole. You now have left an exposed unit at this customer's location. Details matter!
You think the grommet where the wires go through unit is air tight, or where the water discharge tube exits the unit. Probably has 3+ holes on other side of unit that are just covered with pieces of plastic that aren’t air tight either.
Nice video MI Heating. Good tip on checking the operation of a condensate pump. By the tech's and installers. The non removal of the card board from under the float of a new condensate pump brought back some memories 2003 to 2005. I had to go back on few new installs for that. Plus many other various callbacks by that small install crew. Nothing was ever done to the installers it seemed, no teaching/repercussions. Needless to say I cut ties with them and never looked back.
Excellent video and a tribute to one handed people. More should be done for the disabled snotty sniffer brigade. More strength to the one hand you are using.
The pump manufacturer states in the installation manual that a hose clamp should be used on the discharge hose, and not rely on just the barb to keep the hose from coming off. I would think that any professional installation would include that hose clamp.
Remove the cardboard, no other video mentioned this. I pulled it out and water came flying in my face. Thank you
Does this pump evaporate water like a humidifier?
No
@MIHeatingGuy how have you been? I haven't seen any videos? Are you slow at work? On vacation?
Great video though I have one question should the drain line have suction? Mines hooked into the house drain and when not pumping its suckling air from the drain towards the pump and furnace 24/7
nice tutorial. how long those condensate pumps last? mine is on the floor.
Mine is on the floor too.
Yea mine too. Makes it difficult to pull down to replace and troubleshooting.
Why didnt he show how to wire the safety switch on the condensate box...that's the only thing I need since mine are red and white but don't know which one goes where for sure and or if it matters. I have mine running but has a pretty potent burning plastic smell as well the "run" light is came on after the third time it ran and is now stating on...also it sounds like it's definitely getting louder :/
Any help would be appreciated...again, I am only replacing not installing a new one and want to just be sure the lower voltage wires are correct where they connect TO THE BOX ITSELF (not the thermostat or furnace) or does it matter. I'm a little frustrated and believe I may have gotten a bad one.
Thanks for the vid! Would you say this is the best condensate pump? My HVAC guy recommended the
Nextgen VCMX-20ULS, but I wasn't sure? Thanks.
Thanks for the drill a hole reminder in the elbow. keep rockin.
Where in the furnace did you connect the wiring?
What wires did you use in to wire to inside the unit
Just wondering why there is a clamp on the PVC 90 exiting the furnace ... shouldn’t it be cemented ?
And, would effluent ever leak from the vent hole you want to put in the 90?
nice job. I always cut the cord and wire to the unit. Just preference I guess lol but I learn a lot from your videos!!
just bought a vcma-ul20 to replace the vcma-ul15 I had there are two wires coming out this one do they need to be used? ..weird..
think it is used for a furnace shutdown- if the pump has a failure ---ua-cam.com/video/dcLhyLu0-y8/v-deo.html
Crypto Quandary, did you read the manual that came with your VCMA-UL20? The VCMA manuals I have seen described, and illustrated, what those two wires are for and how to hook them up.
You have three options with them:
- Do nothing with them, and let them hang unused
- Wire them into the furnace or AC thermostat circuit, to shut that off if water level in the pump's little tank gets too high
- reverse the high-high level switch's wiring per the manual and hook those wires up to some kind of alert or alarm system
The condensate pipe shouldn’t touch the water anyhow if the pump stops working it will cut the device off
Don't agree with breaking the power to the thermostat, doing that would shut my Ecobee thermostat off. Makes more sense to interrupt the AC circuit / yellow wire and shut the compressor down since that is the source of the moisture.
The high efficiency furnace produces moisture too.
What's a new pump cost ?
45 TO 100 bucks. that was the cheap $45 one
@@danabasiliere5417 Would you say this is the best condensate pump? My HVAC guy recommended the
Nextgen VCMX-20ULS, but I wasn't sure? Any suggestions? Thanks.
@@DaCake2 If you are planning to stay in the house 10 years or more go with the Nextgen. Also you can do it yourself.
i love it when I get a condensation pump call , nice a easy !
JH HVAC & Plumbing how much do you charge to install one of these labor only?
How about using tripod
I do this kinda work
I don't trust the cheap plastic on those pumps to hold so I put it on the ground.
I did not know that about the 90 coming out. I'm kinda having a brain fart, what is the alternative, don't they all have to 90 out? Or should it be a Tee?
use a 90 coming out with tfe not glue because you won't have to cut it out if it ever gets clogged and he knocked the pump around quite a bit then he ran wires under the pump .... lol.... drilled a hole for a breather ...because he didn't have a t ...and not to mention put screws through a plastic box without pre drilling.. just a few things I noticed and I couldn't even watch the full video ..to say the least this is a horrible replacement of a pump
@@tylermccall1600 pre drill? It already comes with holes. So you’re wrong
@@michaelmcneffii1912 depends what pump you get
Easy install
High efficiency units should be air tight. If you moved the pump mount location, you should have covered up the old hole. You now have left an exposed unit at this customer's location. Details matter!
You think the grommet where the wires go through unit is air tight, or where the water discharge tube exits the unit. Probably has 3+ holes on other side of unit that are just covered with pieces of plastic that aren’t air tight either.
Those small pumps are garbage; the larger diversitechs are okay, but I like the little giant more. I wish my company used them.