Benny i was doing a job at the Ford engine development centre in Geelong Victoria and mentioned you in conversation. They all knew who you were👍 pity i couldn't take photo's of the hand built prototype Barra sitting on an engine stand but it's going into the ford museum apparently
Internet rumors has it that one of those prototypes was sent to ford USA for funding approval to develop the barra, only for it to go missing and turn up a few years later in an old mustang
Good to see you using Hylomar. Way back in 1965 a mate was racing FJ at Symmons Plains and kept blowing head gaskets - I (as a smart alec 14yo) told him to use Hylomar which he finally did after a couple more race days and never blew another one. From memory he was running a 179 with high compression 149 head.
If you want to tighten your head studs/bolts to secure evenly torqued sealing surface, you start from center. Same goes for oil sump seal, port flange seals and valve cover seal. If you start from corner, it will twist the sealing surface to a propeller. When you tear the engine down, you start from corner, but when fastening nuts and bolts, always from the center out.
Well, that's one Barra that won't be leaking oil again any time soon! Wish I could say the same for mine, the floor of my garage looks like a Jackson Pollock painting.
Bennie, You need to look at a CRC Smartwasher! Will clean all the varnish off the oil pump housing sweet as and super easy! Plus they are great for general parts washing too.
I thought so to. That way the gasket spreads out to the ends, instead of wanting to crumple up in the centre. Like ironing a shirt from the centre out.
@@AdmissionGaming not saying he doesn't. Iv seen alot of his work with MCM and his own projects. But even with my own experience of doing head gaskets or helping out at proper workshops iv never seen anyone do it that way. I find it interesting an would like to know the method behind the madness
@@deepsouthlife8216 I would guess it was just a continuity error with the editing of the video. You see the change of camera angle. There is no way it's torqued end to middle.
@@deepsouthlife8216 Haha, I stand corrected! I just checked the 2 service manuals I have, one is a Haynes manual for a FG falcon which has the middle to outside in a spiral pattern, but the Gregory's manual for my old BA has the outside in sequence. I havent ever removed the head on either of my cars so never noticed the difference.
Modern engine oils do do a good job cleaning but you sometimes have to change the oil more often to get a cleaning effect. I recently had ZDDP oil in my car because my engine developed a bit of piston slap (from all of the oil leaking out from the rusted threads of the low oil pressure sensor, which didn't tell me by the way that I had low oil through its sensing abilities) and the ZDDP really helped eliminate most of the slap. It's a toyota 1z anyway it will run forever. Anyway, I had to change out the ZDDP oil in order to weld my cat back in since it's time for inspection, and after welding in my cat I was driving and realized I forgot to change the Zinc oil. Long story short the CEL turned off after about 100 miles of putting the cat back on, and then I changed the oil for fresh oil, and then after another 50 miles or so the CEL came back on and I was like greeeeat I just ruined this perfectly good cat. So I order a new cat from ebay and the day I order it the CEL turns back off. I guess I was lucky. Since the zinc works by coating surfaces it probably coated up the cat pretty good and then I was lucky enough that I switched the oil fast enough and I think the minor amount of zinc must have burned off the cat and let it start working again. You may ask what this has to do with detergent in modern oils being good at cleaning. Well I changed the oil twice in rapid succession to make sure I got all the zinc out and there was only 100 miles or so between the second and third oil change but it was already totally black. I've seen this before on youtube people explaining this. Sometimes you have to keep changing your oil every 50 or 100 miles until it stops coming out totally black because the engine oil can only hold so much carbon and debris before its saturated. So that's a very long way of saying that yes the oil will clean your engine but it might not get a chance to do so if you only change it every 5,000 miles.
One thing benny didn't mention is when you are tightening the cam caps down make sure the cams are pointing in the right direction and the bottom end is on its timing mark or you will likely bend a valve.
G'day Benny, Why do you tension the head starting from the outside bolts to the middle? I was always taught to start in the center and work clockwise toward the outside to push any length differential away from the center rather than to push to the middle . I'll qualify the question being that as a mechanic, I'm a good electrician! ie: I'm a weekend hobbyist! Thanks.
It's a shame we don't get Barras in Europe, they remind me a lot of my old school bimmer engines. Simple and yet very robust (given you fix some things like the m50 oil pump sprocket nut that backs off at high revs because no reverse threads ..). I also like the inline 6 setup in general, it's a bit long but everything is in the same castings
Hey mate is it common for them to leak oil threw the key way on the crank? Do you have to seal it before putting bolt on? What sealant do you use for that?
Plenty of tips and knowledge, thanks for the awesome vids. I use a 2mm tip gravity feed spray gun with sieved bicarb to "soda blast" dirty parts, they come up looking like new. Use a mask and do it outside somewhere, you can hit your hand no probs, but I use a welding glove (blowing air into your skin is no fun)
Who decides head torque patterns and why do similar engines have different patterns ? Sorry for the odd question but I had a few drinks and am genuinely interested in why.
Just depends on the manufacture and depends on the head gasket supplier. As long as your smart about it, it generally doesn’t matter what pattern you do as long as your evenly compressing the head down.
It's been a while since I've rebuilt a engine. It's so satisfying to bring life back into one. Bit of topic but I used to have a territory Barra non turbo and I've now gone to a diesel. I miss the Barra and will selling the diesel. I just dread things going wrong with it. Do you agree?
Benny I have a 06 BF Falcon XR6 that has a blown head gasket, can I do the job without pulling the engine, I ask this because the manual says to remove the sump when taking the front engine cover off, or is there a way around this. Thanks.
I want to slide one of these into a classic econoline pickup. Kind of like what the skid factory guys did with that van. Is it possible to get one in the states?
pretty sure meant to torque down from inside going out not out going in... if you could picture a piece of paper instead of a headgasket and u torque from out to in the paper will have a crease in the middle which is a high spot.. thats why we torque inside to out.. but it is what it is.
G'day Benny, any chance you can update the links to include the other parts used in this build? Sparesbox link had the gaskets & plugs, but what about the head studs, pump gears, valve springs, etc? And thanks for the content mate, always informative and to the point.
Spraying the head gasket with sealer lots of debate on the Interwebs, do you do this on your drag engine? And what's your experience with doing it to mlss gaskets, I thought it would be a good thing to do on my Subaru ? What spray did you use, Cheers
i was always told to NEVER put ANY form of sealer on a head gasket, and also i was told never to lubricate the head bolts as it can affect the torque settings, especially on engines with stretch head bolts.
Tell us benny, whats in your magic squirty bottle and do you literally clean everything with it (serious question) without fear of doing any harm? Ie is there anything you wouldn't use it on? Also wpuld be interestwd in a run down some time of all the various cleaning and sealing and gunking and lubing priducs you use in your shop. What types of consumables do what and what do you reccomend etc. Thanks!
You can, but it's not very common for them to leak if they are tight, they are a flange head bolt and seal really well against the sump. Common to see 1-2 bolts with a small weep around them on high km engines, but if you check them for torque they are usually well below spec from years of vibrations and thermal movement I've done quite a few sump "gaskets" on au i6 and a few barras engines, never used sealant on the cross bolts and no leaks 🤘
Strewth my comment came across the wrong way. I sounded like a bit of a seppo. I can assure you fellas I'm dinky-di Aussie tru blue. I guess I should have added that it is a shame that we no longer make stuff like this.
Interesting to see you using hylomar, I’ve heard so many joes saying not to. I thought it might have gone out of fashion or been superseded with these new mls gaskets PS what brand was that sealant you used on the sump? The application looked a lot easier than trying to squeeze the buggery out of a tube which sucks balls if you have arthritis
Shame it's so hard to get parts for a fairly modern solid inline 6 that has a factory manual flywheel in the States. When looking at power to cost I've pretty much got to the "just grab a rando LS or Ford V8 and call it a day" mindset. The result being a E36 95 Coupe with a turbo Ford 4.6l 32v DOHC making ~500hp at the wheels, a RWD converted 99 Celica with a 1GR V6 destroked and turbocharged making ~380hp at the wheels (opted for it over a RWD + turbo 4 cyl swap), and now an RX8 with a turbocharged 4.8l LS making 500hp again at the wheels. I have 2 other Celicas, a RWD with a LE5 destroked down with LNF parts and turbo and an AWD one using a fubar'd WRX as a donor for everything. Those cars are fun and fairly balanced but for raw power it's hard to beat the V8's or V6 in the 1GR's case (had a 1UZ lined up but sold the engine for a 1GR with built head and transmission so rip 1UZ). I had planned on using a turbocharged 2.3 Duratec inline 4 in the RX8 but I generally follow the "if I have something laying around already that gets the job done well then I'm using that" rule and I already had a handful of 4.8 engines.
So my question is, u say start outside and work your way in, the street machine video says start in the middle and work your way out, and street machine said 100ft/lb and you’re saying 110ft/lb, u mention different manufacturers do it differently, therefore does it really matter? Is close enough good enough
Benny, try as i might I've been unable to pause your videos in the right spot to work out what sealant you are using for putting the sump on etc. I remember it being mentioned in a previous video but I've been unable to locate the video. Please let me know the brand and type of sealant you are using. Cheers love the show
"Mild modifications, good for about 400kW at the wheels." Suddenly, I want a Barra in my life.
Easy , I got 400rwkw from an Atmo FG motor. Too bad the gearboxes can't keep up :).
Yup, I have a FG XR6T Falcon with factory Barra turbo, and 400rwkw is mild and can be done with stock valve springs and a completely unopened engine.
@@nordic5490 as soon as you hit ~15psi the stock springs will float I doubt you FG making 400kws will have stock spring and head studs
@@mg74xbgt the manual tr6060 is better for holding power than the zf right?
@@mg74xbgt they can if you don't have people tuning the auto who don't know what they are doing!
Benny i was doing a job at the Ford engine development centre in Geelong Victoria and mentioned you in conversation. They all knew who you were👍 pity i couldn't take photo's of the hand built prototype Barra sitting on an engine stand but it's going into the ford museum apparently
I’d love to go there . I’ve seen pics of the prototype engines but never seen one in person.
Is that the prototype dual cam au/barra hybrid they built, or were there others?
SuperRandykid yes that’s the one i’ve seen with blue rocker cover.
Internet rumors has it that one of those prototypes was sent to ford USA for funding approval to develop the barra, only for it to go missing and turn up a few years later in an old mustang
SuperRandykid no rumour, I have the photos.
"Just a mild build, only around 400 kW"
*cries in Subaru*
Can almost hear Alan calling out "nah mate wrinkle red"
Resplendent
Love the comedy of the 'breaking' oil pump gears 😅 Glad you left that in there 👍
Love the 91DA on the crank seal - EA/EB falcon parts represent!
bro i love watching your videos very detailed you are a legend
Good to see you using Hylomar. Way back in 1965 a mate was racing FJ at Symmons Plains and kept blowing head gaskets - I (as a smart alec 14yo) told him to use Hylomar which he finally did after a couple more race days and never blew another one. From memory he was running a 179 with high compression 149 head.
About the heating the block up with circulating hot water: I've heard about people assembling their engine and putting it in a powdercoating oven 👌
If you want to tighten your head studs/bolts to secure evenly torqued sealing surface, you start from center. Same goes for oil sump seal, port flange seals and valve cover seal. If you start from corner, it will twist the sealing surface to a propeller. When you tear the engine down, you start from corner, but when fastening nuts and bolts, always from the center out.
Agreed
Defs centre out. Not the other way around
Stickers don’t add HP unless installed correctly!!! ☺☺☺ I have to admit it's funny as well as consulting the psychologist ☺☺☺. Love your work Benny .
What an absolute champ this guy is!
You make it look so easy, even when you go into detail!
Well, that's one Barra that won't be leaking oil again any time soon! Wish I could say the same for mine, the floor of my garage looks like a Jackson Pollock painting.
Excellent video Benny, as always! Even if I'm watching in the background while I work, so calming just to have BCW, TSF, or MCM in my headphones.
So modest Benny!! Love your tubes.
pretty cool seeing how the yanks do it. the car scene over there is pretty crazy hey.
Great tunes in the video also :)
Benny is the man.
This episode has EXCELLENT groovy tunes
Thanks again BCW CANT WAIT TO SEE IT BACK IN THEE OLD UTE an on the dyno cheers Benny
Bennie, You need to look at a CRC Smartwasher! Will clean all the varnish off the oil pump housing sweet as and super easy! Plus they are great for general parts washing too.
Yeah I was always shown from centre out, in circular motion
Yes, that is the recommended sequence in every service manual. Same process for manifolds.
I thought so to. That way the gasket spreads out to the ends, instead of wanting to crumple up in the centre. Like ironing a shirt from the centre out.
Enjoying the content in general Benny, great work, just simple and fun to watch 👍
Makes me wanna rebuild my barra. Great work, thanks for sharing benny! 👌
loving the music this episode! sound like you've got the good years Chemical Bros in your pocket.
ETA: now it's later years Jamiriquoi-esque!
Benny champion man👍
First time iv seen end to middle on torquing head down.
Usually its middle to end, but I'd say ben knows what hes doing.
@@AdmissionGaming not saying he doesn't. Iv seen alot of his work with MCM and his own projects. But even with my own experience of doing head gaskets or helping out at proper workshops iv never seen anyone do it that way. I find it interesting an would like to know the method behind the madness
@@deepsouthlife8216 I would guess it was just a continuity error with the editing of the video. You see the change of camera angle. There is no way it's torqued end to middle.
@@bunky8077 he even said end to middle lol
@@deepsouthlife8216 Haha, I stand corrected! I just checked the 2 service manuals I have, one is a Haynes manual for a FG falcon which has the middle to outside in a spiral pattern, but the Gregory's manual for my old BA has the outside in sequence. I havent ever removed the head on either of my cars so never noticed the difference.
Awesome work as always Benny! Motor looks fantastic
Awesome video mate, really informative explained well
Well done there Benny. Legend
Modern engine oils do do a good job cleaning but you sometimes have to change the oil more often to get a cleaning effect. I recently had ZDDP oil in my car because my engine developed a bit of piston slap (from all of the oil leaking out from the rusted threads of the low oil pressure sensor, which didn't tell me by the way that I had low oil through its sensing abilities) and the ZDDP really helped eliminate most of the slap. It's a toyota 1z anyway it will run forever. Anyway, I had to change out the ZDDP oil in order to weld my cat back in since it's time for inspection, and after welding in my cat I was driving and realized I forgot to change the Zinc oil. Long story short the CEL turned off after about 100 miles of putting the cat back on, and then I changed the oil for fresh oil, and then after another 50 miles or so the CEL came back on and I was like greeeeat I just ruined this perfectly good cat. So I order a new cat from ebay and the day I order it the CEL turns back off. I guess I was lucky. Since the zinc works by coating surfaces it probably coated up the cat pretty good and then I was lucky enough that I switched the oil fast enough and I think the minor amount of zinc must have burned off the cat and let it start working again.
You may ask what this has to do with detergent in modern oils being good at cleaning. Well I changed the oil twice in rapid succession to make sure I got all the zinc out and there was only 100 miles or so between the second and third oil change but it was already totally black. I've seen this before on youtube people explaining this. Sometimes you have to keep changing your oil every 50 or 100 miles until it stops coming out totally black because the engine oil can only hold so much carbon and debris before its saturated. So that's a very long way of saying that yes the oil will clean your engine but it might not get a chance to do so if you only change it every 5,000 miles.
One thing benny didn't mention is when you are tightening the cam caps down make sure the cams are pointing in the right direction and the bottom end is on its timing mark or you will likely bend a valve.
Are the car magnets on the wall from like an Australian Rockauto? (4:00)
Yeah I think they are copied from that idea
G'day Benny, Why do you tension the head starting from the outside bolts to the middle? I was always taught to start in the center and work clockwise toward the outside to push any length differential away from the center rather than to push to the middle . I'll qualify the question being that as a mechanic, I'm a good electrician! ie: I'm a weekend hobbyist! Thanks.
Nice Smurf towel. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Wow, 91DA part number on the timing cover/crank snout seal.... good to see they have stuck to "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" hahaha
love your channel mate.
It's a shame we don't get Barras in Europe, they remind me a lot of my old school bimmer engines. Simple and yet very robust (given you fix some things like the m50 oil pump sprocket nut that backs off at high revs because no reverse threads ..). I also like the inline 6 setup in general, it's a bit long but everything is in the same castings
Same for the USA. Something other than the 2jz would have been nice.
Hey mate is it common for them to leak oil threw the key way on the crank? Do you have to seal it before putting bolt on? What sealant do you use for that?
Nice video - detailed content. Make it look easy.
Plenty of tips and knowledge, thanks for the awesome vids. I use a 2mm tip gravity feed spray gun with sieved bicarb to "soda blast" dirty parts,
they come up looking like new. Use a mask and do it outside somewhere, you can hit your hand no probs, but I use a welding glove (blowing air into your skin is no fun)
Do you use a gasket on the timing cover too ?
Who decides head torque patterns and why do similar engines have different patterns ? Sorry for the odd question but I had a few drinks and am genuinely interested in why.
Just depends on the manufacture and depends on the head gasket supplier. As long as your smart about it, it generally doesn’t matter what pattern you do as long as your evenly compressing the head down.
What was sprayed on the gasket? How long do you let that sit before fitting?
Hey Benny what's your cleaning spray?
Kombi Man brake cleaner, I just buy it in bulk now
Bräkleen by CRC works wonders too
Tom Ahoks That is brake cleaner.
It's been a while since I've rebuilt a engine. It's so satisfying to bring life back into one. Bit of topic but I used to have a territory Barra non turbo and I've now gone to a diesel. I miss the Barra and will selling the diesel. I just dread things going wrong with it. Do you agree?
That eBay notification got me excited 😂☹️
Good stuff Benny heaps of help here in no watching these videos
If your comfortable sharing I'd love to know the overall costs.
2k
I’d really like to know what all the greases sealants and sprays you use
Got to get you a new parts washer fella. Haha. Love it. Keep up the killer builds/vids
Apparently high flowing the oil pump is a good idea , open it up a lil let it flow , maybe ..
Your copyright at the end still says 2019
Great job Benny! What sort of silicone do you use for the sump and timing cover?
Benny I have a 06 BF Falcon XR6 that has a blown head gasket, can I do the job without pulling the engine, I ask this because the manual says to remove the sump when taking the front engine cover off, or is there a way around this. Thanks.
You can pull the front cover in the car , but best to loosen the sump bolts a little
Nice one
I think I just saw you on the news
What product did you spray on your head gasket before installing?
Awesome content Benny, when does this freshly rebuilt engine goes into your ute ?
Btw, what oil would you recommend for these engines ? Thanks
G'day benny, just wanted to no what spark plug gap you run?
On the ute 0.7mm on the Cresta .5 mm
Get up early to do the wheel bearing on my BA see Benny's Barra vid, put the job off.
what is the sanding block you use for cleaning up the mating surface?
It’s a stone
@@1953fords like a stone for sharpening knives?
Curious about where to get one myself being im about to do my head gaskets on the ol buick this weekend 🤔
reallybigfooted machinists use them when we make sure machined surfaces are flat and smooth. Some hardware stores or auto parts stores carry them.
reallybigfooted a knife sharpening stone will work as long as it’s flat and at least 4 inches long or so and a couple inches wide.
What's the grey Würth sealant I see you using, please?
Just a suggestion could we get the BHP Conversion of KW when you say KW. We in the UK use bhp lol. Your vids are awesome man 👍
Just remember 1kw is 1.34hp. So 100kw is 134hp. Or google works too.
I want to slide one of these into a classic econoline pickup. Kind of like what the skid factory guys did with that van. Is it possible to get one in the states?
Yes, Talk to dominator Motorsports!
Which is the best Barra engine to buy and how do I identify it ?
What did you call the stuff you sprayed on the headgasket ?
BFE 08 WRXSTI Hylomar spray
Ol'Bucket of Bolts Trick :D
pretty sure meant to torque down from inside going out not out going in...
if you could picture a piece of paper instead of a headgasket and u torque from out to in the paper will have a crease in the middle which is a high spot.. thats why we torque inside to out.. but it is what it is.
What sort of stone is that you're using to clean up the machined surfaces?
G'day Benny, any chance you can update the links to include the other parts used in this build? Sparesbox link had the gaskets & plugs, but what about the head studs, pump gears, valve springs, etc? And thanks for the content mate, always informative and to the point.
lol hoping you'll get 300kw benny? mines done 200k km with 300kw stock internals and 3576, you'll be atleast 350kw with a standard 3582 on 98
Where abouts do u get those stone surfacing blocks from?
what sump sealant did you use cheers
Wurth grey engine sealant
@@BennysCustomWorks cheers
What brand are those sockets you use with the 1/4" impact driver?
Hey Benny, what's the stone u use to deck the block?
Are BA turbo long blocks good for much other than boat anchors? Like would you waste your time rebuilding one or just look to source FG replacement?
Just get some pistons and rods from Spool, then good to go :D
apart from pistons and rods, they are nearly identical
Benny , I'm curious why you didn't paint the block when it was down to the long block to keep it from rusting?
What spray are you using on the gaskets, do you use it on all types of gaskets? What’s the benefit?
Skylark Camper hylomar spray
was this a turbo motor to begin with?
Yes FG1 turbo engine
Cheers, what kw could a turbo na hold with valve springs head studs and oil pump upgrade?
Cheers rob
@@RobDaBankz honestly there’s too many variables to say .
I wish I new how to do this👍
Spraying the head gasket with sealer lots of debate on the Interwebs, do you do this on your drag engine? And what's your experience with doing it to mlss gaskets, I thought it would be a good thing to do on my Subaru ? What spray did you use, Cheers
i was always told to NEVER put ANY form of sealer on a head gasket, and also i was told never to lubricate the head bolts as it can affect the torque settings, especially on engines with stretch head bolts.
Those golden sockets, are they the snap on, Repco, or kinchrome sockets?
Not sure on the brand but i bought them in Japan
Awesome job Benny, but watch out with your hands in the cleaner bucket.. they were white dry etc.. think about health 😉😬👌
What cleaning stuff did you have in the container, and what did you have in your spray bottle?
Just brake cleaner
@@BennysCustomWorks that's a huge amount of brake cleaner! How many aerosols did that take haha
Tell us benny, whats in your magic squirty bottle and do you literally clean everything with it (serious question) without fear of doing any harm? Ie is there anything you wouldn't use it on? Also wpuld be interestwd in a run down some time of all the various cleaning and sealing and gunking and lubing priducs you use in your shop. What types of consumables do what and what do you reccomend etc. Thanks!
Sam Dauncey hey mate, it’s non chlorine based brake cleaner .
@@BennysCustomWorks thanks!
Shouldn't You apply sealant under the "oil pan to main caps" bolts?
You can, but it's not very common for them to leak if they are tight, they are a flange head bolt and seal really well against the sump.
Common to see 1-2 bolts with a small weep around them on high km engines, but if you check them for torque they are usually well below spec from years of vibrations and thermal movement
I've done quite a few sump "gaskets" on au i6 and a few barras engines, never used sealant on the cross bolts and no leaks 🤘
Is 400kw at the wheels on 98 pump gas or E85? I recon I could live with 400kw on normal fuel.
98
Hey, What assembly lube are you using? Looks Black and Tacky,
Who makes that kinky handled ratchet? that looks pretty slick, i have never seen a speed wrench / ratchet combination.
ABMilwaukee Snapon
@@cropduster9571 ah there it is, FRSLF80, $175 USD... a bit rich for my shade tree ass.
Pretty cool to think that people in Australia were capable of designing and manufacturing these.
We aren’t convicts anymore ;)
They're not as dumb as you thought? Haha
Wow... that is the most American thing I have seen all day.
Strewth my comment came across the wrong way. I sounded like a bit of a seppo. I can assure you fellas I'm dinky-di Aussie tru blue. I guess I should have added that it is a shame that we no longer make stuff like this.
@@michaelbeattie6953 Mate our lot invented your wifi, a barra was just a side project.
What was the spark plug gap?
Thomas Bazza .71 mm
Interesting to see you using hylomar, I’ve heard so many joes saying not to. I thought it might have gone out of fashion or been superseded with these new mls gaskets
PS what brand was that sealant you used on the sump? The application looked a lot easier than trying to squeeze the buggery out of a tube which sucks balls if you have arthritis
Whens the next ep coming out??
Great video, like listening to all the helpful tips for engine work, does Moog do the music for your videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
Shame it's so hard to get parts for a fairly modern solid inline 6 that has a factory manual flywheel in the States. When looking at power to cost I've pretty much got to the "just grab a rando LS or Ford V8 and call it a day" mindset. The result being a E36 95 Coupe with a turbo Ford 4.6l 32v DOHC making ~500hp at the wheels, a RWD converted 99 Celica with a 1GR V6 destroked and turbocharged making ~380hp at the wheels (opted for it over a RWD + turbo 4 cyl swap), and now an RX8 with a turbocharged 4.8l LS making 500hp again at the wheels. I have 2 other Celicas, a RWD with a LE5 destroked down with LNF parts and turbo and an AWD one using a fubar'd WRX as a donor for everything. Those cars are fun and fairly balanced but for raw power it's hard to beat the V8's or V6 in the 1GR's case (had a 1UZ lined up but sold the engine for a 1GR with built head and transmission so rip 1UZ). I had planned on using a turbocharged 2.3 Duratec inline 4 in the RX8 but I generally follow the "if I have something laying around already that gets the job done well then I'm using that" rule and I already had a handful of 4.8 engines.
Strangely Ironic your shed must rock!
Nice job. I’ll never understand black motors, you can’t see the oil leaks
So my question is, u say start outside and work your way in, the street machine video says start in the middle and work your way out, and street machine said 100ft/lb and you’re saying 110ft/lb, u mention different manufacturers do it differently, therefore does it really matter? Is close enough good enough
Benny, try as i might I've been unable to pause your videos in the right spot to work out what sealant you are using for putting the sump on etc. I remember it being mentioned in a previous video but I've been unable to locate the video.
Please let me know the brand and type of sealant you are using. Cheers love the show
Graeme Nichols he’s using Wurth branded sealant, but Threebond would be fine
@@cropduster9571 cheers for that