BMW Service - K75/K100 Pre-Buy Inspection
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- If you are considering the purchase of a K75 (1986 ~ 1995) or a K100 (1985 ~ 1990) you need to perform this one simple task before you commit to purchasing the bike. Failure to do so could cost you over $1000.
![[Ep 18] So You Wanna Build a BMW K-bike - Sharing A Few Things I Learned](/img/n.gif)
What a superb video - this is something EVERY potential K75/100 buyer needs to know about. I have had my 1991 K100LT for 17 years now, it has 142,000 miles on the clock & I clean/lube the driveshaft EVERY time I change the rear tyre (5000ish miles). I also remove the shaft entirely & lube the front splines although they never seem to suffer from drying out so much. Keep up the good work!.
Thanks for this pretty in-depth video.
The fact that you included the torque specs in Nm is next level service from you, thank you!
All the best to you and yours, mate.
I bought my last K75 four years ago with a pretty good maintenance history. The bike had 63, 000 miles. At my first spline lube there was plenty of grease and very little wear. I cleaned and greased with Honda Moly 60. Great video and very, very helpful.
Its 2019 and you sir are a legend! Thanks for your precious advice! Going to pick a k100 in coming days!
Chris you are the MAN, I’m very thankful for all these videos you’ve made over the years ✊
Hi, The splines really need to be thoroughly cleaned and then lubricated. This can not be done properly without removal of the transmission. You can cheat and just slide the gearbox back but the labor that is saved is mere minutes. Thanks, Chris
Thanks for a great public service video. I did this service (and more) after I bought my 1985 K-bike and won the lottery. Everything looked excellent and I believe the very low miles on the clock was pretty accurate. I don't understand why you didn't pull the drive shaft and service the splines on the front too. That was a bit of a hassle, but this shade tree mechanic was able to do it. I encourage others to try, given that you often can't be sure it's done at the dealers. :-(
I just bought a 86 k100 yesterday and this morning I checked the splines. Luckily they had been serviced and look like new.
Thank you for the video.
That was a great year for the K75. Enjoy!
Thanks Chris- excellent video ( as usual ). As a longtime owner of an early K 100 have not had many if any issues until recently ( age ). While I have used Max's about the only choice I can find in my area ( CT ) I am less than thrilled with them the more I deal with them. Unfortunately not to many options in CT- at least that I am aware of so finding your videos here has been a big help in tackling jobs and getting to really know the ins and outs of the bike better. Thanks again hope you are able to keep doing these for all of us.
Make sure the horn works. If the horn does not work check the fuses. If the fuse is blown the cooling fan is likely seized. While not 'expensive' this defect would reduce the bikes value by up to $500. Point out to them that these instrument clusters were notorious for failing and the mileage might be inaccurate. Seized fan = many miles. If they are not willing to reduce the price ask to see the rear drive splines. If they are still unwilling then walk away unless it is an incredible deal. Chris
Great video, wish I had watched this before I bought my '88 K75S.
I know this is an old comment but take from someone who has done large miles on both when i say your hands and feet would thank you for going with the k75 over the 100 due tk vibrations
Thanks Chris! Very generous of you! I do plan on checking out all of your M/C videos.
steve
I've bought a k75 rt and completly dismantled the whole bike to check before use it.
you can lube the spline just by removing the rear drive and remove the axle.
lube it and reinstall it without removing the gearbox.
Excellent job. I wouldn't have attempted this job without this video. Keep up the great work.
Bought a '92 K75/RT from a friend and promptly rode it from AZ to TX pulling a small trailer. Never had an issue with the bike on that trip, just the trailer (leak in airbag suspension = tires rubbing on fenders at 60+ mph. BAD.) I did have splines checked when I had new tires put on the bike, and the local Old BMW's Guru pronounced them well maintained and in top shape. So got lucky there.
One thing I did notice (and Perry chewed me out on it) was that the clutch cable tension needs be adjusted ALL THE TIME. Doubly so if you ride it as if it had a wet clutch, because the K75's have a dry clutch. Ride it without feathering the clutch as much, and this is of course less of a concern.
Do not 'feather' the clutch. In or out and the clutch will last for over 100,000 miles. Good luck George and thank you for writing, Chris
that will be the day when I let a perspective buyer wrench my bike like that,,,,,lol
Exactly what I was thinking...it's more of a "pray and look at your recent purchase to see how much well you did".
Very helpful Thanks to you
My first thought also , all the money first before you put tools on it .
Thanks Ian. Your fuel leak was caused by years of use and failure to remove the fuel pump and clean the fuel tank innards each time the fuel filter was replaced. Good luck and thank you for your comment, Chris
Chris obviously knows his stuff. Had a red K75S and loved it. Starter motor died though, and was impossible to replace for reasonable money so it had to go.
Error 18
Not just any anti-seize. Fuckin' anti-seize. That's what you want. This video is fantastic.
Awesome video guys! Going to look at an 85 k100 tomorrow and this info will help me out greatly!
Thanks for replying Chris. My 75 is like a bloody 2 stroke sometimes, at least I now know it's nothing to about worry about. Should stop the silencer (muffler) rotting out anyhow.
That's the proper way to deal with that problem. 20w50 non-synthetic motor above freezing temps.
Glad I have the 85 with the bigger teeth...also only 23k on the bike also helps ;) will make sure to do this every tire swap! Thanks for the walkthrough!
Really helpful posting - going to look at a 93 75 tomorrow with 70k - not sure the seller will let me take apart to check though !
Hi Chris I've got a 1986 K75C with drum brake, would it be worth me getting a washer welded into the driveshaft?
No; just remove the rear drive at each tire change and lubricate the propeller shaft splines at that time. About every 8,000 miles.
@@ChrisR.Harris Cheers Chris 👍👍
I love your presentation, I came here expecting a dry and boring how-to video and got comical rants about fucktards not using copper anti-sieze and lying bastards not lubing splines in the drive. Informative and funny, good shit
I plan to get K100 model soon and i wish i cant checked like this before buying it but however, this is good point to know about K100 Thanks a lot Chris
You're the man Chris!
Good video, education for my restoration1985 K100
I fecking like this bloke! no bullshit!!!
I'm looking at an 1986 K75T with 25,000 miles. Looks to be in great shape. A buddy of mine who had one says the k75 was the best K model and all went to shit with they went to 4 cylinders re: K100. In your opinion which of the earlier models are the most maintenance free and dependable? The Boxers seem like they need more than the K's.
wasnt kidding about them eating splines. just checked a 95 with a 122,00K's i recently bought, the grease had turned into clay and there isnt much meat left on the spline at all. doesnt look like a fun repair.
thank so , that's too nice to make the others learn from you :) wish u so luck
I'd start with a check of the throttle body synchronization. K's can make a racket when out of synch. Are all the rubber vacuum caps in place and not split? Once the balance is correct if the noise still exists it could the the gear cluster at the back of the engine which is generally nothing to be too concerned about just irritating as the noise sounds like the engine is ready to grenade. Does the noise go away when the clutch lever is pulled in?
I read somewhere that one way to keep the grease where it should be is to plug the shaft with a rubber stopper. The idea being that the grease can't travel up the arm, away from the splines. What do you think of this idea? And if it's an option, what's the internal diameter of the shaft?
I had an '85 K100RT. I was the only owner. It never had it's rear drive separated from the swingarm in it's entire 158,000 mile life, and the drive never failed. I'm thinking it was likely ruined, but it still worked. Wish I would have had these videos back then. Why destroy a good bike?
This helps a lot, thanks.
dbuck -
1: I'm not surprised!
2: I've never used it. Thanks for the suggestion though I am quite happy w/ Staburags on the clutch splines your recommended Texaco product would be worth using on the driveshaft splines. As for the failure of your rear drive shock mounting: I have seen a couple bikes with bent shock mounting studs. This can lead to the problem you experienced. It's happened to me as well though the rear drive was not damaged. A low rider BMW handles like shit! Thanks, Chris
Love it. Don't change a thing.
Using Copper Anti Seize in the 4 Wheel Bolts will require a reduction of Approx. 25% of the applied torque.( Check with qualified Mechanic / Engineer.)
No, there's no reduction in torque required at 78 lb. ft. / 105 nm. My 30 years of BMW experience over your engineering degree: I have never had a lug bolt loosen and I have been coating these w/ copper paste per BMW's instructions since 1998. You obviously don't live in a wet area or use your vehicles during winter but thanks for your concern, Michael. If you reduce the torque by 25% (ie; to 18 newton meters) you WILL likely lose a wheel. That's a fate that a few have suffered by their own ignorance. God luck to you, I'm done; Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris
😁👍
Thank you Scott. I have a lengthy interview video planned. You'll need earplugs for the language, toothpicks to keep your eyelids open and smelling salts to keep from passing out. I promise to get this video series filmed and published within the next couple of months. Thank you for placing your foot firmly on my ass.
thankyou very much chris, kindest regards
hmmm ... it sounds like I should just take the tank apart and service it properly then. I'm being lazy really ... the pump works fine, I swapped the filter recently... just didn't want to disturb stuff that isn't broke. Right, I need to sort it out :-) Cheers, Ian
No, you can not. All that will do is get you to the driveshaft. You need to remove the transmission to clean and lubricate the transmission input shaft that the clutch hub splines ride on.
Great, keep us posted please.
This video is awsome thanks!
Outstanding stuff.
Thank you, Paul. There's more, of course so stay tuned, Chris
Chris, awesome video. I just bought a 1991 K100rs with 18,500 documented miles. I also got some of the service records. Just changed the fluids, but noticed that my 1991 model drive shaft is not the same. You mention in the video if it has the bottom arm, which mine does, the process is different. Do you have a video for that model as well? Would love to hear from you. Thanks.
Thanks Chris very much!
Nice going.
Great video. Well informed. Vomit inducing on the camera work. Slow down a bit. Check your in focus.
I'm surprised I filmed it at all. Perhaps I should yank it?!
@@ChrisR.Harris Sure who would care if you did. Typical big mouth parts changer trashing every other mechanic. Hopefully most Bmw guys stay away from you as the mechanic who constantly talks bad about EVERY other shop is usually the true hack.
Chris, did you use any kind of sealer on the flanges in reassembling the rear drive back onto the tube? I have a "rescue bike" that was neglected. Spline-check is next on the list.
Also, I discovered the fuel tank has a couple of pin-holes and some corrosion on the inside. Looking to give it the Caswell treatment, any suggestions would be highly valued.
as a how-to video this is good, but i would have to be high on several strong drugs before i would let a person of unknown skills/character start taking apart any bike that i have for sale.
anyway to tell if this could be an issue with a test ride? or does it have to be a visual inspection?
chris is there any way of telling if the final drive splines are fucked with a pre buy test ride? thanks dave from uk
+david kirkham No.
chris i am buying a used k100 56000 miles 1987 from a dealer hes not bmw it was supposed to have genuine
service history it was iffy to say the least only on receipt for main dealer 9 previous owners very tidy but very shinyi am wary its not been serviced properly and found a little emulsified oil inside oil plug ! hes offering a 3 month warranty he says he will strip the bevel box and photograph for me plus service oil change although his workshop not tidy tools everwhere.do i take apunt or grind the price down and do the work myself price was £1750 but i want £to pay£1500 what do you think?
Hey Chris, I'm looking at an 1985 K100 with 35k miles. It's at a used bike dealer, doubt I can tear it apart as described in your video. What other things should I look for and listen for on my test ride??? By the way, I am looking at this bike strictly as a tug for adding a sidecar to most likely a ural tub or a CSM tub ...
Unfortunately quite true. Another reason that I document my work w/ photos and video ;}
Great video Chris!!
I need to do some work in My1993 kLT 1100 the process would be similar?(I pressume U joints) will see.
thanks
40 ~ 50,000 miles. It is a miserable task on an R1200C or R1100S.
thank you
You're welcome.
I just bought one and need to know the engine number for the dmv. Do you know where it is located and how many numbers/letters it will be? thanks
Great.
it's very hard to follow the camera's movement !
Was wondering if you have ever had any experience of running these wet, as in pre paralever Airheads?
The housing is not sealed and the driveshaft rubber damper not rated for oil.
Are you familiar with Second wind BMW from Merrimack NH thats where I bought the bike.
I am indeed all too familiar with Second Wind BMW.
Spy ball?
That brake rotor is done.
Great vid tho.
Hi Chris, the rear brake of a K75 / K100 / K1100 is 10 - 15% of your braking power - virtually useless except for trail braking and in town stops. As long as the disc is not too thin it will work the same out back. Front brakes are a different matter as 85 to 90% of your stopping power is from the front and severely scored front brake discs will drastically increase your braking distance and can also create a lot of noise. Stay tuned for a lot more, Chris
grease with Staburag
Oh chris, back again.
Anyone familiar with the 1994 k75 BMW touring model spitting oil out of the exoste and dirty smelling smoke the bike has 92000 but the engine sounds really good and it runs smoothly lots of power as well if I can purchase it for $ 500.00 would it be worth the investment
$500 in parts easily
Im planning on buying a 1991 k100LT would i have to worry about this?
OMFG they didn't lube it ? Oh ya , I know that feeling :( .
Warning, don't watch thi video with your bright eyed and bushy tailed six year old lad! 🤣
Hi Chris !
I'm going to buy K75 from '89 in a week. Thanks for great video. I have a question - were they any noises or weird sounds in that particular model that can forecast that the shaft and splines are in bad condition ? I think it would be impossible in my case to unscrew the covers and wheel and look at the splines, so I was wondering if I could do some "ear diagnostics" :)
Greetings man - great job and videos
Thanks. The front end of the shaft does not get any wear as it does nice ride back & forth along the spline like the rear does when the suspension is compressed & released. Keep the maintenance up and you'll pass 200,000 mi. without any difficulty. The 1990's were the best years for K bikes. Enjoy, Chris
Indeed they are, provided that they are properly maintained. Please remember that there are thousands of these old K bikes on the streets all over the world, many with 300,000+ miles and no problems. But maintenance is the key to survival. Thanks for posting your question, Chris
Unbolt the top of the shock and let the rear drive come down until the tire touches the ground (or your lift). Then unbolt the bottom of the shock and remove the shock from the bike. If it is an OEM BMW shock throw it away and get a better one (Progressive, etc.).
My 93 K-75 with 14K on the clock.. but years sitting before I revived it - had the rear shock collapse. All loaded to go to colorado... came out in the morning, and blop.. Eventually bought the YSS Thai copy of the english shock, Good quality, The BMW shock.. not rebuildable. 25+ years and things just die.
Chris. Really great video thank you. I am considering a 92 K75 after riding my friend's down the autobahn at 125 MPH. The bike was solid as could be. Great technical information and I love how you used the F-bomb as a nown, verb, adjective, adverb and pro-nown. One question, should I use any copper anti-seize anywhere? LOL. You're videos are great. I want to get my splines replaced by Mr. Bruno!
Thanks Michael, the K75 is a good machine. Enjoy, more videos coming soon.
for some reason mechanics tend to hate their customers the 'people' and call them morons idiots and fckers all the time. While often its them whose only antiseize is an airgun. But i don't blame them, its safer then eg a lugnut coming off by itself eh? Anyway i personally use special wax based special paint instead of grease it soaks into metal protecting it.
I too purchased a k-100. It was a barn find It had a dry spline at 40,000 k.........I read the ingredients of never sieze, an they put moly grease in there. So....yup, I used it......I'll be taken the rear off again for a season inspection, I;ll post here with the results.
Interesting, when I called my local BMW dealer about having the splines lubed on my recently purchased 99 r1100rs, it was as if I was talking Chinese. He said no one brings their bikes in for that. So how do U trust them to do it?? Not
A dealer that does not want your money... that's different, be thankful but steer clear of the service department!
The R1100GS is one of the most reliable Oilheads made. Not as 'nice' as the 1150 but far more reliable and no failure-prone hydraulic clutch or the design flaw of the clutch carrier to deal with. Head gaskets were a problem with the early ones and there is always a risk that the tech who performed the 600 mi. service over-torqued the head bolts and pulled a stud from the block. This can be repaired but it is to be considered if you see drooling head gaskets. Rear drives are usually OK. Good luck
what's the things you need to know about a R1100 (259) motorcycle? does the paralever needs the same operation, lubing splines?
What about those 2 chains and their sprockets inside the block while having like 50K on them. the chain tensioners have become an update and you need to replace them, but how you know the chains & sprockets are bad as wel the 3rd chain in there.
What about if the clutch lever only grips in like the last 25/
Just got a 90 K75RT w/50,000mi. Saturday (3/9/13) and saw your video that night. Pulled it off today and...................you guessed it.......dry as a bone!!! The dealer in Palo Alto told the previous owner last year that it didn't need that service. Even on the left coast we've got lazy lying sons a bitches as well. Thanks for the great videos!!
Monterey Bob
Hi chris great my friend! Do the splines of the k75 and k100 sshared same number splines pre 86, respectivly post 86? I might buy some used bikes to make one good of 2 mediocres...any advice? Next tuesday i can buy a k100 for 1500dollars, the k75 for 750 dollars....do the wheels match, callipers, etc? I can imagine that not only the splines changed after 86? Question is: what parts are interchangeable betw k75 and k100? Does my gutt tell me that the only difference might be the motor? Or is this simplistic? As you read, im asking out of no experience with k models...its my first purchase kmodel...i seen lots of your videos, and am confident to do some checks and work myself, 😀i hope you very best from Belgium! I bring chocolats when im in states, you are gold amigo! Respect bob the Belgian
I have been looking for Copper anti-seize in Australia and have been unable to find it, is there anything that comes in second place?
Whooie, that's some education on the grammatical use of the word "fuck." Looks like you covered them all: adverbs; nouns; verbs; conjunctions; adjectives; and last but not least, gerunds. Oh, the vid was "fucking" awesome too.
Great tutorial. I'll use it to help service my K100. But, no one is going to disassemble my bike they are thinking about buying.....before they buy it. They would have to take me word for it or not buy it.
same here, just bought and old (new to me) 87 K100RT, and this video was invaluable, as were your others...you're a bloody gem, Chris...good on ya...I would also get my bike serviced by you if you ever move to Australia. Until then, I'll just have to keep watching your vids and doing my own wrenching. BTW, sprouting torque settings off the top of your head impresses the shit out of me!
Thanks for the video. I am looking at a craigslist buy for a 1985 K100 right now an will be meeting the guy hopefully tomorrow. I really want to buy it because it is only $1700. He told me he has to charge the battery and he is changing the oil. Is that a good price? Is this a good sign to buy it? It would be my first bike. I only owned BMW so I wouldnt mind sticking to BMW
Hello Chris, The 1985 model is the least desired as it is an oddball in several ways. I would not recommend it as a first motorcycle. There are better choices for a starter bike than BMW but the 1986 - 1996 K models were much better than the '85. Good luck, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris If you do not mind me picking your brain about what you said, what makes it least desirable as oppose to a 1986 or newer?
@@beamerandthebeast3979 A: Electrical issues are far more prevalent in the '85 model than any of the subsequent 10 years. B: The footpeg plates are different meaning that when you break one after dropping the machine on its side you will need to find a used replacement part for a model that was made just one year. C: The fiberglass tail section and seat were used only for that initial year. All others shared an improved design. D: Mechanical differences - while BMW kindly used rather hot performance cams for the first year of the K100 in the U.S. the engines had plenty of teething troubles and weak spots that were corrected in the 1986+ models. There's much more. Good luck, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris enough said!!! I owned a niche car in the past and realized the part finding problems and countless junkyard dives I had to do... I do not mind the electrical issues however, everything else i do mind! Thank you very much for helping me! I will be looking for an 86 or newer now :)
@@beamerandthebeast3979 A wise man you are ;)
What is the grease / spline lube brand he is saying at 0:51, other than Honda Moly? Stobberod’s? Stab-Her-Eyes? Schtahbberaghghssszzzz? LOL! I just CANNOT make out what he is saying, but he says it a LOT, and not knowing is driving me nuts! LOL! 😂😂😂
Staburags NPBU 30 PTM from Kluber: objects.eanixter.com/PD365996.PDF
Wonder how many owners have completed this service task...and again , and again with miles ?
Thanks. Service DVD's are planned for the very near future. As for bleeding servo brakes... I just remove/eliminate the servo unit. Complete junk.
Nice & funny video, but you need to find a better camera with real autofocus !
Or...just look at the maintenance log that everyone should have. Might safe everyone an afternoon.
How can I find you, I have a 1986 K75 that needs some help.
I have a 84 mod. When I do my splines I don't take the wheel off just to grease them.
I am about to purchase an 1987 K100 RS. There is no way I am going to get the seller to let me check the rear drive splines before purchasing. It's got 51K miles on it so I am hoping the splines aren't screwed. Am I crazy to buy it and lube the splines after I get her home?
If the seller is unaware if and when the driveshaft was replaced I'd expect the worst and negotiate the price down accordingly. Good choice of bike. Best of luck, Chris
if the splines are worn the shaft engages with a bit of a bang as you set off, mine eventually snapped as I was pulling out of a junction. the replacement was much quieter. 10 year old bike with 40k
Clearly explained and also very entertaining to watch. Colorful language, good for a few laughs!
That's my purpose; education with a tear in the eye! Stay tuned for more from me 2019, Chris
It never ceases to amaze me that people & dealers do not give the PROPER attention to such a critical and costly maintenance item, given all the knowledge through the years, of ruined drive lines! Just like the piss poor plastic original lower intake gaskets GM used on the 3100/3400 & 3800 V6 engines, you have to replace them with the aluminum framed GM or Fel-Pro gaskets. You are doing a super job with these videos!!!
Hi Chris,could you please explain how to inspect a final drive on a R1100 GS because I can't find any on UA-cam. Thanks.
How are the Splines on the NEWER K Bikes?!
Hee hee hee hee :) I hauled a Nissan way back when I was driving car carriers. This shit box had an alarm system and I had no key. The alarm is howling, the lights are all flashing. I get the turd loaded on to the truck and listen to the alarm for a few miles. Enough. Out w/ the break-in tools, into the car, remove every fuse in the fuse box = left headlight still flashing like the police! Fuck it! The dealership informed me that there was no way to stop the light unless I unplugged it! JUNK!!