Indeed they are, provided that they are properly maintained. Please remember that there are thousands of these old K bikes on the streets all over the world, many with 300,000+ miles and no problems. But maintenance is the key to survival. Thanks for posting your question, Chris
Thanks for this pretty in-depth video. The fact that you included the torque specs in Nm is next level service from you, thank you! All the best to you and yours, mate.
What a superb video - this is something EVERY potential K75/100 buyer needs to know about. I have had my 1991 K100LT for 17 years now, it has 142,000 miles on the clock & I clean/lube the driveshaft EVERY time I change the rear tyre (5000ish miles). I also remove the shaft entirely & lube the front splines although they never seem to suffer from drying out so much. Keep up the good work!.
I bought my last K75 four years ago with a pretty good maintenance history. The bike had 63, 000 miles. At my first spline lube there was plenty of grease and very little wear. I cleaned and greased with Honda Moly 60. Great video and very, very helpful.
It never ceases to amaze me that people & dealers do not give the PROPER attention to such a critical and costly maintenance item, given all the knowledge through the years, of ruined drive lines! Just like the piss poor plastic original lower intake gaskets GM used on the 3100/3400 & 3800 V6 engines, you have to replace them with the aluminum framed GM or Fel-Pro gaskets. You are doing a super job with these videos!!!
I had an '85 K100RT. I was the only owner. It never had it's rear drive separated from the swingarm in it's entire 158,000 mile life, and the drive never failed. I'm thinking it was likely ruined, but it still worked. Wish I would have had these videos back then. Why destroy a good bike?
Thanks. The front end of the shaft does not get any wear as it does nice ride back & forth along the spline like the rear does when the suspension is compressed & released. Keep the maintenance up and you'll pass 200,000 mi. without any difficulty. The 1990's were the best years for K bikes. Enjoy, Chris
I too purchased a k-100. It was a barn find It had a dry spline at 40,000 k.........I read the ingredients of never sieze, an they put moly grease in there. So....yup, I used it......I'll be taken the rear off again for a season inspection, I;ll post here with the results.
Hi, The splines really need to be thoroughly cleaned and then lubricated. This can not be done properly without removal of the transmission. You can cheat and just slide the gearbox back but the labor that is saved is mere minutes. Thanks, Chris
Most certainly! All BMW K models with this type of single sided swingarm should be inspected prior to purchase. The later Para-Lever rear suspension as found on the K1, 1992 K100RS, all K1100RS and K1100LT models do not need to be inspected. Thanks for your question, Chris
Make sure the horn works. If the horn does not work check the fuses. If the fuse is blown the cooling fan is likely seized. While not 'expensive' this defect would reduce the bikes value by up to $500. Point out to them that these instrument clusters were notorious for failing and the mileage might be inaccurate. Seized fan = many miles. If they are not willing to reduce the price ask to see the rear drive splines. If they are still unwilling then walk away unless it is an incredible deal. Chris
Unbolt the top of the shock and let the rear drive come down until the tire touches the ground (or your lift). Then unbolt the bottom of the shock and remove the shock from the bike. If it is an OEM BMW shock throw it away and get a better one (Progressive, etc.).
My 93 K-75 with 14K on the clock.. but years sitting before I revived it - had the rear shock collapse. All loaded to go to colorado... came out in the morning, and blop.. Eventually bought the YSS Thai copy of the english shock, Good quality, The BMW shock.. not rebuildable. 25+ years and things just die.
Thanks Ian. Your fuel leak was caused by years of use and failure to remove the fuel pump and clean the fuel tank innards each time the fuel filter was replaced. Good luck and thank you for your comment, Chris
Thanks for a great public service video. I did this service (and more) after I bought my 1985 K-bike and won the lottery. Everything looked excellent and I believe the very low miles on the clock was pretty accurate. I don't understand why you didn't pull the drive shaft and service the splines on the front too. That was a bit of a hassle, but this shade tree mechanic was able to do it. I encourage others to try, given that you often can't be sure it's done at the dealers. :-(
The R1100GS is one of the most reliable Oilheads made. Not as 'nice' as the 1150 but far more reliable and no failure-prone hydraulic clutch or the design flaw of the clutch carrier to deal with. Head gaskets were a problem with the early ones and there is always a risk that the tech who performed the 600 mi. service over-torqued the head bolts and pulled a stud from the block. This can be repaired but it is to be considered if you see drooling head gaskets. Rear drives are usually OK. Good luck
what's the things you need to know about a R1100 (259) motorcycle? does the paralever needs the same operation, lubing splines? What about those 2 chains and their sprockets inside the block while having like 50K on them. the chain tensioners have become an update and you need to replace them, but how you know the chains & sprockets are bad as wel the 3rd chain in there. What about if the clutch lever only grips in like the last 25/
same here, just bought and old (new to me) 87 K100RT, and this video was invaluable, as were your others...you're a bloody gem, Chris...good on ya...I would also get my bike serviced by you if you ever move to Australia. Until then, I'll just have to keep watching your vids and doing my own wrenching. BTW, sprouting torque settings off the top of your head impresses the shit out of me!
Couple of things. 1. I've never been a big fan of Max's. Just because I'm only 18 they blow me off at the rallies. 2. Ive always been a big fan of the old Texaco StarPlex. Use it for the splines, and on all the clutch throw-outs when i service airheads. Last, When my final drive failed on my k75 (housing broke and dropped the shock, causing the seat to hit the tire and roast my tail cowel) I picked up a used rear drive from Beemer Boneyard for about a hundred bucks. great video. love the fbombs
I've bought a k75 rt and completly dismantled the whole bike to check before use it. you can lube the spline just by removing the rear drive and remove the axle. lube it and reinstall it without removing the gearbox.
Going to check a K75RT from '95 today. Has 25k miles on it, dealer maintained. Hope i can enjoy it for a long time and i will use your advice, thank you very much for this upload.
Hi Bob, I hope the splines are in good condition at least! Use of Honda-Moly 60 on these splines (driveshaft) is OK w/ me so clean the splines and lay on a very heavy coat, reassemble and RIDE! Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it, Chris
Chris obviously knows his stuff. Had a red K75S and loved it. Starter motor died though, and was impossible to replace for reasonable money so it had to go.
Thanks Chris- excellent video ( as usual ). As a longtime owner of an early K 100 have not had many if any issues until recently ( age ). While I have used Max's about the only choice I can find in my area ( CT ) I am less than thrilled with them the more I deal with them. Unfortunately not to many options in CT- at least that I am aware of so finding your videos here has been a big help in tackling jobs and getting to really know the ins and outs of the bike better. Thanks again hope you are able to keep doing these for all of us.
Very useful and informative on several levels. Thanks for posting it. As others said, it's probably a rare seller who'd let a buyer do any wrenching on a bike, but an inspection of some sort seems mandatory.
Just got a 90 K75RT w/50,000mi. Saturday (3/9/13) and saw your video that night. Pulled it off today and...................you guessed it.......dry as a bone!!! The dealer in Palo Alto told the previous owner last year that it didn't need that service. Even on the left coast we've got lazy lying sons a bitches as well. Thanks for the great videos!! Monterey Bob
Hi Chris, I bought an '87 K75s last Feb and am slowly working through it - it's back on the road for the summer :-) I'm new to this spannering lark and your videos are brilliant, really helpful, please keep doing them. Next job is grease the clutch splines (having some pretty clunky gear changes), oh and there's a petrol leak on the left-hand-side of the fuel tank that I need to patch (was thinking petro-patch and JBWeld might do the trick on the outside of the tank), All the best, Ian
Awesome. It is possible that the previous owner fogged the cylinders with oil before putting the bike into storage. This is done to add a layer of protection to the cylinder walls while the bike is left in storage for an extended period. Thank the previous owner if you meet him again.
Para-Lever equipped bikes do not wear the splines of the driveshaft as 2 valve K bike do. The only issue with Para-Lever rear drives is that they are often not assembled correctly. A sign of that is a leaking pinion seal visible at the accordion boot between rear drive and swingarm but even this is not a problem. However, grasp the rear wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. See if you can find any play. If there is is needs to be rebuilt. If not check 3 & 9. Play there indicates play at the pivots.
Bought a '92 K75/RT from a friend and promptly rode it from AZ to TX pulling a small trailer. Never had an issue with the bike on that trip, just the trailer (leak in airbag suspension = tires rubbing on fenders at 60+ mph. BAD.) I did have splines checked when I had new tires put on the bike, and the local Old BMW's Guru pronounced them well maintained and in top shape. So got lucky there. One thing I did notice (and Perry chewed me out on it) was that the clutch cable tension needs be adjusted ALL THE TIME. Doubly so if you ride it as if it had a wet clutch, because the K75's have a dry clutch. Ride it without feathering the clutch as much, and this is of course less of a concern.
Amazing coincidence. I just purchased a 1985 K100RT (13K miles). I'm looking forward to working my way up the drive train. I've also order a new rear brake reservoir as the current one was eaten by mice! That' scopes the project I have ahead of me (but I'm looking forward to it!)
The old K bikes are great. Just check the rear splines and the cooling fan and negotiate the price accordingly. The K's require far less maintenance than the Airheads and Oilheads so that keeps the cost of ownership down. Good luck, Chris
I know this is an old comment but take from someone who has done large miles on both when i say your hands and feet would thank you for going with the k75 over the 100 due tk vibrations
I have removed the transmission to find the splines there bare as well along with even more comical mistakes. This bike is here for a complete spline lube, major service and fork seals (dealer replaced 3,000 miles ago and leaking!). More videos tomorrow most likely. Thanks, Chris
The driveshaft can be pulled rearward, pull past it's detent, and then lube the front part of the driveshaft spline. You can then shove it back into the long swingarm housing and nudge past it's detent.
Hi Chris ! I'm going to buy K75 from '89 in a week. Thanks for great video. I have a question - were they any noises or weird sounds in that particular model that can forecast that the shaft and splines are in bad condition ? I think it would be impossible in my case to unscrew the covers and wheel and look at the splines, so I was wondering if I could do some "ear diagnostics" :) Greetings man - great job and videos
Cool tx for the info and I will be replacing the tires and will have them check and take pic's of the splines so I can decide on if i want Bruno to redo them not picking it up till next year.
Glad I have the 85 with the bigger teeth...also only 23k on the bike also helps ;) will make sure to do this every tire swap! Thanks for the walkthrough!
I had a K75, beautiful bike, in like new condition. It was difficult to shift. Since this was my first bike, I sold it after 2 years and bought an Aprilia RSVR1000 with low mileage. After about 3 years I sold this bike, now I wan't a BMW touring bike.
Thanks for replying Chris. My 75 is like a bloody 2 stroke sometimes, at least I now know it's nothing to about worry about. Should stop the silencer (muffler) rotting out anyhow.
just spent some major coin on the correct gel battery for my k 100.....Chris I'll face book ya when I head up this summer. Ya can give me what I need to do...I know I need a pair of dust covers for the shocks...mine are split from age.....( I have them vinyl taped for now, don't laugh it works)
if the splines are worn the shaft engages with a bit of a bang as you set off, mine eventually snapped as I was pulling out of a junction. the replacement was much quieter. 10 year old bike with 40k
Chris. Really great video thank you. I am considering a 92 K75 after riding my friend's down the autobahn at 125 MPH. The bike was solid as could be. Great technical information and I love how you used the F-bomb as a nown, verb, adjective, adverb and pro-nown. One question, should I use any copper anti-seize anywhere? LOL. You're videos are great. I want to get my splines replaced by Mr. Bruno!
for some reason mechanics tend to hate their customers the 'people' and call them morons idiots and fckers all the time. While often its them whose only antiseize is an airgun. But i don't blame them, its safer then eg a lugnut coming off by itself eh? Anyway i personally use special wax based special paint instead of grease it soaks into metal protecting it.
I'm looking at an 1986 K75T with 25,000 miles. Looks to be in great shape. A buddy of mine who had one says the k75 was the best K model and all went to shit with they went to 4 cylinders re: K100. In your opinion which of the earlier models are the most maintenance free and dependable? The Boxers seem like they need more than the K's.
Listening to your video and I'm getting on sentimental for some reason. I then see the license plate portion of the video and see that you're from Mass/the Northeast where I grew up. Love the home swag buddy
dbuck - 1: I'm not surprised! 2: I've never used it. Thanks for the suggestion though I am quite happy w/ Staburags on the clutch splines your recommended Texaco product would be worth using on the driveshaft splines. As for the failure of your rear drive shock mounting: I have seen a couple bikes with bent shock mounting studs. This can lead to the problem you experienced. It's happened to me as well though the rear drive was not damaged. A low rider BMW handles like shit! Thanks, Chris
No, you can not. All that will do is get you to the driveshaft. You need to remove the transmission to clean and lubricate the transmission input shaft that the clutch hub splines ride on.
Chris i also saw your vids bout the k1.’’’amazing almost futuristic design and lowest windresistance...amazing, isnt it? The kmodels somehow are derived from this topnotch engineering...doing quite some downsising of its phenominal features...my k100 to buy has 45.000 miles on it...wish me luck!🤜😅🇧🇪
wasnt kidding about them eating splines. just checked a 95 with a 122,00K's i recently bought, the grease had turned into clay and there isnt much meat left on the spline at all. doesnt look like a fun repair.
hmmm ... it sounds like I should just take the tank apart and service it properly then. I'm being lazy really ... the pump works fine, I swapped the filter recently... just didn't want to disturb stuff that isn't broke. Right, I need to sort it out :-) Cheers, Ian
I had a k100rs great bike had to replace drive shaft once did myself toured Europe on it with son on back have Honda superblackbird now😁 enjoyed your vid 👍🏻
I read somewhere that one way to keep the grease where it should be is to plug the shaft with a rubber stopper. The idea being that the grease can't travel up the arm, away from the splines. What do you think of this idea? And if it's an option, what's the internal diameter of the shaft?
Hi chris great my friend! Do the splines of the k75 and k100 sshared same number splines pre 86, respectivly post 86? I might buy some used bikes to make one good of 2 mediocres...any advice? Next tuesday i can buy a k100 for 1500dollars, the k75 for 750 dollars....do the wheels match, callipers, etc? I can imagine that not only the splines changed after 86? Question is: what parts are interchangeable betw k75 and k100? Does my gutt tell me that the only difference might be the motor? Or is this simplistic? As you read, im asking out of no experience with k models...its my first purchase kmodel...i seen lots of your videos, and am confident to do some checks and work myself, 😀i hope you very best from Belgium! I bring chocolats when im in states, you are gold amigo! Respect bob the Belgian
Great tutorial. I'll use it to help service my K100. But, no one is going to disassemble my bike they are thinking about buying.....before they buy it. They would have to take me word for it or not buy it.
I did not enquire as to why the bike is not running. That's just what it said in the listing. I suppose that could also be an expensive problem. I will call tomorrow and ask.
Hi,I bought a K75 last year. The splines are shot! On the shaft AND the final drive. To repair the shaft,a BMW spares place here in England,charges £54.00 for a piece that just welds on,and I can get a really good final drive for £150.00. The k bike only cost me £300.00!
Chris Harris I wouldn't say that. It's been sat for 12 years! So far,new tank pump and filter and mesh,new fan. Having real trouble starting it. So,some suggested the fuel injection relay,as it dosnt idle,just floods.Take the plugs out and dry them and it does the same thing...What do you think?,be great if you knew. Fires ok,coils are fine,MAF ok,heat sensor plug ok...
Chris Harris Hmmm...how so could it be failed,Chris.The flap in is isn't stuck. I have to be honest,I'm not hot on these bikes as I only got it a few months ago. How could I test it? I've also been told that it could be the ecu.....it's a bit of a mine field...
Chris Harris I don't. Well,I know it's not stuck,as I took it out and moved the fin/door with my finger. Could the hanging sensor in it be dirty? I read that it can be sprayed with MAF spray. Is that right?
Very informative, thank you very much. So the main question is "When was drive shaft last serviced". If you do not have all those tools can you bring it too a bike shop and ask them to check it out?
I'd start with a check of the throttle body synchronization. K's can make a racket when out of synch. Are all the rubber vacuum caps in place and not split? Once the balance is correct if the noise still exists it could the the gear cluster at the back of the engine which is generally nothing to be too concerned about just irritating as the noise sounds like the engine is ready to grenade. Does the noise go away when the clutch lever is pulled in?
Thank you Scott. I have a lengthy interview video planned. You'll need earplugs for the language, toothpicks to keep your eyelids open and smelling salts to keep from passing out. I promise to get this video series filmed and published within the next couple of months. Thank you for placing your foot firmly on my ass.
Hi Chris. Man i spend hours watching your videos. THANK YOU Buddy . You are really good. Please would you be so kind tell if there is any sound or sign the splines can be damaged without disassembling it? Buying a 1993 K1100RS with 120.000 KMTS. No Service History. Is winter, can not drive the bike but started it on center stand and went through all gears but when I accelerate or (and) decelerate like suddenly i hear a knocking from the shaft. is it normal? APPRECIATED
Chris, awesome video. I just bought a 1991 K100rs with 18,500 documented miles. I also got some of the service records. Just changed the fluids, but noticed that my 1991 model drive shaft is not the same. You mention in the video if it has the bottom arm, which mine does, the process is different. Do you have a video for that model as well? Would love to hear from you. Thanks.
"Bastards!!!!!" I love it Chris. My R12c is right about at 30k, it's a 2001. Pretty sure no one has ever gone in there and checked the splines, when do you reccomend that check and or service lube?
Just picked up a 87 k100rt off my friend with 120,001 miles. Planning on making a cafe racer out of it. Your videos are an excellent source of information? Where in New England are you located? I'm out on Cape Cod.
Chris, very informative and entertaining video. Thanks On an '87 K100 once you get to the rear drive splines to inspect them can you simply pull the drive shaft from the housing to inspect other end of the shaft?
Interesting, when I called my local BMW dealer about having the splines lubed on my recently purchased 99 r1100rs, it was as if I was talking Chinese. He said no one brings their bikes in for that. So how do U trust them to do it?? Not
hi chris, great videos ive 3 k bikes in the garage, when you state grease the splines how much grease, do you apply to said splines. ive used honda moly 60 i just strip it down and lightly lube the splines, everytime i change the rear tyre. does this need to be packed with grease or just lightly greased. great videos, your the man kindest regards steve..
Indeed they are, provided that they are properly maintained. Please remember that there are thousands of these old K bikes on the streets all over the world, many with 300,000+ miles and no problems. But maintenance is the key to survival. Thanks for posting your question, Chris
Thanks for this pretty in-depth video.
The fact that you included the torque specs in Nm is next level service from you, thank you!
All the best to you and yours, mate.
What a superb video - this is something EVERY potential K75/100 buyer needs to know about. I have had my 1991 K100LT for 17 years now, it has 142,000 miles on the clock & I clean/lube the driveshaft EVERY time I change the rear tyre (5000ish miles). I also remove the shaft entirely & lube the front splines although they never seem to suffer from drying out so much. Keep up the good work!.
I bought my last K75 four years ago with a pretty good maintenance history. The bike had 63, 000 miles. At my first spline lube there was plenty of grease and very little wear. I cleaned and greased with Honda Moly 60. Great video and very, very helpful.
It never ceases to amaze me that people & dealers do not give the PROPER attention to such a critical and costly maintenance item, given all the knowledge through the years, of ruined drive lines! Just like the piss poor plastic original lower intake gaskets GM used on the 3100/3400 & 3800 V6 engines, you have to replace them with the aluminum framed GM or Fel-Pro gaskets. You are doing a super job with these videos!!!
I had an '85 K100RT. I was the only owner. It never had it's rear drive separated from the swingarm in it's entire 158,000 mile life, and the drive never failed. I'm thinking it was likely ruined, but it still worked. Wish I would have had these videos back then. Why destroy a good bike?
Thanks. The front end of the shaft does not get any wear as it does nice ride back & forth along the spline like the rear does when the suspension is compressed & released. Keep the maintenance up and you'll pass 200,000 mi. without any difficulty. The 1990's were the best years for K bikes. Enjoy, Chris
Its 2019 and you sir are a legend! Thanks for your precious advice! Going to pick a k100 in coming days!
Clearly explained and also very entertaining to watch. Colorful language, good for a few laughs!
That's my purpose; education with a tear in the eye! Stay tuned for more from me 2019, Chris
Fantastic to watch a vid by someone who really knows what they are talking about and can explain it in such precise detail.
Thanks so much mate!
I too purchased a k-100. It was a barn find It had a dry spline at 40,000 k.........I read the ingredients of never sieze, an they put moly grease in there. So....yup, I used it......I'll be taken the rear off again for a season inspection, I;ll post here with the results.
Hi, The splines really need to be thoroughly cleaned and then lubricated. This can not be done properly without removal of the transmission. You can cheat and just slide the gearbox back but the labor that is saved is mere minutes. Thanks, Chris
Most certainly! All BMW K models with this type of single sided swingarm should be inspected prior to purchase. The later Para-Lever rear suspension as found on the K1, 1992 K100RS, all K1100RS and K1100LT models do not need to be inspected. Thanks for your question, Chris
Make sure the horn works. If the horn does not work check the fuses. If the fuse is blown the cooling fan is likely seized. While not 'expensive' this defect would reduce the bikes value by up to $500. Point out to them that these instrument clusters were notorious for failing and the mileage might be inaccurate. Seized fan = many miles. If they are not willing to reduce the price ask to see the rear drive splines. If they are still unwilling then walk away unless it is an incredible deal. Chris
Unbolt the top of the shock and let the rear drive come down until the tire touches the ground (or your lift). Then unbolt the bottom of the shock and remove the shock from the bike. If it is an OEM BMW shock throw it away and get a better one (Progressive, etc.).
My 93 K-75 with 14K on the clock.. but years sitting before I revived it - had the rear shock collapse. All loaded to go to colorado... came out in the morning, and blop.. Eventually bought the YSS Thai copy of the english shock, Good quality, The BMW shock.. not rebuildable. 25+ years and things just die.
Thanks Ian. Your fuel leak was caused by years of use and failure to remove the fuel pump and clean the fuel tank innards each time the fuel filter was replaced. Good luck and thank you for your comment, Chris
Thanks for a great public service video. I did this service (and more) after I bought my 1985 K-bike and won the lottery. Everything looked excellent and I believe the very low miles on the clock was pretty accurate. I don't understand why you didn't pull the drive shaft and service the splines on the front too. That was a bit of a hassle, but this shade tree mechanic was able to do it. I encourage others to try, given that you often can't be sure it's done at the dealers. :-(
Chris you are the MAN, I’m very thankful for all these videos you’ve made over the years ✊
The R1100GS is one of the most reliable Oilheads made. Not as 'nice' as the 1150 but far more reliable and no failure-prone hydraulic clutch or the design flaw of the clutch carrier to deal with. Head gaskets were a problem with the early ones and there is always a risk that the tech who performed the 600 mi. service over-torqued the head bolts and pulled a stud from the block. This can be repaired but it is to be considered if you see drooling head gaskets. Rear drives are usually OK. Good luck
what's the things you need to know about a R1100 (259) motorcycle? does the paralever needs the same operation, lubing splines?
What about those 2 chains and their sprockets inside the block while having like 50K on them. the chain tensioners have become an update and you need to replace them, but how you know the chains & sprockets are bad as wel the 3rd chain in there.
What about if the clutch lever only grips in like the last 25/
same here, just bought and old (new to me) 87 K100RT, and this video was invaluable, as were your others...you're a bloody gem, Chris...good on ya...I would also get my bike serviced by you if you ever move to Australia. Until then, I'll just have to keep watching your vids and doing my own wrenching. BTW, sprouting torque settings off the top of your head impresses the shit out of me!
Couple of things. 1. I've never been a big fan of Max's. Just because I'm only 18 they blow me off at the rallies. 2. Ive always been a big fan of the old Texaco StarPlex. Use it for the splines, and on all the clutch throw-outs when i service airheads. Last, When my final drive failed on my k75 (housing broke and dropped the shock, causing the seat to hit the tire and roast my tail cowel) I picked up a used rear drive from Beemer Boneyard for about a hundred bucks. great video. love the fbombs
I've bought a k75 rt and completly dismantled the whole bike to check before use it.
you can lube the spline just by removing the rear drive and remove the axle.
lube it and reinstall it without removing the gearbox.
Going to check a K75RT from '95 today.
Has 25k miles on it, dealer maintained.
Hope i can enjoy it for a long time and i will use your advice, thank you very much for this upload.
Hi Bob,
I hope the splines are in good condition at least! Use of Honda-Moly 60 on these splines (driveshaft) is OK w/ me so clean the splines and lay on a very heavy coat, reassemble and RIDE! Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it, Chris
Chris obviously knows his stuff. Had a red K75S and loved it. Starter motor died though, and was impossible to replace for reasonable money so it had to go.
Error 18
Thanks Chris- excellent video ( as usual ). As a longtime owner of an early K 100 have not had many if any issues until recently ( age ). While I have used Max's about the only choice I can find in my area ( CT ) I am less than thrilled with them the more I deal with them. Unfortunately not to many options in CT- at least that I am aware of so finding your videos here has been a big help in tackling jobs and getting to really know the ins and outs of the bike better. Thanks again hope you are able to keep doing these for all of us.
I just bought a 86 k100 yesterday and this morning I checked the splines. Luckily they had been serviced and look like new.
Thank you for the video.
That was a great year for the K75. Enjoy!
Very useful and informative on several levels. Thanks for posting it. As others said, it's probably a rare seller who'd let a buyer do any wrenching on a bike, but an inspection of some sort seems mandatory.
Thank you,; stay tuned for more material soon, Chris
Just got a 90 K75RT w/50,000mi. Saturday (3/9/13) and saw your video that night. Pulled it off today and...................you guessed it.......dry as a bone!!! The dealer in Palo Alto told the previous owner last year that it didn't need that service. Even on the left coast we've got lazy lying sons a bitches as well. Thanks for the great videos!!
Monterey Bob
Hi Chris, I bought an '87 K75s last Feb and am slowly working through it - it's back on the road for the summer :-) I'm new to this spannering lark and your videos are brilliant, really helpful, please keep doing them. Next job is grease the clutch splines (having some pretty clunky gear changes), oh and there's a petrol leak on the left-hand-side of the fuel tank that I need to patch (was thinking petro-patch and JBWeld might do the trick on the outside of the tank), All the best, Ian
It's not just New England dealers that charge for work not done. There are plenty this side of the pond also. Nice video
Thanks Chris! Very generous of you! I do plan on checking out all of your M/C videos.
steve
that will be the day when I let a perspective buyer wrench my bike like that,,,,,lol
Exactly what I was thinking...it's more of a "pray and look at your recent purchase to see how much well you did".
Very helpful Thanks to you
My first thought also , all the money first before you put tools on it .
Thanks. Service DVD's are planned for the very near future. As for bleeding servo brakes... I just remove/eliminate the servo unit. Complete junk.
Not just any anti-seize. Fuckin' anti-seize. That's what you want. This video is fantastic.
Awesome. It is possible that the previous owner fogged the cylinders with oil before putting the bike into storage. This is done to add a layer of protection to the cylinder walls while the bike is left in storage for an extended period. Thank the previous owner if you meet him again.
No. The only time you'll actually disturb the ABS Speed Sensor gap is if you remove the sensor and lose a shim or many shims. Chris
Para-Lever equipped bikes do not wear the splines of the driveshaft as 2 valve K bike do. The only issue with Para-Lever rear drives is that they are often not assembled correctly. A sign of that is a leaking pinion seal visible at the accordion boot between rear drive and swingarm but even this is not a problem. However, grasp the rear wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. See if you can find any play. If there is is needs to be rebuilt. If not check 3 & 9. Play there indicates play at the pivots.
Bought a '92 K75/RT from a friend and promptly rode it from AZ to TX pulling a small trailer. Never had an issue with the bike on that trip, just the trailer (leak in airbag suspension = tires rubbing on fenders at 60+ mph. BAD.) I did have splines checked when I had new tires put on the bike, and the local Old BMW's Guru pronounced them well maintained and in top shape. So got lucky there.
One thing I did notice (and Perry chewed me out on it) was that the clutch cable tension needs be adjusted ALL THE TIME. Doubly so if you ride it as if it had a wet clutch, because the K75's have a dry clutch. Ride it without feathering the clutch as much, and this is of course less of a concern.
Do not 'feather' the clutch. In or out and the clutch will last for over 100,000 miles. Good luck George and thank you for writing, Chris
Warning, don't watch thi video with your bright eyed and bushy tailed six year old lad! 🤣
Amazing coincidence. I just purchased a 1985 K100RT (13K miles). I'm looking forward to working my way up the drive train. I've also order a new rear brake reservoir as the current one was eaten by mice! That' scopes the project I have ahead of me (but I'm looking forward to it!)
The old K bikes are great. Just check the rear splines and the cooling fan and negotiate the price accordingly. The K's require far less maintenance than the Airheads and Oilheads so that keeps the cost of ownership down. Good luck, Chris
The pinion splines can be rebuilt by Bruno Sax for $750 (as I recall) plus shipping and R&R labor.
Great video, wish I had watched this before I bought my '88 K75S.
I know this is an old comment but take from someone who has done large miles on both when i say your hands and feet would thank you for going with the k75 over the 100 due tk vibrations
Great video .Plain talking and easy to follow with the instuctions on how to inspect the drive splines
Excellent job. I wouldn't have attempted this job without this video. Keep up the great work.
I have removed the transmission to find the splines there bare as well along with even more comical mistakes. This bike is here for a complete spline lube, major service and fork seals (dealer replaced 3,000 miles ago and leaking!). More videos tomorrow most likely. Thanks, Chris
The driveshaft can be pulled rearward, pull past it's detent, and then lube the front part of the driveshaft spline. You can then shove it back into the long swingarm housing and nudge past it's detent.
Yes, certainly.
I am looking at buying a K75 and this is really insightful. Thanks. This was helpful.
+Gustavo Alverio Good luck
Hello Chris - thank you for some very informative videos. I have learned a lot watching them!
Great Finn, I'll have more in a few weeks.
Hi Chris !
I'm going to buy K75 from '89 in a week. Thanks for great video. I have a question - were they any noises or weird sounds in that particular model that can forecast that the shaft and splines are in bad condition ? I think it would be impossible in my case to unscrew the covers and wheel and look at the splines, so I was wondering if I could do some "ear diagnostics" :)
Greetings man - great job and videos
Cool tx for the info and I will be replacing the tires and will have them check and take pic's of the splines so I can decide on if i want Bruno to redo them not picking it up till next year.
Thank you guys for these informative vids on BMW K bikes!
Thanks for writing. More videos coming soon!
Glad I have the 85 with the bigger teeth...also only 23k on the bike also helps ;) will make sure to do this every tire swap! Thanks for the walkthrough!
I had a K75, beautiful bike, in like new condition. It was difficult to shift. Since this was my first bike, I sold it after 2 years and bought an Aprilia RSVR1000 with low mileage. After about 3 years I sold this bike, now I wan't a BMW touring bike.
Awesome video guys! Going to look at an 85 k100 tomorrow and this info will help me out greatly!
Thanks for replying Chris. My 75 is like a bloody 2 stroke sometimes, at least I now know it's nothing to about worry about. Should stop the silencer (muffler) rotting out anyhow.
That's the proper way to deal with that problem. 20w50 non-synthetic motor above freezing temps.
You're welcome. Good luck, Chris
Lots of grease on the driveshaft splines - very little on the transmission input shaft (where the clutch disc splines ride).
just spent some major coin on the correct gel battery for my k 100.....Chris I'll face book ya when I head up this summer. Ya can give me what I need to do...I know I need a pair of dust covers for the shocks...mine are split from age.....( I have them vinyl taped for now, don't laugh it works)
if the splines are worn the shaft engages with a bit of a bang as you set off, mine eventually snapped as I was pulling out of a junction. the replacement was much quieter. 10 year old bike with 40k
I love the videos. I wish you'd make a video about yourself. Your experience, were you learned to work on BMW's, etc.
Really helpful posting - going to look at a 93 75 tomorrow with 70k - not sure the seller will let me take apart to check though !
I would "probably" drill a hole where that rear bolt is for the saddlebag mount. That way, it can be removed without the removal of the rear fender.
Wonder how many owners have completed this service task...and again , and again with miles ?
Chris. Really great video thank you. I am considering a 92 K75 after riding my friend's down the autobahn at 125 MPH. The bike was solid as could be. Great technical information and I love how you used the F-bomb as a nown, verb, adjective, adverb and pro-nown. One question, should I use any copper anti-seize anywhere? LOL. You're videos are great. I want to get my splines replaced by Mr. Bruno!
Thanks Michael, the K75 is a good machine. Enjoy, more videos coming soon.
for some reason mechanics tend to hate their customers the 'people' and call them morons idiots and fckers all the time. While often its them whose only antiseize is an airgun. But i don't blame them, its safer then eg a lugnut coming off by itself eh? Anyway i personally use special wax based special paint instead of grease it soaks into metal protecting it.
I'm looking at an 1986 K75T with 25,000 miles. Looks to be in great shape. A buddy of mine who had one says the k75 was the best K model and all went to shit with they went to 4 cylinders re: K100. In your opinion which of the earlier models are the most maintenance free and dependable? The Boxers seem like they need more than the K's.
Listening to your video and I'm getting on sentimental for some reason. I then see the license plate portion of the video and see that you're from Mass/the Northeast where I grew up. Love the home swag buddy
NH
You're welcome. Enjoy the ride.
I love this video so much 😂 pure honesty.
dbuck -
1: I'm not surprised!
2: I've never used it. Thanks for the suggestion though I am quite happy w/ Staburags on the clutch splines your recommended Texaco product would be worth using on the driveshaft splines. As for the failure of your rear drive shock mounting: I have seen a couple bikes with bent shock mounting studs. This can lead to the problem you experienced. It's happened to me as well though the rear drive was not damaged. A low rider BMW handles like shit! Thanks, Chris
No, you can not. All that will do is get you to the driveshaft. You need to remove the transmission to clean and lubricate the transmission input shaft that the clutch hub splines ride on.
Chris i also saw your vids bout the k1.’’’amazing almost futuristic design and lowest windresistance...amazing, isnt it? The kmodels somehow are derived from this topnotch engineering...doing quite some downsising of its phenominal features...my k100 to buy has 45.000 miles on it...wish me luck!🤜😅🇧🇪
Excellent, thanks awfully! PS You probably know that in the U?K we call it "copperslip."
Thank You. This was very informative for us newbies.
You are most welcome. See my Patreon page for my most recent and future material: www.patreon.com/user?u=25101320
wasnt kidding about them eating splines. just checked a 95 with a 122,00K's i recently bought, the grease had turned into clay and there isnt much meat left on the spline at all. doesnt look like a fun repair.
hmmm ... it sounds like I should just take the tank apart and service it properly then. I'm being lazy really ... the pump works fine, I swapped the filter recently... just didn't want to disturb stuff that isn't broke. Right, I need to sort it out :-) Cheers, Ian
I had a k100rs great bike had to replace drive shaft once did myself toured Europe on it with son on back have Honda superblackbird now😁 enjoyed your vid 👍🏻
Thank you Mark!
I read somewhere that one way to keep the grease where it should be is to plug the shaft with a rubber stopper. The idea being that the grease can't travel up the arm, away from the splines. What do you think of this idea? And if it's an option, what's the internal diameter of the shaft?
You're the man Chris!
I have a 84 mod. When I do my splines I don't take the wheel off just to grease them.
Hi Chris,could you please explain how to inspect a final drive on a R1100 GS because I can't find any on UA-cam. Thanks.
Hi chris great my friend! Do the splines of the k75 and k100 sshared same number splines pre 86, respectivly post 86? I might buy some used bikes to make one good of 2 mediocres...any advice? Next tuesday i can buy a k100 for 1500dollars, the k75 for 750 dollars....do the wheels match, callipers, etc? I can imagine that not only the splines changed after 86? Question is: what parts are interchangeable betw k75 and k100? Does my gutt tell me that the only difference might be the motor? Or is this simplistic? As you read, im asking out of no experience with k models...its my first purchase kmodel...i seen lots of your videos, and am confident to do some checks and work myself, 😀i hope you very best from Belgium! I bring chocolats when im in states, you are gold amigo! Respect bob the Belgian
Great tutorial. I'll use it to help service my K100. But, no one is going to disassemble my bike they are thinking about buying.....before they buy it. They would have to take me word for it or not buy it.
Dry, damaged or worn splines often have no abnormal audible note until a failure occurs so no help there unfortunately.
I did not enquire as to why the bike is not running. That's just what it said in the listing. I suppose that could also be an expensive problem. I will call tomorrow and ask.
Hi,I bought a K75 last year. The splines are shot! On the shaft AND the final drive. To repair the shaft,a BMW spares place here in England,charges £54.00 for a piece that just welds on,and I can get a really good final drive for £150.00.
The k bike only cost me £300.00!
Andy, you got yourself a cheap bike that is easy to repair... enjoy!
Chris Harris I wouldn't say that. It's been sat for 12 years! So far,new tank pump and filter and mesh,new fan. Having real trouble starting it. So,some suggested the fuel injection relay,as it dosnt idle,just floods.Take the plugs out and dry them and it does the same thing...What do you think?,be great if you knew. Fires ok,coils are fine,MAF ok,heat sensor plug ok...
@@Soggz7785 How do you know the mass airflow sensor is good? Flooding is a symptom of a failed unit.
Chris Harris Hmmm...how so could it be failed,Chris.The flap in is isn't stuck. I have to be honest,I'm not hot on these bikes as I only got it a few months ago. How could I test it? I've also been told that it could be the ecu.....it's a bit of a mine field...
Chris Harris I don't. Well,I know it's not stuck,as I took it out and moved the fin/door with my finger. Could the hanging sensor in it be dirty? I read that it can be sprayed with MAF spray. Is that right?
Very informative, thank you very much. So the main question is "When was drive shaft last serviced". If you do not have all those tools can you bring it too a bike shop and ask them to check it out?
I have been looking for Copper anti-seize in Australia and have been unable to find it, is there anything that comes in second place?
I'd start with a check of the throttle body synchronization. K's can make a racket when out of synch. Are all the rubber vacuum caps in place and not split? Once the balance is correct if the noise still exists it could the the gear cluster at the back of the engine which is generally nothing to be too concerned about just irritating as the noise sounds like the engine is ready to grenade. Does the noise go away when the clutch lever is pulled in?
Hi Chris I've got a 1986 K75C with drum brake, would it be worth me getting a washer welded into the driveshaft?
No; just remove the rear drive at each tire change and lubricate the propeller shaft splines at that time. About every 8,000 miles.
@@ChrisR.Harris Cheers Chris 👍👍
Thank you Scott. I have a lengthy interview video planned. You'll need earplugs for the language, toothpicks to keep your eyelids open and smelling salts to keep from passing out. I promise to get this video series filmed and published within the next couple of months. Thank you for placing your foot firmly on my ass.
Hi Chris. Man i spend hours watching your videos. THANK YOU Buddy . You are really good. Please would you be so kind tell if there is any sound or sign the splines can be damaged without disassembling it? Buying a 1993 K1100RS with 120.000 KMTS. No Service History. Is winter, can not drive the bike but started it on center stand and went through all gears but when I accelerate or (and) decelerate like suddenly i hear a knocking from the shaft. is it normal? APPRECIATED
thank so , that's too nice to make the others learn from you :) wish u so luck
Chris, awesome video. I just bought a 1991 K100rs with 18,500 documented miles. I also got some of the service records. Just changed the fluids, but noticed that my 1991 model drive shaft is not the same. You mention in the video if it has the bottom arm, which mine does, the process is different. Do you have a video for that model as well? Would love to hear from you. Thanks.
"Bastards!!!!!" I love it Chris. My R12c is right about at 30k, it's a 2001. Pretty sure no one has ever gone in there and checked the splines, when do you reccomend that check and or service lube?
Just picked up a 87 k100rt off my friend with 120,001 miles. Planning on making a cafe racer out of it. Your videos are an excellent source of information? Where in New England are you located? I'm out on Cape Cod.
Chris, very informative and entertaining video. Thanks On an '87 K100 once you get to the rear drive splines to inspect them can you simply pull the drive shaft from the housing to inspect other end of the shaft?
Interesting, when I called my local BMW dealer about having the splines lubed on my recently purchased 99 r1100rs, it was as if I was talking Chinese. He said no one brings their bikes in for that. So how do U trust them to do it?? Not
A dealer that does not want your money... that's different, be thankful but steer clear of the service department!
hi chris, great videos ive 3 k bikes in the garage, when you state grease the splines how much grease, do you apply to said splines. ive used honda moly 60 i just strip it down and lightly lube the splines, everytime i change the rear tyre. does this need to be packed with grease or just lightly greased. great videos, your the man kindest regards steve..