Good video for a start. Now a part 2 of actually tuning one on a big caliber such as 338 lapua would help more. It would also be beneficial to see how the setup with say a load that shoots 285 grain bullets vs say 225 grain bullets reacts on the recoil with the same setup on the top plugs (screws as Jered says). Good information to have prior to lock tightening.
Just bought a Fat bastard and cannot be happier, can wait to go set it up this sunday. This video is great and I love the "dont overthink it" attitude of your Cie, will definitely buy again from you guys! F yea!!!
Hey, that's just some straight talk, matter-of-fact and to the point. I appreciate it. Just purchased the Gen 2 version of this item for my RPR .300 PRC (which was also just purchased); had seen a previous video from someone who had his configuration set with the two back screws out, and the second-from-front left screw out--and that worked for him. So Jered, you ain't bullshitting by telling us "it's what works for YOU!" Excited about my purchases and looking forward to figuring out how I'm going to arrange mine.
Just got mine in for 338 RPR. Beautiful brake, up to and including even the packaging it comes in. Very professional looking. Installation and range test to follow.
The whole rock setting thing seems like you are not only stuck with that brake for that gun, you also can't re develope your loads because that can sometimes significantly effect recoil. Does it stay in place without rock set?
Seems somewhat presumptuous to expect that for a given rifle, only one type and bullet weight of ammunition will ever be used, and that therefore muzzle rise would be fixed for all the ammunition to be fired in the gun. Certainly recoil energy and velocity will change with bullet weight; would not muzzle rise likewise change? Shouldn't you test with all the ammunition you foresee using, and keep a record of how many screws are appropriate to each loading?
To some extent. There’s only so many on each side. What I’ve found twice is uneven number out on each side. Find that fairly common. You play with the ports until there’s very little reticle to target movement. With smaller calibers, there’s VERY LITTLE movement .260Rem & 5.56. Top notch, only brake I’ll buy anymore. Install is stupid simple.
@@ExplorersWorkbench I took all the screws out and my .300 is like a sniper , only thing that comes with using a muzzle break is you better have ear plugs , or you’ll lose your hearing
Perfect timing of this “revelation”. Going to improve this thing even better.
Good video for a start. Now a part 2 of actually tuning one on a big caliber such as 338 lapua would help more. It would also be beneficial to see how the setup with say a load that shoots 285 grain bullets vs say 225 grain bullets reacts on the recoil with the same setup on the top plugs (screws as Jered says). Good information to have prior to lock tightening.
Just bought a Fat bastard and cannot be happier, can wait to go set it up this sunday. This video is great and I love the "dont overthink it" attitude of your Cie, will definitely buy again from you guys!
F yea!!!
Sure would’ve been nice to know this when I bought the brake almost 2 yrs ago.😂
Hey, that's just some straight talk, matter-of-fact and to the point. I appreciate it. Just purchased the Gen 2 version of this item for my RPR .300 PRC (which was also just purchased); had seen a previous video from someone who had his configuration set with the two back screws out, and the second-from-front left screw out--and that worked for him. So Jered, you ain't bullshitting by telling us "it's what works for YOU!" Excited about my purchases and looking forward to figuring out how I'm going to arrange mine.
I got several of these breaks. They are awesome
Just got mine in for 338 RPR. Beautiful brake, up to and including even the packaging it comes in. Very professional looking. Installation and range test to follow.
When I tried to tune mine on my 16" AR-10, the muzzle seemed to rise with them all in and still rise with none in.. I'll have to try again.
Is this done by free recoiling the rifle or managing it as we traditionally do?
I was wondering the same thing.
Might wanna drop mag & open bolt if you’re gonna stand in front of your rifle
The whole rock setting thing seems like you are not only stuck with that brake for that gun, you also can't re develope your loads because that can sometimes significantly effect recoil. Does it stay in place without rock set?
They do stay in place without Rocksett.
Seems somewhat presumptuous to expect that for a given rifle, only one type and bullet weight of ammunition will ever be used, and that therefore muzzle rise would be fixed for all the ammunition to be fired in the gun. Certainly recoil energy and velocity will change with bullet weight; would not muzzle rise likewise change? Shouldn't you test with all the ammunition you foresee using, and keep a record of how many screws are appropriate to each loading?
I seen videos that you could adjust for left and right. Is that true?
To some extent. There’s only so many on each side. What I’ve found twice is uneven number out on each side. Find that fairly common. You play with the ports until there’s very little reticle to target movement. With smaller calibers, there’s VERY LITTLE movement .260Rem & 5.56. Top notch, only brake I’ll buy anymore. Install is stupid simple.
How well do these work on an AR-10 w the bolt mass recoil
I love yalls products they’re the best
So serious.
I put the muzzle break from yall on a .300 win mag and there’s no recoil or muzzle rise
Did you keep the screws out?
Just got one for a 300 win mag and am curious about the screws.
@@ExplorersWorkbench I took all the screws out and my .300 is like a sniper , only thing that comes with using a muzzle break is you better have ear plugs , or you’ll lose your hearing
@@pecanpielsd4412 awesome! I cant wait to ry it out this week.
@pecanpielsd4412 Did you just hand tighten the brake with Rocksett? Any torque needed?
5 screws was the number for my AR10 in 6.5 CR.