Great question! Since it was a high-resistance feed, the voltage at the cluster was much lower than battery voltage 12V. This causes electronics to do some very weird stuff, like oscillating between on and off, never falling asleep. By the time I got the truck, the wire was basically a complete open circuit, which is why no parasitic draw was recorded!
And to extend his answer: if the resistance of a wire increases, it will need more power for the Radio and in combination with the on/off switching problems of the modules, it will drain a battery faster because more Amps are needed for the same Voltage. Soldering can cause other problems and to prevent moisture to get into the pin again to cause trouble, I spray a little bit of wax into it to seal it.
@@Spelter Sorry but your hypothesis is wrong, you assume the increase of resistance increases current draw which is not the case in this example. In this case the increase in resistance causes the circuit to miss the voltage to put it to sleep. This is more likely the scenario without the actual schematic.
@@publicmail2 oh, OK. I learned some time ago that when your device needs ie 12v and 1amp aka 12 watts, it would increase when there is a corroded wire and it would need ie 2 amps or 24 watts. In that case, the whole system is acting up because the drop of the power and surged as much as it could get to work properly, killed the battery while doing that. Of course it could be otherwise, I could learned a wrong thing there.
@@Spelter think about the voltage drop across the green crusty, which decreases the available voltage for the intended load. The total steady current in the circuit would drop. However, since now the module can't go to sleep, you will end up with a parasitic draw 👍
Ivan may not be a surgeon but he cured the Ram insomnia problem in typical Ivan fashion. I only had one slight beef with the job...….. You did not charge enough Ivan. Thanks again Brian W.
My OCD was screaming 'fix the bonnet (hood) light..'. That would have made a great bonus feature and allowed full closure for us 'special' types. Thanks Ivan.
Perfect fix ! Time taken to investigate is mandatory to a high quality repair. No parts, just solder, cleaners and di-electric grease concluded the problems. More proof that the factory should be using di-electric grease more often with their poor terminations/crimps. The cause of this problem was poor design, nothing more.
I noticed at 3:26 when you shut the engine off, the tach did not drop to 0. Nice work finding the problem. The OCD part of me was glad you did not have to run a wire and could find and fix the issue.
John, I was thinking the same thing..."no, don't just run another wire over there... you can find this!" Good job to Ivan - he seems to always prevail!
Nice work Ivan very impressive and I admire your persistence. Wiring connectors and the associated wiring connection points seem to be the biggest problem in vehicles. Lesson reaffirmed pay close attention to visual inspection of any and all connectors on the vehicle. Ivan very much appreciate you taking the time and I'm sure it is a lot of time to make this video you are an awesome individual!!
I was a keen electronics hobbyist, and was given a cassette player/recorder (can you remember?) to repair a fault which presented as noise on playback, but when 'tapped', disappeared. I ended up finding a 'break' in the shielding earth wire leading to the record/playback head. It was difficult to access without total disassembly, so I soldered in a jumper wire along side the cluster.. Fixed.. I absolutely love your videos, as many electronic faults arise in the automotive field still needing our knowledge and experience...
Well let's see, we knew you were good, we knew Chrysler can have wiring issues, so I guess we learned to be sure you have the right wire before splicing a jumper wire in to the harness, as always nice job Ivan and outside at night, you can't tell from this video but those of us who have tried this sort of thing know it's much harder in the dark
Good job Ivan. Saved another Chrysler TIPM/IPM from the green crustys, to die another day. A very helpful video for others chasing similar problems. Keep up the good work!
Know I'm a little late but, the lights and engine changing is the grid heater cycling. It cycles every time you restart and it draws lots of juice. Just FYI... good video!
The dimming of the lights is the vehicle doesn’t turn on the alternator in the first like 30 seconds while the grid heater is cycling on and off. If you watch the voltage gauge you will notice it. It does cause the engine sound to change as the relays come on and off with the electrical load
Great video. I always like to find where the fault in the wire is. If a wire is broken somewhere then it’s possible there is also other wires damaged in that area as well. Depends on accessibility though I guess. There are some sections of harness that are near impossible to get to without major work like pulling an engine or something and a jumper wire would be ideal in those situations. I just like to put my eyes the problem area just to make sure there would be no possibility of the bare/broken wire shorting out on something and causing more damage.
Just now seeing this Ivan. Fixed my headlight traced to switch problem! Now fixing my fog lights, lol! Thank you for your step by step diagnostics, great video!!
Great job finding out your wire break,. As a fellow troubleshooter, you have great skills in logical diagnosis...Keep those Crusties at bay with Deoxit and Dyelectric grease.
Great job sticking with the proper pin and fuse hunting. I like to drown every connector and pin with dielectric when I find and fix or even if I remove and reconnect any connection.
Great patients at finding the fault and not just making the jumper. Wondering how big a hole do the wire probes make and how do you fill the holes. Thanks ivan
Also 1 of your videos help me fix my no start on my van. It was the no start BMW I think. with the bad ignition switch. I definitely gave u props at the end of my video. So thanks.
Ivan, I have a similar expensive Fluke clamp on ammeter and I have found you can't trust the values you get when using it as a milli-ammeter. When you use it to read very small current values it's not as accurate as when you use a dvom actually inserted into the circuit and placed in a milliamp scale. I have been lead down the wrong path using the fluke to measure very small currents and it took an actual milliamp meter to show me that the values on the fluke were not correct.
Right, to read mA, it is better to hook an ammeter in series but most multimeter have a fuse (10A?) that will blow when you don't have control of how much current would go thru the multimeter.
Most generally from my experience in situations like this, yes, the DVOM has a 10A ceramic fuse, but when dealing w a parasitic draw, you won't come anywhere near the 10 amps. You pretty have to turn the key to start position (which I've done by accident and blew the fuse). But even turning headlights on you're pretty much always still safe.
John; I agree that you cannot rely on the accuracy of a meter (of just about any sort) when you are working at the very bottom of the scale. When using a clamp on meter in this situation there is a trick you can use to get around this problem. Take some fairly heavy insulated wire (say 14 or 12 gauge) and make a small 10 turn coil sized so that you can conveniently clamp the jaws of the clamp meter through the hole in the middle of the coil. Wrap it in electrical tape so the coil holds its shape. Leave a foot or so of wire on each end of the coil to act as a lead in and put a fuse (say about 30 amps) into one of the coil leads. Lift the battery negative terminal and connect one end of the 10 turn coil to the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the battery terminal clamp on the end of the battery negative wire. Clamp the meter jaws around the 10 turn coil. What you have done is increase the sensitivity of the clamp meter by a factor of 10. The Fluke 325 that Ivan is using has DC current ranges of 40 amps and 400 amps. It is an auto-ranging meter so at low currents it will switch to the 40 amp range which we have now converted to a 4 amp range and the readings will be significantly more reliable. You do have to remember to shift the decimal point in the reading if the actual value of the current is important to you. If you do exceed 4 amps of current the meter will just change ranges automatically to its 400 amp range which, with the 10X sensitivity increase, will actually be a 40 amp range. You can of course make a coil of 100 turns to increase the sensitivity by a factor of 100 (400 MA full scale on the 40 amp range of the meter) but you will have to use a smaller size wire (maybe about #18) and a smaller size fuse (maybe about 5 amp). This way if you accidentally blow the fuse it is a cheap automotive fuse rather than the expensive and harder to find ceramic fuse in your multi-meter.
Ivan presses the map light lense, and it falls off.. I had to laugh as a Dodge owner. GENTLY, Ivan! Treat them gently. BTW, good on you that you saved the tiny female connector. I keep them in stock, in 20-16 and 18 metric sizes. By the time I see them, they are generally toast and cannot be salvaged.
That was an awesome find! Had a similar situation couple days ago on a Chevy Colorado,4x4 inop. Backprobing a wire @ xfer case cont mod I had power. Down @ shifting motor, I didn't. Like I said, BACKPROBING @ the module I had power, piercing the wire just off the mod, I didn't..... figured out the female terminal inside the plug had spread an lost connection. Again, AWESOME find! :)
I was yelling at you to be very careful as you were fiddling around with the map lights as the passenger map light is also broken on my 2000 2500. Just as I was saying "don't hit that side too hard" … it broke off on you.
I am so happy to live on the west coast, you can keep all those corroded vehicles. I have had a few come through here from your area, and they were real badly corroded everywhere. Dielectric keeps water out, I go through allot of it. Oregon has very wet conditions, but, not as much road salts. The big hazard in rural Oregon is not the water, it's the six foot deep, six foot wide ditch with no shoulder. If you blink, you will need a new vehicle, as the vehicle will almost always get overturned. Every few decades Dodge makes a mistake and produces a great vehicle, the older trucks were lacking the "Party Mode" crap, and I really like the 95 dually, it's been bulletproof.
I’m having a hard time getting my head around how an open, caused by a corroded terminal, is causing an intermittent parasitic draw and killing the battery. I can’t help but believe you cured a problem other than the original concern.
Potentially, but throughout his entire diagnostic process no odd drains showed up which would indicate another issue... so it would be so random that he'll have to give it back to the customer and let him report back. But I believe he got it because this system is dependent on the cluster telling modules to go to sleep, so while this wire was making and breaking connection I'm betting the interior lights and other modules on the circuit kept coming on at random times throughout the night and randomly killing the battery. Notice how every time he gave the circuit power the lights inside came on, even with the doors closed and key out? That failing pin would act very similar and would keep resetting that 15min timer.
I bet once he got com again, the truck had U codes for the BCM and/or cluster, thus proving the point that the cluster module couldn't go to sleep, and hence, the small draw.
7 min in. Need to Check the i.o.d fuse.... now to watch rest of video ... found it at 14 min. Came back and found bad wire at 28-29 min. This fuse is for the cluster, radio, headlights etc memory or ability to turn on without the key in ignition and can be pulled up to temporarily stop battery draw. Can’t recommend wd40 on electrical. Use specific electrical cleaner etc. My son’s 2003 had no lights etc. Pulled the 51 fuse. It looked good but I put another one in anyway and system worked. Will check more in am. Also If you happen to see an ant in the fuse box they liked to live there and cause havoc. They Destroyed one in another truck .. same for water well contacts. 1 ant outside can mean thousands inside. Good detailed video. Recommend starting with fuse box first and note a good fuse will read on both sides even when wire is damaged or connection is buggered up
Some years ago, when Ford Australia introduced the XD Falcon (much the standard 6 cylinder (V8 option) family car) in 1979, plastic components (fuel tank, instrument cluster, dash board) were extensively fitted. For the first time, extensive 'earthing' was required in the wiring loom which fed the lights, radio, instrument cluster, amongst other functional items. The design incorporated an additional 10 Amp earth lug to the negative of the battery, and when you replaced the battery, you happen to forget to connect it, as I'm sure a few 'DIY' owners did, the instrument cluster would 'flicker', giving false readings throughout, as it had a 10 Volt supply from a 12 Volt feed via a resistor in series with a 10 Volt zener diode.. I was called to try and fix it, and not before removing the instrument cluster, and the owner insisting the battery was correctly connected ("You know, it starts, so it must be right.."), I found the 10 Amp earth lug and connected it... Fixed....
I had water in a wiper switch do this once, there is a bit of power in some cars backed to the column switches from things like the hazards. And it would randomly start going. Weirdest thing ever. Come to find out, it was nothing but a leak getting into the switch. I've seen quite a few vehicles with issues like this. Usually moisture/liquid related obviously in the corrosion issues.
In dash connection problems also occur...bad solder joints and plastic wiring connectors that don't fit tight into circuit board connectors because of differing expansion rates in the plastic components, allows the metal connectors to chatter (make and break contact) International trucks had this problem and caused all sorts of weird results, including having the engine shutdown when the power to the electric fuel solenoid got interrupted. Loose connections and salt water corrosion do crazy things. Can't wait to see the results with electric vehicles versus road salt ! Any atmospheric venting of those electric motors will end up bad...very bad.
Man Ivan you are one smart cookie. I suppose a bad connector is easier to repair than a broken wire somewhere in a jungle of wires. I have a Tacoma and had wiring damages because of squirrels. If you are not aware...HONDA makes a special type of electrical tape that is an excellent deterrent against rodent damage. I had my local Toyota dealer tape all my underhood wiring with it.
I had a dodge pick em up for 11 years, purchased new. And I learned not to mess with the light switches inside or on the dash. If you did you could never figure out how to get them to go off by themselves or come on when you needed them. NEVER push the lights in to turn them off or they will not work in any setting. This overrides the smart light control system. Weird but true
Hmmmmm, party mode and pissed off mode, what about OMG mode, LMAFO MODE!!!! 😂🤣😄 , I'm sorry but you can't make this stuff up, you can't you just can't!!!!
Key Off before fix, tach at 500rpm. Once power was restored, tach below zero with Key Off. The BCM on Dodge Trucks/Rams were also dog turds causing various faults including headlights, interior lights, door locks, and power window issues in the Driver’s left footwell, lots of green crusties in those connectors.
Anonymous98 on my cousins moms Ford F-150 the dealership charged her $5000 for the whole harness and labour because they couldn’t find the short to ground
milkman 99.100 + you are correct, my Dad has the similar truck but in the - MEGA CAB MODEL, when it is cold it does the cycling on and off until it reaches temperature and then it stops. But I did notice on his truck the battery on the left is being charged more then the one in the right, like 15 volts steady, I need to research on that to see if it is normal or what??
That "weird slider deal" is so the vehicle can be parked on the lot with the hood open and the underhood light stays off and the fuse stays in the vehicle.
only one seriously corroded wire in that large connector. that's life in the rust belt for you. & why I use so much silicone grease on my own vehicles.
иван привет, я думаю можно было воспользоваться кабель трекером, сильно экономит время при поиске обрыва цепи. правда он работает только когда провод полностью висит в воздухе и не звонится на массу или плюс. бывает и так, что окислы во влажной среде начинают создавать напряжение сами по себе, тогда кабель трекер может работать некорректно. есть нюансы в общем, но вещь крайне полезная. всего доброго!
I see you are using a Fluke amp meter, did your Craftsman one crap out? How good does that Fluke work for current checking pretty good? Isn't it fun figuring out wiring problems when the manufacturer runs two wires of the exact colors in the same harness?
Yeah the Craftsman amp clamp was drifting a lot. Fluke is a lot better in stability. However it's actually not as user-friendly as the Craftsman was...always defaults to "AC", and beeps annoyingly on the "Ohms" scale!
A huge amount of patience, perseverance and skill win the day. But NPR ? Seems to me the spritzes of Deoxit and the dab of solder ought to be worth $150. 😁 Just tugging your chain Ivan...well done as usual.
make sure you have the exact OEM nuts that secure your battery wires to your battery. it has to be the exact one from the factory or they lose connection. my batteries were dying slowly no matter what, and dodge replaced the nut and it fixed the problem.
Nice job finding it. Son 04 Durango battery goes dead after sitting for 12 to 24 hours! New alternator and battery. Can't find the draw, your video may have given a few ideas!
When I first seen this, I thought the radio because I noticed it didn't work. And radios can cause parasitic draw if it's having issues internally with power transistors because of the memory input being a power point on modern stereos. And ignition controlling the gate/base on internal MOSFET/Transistors. Same as computers. Third basic component of course would have been the alternator diodes. I see that a lot.
The dome lights might actually be drawing power if left on but they go off. I have a blown dome light and it drained my battery cause it looked off but was on.
I've had that exact wire break/corrode behind the battery from touching the battery bracket in a 1500. Same symptoms except there was no battery draw I don't think.
Great job did you fix fob working on doors or did it just work after wire repair I have same problem on Dodge Durango 2006 batteries dies but everything works ok except fob all fuses that have par draw on are all labeled Fcm where do I start
This was just a reminder that if you have problems with chrysler electronics you have a bad connnection somewhere or the TIPM is not working properly. Seeing more and more of these designs here in Italy these days :)
Hey man I’m currently going through this issue right now with my 04 1500. I’ve pulled the plugs to the TIPM, no green crusties, the grounds look fine. I’ve done so much I can’t even remember what else there is. If you’re down, could we possibly set up a phone call or even maybe a FaceTime, so you can possibly assist me on this problem? You seem to be the only person on the internet with a detailed enough description of the problem and I’ll be willing to pay for your time.
Ivan Google Truck lite NYK 77 electrical compound. Amazing stuff believe me. Trust me ..snowplow mechanic up here in NYS, Also PLEASE show yourself sealing those tiny holes your piercing tools you put into the harnesses. Clear nail polish works amazing for this and a lot less sloppy than liquid electrical tape. Nice work as usual though. TIPM's suck.....
Everyone should do what you do on UA-cam you show how to check everything with issue good job I'm following this guy he's kewl have a good day RAMFAM#1
Thank you for the video! Good work on the diagnostics and repair! Questions: how does corrosion at a + wire causing parasitic draw? Thank you!
Great question! Since it was a high-resistance feed, the voltage at the cluster was much lower than battery voltage 12V. This causes electronics to do some very weird stuff, like oscillating between on and off, never falling asleep. By the time I got the truck, the wire was basically a complete open circuit, which is why no parasitic draw was recorded!
And to extend his answer: if the resistance of a wire increases, it will need more power for the Radio and in combination with the on/off switching problems of the modules, it will drain a battery faster because more Amps are needed for the same Voltage.
Soldering can cause other problems and to prevent moisture to get into the pin again to cause trouble, I spray a little bit of wax into it to seal it.
@@Spelter Sorry but your hypothesis is wrong, you assume the increase of resistance increases current draw which is not the case in this example. In this case the increase in resistance causes the circuit to miss the voltage to put it to sleep. This is more likely the scenario without the actual schematic.
@@publicmail2 oh, OK. I learned some time ago that when your device needs ie 12v and 1amp aka 12 watts, it would increase when there is a corroded wire and it would need ie 2 amps or 24 watts. In that case, the whole system is acting up because the drop of the power and surged as much as it could get to work properly, killed the battery while doing that. Of course it could be otherwise, I could learned a wrong thing there.
@@Spelter think about the voltage drop across the green crusty, which decreases the available voltage for the intended load. The total steady current in the circuit would drop. However, since now the module can't go to sleep, you will end up with a parasitic draw 👍
One of the best videos I've seen on troubleshooting parasitic draw. No ego, best of anything, just good ole fashioned troubleshooting. Thank you.
Thanks Rob 🙂
Ivan may not be a surgeon but he cured the Ram insomnia problem in typical Ivan fashion. I only had one slight beef with the job...….. You did not charge enough Ivan. Thanks again Brian W.
My OCD was screaming 'fix the bonnet (hood) light..'. That would have made a great bonus feature and allowed full closure for us 'special' types. Thanks Ivan.
No matter how many times I watch this kind of diagnosis, I find it absolutely amazing. Well done Ivan!
Me as well and I understand very little. Fascinating though.
Perfect fix ! Time taken to investigate is mandatory to a high quality repair. No parts, just solder, cleaners and di-electric grease concluded the problems. More proof that the factory should be using di-electric grease more often with their poor terminations/crimps. The cause of this problem was poor design, nothing more.
You Sir are a Great Tech! What a fine job. Truly a pleasure watching a pro in action!
I noticed at 3:26 when you shut the engine off, the tach did not drop to 0. Nice work finding the problem. The OCD part of me was glad you did not have to run a wire and could find and fix the issue.
It was pretty imperative that he did because if not the green crusties would have kept growing and started infecting other circuits.
Good eye! I only noticed this after reviewing the camera footage :)
John, I was thinking the same thing..."no, don't just run another wire over there... you can find this!" Good job to Ivan - he seems to always prevail!
Nice work Ivan very impressive and I admire your persistence. Wiring connectors and the associated wiring connection points seem to be the biggest problem in vehicles.
Lesson reaffirmed pay close attention to visual inspection of any and all connectors on the vehicle.
Ivan very much appreciate you taking the time and I'm sure it is a lot of time to make this video you are an awesome individual!!
Thanks Dave! Can't believe that all the symptoms were tied to the same problem. It's like killing 10 birds with one stone! :)
36:42 What did we learn? Eliminate all possibilities and options before running a new wire. 😁 Great video Ivan.
Been binge watching all your videos, i always learn a little something from them.
NPR! Amazing how often you can fix something with no extra down time, and no extra parts costs. Good as new Ivan!
I was a keen electronics hobbyist, and was given a cassette player/recorder (can you remember?) to repair a fault which presented as noise on playback, but when 'tapped', disappeared. I ended up finding a 'break' in the shielding earth wire leading to the record/playback head. It was difficult to access without total disassembly, so I soldered in a jumper wire along side the cluster.. Fixed.. I absolutely love your videos, as many electronic faults arise in the automotive field still needing our knowledge and experience...
"Oh chrysler" that made all my week lol hahahahahahaha
Indeed
Nice one, Ivan. A good demonstration of walking through some clear thinking.
Great diagnostic lesson Ivan. Things are rarely as they seem. Thank you for taking the time to produce this (and all) your video(s).
Well let's see, we knew you were good, we knew Chrysler can have wiring issues, so I guess we learned to be sure you have the right wire before splicing a jumper wire in to the harness, as always nice job Ivan and outside at night, you can't tell from this video but those of us who have tried this sort of thing know it's much harder in the dark
Good job Ivan. Saved another Chrysler TIPM/IPM from the green crustys, to die another day.
A very helpful video for others chasing similar problems. Keep up the good work!
Wow, great work parasitic draw can be elusive and tricky to identify. Learned some great troubleshooting techniques on this
Lol @ "oh, Chrysler." I noticed that the window controller in the door was broken. Dodge quality for sure.
Yeah I thought that too. Pushing a button and most of the control disappears
I really enjoy seeing how to track down a wiring probem. Great video Ivan.
Know I'm a little late but, the lights and engine changing is the grid heater cycling. It cycles every time you restart and it draws lots of juice. Just FYI... good video!
The dimming of the lights is the vehicle doesn’t turn on the alternator in the first like 30 seconds while the grid heater is cycling on and off. If you watch the voltage gauge you will notice it. It does cause the engine sound to change as the relays come on and off with the electrical load
Great video. I always like to find where the fault in the wire is. If a wire is broken somewhere then it’s possible there is also other wires damaged in that area as well. Depends on accessibility though I guess. There are some sections of harness that are near impossible to get to without major work like pulling an engine or something and a jumper wire would be ideal in those situations. I just like to put my eyes the problem area just to make sure there would be no possibility of the bare/broken wire shorting out on something and causing more damage.
That would be hell. Who designed it that way? I hated Ford on an Escape V6 3.0 for the Bank 1 Cat, replacing it is hell.
Just now seeing this Ivan. Fixed my headlight traced to switch problem! Now fixing my fog lights, lol! Thank you for your step by step diagnostics, great video!!
Horray Roxanne! Time to celebrate! Feels good to finally figure it out :)
Great job finding out your wire break,. As a fellow troubleshooter, you have great skills in logical diagnosis...Keep those Crusties at bay with Deoxit and Dyelectric grease.
Great job sticking with the proper pin and fuse hunting. I like to drown every connector and pin with dielectric when I find and fix or even if I remove and reconnect any connection.
I have just recently found your channel and am fascinated how you enjoy working in the dark.
I don't know about you, but I do my best work in the dark. 😋
@@davidgrisco1939 gigidy
Wait until summertime. He'll do it in the dark, and with no shirt on!
Great patients at finding the fault and not just making the jumper. Wondering how big a hole do the wire probes make and how do you fill the holes. Thanks ivan
Also 1 of your videos help me fix my no start on my van. It was the no start BMW I think. with the bad ignition switch. I definitely gave u props at the end of my video. So thanks.
Corrosion. The damage it can do to wiring! Good fix!
Knowledge and patience are what it takes to perform automotive wiring diags.
Ivan, I have a similar expensive Fluke clamp on ammeter and I have found you can't trust the values you get when using it as a milli-ammeter. When you use it to read very small current values it's not as accurate as when you use a dvom actually inserted into the circuit and placed in a milliamp scale. I have been lead down the wrong path using the fluke to measure very small currents and it took an actual milliamp meter to show me that the values on the fluke were not correct.
Right, to read mA, it is better to hook an ammeter in series but most multimeter have a fuse (10A?) that will blow when you don't have control of how much current would go thru the multimeter.
Most generally from my experience in situations like this, yes, the DVOM has a 10A ceramic fuse, but when dealing w a parasitic draw, you won't come anywhere near the 10 amps. You pretty have to turn the key to start position (which I've done by accident and blew the fuse). But even turning headlights on you're pretty much always still safe.
John; I agree that you cannot rely on the accuracy of a meter (of just about any sort) when you are working at the very bottom of the scale. When using a clamp on meter in this situation there is a trick you can use to get around this problem. Take some fairly heavy insulated wire (say 14 or 12 gauge) and make a small 10 turn coil sized so that you can conveniently clamp the jaws of the clamp meter through the hole in the middle of the coil. Wrap it in electrical tape so the coil holds its shape. Leave a foot or so of wire on each end of the coil to act as a lead in and put a fuse (say about 30 amps) into one of the coil leads. Lift the battery negative terminal and connect one end of the 10 turn coil to the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the battery terminal clamp on the end of the battery negative wire. Clamp the meter jaws around the 10 turn coil.
What you have done is increase the sensitivity of the clamp meter by a factor of 10. The Fluke 325 that Ivan is using has DC current ranges of 40 amps and 400 amps. It is an auto-ranging meter so at low currents it will switch to the 40 amp range which we have now converted to a 4 amp range and the readings will be significantly more reliable. You do have to remember to shift the decimal point in the reading if the actual value of the current is important to you. If you do exceed 4 amps of current the meter will just change ranges automatically to its 400 amp range which, with the 10X sensitivity increase, will actually be a 40 amp range.
You can of course make a coil of 100 turns to increase the sensitivity by a factor of 100 (400 MA full scale on the 40 amp range of the meter) but you will have to use a smaller size wire (maybe about #18) and a smaller size fuse (maybe about 5 amp). This way if you accidentally blow the fuse it is a cheap automotive fuse rather than the expensive and harder to find ceramic fuse in your multi-meter.
Ivan presses the map light lense, and it falls off.. I had to laugh as a Dodge owner. GENTLY, Ivan! Treat them gently. BTW, good on you that you saved the tiny female connector. I keep them in stock, in 20-16 and 18 metric sizes. By the time I see them, they are generally toast and cannot be salvaged.
That was an awesome find! Had a similar situation couple days ago on a Chevy Colorado,4x4 inop. Backprobing a wire @ xfer case cont mod I had power. Down @ shifting motor, I didn't. Like I said, BACKPROBING @ the module I had power, piercing the wire just off the mod, I didn't..... figured out the female terminal inside the plug had spread an lost connection. Again, AWESOME find! :)
Wow great find Brian! Pin fitment issues can be the hardest to track down for sure.
6:11 Ah, Chrysler, and I thought Ivan was starting to swear.
I was yelling at you to be very careful as you were fiddling around with the map lights as the passenger map light is also broken on my 2000 2500. Just as I was saying "don't hit that side too hard" … it broke off on you.
I thought so too!
It's swearing all right
Great video and brilliant tracing of the wiring. Still the Czar Ivan in my book. Thanks Ivan!
I am so happy to live on the west coast, you can keep all those corroded vehicles. I have had a few come through here from your area, and they were real badly corroded everywhere.
Dielectric keeps water out, I go through allot of it. Oregon has very wet conditions, but, not as much road salts.
The big hazard in rural Oregon is not the water, it's the six foot deep, six foot wide ditch with no shoulder. If you blink, you will need a new vehicle, as the vehicle will almost always get overturned.
Every few decades Dodge makes a mistake and produces a great vehicle, the older trucks were lacking the "Party Mode" crap, and I really like the 95 dually, it's been bulletproof.
I’m having a hard time getting my head around how an open, caused by a corroded terminal, is causing an intermittent parasitic draw and killing the battery. I can’t help but believe you cured a problem other than the original concern.
Potentially, but throughout his entire diagnostic process no odd drains showed up which would indicate another issue... so it would be so random that he'll have to give it back to the customer and let him report back. But I believe he got it because this system is dependent on the cluster telling modules to go to sleep, so while this wire was making and breaking connection I'm betting the interior lights and other modules on the circuit kept coming on at random times throughout the night and randomly killing the battery. Notice how every time he gave the circuit power the lights inside came on, even with the doors closed and key out? That failing pin would act very similar and would keep resetting that 15min timer.
@@volvo09 That is correct, it is preventing standby mode.
I bet once he got com again, the truck had U codes for the BCM and/or cluster, thus proving the point that the cluster module couldn't go to sleep, and hence, the small draw.
Yep I am happy customer truck been great since Ivan cured no sleep problem
6:15 "Awe Chrysler" ROFLMAO
great job Ivan merry merry happy 20/20 keep them coming we love them
Thank you for the kind words Mark!
Didn't really learn anything (we all know you kick ass)... but you did reaffirm that Rams are just shipping crates for Cummins diesels.
Hahaha straight up
7 min in. Need to Check the i.o.d fuse.... now to watch rest of video ... found it at 14 min. Came back and found bad wire at 28-29 min.
This fuse is for the cluster, radio, headlights etc memory or ability to turn on without the key in ignition and can be pulled up to temporarily stop battery draw. Can’t recommend wd40 on electrical. Use specific electrical cleaner etc.
My son’s 2003 had no lights etc. Pulled the 51 fuse. It looked good but I put another one in anyway and system worked. Will check more in am.
Also If you happen to see an ant in the fuse box they liked to live there and cause havoc. They Destroyed one in another truck .. same for water well contacts. 1 ant outside can mean thousands inside.
Good detailed video.
Recommend starting with fuse box first and note a good fuse will read on both sides even when wire is damaged or connection is buggered up
Some years ago, when Ford Australia introduced the XD Falcon (much the standard 6 cylinder (V8 option) family car) in 1979, plastic components (fuel tank, instrument cluster, dash board) were extensively fitted. For the first time, extensive 'earthing' was required in the wiring loom which fed the lights, radio, instrument cluster, amongst other functional items. The design incorporated an additional 10 Amp earth lug to the negative of the battery, and when you replaced the battery, you happen to forget to connect it, as I'm sure a few 'DIY' owners did, the instrument cluster would 'flicker', giving false readings throughout, as it had a 10 Volt supply from a 12 Volt feed via a resistor in series with a 10 Volt zener diode.. I was called to try and fix it, and not before removing the instrument cluster, and the owner insisting the battery was correctly connected ("You know, it starts, so it must be right.."), I found the 10 Amp earth lug and connected it... Fixed....
I had water in a wiper switch do this once, there is a bit of power in some cars backed to the column switches from things like the hazards. And it would randomly start going. Weirdest thing ever. Come to find out, it was nothing but a leak getting into the switch. I've seen quite a few vehicles with issues like this. Usually moisture/liquid related obviously in the corrosion issues.
Nice video.
Merry Xmas to you and your family.
Thank you Tam. Same to you!
In dash connection problems also occur...bad solder joints and plastic wiring connectors that don't fit tight into circuit board connectors because of differing expansion rates in the plastic components, allows the metal connectors to chatter (make and break contact) International trucks had this problem and caused all sorts of weird results, including having the engine shutdown when the power to the electric fuel solenoid got interrupted. Loose connections and salt water corrosion do crazy things.
Can't wait to see the results with electric vehicles versus road salt ! Any atmospheric venting of those electric motors will end up bad...very bad.
Man Ivan you are one smart cookie. I suppose a bad connector is easier to repair than a broken wire somewhere in a jungle of wires. I have a Tacoma and had wiring damages because of squirrels. If you are not aware...HONDA makes a special type of electrical tape that is an excellent deterrent against rodent damage. I had my local Toyota dealer tape all my underhood wiring with it.
It's amazing that losing connection on a single wire can cause so much havoc. Great work Ivan!
I had a dodge pick em up for 11 years, purchased new. And I learned not to mess with the light switches inside or on the dash. If you did you could never figure out how to get them to go off by themselves or come on when you needed them. NEVER push the lights in to turn them off or they will not work in any setting. This overrides the smart light control system. Weird but true
"party mode"......oh, chrysler!!
Hmmmmm, party mode and pissed off mode, what about OMG mode, LMAFO MODE!!!!
😂🤣😄 , I'm sorry but you can't make this stuff up, you can't you just can't!!!!
“I’ve never done actual surgery “. Why not, Ivan? You’ve fixed everything else!
Because no parts required doesn't apply there 🤓
Thanks for making this video. I think I may have a draw on my 2015 Ram 2500. You have helped teach me the process for tracking it down.
Bro how much patience do you have? amazing one.
Key Off before fix, tach at 500rpm. Once power was restored, tach below zero with Key Off. The BCM on Dodge Trucks/Rams were also dog turds causing various faults including headlights, interior lights, door locks, and power window issues in the Driver’s left footwell, lots of green crusties in those connectors.
"Oh Chysler"
opl500 yup,my new cuss word
My thoughts exactly. At the exact same time he said it. 😂
We learned that a dealership would likely have changed out the engine and the entire wiring harness to fix the problem.
Anonymous98 on my cousins moms Ford F-150 the dealership charged her $5000 for the whole harness and labour because they couldn’t find the short to ground
Great job good catch love the videos keep them coming
As usual when Ivan is on the hunt, something is gonna get bagged. Tenacity is a virtue!!!
Hi Bill! It's quite satisfying to be on the hunt for the green crusties :) Happy Holidays!
The bright and dimming is from the grid heater coming on and off!
milkman 99.100 + you are correct, my Dad has the similar truck but in the - MEGA CAB MODEL, when it is cold it does the cycling on and off until it reaches temperature and then it stops. But I did notice on his truck the battery on the left is being charged more then the one in the right, like 15 volts steady, I need to research on that to see if it is normal or what??
That "weird slider deal" is so the vehicle can be parked on the lot with the hood open and the underhood light stays off and the fuse stays in the vehicle.
Nice catch Ivan the green crusties strike again lol they love you. Happy holidays my friend
Happy Holidays to you too, and thank you for the thoughtful comments :)
only one seriously corroded wire in that large connector. that's life in the rust belt for you. & why I use so much silicone grease on my own vehicles.
иван привет, я думаю можно было воспользоваться кабель трекером, сильно экономит время при поиске обрыва цепи. правда он работает только когда провод полностью висит в воздухе и не звонится на массу или плюс. бывает и так, что окислы во влажной среде начинают создавать напряжение сами по себе, тогда кабель трекер может работать некорректно. есть нюансы в общем, но вещь крайне полезная. всего доброго!
Это слишком быстро, не интересно! :)
Rhythmic dimming of the lights and slight stumble of the eng after a COLD start is the grid heaters cycling. It's normal/good.
What did we learn? That Ivan's the man! That's what!
I'll be the first to admit the Fiat Ram is a good looking truck. Beyond that,,, well let's just say I wouldn't own one. Good fix Ivan!
I see you are using a Fluke amp meter, did your Craftsman one crap out? How good does that Fluke work for current checking pretty good? Isn't it fun figuring out wiring problems when the manufacturer runs two wires of the exact colors in the same harness?
Yeah the Craftsman amp clamp was drifting a lot. Fluke is a lot better in stability. However it's actually not as user-friendly as the Craftsman was...always defaults to "AC", and beeps annoyingly on the "Ohms" scale!
Another great fix Ivan no parts required
A huge amount of patience, perseverance and skill win the day. But NPR ? Seems to me the spritzes of Deoxit and the dab of solder ought to be worth $150. 😁 Just tugging your chain Ivan...well done as usual.
I know you're joking.
Remember, the owner spent 3 weeks trying to solve this issue.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yes...I recall Ivan saying that. Skills my friend...skills.
make sure you have the exact OEM nuts that secure your battery wires to your battery. it has to be the exact one from the factory or they lose connection. my batteries were dying slowly no matter what, and dodge replaced the nut and it fixed the problem.
Arg ! The dreaded green crusties !
Our hero prevails once again.
Great detective work Ivan!
Great video and it helped me fix my problem! What is the program Where you get your wiring diagrams ?
Nice job finding it. Son 04 Durango battery goes dead after sitting for 12 to 24 hours! New alternator and battery. Can't find the draw, your video may have given a few ideas!
When I first seen this, I thought the radio because I noticed it didn't work. And radios can cause parasitic draw if it's having issues internally with power transistors because of the memory input being a power point on modern stereos. And ignition controlling the gate/base on internal MOSFET/Transistors. Same as computers. Third basic component of course would have been the alternator diodes. I see that a lot.
Great find & FIX, NICE, VID.
MR. PHAD!!! 👍 👌 👏
NO PARTS REQUIRED
Great job Ivan, brain cells fully utilized.
Thanks for sharing.
The dome lights might actually be drawing power if left on but they go off.
I have a blown dome light and it drained my battery cause it looked off but was on.
Another great fix Ivan excellent work i love your videos keep em coming! 👏👍
I've had that exact wire break/corrode behind the battery from touching the battery bracket in a 1500. Same symptoms except there was no battery draw I don't think.
"Oh, Chrysler !", hilarious.
6:11 "Oh, Chrysler.." lol....instantly reminded me of the original Death Race movie with David Caradine..."Jesus Chrysler!!!"
Not just a fan of your diagnostic supremacy but that soup you made too!
Excellent repair!
Great job did you fix fob working on doors or did it just work after wire repair I have same problem on Dodge Durango 2006 batteries dies but everything works ok except fob all fuses that have par draw on are all labeled Fcm where do I start
This was just a reminder that if you have problems with chrysler electronics you have a bad connnection somewhere or the TIPM is not working properly. Seeing more and more of these designs here in Italy these days :)
great fix Ivan.good job
Great video, I haven't read all the comments so forgive me if you already mentioned exactly what year is this truck?
Did you watch the first 15 seconds of the video? ;D
Hey man I’m currently going through this issue right now with my 04 1500. I’ve pulled the plugs to the TIPM, no green crusties, the grounds look fine. I’ve done so much I can’t even remember what else there is. If you’re down, could we possibly set up a phone call or even maybe a FaceTime, so you can possibly assist me on this problem? You seem to be the only person on the internet with a detailed enough description of the problem and I’ll be willing to pay for your time.
This business of having no power to the DLC seems to be very common but I've never kept track of the fixes to see if they are always the same.
How many hours did it take to diagnose this? What was the charge to the customer?
excellent video and diagnostics
Ivan Google Truck lite NYK 77 electrical compound. Amazing stuff believe me. Trust me ..snowplow mechanic up here in NYS, Also PLEASE show yourself sealing those tiny holes your piercing tools you put into the harnesses. Clear nail polish works amazing for this and a lot less sloppy than liquid electrical tape. Nice work as usual though. TIPM's suck.....
I've been using a dab of dielectric grease for small pin holes... No mess and waterproof!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Dielectric never solidifies like nail polish. and the NYK works better than that on connections IMHO. Thx
Thanks brudda ! Now we back jammin out on da road 💪🏽🥇🛫
Everyone should do what you do on UA-cam you show how to check everything with issue good job I'm following this guy he's kewl have a good day RAMFAM#1
Ivan, I just have to ask, Did you remember to hook the 2nd battery back up? You did not do it in the video.
We learned that green is only okay at St Paddy's Day Parades!! 😆😆😆
Watched the whole video that’s impressive man